01.10.23
Macrocystis pyrifera ferment supports the skin’s natural lipids that allow it to create a stronger barrier and accelerate skin repair. The finding was made by the Max Huber Research Labs—home to on-going research related to La Mer’s “Miracle Broth.” Researchers made the discovery via lipidomics analysis.
The data was presented at the 47th Annual Meeting of the Japanese Society for Investigative Dermatology, which was held in Nagasaki, Japan.
Lipidomics is an emerging field of research that aims to understand biological systems through a comprehensive analysis of lipids. Through a lipidomic analysis of human skin equivalents, the Max Huber Research Labs discovered significant increases in skin barrier lipids and in skin repairing lipids when treated with Macrocystis pyrifera ferment, a signature ingredient in La Mer’s franchise hero Miracle Broth.
“These findings suggest the ferment supports essential lipids inside the skin and encourages healthy lipid metabolism that enriches a youthful lipidome,” said Dr. Jaime Emmetsberger, the lead scientist for La Mer’s Max Huber Research Labs, who spoke at the JSID annual meeting in early December 2022. “This is an exciting discovery as it suggests we can help slow down the lipid aging process from within instead of attempting to aid the lost function by topically applying those lipids.”
Skin is nourished with an abundance of naturally-occurring lipids from skin cells, which play a critical role in how the skin looks and functions.
According to Emmetsberger, the lipidome is a “complete profile” of the different types of lipids.
“Due to their diversity, certain lipids can have very specific roles in skin health. Particular classes of lipids make up an important part of the stratum corneum, which is the protective outer layer of the skin. These structural lipids form a physical barrier from the environment and are essential in preventing water loss. Lipids are also a significant component of sebum, which helps keep the skin surface hydrated. In addition, lipids have a variety of other functions, including acting as an essential energy source, maintaining cell structure as a major component of cell membranes, and playing critical roles in how cells signal or talk to one another,” she told Happi.
Lipid composition changes in relation to keratinocyte differentiation, which aids in epidermal stratification and the formation of a protective stratum corneum. Aberrant key steps in lipid metabolism in keratinocytes can result in alterations to barrier lipid components, thereby weakening epidermal barrier functionality. In particular, total stratum corneum lipids decrease by 30% with age, as a result of decreased lipid metabolism. A compromised skin barrier is more prone to irritation and water loss that can result in rough surface texture, uncomfortable tightness, and loss of facial fullness.
• Enhancement of epidermal neutral lipids: The researchers assessed neutral lipids content in skin model, such as triglycerides and wax esters, which are critical for the formation of a functional permeability barrier. Red staining shows a marked increase in lipids in the lower strata of the epidermis when treated with Macrocystis pyrifera ferment (MP Ferment) (Figure 1-see slider above).
• Alteration in lipid profile and enrichment in barrier lipids: The researchers further analyzed the changes in lipid profiles through lipidomics analysis. First, they analyzed the lipidomics data in a hierarchical cluster and found an overall shift in lipid profile with Macrocystis pyrifera ferment treatment (Figure 2-see slider above).
Second, through evaluation of specific subclasses and functional grouping, the researchers found a significant increase in important barrier lipids, such as O-Acyl-ω-hydroxy Fatty Acids (OAHFAs) (Figure 3-see slider above).
Third, the researchers targeted specific molecular species and categorized them by their subclassification. The following lipids showed dramatic difference (Log 2 fold change) between untreated samples to Macrocystis pyrifera ferment treated samples:
• (Increase) OAHFAs, wax esters (WE), triglycerides (TG), diacylglycerides (DG),
• (Decrease) Monoacylglycerides, phospholipids, phosphatidic acids, phosphatidylcholine and phosphatidylethanolamines.
Overall, the decrease in phospholipids and the increase in neutral lipid classes (Figure 4. 1-see slider above) indicate an enhancement of epidermal differentiation and lipid metabolism. (Image 2)
This phenomenon was also acknowledged within the same lipid subclasses, as precursor monoacylglycerides shifted to diacylglycerides and triglycerides. Triglycerides are one of the main components of skin barrier lipids, and their metabolism plays a critical role in barrier functionality* (Figure 4 2-see slider above). Franz P.W. et al, 2011
• Enhancement of lipid mediators that support repair: The resolution of irritation also relies on lipids, called lipid mediators. These lipid mediators actively help quell irritation and help the site return to homeostasis. As skin ages, it delays the resolution of irritation, leading to tissue damage as breakage in collagen or elastin and accelerates the aging process.
Macrocystis pyrifera ferment strongly induced pro-resolution lipid precursors, 15-HETE and 17-HDOHE, suggesting the ferment helped support the 15-Lipoxygenase enzyme that produces these lipid mediators.
Cells were pre-treated, in vitro, with Macrocystis pyrifera ferment for 24 hours prior to the stimulation with cell-stimulation reagents. After 1 hour of stimulation, the amount of pro-resolution lipids precursors generated from the cells was analyzed.
According to Emmetsberger, lipidomic analysis will help uncover if Macrocystis pyrifera ferment helps regulate various lipids impacted by age or different environmental factors.
“By understanding how Macrocystis pyrifera ferment affects lipid biology under different conditions, we can further discover Macrocystis pyriferaferment's mechanism and its impact in preventing skin damage, enhancing skin repair, and boosting energy, thereby reducing the visible signs of skin aging,” she said.
According to Emmetsberger, topical application of lipids is beneficial, “but it is superficial and is limited by the certain types of lipids or lipid mixtures within a given application.”
Macrocystis pyrifera ferment, she said, reinforces the complex process of natural production of barrier-associated lipids—“where lipids found in the lower layers of the skin are used as building blocks, or precursors, to generate intermediate lipids and, eventually, complex barrier lipids.”
Emmetsberger continued, “Macrocystis pyrifera ferment also helps regulate biologically active lipids that play a role in cell signaling. Inflammation becomes more prevalent with age and, when unregulated, can accelerate skin aging. We have found that Macrocystis pyrifera ferment helps decrease inflammatory lipids that lead to irritated skin while boosting lipids that help resolve irritation.”
The data was presented at the 47th Annual Meeting of the Japanese Society for Investigative Dermatology, which was held in Nagasaki, Japan.
Lipidomics is an emerging field of research that aims to understand biological systems through a comprehensive analysis of lipids. Through a lipidomic analysis of human skin equivalents, the Max Huber Research Labs discovered significant increases in skin barrier lipids and in skin repairing lipids when treated with Macrocystis pyrifera ferment, a signature ingredient in La Mer’s franchise hero Miracle Broth.
“These findings suggest the ferment supports essential lipids inside the skin and encourages healthy lipid metabolism that enriches a youthful lipidome,” said Dr. Jaime Emmetsberger, the lead scientist for La Mer’s Max Huber Research Labs, who spoke at the JSID annual meeting in early December 2022. “This is an exciting discovery as it suggests we can help slow down the lipid aging process from within instead of attempting to aid the lost function by topically applying those lipids.”
Skin is nourished with an abundance of naturally-occurring lipids from skin cells, which play a critical role in how the skin looks and functions.
According to Emmetsberger, the lipidome is a “complete profile” of the different types of lipids.
“Due to their diversity, certain lipids can have very specific roles in skin health. Particular classes of lipids make up an important part of the stratum corneum, which is the protective outer layer of the skin. These structural lipids form a physical barrier from the environment and are essential in preventing water loss. Lipids are also a significant component of sebum, which helps keep the skin surface hydrated. In addition, lipids have a variety of other functions, including acting as an essential energy source, maintaining cell structure as a major component of cell membranes, and playing critical roles in how cells signal or talk to one another,” she told Happi.
Lipid composition changes in relation to keratinocyte differentiation, which aids in epidermal stratification and the formation of a protective stratum corneum. Aberrant key steps in lipid metabolism in keratinocytes can result in alterations to barrier lipid components, thereby weakening epidermal barrier functionality. In particular, total stratum corneum lipids decrease by 30% with age, as a result of decreased lipid metabolism. A compromised skin barrier is more prone to irritation and water loss that can result in rough surface texture, uncomfortable tightness, and loss of facial fullness.
A Breakdown of the New Findings
• Enhancement of epidermal neutral lipids: The researchers assessed neutral lipids content in skin model, such as triglycerides and wax esters, which are critical for the formation of a functional permeability barrier. Red staining shows a marked increase in lipids in the lower strata of the epidermis when treated with Macrocystis pyrifera ferment (MP Ferment) (Figure 1-see slider above).
• Alteration in lipid profile and enrichment in barrier lipids: The researchers further analyzed the changes in lipid profiles through lipidomics analysis. First, they analyzed the lipidomics data in a hierarchical cluster and found an overall shift in lipid profile with Macrocystis pyrifera ferment treatment (Figure 2-see slider above).
Second, through evaluation of specific subclasses and functional grouping, the researchers found a significant increase in important barrier lipids, such as O-Acyl-ω-hydroxy Fatty Acids (OAHFAs) (Figure 3-see slider above).
Third, the researchers targeted specific molecular species and categorized them by their subclassification. The following lipids showed dramatic difference (Log 2 fold change) between untreated samples to Macrocystis pyrifera ferment treated samples:
• (Increase) OAHFAs, wax esters (WE), triglycerides (TG), diacylglycerides (DG),
• (Decrease) Monoacylglycerides, phospholipids, phosphatidic acids, phosphatidylcholine and phosphatidylethanolamines.
Overall, the decrease in phospholipids and the increase in neutral lipid classes (Figure 4. 1-see slider above) indicate an enhancement of epidermal differentiation and lipid metabolism. (Image 2)
This phenomenon was also acknowledged within the same lipid subclasses, as precursor monoacylglycerides shifted to diacylglycerides and triglycerides. Triglycerides are one of the main components of skin barrier lipids, and their metabolism plays a critical role in barrier functionality* (Figure 4 2-see slider above). Franz P.W. et al, 2011
• Enhancement of lipid mediators that support repair: The resolution of irritation also relies on lipids, called lipid mediators. These lipid mediators actively help quell irritation and help the site return to homeostasis. As skin ages, it delays the resolution of irritation, leading to tissue damage as breakage in collagen or elastin and accelerates the aging process.
Macrocystis pyrifera ferment strongly induced pro-resolution lipid precursors, 15-HETE and 17-HDOHE, suggesting the ferment helped support the 15-Lipoxygenase enzyme that produces these lipid mediators.
Cells were pre-treated, in vitro, with Macrocystis pyrifera ferment for 24 hours prior to the stimulation with cell-stimulation reagents. After 1 hour of stimulation, the amount of pro-resolution lipids precursors generated from the cells was analyzed.
Observations
“For the first time, through lipidomics analysis, we measured how the skin lipidome reacts upon intervention with our Macrocystis pyrifera ferment. We continue to explore a deeper mechanistic understanding of skin and develop new approaches to uncover new beneficial activities of our Macrocystis pyrifera ferment to meet various aging concerns,” said Emmetsberger.According to Emmetsberger, lipidomic analysis will help uncover if Macrocystis pyrifera ferment helps regulate various lipids impacted by age or different environmental factors.
“By understanding how Macrocystis pyrifera ferment affects lipid biology under different conditions, we can further discover Macrocystis pyriferaferment's mechanism and its impact in preventing skin damage, enhancing skin repair, and boosting energy, thereby reducing the visible signs of skin aging,” she said.
According to Emmetsberger, topical application of lipids is beneficial, “but it is superficial and is limited by the certain types of lipids or lipid mixtures within a given application.”
Macrocystis pyrifera ferment, she said, reinforces the complex process of natural production of barrier-associated lipids—“where lipids found in the lower layers of the skin are used as building blocks, or precursors, to generate intermediate lipids and, eventually, complex barrier lipids.”
Emmetsberger continued, “Macrocystis pyrifera ferment also helps regulate biologically active lipids that play a role in cell signaling. Inflammation becomes more prevalent with age and, when unregulated, can accelerate skin aging. We have found that Macrocystis pyrifera ferment helps decrease inflammatory lipids that lead to irritated skin while boosting lipids that help resolve irritation.”