Melissa Meisel, Associate Editor12.05.14
Active ingredients are, well, active! They can do anything from erase years off the face, protect skin from the sun, regenerate cells or lighten pigmentation, noted Dr. Eric Schweiger, founding dermatologist at Schweiger Dermatology Group, New York, NY. Today, these beauty-boosting benefits aren’t limited to the derm’s office; they can be found on department store counters, drugstore shelves and mass merchandiser aisles.
Mass market skin care sales were flat at $3.5 billion for the 52-week period ending Oct. 5, 2014 (supermarkets, drugstores, mass market retailers, military commissaries and select club and dollar retail chains), according to IRI, a Chicago-based market research firm. Although acne treatment sales stayed flat at $624.9 million, fade/bleach products rose 4.1% to $79.3 million and facial cleansers increased 3.6% to $1.0 billion—proving consumers still have OTC needs and demand face washes that deliver on claims like exfoliating.
However, facial anti-aging product sales fell 2.5% to $1.2 billion, body anti-aging product sales fell 7.7% to $25.4 million and depilatories slipped 2.7% to $169.4 million. In the hand and body lotion category, sales rose 3.6% to $1.8 billion, according to IRI.
Prestige skin care sales in the US increased 4% to $840 million in the third quarter from July-September 2014, according to recent findings from The NPD Group, Port Washington, NY. Facial skin care accounts for the majority of total prestige skin care sales in the US and Europe, and plays a role in the direction of the overall category. US consumers also place an emphasis on the face. In addition to anti-aging, sales of facial products targeting cleansing, hydration, anti-acne and toning have increased compared over the past year.
“The skin care industry has an opportunity to continue to grow and evolve with this, and other budding categories, through innovative product offerings and messaging,” said Karen Grant, vice president and senior global industry analyst, The NPD Group, Inc. “As we’ve seen with masks, new offerings can be a complement to existing products in a skin care regimen. Creating this connection, addressing the desire for immediacy as well as long-term results, ultimately benefits the total skin care business.”
Most women also want to see a noticeable “glow” on their skin. If a product can provide that, people are usually happy, observed Dr. Elizabeth Tanzi, co-director of the Washington Institute of Dermatologic Laser Surgery in Washington, DC.
Active ingredients such as peptides, botanical extracts and antioxidants are also popular right now in skin care, noted Jeff Murad, vice president of new product development, Murad, El Segundo, CA.
“We are seeing a trend toward using ingredients to boost the skin’s natural healing processes—such as stimulating the skin’s production of endogenous antioxidants, or boosting natural hyaluronic acid as opposed to or in addition to simply applying synthetic hyaluronic acid to the skin,” he explained, adding that the skin brightening trend that began in Asia is gaining ground in the West as well.
Shoppers want it all, they want it now and they want it without “issues,” added Dr. Craig Kraffert, president of Amarte, San Francisco. “Consumers are looking for products that brighten, tighten, smooth, refine, perfect and protect,” he said. “Because of this consumer mindset, setting proper expectations is important. There are limits to what even the best skin care products can accomplish.”
Anti-Aging Innovations
Actives that aim to turn back the clock still capture the lion’s share of skin care launches this season, as seen in recent rollouts in both drugstores and department stores. Inspired by years of research in skin cell biology, the latest creation at L’Oréal is the L’Oréal Paris Age Perfect Cell Renewal Collection—formulated to aid in stimulating surface skin cell renewal at a time when the natural action is most prone to begin diminishing on its own. The formulas contain cicer arietnimum seed extract and vigna aconitifolia seed extract, which are naturally derived ingredients known to boost energy metabolism of the epidermis and, in turn, help stimulate skin’s renewal, according to the company. The range consists of a day cream, serum and night cream.
In 2011, Estée Lauder developed Revitalizing Supreme Global Anti-Aging Creme to address a specific “modern woman’s desire” for an advanced multi-tasking skin care creme. Now, the company brings the benefits of this face creme to the eye area, with the introduction of its Revitalizing Supreme Global Anti-Aging Eye Balm. Leveraging the unprecedented combination of Estée Lauder’s proprietary IntuiGen Technology to revitalize the look of skin, an exclusive new Triple Nourishing Complex to nourish the eye area and an advanced SIRT-1 Technology to rejuvenate the look of skin, Revitalizing Supreme Global Anti-Aging Eye Balm is said to significantly reduces the look of multiple key signs of aging around the eye area. Inspired by research in the field of epigenetics, Estée Lauder’s potent IntuiGen Technology supports skin’s natural activation of Nrf2. Naturally derived from black bamboo extract, this innovative technology helps support skin cells in their natural age-resisting functions. The company also introduced Re-Nutriv Ultimate Diamond Sculpting/Refinishing Dual Infusion. Two elixirs, sealed apart to preserve intense potency, come together upon application to dramatically transform every facet of skin for a more sculpted, more refined, more luminous look. In the Golden Vial, a black diamond truffle extract is ingeniously blended with an extraordinary technology breakthrough that helps preserve and restore skin density, suppleness and bounce. In the Platinum Vial, a high potency blend of skin refinishers gently resurfaces, retextures and smoothes skin.
Other Estée Lauder mainstays churning out innovations with actives this season include Elemis and Clinique. Elemis Pro-Collagen Marine Cream Ultra Rich, which debuted last month, is clinically proven to intensely moisturize skin for up to 24 hours and reduce the depth of wrinkles and improve skin firmness, tone and hydration in just 15 days. Featuring the unique marine algae padina pavonica and rich in moisturizing and restructuring essential fatty acids, amino acids, vitamins (B1, B2, B12, C, E) and free radical scavengers, such as ginko biloba, the driest and most dehydrated of skin is left nourished and comforted, contends the company. Meanwhile, in the new year, Clinique is set to launch Repairwear Sculpting Night Cream for the face and neck. It boasts “8 potent ingredients in 8 weeks to a more sculpted look” in the campaign. Actives include numerous extracts: Centella asiatica, Coleus barbatus and white birch.
Competitor Peter Thomas Roth is bulking up its Un-Wrinkle range with Un-Wrinkle Fast-Acting Serum. According to the company, this targeted wrinkle treatment effectively smoothes, fills, plumps and diffuses the appearance of deep wrinkles and fine lines. Active 5% Snail Conopeptide mimics the potent muscle-relaxing effect of cone snail venom to gently and visibly freeze the look of the most stubborn deep wrinkles. The formula includes Inyline at 5%, SNAP-8 at 10% and Argilene at 5%.
Other launches from the brand are a 24K Gold Pure Luxury Lift & Firm Mask, infused with pure 24K gold and colloidal gold to help lift and firm skin and impart an opulent, holiday-worthy glow, caffeine helps tighten and firm the appearance of skin while peridot, a gemstone rich in magnesium, re-energizes and helps reduce the aging effects of stress; as well as a Mega-Rich Anti-Aging Sleeping Mask fueled by Proprietary Firma-CELL-4 which contains four different molecular size peptides: Syn-Coll, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Palmitoyl Oligopeptide and neuropeptide Argireline to help firm, tone, smooth and clarify the look of skin, reducing the appearance of fine lines and the severity of deep wrinkles for younger looking skin. Sepi-Calm S helps reduce irritation. And for those who want to carry autumn flavors into the winter, the Pumpkin Enzyme Mask exfoliates with pumpkin enzyme, peels with alpha hydroxy acid and polishes with aluminum oxide.
Men’s line Anthony also incorporates active acids into its newest SKU, Anthony High Performance Glycolic Serum. This anti-aging and lifting serum is infused with three key peptides that work to instantly plump and relax deep lines and wrinkles. Buffered AHAs work to correct the appearance of sagging skin and improve the skin’s overall health and texture, according to the company. Algae extract helps repair and hydrate to jumpstart the skin’s rejuvenation process, as cell turnover rate slows with age.
“This is the process in which our skin cells travel from the lowest layer of our epidermis to the top most superficial layer, to be shed. When we are teens, cells turn over approximately every 21 to 28 days. As we age, it slows down to 30 to 40 days and over the age of 50, it can even take 40 to 80 days,” explained Dr. Debbie Palmer, dermatologist and founder of Replere Skincare, Greenwich, CT. “This slower skin cell turnover allows dead skin cells to accumulate on the surface of our skin, giving it a dull appearance. That’s why daily exfoliation is so important.”
Palmer’s company utilizes exfoliating actives such as alpha- and beta-hydroxy acids and salicylic acid in its Replere Deep Clean & Clarify Face Wash and Replere Pore Minimize & Mattify Skin Tonic.
Avon is also amping up its anti-aging offerings with the Anew Vitale collection. Billed as the first-ever skin care line developed with Avon’s groundbreaking VitaTone Complex Technology, a unique and exclusive blend of patented and patent-pending active ingredients and peptides, it is said to help combat the visible effects of stress and fatigue on skin, even skin tone and improve skin’s vitality. The Anew Vitale Cleanser, Night Cream, Day Cream with SPF 25 and Eye Gel Cream are formulated to deliver a boost of the VitaTone Complex for even-toned, radiant, vibrant-looking skin in just one week. The appearance of dullness and fatigue virtually disappears.
The company also recently launched Anew Clinical Absolute Even Dark Circle Corrector, formulated with Shadow Erase Complex Technology and includes ingredients like kudzu root extract and fennel fruit extract.
In anti-aging formulations, the most popular actives are the ones that create fast plumping effects in the epidermis. According to Ben Johnson, MD, CEO, Osmosis Pur Medical Skincare based in Evergreen, CO, these include most peptides, glycosaminoglycans and inflammation-inducing ingredients like AHAs.
“Consumers have become accustomed to rapid visible results and continue to buy these products on the false story that they actually make the skin younger because the epidermal plumping makes them think the ‘science’ must be working,” he told Happi. “The benefit is a temporary improvement in fine lines primarily. Skin health is not affected.”
We all know that retinol has long been a go-to ingredient for skin-perfecting and anti-aging properties. Exuviance has upped the ante on a retinol formulation with the invention of Super Retinol Concentrate, specifically created to defy gravity for superior, visible lifting and firming results. Super Retinol Concentrate features patented NeoGlucosamine, clinically proven to work synergistically with retinol, amplifying results while delivering a gradual, time-released infusion of pure retinol in a microencapsulated form for maximum benefits with minimized irritation.
Retinol is back in the spotlight, thanks to the newest Mary Kay TimeWise Repair innovation that combines the power of encapsulated retinol, the visible plumping action of encapsulated hyaluronic acid, and flexible elastomers to deliver a variety of benefits. According to Mary Kay, Volu-Fill Deep Wrinkle Filler significantly impacts the appearance of all six wrinkle zones: forehead creases, between-the-brow creases, crow’s feet, smile lines, vertical lip lines and marionette lines. Encapsulated hyaluronic acid acts as a moisture magnet, to help deep wrinkles appear visibly plumped.
Whether it’s loss of firmness or an aging complexion, powerful active ingredients are delivered to skin via Le Mieux’s new facial serums. Formulated with hyaluronic acid, rather than water, as a base, each serum plumps and moisturizes due to the ingredient binding water molecules up to 1,000 times its weight. The brand’s Transform & Perfect Retinol Serum features 0.5% retinol to resurface and tighten, macadamia nut oil to help calm, soothe, hydrate and tone, and ceramides and botanical extracts to soothe and restore suppleness.
Discoloration And Acne
Fading dark spots and busting bumps are also a key driver in the skin care market—and once again, actives are imperative. In mass, Olay is leading the way with its new ProX By Olay Nightly Purifying Micro-Peel. Guided by the skin dermatology expertise of the ProX Global Derm Alliance and leveraging research from Olay’s Genomics analysis of young skin to aged skin, the ProX by Olay Nightly Purifying Micro-Peel was created to tighten and renew skin nightly thus delivering healthier, younger-looking skin over time. This triple-acid (glycolic, lactic and citric) micropeel gently strips away dead, dull surface layers in a one-step product.
P&G is also set to roll out an Olay Regenerist Luminous Overnight Mask. Unlike a typical peel-off mask, this gel treatment absorbs into the surface of skin working throughout the night to even tone at the surface cell level.
Also big at stores like CVS/pharmacy is Lumene, and its latest rollout is Lumene Bright Now Visible Repair Tone Corrector. The formula is said to brighten skin on application with light-diffusing pigments that reveal skin’s radiance while evening tone. Part of the new anti-aging Lumene Bright Now Visible Repair line, the serum provides anti-aging through unique cloudberry stem cell technology developed from the Arctic Cloudberry, a powerful Arctic resource rich in antioxidants. The Lumene Bright Now Visible Repair Tone Corrector brightens the skin and lightens dark spots with octadecenediodic acid, a safe skin brightening agent, which regulates melanin production, while light-diffusing pigments give your skin an immediate glow.
In the prestige channel, Estée Lauder’s new Nutritious Rosy Prism is billed as the world’s first high-performance ritual proven to visibly reduce and help prevent the look of a yellow skintone. It is fueled by proprietary new Rosy Prism Technology featuring pink peony extract as well as antioxidant-rich pomegranate nectar.
Targeting the rising mask-buying clientele, Dr. Jart presents Dr. Jart+ Prescriptment Masks, a range of five specialized sheet masks individually designed to treat common skin care concerns: dehydration, sagging, dullness, blackheads and enlarged pores. Harnessing the power of actives, the Brightening Infusion Mask moisturizes and brightens due to its hydrogel design that allows for ingredients such as galactomyces fermented extract and brightening vitamin C derivatives to quickly absorb into the skin, also improving complexion and skin texture. Also from Dr. Jart is Pore Minimalist Mask that addresses pimples, enlarged pores and excess sebum production. The black charcoal sheet mask contains gentle purifying active ingredients such as sulfur, Korean charcoal and Moroccan lava clay to deeply cleanse and draw out impurities without causing irritation, while additional herbal extracts tighten and purify pores to complete the treatment. The three-ply structure also effectively adheres and removes sebum, allowing the serum to penetrate deeper into the skin.
Valeant Pharmaceuticals OTC brand Acne Free-has expanded its current roster of cleansing and treatment products with three new additions: AcneFree Energizing Acne Wash & Scrub, AcneFree Energizing Acne Cleanser and AcneFree Energizing 3-in-1 Acne Wipes. Each oil-free product features orange and mint extracts, and citrus (orange peel oil) to energize senses and help clear acne, said the company. But the secret weapon in the formulations for the scrubs and the cleanser (not the wipes) is 2.5% Advanced Micro-Benzoyl Peroxide. It’s micro-encapsulated, which allows the benzoyl peroxide to continuously release over time.
This means the acne treatment medication penetrates deeply into pores and works longer than traditional benzoyl peroxide.
With increasingly busy lifestyles, it’s not just the ingredients, but the sum of their parts, that are big in skin care right now.
“Obviously BB and CC Creams have spoken to consumer’s desire to have products that offer multiple benefits—and are truly efficacious on each of their multi-step claims,” said Tyler Steele, AVP-marketing, La Roche-Posay, New York, NY. “A high demand persists for single or multipurpose products offering improved skin hydration or general anti-aging benefits.”
Steele noted that consumers are looking for multifunctional actives, which deliver both immediate effects and sustained, long-term results.
“Daily preventative treatments containing UV filters or antioxidants, or both, remain important,” he added. “Because immediate results are always desired in beauty, light reflecting technologies that immediately blur skin imperfections and create a flawless looking complexion remain popular.”
Targeting those with rosacea, La-Roche Posay’s newest creation is Rosaliac CC Cream, featuring active Ingredients octinoxate 3%, octisalate 3.5%, octocrylene 4.5% and titanium dioxide 6.2%. It is billed as the first OTC redness-correcting CC cream.
Dry skin? Bring it on. Repêchage Vita Cura Triple Action Nutrí Créme With Phyto Actives contains proprietary EcoCert seaweed extracts with 18 amino acids, 12 vitamins and 42 trace elements and minerals that enrich the skin to help smooth the appearance of wrinkles. Glycolic acid reveals younger-looking skin, while organic aloe vera soothes and calms.
“Consumers are looking for natural ingredients to address common skin concerns, and treat their skin type,” noted Lydia Sarfati, Repêchage CEO and founder, Secaucus, NJ. “Seaweed is wonderful, as it contains hydrating properties and is great for all skin types. And peptides are great for those looking for a natural way to target those unwanted fine lines and wrinkles.”
Arbonne is “boosting” its active body care offerings with the new Intelligence Genius Booster Serum for Body. According to the company, this lightweight, concentrated serum absorbs quickly to hydrate, illuminate and improve the look of skin firmness. The high-performance formula includes a PBR+ complex, a mix of Arbonne’s proprietary phytinol, bakuchiol and retinoid, that brightens skin and keeps it looking refreshed and toned. Add a few drops to your favorite body moisturizer to boost benefits or use this luxurious serum by itself to enhance skin’s natural radiance, according to Arbonne.
“Active ingredients in demand include plant actives that help regulate our natural biological pathway for certain desired effects. Some examples include wanting healthier, less wrinkled skin, vibrant hair and a stronger body at a cellular, genomic level,” said Arbonne chief scientific officer Dr. Peter Matravers, PharmD, Irvine, CA. “We introduced Arbonne Intelligence Genius Booster Serum for Body that includes key actives from a fraction of alfalfa and chicory (to create a retinoid effect that would otherwise require synthetic retinol) and the active bakuchiol, which is from the bakuchi seed. This product is a great example of the use of actives from plants that can deliver results in a retinoid formula — in great demand in the skin care arena.”
Looking into 2015
Continued innovation is key when it comes to the future of actives. According to Matravers of Arbonne, demand will be for a more biological, multi-pathway approach to product development.
“Instead of localized, spot treatment, such as bleaching a portion of skin to make it lighter, consumers will look for a bigger picture approach,” he explained. “This means creating products that signal various parts of the body system, inside and out, to perform results and renew problem areas.”
According to Palmer of Replere, natural antioxidants remain on-trend, but in more potent forms and in combination with other products that we use daily—makeup, lotions, creams, shampoo, conditioners, and hairspray, to name a few.
Murad agrees that multifunctional products will lead the way in skin care—a trend that began with BB creams and continues to grow and spread to other product categories.
Schweiger of Schweiger Dermatology Group sees power in peptides. He told Happi, “I think we can see a strong focus on peptides as an anti-aging ingredient. They help produce collagen in the skin, which is a building block of youthful skin.”
All in all, trends follow the ever-changing needs of the consumer. According to Steele of La Roche-Posay, when it comes to skin care actives, formulations that target pollution and environmental assaults such as weather, pollution and free radicals are becoming a priority, particular in Asian markets.
“The emergence of novel blends of antioxidants offer potential for synergistic effects in both preventative and restorative aging,” he explained. “Natural plant-derived extract innovations are still evolving in areas of anti-aging, pigmentation and hydration.”
In the queue for FDA approval, he noted, are new UV filters that promise additional advancements for daily photo protection and sun care products.
Mass market skin care sales were flat at $3.5 billion for the 52-week period ending Oct. 5, 2014 (supermarkets, drugstores, mass market retailers, military commissaries and select club and dollar retail chains), according to IRI, a Chicago-based market research firm. Although acne treatment sales stayed flat at $624.9 million, fade/bleach products rose 4.1% to $79.3 million and facial cleansers increased 3.6% to $1.0 billion—proving consumers still have OTC needs and demand face washes that deliver on claims like exfoliating.
However, facial anti-aging product sales fell 2.5% to $1.2 billion, body anti-aging product sales fell 7.7% to $25.4 million and depilatories slipped 2.7% to $169.4 million. In the hand and body lotion category, sales rose 3.6% to $1.8 billion, according to IRI.
Prestige skin care sales in the US increased 4% to $840 million in the third quarter from July-September 2014, according to recent findings from The NPD Group, Port Washington, NY. Facial skin care accounts for the majority of total prestige skin care sales in the US and Europe, and plays a role in the direction of the overall category. US consumers also place an emphasis on the face. In addition to anti-aging, sales of facial products targeting cleansing, hydration, anti-acne and toning have increased compared over the past year.
“The skin care industry has an opportunity to continue to grow and evolve with this, and other budding categories, through innovative product offerings and messaging,” said Karen Grant, vice president and senior global industry analyst, The NPD Group, Inc. “As we’ve seen with masks, new offerings can be a complement to existing products in a skin care regimen. Creating this connection, addressing the desire for immediacy as well as long-term results, ultimately benefits the total skin care business.”
Most women also want to see a noticeable “glow” on their skin. If a product can provide that, people are usually happy, observed Dr. Elizabeth Tanzi, co-director of the Washington Institute of Dermatologic Laser Surgery in Washington, DC.
Active ingredients such as peptides, botanical extracts and antioxidants are also popular right now in skin care, noted Jeff Murad, vice president of new product development, Murad, El Segundo, CA.
“We are seeing a trend toward using ingredients to boost the skin’s natural healing processes—such as stimulating the skin’s production of endogenous antioxidants, or boosting natural hyaluronic acid as opposed to or in addition to simply applying synthetic hyaluronic acid to the skin,” he explained, adding that the skin brightening trend that began in Asia is gaining ground in the West as well.
Shoppers want it all, they want it now and they want it without “issues,” added Dr. Craig Kraffert, president of Amarte, San Francisco. “Consumers are looking for products that brighten, tighten, smooth, refine, perfect and protect,” he said. “Because of this consumer mindset, setting proper expectations is important. There are limits to what even the best skin care products can accomplish.”
Anti-Aging Innovations
Actives that aim to turn back the clock still capture the lion’s share of skin care launches this season, as seen in recent rollouts in both drugstores and department stores. Inspired by years of research in skin cell biology, the latest creation at L’Oréal is the L’Oréal Paris Age Perfect Cell Renewal Collection—formulated to aid in stimulating surface skin cell renewal at a time when the natural action is most prone to begin diminishing on its own. The formulas contain cicer arietnimum seed extract and vigna aconitifolia seed extract, which are naturally derived ingredients known to boost energy metabolism of the epidermis and, in turn, help stimulate skin’s renewal, according to the company. The range consists of a day cream, serum and night cream.
In 2011, Estée Lauder developed Revitalizing Supreme Global Anti-Aging Creme to address a specific “modern woman’s desire” for an advanced multi-tasking skin care creme. Now, the company brings the benefits of this face creme to the eye area, with the introduction of its Revitalizing Supreme Global Anti-Aging Eye Balm. Leveraging the unprecedented combination of Estée Lauder’s proprietary IntuiGen Technology to revitalize the look of skin, an exclusive new Triple Nourishing Complex to nourish the eye area and an advanced SIRT-1 Technology to rejuvenate the look of skin, Revitalizing Supreme Global Anti-Aging Eye Balm is said to significantly reduces the look of multiple key signs of aging around the eye area. Inspired by research in the field of epigenetics, Estée Lauder’s potent IntuiGen Technology supports skin’s natural activation of Nrf2. Naturally derived from black bamboo extract, this innovative technology helps support skin cells in their natural age-resisting functions. The company also introduced Re-Nutriv Ultimate Diamond Sculpting/Refinishing Dual Infusion. Two elixirs, sealed apart to preserve intense potency, come together upon application to dramatically transform every facet of skin for a more sculpted, more refined, more luminous look. In the Golden Vial, a black diamond truffle extract is ingeniously blended with an extraordinary technology breakthrough that helps preserve and restore skin density, suppleness and bounce. In the Platinum Vial, a high potency blend of skin refinishers gently resurfaces, retextures and smoothes skin.
Other Estée Lauder mainstays churning out innovations with actives this season include Elemis and Clinique. Elemis Pro-Collagen Marine Cream Ultra Rich, which debuted last month, is clinically proven to intensely moisturize skin for up to 24 hours and reduce the depth of wrinkles and improve skin firmness, tone and hydration in just 15 days. Featuring the unique marine algae padina pavonica and rich in moisturizing and restructuring essential fatty acids, amino acids, vitamins (B1, B2, B12, C, E) and free radical scavengers, such as ginko biloba, the driest and most dehydrated of skin is left nourished and comforted, contends the company. Meanwhile, in the new year, Clinique is set to launch Repairwear Sculpting Night Cream for the face and neck. It boasts “8 potent ingredients in 8 weeks to a more sculpted look” in the campaign. Actives include numerous extracts: Centella asiatica, Coleus barbatus and white birch.
Competitor Peter Thomas Roth is bulking up its Un-Wrinkle range with Un-Wrinkle Fast-Acting Serum. According to the company, this targeted wrinkle treatment effectively smoothes, fills, plumps and diffuses the appearance of deep wrinkles and fine lines. Active 5% Snail Conopeptide mimics the potent muscle-relaxing effect of cone snail venom to gently and visibly freeze the look of the most stubborn deep wrinkles. The formula includes Inyline at 5%, SNAP-8 at 10% and Argilene at 5%.
Other launches from the brand are a 24K Gold Pure Luxury Lift & Firm Mask, infused with pure 24K gold and colloidal gold to help lift and firm skin and impart an opulent, holiday-worthy glow, caffeine helps tighten and firm the appearance of skin while peridot, a gemstone rich in magnesium, re-energizes and helps reduce the aging effects of stress; as well as a Mega-Rich Anti-Aging Sleeping Mask fueled by Proprietary Firma-CELL-4 which contains four different molecular size peptides: Syn-Coll, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Palmitoyl Oligopeptide and neuropeptide Argireline to help firm, tone, smooth and clarify the look of skin, reducing the appearance of fine lines and the severity of deep wrinkles for younger looking skin. Sepi-Calm S helps reduce irritation. And for those who want to carry autumn flavors into the winter, the Pumpkin Enzyme Mask exfoliates with pumpkin enzyme, peels with alpha hydroxy acid and polishes with aluminum oxide.
Men’s line Anthony also incorporates active acids into its newest SKU, Anthony High Performance Glycolic Serum. This anti-aging and lifting serum is infused with three key peptides that work to instantly plump and relax deep lines and wrinkles. Buffered AHAs work to correct the appearance of sagging skin and improve the skin’s overall health and texture, according to the company. Algae extract helps repair and hydrate to jumpstart the skin’s rejuvenation process, as cell turnover rate slows with age.
“This is the process in which our skin cells travel from the lowest layer of our epidermis to the top most superficial layer, to be shed. When we are teens, cells turn over approximately every 21 to 28 days. As we age, it slows down to 30 to 40 days and over the age of 50, it can even take 40 to 80 days,” explained Dr. Debbie Palmer, dermatologist and founder of Replere Skincare, Greenwich, CT. “This slower skin cell turnover allows dead skin cells to accumulate on the surface of our skin, giving it a dull appearance. That’s why daily exfoliation is so important.”
Palmer’s company utilizes exfoliating actives such as alpha- and beta-hydroxy acids and salicylic acid in its Replere Deep Clean & Clarify Face Wash and Replere Pore Minimize & Mattify Skin Tonic.
Avon is also amping up its anti-aging offerings with the Anew Vitale collection. Billed as the first-ever skin care line developed with Avon’s groundbreaking VitaTone Complex Technology, a unique and exclusive blend of patented and patent-pending active ingredients and peptides, it is said to help combat the visible effects of stress and fatigue on skin, even skin tone and improve skin’s vitality. The Anew Vitale Cleanser, Night Cream, Day Cream with SPF 25 and Eye Gel Cream are formulated to deliver a boost of the VitaTone Complex for even-toned, radiant, vibrant-looking skin in just one week. The appearance of dullness and fatigue virtually disappears.
The company also recently launched Anew Clinical Absolute Even Dark Circle Corrector, formulated with Shadow Erase Complex Technology and includes ingredients like kudzu root extract and fennel fruit extract.
In anti-aging formulations, the most popular actives are the ones that create fast plumping effects in the epidermis. According to Ben Johnson, MD, CEO, Osmosis Pur Medical Skincare based in Evergreen, CO, these include most peptides, glycosaminoglycans and inflammation-inducing ingredients like AHAs.
“Consumers have become accustomed to rapid visible results and continue to buy these products on the false story that they actually make the skin younger because the epidermal plumping makes them think the ‘science’ must be working,” he told Happi. “The benefit is a temporary improvement in fine lines primarily. Skin health is not affected.”
We all know that retinol has long been a go-to ingredient for skin-perfecting and anti-aging properties. Exuviance has upped the ante on a retinol formulation with the invention of Super Retinol Concentrate, specifically created to defy gravity for superior, visible lifting and firming results. Super Retinol Concentrate features patented NeoGlucosamine, clinically proven to work synergistically with retinol, amplifying results while delivering a gradual, time-released infusion of pure retinol in a microencapsulated form for maximum benefits with minimized irritation.
Retinol is back in the spotlight, thanks to the newest Mary Kay TimeWise Repair innovation that combines the power of encapsulated retinol, the visible plumping action of encapsulated hyaluronic acid, and flexible elastomers to deliver a variety of benefits. According to Mary Kay, Volu-Fill Deep Wrinkle Filler significantly impacts the appearance of all six wrinkle zones: forehead creases, between-the-brow creases, crow’s feet, smile lines, vertical lip lines and marionette lines. Encapsulated hyaluronic acid acts as a moisture magnet, to help deep wrinkles appear visibly plumped.
Whether it’s loss of firmness or an aging complexion, powerful active ingredients are delivered to skin via Le Mieux’s new facial serums. Formulated with hyaluronic acid, rather than water, as a base, each serum plumps and moisturizes due to the ingredient binding water molecules up to 1,000 times its weight. The brand’s Transform & Perfect Retinol Serum features 0.5% retinol to resurface and tighten, macadamia nut oil to help calm, soothe, hydrate and tone, and ceramides and botanical extracts to soothe and restore suppleness.
Discoloration And Acne
Fading dark spots and busting bumps are also a key driver in the skin care market—and once again, actives are imperative. In mass, Olay is leading the way with its new ProX By Olay Nightly Purifying Micro-Peel. Guided by the skin dermatology expertise of the ProX Global Derm Alliance and leveraging research from Olay’s Genomics analysis of young skin to aged skin, the ProX by Olay Nightly Purifying Micro-Peel was created to tighten and renew skin nightly thus delivering healthier, younger-looking skin over time. This triple-acid (glycolic, lactic and citric) micropeel gently strips away dead, dull surface layers in a one-step product.
P&G is also set to roll out an Olay Regenerist Luminous Overnight Mask. Unlike a typical peel-off mask, this gel treatment absorbs into the surface of skin working throughout the night to even tone at the surface cell level.
Also big at stores like CVS/pharmacy is Lumene, and its latest rollout is Lumene Bright Now Visible Repair Tone Corrector. The formula is said to brighten skin on application with light-diffusing pigments that reveal skin’s radiance while evening tone. Part of the new anti-aging Lumene Bright Now Visible Repair line, the serum provides anti-aging through unique cloudberry stem cell technology developed from the Arctic Cloudberry, a powerful Arctic resource rich in antioxidants. The Lumene Bright Now Visible Repair Tone Corrector brightens the skin and lightens dark spots with octadecenediodic acid, a safe skin brightening agent, which regulates melanin production, while light-diffusing pigments give your skin an immediate glow.
In the prestige channel, Estée Lauder’s new Nutritious Rosy Prism is billed as the world’s first high-performance ritual proven to visibly reduce and help prevent the look of a yellow skintone. It is fueled by proprietary new Rosy Prism Technology featuring pink peony extract as well as antioxidant-rich pomegranate nectar.
Targeting the rising mask-buying clientele, Dr. Jart presents Dr. Jart+ Prescriptment Masks, a range of five specialized sheet masks individually designed to treat common skin care concerns: dehydration, sagging, dullness, blackheads and enlarged pores. Harnessing the power of actives, the Brightening Infusion Mask moisturizes and brightens due to its hydrogel design that allows for ingredients such as galactomyces fermented extract and brightening vitamin C derivatives to quickly absorb into the skin, also improving complexion and skin texture. Also from Dr. Jart is Pore Minimalist Mask that addresses pimples, enlarged pores and excess sebum production. The black charcoal sheet mask contains gentle purifying active ingredients such as sulfur, Korean charcoal and Moroccan lava clay to deeply cleanse and draw out impurities without causing irritation, while additional herbal extracts tighten and purify pores to complete the treatment. The three-ply structure also effectively adheres and removes sebum, allowing the serum to penetrate deeper into the skin.
Valeant Pharmaceuticals OTC brand Acne Free-has expanded its current roster of cleansing and treatment products with three new additions: AcneFree Energizing Acne Wash & Scrub, AcneFree Energizing Acne Cleanser and AcneFree Energizing 3-in-1 Acne Wipes. Each oil-free product features orange and mint extracts, and citrus (orange peel oil) to energize senses and help clear acne, said the company. But the secret weapon in the formulations for the scrubs and the cleanser (not the wipes) is 2.5% Advanced Micro-Benzoyl Peroxide. It’s micro-encapsulated, which allows the benzoyl peroxide to continuously release over time.
This means the acne treatment medication penetrates deeply into pores and works longer than traditional benzoyl peroxide.
With increasingly busy lifestyles, it’s not just the ingredients, but the sum of their parts, that are big in skin care right now.
“Obviously BB and CC Creams have spoken to consumer’s desire to have products that offer multiple benefits—and are truly efficacious on each of their multi-step claims,” said Tyler Steele, AVP-marketing, La Roche-Posay, New York, NY. “A high demand persists for single or multipurpose products offering improved skin hydration or general anti-aging benefits.”
Steele noted that consumers are looking for multifunctional actives, which deliver both immediate effects and sustained, long-term results.
“Daily preventative treatments containing UV filters or antioxidants, or both, remain important,” he added. “Because immediate results are always desired in beauty, light reflecting technologies that immediately blur skin imperfections and create a flawless looking complexion remain popular.”
Targeting those with rosacea, La-Roche Posay’s newest creation is Rosaliac CC Cream, featuring active Ingredients octinoxate 3%, octisalate 3.5%, octocrylene 4.5% and titanium dioxide 6.2%. It is billed as the first OTC redness-correcting CC cream.
Dry skin? Bring it on. Repêchage Vita Cura Triple Action Nutrí Créme With Phyto Actives contains proprietary EcoCert seaweed extracts with 18 amino acids, 12 vitamins and 42 trace elements and minerals that enrich the skin to help smooth the appearance of wrinkles. Glycolic acid reveals younger-looking skin, while organic aloe vera soothes and calms.
“Consumers are looking for natural ingredients to address common skin concerns, and treat their skin type,” noted Lydia Sarfati, Repêchage CEO and founder, Secaucus, NJ. “Seaweed is wonderful, as it contains hydrating properties and is great for all skin types. And peptides are great for those looking for a natural way to target those unwanted fine lines and wrinkles.”
Arbonne is “boosting” its active body care offerings with the new Intelligence Genius Booster Serum for Body. According to the company, this lightweight, concentrated serum absorbs quickly to hydrate, illuminate and improve the look of skin firmness. The high-performance formula includes a PBR+ complex, a mix of Arbonne’s proprietary phytinol, bakuchiol and retinoid, that brightens skin and keeps it looking refreshed and toned. Add a few drops to your favorite body moisturizer to boost benefits or use this luxurious serum by itself to enhance skin’s natural radiance, according to Arbonne.
“Active ingredients in demand include plant actives that help regulate our natural biological pathway for certain desired effects. Some examples include wanting healthier, less wrinkled skin, vibrant hair and a stronger body at a cellular, genomic level,” said Arbonne chief scientific officer Dr. Peter Matravers, PharmD, Irvine, CA. “We introduced Arbonne Intelligence Genius Booster Serum for Body that includes key actives from a fraction of alfalfa and chicory (to create a retinoid effect that would otherwise require synthetic retinol) and the active bakuchiol, which is from the bakuchi seed. This product is a great example of the use of actives from plants that can deliver results in a retinoid formula — in great demand in the skin care arena.”
Looking into 2015
Continued innovation is key when it comes to the future of actives. According to Matravers of Arbonne, demand will be for a more biological, multi-pathway approach to product development.
“Instead of localized, spot treatment, such as bleaching a portion of skin to make it lighter, consumers will look for a bigger picture approach,” he explained. “This means creating products that signal various parts of the body system, inside and out, to perform results and renew problem areas.”
According to Palmer of Replere, natural antioxidants remain on-trend, but in more potent forms and in combination with other products that we use daily—makeup, lotions, creams, shampoo, conditioners, and hairspray, to name a few.
Murad agrees that multifunctional products will lead the way in skin care—a trend that began with BB creams and continues to grow and spread to other product categories.
Schweiger of Schweiger Dermatology Group sees power in peptides. He told Happi, “I think we can see a strong focus on peptides as an anti-aging ingredient. They help produce collagen in the skin, which is a building block of youthful skin.”
All in all, trends follow the ever-changing needs of the consumer. According to Steele of La Roche-Posay, when it comes to skin care actives, formulations that target pollution and environmental assaults such as weather, pollution and free radicals are becoming a priority, particular in Asian markets.
“The emergence of novel blends of antioxidants offer potential for synergistic effects in both preventative and restorative aging,” he explained. “Natural plant-derived extract innovations are still evolving in areas of anti-aging, pigmentation and hydration.”
In the queue for FDA approval, he noted, are new UV filters that promise additional advancements for daily photo protection and sun care products.
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• Consumers are seeking ingredients that can act as multitaskers in their skin care regimen. According to Dr. Carlos A. Charles, MD, founder, Derma Di Colore, New York, here are key actives for your next skin care formulation: Hyaluronic Acid is a natural-occurring polysaccharide found throughout the human body in areas as diverse as the joints, nerves, eyes and, of course, the skin. It has a viscous gelatinous consistency and works by attracting and holding water thereby conferring a soft cushion-like consistency wherever it lies. Hyaluronic acid (or HA) is present in abundance throughout the skin and it imparts a soft and supple quality. Vitamin C is a potent antioxidant that has been around in the skin care market for a while now, but its unique ability to truly act as a multitasker has kept it in the conversation. Vitamin C confers a wide-array of benefits to the skin including fading dark spots, stimulating collagen production, warding off free radical damage and protecting against damaging UV rays. Vitamin E is another potent antioxidant that helps to protect the skin from antioxidant stress and can also help deter collagen breakdown. Vitamin E works best synergistically with vitamin C. Retinol/retinoids are potent derivatives of vitamin A that should be the cornerstone of any anti-aging regimen. Retinols, and stronger prescription-strength retinoids, work to increase cell turnover, diminish fine lines and can help to minimize hyperpigmentation. |
