Neither snow, nor rain, nor gloom of night can keep cosmetic chemists from an educational seminar. With apologies to the US Postal Service, intrepid formulators from the tri-state area (and well beyond) slogged through poor road conditions to attend the first scientific seminar on the New York Chapter of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists’ 2018 calendar. The crowd was estimated at 150 and organizers were extremely pleased with the turnout and are looking forward to a busy and productive 2018, noted NYSCC chair Cathy Piterski, Givaudan.

 
“We have several more programs scheduled this year focusing on topics such as fragrance, regulatory and sunscreens to name a few,” she told attendees. “We have a great new website (www.nyscc.org) as well. Please visit and lend your support either as a sponsor or volunteer.”

 
The Anti-Pollution Seminar was organized by Alex Chan, an independent investigator exploring personal care science from a multitude of aspects. Co-chairs were Mavis Dennis and Esinam Agbley, both from Colgate-Palmolive.

 
Stephen Schwartz, president and CEO of International Research Services, Inc. (IRSI), detailed the types of particulate matter, including dust, dirt, soot and smoke. These polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons (PAHs) have been linked to skin, lung, bladder and other forms of cancer. At the same time, heavy metals such as cadmium have been proved to be cytotoxic to epidermal cells. When particle size is less than 1000nm they can be absorbed into the skin.

 
“The carcinogenicity of certain PAHs and heavy metals are well-established,” noted Schwartz. “Researchers have reported accelerated skin aging after prolonged exposure to PAHs and heavy metals found in the environment.”

 
The size of particulate matter has major biological and epidemiological effects on skin, too. When less than 2.5 nanometers, particulate matter has been shown to cause senescence in human dermal fibroblast cells and cause proteolytic degradation of skin lipids. Furthermore, these particulates significantly skin hydration and barrier properties—all of which leads to accelerated skin aging.

 
To measure the impact that these particulates have on skin, IRSI developed a Contained System Exposure Box. Schwartz explained that the box is filled with distinct particulates such as tobacco smoke or exhaust, the volar forearm is exposed and distinct regions are measured and product applied. Tape stripping is performed and analyzed for the presence and quantity of toxins. Results can then be used for protection and cleansing claims. 

 
According to Schwartz, most mechanical sunscreens, barrier protective products and well-formulated skin protective products can effectively shield the skin from environmental toxins greater than 250nm.
 

A Defense Mechanism


Skin is under attack. In fact, 80% of the world population lives in areas where the air quality exceeds the World Health Organization’s limits, according to Cristiane Pacheco, new business vice president, Chemyunion, Inc. Seventy-to-eighty percent of air pollution in large cities is attributed to vehicle emissions and three million people die prematurely every year from illness caused by outdoor pollution. It’s even worse indoors, as four million people die prematurely from indoor air pollution. Poor air quality is due, in part, to the fact that three billion people still rely on solid fuels for cooking and heating and one billion smokers in the world, according to WHO. These pollutants can lead to pigment spots, coarse wrinkles, Telangiectasia and laxity.
To protect skin, Chemyunion has launched SkinBlitz, which it describes as the “supreme anti-pollution defense.”


When compared to a standard film-forming agent, SkinBlitz delivered 65% less pollutant permeation. When used in formulation, this polymeric film is said to reduce inflammatory mediators, protects DNA, reduces Heat Shock Protein 70 levels by 55% and reduces Interleukin-6 response by 37%.


“SkinBlitz reduces skin roughness better than a placebo,” added Pacheco.

 
What About Hair?


Ann Young, technical service specialist for personal care actives in North America, BASF, reminded seminar attendees that hair gets damaged by pollution, too.
           

“Stand in a casino for an hour,” she suggested. “Your hair smells like smoke, because hair absorbs those pollutants.”
           

To improve hair, Young suggested incorporating three extracts into hair care formulas: Moringa oleifera seed, Litchi chinensis pericarp or Cassia alata leaf. At 2% use levels, Moringa oleifera seed protects against particle deposition and adhesion.
           

“It can repair and condition damaged hair and improve biomechanical properties, too,” explained Young.
           
Litchi chinensis pericarp acts as an antioxidant and moisturizer in hair care formulas.


Finally, Cassia alata leaf supplies hair follicles with protection against UV and stress-induced DNA damage. According to Young, it preserves hair from graying and helps hair maintain its strength properties.


Next up on the NYSCC calendar is the annual ski trip, February 9-11. This year, NYSCC skiers and snowboarders are heading to Killington. In addition to hitting the slopes, attendees will get an opportunity to learn more about microbreweries in the area. Plus, Englewood Labs’ VP-Product Development Marc Cornell will provide insight on K-Beauty trends.


The second event in the NYSCC Symposium series is "Packaging and Your Products." It will take place, February 21, at the Venetian in Garfield, NJ.

 
It’s still several months away, but the biggest event on the Chapter calendar is Suppliers’ Day, which will be held May 15 & 16 at the Javits Convention Center in New York. Visit www.nyscc.org to learn more.