Christine Esposito, Managing Editor03.02.21
Like many other categories, aside from home cleaning and hand sanitizers, 2020 was a tough year for sunscreen makers. The COVID-19 pandemic impacted summer travel plans and many consumers stayed home, following lockdown orders implemented by state governments—and that most certainly contributed to lackluster sales. According to Information Resources, Inc., sales of suntan lotion and oil in US multi-outlets for the 52 weeks ended Dec. 27, 2020 fell 8.7% to $1.17 billion, with unit sales down 12.3% (see chart below).
Yet while Americans may not have taken their usual beach vacations in 2020, they were still putting themselves where the sun’s rays were shining. According to the Outdoor Industry Association, Americans took up new activities in significant numbers in April, May and June of 2020, and among the biggest gainers were running, cycling and hiking—activities that can increase one’s time in the sun. Dermatologists and health experts know that the sun’s damaging rays never take a vacation, and even incremental sun exposure can increase the chances of skin cancer and hasten the signs of aging like fine lines, wrinkles and spots.
It’s a message that consumers need to be told—again and again, and again.
“Every day, all year long, we are exposed to sunlight, and the sunlight during a hike, ride, or walk may be just as if not more intense than during a ‘vacation.’ Sun damage, or photodamage, occurs whenever unprotected skin is exposed to the sun’s ultraviolet (UV) rays, so pandemic or not, when enjoying time outdoors exposed skin is always at risk for sun damage,” said Neutrogena’s Joshua Williams, who handles claims strategy for the J&J band.
According to Williams, being consistent and deliberate when applying sunscreen has known skin health benefits by blocking UVA and UVB rays from penetrating the deepest layers of the skin and it can lower the risk of potentially developing skin cancer.
“From a beauty perspective, a skin care routine that includes consistent SPF coverage helps to maintain your skin’s youthful appearance by slowing down the development of wrinkles, fine lines and hyperpigmentation caused by sun exposure,” he added.
Protection Plus
Sunscreen makers across the category continue to ramp up the aesthetics for consumers who want easy-to-apply products that provide ample protection without trade-offs—especially that tell-tale sign that one’s wearing sunscreen: visible residue.
“Consumers today are looking for sunscreens that offer great protection, but don’t leave behind a visible residue. Use of sunscreen in one’s daily routine is one of the best ways to maintain one’s natural youthful appearance and protect against the accelerated aging that sun exposure can bring,” said Williams.
Neutrogena’s Ultra Sheer line is a favorite among consumers, he insists, as it offers powerful sun protection for all preferences and occasions with lightweight lotions that leave the skin feeling dry to the touch and convenient options for outdoor occasions including sticks and body mist sprays. More recently, Neutrogena rolled out broad spectrum SPF 55 face mist, a new form for the brand.
Sun care sales in mass markets actually declined for the first time in years, according to IRI data.
“We heard our consumers asking specifically for formulas designed for face, which led to the creation of our oil-free face mist product that instantly refreshes with an invisible finish,” said Frank Sun, R&D manager. “Our chemists used our historical expertise in creating Helioplex Technology to deliver the same high Ultra Sheer standards for superior, clinically proven UVA/UVB protection in this new face forward format.”
Getting all consumers to use sun protection on a daily basis would be the dermatology sector’s dream come true, but compliance is often hampered by products that don’t work well with a variety of skin tones.
“SPF is an essential step in skin care and skin health. SPF should be a part of everyone’s skin regimen,” said Christin Powell, co-founder and CEO of Kinship, a clean beauty company.
For Powell, crafting a great facial SPF product requires solving several issues.
“We knew there were several pain points in the SPF market. One, few provide real skin care benefits; Two, few are formulated with safe, clean ingredients that are enjoyable to use; Three, most of the mineral sunscreens do not work for dark skin tones as they leave a significant white cast; and Four, many sunscreens on the market can aggravate acne, causing people to avoid using them and risk sun damage or worse, potential skin cancer down the road. Not a good situation all around,” she said.
Kinship, she insists, has solved those issues with Self Reflect, its mineral-based, moisturizing skin care product with SPF 32 that helps with blemish-prone skin, helps balance the skin microbiome and is sheer, reef safe, non-greasy and leaves skin with a “glowy” finish.
“Aesthetics are extremely important because consumers have such a negative impression of sunscreens—they’re greasy, tacky, too thick, you can’t wash them off and most mineral sunscreens make you look like a ghost. Nobody wants that. We needed this product to be a ‘wow’ in the aesthetic department,” Powell told Happi.
According to Powell, the right blend of natural minerals and turmeric created the product’s peach-pearl color that blends into most skin tones.
In addition, the formulation contains Kinbiome—the brand’s proprietary plant-based pre-probiotic that helps balance the skin’s microbiome and helps with blemish-prone skin—and red raspberry seed oil, which is rich in omega fatty acids for excellent moisturizing and anti-inflammatory properties.
“Kinship Self Reflect SPF upended the sunscreen category. Consumers were quick to embrace Self Reflect and its innovative formula and efficacy that helped solve many of the pain points around SPF,” said Powell, who noted that her brand also educates users how to apply sunscreen, particularly for dark skin tones, for optimum blending without the white cast.
The product gained a fan base and landed on several best facial SPF lists last year. In fact, Powell told Happi that Kinship had to “rapidly adapt to accelerate our production to keep up with the growing demand.” To meet demand, in January Kinship rolled out a value-sized package that is double the size of the original bottle.
“There is so much more opportunity for innovation in SPF and we’re excited by the challenge,” Powell said.
Other brands are addressing SPF products with better aesthetics for a range of skin tones.
AbsoluteJOI, founded by Dr. Anne Beal, MD, recently launched a Daily Hydrating Moisturizing Cream with SPF 40 Mineral Sunscreen. Designed for everyday use by African American women, it combines makeup, moisturizer and SPF into one nourishing product that calms existing acne while protecting against future breakouts. In addition to protecting skin from UV radiation, it blocks up to 59% of HEV blue light and leaves no white cast, according to the brand.
New from Dr. Dennis Gross Skincare is an All-Physical SPF Lightweight Wrinkle Defense SPF 30, which hits Sephora.com this month. This oil-free SPF is formulated with non-nano zinc oxide; lingonberry, which is rich in vitamins C and E; and sea buckthorn, which absorbs high energy blue light. It blends into all skin tones without leaving a pasty residue, and was tested on Fitzpatrick 1-7 with no white cast.
Vichy launched a facial SPF, Capital Soleil Tinted 100% Mineral SPF 60 Sunscreen, described as an ultra-lightweight face lotion with 100% mineral sunscreen UV filters with a sheer tint for a healthy glow. It is water-resistant up to 80 minutes, fragrance-free and suitable for all skin types, even sensitive skin, according to the brand.
Daily Dose
Getting consumers to incorporate daily sun protection is a shared goal among all stakeholders.
“We believe that applying sunscreen should be an everyday, year-long habit as SPF is critical for protecting your skin’s long-term health—regardless of whether you’re heading to the beach or just taking a neighborhood stroll,” said Christina Saikus, senior brand manager at Banana Boat. “Our wide array of products accommodates the unique needs and preferences of our consumers so they can find the right fit for their daily routine.”
Banana Boat’s formulation team created products that address skin sensitive issues. Its Sensitive Mineral Enriched C-Spray SPF 50 is a mineral-enriched product with the convenience of a continuous spray, while Banana Boat Sensitive Lotion SPF 50, which is a 100% mineral lotion, has the National Eczema Association Seal of Acceptance. Both formulations feature hypoallergenic, naturally sourced zinc, no added oils or fragrances, and are made without parabens. According to Saikus, the lotion is a great option for daily use as a part of a morning skin care regimen and the C-spray is perfect for “endurance activities” like hiking and biking.
“Banana Boat’s overarching mission is to protect the fun for families with sun protection that gives them peace of mind to say ‘yes’ to more outdoor activities, and we understand that outdoor fun has looked different for families this year, which is why we’ve honed in our messaging across platforms to focus on activities that don’t require straying far from home,” she said.
Last summer, when families were spending time mostly at home, Banana Boat partnered with Dancing With the Stars’ Allison Holker who shared backyard dance routines and obstacle courses on social media. This summer the brand will launch a new initiative surrounding outdoor family fitness, according to Saikus.
When it comes to family protection, Banana Boat added several SKUs this season. Banana Boat Kid & Baby Mineral and Mineral Enriched products include mineral enriched C-spray in SPF 50 and a lotion SPF 50 lotion. They are reef friendly, tear-free and easy to rub in.
Banana Boat has also formulated products with aesthetics designed to make parents’ lives easier. For example, it has added Banana Boat Kids Mineral Foam, which comes in two variants—a green foam with an apple scent and a blue foam with berry scent. The colored foams are fun for kids, but also provide parents with a visible application indicator before drying clear on the skin.
It is “a modern solution to the age-old parenting problem of applying sunscreen on fussy kids by making it an interactive activity they’ll enjoy, while offering the same trusted sun protection we’ve provided since our inception,” said Saikus.
Hawaiian Tropic wants consumers to think sun protection 365, too.
“We consider sun care a standard part of your year-round skin care routine, and this messaging is consistent with our range of Hawaiian Tropic products and ingredients. Our product roster features skin care staples to ensure you’re able to get your daily dose of SPF in, whether you’re heading outdoors on a hike, going to the beach to surf, or getting ready in the morning before working from home,” said Heather Choe, brand manager.
Hawaiian Tropic offers a range of products for the beach, pool, hiking, biking and outdoor activities as well as new formulations such as dry mist and a milk, which Choe described as the perfect morning prep for a skin care routine and great for wintertime SPF application, respectively.
Hawaiian Tropic Silk Hydration Weightless Dry Mist in SPF 15 and 30 is made with a blend of coconut, argan, grapeseed and olive oils. The lightweight dry oil mist is ultra-hydrating but dry to the touch, leaving skin with a beautiful, non-greasy glow. It is reef friendly and PETA-certified cruelty-free. Hawaiian Tropic’s Mineral Skin Nourishing Milk in SPF 30 and 50 and Mineral Skin Nourishing Tinted Facial Milk SPF 30 products are enriched with Hawaiian-inspired botanicals like coconut and kukui nut for lightweight, yet long-lasting moisturization.
And for those who want a glow without the sun, Hawaiian Tropic has rolled sunless tan collection that includes light/medium and dark self-tanning foams, express tan foam, and gradual tan lotion. Like its SPF formulations, the sunless tan SKUs are enriched with vitamin E and hydrate and moisturize the skin while providing a natural looking glow with a tropical scent. They are transfer-resistant and do not contain parabens, according to Hawaiian Tropic.
Also making waves in sunless tanning is Bali Body, which launched its first express aerated foam product. New 1 Hour Express Self Tan is now the fastest developing self-tan available within the brand’s best-selling range. It provides a dark and natural looking tan via a formula enriched with nourishing oils and vitamin E.
Australian Gold’s newest innovation is its plant-based SPF lotion. With the highest concentration of aloe vera, this lotion helps soothe, soften and moisturize skin along with the fatty acids in coconut oil to help intensely moisturize skin, while remaining gentle enough for sensitive skin. When used as directed, this product has been shown to reduce the risk of early skin aging, and protects against UVA and UVB rays, as well as blue light and infrared light, according to the company. Options includes SPF 30, 50 and 70 lotions and an SPF 50 for the face.
Aloha Reef Safe Legislation
The law banning the sale of sunscreens with oxybenzone and octinoxate is in place in Hawaii, and marketers that want to sell their wares locally must be in compliance with these reef-safe regulations.
That’s been the goal all along for Raw Elements USA, an indie brand that has been squarely focused on providing products that Founder Brian Guadagno contends are safe for consumers and the planet. All of Raw Elements sunscreens are NPA Certified Natural, non-GMO, cruelty free and reef friendly as they rely on non-nano zinc oxide as the sole active ingredient.
Earlier this year, in a partnership with Target and The Kohala Center, touch-free sunscreen dispensers filled with Raw Elements sunscreen were installed at Kahalu’u Beach Park in Kona, Hawaii to support local coral revitalization efforts. The brand’s sunscreen dispensers can also be found in Rhode Island (where Guadagno was a lifeguard for many years), the Waikiki Aquarium, and aboard marine biologist Ocean Ramsey’s One Ocean Dive & Conservation boats.
Raw Elements USA and Ramsey also partnered on a launch for 2021. New Ocean Ramsey/World Reef Day Signature SPF 30 is a compostable stick and a full zero waste product; sales will fund the marine conservation efforts of Save The Sea Turtles International through Raw Elements’ 1% For The Planet commitment.
Raw Elements is enjoying greater shelf presence, too, bolstered by large retailers eager to expand shelf space for sunscreens that are in compliance with regulators and meet demands of consumers. The brand has launched into Target in Hawaii and Florida where the retailer is focused on supporting reef safety legislation. In addition, REI has expanded the Raw Elements SPF product range to all its stores.
“Retailers are really investing in clean, safe sunscreens for humans and the environment,” Guadagno told Happi.
The company is also tackling product packaging, and making a number of major changes this year. For starters, Raw Elements is rolling out aluminum tubes for its Tinted Face Moisturizer SPF 30 & Daily Moisturizer SPF 30; its Face+Body SPF 30 is launching in 100% recyclable Bio Plastic, green polyethylene with a favorable carbon footprint; and all of its SPF Lip and SPF Face Sticks are changing to 100% PCR polypropylene. Lastly, its Face+Body & Tinted Face SPF 30 tins will now be direct print and will no longer carry a BOP material label, which makes them entirely zero waste packages.
“We take a truly holistic approach to protecting humans and the environment from our ingredients, to our finished products through the packaging and delivery systems. As a pioneering indie brand in the sun care space it is our responsibility to deliver product solutions as well as create educational initiatives that change industry and consumer practices with positive impact,” said Guadagno.
Edgewell’s powerhouse brands are also providing more reef safe products.
“Hawaiian Tropic is deep rooted in our Hawaiian Values – Care (Malama), Responsibility (Kuleana), Harmony (Lokahi), and Community (‘Ohana). To us, this means people, animals and our planet are at the core of everything we do. Our reef-friendly, cruelty-free expanded line provides our consumers with endless options to live their best lives in the sun, while also caring for our planet and the world around us,” said Choe.
According to Saikus, a completely reef-friendly portfolio has been a key goal of Banana Boat for years, and now, nearly 100% of its products will be reef-friendly (the brand’s SPF 100s products are not).
“These products enable our customers to enjoy their time in the sun while also keeping their love and care for our earth in mind,” said Saikus.
Bright Light
Fast-expanding sun care brand Sun Bum rolled out two facial sunscreen products that are also reef safe. Sun Bum’s SPF 45 Sunscreen Face Mist was developed as a daily go-to facial SPF, according to Ashley Aron, vice president of marketing. Made to deliver sheer, lightweight protection that can be used every day, the formulation contains avobenzone, homosalate, octisalate and octocrylene as active ingredients as well as witch hazel to help soothe sensitive skin. Sun Bum’s new Moisturizing Face 70 is a lightweight sunscreen lotion specifically formulated to give daily broad spectrum protection and help keep skin balanced and hydrated with vitamin E. Made to absorb easily into skin for a super sheer look and feel, without the greasy residue, it is water resistant for 80 minutes. Also new is a Sun Bum hand cream with SPF 15, billed as an ultra-hydrating, non-greasy cream formulated with a 100% natural sugar-based complex that keep hands moisturized for 24 hours.
Looking at the numbers, more consumers are gravitating to the Sun Bum range, which was founded in 2010 and was acquired by SC Johnson in 2019. In the sluggish market last year, Sun Bum’s sales jumped an impressive 56.2%, according to IRI data (see chart).
“As we all know, small and local businesses were blindsided by the global pandemic. We all were. Fortunately, we were able to look at new ways to support our retailers, engage our community and encourage people to stay protected whenever they were able to go outside,” said Aron.
As we near springtime in North America, sun care makers hope their newest products will entice cooped up consumers to apply product and safely enjoy some much-needed time outdoors.
“Everybody needs some vitamin D. But we also need to protect ourselves from the dangers of the sun every day,” said Aron of Sun Bum. “Introducing new formats to better support and reinforce daily SPF protection has been our inspiration for 2021 innovation. We also encourage our community that if you stay out past 10 minutes, please make sure to put on sunscreen—we don’t care if it’s ours, just use it.”
Efforts to make sun protection easy to incorporate into one’s daily routine will benefit skin health overall, and if consumers see sun protection as seasonless, that will benefit manufacturers, too.
A list of new sun care ingredients starts below.
Sun Care Ingredients
Below are new ingredients for use in sun care products available from industry suppliers. For more information on the materials mentioned, contact each company directly.
BASF Care Creations, North America
Florham Park, NJ
(800) 962-7831
CareCreations-NA@basf.com
www.carecreations.basf.us
Z-COTE HP1 X
INCI: Zinc oxide, triethoxycaprylylsilane
Application: Sunscreen lotion, stick, spray
Percent Usage: Up to 25% active amount
Comments: Z-Cote HP1 X is a highly effective mineral UV filter which offers less whitening on the skin in sun care formulations. This nano powder can be used in a variety of formulation applications including lotions, sticks, and sprays.
Calumet Penreco
Indianapolis, IN
(267) 889-9861
Shannon.Hart@CLMT.com
https://penreco.com/
VERSASTIQUE Clear ML 5T
INCI: C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Butyl Stearate, Isostearyl Alcohol, Hydrogenated Styrene/Butadiene
Copolymer, Dibutyl Lauroyl Glutamide, Dibutyl Ethylhexanoyl Glutamide, Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-t-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate
Percent Usage: Up to 80%+
Application: Sunblock/sunscreen, lip protection, After-sun cooling sticks
Comments: VERSASTIQUE CLEAR ML 5T is a crystal clear solid stick form of C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate providing a light, non-greasy skin feel for clear suncare stick applications. It is a multifunctional material that provides a better way to formulate in simplifying the creation of solid sticks while stabilizing and protecting active ingredients. Studies demonstate the water-resistant properties of the Versastique Clear series enable higher SPF post-immersion vs. the static or pre-immersion values making it an attractive base for clear, high performance sunscreens sticks.
VERSASTIQUE Low Melt SQ 5T
INCI: Squalane, Butyl Stearate, Isostearyl Alcohol, Hydrogenated Styrene/Butadiene
Copolymer, Dibutyl Ethylhexanoyl Glutamide, Dibutyl Lauroyl Glutamide, Pentaerythrityl Tetra-di-t-butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate
Percent Usage: Up to 80%+
Application: Sunblock/sunscreen, Anti-aging SPF, After-sun cooling sticks
Comments: VERSASTIQUE LOW MELT SQ 5T is a clear solid stick form of Squalane, derived from sugar cane which moisturizes and treats the skin without leaving greasy residue. It is a multifunctional material that provides a better way to formulate by simplifing the creation of solid sticks. The low melt point enables incorporation of heat sensitive ingredients and a safer processing temperature. Studies performed on the Versastique SQ demonstrate that it improves the anti-aging efficacy of Squalane making it a great choice for clear sunscreen sticks with anti-aging benefits.
VERSASTIQUE Low Melt ME 5T
INCI: Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Butyl Stearate, Isostearyl Alcohol, Hydrogenated Styrene/Butadiene
Copolymer, Dibutyl Ethylhexanoyl Glutamide, Dibutyl Lauroyl Glutamide, Pentaerythrityl Tetra-di-t-butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate
Percent Usage: Up to 80%+
Applications: Sunblock/sunscreen, lip protection, After-sun cooling sticks
Comments: VERSASTIQUE LOW MELT ME 5T is a solid stick form of Hydrogenated Polyisobutene providing a light, non-greasy feel with good spreading properties and serves as a great mineral oil-free alternative. It is easily emulsified and has a wide range of chemical compatibility while stabilizing and protecting active ingredients. The low melt point allows for incorporation of heat sensitive actives and volatile ingredients while also providing a safer processing temperature. It additionally reduces the amount of structural materials required, simplifying the creation of clear sun care sticks.
Corum Inc.
Taiwan
(562) 236-5700
marketing.support@corum.com.tw
www.corum.com.tw/
Et-VC
INCI: 3-O-ethyl ascorbic acid (Chemical Name: Ethyl Ascorbic Acid)
Application: Sunscreen lotion, cream spray, stick; after-sun treatment; lip protection
Percent Usage: 0.5-10%
Comments: Et-VC is a novel vitamin C derivative with excellent whitening, anti-oxidation, radicals scavenging and collagen increasing effect. Its stability is superior to other ascorbic acid derivatives.
Corum 5014
INCI: Lauryl / myristyl benzoate
Application: Sunscreen lotion, cream spray, stick; lip protection
Percent Usage: 1-20%
Comments: Corum 5014 is made from plant-derived alkyl group and recommended as a replacement for C12-15 alkyl benzoate, isopropyl myristate and isopropyl palmitate. It’s a solubilizer and fixative for perfume oils, an emollient and dispersing agent for antiperspirant products, and an excellent solubilizer for UV filter.
Corum 5015
INCI: Diisostearyl malate
Application: Sunscreen lotion, cream spray, stick; lip protection; hair
Percent Usage: 1-20%
Comments: Corum 5015 is a diester of many branched long chain alcohol and malic acid. It is a high polar ester because of the derivative of α-hydroxy acid. Corum 5015 has very good oxidative stability and castor oil-like function. It has good pigment dispersibility and good solubility with vegetable oils, mineral oils and solvents.
Evonik
Essen, Germany
(847) 727-0700
EvonikPC@evonik.com
www.evonik.com/personalcare
Tego Natural Amaranth
INCI: Amaranthus caudatus seed oil
Application: After-sun Ttreatment
Percent Usage: 1% - 25%
Comments: Golden oil with a unique lipid composition rich in natural squalene for a smooth skin feel. It retains the skin’s elasticity and prevents photodamage, thereby providing an ideal solution for after-sun treatment.
Tego Natural Phloretin
INCI: Pyrus malus fruit extract
Application: After-sun treatment, sunscreen lotion
Percent Usage: Up to 0.04%
Comments: Tego Natural Phloretin is a highly enriched extract with energizing antioxidative properties for a healthy-looking skin with additional skin defense potential. Its antioxidative and skin defense properties can help add to the protective nature of sunscreen systems while providing a natural botanical based on apples, something consumers can understand.
Tego Sterol 7-DHC
INCI: 7-Dehydrocholesterol
Application: After-sun treatment, sunscreen creams
Percent Usage: Up to 0.5%
Comments: Tego Sterol 7-DHC is a natural skin sterol. It is a precursor of both cholesterol and vitamin D3 biosynthesis and has been found to provide protective skin benefits relative to UV exposure. It also can provide a rich sensory feel property that makes it suitable for creams and rich textured product forms.
DSM Personal Care
Parsippany, NJ
973-257-8222
Info.Pc-na@dsm.com
www.dsm.com/personal-care
Parsol ZX
INCI: Zinc oxide, triethoxycaprilylsilane
Application: Sunscreen
Percent Usage: Up to 25%
Comments: Globally approved mineral UV filter designed to deliver maximum SPF, UVA and blue light protection with high transparency compared to benchmarks. Parsol ZX also maintains low viscosity when tested in different emollients, meaning high use levels are possible without compromising on dispersibility.
EPHA-AGE
INCI: Scenedesmus rubescens extract
Application: Sunscreen, skin care
Percent Usage: 3%
Comments: A natural multifunctional algae that minimizes skin damage and the appearance of aging after exposure to blue light and UV, delivers even skin tone and overall improved skin appearance and reduces oxidative stress and carbonylated proteins.
Innospec Performance Chemicals
Salisbury, NC
704-907-8028
personalcare@innospecinc.com
www.innospec.com
Sunsolv BOS
INCI: Butyloctyl salicylate
Application: sunscreens, skin care and color cosmetics
Percent Usage: 2-10%
Comments: Sunsolv BOS is an ester of salicylic acid and a branched C-12 alcohol. Its utility can be broadly summarized into 3 categories: solubilizer, photostabilizer and carrier/dispersant. This product offers low viscosity and relatively high polarity. It can be used as a solubilizer for crystalline UV filters, as a photostabilizer for photo-unstable UV filters, and as a carrier and dispersant for TiO2 and ZnO.
InnoSil 904
INCI: Dimethicone(and) trisiloxane
Application: Sun care
Percent Usage: 5-10%
Comments: A cyclic-free composition used primarily in facial cosmetics, (foundations primers, etc.) at a use level of 5-10% to improve application spreading while providing a moderately slower application time. InnoSil 904 can also be used as a carrier fluid for cosmetic and antiperspirant stick applications providing application glide and a moderately faster drying time. Can be used in combination with InnoSil 905 to control the desired application time.
Jeen International Corp.
Fairfield, NJ
973-439-1401
etodurge@jeen.com
www.jeen.com
Jeesperse T70-CC
INCI: Titanium Dioxide (and) C13-14 alkane (and) polyhydroxystearic acid (and) triethoxycaprylylsilane
Application: Sunscreen lotion, cream, spray, sticks, lip protection
Percent Usage: 1 – 35.75%
Comments: Jeesperse T70-CC is a high-volume load dispersion of a physical sunblock in a naturally-derived alkane. Offers >95% natural content and contains 70% broad UVA / UVB protecting titanium dioxide. Significantly increases efficiency of formulating and manufacturing SPF products. Can be used alone or in combination with other sun products.
JEESPERSE Z70-CC
INCI: Zinc oxide (and) C13-14 Alkane (and) polyhydroxystearic acid (and) triethoxycaprylylsilane
Application: Sunscreen lotion, cream, spray, stick, lip protection
Percent Usage: 1-35.75%
Comments: Jeesperse Z70-CC is a high-volume load dispersion of a physical sunblock in a naturally-derived alkane. Offers >95% natural content and contains 70% broad UVA/UVB protecting zinc oxide. Significantly increases efficiency of formulating and manufacturing SPF products. Can be used alone or in combination with other sun products.
Jungbunzlauer Inc.
Newton, MA
617-696-0900
office.bos@jungbunzlauer.com
www.jungbunzlauer.com/
CITROFOL AI
INCI: Triethyl citrate
Application: Sunscreen lotion
Percent Usage: 5-20%
Comments: Citrofol AI is a 100% bio-based, COSMOS-approved emollient derived from citric acid. It efficiently solubilizes organic-based UV filters, and creates homogenous stable dispersions with inorganic UV filters. It’s the perfect ingredient to enhance the sensory characteristics of natural-based sunscreens with the potential to enhance UV protection.
Lubrizol Life Science
Cleveland, OH
800-379-5839
personalcare@lubrizol.com
www.lubrizol.com/Personal-Care
Sunhancer Eco SPF Booster
INCI: Copernicia cerifera (carnauba) wax (and) oryza sativa (rice) bran wax CFDA compliant
Application: Increases SPF in cosmetic and skin care products
Percent Usage: 3-5wt% (100% TS)
Comments: Sunhancer Eco SPF Booster is a naturally-derived technology that increases SPF and is compatible with both organic and inorganic sunscreen actives. It is non-nano, inherently biodegradable and non-persistent in the environment meaning you’re now able to reduce the quantity of UV filters.
Lumicease Blue Ingredient
INCI: Water (aqua), hydrolyzed pea protein, glucose, sodium chloride, sodium succinate
Application: Solar and artificial blue light protection and repair
Percent Usage: 2%
Comments: Obtained through biotechnology from one of the most radiation-resistant microorganisms, Lumicease blue ingredient activates the epidermal photosensors and prepares, protects and repairs the skin from solar and artificial blue light-induced damage, helping minimize the main signs of digital and photoaging. Naturality according to ISO 16128 - 100% natural origin content.
Mibelle Biochemistry
Switzerland
201-335-2030
info@mibellegroupusa.com
www.mibellebiochemistry.com
InfraGuard
INCI: Caesalpinia spinosa fruit pod extract (and) helianthus annuus (sunflower) sprout extract (and) maltodextrin (and) aqua /water
Application: Sun and day care, blue light protection products, advanced antioxidant formulations, energizing products
Percent Usage: 2-3%
Comments: Blocks IR and blue light-induced free radical formation. Protects mitochondrial DNA. Inhibits light-induced skin aging. Prevents the loss of skin density upon sun exposure.
Helioguard 365
INCI: Aqua/water (and) lecithin (and) alcohol (and) sodium lactate (and) porphyra umbilicalis extract (and) phenoxyethanol
Applications: Day cream, moisturizer, lip care, hair care
Percent Usage: 1-5%
Comments: A natural UVA protection factor for everyday. Protects the skin against premature aging signs. Prevents the appearance of lines, wrinkles and other signs of photo-aging. DNA-protection.
Micro Powders, Inc.
Tarrytown, New York
Phone: 914.793.4058
Email: mpi@micropowders.com
Website: MPIpersonalcare.com
Produce Name: Naturesoft 880GTNaturesoft 880GT
INCI: Oryza Sativa (rice) Bran Wax, Cameillia Sinensis (Green Tea) Leaf Extract
Applications: Sun Care Lotions and Sprays and After Sun
Comments: Naturesoft 880GT is an ultrafine powder derived from rice bran wax and green tea leaf extract. Green tea is rich in polyphenols and catechins well known for anti-inflammation and anti-irritation so well suited for calming and soothing properties in sun care applications. Use level is 1-5%.
SEIWA KASEI CO., LTD.
Osaka, Japan
(172) 987-2626
sales@seiwakasei.co.jp
https://seiwakasei.jp/en/
Amitose 3GA
INCI: 3-glyceryl ascorbate, glycerin, water
Application: After-sun lotion, after-sun gel, after-sun serum
Percent Usage: 1-6%
Comments: Sunlight include some kinds of light with different wavelength. Amitose 3GA, an original vitamin C derivative, suppresses generation of ROS in fibroblasts which is due to UVA, blue light and near-infrared ray exposure. It is suitable for photo-aging care product.
Shin-Etsu Silicones of America
Akron, OH
330-630-9860, 800-544-1745
Fax: 330-630-9855
www.Shinetsusilicones.com, www.silicones.jp
SPD-T5L
INCI: Dimethicone (&) titanium dioxide (and) polyglyceryl-3 polydimethylsiloxyethyl dimethicone (&) aluminum hydroxide (and) stearic acid
Applications: Skin lotions and creams; anti-aging products; skin whitening products; sun care products: lotions, creams, sprays, self-tanners; cosmetics: foundations
Percent Usage: 10-30%
Comments: Shin-Etsu SPD-T5L is a fine titanium dioxide powder dispersion in 2 cs dimethicone that effectively prevents UV radiation from reaching the skin. The product is essentially non-whitening, with a transparent appearance on the skin, and has a silky, light skin feel. The dispersion is stabilized by a proprietary branched silicone-polyglycerin copolymer dispersant that helps in breaking down the metal oxide agglomerates to give the dispersion a high active content with low product viscosity. The dispersant also effectively reduces the density of the metal oxides, thereby enhancing the suspension stability. The product provides an important tool for the chemists to make low viscosity sunscreen products, including sprays, with a light, non-greasy skin-feel without compromising the stability. Additionally, SPD-T5L is also effective for use in skin care products to provide even-toned finish.
X-25-9135
INCI: Dimethicone & zinc dioxide & polyglyceryl-3 polydimethylsiloxyethyl dimethicone and triethoxycaprylsilane
Applications: Skin lotions and creams; anti-aging products; skin whitening products; sun care products: lotions, creams, sprays, self-tanners; cosmetic foundations
Suggested use levels: 10-40%
Comments: X-25-9135 is a fine zinc oxide powder dispersion in 2 cs dimethicone that effectively prevents UVA radiation from reaching the skin. The surface treatment is globally compliant. It is ideal for use in skin care, sun care and makeup products providing superior even-tone finish. This dispersion is easily incorporated as a final phase addition using Shin-Etsu standard formulation system.
USG-1011
INCI: Undecane (&) dimethicone/vinyldimethicone crosspolymer and tridecane
Percent Usage: Emulsions 3-25%; anhydrous 15-90%; hair products: 1-30%
Applications: Skin lotions and creams; anti-aging products; skin whitening products; sun care products: lotions, creams, sprays, self-tanners; cosmetics foundations
Comments: USG-1011 is an elastomer gel swollen in naturally derived alkanes. It is a multifunctional sensory enhancer with an exceptional dry, silky, smooth feel with no residue. The product is designed to be an effective thickener in various silicone and natural organic oils. When added to the oil phase, it helps to stabilize both w/o and o/w emulsions. The product eliminates or reduces shine in sunscreens.
SNF
Riceboro, GA
912-884-3366
flocare@snf.com
www.personalcare.snf.com
Flocare NAT 132
INCI: Sodium acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate (ATBS) copolymer & C15-19 alkane & lauryl glucoside
Application: Sunscreen lotion and creams, after-sun treatment
Percent Usage: 2 to 4 %
Comments: A multifunctional inverse emulsion that can be used to formulate sun care products with no heat required. Flocare NAT 132 is 67% naturally derived according to ISO 16128. This polymer will even thicken, stabilize, and emulsify organic and/or inorganic UV filters.
Yet while Americans may not have taken their usual beach vacations in 2020, they were still putting themselves where the sun’s rays were shining. According to the Outdoor Industry Association, Americans took up new activities in significant numbers in April, May and June of 2020, and among the biggest gainers were running, cycling and hiking—activities that can increase one’s time in the sun. Dermatologists and health experts know that the sun’s damaging rays never take a vacation, and even incremental sun exposure can increase the chances of skin cancer and hasten the signs of aging like fine lines, wrinkles and spots.
It’s a message that consumers need to be told—again and again, and again.
“Every day, all year long, we are exposed to sunlight, and the sunlight during a hike, ride, or walk may be just as if not more intense than during a ‘vacation.’ Sun damage, or photodamage, occurs whenever unprotected skin is exposed to the sun’s ultraviolet (UV) rays, so pandemic or not, when enjoying time outdoors exposed skin is always at risk for sun damage,” said Neutrogena’s Joshua Williams, who handles claims strategy for the J&J band.
According to Williams, being consistent and deliberate when applying sunscreen has known skin health benefits by blocking UVA and UVB rays from penetrating the deepest layers of the skin and it can lower the risk of potentially developing skin cancer.
“From a beauty perspective, a skin care routine that includes consistent SPF coverage helps to maintain your skin’s youthful appearance by slowing down the development of wrinkles, fine lines and hyperpigmentation caused by sun exposure,” he added.
Protection Plus
Sunscreen makers across the category continue to ramp up the aesthetics for consumers who want easy-to-apply products that provide ample protection without trade-offs—especially that tell-tale sign that one’s wearing sunscreen: visible residue.
“Consumers today are looking for sunscreens that offer great protection, but don’t leave behind a visible residue. Use of sunscreen in one’s daily routine is one of the best ways to maintain one’s natural youthful appearance and protect against the accelerated aging that sun exposure can bring,” said Williams.
Neutrogena’s Ultra Sheer line is a favorite among consumers, he insists, as it offers powerful sun protection for all preferences and occasions with lightweight lotions that leave the skin feeling dry to the touch and convenient options for outdoor occasions including sticks and body mist sprays. More recently, Neutrogena rolled out broad spectrum SPF 55 face mist, a new form for the brand.
Sun care sales in mass markets actually declined for the first time in years, according to IRI data.
Getting all consumers to use sun protection on a daily basis would be the dermatology sector’s dream come true, but compliance is often hampered by products that don’t work well with a variety of skin tones.
“SPF is an essential step in skin care and skin health. SPF should be a part of everyone’s skin regimen,” said Christin Powell, co-founder and CEO of Kinship, a clean beauty company.
For Powell, crafting a great facial SPF product requires solving several issues.
“We knew there were several pain points in the SPF market. One, few provide real skin care benefits; Two, few are formulated with safe, clean ingredients that are enjoyable to use; Three, most of the mineral sunscreens do not work for dark skin tones as they leave a significant white cast; and Four, many sunscreens on the market can aggravate acne, causing people to avoid using them and risk sun damage or worse, potential skin cancer down the road. Not a good situation all around,” she said.
Kinship, she insists, has solved those issues with Self Reflect, its mineral-based, moisturizing skin care product with SPF 32 that helps with blemish-prone skin, helps balance the skin microbiome and is sheer, reef safe, non-greasy and leaves skin with a “glowy” finish.
“Aesthetics are extremely important because consumers have such a negative impression of sunscreens—they’re greasy, tacky, too thick, you can’t wash them off and most mineral sunscreens make you look like a ghost. Nobody wants that. We needed this product to be a ‘wow’ in the aesthetic department,” Powell told Happi.
According to Powell, the right blend of natural minerals and turmeric created the product’s peach-pearl color that blends into most skin tones.
In addition, the formulation contains Kinbiome—the brand’s proprietary plant-based pre-probiotic that helps balance the skin’s microbiome and helps with blemish-prone skin—and red raspberry seed oil, which is rich in omega fatty acids for excellent moisturizing and anti-inflammatory properties.
The product gained a fan base and landed on several best facial SPF lists last year. In fact, Powell told Happi that Kinship had to “rapidly adapt to accelerate our production to keep up with the growing demand.” To meet demand, in January Kinship rolled out a value-sized package that is double the size of the original bottle.
“There is so much more opportunity for innovation in SPF and we’re excited by the challenge,” Powell said.
Other brands are addressing SPF products with better aesthetics for a range of skin tones.
AbsoluteJOI, founded by Dr. Anne Beal, MD, recently launched a Daily Hydrating Moisturizing Cream with SPF 40 Mineral Sunscreen. Designed for everyday use by African American women, it combines makeup, moisturizer and SPF into one nourishing product that calms existing acne while protecting against future breakouts. In addition to protecting skin from UV radiation, it blocks up to 59% of HEV blue light and leaves no white cast, according to the brand.
New from Dr. Dennis Gross Skincare is an All-Physical SPF Lightweight Wrinkle Defense SPF 30, which hits Sephora.com this month. This oil-free SPF is formulated with non-nano zinc oxide; lingonberry, which is rich in vitamins C and E; and sea buckthorn, which absorbs high energy blue light. It blends into all skin tones without leaving a pasty residue, and was tested on Fitzpatrick 1-7 with no white cast.
Vichy launched a facial SPF, Capital Soleil Tinted 100% Mineral SPF 60 Sunscreen, described as an ultra-lightweight face lotion with 100% mineral sunscreen UV filters with a sheer tint for a healthy glow. It is water-resistant up to 80 minutes, fragrance-free and suitable for all skin types, even sensitive skin, according to the brand.
Daily Dose
Getting consumers to incorporate daily sun protection is a shared goal among all stakeholders.
“We believe that applying sunscreen should be an everyday, year-long habit as SPF is critical for protecting your skin’s long-term health—regardless of whether you’re heading to the beach or just taking a neighborhood stroll,” said Christina Saikus, senior brand manager at Banana Boat. “Our wide array of products accommodates the unique needs and preferences of our consumers so they can find the right fit for their daily routine.”
Banana Boat’s formulation team created products that address skin sensitive issues. Its Sensitive Mineral Enriched C-Spray SPF 50 is a mineral-enriched product with the convenience of a continuous spray, while Banana Boat Sensitive Lotion SPF 50, which is a 100% mineral lotion, has the National Eczema Association Seal of Acceptance. Both formulations feature hypoallergenic, naturally sourced zinc, no added oils or fragrances, and are made without parabens. According to Saikus, the lotion is a great option for daily use as a part of a morning skin care regimen and the C-spray is perfect for “endurance activities” like hiking and biking.
“Banana Boat’s overarching mission is to protect the fun for families with sun protection that gives them peace of mind to say ‘yes’ to more outdoor activities, and we understand that outdoor fun has looked different for families this year, which is why we’ve honed in our messaging across platforms to focus on activities that don’t require straying far from home,” she said.
Last summer, when families were spending time mostly at home, Banana Boat partnered with Dancing With the Stars’ Allison Holker who shared backyard dance routines and obstacle courses on social media. This summer the brand will launch a new initiative surrounding outdoor family fitness, according to Saikus.
When it comes to family protection, Banana Boat added several SKUs this season. Banana Boat Kid & Baby Mineral and Mineral Enriched products include mineral enriched C-spray in SPF 50 and a lotion SPF 50 lotion. They are reef friendly, tear-free and easy to rub in.
It is “a modern solution to the age-old parenting problem of applying sunscreen on fussy kids by making it an interactive activity they’ll enjoy, while offering the same trusted sun protection we’ve provided since our inception,” said Saikus.
Hawaiian Tropic wants consumers to think sun protection 365, too.
“We consider sun care a standard part of your year-round skin care routine, and this messaging is consistent with our range of Hawaiian Tropic products and ingredients. Our product roster features skin care staples to ensure you’re able to get your daily dose of SPF in, whether you’re heading outdoors on a hike, going to the beach to surf, or getting ready in the morning before working from home,” said Heather Choe, brand manager.
Hawaiian Tropic offers a range of products for the beach, pool, hiking, biking and outdoor activities as well as new formulations such as dry mist and a milk, which Choe described as the perfect morning prep for a skin care routine and great for wintertime SPF application, respectively.
Hawaiian Tropic Silk Hydration Weightless Dry Mist in SPF 15 and 30 is made with a blend of coconut, argan, grapeseed and olive oils. The lightweight dry oil mist is ultra-hydrating but dry to the touch, leaving skin with a beautiful, non-greasy glow. It is reef friendly and PETA-certified cruelty-free. Hawaiian Tropic’s Mineral Skin Nourishing Milk in SPF 30 and 50 and Mineral Skin Nourishing Tinted Facial Milk SPF 30 products are enriched with Hawaiian-inspired botanicals like coconut and kukui nut for lightweight, yet long-lasting moisturization.
And for those who want a glow without the sun, Hawaiian Tropic has rolled sunless tan collection that includes light/medium and dark self-tanning foams, express tan foam, and gradual tan lotion. Like its SPF formulations, the sunless tan SKUs are enriched with vitamin E and hydrate and moisturize the skin while providing a natural looking glow with a tropical scent. They are transfer-resistant and do not contain parabens, according to Hawaiian Tropic.
Australian Gold’s newest innovation is its plant-based SPF lotion. With the highest concentration of aloe vera, this lotion helps soothe, soften and moisturize skin along with the fatty acids in coconut oil to help intensely moisturize skin, while remaining gentle enough for sensitive skin. When used as directed, this product has been shown to reduce the risk of early skin aging, and protects against UVA and UVB rays, as well as blue light and infrared light, according to the company. Options includes SPF 30, 50 and 70 lotions and an SPF 50 for the face.
Aloha Reef Safe Legislation
The law banning the sale of sunscreens with oxybenzone and octinoxate is in place in Hawaii, and marketers that want to sell their wares locally must be in compliance with these reef-safe regulations.
That’s been the goal all along for Raw Elements USA, an indie brand that has been squarely focused on providing products that Founder Brian Guadagno contends are safe for consumers and the planet. All of Raw Elements sunscreens are NPA Certified Natural, non-GMO, cruelty free and reef friendly as they rely on non-nano zinc oxide as the sole active ingredient.
Earlier this year, in a partnership with Target and The Kohala Center, touch-free sunscreen dispensers filled with Raw Elements sunscreen were installed at Kahalu’u Beach Park in Kona, Hawaii to support local coral revitalization efforts. The brand’s sunscreen dispensers can also be found in Rhode Island (where Guadagno was a lifeguard for many years), the Waikiki Aquarium, and aboard marine biologist Ocean Ramsey’s One Ocean Dive & Conservation boats.
Raw Elements USA and Ramsey also partnered on a launch for 2021. New Ocean Ramsey/World Reef Day Signature SPF 30 is a compostable stick and a full zero waste product; sales will fund the marine conservation efforts of Save The Sea Turtles International through Raw Elements’ 1% For The Planet commitment.
“Retailers are really investing in clean, safe sunscreens for humans and the environment,” Guadagno told Happi.
The company is also tackling product packaging, and making a number of major changes this year. For starters, Raw Elements is rolling out aluminum tubes for its Tinted Face Moisturizer SPF 30 & Daily Moisturizer SPF 30; its Face+Body SPF 30 is launching in 100% recyclable Bio Plastic, green polyethylene with a favorable carbon footprint; and all of its SPF Lip and SPF Face Sticks are changing to 100% PCR polypropylene. Lastly, its Face+Body & Tinted Face SPF 30 tins will now be direct print and will no longer carry a BOP material label, which makes them entirely zero waste packages.
“We take a truly holistic approach to protecting humans and the environment from our ingredients, to our finished products through the packaging and delivery systems. As a pioneering indie brand in the sun care space it is our responsibility to deliver product solutions as well as create educational initiatives that change industry and consumer practices with positive impact,” said Guadagno.
Edgewell’s powerhouse brands are also providing more reef safe products.
“Hawaiian Tropic is deep rooted in our Hawaiian Values – Care (Malama), Responsibility (Kuleana), Harmony (Lokahi), and Community (‘Ohana). To us, this means people, animals and our planet are at the core of everything we do. Our reef-friendly, cruelty-free expanded line provides our consumers with endless options to live their best lives in the sun, while also caring for our planet and the world around us,” said Choe.
According to Saikus, a completely reef-friendly portfolio has been a key goal of Banana Boat for years, and now, nearly 100% of its products will be reef-friendly (the brand’s SPF 100s products are not).
“These products enable our customers to enjoy their time in the sun while also keeping their love and care for our earth in mind,” said Saikus.
Bright Light
Fast-expanding sun care brand Sun Bum rolled out two facial sunscreen products that are also reef safe. Sun Bum’s SPF 45 Sunscreen Face Mist was developed as a daily go-to facial SPF, according to Ashley Aron, vice president of marketing. Made to deliver sheer, lightweight protection that can be used every day, the formulation contains avobenzone, homosalate, octisalate and octocrylene as active ingredients as well as witch hazel to help soothe sensitive skin. Sun Bum’s new Moisturizing Face 70 is a lightweight sunscreen lotion specifically formulated to give daily broad spectrum protection and help keep skin balanced and hydrated with vitamin E. Made to absorb easily into skin for a super sheer look and feel, without the greasy residue, it is water resistant for 80 minutes. Also new is a Sun Bum hand cream with SPF 15, billed as an ultra-hydrating, non-greasy cream formulated with a 100% natural sugar-based complex that keep hands moisturized for 24 hours.
“As we all know, small and local businesses were blindsided by the global pandemic. We all were. Fortunately, we were able to look at new ways to support our retailers, engage our community and encourage people to stay protected whenever they were able to go outside,” said Aron.
As we near springtime in North America, sun care makers hope their newest products will entice cooped up consumers to apply product and safely enjoy some much-needed time outdoors.
“Everybody needs some vitamin D. But we also need to protect ourselves from the dangers of the sun every day,” said Aron of Sun Bum. “Introducing new formats to better support and reinforce daily SPF protection has been our inspiration for 2021 innovation. We also encourage our community that if you stay out past 10 minutes, please make sure to put on sunscreen—we don’t care if it’s ours, just use it.”
Efforts to make sun protection easy to incorporate into one’s daily routine will benefit skin health overall, and if consumers see sun protection as seasonless, that will benefit manufacturers, too.
A list of new sun care ingredients starts below.
Sun Care Ingredients
Below are new ingredients for use in sun care products available from industry suppliers. For more information on the materials mentioned, contact each company directly.
BASF Care Creations, North America
Florham Park, NJ
(800) 962-7831
CareCreations-NA@basf.com
www.carecreations.basf.us
Z-COTE HP1 X
INCI: Zinc oxide, triethoxycaprylylsilane
Application: Sunscreen lotion, stick, spray
Percent Usage: Up to 25% active amount
Comments: Z-Cote HP1 X is a highly effective mineral UV filter which offers less whitening on the skin in sun care formulations. This nano powder can be used in a variety of formulation applications including lotions, sticks, and sprays.
Calumet Penreco
Indianapolis, IN
(267) 889-9861
Shannon.Hart@CLMT.com
https://penreco.com/
VERSASTIQUE Clear ML 5T
INCI: C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Butyl Stearate, Isostearyl Alcohol, Hydrogenated Styrene/Butadiene
Copolymer, Dibutyl Lauroyl Glutamide, Dibutyl Ethylhexanoyl Glutamide, Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-t-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate
Percent Usage: Up to 80%+
Application: Sunblock/sunscreen, lip protection, After-sun cooling sticks
Comments: VERSASTIQUE CLEAR ML 5T is a crystal clear solid stick form of C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate providing a light, non-greasy skin feel for clear suncare stick applications. It is a multifunctional material that provides a better way to formulate in simplifying the creation of solid sticks while stabilizing and protecting active ingredients. Studies demonstate the water-resistant properties of the Versastique Clear series enable higher SPF post-immersion vs. the static or pre-immersion values making it an attractive base for clear, high performance sunscreens sticks.
VERSASTIQUE Low Melt SQ 5T
INCI: Squalane, Butyl Stearate, Isostearyl Alcohol, Hydrogenated Styrene/Butadiene
Copolymer, Dibutyl Ethylhexanoyl Glutamide, Dibutyl Lauroyl Glutamide, Pentaerythrityl Tetra-di-t-butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate
Percent Usage: Up to 80%+
Application: Sunblock/sunscreen, Anti-aging SPF, After-sun cooling sticks
Comments: VERSASTIQUE LOW MELT SQ 5T is a clear solid stick form of Squalane, derived from sugar cane which moisturizes and treats the skin without leaving greasy residue. It is a multifunctional material that provides a better way to formulate by simplifing the creation of solid sticks. The low melt point enables incorporation of heat sensitive ingredients and a safer processing temperature. Studies performed on the Versastique SQ demonstrate that it improves the anti-aging efficacy of Squalane making it a great choice for clear sunscreen sticks with anti-aging benefits.
VERSASTIQUE Low Melt ME 5T
INCI: Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Butyl Stearate, Isostearyl Alcohol, Hydrogenated Styrene/Butadiene
Copolymer, Dibutyl Ethylhexanoyl Glutamide, Dibutyl Lauroyl Glutamide, Pentaerythrityl Tetra-di-t-butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate
Percent Usage: Up to 80%+
Applications: Sunblock/sunscreen, lip protection, After-sun cooling sticks
Comments: VERSASTIQUE LOW MELT ME 5T is a solid stick form of Hydrogenated Polyisobutene providing a light, non-greasy feel with good spreading properties and serves as a great mineral oil-free alternative. It is easily emulsified and has a wide range of chemical compatibility while stabilizing and protecting active ingredients. The low melt point allows for incorporation of heat sensitive actives and volatile ingredients while also providing a safer processing temperature. It additionally reduces the amount of structural materials required, simplifying the creation of clear sun care sticks.
Corum Inc.
Taiwan
(562) 236-5700
marketing.support@corum.com.tw
www.corum.com.tw/
Et-VC
INCI: 3-O-ethyl ascorbic acid (Chemical Name: Ethyl Ascorbic Acid)
Application: Sunscreen lotion, cream spray, stick; after-sun treatment; lip protection
Percent Usage: 0.5-10%
Comments: Et-VC is a novel vitamin C derivative with excellent whitening, anti-oxidation, radicals scavenging and collagen increasing effect. Its stability is superior to other ascorbic acid derivatives.
Corum 5014
INCI: Lauryl / myristyl benzoate
Application: Sunscreen lotion, cream spray, stick; lip protection
Percent Usage: 1-20%
Comments: Corum 5014 is made from plant-derived alkyl group and recommended as a replacement for C12-15 alkyl benzoate, isopropyl myristate and isopropyl palmitate. It’s a solubilizer and fixative for perfume oils, an emollient and dispersing agent for antiperspirant products, and an excellent solubilizer for UV filter.
Corum 5015
INCI: Diisostearyl malate
Application: Sunscreen lotion, cream spray, stick; lip protection; hair
Percent Usage: 1-20%
Comments: Corum 5015 is a diester of many branched long chain alcohol and malic acid. It is a high polar ester because of the derivative of α-hydroxy acid. Corum 5015 has very good oxidative stability and castor oil-like function. It has good pigment dispersibility and good solubility with vegetable oils, mineral oils and solvents.
Evonik
Essen, Germany
(847) 727-0700
EvonikPC@evonik.com
www.evonik.com/personalcare
Tego Natural Amaranth
INCI: Amaranthus caudatus seed oil
Application: After-sun Ttreatment
Percent Usage: 1% - 25%
Comments: Golden oil with a unique lipid composition rich in natural squalene for a smooth skin feel. It retains the skin’s elasticity and prevents photodamage, thereby providing an ideal solution for after-sun treatment.
Tego Natural Phloretin
INCI: Pyrus malus fruit extract
Application: After-sun treatment, sunscreen lotion
Percent Usage: Up to 0.04%
Comments: Tego Natural Phloretin is a highly enriched extract with energizing antioxidative properties for a healthy-looking skin with additional skin defense potential. Its antioxidative and skin defense properties can help add to the protective nature of sunscreen systems while providing a natural botanical based on apples, something consumers can understand.
Tego Sterol 7-DHC
INCI: 7-Dehydrocholesterol
Application: After-sun treatment, sunscreen creams
Percent Usage: Up to 0.5%
Comments: Tego Sterol 7-DHC is a natural skin sterol. It is a precursor of both cholesterol and vitamin D3 biosynthesis and has been found to provide protective skin benefits relative to UV exposure. It also can provide a rich sensory feel property that makes it suitable for creams and rich textured product forms.
DSM Personal Care
Parsippany, NJ
973-257-8222
Info.Pc-na@dsm.com
www.dsm.com/personal-care
Parsol ZX
INCI: Zinc oxide, triethoxycaprilylsilane
Application: Sunscreen
Percent Usage: Up to 25%
Comments: Globally approved mineral UV filter designed to deliver maximum SPF, UVA and blue light protection with high transparency compared to benchmarks. Parsol ZX also maintains low viscosity when tested in different emollients, meaning high use levels are possible without compromising on dispersibility.
EPHA-AGE
INCI: Scenedesmus rubescens extract
Application: Sunscreen, skin care
Percent Usage: 3%
Comments: A natural multifunctional algae that minimizes skin damage and the appearance of aging after exposure to blue light and UV, delivers even skin tone and overall improved skin appearance and reduces oxidative stress and carbonylated proteins.
Innospec Performance Chemicals
Salisbury, NC
704-907-8028
personalcare@innospecinc.com
www.innospec.com
Sunsolv BOS
INCI: Butyloctyl salicylate
Application: sunscreens, skin care and color cosmetics
Percent Usage: 2-10%
Comments: Sunsolv BOS is an ester of salicylic acid and a branched C-12 alcohol. Its utility can be broadly summarized into 3 categories: solubilizer, photostabilizer and carrier/dispersant. This product offers low viscosity and relatively high polarity. It can be used as a solubilizer for crystalline UV filters, as a photostabilizer for photo-unstable UV filters, and as a carrier and dispersant for TiO2 and ZnO.
InnoSil 904
INCI: Dimethicone(and) trisiloxane
Application: Sun care
Percent Usage: 5-10%
Comments: A cyclic-free composition used primarily in facial cosmetics, (foundations primers, etc.) at a use level of 5-10% to improve application spreading while providing a moderately slower application time. InnoSil 904 can also be used as a carrier fluid for cosmetic and antiperspirant stick applications providing application glide and a moderately faster drying time. Can be used in combination with InnoSil 905 to control the desired application time.
Jeen International Corp.
Fairfield, NJ
973-439-1401
etodurge@jeen.com
www.jeen.com
Jeesperse T70-CC
INCI: Titanium Dioxide (and) C13-14 alkane (and) polyhydroxystearic acid (and) triethoxycaprylylsilane
Application: Sunscreen lotion, cream, spray, sticks, lip protection
Percent Usage: 1 – 35.75%
Comments: Jeesperse T70-CC is a high-volume load dispersion of a physical sunblock in a naturally-derived alkane. Offers >95% natural content and contains 70% broad UVA / UVB protecting titanium dioxide. Significantly increases efficiency of formulating and manufacturing SPF products. Can be used alone or in combination with other sun products.
JEESPERSE Z70-CC
INCI: Zinc oxide (and) C13-14 Alkane (and) polyhydroxystearic acid (and) triethoxycaprylylsilane
Application: Sunscreen lotion, cream, spray, stick, lip protection
Percent Usage: 1-35.75%
Comments: Jeesperse Z70-CC is a high-volume load dispersion of a physical sunblock in a naturally-derived alkane. Offers >95% natural content and contains 70% broad UVA/UVB protecting zinc oxide. Significantly increases efficiency of formulating and manufacturing SPF products. Can be used alone or in combination with other sun products.
Jungbunzlauer Inc.
Newton, MA
617-696-0900
office.bos@jungbunzlauer.com
www.jungbunzlauer.com/
CITROFOL AI
INCI: Triethyl citrate
Application: Sunscreen lotion
Percent Usage: 5-20%
Comments: Citrofol AI is a 100% bio-based, COSMOS-approved emollient derived from citric acid. It efficiently solubilizes organic-based UV filters, and creates homogenous stable dispersions with inorganic UV filters. It’s the perfect ingredient to enhance the sensory characteristics of natural-based sunscreens with the potential to enhance UV protection.
Lubrizol Life Science
Cleveland, OH
800-379-5839
personalcare@lubrizol.com
www.lubrizol.com/Personal-Care
Sunhancer Eco SPF Booster
INCI: Copernicia cerifera (carnauba) wax (and) oryza sativa (rice) bran wax CFDA compliant
Application: Increases SPF in cosmetic and skin care products
Percent Usage: 3-5wt% (100% TS)
Comments: Sunhancer Eco SPF Booster is a naturally-derived technology that increases SPF and is compatible with both organic and inorganic sunscreen actives. It is non-nano, inherently biodegradable and non-persistent in the environment meaning you’re now able to reduce the quantity of UV filters.
Lumicease Blue Ingredient
INCI: Water (aqua), hydrolyzed pea protein, glucose, sodium chloride, sodium succinate
Application: Solar and artificial blue light protection and repair
Percent Usage: 2%
Comments: Obtained through biotechnology from one of the most radiation-resistant microorganisms, Lumicease blue ingredient activates the epidermal photosensors and prepares, protects and repairs the skin from solar and artificial blue light-induced damage, helping minimize the main signs of digital and photoaging. Naturality according to ISO 16128 - 100% natural origin content.
Mibelle Biochemistry
Switzerland
201-335-2030
info@mibellegroupusa.com
www.mibellebiochemistry.com
InfraGuard
INCI: Caesalpinia spinosa fruit pod extract (and) helianthus annuus (sunflower) sprout extract (and) maltodextrin (and) aqua /water
Application: Sun and day care, blue light protection products, advanced antioxidant formulations, energizing products
Percent Usage: 2-3%
Comments: Blocks IR and blue light-induced free radical formation. Protects mitochondrial DNA. Inhibits light-induced skin aging. Prevents the loss of skin density upon sun exposure.
Helioguard 365
INCI: Aqua/water (and) lecithin (and) alcohol (and) sodium lactate (and) porphyra umbilicalis extract (and) phenoxyethanol
Applications: Day cream, moisturizer, lip care, hair care
Percent Usage: 1-5%
Comments: A natural UVA protection factor for everyday. Protects the skin against premature aging signs. Prevents the appearance of lines, wrinkles and other signs of photo-aging. DNA-protection.
Micro Powders, Inc.
Tarrytown, New York
Phone: 914.793.4058
Email: mpi@micropowders.com
Website: MPIpersonalcare.com
Produce Name: Naturesoft 880GTNaturesoft 880GT
INCI: Oryza Sativa (rice) Bran Wax, Cameillia Sinensis (Green Tea) Leaf Extract
Applications: Sun Care Lotions and Sprays and After Sun
Comments: Naturesoft 880GT is an ultrafine powder derived from rice bran wax and green tea leaf extract. Green tea is rich in polyphenols and catechins well known for anti-inflammation and anti-irritation so well suited for calming and soothing properties in sun care applications. Use level is 1-5%.
SEIWA KASEI CO., LTD.
Osaka, Japan
(172) 987-2626
sales@seiwakasei.co.jp
https://seiwakasei.jp/en/
Amitose 3GA
INCI: 3-glyceryl ascorbate, glycerin, water
Application: After-sun lotion, after-sun gel, after-sun serum
Percent Usage: 1-6%
Comments: Sunlight include some kinds of light with different wavelength. Amitose 3GA, an original vitamin C derivative, suppresses generation of ROS in fibroblasts which is due to UVA, blue light and near-infrared ray exposure. It is suitable for photo-aging care product.
Shin-Etsu Silicones of America
Akron, OH
330-630-9860, 800-544-1745
Fax: 330-630-9855
www.Shinetsusilicones.com, www.silicones.jp
SPD-T5L
INCI: Dimethicone (&) titanium dioxide (and) polyglyceryl-3 polydimethylsiloxyethyl dimethicone (&) aluminum hydroxide (and) stearic acid
Applications: Skin lotions and creams; anti-aging products; skin whitening products; sun care products: lotions, creams, sprays, self-tanners; cosmetics: foundations
Percent Usage: 10-30%
Comments: Shin-Etsu SPD-T5L is a fine titanium dioxide powder dispersion in 2 cs dimethicone that effectively prevents UV radiation from reaching the skin. The product is essentially non-whitening, with a transparent appearance on the skin, and has a silky, light skin feel. The dispersion is stabilized by a proprietary branched silicone-polyglycerin copolymer dispersant that helps in breaking down the metal oxide agglomerates to give the dispersion a high active content with low product viscosity. The dispersant also effectively reduces the density of the metal oxides, thereby enhancing the suspension stability. The product provides an important tool for the chemists to make low viscosity sunscreen products, including sprays, with a light, non-greasy skin-feel without compromising the stability. Additionally, SPD-T5L is also effective for use in skin care products to provide even-toned finish.
X-25-9135
INCI: Dimethicone & zinc dioxide & polyglyceryl-3 polydimethylsiloxyethyl dimethicone and triethoxycaprylsilane
Applications: Skin lotions and creams; anti-aging products; skin whitening products; sun care products: lotions, creams, sprays, self-tanners; cosmetic foundations
Suggested use levels: 10-40%
Comments: X-25-9135 is a fine zinc oxide powder dispersion in 2 cs dimethicone that effectively prevents UVA radiation from reaching the skin. The surface treatment is globally compliant. It is ideal for use in skin care, sun care and makeup products providing superior even-tone finish. This dispersion is easily incorporated as a final phase addition using Shin-Etsu standard formulation system.
USG-1011
INCI: Undecane (&) dimethicone/vinyldimethicone crosspolymer and tridecane
Percent Usage: Emulsions 3-25%; anhydrous 15-90%; hair products: 1-30%
Applications: Skin lotions and creams; anti-aging products; skin whitening products; sun care products: lotions, creams, sprays, self-tanners; cosmetics foundations
Comments: USG-1011 is an elastomer gel swollen in naturally derived alkanes. It is a multifunctional sensory enhancer with an exceptional dry, silky, smooth feel with no residue. The product is designed to be an effective thickener in various silicone and natural organic oils. When added to the oil phase, it helps to stabilize both w/o and o/w emulsions. The product eliminates or reduces shine in sunscreens.
SNF
Riceboro, GA
912-884-3366
flocare@snf.com
www.personalcare.snf.com
Flocare NAT 132
INCI: Sodium acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate (ATBS) copolymer & C15-19 alkane & lauryl glucoside
Application: Sunscreen lotion and creams, after-sun treatment
Percent Usage: 2 to 4 %
Comments: A multifunctional inverse emulsion that can be used to formulate sun care products with no heat required. Flocare NAT 132 is 67% naturally derived according to ISO 16128. This polymer will even thicken, stabilize, and emulsify organic and/or inorganic UV filters.
