Melissa Meisel, Associate Editor08.01.16
From aquas and azures to anchoring earth tones, exuberant pops of vibrant hues appear throughout the spectrum of color trends, representing this season’s take on graphical elements and geometric shapes across Fashion Week collections and impacting this season’s cosmetic creations. For Fall 2016, designers were inspired by fine art—particularly abstract concepts landscapes and graphic geometrics, according to the color experts at Pantone. Furthermore, Pantone’s Color of the Year 2016 is a duo of Rose Quartz and Serenity, which can easily be incorporated into lip/cheek/eye and eye looks, respectively, for cosmetic products.
“If you look at this season’s entire palette, the idea of comforting blues coming to the top of the list again shows that people are still searching for that reassurance,” said Leatrice Eiseman, executive director of the Pantone Color Institute. “The color blue is fundamentally important to the human eye as a stable icon of the balance in our universe. Even in an uncertain world where cultural, economical and social tensions can cause us anxiety, we remember that the blue skies represent constancy—they have never fallen.”
While Baby Boomers have the most disposable income to spend on makeup, Millennials are overwhelmingly driving color cosmetics trends and shaping the future of the industry, observed Eleanor Dwyer, research associate at Euromonitor, Chicago. Like their parents, millennial American women use color cosmetics to appear more attractive and well groomed. However, many millennials also view color cosmetics as a means of artistic self-expression. They are willing to spend more on color cosmetics as they view makeup as a hobby.
“This has driven demand for an ever expanding array of color cosmetic products with widely varying textures and hues,” Dwyer told Happi. “However, these consumers refuse to sacrifice quality for quantity, educating themselves via online product reviews and beauty blogs. This has driven healthy growth in the masstige segment.”
The total US prestige makeup category rose 12% to $7.0 billion for the 12 months ending May 2016, according to The NPD Group, Inc., Port Washington, NY. Eye makeup sales increased 2% to $2 billion while lip color jumped 12% to $987.2 million.
A Shoppers’ Delight
Consumers seek quality, performance, wear and ease of use, observed Sonia Kashuk, makeup artist and founder of Sonia Kashuk Beauty, a major cosmetic brand sold at outposts like Target.
“Shoppers don’t want to compromise on any aspect and that is what our brand was built upon. The exciting thing is that you can buy great quality products at reasonable price points in both the mass and drugstore arena,” she told Happi. “Additionally, with the growth of social media, shoppers have become extremely savvy, relentlessly searching, comparing, and testing products until they find something they deem worthwhile so you cannot lack in anyway. That’s the beauty of social media, it makes us all step it up because if you are failing on any part, it will not go unnoticed.”
According to Daniela Ciocan, director of marketing for Cosmoprof North America, Las Vegas, NV, most consumers are initially drawn to product packaging. Ultimately though, the color payoff, texture and wear of the product will close the sale. In addition, today’s shoppers are interested in greater product portability and ease of application. Those products that feature unique and effective applicators are also favored.
Many so called “makeup junkies” and Millennials find the latest products through their beauty box subscriptions, added Ciocan. These boxes enable users to try many products that they may otherwise be unfamiliar with, in the comfort of their own home. They also go to stores like Sephora, where they can play to their hearts content to uncover the latest products and beauty trends. Social media too has played a big role in recent years. Leading online influencers have hundreds of thousands and millions of followers, meaning a great number of shoppers depend on these leaders to identify and communicate the latest products and application techniques.
Kara Sharpe, lead merchant in makeup at Birchbox, New York, told Happi that the Birchbox customer is someone who’s less experienced in beauty, but is very curious and knows that color cosmetics can add value to her life and enhance her look. As such, she has different needs and wants than a very advanced beauty customer.
“When it comes to color cosmetics, our customer is looking for products that are intuitive, easy to use, and effective. She wants to be in control of how minimal or daring she wants to be with beauty,” she explained. “Our customers discover products and explore color trends through our personalized boxes, of course, but there’s an additional level of discovery through our social media channels—especially Facebook Live and Snapchat.”
Today, the cosmetic consumer is a savvy, self confident, empowered woman who is inspired by the latest trends in color. She is looking for what is hot and how easy it is to use a product, noted Lindsay M. Ebbin, co-founder/chief creative officer, Bam Brands USA (BeYu/Make Up Factory), Baltimore, MD. He told Happi, “For them, it’s all about convenience of shopping instead of having to go to multiple locations. Cosmetics brands are diversing into various shopping arenas that have grown to fit their lifestyle; an example of this is grocery stores, self-shopping online and pharmacy drugstores. These specific venues of shopping allow the consumer to easily try a diversity of options, and saves them time in their daily schedule.”
Faces Going Places
One of the most buzzworthy celebrity cosmetic launches of the season is CoverGirl’s line with Katy Perry. This summer’s Walmart preorder event for the colorful collection was well-received. The trendsetting Perry is never shy when it comes to experimenting with her looks, and her fans and followers strive to figure out how to recreate them. A true collaboration on everything from shades to names to packaging, the Katy Kat range includes 13 highly-pigmented and moisturizing demi-matte lipsticks in the season’s hottest shades (even black), plus a new mascara.
The Katy Kat Collection was created by Perry to make her style accessible, said the company which revealed that 11 of the 13 Katy Kat Matte Lipsticks were exclusively available on pre-order through Walmart. The first 100 to sign up received a lipstick signed by Perry herself. CoverGirl recently tapped Zendaya for a campaign and launched a beauty app too.
For Fall 2016, Estée Lauder is partnering with style icon and fashion designer Victoria Beckham to create a limited-edition makeup collection, Victoria Beckham Estée Lauder. The collection will launch next month at select retailers around the world, Victoria Beckham stores and on esteelauder.com and victoriabeckham.com.
“We are excited to join forces and bring Victoria’s take on beauty to her many fans around the world,” said Jane Hertzmark Hudis, group president, The Estée Lauder Companies. “Victoria is an entrepreneur in the true spirit of our founder, Estée Lauder, with a real understanding of what women want, and a commitment to making women look and feel their most beautiful. Victoria has a passion for beauty and we are delighted to welcome her into our brand.”
“I am thrilled to be launching this limited edition makeup collection with Estée Lauder,” said Beckham in a press statement. “The whole process has been both inspiring and eye opening—from going back and revisiting the Estée Lauder archives through to working on the product with the Estée team, this feels like the perfect makeup partnership for me and my brand. I had long admired Estée Lauder the woman, and the powerful brand that she created, so I am excited to offer both of our customers this makeup range and play a small part in her vision for women.”
Arriving in August at M∙A∙C Cosmetics are new products inspired by iconic wild-haired dolls of youth; M∙A∙C Good Luck Trolls is a crazy-hued collection as silly as the characters themselves. Products span from lipgloss to pressed powder with fancy packaging.
“The Good Luck Trolls have evoked love and joy since the 1960s. We are so happy we can put the spotlight on them again. M∙A∙C Cosmetics celebrates pop culture and fantasy, and brings these enchanting characters to life, through this eclectic, bright-hued collection,” said James Gager, M∙A∙C’s senior vice president/group creative director.
Consumers can play it nice and charming in Ariana Grande’s shimmering neutral mauve Lipglass, or get fresh and cheeky in matte orchid pink lipstick for M∙A∙C Cosmetics Viva Glam Ariana Grande 2. Products are available in-store and online next month. Every cent of the selling price of M∙A∙C Viva Glam Lipstick and Lipglass is donated to the M∙A∙C AIDS Fund. To date, the M∙A∙C AIDS Fund has raised $425 million!
These launches follows the pigment-heavy Bangin’ Brilliant collection at M∙A∙C. Touted as a “kaleidoscope” of 29 new lipstick shades, 24 new eyeshadows and six new powder blushes, all will be added to the permanent collection in various textures.
Setting the Groundwork
Driven by the influence of Korean beauty as well as strong consumer demand, the facial makeup category is flush with a prolific level of innovation and new product development, noted Dwyer of Euromonitor International. Sales of BB/CC creams have risen dramatically from $7 million in 2011, their first year on the US market, to $220 million in 2015.
Premium brands Lancôme and L’Occitane both launched CC creams in 2015, while Benefit Cosmetics introduced a BB cream-style eyelid primer that purports to guard eyelids from harsh environmental factors.
“These products compete most closely with tinted moisturizers, although their popularity has likely somewhat impeded the growth of foundation/concealer,” said Dwyer. “BB/CC creams’ unique selling point is that they combine skin care benefits with moderate coverage. In response to their popularity, more color cosmetic products are incorporating skin care ingredients, thus enabling the category to cannibalize some of skin care’s share of beauty and personal care sales.”
Even facial cosmetics, which are not explicitly called BB or CC creams, have taken a cue from these hugely popular creams to help customers achieve the dewy, fresh-faced look popularized by Korean beauty. Extremely low-viscosity liquid foundations that promise natural-looking yet full coverage are also entering the marketplace, with many of them incorporating beneficial ingredients. Cushion compact packaging innovations have increased the portability and ease of use of these ultra-watery formulations.
This fall, Bobbi Brown is celebrating 25 years as a brand with a “Be Who You Are” mantra. To kick off the season, Bobbi Brown is rolling out Instant Confidence Stick, a magic eraser for fine lines and wrinkles that instantly blurs imperfections with weightless, light-diffusing powders. The brand describes it as retouching the natural way. Also new is the Sunset Pink Collection, her take on “magic hour,” that time of day when the sun casts a twilight glow on the skin and is an edited curation of sun-kissed shades for eyes, lips and cheeks.
For those who want to instantly achieve a luminous complexion, there’s Laura Geller’s new long-wearing and oil-free Easy Illuminating Sticks. Formulated with light-reflecting optics, these skin-conditioning, moisturizing sticks can be worn on bare skin or over foundation for a radiant, lit-from-within look, according to the company. Apply along the tops of cheekbones, the bridge of the nose, on the cupid’s bow of lips and anywhere else for a kiss of shimmering luminosity. Shades include Ballerina, Ethereal and Gilded Honey and products are sold at Ulta and online.
Meanwhile, new at Target is Sonik Kashuk’s Soft Focus Satin Matte Foundation, which delivers flawless-looking skin with a shine-free, silky-smooth foundation in a matte-but-not-flat finish, according to the company known for its affordable cosmetics and makeup bags. The creamy yet lightweight formula provides medium to full coverage while combatting shine. Ideal for oily and combination skin types, the formulation is infused with blue lotus, daisy flower and mallow extracts to nourish, protect and brighten skin. It is available in six shades: Bisque, Vanilla, Cream, Buff, Bamboo and Camel.
At Sephora, IT Cosmetics is launching an exclusive collection merging skin care and cosmetics. It includes Bye Bye Pores Primer Oil-Free Poreless Skin-Perfecting Serum Primer as a base. Developed with plastic surgeons, this revolutionary, anti-aging, pore-erasing skin perfector instantly blurs the look of pores, fine lines, wrinkles and uneven texture while hydrating and treating skin, contends the company. Infused with powerful skin-loving ingredients and exclusive Bye Bye Pores Optical Blurring Technology, the velvety, weightless formula glides on effortlessly to neutralize and correct, minimize shine and create a smooth barrier for flawless makeup application. A proprietary complex of Moroccan lava clay, colloidal clay, purifying charcoal and papaya fruit extract visibly erases pores and perfects the look of skin, while anti-aging hydrolyzed collagen, hyaluronic acid, peptides and niacin work to boost hydration, reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, and improve the look of skin tone and texture with this novel primer.
Pretty Pouts
Fall 2016 color cosmetics are all about extremes, noted international makeup artist and creative design director of P&G Beauty Pat McGrath. At Fashion Week, she said looks were either “surreal and outrageous or stripped-back and bare.” For example, the new red lip is indefinable in its edginess. It’s both day and night, but always bold and beautiful. New versions of red lips were seen at Victoria Beckham (deep red), Bottega Veneta (deep burgundy), Margiela (liquid glossy) and Dolce & Gabbana (multicolored). And a variety of lipcolor launches this season reflect this bold trend.
Estée Lauder is introducing a curated lip collection: Pure Color Envy Hi-Lustre Light Sculpting Lipstick and Vinyl LipColor. Featuring the high-performance Pure Color Envy Lipstick formula with added technologies, lips are sculpted with light, drenched in intense moisture and charged with high-intensity color, said the company. Pure Color Envy Hi-Lustre Light Sculpting Lipstick features a new Optical Pearl Blend so lips look fuller with a glamorous, luminous finish. Advanced True Vision Technology provides the ultimate color payoff with multi-faceted pigments for intense color. And, exclusive Time Release Encapsulated Moisture Complex with hyaluronic acid helps to boost lips’ ability to attract, capture and seal-in continuous hydration for lips that feel smooth and supple.
In the meantime, Pure Color Envy Vinyl LipColor is the latest bold and bright lip stain now with a reflective, high vinyl shine finish. A Volume Boosting Complex drenches lips in a blend of nine lip enhancing volume boosters and hydrators including a trio of oils to help nourish—jojoba, sunflower and avocado—plus hyaluronic acid for moisturization.
For the fashion savvy woman who wants to rock the latest style in a way that is elegant and classy, Mary Kay Gel Lipstick in Semi-Matte finish has arrived. Available in eight glamorous shades, Mary Kay Gel Lipstick offers endless lip looks, said the company.
“Super bright, semi-matte lips in shades like candy apple red and coral are hot for summer. One of my favorite lines this summer is Mary Kay’s new Gel Lipsticks that have a semi-matte finish. The variety of colors allow you to switch it up for endless on-trend summer lip looks,” said Carl Ray, official Mary Kay makeup artist to First Lady Michelle Obama since 2009. “Consumers are looking for great colors with high pigment that stay on and don’t budge or smudge.”
A gel formulation is also new at Cargo Cosmetics for Fall 2016. These six new weightless, gel textured lip colors glide on like silk with a semi-sheer color. Hues span from Barbados to Venice. Hitting shelves this September and online mid-August, the new lip colors will become a permanent fixture in the Cargo Cosmetics assortment.
Any woman can go “pro” with Lorac Pro Matte Lip Color. According to the company, the Pro tip hugs the curves of lips with precision and control while the weightless, Pro formula easily glides on with a long-lasting, matte finish. Pro Matte Lip Color comes in an array of highly-pigmented, buildable, rich colors from natural nudes to vibrant hues for a modern, matte lip.
“I love the velvety, modern matte finish and the highly-pigmented, rich color you get with these pencils,” said Lorac founder Carol Shaw, Los Angeles. “Compact and easy-to-use, Pro Matte Lip Colors fit perfectly into a makeup bag or an evening clutch – great for the Red Carpet and the girl on-the-go.”
Overall, the dark, bold and seductive lip is hot for Fall 2016. According to Malek Varano, director of marketing and events for Kevyn Aucoin, New York. In fact, Kevyn Aucoin is launching five “hauntingly beautiful” shades this fall that mirror the trends seen at Fashion Week, she added.
Vision Quest
The revised smoky eye was seen at Versace, Anna Sui, Diane Von Furstenberg and Roberto Cavalli, all showcasing a heavy-set eye, noted McGrath of P&G Beauty. “Eyes provided smoky shapes in new tones—not simply black,” she said, adding that brand new to the runway, Givenchy introduced a breakout look with “The New Cat Eye.” Dark eyeshadow was used on both the eyelid and under the eye then the shadow was extended out for an exaggerated “smoky-eye-meets-cat-eye.”
To give one’s look a wake-up call, there’s Avon True Color Wide Awake Mascara. It delivers lasting, uncompromising lift and curl, and all with no clumping or flaking, said the company. Go for a natural look with just a hint, or turn up the volume with a few extra coats—packed with true color pigments, the mascara is sure to be an instant eye-opener.
Made with Avon’s True Color Technology, new Wide Awake Mascara delivers intense color with a single swipe. The formula features quick-setting polymers that lock in the volume, giving you full, luscious lashes all day. The brush is crafted in a unique hourglass shape, which gives lashes an instant upswept curl while lifting them sky-high. A tapered tip helps target hard-to-reach inner lashes, while the twisted bristles help lift and set lashes with no clumps. Shades include black, black/brown and brown and products will be sold in September exclusively through Avon representatives, of course.
In the mass market, leading brand Maybelline will launch two new mascara products for Fall 2016.
The Colossal Spider Effect Mascara—tapping into the “statement lashes” trend, according to the company—features liquid latex formula to create bold sculpted volume and extreme length. A “spider brush” helps group lashes. The brand also will roll out Push Up Angel Falsies mascara in October. This follows the Master Precise Curvy Liquid Liner in July with an hourglass tip for curvy lining in all-day wear.
And don’t forget the eyebrows. The secret behind Charlotte Tilbury’s Legendary Brows is the combination of a new lightweight Sculpt Gel formula and her Miracle Precision Brow Brush that acts like a natural compass that captures even the smallest of baby hairs. The shades are harmonious with Charlotte’s all-in-one Brow Lift Eyebrow Pencil, so you can use both products together for the ultimate “power brow.”
“Brows change the way you look. People literally don’t recognize you without them!,” Tilbury maintained.
She describes her brow brush as the ultimate tool to cheat your way to the best brows.
“My Legendary Brows will give you the fullest, most luscious, natural-looking brows-on-the-go. It’s easy, it’s instant and there’s no skill required! Start your brow legacy today,” she said.
Audacious eyeliner is still prominent in color cosmetics. Urban Decay’s new Razor Sharp Liquid Eyeliner is touted as the ultimate tool for easy, crazy-sharp lines. The precise, fine-tipped brush applicator is a match to a formulation that boasts a ton of color payoff, dries down quickly to prevent smudging, and is water-resistant to last all day. And because Urban Decay can never get enough color, the line includes 20 dimensional shades in a range of finishes, from lacquered creams to metallic shimmers. They include Chaos, a bold, bright blue that really pops off the lid, and Zodiac, a dark, sparkling blue-green shift inspired by a Moondust shade. The brush and packaging have been designed to make perfect lines foolproof—the tube has microfine slashed crosshatching, to create added grip.
The brand is also set to launch the Urban Decay Moondust Palette containing its popular Moondust Eyeshadow. Billed as a never-before-seen innovation in shadow, Moondust contains microfine bits of iridescent sparkle for a dazzling effect like no other. The kit contains eight all-new shades from Element (a bright peach with a shifting effect) and Lightyear (a vivid, saturated green) to Galaxy (the ideal smoky blue-gray). Smashbox is also reaching out to its loyalists with Photo Op Eyeshadow Singles. According to Lori Taylor Davis, Smashbox global pro lead artist, Los Angeles, “We picked our No. 1 favorite Smashbox eyeshadow shades, then packaged them into 10 true-color singles.”
The velvety, super blendable formula glides on smooth, creating highly pigmented, stay-put color that won’t crease, cake, or flake. Available in eight neutral matte shades and two sparkling shimmers, all 10 Photo Op Eye Shadow Singles are hand-picked from Smashbox’s best-selling, studio-created collections.
Harnessing the power of four, L’Oréal Paris Colour Riche Pocket Palettes are Colour Riche Eye Shadow Quads are specially curated to provide sophisticated contrast and dimension in shades from shimmer and matte to light and dark. Each quad offers coordinated shades and shade families for endless possibilities for creating foolproof eye looks.
The richly pigmented colors are featured in buttery matte and opulent shimmery finishes. The soft and silky texture blends smoothly for easy application, according to the company.
Imminent Trends
First and foremost, seasonal color will always have an impact, and for Fall 2017 vibrant color stays prominent.
According to Kashuk, “As far as product categories go, this concept of these hybrid ‘cosmeceutical’ products in which skin care and color cosmetics crossover will be a big sales driver. Also I think as an offset of that you have a lot of brands drilling down more to focus on skin and that will definitely continue.”
Ciocan of Cosmoprof agrees the future will most likely include greater inclusion of multipurpose products that double as skin care treatments.
“Colors have become edgier too and I expect the trend toward high-impact/high-definition (HD) colors will evolve,” she told Happi. “With lip being a focus this season, I think future attention will be placed more on the eye makeup.”
The industry will continue to see evolution and innovation in the overlap between skin care and makeup, noted Sharpe of Birchbox. She added, “Customers are looking for products that help them achieve a glowing radiant complexion and beauty brands are continuing to deliver newness here.”
Innovation always—these two words are the future of color cosmetics, according to Varano of Kevyn Aucoin. The industry insider told Happi, “It’s all about leading the market with the newest product with the most innovative packaging, formula and/or color payoff.”
Ajinomoto North America Inc.
Raleigh, NC
Tel: 877-507-9303
Email: namjoshid@ajiusa.com/ ahadl@ajiusa.com
Website: www.ajiaminobeauty.com
Amihope OL
INCI: Capryloyl lysine
Suggested Use Levels: 0.5-15.0 wt.%
Applications: Color cosmetics (foundation, lipstick, makeup, pressed and loose powder, etc.), powder surface preparation agents, skin care and hair care products.
Comments: Amihope OL is an amino acid derived, natural, highly lubricious functional powder, which is insoluble in both oil and water. It is useful in surface modification (hydrophilic to hydrophobic, improvement of fluidity of oil / powder).
Amihope LL
INCI: Lauroyl lysine
Suggested Use Levels: 0.5 – 15.0 wt.%
Applications: Color cosmetics (foundation, lipstick, makeup, pressed and loose powder, etc.), powder surface preparation agents, skin care and hair care products.
Comments: Amihope LL is an amino acid derived, natural (Ecocert certified natural), highly lubricious functional powder, which is insoluble in both oil and water. It has a very soft, smooth and silky feel. It can be adsorbed to the surface of inorganic powders to improve physicochemical properties. It can be used as a pigment dispersing agent or a texture improver in makeup, skin care and hair care products.
Eldew PS-203R
INCI: Phytosteryl/octyldodecyl lauroyl glutamate
Suggested Use Levels: 0.5 – 10.0 wt.%
Applications: Skin care (emolliency and stability properties in emulsions and anhydrous systems, surfactant systems), hair care (shampoos, conditioners, treatment products), makeup products (excellent pigment dispersiblity, emolliency, moisturization)
Comments: Eldew PS-203R is an amino acid derived emollient. It has ceramide-like property. It helps in skin and hair moisturization. It has a good water holding capacity. It also has good pigment dispersibility and excellent emulsion stabilization properties. It helps in keeping the skin in good condition, as it has functions similar to the intercellular lipids. It also helps repair hair damage caused by hair waving and hair dyeing/coloring.
Gelatinization Agent EB-21 and Gelatinization Agent GP-1
INCI: Dibutyl ethylhexanoyl glutamide (EB-21), dibutyl lauroyl glutamide (GP-1)
Suggested Use Levels: 0.2 – 5.0 wt.%
Applications: Skin care, hair care, sun care, makeup (lipgloss, lipstick, eyeshadow, mascara)
Comments: EB-21 and GP-1 are amino acid derived oil gelling agents. They provide hardness, strength, stability to the product even at very high temperatures. These can form highly clear oil gels, as well as hard oil gel sticks. The sensory feel of the oil gels and oil sticks is the same as the oils. These can be used in anhydrous products as well as emulsions. These ingredients have diverse applications in makeup products.
Ashland
Bridgewater, NJ
Tel: (800) 505-8984
E-mail: personalcare@ashland.com
Website: www.Ashland.com/personalcare
Blumilight Biofunctional
INCI: Water (and) butylene glycol (and) theobroma cacao (cocoa) seed extract
Suggested Use Level: 1% (clinically tested at 1%)
Applications: Foundations
Comments: Blumilight is a Theobroma extract from a sustainable cocoa from Peru. It is rich in peptides, saccharides and polyphenols and has demonstrated a decrease in Reactive Oxygen Species during artificial blue light stress (in vitro), a visible improvement of elastin fibers network (ex vivo), an improvement of skin elasticity (in vivo) and a visible improvement of skin wrinkles (in vivo). A perfect addition to a 'selfie' foundation designed to blur our imperfections and protect skin from artificial blue light stress, such as cell phones and laptop computers.
Centerchem, Inc.
Norwalk, CT
Tel: (203) 822-9800
Website: www.centerchem.com
Lingostem
INCI: Water, glycerin, vaccinium vitis-idaea fruit extract, citric acid, xanthan gum
Suggested Use Levels: 1.0 – 2.0%
Applications: Anti-aging skin products, sun protection products
Comments: Lingostem is a natural cosmetic active ingredient based on plant stem cells obtained from lingonberry (vaccinium vitis-idaea). It is part of the Provital Stem Cells Collection product line, in which a controlled cell culture is developed from stem cells to achieve the synthesis of those natural compounds offering the required cosmetic properties. Lingostem is lingonberry stem cells designed to prevent and reverse photoaging, mimicking one of nature’s solutions to fight damaging effects of solar radiation in plants. It is able to repair and protect skin against the oxidative damage caused by solar radiations such as UV and IR-A, improving skin's antioxidant activity, reducing wrinkles and spots, and improving moisturization, firmness and elasticity. The result is skin with a young and healthy appearance, which is more resilient against sun damage.
Micro Powders, Inc.
Tarrytown, NY
Tel: 914-793-4058
Email: mpi@micropowders.com
Website: www.MPIpersonalcare.com
Naturesorb 1000
INCI: Copernicia cerifera (carnauba) wax, calcium silicate
Suggested Use Levels: Up to 10%
Applications: All color cosmetics and skin care
Comments: This is 100% natural fine powder with smooth and luxurious feel. Provides significant oil absorption & matting property to the color cosmetics powders, emulsions & anhydrous formulations. It also provides matting property and reduces oily feel with creams and lotions formulations.
GelMatte 511
INCI: Polypropylene, isohexadecane, polyamide-8, polyhydroxystearic acid
Suggested Use Levels: 5.0% - 10.0%
Applications: Color cosmetics and skin care: anhydrous formulations, O/W type emulsions & SPF formulations.
Comments: Enhances the overall quality similar to the upscale brand formulation. Improves wear, stability, matting property and overall aesthetics. Helps to reduce the shine and provides excellent matting effect to the cosmetic formulation.
GelSlip 519
INCI: PTFE, isohexadecane, polyamide-8, polyhydroxystearic acid
Suggested Use Levels: 5.0-10.0%
Applications: Color cosmetics and skin care: O/W type emulsions as well as anhydrous formulations. Includes SPF products.
Comments: Enhances the overall quality similar to the upscale brand formulation. Improves wear, stability, slip and overall aesthetics. Helps to reduce the drag and provides excellent luxurious non-oily slip similar to the upscale brand formulation.
Sensient Cosmetic Technologies
South Plainfield, NJ
Phone: 980-757-4500
Email: cosmeticsales@sensient.com
Website: www.sensient-cosmetics.com/
Covasterol
INCI: Glyceryl isostearate (and) isostearyl alcohol (and) brassica
campestris (rapeseed) sterols (and) butyrospermum parkii (shea) butter (and) euphorbia cerifera (candellila) wax
Suggested Use Levels: 5%
Applications: Problem skin, pore refining, sebum reduction, complexion
perfector
Comments: Covasterol is a unique blend of plant phytosterols, emollients and plant waxes. Clinical tests on a large panel of women demonstrated Covasterol’s unique ability to reduce sebum production and pore size in only seven days. Comparison tests show that Covasterol can be used as a natural alternative to traditional cholesterol while providing a wide array of additional
benefits from moisturization, hydration, comfort and refined skin texture and smoothness.
Sensibiopro C
INCI: Aqua (and) glycerin (and) hydrolyzed yeast protein (and) xanthan gum (and) gluconolactone (and) sodium benzoate (and) PPG-26 buteth-26 (and) PEG 40 hydrogenated castor oil
Suggested Use Levels: 1-5%
Applications: Hair coloration protection, hair conditioner
Comments: Sensibiopro C is a new combination of hydrolyzed proteins with natural affinity for hair fibers. It provides easy combing, color retention, conditioning effect, and it preserves and protects the intensity of the color for semi-permanent hair coloration.
Arianor Flash
INCI: Basic blue 99 and basic brown 16 and acid violet 43 and basic red 76 and basic yellow 57 and basic brown 17 and polyquaternium 37 and hydrolyzed yeast protein
Suggested Use Levels: 2 to 4%
Applications: Semi permanent or temporary hair coloration
Comments: The Arianor Flash range has been designed to simplify formulators' work. Arianor Flash is a synergistic blend of cationic dyes and biotechnological complexes that promotes intense and long lasting hair coloration. Simply add some water, and you can immediately use this product for hair coloration. Eight shades available.
Arianor Magenta
INCI: Basic violet 2
Suggested Use Levels: 0.5-1%
Applications: Semi-permanent and oxidative hair coloration.
Comments: A new basic dye for natural, chromatic and pastel shades adapted to non-oxidative and oxidative applications on hair.
Covalumine Triple Black AS
INCI: Alumina (and) triethoxycaprylylsilane (and) CI 77499
Suggested Use Levels: 0.01-100%
Applications: Face makeup, eye makeup, lips makeup, tinted skin care
Comments: Covalumine Triple Black AS allows the creation of intense black eyeshadows. The Covalumine AS technology is a new generation of composites (mineral platelets) coated with pigments and AS surface treatment for natural skin glow and soft application for makeup applications.
Shin-Etsu Silicones of America
Akron, OH
Tel: (330) 630-9860
Email: cosmetics@shinetsusilicones.com
Website:www.shinetsusilicones.com
KSG-710
INCI: Dimethicone (and) dimethicone/polyglycerin-3 crosspolymer
Suggested Use Levels: 3-5%
Applications: Makeup, foundations, skin creams
Comments: KSG-710 is a polyglyerin modified, crosslinked silicone polymer swollen in silicone fluid which functions as a W/Si emulsifier. This PEG-free material can stabilize high internal phase emulsions with a large particle size, and the glycerin-modified crosslinker provides good moisturizing effect. These unique properties allow for the development of light, fresh feeling textures with a soft, rich skin feel, such as skin care, anti-aging with actives and highly hydrating products.
KF-6104
INCI: Polyglyceryl-3 polydimethylsiloxyethyl dimethicone
Suggested Use Levels: 0.1-2%
Applications: Makeup, foundations, skin creams
Comments: KF-6104 is a colorless to light yellow transparent emulsifying silicone fluid. It is a branched, polyglycerin-modified silicone that creates W/Si emulsions, is PEG free, and has good compatibility with silicones. Emulsions made with KF-6104 are easy to spread on the skin and feel very soft and rich.
X-22-6695B
INCI:Simmondsia chinensis (jojoba) seed oil (and) lauryl dimethicone/polyglycerin-3 crosspolymer
Suggested Use Levels: 3-5%
Applications: Makeup, foundations, skin creams
Comments: X-22-6695B is a silicone crosspolymer gel swelled in jojoba fluid. The crosspolymer part is glycerin modified which provides good moisturizing effect. It can be used not only as thickening agent for organic and natural ingredients, but also works as an emulsifier for making W/O emulsions.
Tri-K Industries
Denville, NJ
Tel: (973) 298-8850
Email: info@tri-k.com
Website: www.tri-k.com
Fision WrinkleFix
INCI: Water, hydrolyzed rice protein, hydrolyzed pea protein, glycine, proline, hydrolyzed sodium hyaluronate
Suggested Use Levels: 1-3%
Applications: Active color cosmetics
Comments: Introducing Fision WrinkleFix, a superior multi-active complex to target deep wrinkles and age spots. Through in vivo tests, this product was shown to minimize the appearance of wrinkles, improve cell vitality and stimulate hyaluronic acid production. Revive your youth - perfect, fortify and renew your skin for a timeless complexion.
Fision Instant Lift
INCI: Water, hydrolyzed soy protein, acacia senegal gum, xanthan gum
Suggested Use Levels: 3-5%
Applications: Emulsions, face & eye lifting make-up primers, BB/CC creams
Comments: A natural, non-GMO, water soluble and easy to use solution creates a lightweight film that tightens for immediate skin firming to minimize the appearance of wrinkles and fine lines. Consumer evaluations confirm that after only one application, Fision Instant Lift leaves skin firmer, younger looking and more radiant than both the placebo and baseline. Whether looking to create impeccably smooth skin for a photo-shopped appearance or use as a #NoMakeupMakeup look, Fision Instant Lift creates instantly beautiful and flawless looking skin.
PhytoVie Defense
INCI: Brassica campestris/aleurites fordi oil copolymer
Suggested Use Levels: 1-3% Applications: Face & body primers, moisturizing creams, BB/CC products, mascaras, lip sticks Comments (please keep to 1-3 sentences): A biodegradable, botanical based polymer made from tung (China wood) and rapeseed oils, PhytoVie Defense forms a flexible and uniform film on the skin for even coverage that has the power to stay on skin longer, delivering superior protection from damage caused by aging pollutants and environmental aggressors. In color cosmetics, PhytoVie Defense adds volume and thickness to eye lashes when used in mascaras, and reduces tackiness while adding gloss to lip formulations.
Vantage Specialty Ingredients, Inc.
Warren, NJ
Phone: (973) 345-8600
Email: nicole.finn@vantagegrp.com
Website: www.vantagegrp.com
Desert Whale Jojoba Milk
INCI: Water (and) simmondsia chinensis (jojoba) seed oil (and) propanediol (and) phospholipids (and) glycerin (and) sodium hyaluronate (and) xanthan gum
Suggested Use Levels: 2-100%
Applications: Milks, boosters for finished formulations, spray-able lotions, cream-gels, serums, cleansers, shampoos and cold process formulas.
Comments: Desert Whale Jojoba Milk is an innovative, white, low viscosity liquid with a lightweight elegant feel. It is made using ultrasonic cavitation. Thanks to this process and choice of lipids a unique, stable oil-in-water emulsion structure is created with tiny jojoba oil droplets. Desert Whale Jojoba Milk has a thin, milky consistency and conditioning benefits for skin and hair.
CytoRegulin
INCI: Glycerin (and) water (and) heptapeptide-32 (proposed)
Suggested Use Levels: 2-3%
Applications: Serums, spot treatments, anti-aging creams, and post-aesthetic procedure treatment.
Comments: CytoRegulin is a uniquely designed heptapeptide that can absorb into the skin without the help of additional delivery vehicles that are often required when formulating with peptides. CytoRegulin mimics the action of a key growth factor called Transforming Growth Factor β-1 (TGFβ-1), resulting in the activation of multiple pathways critical to healing and repair of aging skin.
Liponate BDP
INCI: Bis-diglyceryl polyacyladipate-2
Suggested Use Levels: 2-30%; Lip Products, 2-5%; Skin Care and Hair Care
Applications: Lipstick and lipgloss, moisturizing creams and lotions, hairstyling and pomades
Comments: This smooth ester, originally developed as a lanolin substitute, adds a glossy finish and increases color payoff in color cosmetics. In skin case, it provides a substantive film to protect and moisturize the skin. For use in hair care, Liponate BDP adds both structure and glide to hair styling products such as pomades and hair waxes.
“If you look at this season’s entire palette, the idea of comforting blues coming to the top of the list again shows that people are still searching for that reassurance,” said Leatrice Eiseman, executive director of the Pantone Color Institute. “The color blue is fundamentally important to the human eye as a stable icon of the balance in our universe. Even in an uncertain world where cultural, economical and social tensions can cause us anxiety, we remember that the blue skies represent constancy—they have never fallen.”
While Baby Boomers have the most disposable income to spend on makeup, Millennials are overwhelmingly driving color cosmetics trends and shaping the future of the industry, observed Eleanor Dwyer, research associate at Euromonitor, Chicago. Like their parents, millennial American women use color cosmetics to appear more attractive and well groomed. However, many millennials also view color cosmetics as a means of artistic self-expression. They are willing to spend more on color cosmetics as they view makeup as a hobby.
“This has driven demand for an ever expanding array of color cosmetic products with widely varying textures and hues,” Dwyer told Happi. “However, these consumers refuse to sacrifice quality for quantity, educating themselves via online product reviews and beauty blogs. This has driven healthy growth in the masstige segment.”
The total US prestige makeup category rose 12% to $7.0 billion for the 12 months ending May 2016, according to The NPD Group, Inc., Port Washington, NY. Eye makeup sales increased 2% to $2 billion while lip color jumped 12% to $987.2 million.
A Shoppers’ Delight
Consumers seek quality, performance, wear and ease of use, observed Sonia Kashuk, makeup artist and founder of Sonia Kashuk Beauty, a major cosmetic brand sold at outposts like Target.
“Shoppers don’t want to compromise on any aspect and that is what our brand was built upon. The exciting thing is that you can buy great quality products at reasonable price points in both the mass and drugstore arena,” she told Happi. “Additionally, with the growth of social media, shoppers have become extremely savvy, relentlessly searching, comparing, and testing products until they find something they deem worthwhile so you cannot lack in anyway. That’s the beauty of social media, it makes us all step it up because if you are failing on any part, it will not go unnoticed.”
According to Daniela Ciocan, director of marketing for Cosmoprof North America, Las Vegas, NV, most consumers are initially drawn to product packaging. Ultimately though, the color payoff, texture and wear of the product will close the sale. In addition, today’s shoppers are interested in greater product portability and ease of application. Those products that feature unique and effective applicators are also favored.
Many so called “makeup junkies” and Millennials find the latest products through their beauty box subscriptions, added Ciocan. These boxes enable users to try many products that they may otherwise be unfamiliar with, in the comfort of their own home. They also go to stores like Sephora, where they can play to their hearts content to uncover the latest products and beauty trends. Social media too has played a big role in recent years. Leading online influencers have hundreds of thousands and millions of followers, meaning a great number of shoppers depend on these leaders to identify and communicate the latest products and application techniques.
Kara Sharpe, lead merchant in makeup at Birchbox, New York, told Happi that the Birchbox customer is someone who’s less experienced in beauty, but is very curious and knows that color cosmetics can add value to her life and enhance her look. As such, she has different needs and wants than a very advanced beauty customer.
“When it comes to color cosmetics, our customer is looking for products that are intuitive, easy to use, and effective. She wants to be in control of how minimal or daring she wants to be with beauty,” she explained. “Our customers discover products and explore color trends through our personalized boxes, of course, but there’s an additional level of discovery through our social media channels—especially Facebook Live and Snapchat.”
Today, the cosmetic consumer is a savvy, self confident, empowered woman who is inspired by the latest trends in color. She is looking for what is hot and how easy it is to use a product, noted Lindsay M. Ebbin, co-founder/chief creative officer, Bam Brands USA (BeYu/Make Up Factory), Baltimore, MD. He told Happi, “For them, it’s all about convenience of shopping instead of having to go to multiple locations. Cosmetics brands are diversing into various shopping arenas that have grown to fit their lifestyle; an example of this is grocery stores, self-shopping online and pharmacy drugstores. These specific venues of shopping allow the consumer to easily try a diversity of options, and saves them time in their daily schedule.”
Faces Going Places
One of the most buzzworthy celebrity cosmetic launches of the season is CoverGirl’s line with Katy Perry. This summer’s Walmart preorder event for the colorful collection was well-received. The trendsetting Perry is never shy when it comes to experimenting with her looks, and her fans and followers strive to figure out how to recreate them. A true collaboration on everything from shades to names to packaging, the Katy Kat range includes 13 highly-pigmented and moisturizing demi-matte lipsticks in the season’s hottest shades (even black), plus a new mascara.
The Katy Kat Collection was created by Perry to make her style accessible, said the company which revealed that 11 of the 13 Katy Kat Matte Lipsticks were exclusively available on pre-order through Walmart. The first 100 to sign up received a lipstick signed by Perry herself. CoverGirl recently tapped Zendaya for a campaign and launched a beauty app too.
For Fall 2016, Estée Lauder is partnering with style icon and fashion designer Victoria Beckham to create a limited-edition makeup collection, Victoria Beckham Estée Lauder. The collection will launch next month at select retailers around the world, Victoria Beckham stores and on esteelauder.com and victoriabeckham.com.
“We are excited to join forces and bring Victoria’s take on beauty to her many fans around the world,” said Jane Hertzmark Hudis, group president, The Estée Lauder Companies. “Victoria is an entrepreneur in the true spirit of our founder, Estée Lauder, with a real understanding of what women want, and a commitment to making women look and feel their most beautiful. Victoria has a passion for beauty and we are delighted to welcome her into our brand.”
“I am thrilled to be launching this limited edition makeup collection with Estée Lauder,” said Beckham in a press statement. “The whole process has been both inspiring and eye opening—from going back and revisiting the Estée Lauder archives through to working on the product with the Estée team, this feels like the perfect makeup partnership for me and my brand. I had long admired Estée Lauder the woman, and the powerful brand that she created, so I am excited to offer both of our customers this makeup range and play a small part in her vision for women.”
Arriving in August at M∙A∙C Cosmetics are new products inspired by iconic wild-haired dolls of youth; M∙A∙C Good Luck Trolls is a crazy-hued collection as silly as the characters themselves. Products span from lipgloss to pressed powder with fancy packaging.
“The Good Luck Trolls have evoked love and joy since the 1960s. We are so happy we can put the spotlight on them again. M∙A∙C Cosmetics celebrates pop culture and fantasy, and brings these enchanting characters to life, through this eclectic, bright-hued collection,” said James Gager, M∙A∙C’s senior vice president/group creative director.
Consumers can play it nice and charming in Ariana Grande’s shimmering neutral mauve Lipglass, or get fresh and cheeky in matte orchid pink lipstick for M∙A∙C Cosmetics Viva Glam Ariana Grande 2. Products are available in-store and online next month. Every cent of the selling price of M∙A∙C Viva Glam Lipstick and Lipglass is donated to the M∙A∙C AIDS Fund. To date, the M∙A∙C AIDS Fund has raised $425 million!
These launches follows the pigment-heavy Bangin’ Brilliant collection at M∙A∙C. Touted as a “kaleidoscope” of 29 new lipstick shades, 24 new eyeshadows and six new powder blushes, all will be added to the permanent collection in various textures.
Setting the Groundwork
Driven by the influence of Korean beauty as well as strong consumer demand, the facial makeup category is flush with a prolific level of innovation and new product development, noted Dwyer of Euromonitor International. Sales of BB/CC creams have risen dramatically from $7 million in 2011, their first year on the US market, to $220 million in 2015.
Premium brands Lancôme and L’Occitane both launched CC creams in 2015, while Benefit Cosmetics introduced a BB cream-style eyelid primer that purports to guard eyelids from harsh environmental factors.
“These products compete most closely with tinted moisturizers, although their popularity has likely somewhat impeded the growth of foundation/concealer,” said Dwyer. “BB/CC creams’ unique selling point is that they combine skin care benefits with moderate coverage. In response to their popularity, more color cosmetic products are incorporating skin care ingredients, thus enabling the category to cannibalize some of skin care’s share of beauty and personal care sales.”
Even facial cosmetics, which are not explicitly called BB or CC creams, have taken a cue from these hugely popular creams to help customers achieve the dewy, fresh-faced look popularized by Korean beauty. Extremely low-viscosity liquid foundations that promise natural-looking yet full coverage are also entering the marketplace, with many of them incorporating beneficial ingredients. Cushion compact packaging innovations have increased the portability and ease of use of these ultra-watery formulations.
This fall, Bobbi Brown is celebrating 25 years as a brand with a “Be Who You Are” mantra. To kick off the season, Bobbi Brown is rolling out Instant Confidence Stick, a magic eraser for fine lines and wrinkles that instantly blurs imperfections with weightless, light-diffusing powders. The brand describes it as retouching the natural way. Also new is the Sunset Pink Collection, her take on “magic hour,” that time of day when the sun casts a twilight glow on the skin and is an edited curation of sun-kissed shades for eyes, lips and cheeks.
For those who want to instantly achieve a luminous complexion, there’s Laura Geller’s new long-wearing and oil-free Easy Illuminating Sticks. Formulated with light-reflecting optics, these skin-conditioning, moisturizing sticks can be worn on bare skin or over foundation for a radiant, lit-from-within look, according to the company. Apply along the tops of cheekbones, the bridge of the nose, on the cupid’s bow of lips and anywhere else for a kiss of shimmering luminosity. Shades include Ballerina, Ethereal and Gilded Honey and products are sold at Ulta and online.
Meanwhile, new at Target is Sonik Kashuk’s Soft Focus Satin Matte Foundation, which delivers flawless-looking skin with a shine-free, silky-smooth foundation in a matte-but-not-flat finish, according to the company known for its affordable cosmetics and makeup bags. The creamy yet lightweight formula provides medium to full coverage while combatting shine. Ideal for oily and combination skin types, the formulation is infused with blue lotus, daisy flower and mallow extracts to nourish, protect and brighten skin. It is available in six shades: Bisque, Vanilla, Cream, Buff, Bamboo and Camel.
At Sephora, IT Cosmetics is launching an exclusive collection merging skin care and cosmetics. It includes Bye Bye Pores Primer Oil-Free Poreless Skin-Perfecting Serum Primer as a base. Developed with plastic surgeons, this revolutionary, anti-aging, pore-erasing skin perfector instantly blurs the look of pores, fine lines, wrinkles and uneven texture while hydrating and treating skin, contends the company. Infused with powerful skin-loving ingredients and exclusive Bye Bye Pores Optical Blurring Technology, the velvety, weightless formula glides on effortlessly to neutralize and correct, minimize shine and create a smooth barrier for flawless makeup application. A proprietary complex of Moroccan lava clay, colloidal clay, purifying charcoal and papaya fruit extract visibly erases pores and perfects the look of skin, while anti-aging hydrolyzed collagen, hyaluronic acid, peptides and niacin work to boost hydration, reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, and improve the look of skin tone and texture with this novel primer.
Pretty Pouts
Fall 2016 color cosmetics are all about extremes, noted international makeup artist and creative design director of P&G Beauty Pat McGrath. At Fashion Week, she said looks were either “surreal and outrageous or stripped-back and bare.” For example, the new red lip is indefinable in its edginess. It’s both day and night, but always bold and beautiful. New versions of red lips were seen at Victoria Beckham (deep red), Bottega Veneta (deep burgundy), Margiela (liquid glossy) and Dolce & Gabbana (multicolored). And a variety of lipcolor launches this season reflect this bold trend.
Estée Lauder is introducing a curated lip collection: Pure Color Envy Hi-Lustre Light Sculpting Lipstick and Vinyl LipColor. Featuring the high-performance Pure Color Envy Lipstick formula with added technologies, lips are sculpted with light, drenched in intense moisture and charged with high-intensity color, said the company. Pure Color Envy Hi-Lustre Light Sculpting Lipstick features a new Optical Pearl Blend so lips look fuller with a glamorous, luminous finish. Advanced True Vision Technology provides the ultimate color payoff with multi-faceted pigments for intense color. And, exclusive Time Release Encapsulated Moisture Complex with hyaluronic acid helps to boost lips’ ability to attract, capture and seal-in continuous hydration for lips that feel smooth and supple.
In the meantime, Pure Color Envy Vinyl LipColor is the latest bold and bright lip stain now with a reflective, high vinyl shine finish. A Volume Boosting Complex drenches lips in a blend of nine lip enhancing volume boosters and hydrators including a trio of oils to help nourish—jojoba, sunflower and avocado—plus hyaluronic acid for moisturization.
For the fashion savvy woman who wants to rock the latest style in a way that is elegant and classy, Mary Kay Gel Lipstick in Semi-Matte finish has arrived. Available in eight glamorous shades, Mary Kay Gel Lipstick offers endless lip looks, said the company.
“Super bright, semi-matte lips in shades like candy apple red and coral are hot for summer. One of my favorite lines this summer is Mary Kay’s new Gel Lipsticks that have a semi-matte finish. The variety of colors allow you to switch it up for endless on-trend summer lip looks,” said Carl Ray, official Mary Kay makeup artist to First Lady Michelle Obama since 2009. “Consumers are looking for great colors with high pigment that stay on and don’t budge or smudge.”
A gel formulation is also new at Cargo Cosmetics for Fall 2016. These six new weightless, gel textured lip colors glide on like silk with a semi-sheer color. Hues span from Barbados to Venice. Hitting shelves this September and online mid-August, the new lip colors will become a permanent fixture in the Cargo Cosmetics assortment.
Any woman can go “pro” with Lorac Pro Matte Lip Color. According to the company, the Pro tip hugs the curves of lips with precision and control while the weightless, Pro formula easily glides on with a long-lasting, matte finish. Pro Matte Lip Color comes in an array of highly-pigmented, buildable, rich colors from natural nudes to vibrant hues for a modern, matte lip.
“I love the velvety, modern matte finish and the highly-pigmented, rich color you get with these pencils,” said Lorac founder Carol Shaw, Los Angeles. “Compact and easy-to-use, Pro Matte Lip Colors fit perfectly into a makeup bag or an evening clutch – great for the Red Carpet and the girl on-the-go.”
Overall, the dark, bold and seductive lip is hot for Fall 2016. According to Malek Varano, director of marketing and events for Kevyn Aucoin, New York. In fact, Kevyn Aucoin is launching five “hauntingly beautiful” shades this fall that mirror the trends seen at Fashion Week, she added.
Vision Quest
The revised smoky eye was seen at Versace, Anna Sui, Diane Von Furstenberg and Roberto Cavalli, all showcasing a heavy-set eye, noted McGrath of P&G Beauty. “Eyes provided smoky shapes in new tones—not simply black,” she said, adding that brand new to the runway, Givenchy introduced a breakout look with “The New Cat Eye.” Dark eyeshadow was used on both the eyelid and under the eye then the shadow was extended out for an exaggerated “smoky-eye-meets-cat-eye.”
To give one’s look a wake-up call, there’s Avon True Color Wide Awake Mascara. It delivers lasting, uncompromising lift and curl, and all with no clumping or flaking, said the company. Go for a natural look with just a hint, or turn up the volume with a few extra coats—packed with true color pigments, the mascara is sure to be an instant eye-opener.
Made with Avon’s True Color Technology, new Wide Awake Mascara delivers intense color with a single swipe. The formula features quick-setting polymers that lock in the volume, giving you full, luscious lashes all day. The brush is crafted in a unique hourglass shape, which gives lashes an instant upswept curl while lifting them sky-high. A tapered tip helps target hard-to-reach inner lashes, while the twisted bristles help lift and set lashes with no clumps. Shades include black, black/brown and brown and products will be sold in September exclusively through Avon representatives, of course.
In the mass market, leading brand Maybelline will launch two new mascara products for Fall 2016.
The Colossal Spider Effect Mascara—tapping into the “statement lashes” trend, according to the company—features liquid latex formula to create bold sculpted volume and extreme length. A “spider brush” helps group lashes. The brand also will roll out Push Up Angel Falsies mascara in October. This follows the Master Precise Curvy Liquid Liner in July with an hourglass tip for curvy lining in all-day wear.
And don’t forget the eyebrows. The secret behind Charlotte Tilbury’s Legendary Brows is the combination of a new lightweight Sculpt Gel formula and her Miracle Precision Brow Brush that acts like a natural compass that captures even the smallest of baby hairs. The shades are harmonious with Charlotte’s all-in-one Brow Lift Eyebrow Pencil, so you can use both products together for the ultimate “power brow.”
“Brows change the way you look. People literally don’t recognize you without them!,” Tilbury maintained.
She describes her brow brush as the ultimate tool to cheat your way to the best brows.
“My Legendary Brows will give you the fullest, most luscious, natural-looking brows-on-the-go. It’s easy, it’s instant and there’s no skill required! Start your brow legacy today,” she said.
Audacious eyeliner is still prominent in color cosmetics. Urban Decay’s new Razor Sharp Liquid Eyeliner is touted as the ultimate tool for easy, crazy-sharp lines. The precise, fine-tipped brush applicator is a match to a formulation that boasts a ton of color payoff, dries down quickly to prevent smudging, and is water-resistant to last all day. And because Urban Decay can never get enough color, the line includes 20 dimensional shades in a range of finishes, from lacquered creams to metallic shimmers. They include Chaos, a bold, bright blue that really pops off the lid, and Zodiac, a dark, sparkling blue-green shift inspired by a Moondust shade. The brush and packaging have been designed to make perfect lines foolproof—the tube has microfine slashed crosshatching, to create added grip.
The brand is also set to launch the Urban Decay Moondust Palette containing its popular Moondust Eyeshadow. Billed as a never-before-seen innovation in shadow, Moondust contains microfine bits of iridescent sparkle for a dazzling effect like no other. The kit contains eight all-new shades from Element (a bright peach with a shifting effect) and Lightyear (a vivid, saturated green) to Galaxy (the ideal smoky blue-gray). Smashbox is also reaching out to its loyalists with Photo Op Eyeshadow Singles. According to Lori Taylor Davis, Smashbox global pro lead artist, Los Angeles, “We picked our No. 1 favorite Smashbox eyeshadow shades, then packaged them into 10 true-color singles.”
The velvety, super blendable formula glides on smooth, creating highly pigmented, stay-put color that won’t crease, cake, or flake. Available in eight neutral matte shades and two sparkling shimmers, all 10 Photo Op Eye Shadow Singles are hand-picked from Smashbox’s best-selling, studio-created collections.
Harnessing the power of four, L’Oréal Paris Colour Riche Pocket Palettes are Colour Riche Eye Shadow Quads are specially curated to provide sophisticated contrast and dimension in shades from shimmer and matte to light and dark. Each quad offers coordinated shades and shade families for endless possibilities for creating foolproof eye looks.
The richly pigmented colors are featured in buttery matte and opulent shimmery finishes. The soft and silky texture blends smoothly for easy application, according to the company.
Imminent Trends
First and foremost, seasonal color will always have an impact, and for Fall 2017 vibrant color stays prominent.
According to Kashuk, “As far as product categories go, this concept of these hybrid ‘cosmeceutical’ products in which skin care and color cosmetics crossover will be a big sales driver. Also I think as an offset of that you have a lot of brands drilling down more to focus on skin and that will definitely continue.”
Ciocan of Cosmoprof agrees the future will most likely include greater inclusion of multipurpose products that double as skin care treatments.
“Colors have become edgier too and I expect the trend toward high-impact/high-definition (HD) colors will evolve,” she told Happi. “With lip being a focus this season, I think future attention will be placed more on the eye makeup.”
The industry will continue to see evolution and innovation in the overlap between skin care and makeup, noted Sharpe of Birchbox. She added, “Customers are looking for products that help them achieve a glowing radiant complexion and beauty brands are continuing to deliver newness here.”
Innovation always—these two words are the future of color cosmetics, according to Varano of Kevyn Aucoin. The industry insider told Happi, “It’s all about leading the market with the newest product with the most innovative packaging, formula and/or color payoff.”
Ajinomoto North America Inc.
Raleigh, NC
Tel: 877-507-9303
Email: namjoshid@ajiusa.com/ ahadl@ajiusa.com
Website: www.ajiaminobeauty.com
Amihope OL
INCI: Capryloyl lysine
Suggested Use Levels: 0.5-15.0 wt.%
Applications: Color cosmetics (foundation, lipstick, makeup, pressed and loose powder, etc.), powder surface preparation agents, skin care and hair care products.
Comments: Amihope OL is an amino acid derived, natural, highly lubricious functional powder, which is insoluble in both oil and water. It is useful in surface modification (hydrophilic to hydrophobic, improvement of fluidity of oil / powder).
Amihope LL
INCI: Lauroyl lysine
Suggested Use Levels: 0.5 – 15.0 wt.%
Applications: Color cosmetics (foundation, lipstick, makeup, pressed and loose powder, etc.), powder surface preparation agents, skin care and hair care products.
Comments: Amihope LL is an amino acid derived, natural (Ecocert certified natural), highly lubricious functional powder, which is insoluble in both oil and water. It has a very soft, smooth and silky feel. It can be adsorbed to the surface of inorganic powders to improve physicochemical properties. It can be used as a pigment dispersing agent or a texture improver in makeup, skin care and hair care products.
Eldew PS-203R
INCI: Phytosteryl/octyldodecyl lauroyl glutamate
Suggested Use Levels: 0.5 – 10.0 wt.%
Applications: Skin care (emolliency and stability properties in emulsions and anhydrous systems, surfactant systems), hair care (shampoos, conditioners, treatment products), makeup products (excellent pigment dispersiblity, emolliency, moisturization)
Comments: Eldew PS-203R is an amino acid derived emollient. It has ceramide-like property. It helps in skin and hair moisturization. It has a good water holding capacity. It also has good pigment dispersibility and excellent emulsion stabilization properties. It helps in keeping the skin in good condition, as it has functions similar to the intercellular lipids. It also helps repair hair damage caused by hair waving and hair dyeing/coloring.
Gelatinization Agent EB-21 and Gelatinization Agent GP-1
INCI: Dibutyl ethylhexanoyl glutamide (EB-21), dibutyl lauroyl glutamide (GP-1)
Suggested Use Levels: 0.2 – 5.0 wt.%
Applications: Skin care, hair care, sun care, makeup (lipgloss, lipstick, eyeshadow, mascara)
Comments: EB-21 and GP-1 are amino acid derived oil gelling agents. They provide hardness, strength, stability to the product even at very high temperatures. These can form highly clear oil gels, as well as hard oil gel sticks. The sensory feel of the oil gels and oil sticks is the same as the oils. These can be used in anhydrous products as well as emulsions. These ingredients have diverse applications in makeup products.
Ashland
Bridgewater, NJ
Tel: (800) 505-8984
E-mail: personalcare@ashland.com
Website: www.Ashland.com/personalcare
Blumilight Biofunctional
INCI: Water (and) butylene glycol (and) theobroma cacao (cocoa) seed extract
Suggested Use Level: 1% (clinically tested at 1%)
Applications: Foundations
Comments: Blumilight is a Theobroma extract from a sustainable cocoa from Peru. It is rich in peptides, saccharides and polyphenols and has demonstrated a decrease in Reactive Oxygen Species during artificial blue light stress (in vitro), a visible improvement of elastin fibers network (ex vivo), an improvement of skin elasticity (in vivo) and a visible improvement of skin wrinkles (in vivo). A perfect addition to a 'selfie' foundation designed to blur our imperfections and protect skin from artificial blue light stress, such as cell phones and laptop computers.
Centerchem, Inc.
Norwalk, CT
Tel: (203) 822-9800
Website: www.centerchem.com
Lingostem
INCI: Water, glycerin, vaccinium vitis-idaea fruit extract, citric acid, xanthan gum
Suggested Use Levels: 1.0 – 2.0%
Applications: Anti-aging skin products, sun protection products
Comments: Lingostem is a natural cosmetic active ingredient based on plant stem cells obtained from lingonberry (vaccinium vitis-idaea). It is part of the Provital Stem Cells Collection product line, in which a controlled cell culture is developed from stem cells to achieve the synthesis of those natural compounds offering the required cosmetic properties. Lingostem is lingonberry stem cells designed to prevent and reverse photoaging, mimicking one of nature’s solutions to fight damaging effects of solar radiation in plants. It is able to repair and protect skin against the oxidative damage caused by solar radiations such as UV and IR-A, improving skin's antioxidant activity, reducing wrinkles and spots, and improving moisturization, firmness and elasticity. The result is skin with a young and healthy appearance, which is more resilient against sun damage.
Micro Powders, Inc.
Tarrytown, NY
Tel: 914-793-4058
Email: mpi@micropowders.com
Website: www.MPIpersonalcare.com
Naturesorb 1000
INCI: Copernicia cerifera (carnauba) wax, calcium silicate
Suggested Use Levels: Up to 10%
Applications: All color cosmetics and skin care
Comments: This is 100% natural fine powder with smooth and luxurious feel. Provides significant oil absorption & matting property to the color cosmetics powders, emulsions & anhydrous formulations. It also provides matting property and reduces oily feel with creams and lotions formulations.
GelMatte 511
INCI: Polypropylene, isohexadecane, polyamide-8, polyhydroxystearic acid
Suggested Use Levels: 5.0% - 10.0%
Applications: Color cosmetics and skin care: anhydrous formulations, O/W type emulsions & SPF formulations.
Comments: Enhances the overall quality similar to the upscale brand formulation. Improves wear, stability, matting property and overall aesthetics. Helps to reduce the shine and provides excellent matting effect to the cosmetic formulation.
GelSlip 519
INCI: PTFE, isohexadecane, polyamide-8, polyhydroxystearic acid
Suggested Use Levels: 5.0-10.0%
Applications: Color cosmetics and skin care: O/W type emulsions as well as anhydrous formulations. Includes SPF products.
Comments: Enhances the overall quality similar to the upscale brand formulation. Improves wear, stability, slip and overall aesthetics. Helps to reduce the drag and provides excellent luxurious non-oily slip similar to the upscale brand formulation.
Sensient Cosmetic Technologies
South Plainfield, NJ
Phone: 980-757-4500
Email: cosmeticsales@sensient.com
Website: www.sensient-cosmetics.com/
Covasterol
INCI: Glyceryl isostearate (and) isostearyl alcohol (and) brassica
campestris (rapeseed) sterols (and) butyrospermum parkii (shea) butter (and) euphorbia cerifera (candellila) wax
Suggested Use Levels: 5%
Applications: Problem skin, pore refining, sebum reduction, complexion
perfector
Comments: Covasterol is a unique blend of plant phytosterols, emollients and plant waxes. Clinical tests on a large panel of women demonstrated Covasterol’s unique ability to reduce sebum production and pore size in only seven days. Comparison tests show that Covasterol can be used as a natural alternative to traditional cholesterol while providing a wide array of additional
benefits from moisturization, hydration, comfort and refined skin texture and smoothness.
Sensibiopro C
INCI: Aqua (and) glycerin (and) hydrolyzed yeast protein (and) xanthan gum (and) gluconolactone (and) sodium benzoate (and) PPG-26 buteth-26 (and) PEG 40 hydrogenated castor oil
Suggested Use Levels: 1-5%
Applications: Hair coloration protection, hair conditioner
Comments: Sensibiopro C is a new combination of hydrolyzed proteins with natural affinity for hair fibers. It provides easy combing, color retention, conditioning effect, and it preserves and protects the intensity of the color for semi-permanent hair coloration.
Arianor Flash
INCI: Basic blue 99 and basic brown 16 and acid violet 43 and basic red 76 and basic yellow 57 and basic brown 17 and polyquaternium 37 and hydrolyzed yeast protein
Suggested Use Levels: 2 to 4%
Applications: Semi permanent or temporary hair coloration
Comments: The Arianor Flash range has been designed to simplify formulators' work. Arianor Flash is a synergistic blend of cationic dyes and biotechnological complexes that promotes intense and long lasting hair coloration. Simply add some water, and you can immediately use this product for hair coloration. Eight shades available.
Arianor Magenta
INCI: Basic violet 2
Suggested Use Levels: 0.5-1%
Applications: Semi-permanent and oxidative hair coloration.
Comments: A new basic dye for natural, chromatic and pastel shades adapted to non-oxidative and oxidative applications on hair.
Covalumine Triple Black AS
INCI: Alumina (and) triethoxycaprylylsilane (and) CI 77499
Suggested Use Levels: 0.01-100%
Applications: Face makeup, eye makeup, lips makeup, tinted skin care
Comments: Covalumine Triple Black AS allows the creation of intense black eyeshadows. The Covalumine AS technology is a new generation of composites (mineral platelets) coated with pigments and AS surface treatment for natural skin glow and soft application for makeup applications.
Shin-Etsu Silicones of America
Akron, OH
Tel: (330) 630-9860
Email: cosmetics@shinetsusilicones.com
Website:www.shinetsusilicones.com
KSG-710
INCI: Dimethicone (and) dimethicone/polyglycerin-3 crosspolymer
Suggested Use Levels: 3-5%
Applications: Makeup, foundations, skin creams
Comments: KSG-710 is a polyglyerin modified, crosslinked silicone polymer swollen in silicone fluid which functions as a W/Si emulsifier. This PEG-free material can stabilize high internal phase emulsions with a large particle size, and the glycerin-modified crosslinker provides good moisturizing effect. These unique properties allow for the development of light, fresh feeling textures with a soft, rich skin feel, such as skin care, anti-aging with actives and highly hydrating products.
KF-6104
INCI: Polyglyceryl-3 polydimethylsiloxyethyl dimethicone
Suggested Use Levels: 0.1-2%
Applications: Makeup, foundations, skin creams
Comments: KF-6104 is a colorless to light yellow transparent emulsifying silicone fluid. It is a branched, polyglycerin-modified silicone that creates W/Si emulsions, is PEG free, and has good compatibility with silicones. Emulsions made with KF-6104 are easy to spread on the skin and feel very soft and rich.
X-22-6695B
INCI:Simmondsia chinensis (jojoba) seed oil (and) lauryl dimethicone/polyglycerin-3 crosspolymer
Suggested Use Levels: 3-5%
Applications: Makeup, foundations, skin creams
Comments: X-22-6695B is a silicone crosspolymer gel swelled in jojoba fluid. The crosspolymer part is glycerin modified which provides good moisturizing effect. It can be used not only as thickening agent for organic and natural ingredients, but also works as an emulsifier for making W/O emulsions.
Tri-K Industries
Denville, NJ
Tel: (973) 298-8850
Email: info@tri-k.com
Website: www.tri-k.com
Fision WrinkleFix
INCI: Water, hydrolyzed rice protein, hydrolyzed pea protein, glycine, proline, hydrolyzed sodium hyaluronate
Suggested Use Levels: 1-3%
Applications: Active color cosmetics
Comments: Introducing Fision WrinkleFix, a superior multi-active complex to target deep wrinkles and age spots. Through in vivo tests, this product was shown to minimize the appearance of wrinkles, improve cell vitality and stimulate hyaluronic acid production. Revive your youth - perfect, fortify and renew your skin for a timeless complexion.
Fision Instant Lift
INCI: Water, hydrolyzed soy protein, acacia senegal gum, xanthan gum
Suggested Use Levels: 3-5%
Applications: Emulsions, face & eye lifting make-up primers, BB/CC creams
Comments: A natural, non-GMO, water soluble and easy to use solution creates a lightweight film that tightens for immediate skin firming to minimize the appearance of wrinkles and fine lines. Consumer evaluations confirm that after only one application, Fision Instant Lift leaves skin firmer, younger looking and more radiant than both the placebo and baseline. Whether looking to create impeccably smooth skin for a photo-shopped appearance or use as a #NoMakeupMakeup look, Fision Instant Lift creates instantly beautiful and flawless looking skin.
PhytoVie Defense
INCI: Brassica campestris/aleurites fordi oil copolymer
Suggested Use Levels: 1-3% Applications: Face & body primers, moisturizing creams, BB/CC products, mascaras, lip sticks Comments (please keep to 1-3 sentences): A biodegradable, botanical based polymer made from tung (China wood) and rapeseed oils, PhytoVie Defense forms a flexible and uniform film on the skin for even coverage that has the power to stay on skin longer, delivering superior protection from damage caused by aging pollutants and environmental aggressors. In color cosmetics, PhytoVie Defense adds volume and thickness to eye lashes when used in mascaras, and reduces tackiness while adding gloss to lip formulations.
Vantage Specialty Ingredients, Inc.
Warren, NJ
Phone: (973) 345-8600
Email: nicole.finn@vantagegrp.com
Website: www.vantagegrp.com
Desert Whale Jojoba Milk
INCI: Water (and) simmondsia chinensis (jojoba) seed oil (and) propanediol (and) phospholipids (and) glycerin (and) sodium hyaluronate (and) xanthan gum
Suggested Use Levels: 2-100%
Applications: Milks, boosters for finished formulations, spray-able lotions, cream-gels, serums, cleansers, shampoos and cold process formulas.
Comments: Desert Whale Jojoba Milk is an innovative, white, low viscosity liquid with a lightweight elegant feel. It is made using ultrasonic cavitation. Thanks to this process and choice of lipids a unique, stable oil-in-water emulsion structure is created with tiny jojoba oil droplets. Desert Whale Jojoba Milk has a thin, milky consistency and conditioning benefits for skin and hair.
CytoRegulin
INCI: Glycerin (and) water (and) heptapeptide-32 (proposed)
Suggested Use Levels: 2-3%
Applications: Serums, spot treatments, anti-aging creams, and post-aesthetic procedure treatment.
Comments: CytoRegulin is a uniquely designed heptapeptide that can absorb into the skin without the help of additional delivery vehicles that are often required when formulating with peptides. CytoRegulin mimics the action of a key growth factor called Transforming Growth Factor β-1 (TGFβ-1), resulting in the activation of multiple pathways critical to healing and repair of aging skin.
Liponate BDP
INCI: Bis-diglyceryl polyacyladipate-2
Suggested Use Levels: 2-30%; Lip Products, 2-5%; Skin Care and Hair Care
Applications: Lipstick and lipgloss, moisturizing creams and lotions, hairstyling and pomades
Comments: This smooth ester, originally developed as a lanolin substitute, adds a glossy finish and increases color payoff in color cosmetics. In skin case, it provides a substantive film to protect and moisturize the skin. For use in hair care, Liponate BDP adds both structure and glide to hair styling products such as pomades and hair waxes.