Formulary

Matte Lipstick Trio

Released by Croda

March 1, 2017


Phase A
Seatons Castor Oil BP – Extra Virgin (Croda) (Ricinus Communic (Castor) Seed Oil)
5.00/5.00/5.00
Arlamol LST (Croda) (PPG-3 Isostearyl methyl ether)
7.00/7.00/7.00
Crodamol ISIS (Croda) (Isostearyl isostearate)
6.00/6.00/6.00
Super Sterol Liquid (Croda) (C10-30 Cholesterol/lanosterol esters)
3.00/3.00/3.00
Liquiwax PolyIPL (Croda) (Stearyl/PPG-3 myristyl ether dimer dilinoleate (and) beeswax)
8.00/8.00/8.00
OleoCraft LP-20 (Croda) (Polyamide-8)
2.00/2.00/2.00
Candellila Wax (Strahl & Pitsch) (Euphorbia Cerifera (Candelilla) Wax)
10.00/10.00/10.00
Carnauba Wax (Strahl & Pitsch (Copernicia Cerifera (Carnauba) Wax)
2.00/2.00/2.00
Micro Wax 150 (Frank B. Ross) (Microcrystaline ax)
5.00/5.00/5.00
Ozokerite Wax (Strahl & Pitsch) (Ozokerite)
3.50/3.50/3.50
Syncrowax BB4 (Croda) (Synthetic beeswax)
3.00/3.00/3.00

Phase B
Cromollient DP3A (Croda) (Di-PPG-3 myristyl ether adipate)
14.00/14.00/14.00
Titanium dioxide USP (Brenntag) (Titanium dioxide Cl 77891)
4.00/7.90/4.00
Red 7 Ca Lake (Sun Chemical) (D&C Red 7 Cl 15850)
8.00/0.10/5.50
Suncroma FD&C Yellow No 5 (Sun Chem.) (FD&C Yellow 5 Cl 19140)
X/0.50/X
Suncroma D&C Red No 6 (Sun Chem.) (D&C Red 6 Cl 15850)
X/3.50/X
Suncroma Red Iron Oxides (Sun Chemical) (Iron oxides Cl 77491)
X/X/X
Suncroma Black Iron Oxides (Sun Chem.) (Iron oxides Cl 77499)
X/X/X
Suncroma FD&C Blue No.1 (Sun Chem.) (D&C blue 1 Cl 42090)
X/X/2.50

Phase C
Solaveil XT-300 (Croda)(Titanium dioxide Cl 77891(&) caprylic/capric triglyceride (&) polyhydroxystearic acid (&) stearic acid (&) alumina)
9.00/9.00/9.00

Phase D
SXI-5 (Miyoshi America)(Mica (&) silica (&) dimethicone)
8.00/8.00/8.00
Volulip (Sederma) ( Cetearyl ethylhexanoate (&) sorbitan isostearate (&) portulaca pilosa extract (&) sucrose cocoate (&) palmitoyl tripeptide-38)
1.50/1.50/1.50
Mango GRAS (Orchidia) Fragrance ORC1601122
1.00/1.00/1.00

Procedure
Add part A to the main beaker and melt to 85-95°C. Run powdered pigments on a micropulveriser with TiO2 to break down particle size before adding pigment dispersion media. Once micropulverised, add DP3A & pass to a roller mill 3X on setting #3 or until uniform & no undispersed pigments is observed, this will be part B. When dispersion is completed, part C is premixed with part B. Add BC to the main beaker and start propeller mixing until uniform. Caution on mixing speed to minimize air entrapment. Maintain temperature at 85-95°C until part D is completely added. After part BC is added, maintain mixing speed & temperature and add part D slowly and individually. Caution on adding powders to the batch to avoid aeration. After part D is added, maintain temperature and keep mixing for at least half an hour more until uniform. When batch is uniform, pour into desired componentry. Fill temperature: 80-85°C. To prevent air bubbles & filling difficulties, vacuum compressor can be used to eliminate aeration, or give the batch a hold time of at least half an hour while maintaining temp. without mixing.

Properties
Appearance­—Anhydrous colored stable sticks; Stability—1 month at 50°C & 12 weeks at RT, 40°C, 45°C & 5 x 24 hour freeze-thaw cycles; Texture Analyzer (Shade: Coral): [Ave Readings] Hardness (g): 321.173 gr F Brittleness(mm): 0.52mm Stiffness (g/mm): 557.64 g/mm.

More Information
Croda www.crodausa.com

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