Nancy Jeffries, Contributing Editor05.20.13
The latest edition of Beauty Press Spotlight Day, held earlier this month at New York’s Midtown Loft, showcased some of the newest products and services from emerging brands, including Brocato Hair, Eve Pearl Makeup, PretendTan, I Coloniali, Juliet, Osense and more. The prevailing message supported the well-being trend, with organics, targeted beauty and healthy ingredients all adding to product appeal, and emphasizing the mind, body, spirit connection as the dominant takeaway.
The appeal was evident, as editors tested and sampled everything from essential oil-rich serums by Balanced Guru; dermatologist-tested healing creams by Columbia products; sensual body creams with myrrh and Moroccan Rose, from I Coloniali; eyebrow shaping, fragrance, and overall beauty by makeup artist and beauty consultant, Juliet Stewart; and cosmetic applications with CosmeNutrients by Eve Pearl.
A spacious venue and unhurried atmosphere allowed ample time for editors to navigate from table to table to discover the products on display. Hair care guru Sam Brocato showcased his Supersilk Professional Silk Protein Amino Acid System with Nano Silk Complex to tame frizz and control unmanageable hair. The Nano Silk Complex is designed to take texture management beyond keratin formulas, to create smooth, healthy hair. Additional products included SuperSilk Pure Indulgence Shampoo, Actives Restorative Hair Infusion, Supersilk Leave-In Treatment, Back To The Beach Texturizing Mist and Swell Volume Full Body Styling Clay. In addition to hair care products, Brocato featured formaldehyde-free smoothing and texture systems, ammonia-free color technologies, as well as his new Oscillating Flat Iron, called VibraStrait, which features both heat and vibration, to reduce styling time and create a professional salon finish. Brocato Hair Care products range from $20-$24. The Vibrate Strait Flat Iron retails for $189, and Supersilk Services range from $150-$300. Additional information may be found at: www.brocatotoday.com.
Balanced Guru brought a range of USDA-certified organic choices to the exhibition, showcasing facial, spa, body, hair care and energetic products, said to combine ancient Eastern wisdom with modern scientific research. According to Juan Pinto who, along with his sister, Paola, founded the company three years ago, the essence of their company’s mission lies in a passion for wellness and how it translates to all aspects of beauty.
“With every step of the process, we operate from our strong belief in ethical, environmental and social responsibility,” said Pinto. “Part of the inspiration for this line was all the green-washing we were seeing,” he said, noting that Balanced Guru products are being made to a food standard. “The European standards are double standards, food and personal care. We believe that if you live up to a higher standard it’s very telling of the quality of your product, so we didn’t want to take the easy route. Rather than certifying to a European organic standard, we decided to go with the USDA standard.”
Pinto insists that the ingredients are so simple “that we have to be very elegant about what we formulate. These are products that go beyond beauty and that’s why we say Certified Organic Wellness, because they are not just another beauty brand.”
According to the company, the aromatherapeutic aspects of their approach allows users to explore the link between physical and emotional health through aromatic scents, and, “If our products smell different to you it is because you may have never encountered the true essence of plants and flowers.”
Among the product offerings are Exhale Slowly Scrub, Face It Deeply Cleanser, Tone It Lightly, and Ageless Serum, featuring Organic Triple Rose Firming Serum, with a blend of Bulgarian Rose, Rosehip Seed, Evening Primrose, Neroli, and Argan oils. Simple, color-coded packaging with green for facial products, orange for spa products, violet for energy products, yellow for hair care, and blue for body care, offer access to each group. The products launched in the US in May 2013 and retail for $25-$28. Additional information may be found at: www.balancedguru.com.
BeingTrue, which unites the spa business with products that are designed to improve the skin and bring out true beauty, addresses all skin types and skin care needs, to create a customized regimen for individual users. Among its products are skin care, color cosmetics and professional treatments. The targeted skin care line addresses changing skin care needs, with such products as BeingTrue Essential Radiance Skin Polish and Essential Soothing Tonic. The Being True Color Collection offers a full range of colors and formulas to treat, moisturize and protect the skin, while providing colors ranging from neutrals to fashion forward shades. Products include Being True Interference Color Rich Eye Shadow, a color and anti-aging treatment, and Interference Color Rich Eye Definer, with a wet/dry formula of triple-milled pigments. The Protective Collection features Being True Mineral Illuminator Compact, as well as Being True Finishing Touch Perfecting Pen, with Goji Berry to lift and firm the skin. Products are sold through high-end spas and salons across the US, and range in price from $5-98. Additional information may be found at: www.beingtrue.com.
Makeup Beyond Color
Eve Pearl Makeup with Skincare for Every Complexion offers a luxury brand of multi-functional cosmetics. Founder Eve Pearl, who is an Emmy Award-winning celebrity makeup professional, is widely known as an international beauty expert, with a penchant for innovative beauty and a range of nutrient-rich cosmetics for every skin tone and type.
Pearl, who gladly applied makeup to a waiting line of editors, refreshed and revitalized, provided makeup tips, and brought her egalitarian style of glamour to the exhibition floor. An innovator in high definition beauty, she developed her line, Eve Pearl Makeup with Skincare for Every Complexion, with a range of paraben-free foundations, including High Definition Cream Foundation shades, with blush, concealers, and mattifiers, as well as Priming Moisturizer Treatment and Anti-Aging Tinted Moisturizer, formulated with CosmeNutrients and Astaxanthin, to build collagen and rejuvenate the skin. There is also a range of Blush Trios, Highlighters, Mascaras, Lip Colors, and brushes.
All products include technique tips such as how to contour, how to create the flawless face, and how to utilize makeup for special occasions. Pearl featured the new Dual Salmon Concealer Treatment, $39, which utilizes the salmon shade as an undereye concealer to neutralize the dark blue undertones of the skin; HD Dual Foundation, for non-greasy coverage that allows the skin to breath ($56); the new Invisible Finish-Powderless Powder with Astaxanthin, to reduce shine, absorb oil, and impart light-diffusing pigments to the skin ($52 for12g, and $39 for 4g); and Dual Performance Lip Color, enriched with vitamin E ($24). Her new book, Plastic Surgery Without The Surgery, The Miracle of Makeup Techniques, is a tutorial for makeup product needs and cosmetic approaches. Additional information, products, and services may be found at: www.EvePearl.com.
Juliet Stewart, CEO of Juliet Stewart, a beauty and wellness company dedicated to teaching women about the power of their inner beauty, brings a unique philosophy to women. Her philosophy is that mainstream health and beauty industries sometimes misrepresent information critical to women’s well-being in order to sell products, their primary goal. She says that trends are not for everyone, and is dedicated to educating women by using her expertise in skin care, makeup artistry, and health care alternatives, “to create personal insights for each woman that will inspire and work.”
Services include Makeup Application and Consultations, Makeup Lessons for Teens, Professional Makeup Application, Eyebrow Shaping, Bridal Makeup Services for varying weather conditions, indoor or outdoor events, and special lighting conditions, as well as a range of Face and Body Treatments, and Wellness Services. She has also created a signature scent, Juliet Perfume, which she says is designed to “enable each woman to create her own love story.” Additional information is available at: www.julietstewart.com.
Another perspective on makeup came from Mistura, an Ottawa, Ontario-based brand that is said to be among the fastest-growing indie brands in Canada. The company launched in 2008 and features Mistura’s 6-in-1 Beauty Solution Multi-Functioning Pressed Powder, which is claimed to offer an airbrushed finish to all skin tones and types. Referred to as Mistura’s Magic Powder, the product is said to provide self-adjusting color to brighten and refresh the complexion with one-step application. The mineral-based powder, says, Andi Marcus, president, Mistura, was created to eliminate the need for foundation, concealer, blush, bronzer, lipstick and eyeshadow. The product is blended over the face as needed, with individual preference guiding application. For the lips, it is recommended that the powder be applied over a moisture base and dabbed on the lips. The powder will turn into a cream when lips are pressed together.
Mistura has recently expanded its range, offering Luminada Illuminating Moisturizer, with Vitamin E and Green Tea, Mistura Plump & Glow, for full, hydrated lips, as well as Mistura 6-in-1 kits, ranging from Essential Powder and Kabuki Brush to the Mistura Ultimate Kit. Products range from $28.99 - $73.99. Information may be found at: www.misturabeauty.com.
Body Care Artisanal and Historic
I Coloniali, which featured a full bath and body line, as well as a men’s shaving and skin care collection, is an Italian brand recognized for its innovative and artisanal products. Its product ranges utilize ingredients sourced from around the world, which add resonance to the collections, as well as provide a link with the mind, body and spirit, a noticeable thread throughout the exhibit.
The Men’s Rituals Collection includes naturally sourced mango, utilized for its emollient and protective properties, and rhubarb from China and Tibet, which offers purifying and soothing properties for the skin. Featured products include Shaving Cream with Mango Oil, Facial and Shaving Balm with Mango Kernel Oil, Softening Shaving Cream with Rhubarb, and Soothing Aftershave Emulsion with Rhubarb.
I Coloniali also showcased its bath and body collection, including Relaxing Bath Cream with Bamboo Extract, Aromatic Soap with Indian Sesame, and Deep Massage Body Cream with Myrrh.; as well as a range of Fragranced Body Sprays, called Seductive Elixirs, in such scents as Ardent Amber, Playful Lychee, Mysterious Rose, and Sexy Vanilla. According to Karen Dubin, representing Crafting PR, the Italian-made products, “are merged with Eastern philosophy and are designed to care for the whole person.”
Dubin cited the sensual and seductive characteristics of the Deep Massage Body Cream with Myrrh, the healing properties of the ingredients, as well as the artisanal packaging of the products, particularly Mango Shaving Soap for Men, in its terra cotta pot. I Coloniali product prices range from $12-68. Additional information may be found at: www.icoloniali-us.com.
Osense, the French Aromachology Fragrance Sticks just launched in the US, features natural ingredients, aromatherapeutic properties to create a specific mood, and according to Francois Damide, representing Osense, have become a trend in French spas today. Damide said that the unique fragrances in the aromachology sticks were created by master perfumers in Grasse to provide aromachology/aromatherapy properties. Each conveys a different mood and message.
Under the Stars of Ibiza contains jasmine sambac and patchouli notes for a joyful atmosphere; Summer Night in Tropez features ylang ylang and Bourbon Geranium notes, for relaxation and harmony; Sunbathing in St. Barth, with tiare flower and coconut notes, creates a peaceful and warm atmosphere; and Escapade to Ipanema contains opium and shea notes, for sensuality. There is also a Fragrance Discovery Collection to experience the entire range of 10 different scents. Made in France, the incense sticks are available through Crafting Beauty, and each pack of 24 sticks contains a mini fragrance stick holder, and retails for $20. Information is available at: www.osense.fr and www.craftingbeauty.com.
PretendTan, from DK Luxury Beauty Inc., has been in professional use for more than a decade in North America, and is said to offer an innovation in sunless tanning. According to DK Luxury Beauty President, Donna Kuczynksi, PretendTan is an easy to apply system that creates a natural-looking, sunless tan. It lasts for days, fades gradually over time, and creates a suntanned glow without UV exposure, according to Kuczynski. The system contains an enzyme exfoliator to create smoother, revitalized skin; Bronzing Mist, which may be sprayed directly onto the body at a 12” to 18” distance; or sprayed at close proximity and applied with an Applicator Mitt. There is also a Bronzing Mousse, for use with the Applicator Mitt.
Bronzing Mist is spa-inspired and formulated for a naturally radiant golden tan; and Bronzing Mousse is paraben-free, odor-free, and oil-free, to provide an even and natural look, without the sun. Each product retails for $38. Information is available at www.pretendTan.com.
The F.C. Sturtevant Company, one of America’s oldest family-owned skin care products companies, has been developing medicinal treatments used by dermatologists, estheticians, and surgeons since 1871. While many of their products were created for private label clients, two products, including Columbia Antiseptic Powder and Columbia Healing Cream have been available in the retail market. Both are made in the US, with proprietary formulations, are allergy-tested, and fragrance-free. Columbia Healing Cream, featured at the exhibition, is claimed to offer super hydration, advanced healing, and skin rejuvenation with a combination of botanicals, vitamins, and minerals to protect and soothe the skin, while stimulating the growth of new cells.
The restorative formula is designed for use on hands, cuticles, feet, elbows, knees and dry areas on the legs, arms and body. Columbia Healing Cream retails for $35 (3.5oz tube). Information may be found at: www.columbiapowder.com
The winds of change have shifted to wellness, with many of today’s products combining function with spa-like principles, aesthetics and health. Organics, pure ingredients and beauty that bucks the trends, are among the standouts in these emerging brands. History, artistry and a resonant ingredient story all play into the newer entries. If this is a sign of what is to come in beauty, consumers, as well as manufacturers will no doubt be more proactive in communicating an elevated cosmetic consciousness.
The appeal was evident, as editors tested and sampled everything from essential oil-rich serums by Balanced Guru; dermatologist-tested healing creams by Columbia products; sensual body creams with myrrh and Moroccan Rose, from I Coloniali; eyebrow shaping, fragrance, and overall beauty by makeup artist and beauty consultant, Juliet Stewart; and cosmetic applications with CosmeNutrients by Eve Pearl.
A spacious venue and unhurried atmosphere allowed ample time for editors to navigate from table to table to discover the products on display. Hair care guru Sam Brocato showcased his Supersilk Professional Silk Protein Amino Acid System with Nano Silk Complex to tame frizz and control unmanageable hair. The Nano Silk Complex is designed to take texture management beyond keratin formulas, to create smooth, healthy hair. Additional products included SuperSilk Pure Indulgence Shampoo, Actives Restorative Hair Infusion, Supersilk Leave-In Treatment, Back To The Beach Texturizing Mist and Swell Volume Full Body Styling Clay. In addition to hair care products, Brocato featured formaldehyde-free smoothing and texture systems, ammonia-free color technologies, as well as his new Oscillating Flat Iron, called VibraStrait, which features both heat and vibration, to reduce styling time and create a professional salon finish. Brocato Hair Care products range from $20-$24. The Vibrate Strait Flat Iron retails for $189, and Supersilk Services range from $150-$300. Additional information may be found at: www.brocatotoday.com.
Balanced Guru brought a range of USDA-certified organic choices to the exhibition, showcasing facial, spa, body, hair care and energetic products, said to combine ancient Eastern wisdom with modern scientific research. According to Juan Pinto who, along with his sister, Paola, founded the company three years ago, the essence of their company’s mission lies in a passion for wellness and how it translates to all aspects of beauty.
“With every step of the process, we operate from our strong belief in ethical, environmental and social responsibility,” said Pinto. “Part of the inspiration for this line was all the green-washing we were seeing,” he said, noting that Balanced Guru products are being made to a food standard. “The European standards are double standards, food and personal care. We believe that if you live up to a higher standard it’s very telling of the quality of your product, so we didn’t want to take the easy route. Rather than certifying to a European organic standard, we decided to go with the USDA standard.”
Pinto insists that the ingredients are so simple “that we have to be very elegant about what we formulate. These are products that go beyond beauty and that’s why we say Certified Organic Wellness, because they are not just another beauty brand.”
According to the company, the aromatherapeutic aspects of their approach allows users to explore the link between physical and emotional health through aromatic scents, and, “If our products smell different to you it is because you may have never encountered the true essence of plants and flowers.”
Among the product offerings are Exhale Slowly Scrub, Face It Deeply Cleanser, Tone It Lightly, and Ageless Serum, featuring Organic Triple Rose Firming Serum, with a blend of Bulgarian Rose, Rosehip Seed, Evening Primrose, Neroli, and Argan oils. Simple, color-coded packaging with green for facial products, orange for spa products, violet for energy products, yellow for hair care, and blue for body care, offer access to each group. The products launched in the US in May 2013 and retail for $25-$28. Additional information may be found at: www.balancedguru.com.
BeingTrue, which unites the spa business with products that are designed to improve the skin and bring out true beauty, addresses all skin types and skin care needs, to create a customized regimen for individual users. Among its products are skin care, color cosmetics and professional treatments. The targeted skin care line addresses changing skin care needs, with such products as BeingTrue Essential Radiance Skin Polish and Essential Soothing Tonic. The Being True Color Collection offers a full range of colors and formulas to treat, moisturize and protect the skin, while providing colors ranging from neutrals to fashion forward shades. Products include Being True Interference Color Rich Eye Shadow, a color and anti-aging treatment, and Interference Color Rich Eye Definer, with a wet/dry formula of triple-milled pigments. The Protective Collection features Being True Mineral Illuminator Compact, as well as Being True Finishing Touch Perfecting Pen, with Goji Berry to lift and firm the skin. Products are sold through high-end spas and salons across the US, and range in price from $5-98. Additional information may be found at: www.beingtrue.com.
Makeup Beyond Color
Eve Pearl Makeup with Skincare for Every Complexion offers a luxury brand of multi-functional cosmetics. Founder Eve Pearl, who is an Emmy Award-winning celebrity makeup professional, is widely known as an international beauty expert, with a penchant for innovative beauty and a range of nutrient-rich cosmetics for every skin tone and type.
Pearl, who gladly applied makeup to a waiting line of editors, refreshed and revitalized, provided makeup tips, and brought her egalitarian style of glamour to the exhibition floor. An innovator in high definition beauty, she developed her line, Eve Pearl Makeup with Skincare for Every Complexion, with a range of paraben-free foundations, including High Definition Cream Foundation shades, with blush, concealers, and mattifiers, as well as Priming Moisturizer Treatment and Anti-Aging Tinted Moisturizer, formulated with CosmeNutrients and Astaxanthin, to build collagen and rejuvenate the skin. There is also a range of Blush Trios, Highlighters, Mascaras, Lip Colors, and brushes.
All products include technique tips such as how to contour, how to create the flawless face, and how to utilize makeup for special occasions. Pearl featured the new Dual Salmon Concealer Treatment, $39, which utilizes the salmon shade as an undereye concealer to neutralize the dark blue undertones of the skin; HD Dual Foundation, for non-greasy coverage that allows the skin to breath ($56); the new Invisible Finish-Powderless Powder with Astaxanthin, to reduce shine, absorb oil, and impart light-diffusing pigments to the skin ($52 for12g, and $39 for 4g); and Dual Performance Lip Color, enriched with vitamin E ($24). Her new book, Plastic Surgery Without The Surgery, The Miracle of Makeup Techniques, is a tutorial for makeup product needs and cosmetic approaches. Additional information, products, and services may be found at: www.EvePearl.com.
Juliet Stewart, CEO of Juliet Stewart, a beauty and wellness company dedicated to teaching women about the power of their inner beauty, brings a unique philosophy to women. Her philosophy is that mainstream health and beauty industries sometimes misrepresent information critical to women’s well-being in order to sell products, their primary goal. She says that trends are not for everyone, and is dedicated to educating women by using her expertise in skin care, makeup artistry, and health care alternatives, “to create personal insights for each woman that will inspire and work.”
Services include Makeup Application and Consultations, Makeup Lessons for Teens, Professional Makeup Application, Eyebrow Shaping, Bridal Makeup Services for varying weather conditions, indoor or outdoor events, and special lighting conditions, as well as a range of Face and Body Treatments, and Wellness Services. She has also created a signature scent, Juliet Perfume, which she says is designed to “enable each woman to create her own love story.” Additional information is available at: www.julietstewart.com.
Another perspective on makeup came from Mistura, an Ottawa, Ontario-based brand that is said to be among the fastest-growing indie brands in Canada. The company launched in 2008 and features Mistura’s 6-in-1 Beauty Solution Multi-Functioning Pressed Powder, which is claimed to offer an airbrushed finish to all skin tones and types. Referred to as Mistura’s Magic Powder, the product is said to provide self-adjusting color to brighten and refresh the complexion with one-step application. The mineral-based powder, says, Andi Marcus, president, Mistura, was created to eliminate the need for foundation, concealer, blush, bronzer, lipstick and eyeshadow. The product is blended over the face as needed, with individual preference guiding application. For the lips, it is recommended that the powder be applied over a moisture base and dabbed on the lips. The powder will turn into a cream when lips are pressed together.
Mistura has recently expanded its range, offering Luminada Illuminating Moisturizer, with Vitamin E and Green Tea, Mistura Plump & Glow, for full, hydrated lips, as well as Mistura 6-in-1 kits, ranging from Essential Powder and Kabuki Brush to the Mistura Ultimate Kit. Products range from $28.99 - $73.99. Information may be found at: www.misturabeauty.com.
Body Care Artisanal and Historic
I Coloniali, which featured a full bath and body line, as well as a men’s shaving and skin care collection, is an Italian brand recognized for its innovative and artisanal products. Its product ranges utilize ingredients sourced from around the world, which add resonance to the collections, as well as provide a link with the mind, body and spirit, a noticeable thread throughout the exhibit.
The Men’s Rituals Collection includes naturally sourced mango, utilized for its emollient and protective properties, and rhubarb from China and Tibet, which offers purifying and soothing properties for the skin. Featured products include Shaving Cream with Mango Oil, Facial and Shaving Balm with Mango Kernel Oil, Softening Shaving Cream with Rhubarb, and Soothing Aftershave Emulsion with Rhubarb.
I Coloniali also showcased its bath and body collection, including Relaxing Bath Cream with Bamboo Extract, Aromatic Soap with Indian Sesame, and Deep Massage Body Cream with Myrrh.; as well as a range of Fragranced Body Sprays, called Seductive Elixirs, in such scents as Ardent Amber, Playful Lychee, Mysterious Rose, and Sexy Vanilla. According to Karen Dubin, representing Crafting PR, the Italian-made products, “are merged with Eastern philosophy and are designed to care for the whole person.”
Dubin cited the sensual and seductive characteristics of the Deep Massage Body Cream with Myrrh, the healing properties of the ingredients, as well as the artisanal packaging of the products, particularly Mango Shaving Soap for Men, in its terra cotta pot. I Coloniali product prices range from $12-68. Additional information may be found at: www.icoloniali-us.com.
Osense, the French Aromachology Fragrance Sticks just launched in the US, features natural ingredients, aromatherapeutic properties to create a specific mood, and according to Francois Damide, representing Osense, have become a trend in French spas today. Damide said that the unique fragrances in the aromachology sticks were created by master perfumers in Grasse to provide aromachology/aromatherapy properties. Each conveys a different mood and message.
Under the Stars of Ibiza contains jasmine sambac and patchouli notes for a joyful atmosphere; Summer Night in Tropez features ylang ylang and Bourbon Geranium notes, for relaxation and harmony; Sunbathing in St. Barth, with tiare flower and coconut notes, creates a peaceful and warm atmosphere; and Escapade to Ipanema contains opium and shea notes, for sensuality. There is also a Fragrance Discovery Collection to experience the entire range of 10 different scents. Made in France, the incense sticks are available through Crafting Beauty, and each pack of 24 sticks contains a mini fragrance stick holder, and retails for $20. Information is available at: www.osense.fr and www.craftingbeauty.com.
PretendTan, from DK Luxury Beauty Inc., has been in professional use for more than a decade in North America, and is said to offer an innovation in sunless tanning. According to DK Luxury Beauty President, Donna Kuczynksi, PretendTan is an easy to apply system that creates a natural-looking, sunless tan. It lasts for days, fades gradually over time, and creates a suntanned glow without UV exposure, according to Kuczynski. The system contains an enzyme exfoliator to create smoother, revitalized skin; Bronzing Mist, which may be sprayed directly onto the body at a 12” to 18” distance; or sprayed at close proximity and applied with an Applicator Mitt. There is also a Bronzing Mousse, for use with the Applicator Mitt.
Bronzing Mist is spa-inspired and formulated for a naturally radiant golden tan; and Bronzing Mousse is paraben-free, odor-free, and oil-free, to provide an even and natural look, without the sun. Each product retails for $38. Information is available at www.pretendTan.com.
The F.C. Sturtevant Company, one of America’s oldest family-owned skin care products companies, has been developing medicinal treatments used by dermatologists, estheticians, and surgeons since 1871. While many of their products were created for private label clients, two products, including Columbia Antiseptic Powder and Columbia Healing Cream have been available in the retail market. Both are made in the US, with proprietary formulations, are allergy-tested, and fragrance-free. Columbia Healing Cream, featured at the exhibition, is claimed to offer super hydration, advanced healing, and skin rejuvenation with a combination of botanicals, vitamins, and minerals to protect and soothe the skin, while stimulating the growth of new cells.
The restorative formula is designed for use on hands, cuticles, feet, elbows, knees and dry areas on the legs, arms and body. Columbia Healing Cream retails for $35 (3.5oz tube). Information may be found at: www.columbiapowder.com
The winds of change have shifted to wellness, with many of today’s products combining function with spa-like principles, aesthetics and health. Organics, pure ingredients and beauty that bucks the trends, are among the standouts in these emerging brands. History, artistry and a resonant ingredient story all play into the newer entries. If this is a sign of what is to come in beauty, consumers, as well as manufacturers will no doubt be more proactive in communicating an elevated cosmetic consciousness.