Features

Garden Variety

By Melissa Meisel, Associate Editor | March 1, 2017

Color cosmetics for Spring 2017 are inspired by the beauty of nature and new beginnings.

A crisp and zesty yellow-green shade, global color authority Pantone’s Color of the Year for 2017—Pantone 15-0343 Greenery—evokes the first days of spring when the earth is revived, restored and renewed after the long cold winter. Illustrative of flourishing foliage and the lushness of the outdoors, the Pantone Color of the Year selection captures the essence of what we see taking place in our culture during a specific moment in time, serving as a reflection of a mood and an attitude on the part of the consumers, said Pantone in its report.


According to the color service, Greenery reflects a reconciliation of sorts during a time when the social and political landscape is getting increasingly hostile in many parts of the world.


“While Serenity and Rose Quartz (the duo Pantone Color of the Year 2016) expressed the need for harmony in a chaotic world, Greenery bursts forth in 2017 to provide us with the hope we collectively yearn for amid a complex social and political landscape,” said Leatrice Eiseman, executive director of the Pantone Color Institute. “Satisfying our growing desire to rejuvenate, revitalize and unite, Greenery symbolizes the reconnection we seek with nature, one another and a larger purpose.”


Greenery is deployed as a chic, confident punch of color for hair, lips, eyes and nails. It is also a camouflaging base for natural beauty looks, with green makeup rooted in color-correcting trends. A complementary color to red shades, Greenery plays down ruddiness in the skin as well. It can always be applied to nails; i.e., Essie’s Spring 2017 On The Roadie lacquer.


In the overall Spring 2017 Pantone Color Report, one of the things that tastemakers observed was a renewed sense of imagination in which color was appearing in context that was different than the traditional, noted Eiseman.


“Reminiscent of the hues that surround us in nature, our Spring 2017 Fashion Color Report evokes a spectrum of emotion and feeling,” she explained. “From the warmth of sunny days with Pantone 13-0755 Primrose Yellow to the invigorating feeling of breathing fresh mountain air with Pantone 18-0107 Kale and the desire to escape to pristine waters with Pantone 14-4620 Island Paradise, designers applied color in playful, yet thoughtful and precise combinations to fully capture the promises, hope and transformation that we yearn for each Spring.”


Money Matters

Mass facial cosmetics sales rose 6.2% to $2.1 billion, according to data from Information Resources Inc. (IRI) for total US multi-outlet (supermarkets, drugstores, mass market retailers, military commissaries and select club and dollar retail chains) for the 52 weeks ended Dec. 25, 2016. While blush slipped 5.6% to $149.8 million and bronzer was flat at $58.7 million, foundation sales rose 5.2% to $1.02 billion, powder climbed 5.8% to $383.7 million and concealer sales jumped 10% to $273.4 million. Body accessories rose 35.6% to $129.3 million. Makeup combo stayed flat at $54.8 million.


Meanwhile, lip cosmetic sales leaped 7.6% to $906.6 million, as sales of lipstick rose 7.6% to $666.6 million, lipgloss added 4.3% to $159.7 million and lipliner increased 3.6% to $65 million. Lip combo sales leaped 72.7% to $4.4 million. Lip treatment hit the roof at 122.3% to $10.8 million—underscoring the fact that tinted treatments are big right now!


Eye cosmetic sales stayed flat at just over $2.0 billion. Mascara sales were flat at $933.6 million. Eyeliner fell 3.6% to $594.8 million, eyeshadow sales dipped 5% to $305.7 million. It is important to note, however, that eyebrow makeup sales skyrocketed 32.4% to $235.8 million. Eye combo sales fell 13.2% to $39.4 million.


US 2016 prestige makeup sales rose 12% to $7.6 billion and accounted for 45% of total US prestige beauty sales, according to The NPD Group. In fact, makeup was the big headliner for the industry in 2016. Four out of every five dollars gained in prestige beauty stemmed from color cosmetics, according to the market research company.


“For years, makeup has been watched and followed—remember the famous ‘lipstick index?’—as an economic market indicator of where women invest during tough or uncertain times,” noted Karen Grant, senior vice president and global industry analyst at NPD. “Now, makeup has moved so very far beyond that; it defines the selfie-obsessed, image-driven, influencer-made culture of our time. Yes, makeup is still followed and watched, but now it is by most every woman looking to learn, find a new option for self-expression, for the quick-fix to look instantly younger, or to achieve that perfected ‘natural’ appearance.”


What Do They Need?

Beauty consumers are savvy shoppers. According to Rogelio Reyna, global training, education and artistry director, Cargo Cosmetics, New York City, shoppers conduct extensive research before purchasing products and look to experts for guidance.


“When it comes to cosmetics, they want multipurpose products with long-lasting results. It’s not the price tag that matters—they will pay extra for the items they love or pop into a drugstore to get their inexpensive must-haves,” he told Happi. “It’s important that the products deliver results that last.”


Like Grant, Reyna also noted more consumers are learning about new products on social media.


“Brands are announcing launches on Instagram, working with digital influencers for YouTube and SnapChat reviews and people are consuming that from their iPhones,” he explained. “Then they are ordering online or researching the closest retailer that stocks the item they are seeing on their newsfeed.”


Naira Aslanian, an analyst with Kline & Company, Parsippany, NJ, agreed.


“With the abundance of information available with a click of a button, consumers turn to the web to gather information about products, applications and seek recommendations from influencers, friends, or, reviews on color cosmetics,” she told Happi. “Trend-setting stores such as Sephora and Ulta, or, niche beauty boutiques encourage their customers to try the products before purchasing. Beauty apps with augmented reality have also become key in trying on a product, virtually, before making a purchase. These trends appeal to the experimental millennials— who are constantly looking for new products and innovations.”


Famous Faces

There is already a barrage of juicy celebrity-based color cosmetic news so far this year. For example, Revlon named Gwen Stefani, singer and international fashion icon, as its newest global brand ambassador. This three-time Grammy Award winning singer, songwriter, fashion designer and entrepreneur—who also once graced the cover of Happi—will be representing the trend-setting beauty brand in global marketing. One of her first roles will be starring in the brand’s Choose Love campaign, which is now on broadcast, digital and social platforms.


“We are thrilled that Gwen Stefani will be representing Revlon as a global brand ambassador,” said Revlon President and CEO Fabian Garcia. “Gwen is a modern-day icon; a Grammy-winning artist, a trendsetter, an entrepreneur and loving mother. The versatility of these accomplishments demonstrates her message of female empowerment, one that strongly resonates across generations of fans.”


Make Up For Ever recently announced a global artistic collaboration with the British cosmetic chameleon and recording artist Jessie J. The Make Up For Ever’s artist lip and face collection has  several launches slated throughout 2017. The collaboration kicks off with a music video in which Make Up For Ever set the stage for the transformation of Jessie J.


“I enjoy revealing different parts of my personality in my look which makes Make Up For Ever such a great partner,” said Jessie J. “The core of the brand is what I am about: creating characters to showcase who you are, exploring and expressing yourself in the way you want through makeup, colors and energy. I definitely feel that my makeup reflects how I feel whether you want to do just a lip or a full blown smoky eye, your mood can be reflected in your makeup and this is why life is a stage!”


Hourglass recently rolled out Girl, a lipstick collection intended to help recognize the good in others and yourself. At the center of the campaign are 20 shades with names ranging from Protector to Activist and Innovator to Visionary, and all of them brought to life by 1990s supermodel-turned-activist Jenny Shimizu.


This spring Gelish Mini and Morgan Taylor will introduce the Beauty and the Beast 2017 collection. In correlation with Walt Disney Pictures’ release of the live-action film, Beauty and the Beast, the collection is filled with dreamy shades of red pearls and pink and baby blue crèmes. This whimsical collection will make the wearer feel like the
Belle at any ball!


“It’s extremely wonderful to collaborate with Disney again and create this collection for the Beauty and the Beast live-action movie,” says Danny Haile, CEO and founder of Gelish and Morgan Taylor Lacquer. “We wanted to be honorable guests of this beloved and classic story by developing colors that reflect the beauty that comes from within.”


Another noteworthy pairing this season is color brand Cargo Cosmetics and Hawaiian singer and songwriter Anuhea. The vocalist is the face of Cargo’s Spring/Summer 2017 collection, which will be sold at more than 1,100 Kohl’s locations nationwide.


“Anuhea’s natural beauty, exotic style and magnetic charisma embody the spirit of Hawaii making her an ideal choice for this collaboration,” says Brian Robinson, president of Cargo Cosmetics. “Her authenticity and uniqueness set her apart from the mainstream. We are both excited and proud to have her representing Cargo.”


Private equity firm Main Post Partners has made an investment in color cosmetics brand Milk Makeup. The minority investment is the first outside capital for Milk and will help management accelerate Milk’s path toward becoming a leading global brand.


For more than 20 years, Milk Studios has been at the cultural intersection of the fashion, music photography and film worlds and is a hub for nurturing creativity. Last year, Milk launched its first consumer product line, Milk Makeup, which has rapidly grown as the leader of a pack of new rebellious, upstart indie brands. Milk Makeup was founded by Milk’s Mazdack Rassi and his co-founders, along with Dianna Ruth, Georgie Greville and Zanna Roberts Rassi.


With its innovative beauty, skin care and hair care products available online and through brick-and-mortar retailers like Sephora, Urban Outfitters and Birchbox, the brand will expand internationally into Sephora Canada and quadruple its door count this year.


The “heart and soul” of MAC Cosmetics comes alive at dozens of Fashion Week events around the world. The company prides itself on discovering new talent and working with industry leaders who develop iconic beauty styles. Recently, MAC teamed up with three makeup maestros—Diane Kendal, James Kaliardos and Kabuki—to create color collections reflecting each artist’s signature style. Another recent noteworthy launch at MAC was the Caitlyn Jenner collection for the eyes, lips and cheeks.


Last month, Katy Perry debuted her expanded color cosmetics with CoverGirl at the 59th Grammy Awards. The Katy Kat Pearl collection includes two new eyeliners, four lipsticks and two shadow-and-highlighter duos, all dropping in stores in April and online at covergirl.com this month.


Peep This

The bold brow is still very much on-trend, according to Joanna Schlip, celebrity makeup artist for Physicians Formula, City of Industry, CA. ”But it’s more natural and raw, especially at the ends,” she told Happi.


To create the look, Schlip suggests the Eye Booster Feather Brow Fiber & Highlighter Duo from Physicians Formula. 


“It’s a two-in-one item that features brow fibers to fill in sparse areas and a highlighting pencil to give brows more definition,” she said. “This is part of a balanced face. The look is super natural. Skin is glowy and illuminated, brows and eyes are defined but the effect is effortless like you woke up that way.”


For those shopping for novel eyeshadows, European makeup brand Catrice Cosmetics has landed stateside at Ulta with some innovative formulations. The Catrice Glam Fusion Powder to Gel shimmers with a first-of-its-kind, show-stopper eyecolor that changes from a delicate powder into a gel upon application.


Find your inner boss with new Maybelline New York The Colossal Big Shot, a mascara that creates fully loaded volume in just one coat, according to the company. The fully-loaded brush contains five wells filled to the brim with wavy bristles to maximize the delivery of the formula to lashes, coating even the tiniest lash from root to tip. The unique design of the bristles gathers more formula, boosting volume beyond belief. With this collagen-fueled formula, this is the latest addition to Maybelline’s roster of mascaras.


Competitor CoverGirl’s So Lashy mascara is designed to work on all lashes to reveal bold, dark sexy lashes, according to the company, which calls it the world’s first “equal opportunity” mascara. Other launches from the brand include Shape + Design Brow Mascara said to provide a natural and defined brow that lasts all day. Its buildable formula shapes and defines brows without clumping and flaking. A curved applicator allows for precise application.


Shiseido’s Full Lash Multi-Dimension Mascara/Full Lash Multi-Dimension Mascara Waterproof offers dramatically fuller, thicker and longer-looking lashes with a weightless feel, according to the company. The unique bendable head rotates 360 degrees and bends as much as 30 degrees for easy application, reaching even the tiniest lashes. This mascara helps amplify the natural curve of lashes for a romantic lift and perfected curl from root to tip and corner to corner, according to Shiseido.


Face Forward

Clean and minimal is in, so shouldn’t makeup applications be the same? To achieve this, many consumers are turning to mesh cushion compacts to create a natural, clear complexion.  The travel-sized product provides moisture, prevents contamination or dry out, and is easily controlled so your hands remain clean and your skin, flawless.


Liquid makeup goes mobile in Maybelline’s unique, portable Dream Cushion compact that provides a built-in cushion for effortless application anytime, anywhere. Just press the puff applicator onto the cushion, tap foundation onto skin for perfectly complete coverage. The ease of the puff applicator, combined with the incredibly lightweight liquid foundation melts onto skin creating a smooth, fresh glow in seconds.


Two prestige brands, Dr. Jart and IT Cosmetics, are also going big with the cushion compact this spring. Dr. Jart+ Air Mesh utilizes a dual technology in its product to enhance the longevity of makeup applied to the skin. The air powder controls excess sebum and oil production, while the air fitting polymer forms a thin film on the skin to trap moisture, both increasing makeup’s longevity. Air Mesh is an anti-dust protectant that forms a powerful, yet thin barrier to safely shield skin from harmful environmental stressors such as fine dust, too.


Developed with plastic surgeons, IT Cosmetics Confidence in a Compact starts as a solid serum, and is infused with full-coverage pigments and SPF 50+ UVA/UVB broad-spectrum physical sunscreen. According to the company, it delivers all the skin care benefits of the best-selling Confidence in a Cream, plus full-coverage foundation and SPF 50+ in one simple step! The solid serum technology combined with high-performance anti-aging ingredients is said to transform skin.


Ideal for even the most sensitive skin, Confidence in a Compact helps boost skin’s natural regenerative cycle, according to the company. The proprietary Anti-Aging Armour Regenerative Concentrate is activated upon contact to immerse skin in moisture, restore visible radiance, reduce the look of pores, discoloration, lines and wrinkles, and improve the look of firmness.


Meanwhile, Urban Decay Optical Illusion Complexion Primer is said to instantly blur flaws, reduce fine lines and makes pores seem to vanish for a porcelain-like texture. This lightweight primer has a slight pink tint to illuminate skin pre-makeup but dries down to a translucent, matte, powdery finish. The cushy, luxurious formula is created from a blend of argan, rosehip and meadowfoam seed oils to provide moisturizing and antioxidant benefits while vitamin E conditions skin. The result? An airbrushed finish with no Photoshop skills necessary!


Clinique is touting “one drop with endless possibilities” with new BIY “Blend It Yourself” Pigment Drops. Transform any moisturizer into a BB, CC or fuller coverage foundation by simply adjusting the number of drops mixed into the formula. The highly concentrated pure pigments are suspended in a super-lightweight, dual phase formula. Once the two phases are combined by shaking thoroughly, the formula turns into a thin fluid formulation that can be precisely measured in drops, and mixed with a moisturizer to create customizable coverage with skin care benefits. One drop of pure pigment creates sheer coverage; two or three, a fuller, more flawless coverage.
This revolutionary product features an instant blending technology that is activated once mixed to transform any moisturizer into a BB, CC, or fuller coverage foundation.


Or, if you want to grab and go from the store shelves, Neutrogena Hydro Boost Hydrating Tint, available in multiple shades, refreshes dry and thirsty skin for 24 hours with a weightless, water-gel, oil-free formulation. There is also a complementary concealer in the collection.


“Formulas that make skin look more healthy, natural and real will be coveted in 2017,” said Matthew Waitesmith, founder of prestige makeup brush company Artis of New York City. “Consumers have less patience for products that give makeup results that look like paint by number renditions.”


Lip Service

Color cosmetics for the lips are having a “massive comeback” according to Glamsquad director of makeup artistry Kelli J. Bartlett. Trends for lips for the season focus on vibrant, true-to-color shades, with the separation of mattes and metallics for the future.


The Sixties met the Nineties at the Temperley show during London Fashion Week. Rodial partnered with makeup artist Val Garland to create the models’ makeup.
“The look I created is a festival chic, Sharon Tate meets Kate Moss feel. Imagine Sharon Tate poking her head out of a tent at a festival, glowing skin with knowing eyes. I used the new Rodial Suede lips to create a simple matte lip that looks very natural and simple.”


The Rodial Suede Lips are a convenient jumbo crayon which works to leave a natural mattified finish on the lips. The long-lasting, non-drying formula is enriched with vitamin E with a creamy texture to keep lips smooth for hours.


Another trend, as seen at fragrance house Bond No. 9 in New York City, is the combination kit of a perfume and a color cosmetic item. The world’s first perfume-lipstick duo, Bond No. 9 Nolita, will arrive just in time for Spring 2017. Celebrating the trendy downtown neighborhood, Nolita’s bottle features an explosion of kisses in an array of gold-rimmed flame red, fuchsia and bubblegum pink lipstick colors—because for the Bond No. 9 Girl, one lipstick is never enough. Accompanying the Nolita eau de parfum is a creamy lipstick in Manhattan red.


And check out Esteé Lauder’s new Pure Color Love, out this month, a collection of high-impact lipsticks in a kaleidoscope of 30 vibrant shades and striking finishes. From bright and deep tones to nudes and neutrals, Pure Color Love creates customized looks for every outfit, every mood and every occasion. The formulation is infused with a “superfruit cocktail” of ingredients like pomegranate, mango and acai topped off with a sweet vanilla flavor.


Sister brand Clinique has collaborated with Crayola to create a 10-shade limited edition collection of Chubby Stick Moisturizing Lip Color Balm, in exclusive packaging inspired by the iconic crayons. Working closely with Crayola, Clinique chemists color matched and named these exclusive shades using some of Crayola’s most unique names like Mauvelous, Razzmatazz, Mango Tango and Tickle Me Pink. Now, with just the swipe of a crayon, anyone can be transported back to their childhood and relive the feeling of opening a new box of Crayola crayons!


Another newsworthy launch is from Laura Geller, the Fifty Kisses Lip Locking Liquid Color said to keep lips soft and kissable for up to 50 kisses. The pure pigment formula with a satin matte finish is longwearing in eight shades spanning from Ruby Romance to Melon Crush.


High impact color meets all-day wear with the new L’Oréal Paris Infallible Paints Collection. Lacquer up lips for a bold color statement with the Paints Lipcolor. In one stroke, the designer applicator precisely diffuses vibrant color to lips for high impact. The product formula is both smudge-proof and waterproof, offering comfortable wear all-day long in 14 shades.


Also in the mass market, the lipstick revolution goes muted with Rimmel London’s The Only 1 Matte Lipstick, an all-in-one matte lipcolor in 10 shades that delivers long-lasting wear due to a new volatile hybrid formula. A light emollient oil is combined with a liquid polymer to provide a comfortable feel while a non-drying oil is absorbed on application, creating a thin film between the skin and the pigment and banishing that irritating dry sensation often felt with matte lipsticks. The formula features volatile silicon to give a smooth and even color release, which helps to set the lipstick for superior wear, said the company.


“We’re seeing a change in lip product formulas,” explained makeup artist and beauty expert Neil Scibelli of New York City. “Two thousand sixteen was a very ‘matte’ year for lipsticks (and liquid lipsticks), but creamier, hydrating formulas are making their way back on-trend for 2017. Especially for red carpet events, I personally know that my clients are steering towards a healthier looking/glossy lip.”


Bright Days Ahead

A celebration of sunlight comes to life in Solstice Bloom, the limited-edition Spring/Summer 2017 Makeup Collection from Aveda. Poetic pastels are cheerfully meshed with grounding earthy shades in this new collection that marks the return of longer days and warmer weather.


“Solstice Bloom honors the time of year when we are officially leaving behind the darker days of winter and embracing the warmth of the sunlight,” said Janell Geason, Aveda global artistic director, makeup. “The collection’s palette of soft pastels and an energizing pop of magenta are elegantly intertwined with natural earth tones; and the textures, along with the colors, are designed to perfectly highlight one’s best features.”


Flash Forward

Well-groomed, filled-in brows will remain popular throughout the year, noted Reyna of Cargo Cosmetics.


“Matte lips have been huge the last few years but I predict a return to glossy, youthful, moisturized lips with gel formulas,” he added. “Highlighting over contouring is also on trend.”


The future will continue to be about a balanced face, such as a defined brow balancing out a lip. Schlip of Physicians Formula noted, “The look is made-up, but looks completely natural—think supermodels of the 90’s. The strong eye look will still be hot as well.”


Aslanian of Kline & Company told Happi that creativity and expression through color cosmetics will only grow into 2018.


“There is no one size fits all when it comes to the application of color cosmetics. We will continue to see the movement toward more natural beauty with no makeup, yet, millennials will continue to follow and even set trends with specific looks,” she said.


All in all, exploring the full spectrum of color is what will continue to propel the cosmetics sector. According to makeup artist Scibelli: “I think we’ll continue to see even more consumers taking chances on brighter, shimmery and metallic eyeshadow and eyeliner colors. As for 2017 lips, we’re seeing a change from a statement red lip to more berries, plums and burgundies. Personally, I still love a classic red.” 
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