Philip Pelusi, Hair care expert09.26.16
The leaves will not be the only thing changing color this fall season. Hair color goes gold, texture leads the way for hair cutting and the resurgence of big hair all contribute to an exciting season of hair trends for Fall 2016. But other ground-breaking trends this season are ingredient oriented; USDA Certified Organic Jamaican Black Castor Oil, Organic Quinoa Oil and Organic Baobab Oil and more are the headliners here. So get ready to transition into Fall 2016 with the latest hair trends and the innovative color preserving, texture controlling and volume producing ingredients that support them.
Texture Driven Cut
The big haircut trend for Fall 2016 is not based on one particular shape but instead on texture. This season the Texture Driven Cut is what is in vogue. So different than with other haircut trends, the Texture Driven Cut allows the clients’ texture to dictate the shape and lines of the haircut instead of the shape being created and then nudging the texture to do your bidding. The idea is to create a cut tailor made for their texture resulting in as little as possible hands-on styling work to produce the look.
This is where my exclusive The Volumetric® Cutting System come into play. A Volumetric® haircut is a texture driven cut. I created this organic cutting system to take into consideration the following factors: texture, density, growth patterns, fall lines and the shape of the head. In other words, we are creating a custom cut for each and every client. A much different idea than learning haircut A or haircut B and then trying to get that cut to fit a particular individual. Instead it is a series of cutting techniques that like an equation can be linked together to get one great final result. Hair styles more easily, lasts longer throughout the day and grows out more gracefully. Also, these techniques are a much better way to produce more consistent haircuts and a much more proficient way to teach cutting skills.
Each cut should be individually created, but there are some similar themes to know about this season’s Texture Driven Cut trend. For one, the length is generally below the chin to above the shoulders and really no longer than that. Also there is a fringe area or bangs created. Bangs that can be worn down or side-swept but most importantly allowed to take their own natural texture. They should not be smoothed by a flat iron nor curled with a curling iron. That is the key to looking stylish this season; hair should be allowed to be its natural texture and look as if as little styling as possible went into the style retaining the client’s natural waves and movement of the hair. Some stylish stars wearing this look are singer Taylor Swift and models Alex Chung and Mica Arganaraz.
Of course each customer needs a customized hair product prescription to ensure the success of low-maintenance hairstyling. We recommend a P2 by Philip Pelusi Shampoo and Conditioner to support the client’s texture and condition. Relatively damage-free hair should require the moisturizing benefits of P2 Moisturesheen’s honey and Cassia Angustifolia Seed Polysaccharide and P2 Ceramide Complex, along with UV-protection and botanical antioxidants. Color treated hair will benefit from Fade de Phy’s color protective UV absorbers, antioxidants and free radical scavengers tailored specifically toward maintenance of hair color. Age de Phy presents an anti-ageing package for the hair by combining UV absorbers and antioxidants with moisturizing alpha hydroxy fruit acids and betaine from sugar beets along with phytokeratins for hair while stimulating a healthy scalp with ceramides and peptides.
This gets the style and texture off in the right direction. Next, the client needs a product to allow the hair to air-dry successfully. We recommend our P2 Potion. This styling groom adapts to anybody’s texture; detangling, smoothing and eliminating frizz without adding any weight and air-drying or diffuse-drying to soft, full, fluffy finish perfect for the Texture Driven Cut. As with any P2 product, Potion is fortified with protective antioxidant herbal ingredients, as well as Baobab Seed Oil and moisture binding ceramide II, phytokeratins, which bind essential moisture, protecting against heat damage throughout the styling process.
And if the texture needs a boost, we recommend crossing over to our Tela Beauty Organic line for this. We think of Tela as the organic extension of our original and always evolving P2 product line so it’s natural for our stylists to jump between our two lines; one compliments the other. Try adding a small amount of our Tela Curl of My Dreams Serum with USDA Certified Organic Quinoa to your P2 Potion application. This gives waves and curls a boost with soft but long lasting definition. Also its proprietary Tela Hydrating Blend, comprised of Organic Marshmallow Root, Mountain Ladybell, Plantain, Reishi Mushroom and Solomon’s Seal, give hair weightless moisture and help control frizz.
Last, hair needs some finishing. For the Texture Driven Cut, hair might need a bit a dressing after it dries and perhaps touched-up during the day depending on what elements to which the hair was exposed. We recommend Tela Frizz Buster Anti-Frizz Dry Texture Spray. This incredible spray eliminates frizz on contact on any texture. It should be lightly misted onto the hair and then finger styled to perfect the look. It contains one of the most cutting edge organic ingredients; the USDA Certified Organic Jamaican Black Castor Oil. Such an interesting ingredient, the castor plant is organically grown in Jamaica then its seeds are roasted to a dark color and give off a black ash. The seeds are then cold-pressed to retains its nutrients of Vitamin E and Omega 9 Fatty Acids.
Adding to the nutritional benefits and anti-frizz effects, we added the unique ingredients USDA Certified Organic Quinoa Oil and Organic Baobab Seed Oil. Instantly absorbed, these oils are cold-pressed in the same manner as the Organic Black Castor Oil and also impart 8 essential amino acids and Vitamin E and Vitamin D3 and 5 Fatty Acids respectively. Hair looks glossy yet feels light and airy with a bit of control.
Golden Flax Hair Color
And for hair color for this season, the temperatures will be cooling but hair color will be warming up. Golden Flax Hair Color is the big color trend for Fall 2016. As the name of this trend describes, hair is colored to a light, yellow golden hue ala the color of flax seeds. The base color of the hair is brought up to a light golden blonde, then blonde highlights of both cool and warm tones are added throughout the entire head taking on a natural, soft appearance. Highlights are noticeable but never thick or chunky. Star such as actresses Elizabeth Olsen and Saoirse Ronan along with singer Beyoncé and currently wearing this look.
One of the biggest challenges of this look is color preservation; especially after hair has suffered summer UV Ray and chlorine or salt water exposure making hair more porous. This results in a more difficult job of retaining the golden tone this trend requires. To accomplish this, we recommend starting in the color bowl. We add our new, totally uniqueTela Beauty Organics Color Lock Treatment. We mix Tela Color Lock into the client’s actual color formula thereby depositing its’ color preserving ingredients into the hair shaft along with the color molecules while the cuticle is open.
Tela Color Lock deposits cutting edge conditioning ingredients that buffer residual alkalinity, helping further protect the hair by neutralizing the residual “ammonia footprint” left behind by the color formula. Specifically, it’s revolutionary Coconut based Micro-emulsion helps to buffer the damaging effects of the color formula itself to the cuticle and the cortex. Tela Color Lock helps greatly improve the overall condition of hair. Since this new products’ release, we have received incredible feedback from stylists and clients alike remarking on how beautiful the hair looks and feels and how much more additional shine they have since adding this to the color application.
Another cornerstone ingredient of this product is our Patent Pending Hydro-Charged Pelusi Ceramide Complex. This proprietary blend of plant derived ceramides mimics the ceramides in the hair so when deposited during the color application greatly contribute to the guest’s improved condition and color retention. Also, a specialized Canola Seed Oil conditioner creates an average of 70% improvement in overall conditioning and a 10% increase in shine while helping improve the color deposit. Organic Baobab Oil, a cold-pressed oil rich with Vitamin D3 and Fatty Acids Palmitic, Linoleic, Oleic, Alpha Linolenic and Stearic Acids, mimics hair’s own lipids and nourishes and moisturizes hair and scalp without weighing down hair’s volume.
Last, Tela Color Lock deposits hair-protective UVA and UVB absorbers to help protect the hair fiber from damaging UV rays. A patented Board Spectrum UVA/UVB Absorber provides long lasting substantive protection resulting in 58% - 320% greater effectiveness than its competition. It helps protect hair color and preserves hair’s integrity from fading due to sun exposure that causes a loss in strength, while helping retard the decomposition of Tryptophan, a key amino acid, that when exposed to UV radiation, would lead to disulfide bond breakage and result in color loss and breakage.
A two-ounce take-home version can be purchased and added into the clients existing conditioning routine to continually feed the hair these color preserving ingredients. A smart recommendation for any hair color client to go along with their Golden Flax Color for this Fall season.
And although Tela Color Lock does produce amazing color preserving results, this is also predicated on the color client cleansing with the recommended shampoo followed by a color protecting conditioner and styling products as well. We, of course, educate all of our customers on a full system of products not only to retain their color investment but also to help them be able to recreated their style at home.
Ultra Voluminous Hair
And as far as styling trends go for Fall 2106, bigger is definitely better. Full voluminous hair of any texture is in. Everything from naturally curly thick coarse textures to long fine to medium textured hair set in rollers and teased mile high are trending. The size and scale of hair does give a nod to the 80’s but unlike the 80’s today’s big hair styles are still on the softer, more natural looking and feeling side. Nothing spiked or crispy. Hair has a soft lush finish.
One of tricks to getting today’s Ultra Voluminous Hair trend, is to build hair’s volume from inside the strand instead of propping up the hair by coating the outside with a firm holding resin. The more traditional or old-school ways of building volume is to coat the outside of the strand with products containing resin that will dry crispy and hard making the hair look and feel unnatural and outdated. Not that hair sprays and mousse don’t have a place in today’s styling, but it is minimized. I feel they will always play a role in our hair care line but in addition we’ve created both a treatment and a follow up product to build texture and body from inside the hair strand to meet today’s style needs to create a flexible yet still voluminous style.
Thus, the creation of our Tela Beauty Organics Dream Big! Treatment and Tela Dream Big! Serum. This dynamic duo deposits a myriad of texture building ingredients that give hair a starch-like feeling but without the outdated crunchy look of a gel or hairspray. For any client that is looking for bigger more voluminous hair we first recommend they come into the salon for a Tela Dream Big! Treatment. This formaldehyde-free, zero-fume treatment is done under the precise procedure and application techniques of a trained stylist.
It saturates the cuticle and cortex of the hair with USDA Certified Organic Baobab Protein, 3 Gluten-free proteins; Hydrolyzed Corn, Wheat and Soy Proteins that duplicates the structure of hair’s natural keratin, plus Philip’s proprietary Tela Regenerating Blend consisting of Burdock, Horsetail, Reishi Mushroom, Red Sage, Sprouted Soy all of which strengthen and build tremendous body. Not only do these ingredients build the body this style demands but they do double and sometimes triple duty as antioxidants the help protect hair color from fading, help protect from heat styling damage and create a smooth shiny surface making hair color appear healthy and glossy.
The stylist needs to follow our step by step application process to get the desired result. The active steam of a curling or flat iron plays a role in the penetration and activation of the ingredients in Tela Beauty Organics Dream Big! Treatment. Dream Big! Treatment does not open the cuticle but actually seals and rebonds the cuticle layers for a smoother and less frizzy result. This semi-permanent treatment does not alter the stronger disulfide bonds in the hair but instead alters the salt and hydrogen bonds in hair’s cortex that support the hair’s keratin fibers while infusing substantive texture building ingredients that last in the hair approximately 6 – 8 weeks on the first application. Subsequent treatments have a cumulative effect, making the results last longer, ranging from 8 – 12 weeks depending on how frequently the hair is shampooed, what products are used on the hair at home and how quickly the hair grows.
The Tela Dream Big! Serum should then be applied every time the hair is styled from wet to dry at home to give the hair a mini dose of the treatment ingredients. This helps to constantly reinforce the treatment effects on the hair and aid in styling. An additional product or products can be layered on top of the serum of desired but often the Tela Dream Big! Serum works just great on its own.
For product recommendation and more information contact us at Tela Beauty Organics by Philip Pelusi at either philip@telabeautyorganics.comor tela@telanyc.com.
Texture Driven Cut
The big haircut trend for Fall 2016 is not based on one particular shape but instead on texture. This season the Texture Driven Cut is what is in vogue. So different than with other haircut trends, the Texture Driven Cut allows the clients’ texture to dictate the shape and lines of the haircut instead of the shape being created and then nudging the texture to do your bidding. The idea is to create a cut tailor made for their texture resulting in as little as possible hands-on styling work to produce the look.
This is where my exclusive The Volumetric® Cutting System come into play. A Volumetric® haircut is a texture driven cut. I created this organic cutting system to take into consideration the following factors: texture, density, growth patterns, fall lines and the shape of the head. In other words, we are creating a custom cut for each and every client. A much different idea than learning haircut A or haircut B and then trying to get that cut to fit a particular individual. Instead it is a series of cutting techniques that like an equation can be linked together to get one great final result. Hair styles more easily, lasts longer throughout the day and grows out more gracefully. Also, these techniques are a much better way to produce more consistent haircuts and a much more proficient way to teach cutting skills.
Each cut should be individually created, but there are some similar themes to know about this season’s Texture Driven Cut trend. For one, the length is generally below the chin to above the shoulders and really no longer than that. Also there is a fringe area or bangs created. Bangs that can be worn down or side-swept but most importantly allowed to take their own natural texture. They should not be smoothed by a flat iron nor curled with a curling iron. That is the key to looking stylish this season; hair should be allowed to be its natural texture and look as if as little styling as possible went into the style retaining the client’s natural waves and movement of the hair. Some stylish stars wearing this look are singer Taylor Swift and models Alex Chung and Mica Arganaraz.
Of course each customer needs a customized hair product prescription to ensure the success of low-maintenance hairstyling. We recommend a P2 by Philip Pelusi Shampoo and Conditioner to support the client’s texture and condition. Relatively damage-free hair should require the moisturizing benefits of P2 Moisturesheen’s honey and Cassia Angustifolia Seed Polysaccharide and P2 Ceramide Complex, along with UV-protection and botanical antioxidants. Color treated hair will benefit from Fade de Phy’s color protective UV absorbers, antioxidants and free radical scavengers tailored specifically toward maintenance of hair color. Age de Phy presents an anti-ageing package for the hair by combining UV absorbers and antioxidants with moisturizing alpha hydroxy fruit acids and betaine from sugar beets along with phytokeratins for hair while stimulating a healthy scalp with ceramides and peptides.
This gets the style and texture off in the right direction. Next, the client needs a product to allow the hair to air-dry successfully. We recommend our P2 Potion. This styling groom adapts to anybody’s texture; detangling, smoothing and eliminating frizz without adding any weight and air-drying or diffuse-drying to soft, full, fluffy finish perfect for the Texture Driven Cut. As with any P2 product, Potion is fortified with protective antioxidant herbal ingredients, as well as Baobab Seed Oil and moisture binding ceramide II, phytokeratins, which bind essential moisture, protecting against heat damage throughout the styling process.
And if the texture needs a boost, we recommend crossing over to our Tela Beauty Organic line for this. We think of Tela as the organic extension of our original and always evolving P2 product line so it’s natural for our stylists to jump between our two lines; one compliments the other. Try adding a small amount of our Tela Curl of My Dreams Serum with USDA Certified Organic Quinoa to your P2 Potion application. This gives waves and curls a boost with soft but long lasting definition. Also its proprietary Tela Hydrating Blend, comprised of Organic Marshmallow Root, Mountain Ladybell, Plantain, Reishi Mushroom and Solomon’s Seal, give hair weightless moisture and help control frizz.
Last, hair needs some finishing. For the Texture Driven Cut, hair might need a bit a dressing after it dries and perhaps touched-up during the day depending on what elements to which the hair was exposed. We recommend Tela Frizz Buster Anti-Frizz Dry Texture Spray. This incredible spray eliminates frizz on contact on any texture. It should be lightly misted onto the hair and then finger styled to perfect the look. It contains one of the most cutting edge organic ingredients; the USDA Certified Organic Jamaican Black Castor Oil. Such an interesting ingredient, the castor plant is organically grown in Jamaica then its seeds are roasted to a dark color and give off a black ash. The seeds are then cold-pressed to retains its nutrients of Vitamin E and Omega 9 Fatty Acids.
Adding to the nutritional benefits and anti-frizz effects, we added the unique ingredients USDA Certified Organic Quinoa Oil and Organic Baobab Seed Oil. Instantly absorbed, these oils are cold-pressed in the same manner as the Organic Black Castor Oil and also impart 8 essential amino acids and Vitamin E and Vitamin D3 and 5 Fatty Acids respectively. Hair looks glossy yet feels light and airy with a bit of control.
Golden Flax Hair Color
And for hair color for this season, the temperatures will be cooling but hair color will be warming up. Golden Flax Hair Color is the big color trend for Fall 2016. As the name of this trend describes, hair is colored to a light, yellow golden hue ala the color of flax seeds. The base color of the hair is brought up to a light golden blonde, then blonde highlights of both cool and warm tones are added throughout the entire head taking on a natural, soft appearance. Highlights are noticeable but never thick or chunky. Star such as actresses Elizabeth Olsen and Saoirse Ronan along with singer Beyoncé and currently wearing this look.
One of the biggest challenges of this look is color preservation; especially after hair has suffered summer UV Ray and chlorine or salt water exposure making hair more porous. This results in a more difficult job of retaining the golden tone this trend requires. To accomplish this, we recommend starting in the color bowl. We add our new, totally uniqueTela Beauty Organics Color Lock Treatment. We mix Tela Color Lock into the client’s actual color formula thereby depositing its’ color preserving ingredients into the hair shaft along with the color molecules while the cuticle is open.
Tela Color Lock deposits cutting edge conditioning ingredients that buffer residual alkalinity, helping further protect the hair by neutralizing the residual “ammonia footprint” left behind by the color formula. Specifically, it’s revolutionary Coconut based Micro-emulsion helps to buffer the damaging effects of the color formula itself to the cuticle and the cortex. Tela Color Lock helps greatly improve the overall condition of hair. Since this new products’ release, we have received incredible feedback from stylists and clients alike remarking on how beautiful the hair looks and feels and how much more additional shine they have since adding this to the color application.
Another cornerstone ingredient of this product is our Patent Pending Hydro-Charged Pelusi Ceramide Complex. This proprietary blend of plant derived ceramides mimics the ceramides in the hair so when deposited during the color application greatly contribute to the guest’s improved condition and color retention. Also, a specialized Canola Seed Oil conditioner creates an average of 70% improvement in overall conditioning and a 10% increase in shine while helping improve the color deposit. Organic Baobab Oil, a cold-pressed oil rich with Vitamin D3 and Fatty Acids Palmitic, Linoleic, Oleic, Alpha Linolenic and Stearic Acids, mimics hair’s own lipids and nourishes and moisturizes hair and scalp without weighing down hair’s volume.
Last, Tela Color Lock deposits hair-protective UVA and UVB absorbers to help protect the hair fiber from damaging UV rays. A patented Board Spectrum UVA/UVB Absorber provides long lasting substantive protection resulting in 58% - 320% greater effectiveness than its competition. It helps protect hair color and preserves hair’s integrity from fading due to sun exposure that causes a loss in strength, while helping retard the decomposition of Tryptophan, a key amino acid, that when exposed to UV radiation, would lead to disulfide bond breakage and result in color loss and breakage.
A two-ounce take-home version can be purchased and added into the clients existing conditioning routine to continually feed the hair these color preserving ingredients. A smart recommendation for any hair color client to go along with their Golden Flax Color for this Fall season.
And although Tela Color Lock does produce amazing color preserving results, this is also predicated on the color client cleansing with the recommended shampoo followed by a color protecting conditioner and styling products as well. We, of course, educate all of our customers on a full system of products not only to retain their color investment but also to help them be able to recreated their style at home.
Ultra Voluminous Hair
And as far as styling trends go for Fall 2106, bigger is definitely better. Full voluminous hair of any texture is in. Everything from naturally curly thick coarse textures to long fine to medium textured hair set in rollers and teased mile high are trending. The size and scale of hair does give a nod to the 80’s but unlike the 80’s today’s big hair styles are still on the softer, more natural looking and feeling side. Nothing spiked or crispy. Hair has a soft lush finish.
One of tricks to getting today’s Ultra Voluminous Hair trend, is to build hair’s volume from inside the strand instead of propping up the hair by coating the outside with a firm holding resin. The more traditional or old-school ways of building volume is to coat the outside of the strand with products containing resin that will dry crispy and hard making the hair look and feel unnatural and outdated. Not that hair sprays and mousse don’t have a place in today’s styling, but it is minimized. I feel they will always play a role in our hair care line but in addition we’ve created both a treatment and a follow up product to build texture and body from inside the hair strand to meet today’s style needs to create a flexible yet still voluminous style.
Thus, the creation of our Tela Beauty Organics Dream Big! Treatment and Tela Dream Big! Serum. This dynamic duo deposits a myriad of texture building ingredients that give hair a starch-like feeling but without the outdated crunchy look of a gel or hairspray. For any client that is looking for bigger more voluminous hair we first recommend they come into the salon for a Tela Dream Big! Treatment. This formaldehyde-free, zero-fume treatment is done under the precise procedure and application techniques of a trained stylist.
It saturates the cuticle and cortex of the hair with USDA Certified Organic Baobab Protein, 3 Gluten-free proteins; Hydrolyzed Corn, Wheat and Soy Proteins that duplicates the structure of hair’s natural keratin, plus Philip’s proprietary Tela Regenerating Blend consisting of Burdock, Horsetail, Reishi Mushroom, Red Sage, Sprouted Soy all of which strengthen and build tremendous body. Not only do these ingredients build the body this style demands but they do double and sometimes triple duty as antioxidants the help protect hair color from fading, help protect from heat styling damage and create a smooth shiny surface making hair color appear healthy and glossy.
The stylist needs to follow our step by step application process to get the desired result. The active steam of a curling or flat iron plays a role in the penetration and activation of the ingredients in Tela Beauty Organics Dream Big! Treatment. Dream Big! Treatment does not open the cuticle but actually seals and rebonds the cuticle layers for a smoother and less frizzy result. This semi-permanent treatment does not alter the stronger disulfide bonds in the hair but instead alters the salt and hydrogen bonds in hair’s cortex that support the hair’s keratin fibers while infusing substantive texture building ingredients that last in the hair approximately 6 – 8 weeks on the first application. Subsequent treatments have a cumulative effect, making the results last longer, ranging from 8 – 12 weeks depending on how frequently the hair is shampooed, what products are used on the hair at home and how quickly the hair grows.
The Tela Dream Big! Serum should then be applied every time the hair is styled from wet to dry at home to give the hair a mini dose of the treatment ingredients. This helps to constantly reinforce the treatment effects on the hair and aid in styling. An additional product or products can be layered on top of the serum of desired but often the Tela Dream Big! Serum works just great on its own.
For product recommendation and more information contact us at Tela Beauty Organics by Philip Pelusi at either philip@telabeautyorganics.comor tela@telanyc.com.