According to data from Information Resources Inc. (IRI) hair styling gel/mousse sales rose just 0.7% to $1.1 billion in US supermarkets, drugstores, mass market retailers, military commissaries and select club and dollar retail chains for the 52 weeks ended Dec. 1, 2019. However, hair spray/spritz sales slipped 2.5% to $652.2 million.
In the US prestige beauty category, hairstyling product sales increased 6% to more than $252 million for the 12 months ended Nov. 30, 2019, according to The NPD Group. Hair gel sales jumped 14% to $18.4 million, hair mousse/foam increased 6% to $17.4 million, hair spray stayed flat at $65.8 million and sales of other styling products rose 8% to $150.9 million.
With New Year celebrations behind us and resolutions for better health and wellness in full effect, more consumers are expecting healthier hair styling product options, according to industry experts.
Amber Hope Robertson, lead international educator for ABBA Pure Performance Haircare, commented, “Honestly, 2020 is all about maintaining the health, integrity and overall wellness of hair. Beautifully conditioned and healthy hair is what we all want. However, from a style perspective, there are changes coming!”
According to Robertson, “We saw the trend toward sleek styles in past years, but we’re moving away from those looks and toward a more natural texture and full-on body/volume we saw in the late 1970s and early 1980s.”
Robertson told Happi that the trend is definitely for less polished looks with a very natural finish that shows off healthy locks and more natural texture.
To improve strength and reduce breakage, Robertson recommends the award-winning ABBA Complete All-In-One Leave-in Spray.
“It reduces frizz, improves elasticity and provides thermal protection from heat styling,” she said, “while Abyssinian, coconut and watermelon seed oil leave hair soft and shiny without weighing it down. In other words, it’s a win-win for everyone with color-treated hair.”
Another texture trend on the scene is “Disco” waves. According to hair care expert Philip Pelusi, a frequent Happi.com columnist, these waves take many forms.
“From natural waves and curls, to curls set on hot rollers, to iron-crimped waves, to finger waves, this trend can be worn on any length or density hair type but works best on shoulder length or longer hair,” he explained. “And whether the curl is natural or is artificially created via heat tools, frizz and heat damage are two things we can help avoid with an injection of some skin care ingredients into the hair styling routine.”
Pelusi points out that hydrating skin care oils are everywhere these days. A hair care hydrating equivalent is the P2 Polish and P2 Brilliant Hair. Both contain the company’s proprietary Pelusi Bio Polymer Complex consisting of organic baobab seed protein and organic baobab seed oil.
Stylist Giannandrea Marongiu, who works with A-list celebs such as Reese Witherspoon, Karlie Kloss and Cameron Diaz, relies on products like MOP Lemongrass Volume Whip and MOP C-System Firm Finish Hairspray to create the trendsetting looks that turn heads from the runway to the red carpet, and he’s excited about what he calls a new era in hairdressing for 2020.
Marongiu remembers creating wet looks for designer Helmut Lang in the 1990s. Well, guess what? They’re back. He told Happi, “I’ve been using a lot of MOP Basil Mint Firm Hold Gel to create wet looks for the red carpet and fashion editorials.”
Thom Priano, celebrity men’s stylist and co-founder of R+Co, New York, said texturizers continue to be one of the hottest trends in styling products, but consumers are asking for products with multiple benefits.
“For instance, texturizing sprays now provide oil-absorbing abilities, protect hair from UV rays and are infused with nutrients that nourish the hair, all while providing high-tech, all-day styles,” he explained.
Redken Global Creative Director Guido Palau capitalized on dramatic haircuts at Givenchy’s SS20 PFW Show. He explained, “We’ve cut some of the models’ hair here at the Givenchy show to give them a tomboyish, easy look. I’ve used Redken’s new Extreme Play Safe leave in to heat protect the hair while blow-drying, leaving some of the texture to keep it natural, easy and cool. The looks are effortless, which gives off a French vibe.”
Consumers continue to style their hair with heat, even though they know it damages tresses.
“Right now, we are seeing a huge trend in heat protection and different ways to prep the hair before heat styling. The long hair styling trend is also becoming heavily influenced by hair accessories such as headbands, berets and scrunchies. The longer the hair, the more you can play with your look day to day,” noted Dr. Rocio Rivera, vice president and head of scientific communications at L’Oréal Paris, New York.
According to Rivera, L’Oréal Paris just launched Dream Lengths, a complete treatment line that can help those with long, damaged hair.
Also new in the mass market, Procter & Gamble Hair Care recently rolled out numerous innovations from its leading brands. Most are extensions of the traditional hairspray or styling gel.
For example, Head & Shoulders recently launched its Supreme Collection, endorsed by the Skin Health Alliance and designed to restore the skin’s natural, healthy balance to unlock the best version of hair and scalp. Formulated with naturally-derived, skin care-inspired ingredients like argan oil and vitamin E, the collection also includes scalp scare active zinc pyrithione to address itch, dryness and irritation. For hairstyling treatments, the Hydrating Scalp Serum includes menthol and reinvigorates the scalp between washes by increasing scalp moisturization.
Meanwhile, Head & Shoulders Thickening Hair Mist plumps up hair and fights breakage to promote a fuller appearance, while helping to maintain a healthy scalp. After showering, consumers should apply the mist directly to their roots and scalp.
P&G’s Herbal Essences’ Bio:renew line combines botanical science with hair styling products to resupply hair with antioxidants to keep hair healthy and protected. According to the brand, the Bio:renew formulas, which are PETA-approved and cruelty-free, combine botanicals, healthy antioxidants and “intoxicating” fragrances to leave hair looking, feeling and smelling amazing. In partnership with the Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew, a world leader in plant science, worked with Herbal Essences on the collection. Kew’s 260 years of scientific expertise in plants joins the brand’s almost 50-year history in hair care.
The Herbal Essences Bio:renew Potent Aloe Collection is color-safe and includes two new misting oil treatments and one curl crème, all with Bio:renew botanicals. The lineup contains responsibly-sourced, naturally-derived aloe vera from Mexico that is rich in vitamins, polysaccharides and essential moisture.
Herbal Essences Hemp Seed Oil + Aloe Hair Mist Oil utilizes dual-phase technology to moisturize hair for instant shine, frizz control and smooth manageable locks.
Indian women have long applied castor oil the night before washing their hair, with the belief that leaving the oil in their locks for hours gives it time to deeply penetrate and restore hair. Pantene has harnessed that knowledge in its new Sulfate-Free Overnight Repair Serum. According to the company, this formulation acts as a quickly-absorbing treatment to repair and revive tired strands overnight to reveal a morning shine.
At Unilever, both Dove and Suave are launching hairstyling products. New Dove Amplified Textures is said to enhance the natural beauty of textured hair. This range, which contains a “unique Dove Moisture Amplifying blend,” nourishes and cares for all kinds of coils, curls and waves. Dove Amplified Textures will be exclusively available at Target this month and, beginning April 2020, it will be available at all food, drug and mass retailers. Products include a Twist in Moisture Shaping Cream, Shine and Moisture Finishing Gel and Moisture Spa Recovery Mask.
Axe’s hair tins are getting an innovative look and feel with new Axe Styling Texturizing Cream. The new formula is now made with natural beeswax to deliver hold without leaving a sticky residue on hands, according to the company.
Also noteworthy at Unilever is the Suave Professionals for Natural Hair Refresher Spray. A new addition to the Natural Hair collection, which launched last year, the spritz is said to bring curls back to life with frizz reduction, while revitalizing curl definition and enhancing curl pattern on non-wash days.
Target is having success with the new Emerge collection, a hair care line designed for the natural girl who’s just as innovative as her coily, curly and wavy styles. Whether it’s braids, twist-outs or a well-defined wash-n-go, formulas help women get the hairstyle they crave, according to Emerge. The moisture-rich products are formulated without sulfates, parabens, phthalates, silicones, mineral oil, petrolatum and dyes.
At the forefront is the Emerge Style Goals Gel. This alcohol-free formula, infused with pequi oil, adds definition to curls. A moisture-rich formula provides a medium hold that doesn’t feel sticky or hard, according to the company.
On the Rise
Prestige and salon brands are upping the ante for hair styling products in 2020. Moroccanoil, known for its smoothing SKUs, added a Moroccanoil Root Boost and Volumizing Mousse.
For full body volume and lift, Moroccanoil Root Boost creates a strong texture at the roots before styling with heat. Infused with antioxidant-rich argan oil, this root lifter adds volume to medium to fine hair for long-lasting texture, body and movement. The high-performance formula helps control static and provides a natural-looking finish, according to the company.
Moroccanoil Volumizing Mousse gives medium to fine hair instant volume and lift. This weightless styler builds body and creates lift without stickiness. The flake-free formula with medium, flexible hold provides a “memory” factor, for natural-looking styles that last longer. It is infused with antioxidant-rich argan oil and an anti-static agent for manageable and silky hair.
Salon brand Bellami has teamed up with hairstylist Zach Mesquit for its latest collection. The Bellami Platinum Perfection by Zach Mesquit Hair Serum is a lightweight formula that absorbs instantly to nourish hair and add reflective shine. The serum revitalizes, softens strands and eliminates frizz, while protecting hair from heat damage, oxidation and environmental aggressors. Key ingredients include an exclusive oil complex, vitamin E, silica and diamond powder.
Casually-mussed hair is trending. But many texturizing sprays can be harsh and drying. Enter Bumble and bumble’s Hairdresser’s Invisible Oil Soft Texture Finishing Spray, a lightweight spray that helps nourish dry or damaged hair, while leaving strands with a lightly-tousled finish that’s soft enough to touch.
Key ingredients include the company’s 6-Oil Blend, a signature mix of coconut, argan, macadamia nut, sweet almond, safflower seed and grapeseed oils that immerse hair in featherweight moisture. Meanwhile, silk powder imparts a soft texture, according to the company.
Designed to be an extension of the stylist, Saints & Sinners Divine Style products never clog and the 360-degree spray makes them must-haves, according to the indie beauty brand. The Divine Dry Finish Texture Spray is an invisible, dry finish, multi-tasking spray that adds instant volume, texture, fullness and body.
Divine Flexible Working Hair Spray is an invisible, flexible, humidity-resistant hair spray that stays touchable all day and is the ultimate fast-drying, brushable hold, according to brand.
Also new at Saints & Sinners is Medusa Divine Curl Cream. This SKU addresses multiple types of curls, coils and waves and soothes and smooths erratic texture, adds moisture and shine, eliminates frizz, contains anti-inflammatory scalp conditioners and much more.
Sebastian Professional is launching a lineup based on Dark Oil, one of its bestselling products. The Dark Oil collection consists of four care and styling products that deliver “three times smoother hair” along with the mesmerizing dark oil scent.
All products are infused with a special blend of oils, including argan and jojoba, offering unique benefits including lightweight texture and shine. Dark Oil is a styling oil that replenishes hair from the inside-out to smooth the cuticle and add body. It is created with DiffusX, a self-evaporating technology that disappears into the hair with no oily residue and smooths for up to 48 hours. The products are formulated with sandalwood, cedarwood and argan oil to create a tantalizing scent.
In other news, R+Co’s Bright Shadows Root Touch-Up Spray, out this month, instantly covers regrowth, gray or otherwise, between color appointments—without stickiness, dustiness, or transfer. It features a target actuator for mess-free application as well.
Focus on the Future
Overall, healthy hair is always stylish, according to Robertson of Abba.
“Beautiful hair never goes out of style, and I’ve got a few tricks up my sleeve for doing a big, bouncy blowout,” she said. “My go-to product is Abba Volumizing Root Spray with lemongrass and avocado, which I apply in the crown area to add maximum volume. Then from mid-shafts to ends, I use Abba Volume Foam Styling Mousse. Lemongrass adds volume while agave nectar and grapeseed oil add strength, conditioning and shine. I love it because it’s not starchy and gives me that big, bouncy look everyone wants in a blowout.”
“Extreme, wild and outside the box” are all terms that certainly apply to this Spring and Summer’s hair trends, observed Pelusi. Juxtaposed is the “Zen-like state” of the scalp with its balance created by today’s groundbreaking ingredients—rocket leaf, ivy, whortleberry, probiotics, prebiotics and more.
“These ingredients work their scientific magic balancing the scalp and helping create a healthy scalp environment along with anti-aging benefits,” he said.
Stylist Marongiu sees an increased focus on styling stemming from specific cuts.
“Hair is moving in a stronger, more decisive direction,” he said. “All the cool girls are chopping their hair off,” added the man who gave Kristin Stewart her edgy, short haircut two years ago.
Marongiu also suggests that we haven’t seen the last of the lob.
“It’s very much back in action, but it’s razored out and very edgy,” he said. Recently he cut actress Sharon Stone’s hair for the November 2019 cover of Allure. “It’s a bit shorter than a traditional lob, but it’s very razored out with a lot of texture.”
That’s another trend he sees for 2020: texture and lots of it.
“Waves have always been around but with different variations,” he said. “Now with social media, hairdressers are able to access a lot more education, and they’re getting better.”
High performance and clean products are leading the future trends in hair styling.
According to Priano of R+Co, “Savvy consumers want products that perform well and contain ingredients that they recognize as good for them.”
• Throughout 2019, there’s one thing all Birchbox customers agreed on: the Beauty Protector Protect & Detangle ($23), a leave-in hair detangler spray that smooths out knots while protecting hair from moisture loss, UV damage, heat and color fading. Birchbox took a look at the 2019 numbers, and the wonder-product was the No. 1 best-selling item on Birchbox.com in all 50 states, according to data from the company’s internal database.
Beauty Protector has been a Birchbox exclusive since Birchbox started featuring the small-but-mighty brand in its monthly boxes in 2013. The brand’s popularity shows no signs of slowing down—a Protect & Detangle is sold every 11 minutes, and it remains the most-reviewed product on the site, according to Birchbox.
• Redken recently rolled out its new Styling Society, an exclusive styling collective currently comprised of Redken artists and educators. Chosen based on their existing content creation and styling skills, the collective members will receive custom swag, exclusive brand opportunities and a first look at Redken’s newest styling products as a part of their membership. In return, they’ll post Redken styling news, finished looks, and exclusive moments utilizing #RedkenStylingSociety.