Biosynthetic human protein (polypeptide/oligopeptide) growth factors were introduced to the cosmetic field in the 1990’s by a plastic surgeon, Gregory L.(Bays) Brown, MD, who later founded RéVive Skincare in 1997. Abundance of previous studies, however, attested polypeptides, most of them hydrophilic, are too big to penetrate the hydrophobic stratum corneum (the epidermal keratin layer) or to get efficiently delivered to the deeper layers of epidermis or dermis of the intact skin.
Therefore, to overcome the skin barrier problem and effect skin regeneration by growth factors like EGF(epidermal growth factor), Brown at the time and others later seemed to have resorted to (pre-) treatment with keratolytic AHA (alpha-hydroxy acid) and/or lipid-mobilizing surfactants/penetration- enhancers combination to peel off or loosen up the hydrophobic compact keratin layer so as for a growth factor to be able to more easily reach the live cells residing underneath the keratin layer.
However, those chaotropic agents/conditions to skin inevitably bring about either compatibility issues with most growth factors and/or skin irritation problems due to GFs’ labile nature of complex 3-D- dependent bioactivity and/or compromise with skin barrier functions in those chaotic formulations.
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