• Login
    • Join
  • Subscribe Free
    • Magazine
    • eNewsletter
    Checkout
    • Magazine
    • News
    • Formulary
    • Exclusives
    • Top Companies
    • Raw Materials
    • End-User
    • Packaging
    • Directories
    • Events
    • Jobs
    • More
  • Magazine
  • News
  • Formulary
  • Exclusives
  • Top Companies
  • Raw Materials
  • End-User
  • Packaging
  • Directories
  • Events
  • Jobs
  • Current / Back Issues
    Features
    Columns
    Editorial
    Digital Edition
    eNewsletter Archive
    Our Team
    Editorial Guidelines
    Subscribe Now
    Advertise Now
    Top Features
    CBD Brands Must Focus On Health Solutions

    A Post-Pandemic Pause in Home Cleaner Sales

    Hair Color Market on Vibrant Streak Inching Out of Covid-19 Pandemic

    Wellness Industry Thrives with Vitamin-Infused Beverages & Beauty-Boosting Supplements

    Skin Care Soars into 2022 with New Products for Facial Care & Body Skin Health
    Online Exclusives
    Association News
    Breaking News
    Financial News
    Industry News
    International
    Marketing News
    New Products
    News Front
    Packaging News
    Patents
    Personnel
    Regulations
    Snapshots
    Top News
    Live From Shows
    Top News
    Proposed Senate FDA Legislation Includes Cosmetics Reform

    China Beauty Sales Slow; Blueland Enters Personal Care Category; Lady Gaga’s Cosmetics Relaunch

    MFG Chemical Names Viens Chief Financial Officer

    Bansk Group Acquires Majority Stake in Indie Haircare Brands Amika and Eva NYC

    Cocoa Butter Powdered Moisturizer Awarded US Patent
    Blog
    Online Exclusives
    Glossary
    Infographics
    Podcasts
    Whitepapers
    Videos
    Expert's Opinion
    HappiTV
    eBook
    Surveys
    International Top 30 Report
    Top 50 Report
    Top Companies
    22. Clarins

    30. Fancl

    12. Natura

    25. Tupperware

    Pola Orbis
    Actives
    Functional Ingredients
    Pigments
    Polymers
    Preservatives
    Surfactants

    Proposed Senate FDA Legislation Includes Cosmetics Reform

    China Beauty Sales Slow; Blueland Enters Personal Care Category; Lady Gaga’s Cosmetics Relaunch

    Jennifer Lopez Inks Deal with HydraFacial

    Luxury Website, Moda Operandi, Enters Beauty Category

    Global Trend Tracker Celebrates the Return of Her 'What's Next' Innovation Intel Treks
    Air Care/Environmental Fragrance
    AP/Deo
    Color Cosmetics
    Disinfectants
    Fine Fragrance
    Hair Care
    Household Cleaning
    I&I Marketplace
    Laundry Care
    Oral Care
    OTC/Medicated
    Packaging
    Personal Cleansers
    Skin Care
    Sun Care
    Testing

    Proposed Senate FDA Legislation Includes Cosmetics Reform

    China Beauty Sales Slow; Blueland Enters Personal Care Category; Lady Gaga’s Cosmetics Relaunch

    Bansk Group Acquires Majority Stake in Indie Haircare Brands Amika and Eva NYC

    Cocoa Butter Powdered Moisturizer Awarded US Patent

    Professional Golfer Justin Thomas Launches WearSPF Suncare
    Lab Equipment
    Mixing
    Packaging
    Testing

    Aerosol Recycling Initiative Launched by HCPA

    Goodnest Delivers New Options for Sustainable Baby Care Needs

    Colgate-Palmolive Releases 2021 Sustainability & Social Impact Report

    Sustainable Personal Care Brand sk*p Enters Ulta Beauty Stores

    LVMH Creates Cosmetic Packages with Carbon-Negative PET
    Contract Manufacturing / Private Label Directory
    Buyer's Guide
    Add New Company
    Corporate Profiles
    International Buyers Guide Companies
    LipoTrue Inc.

    Resolute Oil

    QRS (Quality Resourcing Services)

    KLK Oleo

    BotanicalsPlus
    Live From Shows
    Meetings
    Webinars
    Snapshots
    • Magazine
      • Current / Back Issues
      • Features
      • Editorial
      • Columns
      • Digital Edition
      • eNewsletter Archive
      • Subscribe Now
      • Advertise Now
    • Breaking News
    • Formulary
    • Directories
      • Buyer's Guide
      • Contract Manufacturing / Private Label Directory
      • Corporate Profiles
      • Add Your Company
    • Raw Materials
      • Actives
      • Functional Ingredients
      • Pigments
      • Polymers
      • Preservatives
      • Surfactants
    • End-User
      • Air Care/Environmental Fragrance
      • AP/Deo
      • Color Cosmetics
      • Disinfectants
      • Fine Fragrance
      • Hair Care
      • Household Cleaning
      • I&I Marketplace
      • Laundry Care
      • Oral Care
      • OTC/Medicated
      • Packaging
      • Personal Cleansers
      • Skin Care
      • Sun Care
      • Testing
    • Packaging
      • Lab Equipment
      • Mixing
      • Packaging
      • Testing
    • Top Companies
      • International Top 30 Report
      • Top 50 Report
    • Online Exclusives
    • Glossary
    • Experts Opinion
    • Slideshows
    • HappiTV
    • Podcasts
    • Videos
    • Infographics
    • eBook
    • Blog
    • Whitepapers
    • Surveys
      • R & D Salary Survey
      • Sales & Marketing Salary Survey
    • Job Banks
    • Events
      • Industry Events
      • Live from show Events
      • Webinars
    • About Us
      • About Us
      • Contact Us
      • Advertise With Us
      • Privacy Policy
      • Terms of Use
    Online Exclusives

    A Return to Castile Soap?

    A vegetable oil-based soap with an 80-year history of safety is a low-cost replacement for sulfated alcohols.

    A Return to Castile Soap?
    Related CONTENT
    • Brabender GmbH & Co. KG
    • Groninger
    • Excellentia International
    • Natural Plant Products, LLC
    • Natural Plant Products, LLC
    Tom Schoenberg , Personal Care Consultant04.04.21
    In today’s environment, producers of personal care products are continually challenged with new restrictions. The value of a product is no longer based on cost/performance, but whether it meets government safety requirements, which could be local, state or federal. Very often, the restrictions are not based on facts, but on potential risks. 
     
    For example, formaldehyde has been the most cost/effective preservative used in personal care for more than 80 years. Studies show that there is no evidence linking formaldehyde in cosmetics to cancer. Also, there is no official concentration at which formaldehyde is considered acceptable in personal care products. However, the name formaldehyde no longer appears on ingredient labels.1 The reason for this is that manufacturers prefer to avoid controversy. Once a chemical is deemed unsafe; e.g., formaldehyde, safety studies become irrelevant. Finding a replacement becomes the easier solution. Cost/performance becomes secondary.
     

    Surfactants


    Lately, several surface-active agents, (such as sulfates and nonionic), have been reported to be unsafe to the consumer. The following are three major surfactant classes in question:

    • Lauryl Sulfates (sodium, ammonium, TEA, etc.): This class of compounds has been the workhorse in personal care cleansers for over 70 years. In a concentrated form, (greater than 1.0%), if left on the skin for a long time, (24 hours) sulfates will cause irritation.2 In the diluted form, such as, washing hair, face, or hands, the surfactant is soon rinsed off and there is no risk.3
    Also, it has been rumored that “sulfates” are carcinogens but this myth is unfounded. Lauryl sulfates in a shampoo have no carcinogenic properties.3 At typical use levels, the Food and Drug Administration (FDA) and Cosmetic Ingredient Review Board (CIR) considered sulfates to be safe.

    • Ethoxylates: Ethoxylated compounds (fatty alcohols, amines, etc.) are the other workhorse surfactants used in personal cleansers for over 60 years. 1,4 dioxane (a potential human carcinogen), a byproduct of the ethoxylation process, is present at trace levels in laureth sulfates. The surfactant industry has significantly reduced the level to less than 10ppm.4 

    The FDA conducted a skin absorption study which showed 1,4 dioxane can penetrate huma skin when applied in a lotion. However, further research determined that 1,4 dioxane evaporates readily, further diminishing the already small amount available for skin absorption, even in products that remain on skin for hours.

    To date, there is no evidence that that 1,4 dioxane causes cancer in humans.4
     
    • Alkanol Amides: The alkanol amides have been used for over 80 years in cleansing products. When the amide is combined with an anionic surfactant; e.g., lauryl sulfate, the combination produces higher viscosity and improved foam quality (height and stability). In the process of formulating amides, there is a chance to form a nitrosamine with the amide or free amine. Cocamide DEA is often the source of diethanolamine which forms nitrosamine-n-nitrosethanolamine (NDELA). The nitosating agent can come from various sources. One common source is a preservative, 2-bromo-2-nitropropane 1,3-diol.

    Numerous studies link nitrosamines to cancer. Nitrosamines are listed as possible human carcinogens by the EPA, the International Agency for Research on Cancer, the US National Toxicity Program Report on Carcinogens and the California EPA Proposition 65 list of chemicals known to cause cancer or birth defects. Studies have also linked nitrosamines to developmental or reproductive toxicity, immunotoxicity, neurotoxicity and systemic toxicity.

    The FDA began watching personal care products for nitrosamine in 1979, and published a report stating that products containing nitrosamine could be seen as adulterated and subject to FDA enforcement. This led to a striking drop of NDELA from 150ppm to 3ppm.5 

    An example of the formation of a nitrosamine is show in the following mechanism:
     

    Mechanism of Nitrosamine Formation
    Although there are other suspected toxic compounds found in personal care cleansers, the major ones of concern today are formaldehyde, sulfates, ethoxylates and nitrosamines. None have shown to be connected to human cancer at normal use levels for cleansing products. Industries response to this dilemma is to replace the suspected surfactant with an alternative. Alternative surfactants, such as isethionates, or sarcosinates, have resulted in higher cost and lower performance. One alternative that has not been fully investigated is Castile soap.6,7


    Castile soap is a vegetable oil-based soap made in a style similar to that originating in the Castile region of Spain. Olive oil was the original vegetable oil used, however, eventually, olive oil was replaced with coconut oil. It is the most natural surfactant possible. The change in oils was most probably due to the better foaming properties of coconut oil soap, especially as coconut oil became easier to access.7

    In the 1930s, in Springfield Massachusetts, Dr. John H. Breck founded Breck Shampoo Company. Breck shampoo was the first major promotion for a Castile Soap Shampoo in the US. Breck’s ad campaign, which began in the 1930s and continued through the 1980s, featured beautiful illustrated portraits of “Breck Girls,” who were meant to look like real life women instead of glamourous models. Later, in the 1940s they dismissed other leading shampoos as “basically, synthetic detergents” promising that their natural (Castile soap) formula would not over strip the hair.9 Castile soap shampoo eventually gave way to the synthetics (sulfates) in the 1970s when Breck switched from Castile to synthetic.

    The Castile soap is a clear liquid around 40% active. It is prepared by the saponification of coconut or palm kernel oil (a triglyceride) with potassium hydroxide (note: sodium hydroxide will cause a cloudy product). The resulting compounds are potassium cocoate plus glycerin:
     
    Coconut (or palm kernel) oil + KOH = K cocoate + glycerin


    The glycerin is not removed. It provides a moisturizing effect to the skin.


    Other Additives



    When formulated, the coco sulfate is often combined with a foam booster and stabilizer which typically are amides or betaines. Cocamide DEA was the most common amide used, however, since DEA amides have been found to form nitrosamines, formulators have been searching to find alternatives. One replacement that appears promising, not based on DEA is: Cocamide DIPA (diisopropanolamide). It can often be used as a direct replacement for Cocamide DEA, without altering the performance of the product.
     
    The following model formula is based on Castile soap which is the main cleansing agent and is lower cost compared to other alternatives. This formula is: sulfate free, ethoxylate free, 1,4-dioxane free, formaldehyde free, DEA free, nitrosamine free:
     

    All-Purpose Cleaner
    Ingredients %Wt
    Surfonate 40  (Potassium cocoate - 40%) (General Surfactants, Joliet IL) 40.0
    Surfamide DIPA  (Cocamide DIPA) (General Surfactants, Joliet IL) 4.0
    Preservative/Fragrance q.s. q.s.
    Deionized water q.s.to 100

    Procedure:
    Combine the first two ingredients and water and blend. Heat to 40°C and blend until clear. Add preservative/fragrance and blend until clear. Cool and fill.
     
    This formula can be used as a base for a variety of products: shampoos, hard surface cleaners, liquid hand soaps, etc. Also, other additives may be included: e.g., aloe, hemp oil, biocides, proteins, etc.
     

    Conclusion


    Personal cleansing manufacturers continue to face more restrictions on raw materials allowed in their products. Alternatives for sulfated fatty alcohols and alkanol amides are more expensive and have mediocre performance. Castile soap, a proven success for more than 80 years, has been found to be a low-cost replacement for sulfated alcohols. Also, Castile soap, the most natural surfactant available,  is free of the claimed impurities, found in many personal care cleansers.

    The past may be the solution.

     
    References:
     1. Lisette Mejia, “Formaldehyde in Cosmetics: What’s the Verdict?”, Women’s Health, Oct. 2011.
     2. T.G. Schoenberg, “Sulfate-Free Cleansers”, Cosmetics and Toiletries, Dec. 2006, Vol 1`21, No. 12.
     3. "The Truth About Sulfates”, Best Health, July 2019.
     4. 1,4-Dioxane in Cosmetics: A Manufacturing Byproduct l EPA
     5. Shelley R. Kramer, “Healthy – Communications.com, 2009
     6. “How are Nitrosamines Formed? Bing
     7.  Schimmel Briefs, “Liquid Soaps”, April 1936
     8. Wikipedia “Castile Soap”.
     9. “How are nitrosamines formed?”, Bing
    10. Breck, “It’s claim to fame: Breck Girls”
    Related Searches
    • Surfactants
    • Functional Ingredients
    • Personal Cleansers
    Related Knowledge Center
    • Functional Ingredients
    • Personal Cleansers
    • Surfactants
    Suggested For You
    Brabender GmbH & Co. KG Brabender GmbH & Co. KG
    Groninger Groninger
    Excellentia International Excellentia International
    Natural Plant Products, LLC Natural Plant Products, LLC
    Natural Plant Products, LLC Natural Plant Products, LLC
    Formulated Solutions Formulated Solutions
    A Code Red for Humanity: More than 100 Beauty Brands Will Halt Social Media Posts on Sept. 21 In Support of Climate Change Reform A Code Red for Humanity: More than 100 Beauty Brands Will Halt Social Media Posts on Sept. 21 In Support of Climate Change Reform
    Unilever, L Unilever, L'Oréal, LVMH, Henkel & Natura To Create Sustainability Scoring System
    What You What You're Reading on Happi.com
    Kline: Glow Recipe, Prose and Ilia Beauty Are Primed to Be Billion-Dollar Buyouts Kline: Glow Recipe, Prose and Ilia Beauty Are Primed to Be Billion-Dollar Buyouts
    High-Shine Long-Wear Color Cosmetics Patented by Estée Lauder High-Shine Long-Wear Color Cosmetics Patented by Estée Lauder
    Jafra Introduces Six New Products to Skin and Fragrance Lines Jafra Introduces Six New Products to Skin and Fragrance Lines
    Consumer Demand for Perfume Soars Consumer Demand for Perfume Soars
    What You What You're Reading on Happi.com
    Delta Variant Won Delta Variant Won't Slow Beauty's Gains

    Related Content

    • Brabender GmbH & Co. KG

      ...
      Marc Gelautz, Strategic Marketing & PR Manager 04.01.22

    • Groninger

      ...
      Jochen Franke, Marketing & Tradeshow Coordinator 03.25.22

    • Excellentia International

      Excellentia International

      ...
      Jeffrey Buco 03.24.22


    • Natural Plant Products, LLC

      ...
      Laura Cox, Marketing Consultant - Contractor 03.14.22

    • Natural Plant Products, LLC

      Natural Plant Products, LLC

      ...
      Andee Masonek, Marketing Consultant - Contractor 03.14.22

      Breaking News
      • Proposed Senate FDA Legislation Includes Cosmetics Reform
      • China Beauty Sales Slow; Blueland Enters Personal Care Category; Lady Gaga’s Cosmetics Relaunch
      • Method For Stabilizing Retinoic Acid Precursors
      • Deodorant Emulsion for Aerosol Spray with Reduced Staining
      • Patent Covers Simultaneously Neutralizing and Coloring Relaxed Hair
      View Breaking News >
      CURRENT ISSUE

      May 2022

      • CBD Brands Must Focus On Health Solutions
      • Hair Color Market Remains Vibrant Post-Pandemic
      • New Skin Care Products for Facial Care & Body Skin Health
      • Vitamin-Infused Beverages & Beauty Supplements Lift Wellness
      • Laboratory Skin Care’s Hydroxysomes Dermal Delivery Platform
      • Formulating Skin Care Products with Pear Enzyme Technology
      • A Post-Pandemic Pause in Home Cleaner Sales

      Cookies help us to provide you with an excellent service. By using our website, you declare yourself in agreement with our use of cookies.
      You can obtain detailed information about the use of cookies on our website by clicking on "More information”.

      • About Us
      • Privacy Policy
      • Terms And Conditions
      • Contact Us

      follow us

      Subscribe
      Nutraceuticals World

      Latest Breaking News From Nutraceuticals World

      Lonza Expands Capsugel Capsule Offering with Titanium Dioxide-Free, White Hard Gelatin Capsules
      Cargill to Double Production of Tapioca Syrup
      Southwest College of Naturopathic Medicine to Become Sonoran University of Health Sciences
      Coatings World

      Latest Breaking News From Coatings World

      Lan Deng Joins The ChemQuest Group as Director
      Benjamin Moore Receives Two J.D. Power Awards
      Sherwin-Williams Declares Dividend of $0.60 per Common Share
      Medical Product Outsourcing

      Latest Breaking News From Medical Product Outsourcing

      MPO's Most-Read Stories This Week—May 14
      Teleflex Launches UroLift 2 System and UroLift ATC System in the U.S.
      ENDRA Life Sciences Achieves ISO 13485 Recertification
      Contract Pharma

      Latest Breaking News From Contract Pharma

      LOTTE to Purchase BMS East Syracuse NY Manufacturing Facility
      Bora Pharmaceuticals Acquires CDMO Assets from Eden Biologics
      Cytiva Opening New Facility in Switzerland
      Beauty Packaging

      Latest Breaking News From Beauty Packaging

      5 Packaging Execs Inducted into NJPEC Hall of Fame
      Nautica Unveils New Eco-Conscious, Alcohol-Free Fragrance
      Sigma Beauty Launches Clean Blushes, Bronzers and Highlighters
      Happi

      Latest Breaking News From Happi

      Proposed Senate FDA Legislation Includes Cosmetics Reform
      China Beauty Sales Slow; Blueland Enters Personal Care Category; Lady Gaga’s Cosmetics Relaunch
      Method For Stabilizing Retinoic Acid Precursors
      Ink World

      Latest Breaking News From Ink World

      Weekly Recap: INX’s New VC Fund, Flint Group and Siegwerk Lead This Week’s News
      The 2022 CPIPC Golf Outing Set for June 22
      NUtec’s NUbis Bulk Ink System Enables Continuous Printing
      Label & Narrow Web

      Latest Breaking News From Label & Narrow Web

      LemuGroup hosting Open House, Lynn Perenic honored and more
      PCMC and Hudson-Sharp assist Aspen Press & Packaging
      LemuGroup prepares for Open House in Spain
      Nonwovens Industry

      Latest Breaking News From Nonwovens Industry

      Weekly Recap: Ontex Confirms Possibility of Attindas Deal, Purell Launches New Wipes & More
      TSG Finishing Starts Modernization Project
      Berry Global Sets New Target to Reduce Scope 3 Emissions
      Orthopedic Design & Technology

      Latest Breaking News From Orthopedic Design & Technology

      ODT's Most-Read Stories This Week—May 14
      Steven Haddad Joins Extremity Medical as Chief Clinical Officer
      FDA OKs Accelus' FlareHawk TiHawk11 Interbodies
      Printed Electronics Now

      Latest Breaking News From Printed Electronics Now

      Weekly Recap: Fraunhofer, Nanosys and Avery Dennison Lead This Week’s Stories
      eMagin Corporation Announces 1Q 2022 Results
      Identiv Continues to Expand Global RFID, IoT Footprint

      Copyright © 2022 Rodman Media. All rights reserved. Use of this constitutes acceptance of our privacy policy The material on this site may not be reproduced, distributed, transmitted, or otherwise used, except with the prior written permission of Rodman Media.

      AD BLOCKER DETECTED

      Our website is made possible by displaying online advertisements to our visitors.
      Please consider supporting us by disabling your ad blocker.


      FREE SUBSCRIPTION Already a subscriber? Login