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    Supplier's Corner

    Niacinamide Salicylate from BotanicalsPlus

    A complex for sensitive, acne-prone skin.

    Niacinamide Salicylate from BotanicalsPlus
    A volunteer applied a serum containing 4% BP―SA Niacinamide Salicylate Complex on her acne lesions twice a day for 2 weeks. An improvement of the appearance of the lesions was observed. Image courtesy of BotanicalsPlus.
    07.23.19
    Niacinamide (called nicotinamide) is a water-soluble, B-Vitamin which functions in cosmetic formulations as a hair and skin conditioning agent or anti-inflammatory agent. It can reduce the redness, dryness and irritation caused by bacteria that live in the clogged pores of pimples. The main benefits of niacinamide in cosmetic applications are anti-acne, anti-inflammation and reduction of hyperpigmentation. Salicylic acid has been introduced in various cosmetic products based on its different effects on the skin. Historically, it has been used to improve xerotic and scaly skin conditions. The main benefits of salicylic acid in cosmetic applications are anti-acne, anti-microbial and keratolytic.
     
    Product Information
    BotanicalsPlus developed a unique complex of niacinamide and salicylic acid by forming a pre-neutralized inner salt of the two molecules and then rapidly spray-drying the two molecules at a 1:1 ratio with a small amount (1%) of a polysaccharide encapsulant. We call this BP-SA Niacinamide Salicylate Complex.
     
    Advantages of BP-SA Niacinamide Salicylate Complex
    Pre-neutralization to form the inner salt and encapsulation allows for creating a complex that is highly water-soluble (up to 50% in water) without the re-crystallization of salicylic acid. The complexation of niacinamide with salicylic acid through prior formation of the inner salt helps to stabilize the niacinamide against hydrolysis. The inner salt, while offering a “pre-neutralized” salicylic acid, does not significantly reduce the efficacy of the salicylic acid as a keralytic agent. The complex also brings along the significant benefits of niacinamide unlike neutralization with NaOH or amines.
     
    Difficulties Formulating with Niacinamide and Salicylic Acid
    Niacinamide is known to be sensitive to hydrolysis. If niacinamide hydrolyzes, it provides an “amine” odor which is easily detectable by the human nose. Salicylic acid has solubility concerns in water and must be neutralized (NaOH, amines) to attain adequate water solubility, but when neutralized, it may lose some of its potency. Un-neutralized salicylic acid is prone to re-crystallization in formulations.
     
    Conclusion
    Overall, SA Niacinamide Salicylate Complex is an effective ingredient in the treatment of sensitive skin, acne-prone skin and uneven skin with hyperpigmentation. It is an effective multi-functional ingredient for compromised, fatigued, aged and uneven skin. Its key benefits include:
    
    • Reduced sebum production
    • Reduced inflammation
    • Reduced hyperpigmentation
    • Anti-inflammatory properties
    • Reduced hyper-keratinization of sebaceous ducts
    • Reduced bacterial count
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