“In a saturated market, consumers are now able to shop for their specific hair type. Whether it is thin or thick, curly or straight, they want something that is designed to achieve results,” said Umberto Savone, master cutter and formulator at Umberto Beverly Hills, which is sold at Target stores.
As seen in the mass market, formulators are branching out to offer more than just the classic spray or foam to style tresses. According to data from Information Resources Inc. (IRI), for the 52 weeks ended Oct. 30, 2016, hair spray/spritz product sales were flat at $714.3 million while hair styling gel/mousse sales slipped 2.3% to $1.08 billion at total US multi-outlet (supermarkets, drugstores, mass-market retailers, military commissaries and select club and dollar retail chains). Meanwhile, in the professional realm, hair styling sales rose 5% to $336 million and specialty products grew 6.7% to $443 million, both at manufacturer’s dollars, noted Cyrus Bulsara of Professional Consultants & Resources, Plano, TX. This is due to “high demand for at-home use during styling as clients do not go in only for ‘shampoo and blow dry’ styles anymore, excluding blow dry bars in higher income areas.”
Bulsara added that multifunctional products that give shine and hold, and also thicken or nourish the hair are emerging in the industry.
“I think shoppers still look through beauty magazines, but are also looking to online outlets and blogs for the latest styling aids that have won awards and have good stories attached to them,” said celebrity stylist Garren, who is also co-founder of the R+Co hair care collection. “I think shoppers first and foremost care about the quality of their hair and then they look for styling products that work well with their hair type for the style they are trying to achieve.”
Right now, clients are getting daring with their hair and doing lots of fringe and bangs to give them a rocker look, Garren told Happi.
“I think in 2017, people will want their hair to look edgy and different from everybody else,” he explained, suggesting R+Co.’s Grid Structural Hold Setting Spray and Trophy Shine + Texture Spray as two leading innovations that meet these styling requests.
Anthony Cole, an editorial stylist and international top artist for Sebastian Professional in New York City, told Happi that most of his clients are looking for products that do not weigh hair down, or better yet, don’t feel like there is any product in their hair at all.
“What’s hot right now is soft pretty hair with a 1960s/1950s influence—think soft waves and side swept bangs,” he said.
As seen with big brands ranging from prestige’s Alterna to the mass market’s L’Oréal Paris, today’s hair styling products are infused with premium ingredients and offer unique benefits.
For example, Alterna’s Caviar Anti-Aging Infinite Color Hold Vibrancy Serum provides rejuvenation, UV protection and shine. It can be used as a leave-in treatment to replenish moisture and boost radiance, or can be mixed with any Alterna conditioner to transform it into a color-recharging masque. The company is also rolling out Alterna Caviar Anti-Aging Smoothing Hydra-Gelée, a versatile formulation that hydrates and smoothes unwanted frizz. Infused with caviar extract, omega-3 and thirst-quenching marine botanicals, it leaves hair perfectly smooth, shiny and healthy looking, said the company. Products launch at Sephora this month.
Meanwhile, at Ulta, Alterna will release Caviar Style Invisible Roller Contour Setting Spray, touted as a lightweight, heat-activated “roller in a bottle” that creates instant and long-lasting curls of all sizes. A medium-hold setting spray, it lifts from root to tip and molds hair into lush shapes. The proprietary Flex-Strength complex is a synergistic blend of strengthening proteins and nourishing extracts to give hair both strength and flexibility, and resist damage due to vigorous styling and heat tools. The brand is also launching Alterna Caviar Style Satin Rapid Blowout Balm, a lightweight lotion, also with Flex-Strength, that’s designed to deliver flawless blowouts with a glossy finish and cuts down on style time.
Macadamia Professional, which bills itself as “the oil authority for global textures,” is expanding its styling portfolio with two products for both professionals and consumers. Both are said to meet the needs of diverse textures and styles. The lightweight Foaming Root Boosting Spray is ideal for fine-to-medium textures to lift, amplify and texturize hair right at the roots. It increases volume while providing just the right amount of hydration and moisturization with a residue-free hold that is never stiff or flaky. In the meantime, the Thermal Protectant Spray boasts a thermal protectant silicone to shield hair from as much as 450°F of heat styling while avocado oil, hydrolyzed rice and vegetable proteins, along with a conditioning silicone blend that delivers moisturizing and healing properties for a humidity-resistant, frizz-free, shine. Both launches feature the water lily fragrance, a fan favorite of the Macadamia Professional scent profiles.
As with all Macadamia Professional products, these new styling extensions are color safe, cruelty-, sulfate- and paraben-free and contain Macadamia Professional’s exclusive Pro Oil Complex, a therapeutic blend of macadamia and argan oils rich in omega 7, 5, 3, and 9 fatty acids which deeply, yet weightlessly, nourish and renew hair’s natural texture.
A 2016 launch, indie brand IGK was started by four hairstylists and is now popular with Sephora customers. Leading the way is the aptly-named Sold Out Curl Priming Basecoat, an innovative style primer formulated to be used as a basecoat to create defined, humidity-proof curls that refuse to lose shape, smoothness or shine. Key ingredients include sweet almond oil and sea kelp while a high-end “IGK” scent blend features sophisticated notes of black pepper, blackberries, dewy violet, geranium and leather accord. Another successful product from the brand is Speechless Dry Oil Spray for both hair and body.
American Crew is adding to its illustrious portfolio of stylers with the Heavy Hold Pomade for March. According to the company, it creates sleek, smooth styles with high hold and maximum shine. This product supports and maintains shape while retaining hold, even on longer hair. Suitable for everyday use, the water-based formula washes out easily without residue and works well for all hair types. The key ingredient here is glycerin for a smooth and easy application.
In fact, the hottest men in Hollywood have showed us that scruff is the latest look for 2017. From Ryan Reynolds to Chris Pine, the Bed Head for Men by Tigi new grooming collection helps achieve #beardgoals. Products, sold at Ulta, include Lion Tamer Beard & Hair Balm with light control and conditioning that lasts, as well as Fuel Around Nourishing Beard Oil to quell “beard burn” and Mo Rider Moustache Crafter.
“Guys are starting to take more pride in their appearance and are seeing the value in looking and feeling their best. There is this old-fashioned notion that it’s ‘manlier’ to not care about the way you look, but now, more than ever, men are breaking those barriers and realizing that when you look good on the outside, your inner self feels good,” said Tigi International creative director Anthony Mascolo.
A pop of color—or a head full of rainbow hues, as seen on this month’s cover—is another key trend in hair care. Recently, master stylist Vivienne Mackinder of Northhampton, NY found herself within the grasp of artistic inspiration and her need to express it through her life-long muse that is hair design. Along with famed hair and beauty photographer Roberto Ligresti and Joico colorist Gion Vincent on the job for hair color, she created a unique editorial collection, inspired by Chinese philosophy’s Yin and Yang theory to describe how seemingly opposite or contrary forces may actually be complementary or interconnected.
For those who want to rock colorful locks without the commitment, Joico’s InstaTint is an ideal product. Temporary pigments mean no long-term commitment or processing damage. And Joico’s exclusive Bio-Advanced Peptide Complex repairs, protects, fights frizz, and adds shine with each and every application too. Colors span from Mermaid Blue to Orchid.
Also newsworthy in mass, food and drug retailers nationwide this month, L’Oréal Paris is rolling out Advanced Hairstyle Air Dry It Ruffled Body Mousse, Advanced Hairstyle Air Dry It Undone Style Cream and Advanced Hairstyle Air Dry It Wave Swept Spray. These lightweight formulations are said to tame frizz and add shine to textured or wavy locks.
Suave’s Luxe Style Infusion collection is also gaining a bigger following. Products range from a plump-hold hairspray that dispenses as an ultra-fine mist, offering long-lasting hold with a brushable finish to an anti-humidity spray that imparts frizz resistance even in 95% humidity, according to the company. Also big at Suave this season is an Anti-Breakage Serum infused with B7 biotin said to wrap each strand.
Pantene is promoting its “breakthrough” styling product: Airspray, an aerosol alcohol-free styling product. This next generation hairspray delivers flexible hold, moisture and natural movement, without stiffness or stickiness. The absence of alcohol in the formula means users can enjoy a more luxurious, light and fresh scent, according to the company. The specially designed nozzle also provides an easy, fast-drying application ensuring the right balance of water and polymer is delivered to hair for a more natural feeling upon drying. Pantene Pro-V Airspray is available in three variations.
Target is upping its beauty offerings this month with the addition of an exclusive new hair care collection with celebrity hairstylist and founder of TheBeautyDepartment.com Kristin Ess. She is best known for her red carpet hair creations and wanted to make a collection for at-home styling.
Ranging in price from $10 to $14, Kristin Ess Hair features a curated assortment of 15 Target exclusives for styling and restoring hair, all formulated with a proprietary strengthening complex called Zip-Up.
Counterbalance was the inspiration behind Marissa Webb’s Spring/Summer 2017 Fashion Week show—and this concept translates into the beauty looks arriving later this year. TreSemmé Stylist Jeanie Syfu was inspired to create hairstyles on the runway that are all about making an impression while still feeling natural.
“The overall collection embodies an urban modern girl, with a laid back feel—it’s all about achievable drama,” said the designer in a media statement.
Savone noted that the S/S 2017 FW season showed the industry that texture and shine are in for the year.
“You can stay on trend in numerous ways, if you prefer the slick look you can do a sleek high ponytail or comb and gel hair back away from the face,” he told Happi.
“Textured looks can be achieved by using your hair’s natural texture and adding a chunky braid or curling hair in loose locks for an extra dose of volume.”
Garren observed that on a broader scope, hair styling is going to be interpreted per person—creating a variety of appearances that run the gamut.
He said, “People have been getting similar haircuts and I think in the future people are going to be interested in finding their own ‘look’ by going to a hairstylist and getting something unique that reflects their overall style and personality.”
Cover Image Credits for Joico
Hair: Vivienne Mackinder
Hair-color: Gion Vincent, Joico Guest Artist
Photography: Roberto Ligresti
Fashion Stylist: Montgomery Frazier
Makeup: David Maderich
Hair Assistants: Donna Pressel, Kari Upchurch and Detra Smith
Wardrobe: Malan Breton