11.09.05
Consumers want the best products, naturally. Industry suppliers agree that consumers have been the major push behind the green trend due to such factors as health warnings, environmental concerns and organic attitudes. Until recently, little research had been done on herbals as topical solutions. Yet the market has increased by leaps and bounds in the past five years. Growth within the natural personal care products industry is nearly three times the rate of the personal care market, according to industry experts. “Historically, there has not been much research in botanicals, but market growth is phenomenal,” said Darin Duber Smith, marketing director, Draco Natural Products, San Jose, CA. “Personal care products generally experience a growth rate of 10% per year. Natural personal care products, however, are expected to grow 25% a year for the next five years.”
Due to the recent foot-and-mouth disease outbreak in Europe, consumers are moving away
“A rise in naturals is related to the Mad Cow disease scare, where tallow is being replaced with vegetable oils in skin care products,” said Bob Dolce, sales representative, Welch, Holme & Clark, Newark, NJ. “Most countries require a purity code—no bovine products. And people are becoming more aware of what they are using in their personal care products.”
The disease scares have only strengthened a prevailing trend across the world toward alternative medicines and products pro-moting a healthier, more spiritual lifestyle.
“Consumer demand, the dow-nturn of pharmaceuticals and the popularity of allopathic alternatives that originate from a natural source are driving the market,” observed Greg Dutka, vice president of marketing and corporate development, Fytokem, Saskatoon, SK, Canada. “Consumers are more educated and aware of the potency of natural materials and products. There is a desire on both ends, manufacturer and consumer, for all-natural solutions to meet this demand.”
Health Canada, the European Union, the U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA) and the National Institute of Health in the U.S. are studying the medicinal possibilities of extracts to determine if they have anti-cancer or anti-inflammatory effects.
“The draw to the natural industries has a lot to do with advertised research and studies,” opined Mary Ann Sicili-ano, national sales manager, Arista Industries, Wilton, CT. “With diseases such as cancer, people are told that if they avoid certain things, it’ll help.”
Recent studies have shown that many natural ingredients are as effective as synthetics and chemicals, executives said. Natural product consumers, for example, prefer to use shea butter or canola oil as lotion bases. Yet not just any natural ingredient will make it if it is a copycat of an existing product.
“The boom in the market is based on two things—interest in naturals and a constant need for innovation,” said Ed Matson, vice president, marketing, Carrubba Flavors and Fragrances, Milford, CT. “Industry executives look for efficacy and newness when developing ingredients. And if the ingredient can deliver both things naturally, that is a huge bonus. We’ve only just scratched the surface.”
Only about 1% of the population insists on using only natural products, according to Robert Brown, vice president of the fragrance division at South Bend, IN-based Lebermuth Co., Inc., but the fad has caught on with those who are also mildly concerned about synthetics.
“There are more people than ever who care about the environment, burn soot-free candles and use natural products—more so than 10 years ago,” said Mr. Brown. “The number of people in this market is not huge, but more and more people are turning to this lifestyle.”
Magical Herbs
There is no doubt botanicals are hot in the industry, but there are certain herbs and extracts that have made headlines, or rather label lines, very recently. Most of them are found in skin or hair care products and have demonstrated functionality, mostly antioxidant and anti-aging capabilities, such as soy seed (glycine soja), green tea (camellia sinesis), ginkgo biloba leaves and grapeseed (vitis vinefera) extracts, according to Carrubba executives. But as every industry veteran knows, surprises are always around the corner.
“There is one derivative budding on the horizon—milk thistle seed (silybum marianum),” said Mr. Matson. “It is quite similar to green tea as a UV protectant and anti-aging ingredient.”
Mr. Matson noted that Case Western University researchers found similarities between green tea and milk thistle when conducting efficacy tests. Both are powerful antioxidants and free radical scavengers. Studies have shown mice with topically applied milk thistle had 77% fewer sunburn cells when exposed to UVB light as compared to the control group, he said.
Like milk thistle, green tea extract is a UVB protector that prevents DNA damage caused by the sun, according to Draco’s Mr. Duber Smith.
“UVB rays are not addressed by sunblock yet cause long-term damage,” said Mr. Duber Smith. “These rays are missed because of the over-confidence of UV blockers. Herbal ingredients cannot be used as sunblock alone, but would be great if added to an SPF product.”
Most herbal actives in the market are found in skin care products. Grapeseed is perhaps the most widely studied antioxidant; it protects collagen and elastin, said Mr. Duber Smith. Sand root (adenophora stricta) improves extremely dry, itchy skin aggravated by the cold and wind. Sophora flavescens is another anti-itching agent available from Draco. Draco researchers also note that kelp, ava pui moni, oat seed and oat straw are effective skin antioxidants.
“There has been a big push in the cosmetic realm for anti-aging products,” said Fytokem’s Mr. Dutka. “The two areas of particular interest are fine lines and wrinkles.”
Fytokem identified the need for collagen repair and age spot lightening products in the marketplace. Using its proprietary screening program, or enzyme assay, the company tested more than 400 extracts collected from the Canadian prairie and northern forest regions. Fytokem discovered which plants provided the best benefits. Then the company developed a prototype product to examine color, odor and performance. As a result, an elastase enzyme inhibitor for collagen was developed to reduce the appearance of fine lines. It will be released later this year. The name of the product was not disclosed at press time.
“When developing any of our products, we make sure they have long-term benefits,” explained Mr. Dutka. “The elastase enzyme can be used in combination with a firming agent to provide both immediate and long-term benefits. Third party testing has also confirmed the reduction of fine lines.”
Fytokem also developed Tyrostat, a tyrosinase inhibitor derived from yellow dock (see April Happi, p. 91) to lighten and whiten skin in cosmetic formulations and improve other skin discoloration. Dragoco,Totowa, NJ markets the product as Dragostat-9 and Drag-ostat-11. According to Fytokem’s pilot studies, positive results were seen in the treatment of age spots.
Another skin care product, Gattefossé’s Bearberry Optiveg-etol, is derived from the bearberry (arctostaphylos uva ursi) plant. Though bearberry’s main component, arbutin, is synonymous with skin lightening, this product does not lighten, but rather normalizes and purifies skin tone.
“Marketers are not looking for the source or region a product is grown, but rather new applications of a product that is familiar,” said Ben Blinder, director of personal care business, Gattefossé based in Westwood, NJ. “Bear-berry Optivegetol has no skin lightening properties even though it contains arbutin. This product has been offered as a novel new ingredient for this kind of application, therefore making it much more exciting.”
Gattefossé also offers Gatuline Age Defense, a walnut extract that is commonly known and accepted, as a product that prevents environmental damage to skin, both extrinsic and intrinsic.
Stability issues often pose the greatest challenge when formulating with natural ingredients. To overcome this problem, Northvale, NJ-based Tri-K Industries developed Stableact, a liquid/liquid encapsulation technology, in its new paradigm technologies division. The company has commercialized a range of systems stabilizing difficult-to-use actives such as vitamins C and A and green tea extract.
Vitamin C supplier Inter-Cal Nutraceuticals, based in Prescott, AZ, has produced Ester-C, a vitamin C product, for more than 20 years. Ester-C is a unique complex consisting of a neutralized form of vitamin C and vitamin C metabolites, which boost skin absorption. In a water-based formula, vitamin C’s shelf life is short and its potency is weakened, according to Inter-Cal executives. Ester-C is stabilized through the process of mixing vitamin C with a polyglycol mixture to keep water away for instant stability. The final concentration of vitamin C in a cosmetic formula is about .5%, which is enough to restore the integrity of the skin, improving fine lines and wrinkles, according to Dr. Philip Brown, Ester-C product manager.
“Vitamin C is related to the physiology of the body,” Dr. Brown explained. “In many structures of the body, it works on collagen, which is the glue that holds skin together. Humans cannot make vitamin C in the body, so it must be added to the diet. Vitamin C is drained out of the skin with smoke and other environmental factors, but it can be replenished.”
In the market, vitamin C is typically derived from ascorbyl palmitate. The compounds have not shown biological activity, according to Dr. Brown. Ester-C, however, is derived from the sago palm tree. Other natural sources in the market are usually derived from corn, he said.
Striking Oil
As more companies look for alternatives to petroleum and animal fats, vegetable oils have gained attention. There are several new grades available in the market to facilitate skin absorption without a heavy, greasy feel. And many of these vegetable oils have been found to have additional benefits that other oils do not contain.
Piscataway, NJ-based Presperse, Inc. has an agreement with B&T located in Milan, Italy to sell olive-derived products such as Eurol BT, which is extracted from the olive leaf. Olive oil has been a part of cosmetic history for a long time, but BT has proprietary technology to extract the component that makes oil go rancid, giving the product a tremendous amount of stability over a long period of time, according to company executives. In addition to a longer shelf life, Eurol BT has special attributes to improve the skin’s composition.
“Eurol BT has an extremely high concentration, nearly 96% active compounds and 4% water, at use levels of .5-1%,” said Tony Ansaldi, marketing manager, Presperse. “The active ingredient is oleoeuropeine, which has several properties such as photoprotection, free-radical scavenging, antimicrobial and anti-irritant characteristics for skin care and sun care.”
The company has also introduced Lema Oil, an antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory ingredient for use in hand sanitizers, antiseptics, acne treatments and antibacterial personal care products.
Some vegetable oils contain specific fatty acids that have recently received considerable attention, such as the importance of omega-6 fatty acids. The newest natural ingredients available from Charkit Chemical Corp., Darien, CT, are oat products, refined hemp seed oil, hemp gels and hemp advanced delivery systems. Charkit executives said hemp oil fatty acids are similar to human skin, allowing easy absorption.
“Hemp oil is the closest oil to human skin as far as fatty acid structure,” said Dan O’Neil, sales representative, Charkit Chemical Corp. “It is easily absorbed by the skin. The omega-6 acid of human skin is 4:1; hemp seed oil is 3.5:1.”
Welch, Holme & Clark in Newark, NJ, primarily sells refined natural vegetable oils such as sweet almond, sesame, sunflower, olive and other oils for lotions and other personal care products, in addition to crude vegetable oils. “Our products are carriers for other types of oil, such as essential and therapeutic oils,” said Bob Dolce, sales representative, Welch, Holme & Clark. “We have FDA-approved vegetable oils, identification and testing in-house.”
Arista Industries, located in Wilton, CT, offers a complete line of vegetable oils such as apricot, almond, sesame, macadamia nut, canola, pea, soybean, cotton, sunflower, coconut and olive oil for use in the pharmaceutical market as nutritional supplements and as oil bases in cosmetic products. But as one Arista executive noted, oils are not only carriers for products, but also stabilizers.
“Oils are popular due to their fatty acid composition,” explained Ms. Siciliano of Arista Industries. “However in the case of oleic acid, it makes a product more stable. It is not for the benefit of the skin, but more of an integral part of the product.”
Oils are perhaps most well-known in the natural product industry in the form of essential oils and blends. Due to a boom in the aromatherapy industry about seven years ago, soaps and other products containing these blends have sold tremendously well, according to executives at Lebermuth, a manufacturer of custom-made fragrances. The company has all-natural fragrance blends that contain natural aromatic resins, chemicals and absolutes. Though the company has synthetic fragrance capabilities, executives insist 40% of the company’s fragrance business is all-natural. And most of these fragrances are created by request. “In the past, companies were looking for just simple blends of essential oils such as peppermint and lemon oil,” said Lebermuth’s Mr. Brown. “Now they are demanding more tropical and outdoor fragrances like a fine perfume.”
Lebermuth’s Native American blend uses essential oils that replicate a deciduous environment with oils such as cedar and sage. This fragrance is primarily used in new-age type products, Mr. Brown said.
Tri-K’s Olivoil Glutinate, a natural, anionic surfactant based on wheat proteins and olive oil, is an extremely mild detergent with excellent foaming and cleansing properties and improved odor and color. It is gaining use in facial cleansing products. Another new line available from Tri-K are natural emulsifiers based on wheat and palm oil. The products, Emuliance and Xyliance, are produced by Ard-Soliance, a French biotechnology company dedicated to converting agricultural products and byproducts into cosmetic raw materials.
“These ingredients are surprisingly efficient emulsifiers,” noted Rosario Oteri, director of marketing, Tri-K Industries. “In some formulations, they can stabilize a 60% oil phase at just a 3% concentration. In addition, they impart a light, non-greasy moisturized feel to skin.”
Midwest Grain Pro-ducts, Atchison, KS, offers Aqua Pro II RH (rice hulls), Aqua Pro II RB (rice bran) and Skin Flow C (wheat starch with calcium) which impart improv-ed skin feel to a finished product. Aqua Pro II OB is an oat bran product that of-fers the natural soothing qualities of oats, and enhances a product’s look with its earthy texture.
Extract Innovators
“Wet or dry?” is usually a question asked at a hair salon. But in the plant extract industry, those are precisely the newest variations available to cosmetic chemists. Cosmetochem USA, Clifton, NJ, offers Herbiset dry powdered extracts, which are produced through a cold-extraction process. “The cold extraction process preserves the active portion of the herb and also the original odor,” explained Steve Scher, president, Cosmetochem USA, a division of Cosmetochem AG, Steinhausen, Switzerland. “It is a lengthy process but the best way to produce a more effective powder.”
If wet is what you are looking for, Gattefossé has launched the Original Extracts, a seven-SKU line of plant extracts that are created with a process unlike other methods. Normally, a plant is composed of mostly water, trace elements and salts, Gattfossé’s Mr. Blinder said. Most extracts use only the dry material by extracting the actives and throwing the water away. Gattefossé, however, takes the plant, throws away the dry material and keeps the water, which is packed with trace minerals, salts and other active constituents, according to executives.
“Gattefossé is promoting the clean, natural water of a plant, which has a high degree of affinity to the skin,” Mr. Blinder said. “Formulations usually use tap, processed or deionized water, or what we call ‘dead water.’ Ours is completely unprocessed ‘living water’ from familiar sources such as kiwi, apple and orange.”
Gattefossé additionally offers the Fruit Secrets line using a traditional and gentle concentration process to preserve polyphenols, antioxidants and vitamins from fruits such as lemon, apple and papaya.
Exfoliating Exercisers
Riding high on the naturals wave have been alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs), which exfoliate skin to improve clarity and tone. Cleopatra originally discovered the exfoliating and moisturizing effects of milk in a bath, a practice which has prevailed for centuries. Traditional sources of exfoliating acids have been milk and fruit acids, but with the recent avoidance of bovine products, fruits are now widely accepted. Jungbunzlauer, a Newton Centre, MA-based personal care fermentation company, converts corn syrup to xanthan, citric acid and glucona lactone. The latter two ingredients are alpha hydroxy acids that exfoliate the skin. Glucona lactone is in a neutral dry form that becomes active in water.
“Citric acid was classically extracted from lemons in the early 1900s,” said Tom West, technical service manager, Jungbunzlauer. “Today, citric acid is made by fermentation using a mold to convert a natural source.”
Under the Sea
Like modern transport, natural ingredients span land, air and sea. Yet the sea is perhaps the least explored venue for personal care potential, and certain characteristics of marine life have raised a few eyebrows and sparked new research in the past decade.
Secma Biotechnologies Marines, Pontrieux, France, whose products are distributed by Presperse in the U.S., has extensively observed and studied seaweed. As a result, Secma’s Seve Marine seaweed extract was discovered to have unique properties because of its tidal environment.
“Secma looks at plants that are subjected to environmental stresses and tries to answer the question, ‘What makes it sustain itself within these environmental factors?’” ex-plained Presperse’s Mr. Ansaldi. “The plant grows close to the shore line and is bathed by the sea at high tide and bathed by the sun at low tide. The answer to Secma’s question in this case was moisturization.”
Tri-K, in conjuction with its partner Lanatech, has developed a new active called Abyssine 657. It, too, has an interesting story. The product is a polysaccharide synthesized by the marine micro-organism alteromonas macleodii found in the depths of the ocean. It has been shown in vitro to reduce ICAM-1 and protect Langerhans cells. In a clinical setting, it significantly reduced irritation and repaired damaged skin.
“This microorganism was discovered near the Galapagos hydrothermal vents in the Pacific Ocean,” Mr. Oteri explained. “It was found at a depth of 3000 meters by the French submersible ship, The Nautille. It was brought to the surface and cultivated for this skin care active.” At such depths, the algae was able to regulate itself under the harshest conditions, making it particularly interesting in relation to overly sensitive skin, to which everything is harsh.
Seporga, located in Cedex, France now offers Mythuline, an extract purified from shell threads that stimulates collagen and keratin synthesis and improves skin hydration and suppleness. Seporga’s products are distributed in the U.S. by MMP, South Plainfield, NJ.
Didn’t Mom Say That?
Since much can be learned by observing nature, there is no doubt women involved with agriculture have been aware of nature’s properties for centuries, and who better to learn from than Mom? Much of the information in the naturals industry is based on old wives’ tales that have been put to the test and have been found to really work.
“Grandma used to say to take a bath in tea when you have a sunburn,” remarked Mr. Matson of Carrubba. “But what grandma didn’t know is that epigallocatechin gallate (EPCG) provides an anti-inflammatory action to mitigate the effects of a sunburn.”
Carrubba’s milk thistle, on the other hand, came from the world of research. According to Mr. Matson, more recent discoveries in the naturals market have been from science, rather than folklore. Still many researchers have turned to other cultures for new plants and plant uses unfamiliar to North America. The Chinese, for example, have used herbs as part of their health care system for thousands of years, and today, half of Western medicine is derived from herbs, according to Draco’s Mr. Duber Smith.
Lema Oil, a tea tree oil product produced by Southern Cross Botanicals, Lennox Head, Australia, and distributed through Presperse, Inc., has been used by Aborigines for centuries. Through anecdotes, Southern Cross discovered various reasons why people use tea tree oil, such as anti-inflammatory, antibacterial and soothing effects. Tea tree oil has now been added to products ranging from anti-dandruff hair care to oral care, in addition to facial scrubs and soothing lotions for poison ivy and bee stings. It is a very versatile ingredient, according to Presperse’s Mr. Ansaldi.
Fytokem’s Canadian Willowherb extract was based on folklore and found to be as effective as hydrocortisone in chemical and UV-induced erythema as well as a free radical scavenger. Whether based on folklore or not, Fytokem puts hundreds of potential herbs through clinical tests and standardization. Fytokem’s Bioactive program isolates the characteristics of the active molecules, such as anti-irritation properties of its flagship Willowherb. “Results found our Willowherb extract has Phase II enzyme induction, which prevents oxidative stress, and is applicable to products such as skin care, sun care and environmental care,” said the company’s Mr. Dutka.
Gattefossé’s Mr. Blinder insists that consumers are still looking for natural products Mom would approve of, but with an added dimension. “Active ingredients and extracts in the beginning were just based on folklore, such as aloe,” noted Mr. Blinder. “Then the trend shifted toward ingredients derived from strange and obscure places, such as a Peruvian desert, but they were hard to ship and were not well known. Now the trend is to look at an ingredient from a familiar source and add a spin, such as new functionalities or applications to give newer benefits to the consumer.”
And this seems like the best bet in the U.S. since chemists are hesitant to use herbs if they don’t have a solid clinical background. American scientists differ from their continental neighbors in the acceptance of new herbs without much scientific data. Yet consumers in both regions readily embrace anything deemed natural.
“In Europe and Asia, consumers and scientists don’t have a lot of trouble accepting extracts,” said Mr. Ansaldi of Presperse. “This could be because of regulatory laws, but in the U.S., scientists are more skeptical and look for solid proof. Consumers, however, seem to accept extracts.”
Mr. Blinder agreed. “From a consumer standpoint, the requirements have always been there to get chemicals out of products,” he said. “But from our chemistry standpoint, we need strong substantiation. Aloe was used for years in skin care products, but there was no scientific data to back it up. If you offer a natural ingredient with a folkloric background and proven science that it actually works, the industry is more willing to experiment with it.”
Other executives insist that tradition prevails no matter what the product claims. Ms. Siciliano of Arista noted that avocado oil has traditionally been used as a hair emollient in Brazil and remains a well known hair ingredient.
“Consumers tend to use products they have learned about at a young age rather than those seen in advertisements,” said Ms. Siciliano. “People are more loyal to a product when they have grown up with it.”
The existence of certain products for thousands of years also lends trust in a natural product. According to Mr. Brown of the Lebermuth Co., the Bible cites uses for essential oils in ceremonies to anoint kings, honor the dead and celebrate births. Every major religion, in fact, has made explicit references to plants and aromas for prestigious ceremonies, he insists. And still with the advent of French perfumists centuries later, the only available materials were flower essences such as rose, jasmine and geranium. “They worked with raw materials and nothing besides plant products,” said Mr. Brown. “We are going back to that—new products with ancient knowledge.”
Food First, Then Cosmetics
Some industry experts insist that despite tradition and random testing of herbs, natural personal care products are inspired by the nutraceuticals industry. Milk thistle extract, for example, was originally thought of as nothing more than a weed in the U.S. It was then discovered to be a liver function enhancer and was added to nutritional supplements. This led Carrubba scientists to research the effects of milk thistle on other parts of the body, such as skin, to target the same consumer. “When it comes to trends in the cosmetic and personal care market, many follow trends in the supplement or natural food markets because the trend was started by the same consumer,” explained Carrubba’s Mr. Matson.
Presperse’s Mr. Ansaldi insists that the close relationship between the two markets is the consumer’s desire to avoid pills and drugs. “It takes three to five years before herbal extracts find their way from the food industry to the cosmetic industry, such as ginkgo biloba,” he said. “More and more, research is being pushed by consumers who are tired of drugs and want a product with considerably fewer side effects.”
Baby Boomers are driving the trend toward more natural products because the boomers value their health considerably more than younger consumers.
“Following the movement toward natural care is self care,” explained Mr. Duber Smith. “Baby Boomers have been driving this trend for 30 years. As they get older, there will be more natural health care for this active population. Personal care products are a natural off-shoot and is an extremely high growth area right now.”
Natural Concerns
Though the natural products market may seem like Atlantis found, many scientists and consumers have a bounty of concerns such as availability, price, performance and safety. The use of plants for cosmetic applications trails food applications, yet industry suppliers must be careful in what they choose to sell and how much is available.
“Rain forest botanicals sometimes have precarious supplies and may not be sustainable or commercialized, but rather wild-crafted,” opined Mr. Matson. “They may have interesting properties, but they may not be available 12 months a year from multiple sources. We tend to stay away from those because if we convince a buyer to use it, we can’t tell them to wait five months for the next harvest.”
The plant itself may also have certain attributes that are not desirable to suppliers. The part of the plant used is important, such as the leaf versus the root, because the latter would require frequent re-planting. There is also a great resistance to genetically-modified (GMO) plant products, especially in Europe.
“Clients don’t want GMO products,” explained Joël Mantelin, general director of Cedex, France-based Seporga. “Cosmetics is a marketing-oriented business. That’s why when alternatives exist, consumers don’t want GMO products in personal care products.”
Lebermuth’s Mr. Brown explained that generally, essential oils do not come from GMO products, but the best hybrids of the plants are chosen and crossbred with other superior plants during pollination. The word GMO in Europe has become synonymous with questionable long-term safety, which is on everyone’s mind around the globe with or without the inclusion of GMO products. “Consumers are concerned about the safety and usage levels of a product and what happens with sunlight or inhalation,” said Mr. Brown. “Price is also a major issue, such as whether or not it would be profitable to use a certain blend.”
Price is a primary concern because natural ingredients tend to be more costly. And even if the actual amounts of herbs or extracts in a product are not effective, the product’s label can claim the inclusion of the ingredient and its purported benefits. “The mass market generally does not use enough natural ingredients to make the herbs functional or efficacious; only the herb’s buzzwords are used to make the product mainstream,” said Draco’s Mr. Duber Smith. “It is all about price points—herbs are expensive and are not mass-produced like drugs.”
And if a formulation is effective, the end product has a higher price tag. “Most extracts are used as just label copy but they don’t do anything—it is a matter of concentration,” said Cosmetochem USA’s Mr. Scher. “But if the product really does something, there is a limited range of products, it is expensive and requires high extract doses.”
The added proliferation of products in the market that claim the same properties such as antioxidant or free radical scavenging adds to the difficulty of telling the story of a product, said Presperse’s Mr. Ansaldi.
Natural variation of plants also occurs, which needs to be controlled in processing. Other important concerns are the effects of an herb, such as whether or not it changes the color of the end product or its stability. Processing should also exclude alcohol, hexine, solvents and heavy metals, said Fytokem’s Mr. Dutka. “We need to give assurance that our methods fall within certain confines and be diligent depending on what the clients want tested,” he added. “Quality control is another factor to create the same high quality and consistent product time and time again.”
Despite the many challenges that are present in the natural ingredient market, sales have not slowed down. This is both related to high consumer demand in the U.S. and overseas.
“The saturation of the naturals market is pretty far off,” Mr. Dolce of Welch, Holme & Clark said. “We have increased business all the time and customers are purchasing materials more frequently. This market is just beginning, and so are the European and Asian markets. Business with Asia has quadrupled for our company.”
Tempting Fate
Since the boom of natural ingredients is not slowing, what exactly drives the consumer these days? Some industry insist growth is related to the trend toward pesticide-free organic foods. Some said it is the strength of marketing. Others said it is an issue of consumers taking matters into their own hands.
“People want to take care of themselves in whatever manner they feel is best, and people have the perception that naturals are better for them,” said Jungbunzlauer’s Mr. West. “Cosmetic and personal care items are dovetailing into this.”
As more people look toward the future for a better quality of life, more natural–based items will infiltrate the market, both physically and spiritually.
And as Mr. Brown of Lebermuth summed it up, whatever product is out there, there is a someone who will purchase it. “There is a consumer for every product in America,” he said. “Just look at the boom of whole foods markets. People really do care about what they use, from their tummies to their toes.”
Closing Comments
Even though consumers are more aware of what they put on their bodies, price is still a problem for many who prefer a natural lifestyle, but cannot afford it. But executives insist that as the popularity of organic produce and products increases, prices will decrease. However, that is dependent on many factors such as the collaboration between buyers and suppliers to develop both efficacious and cost-effective products, addressing more problems such as eczema or dandruff control and catering to specific markets such as teens, babies and pets. But the most important aspect of the market is increasing the technology to provide the industry with sufficient options.
“Naturally-positioned cosmetics and toiletries are certainly a sustainable trend and will continue to gain momentum in the future,” said Tri-K’s Mr. Oteri. “In large part, what will fuel the growth of this category are technical advances, by both suppliers and marketers, which will increase the efficacy and performance of natural ingredients.”
Active Organics, Inc.
Lewisville, TX
Tel: (972) 221-7500
Fax: (972) 221-3324
Website: www.activeorganics.com
E-mail: info@activeorganics.com
Actigel
INCI name: water (and) algae extract (and) sodium hylauronate
Suggested use level: 3-5%
Applications: lotions, cleansers, moisturizers
Actigen Y
INCI name: hexyldecanol (and) dioscorea villosa (wild yam) root extract
Suggested use level: 3-6% in skin and hair care products
Applications: lotions, washes, cleansers, moisturizers, eyeshadows and products for sensitive or inflamed skin
Actimoist Plus
INCI name: sodium hylauronate (and) hydrolyzed glycosaminoglycans (and) pectin
Suggested use level: 3-5%
Applications: moisturizing lotions, creams and gels
Amerchol Corporation
Edison, NJ
Tel: (732) 248-6018
Fax: (732) 287-4186]
Glucamate LT
INCI name: PEG-120 methyl glucose trioleate
Suggested use level: 1-5%
Applications: shampoos, body washes, liquid soaps and cleansers
Comments: Glucamate LT is an effective viscosity enhancing agent for mild, difficult to thicken surfactant systems.
Akzo Nobel Surfactants America
Chicago, IL
Tel: (800) 906-9977
Fax: (312) 906-7680
Website: www.akzonobel.com
Armocare VGH-70
INCI name: di palmitoylethyldimonium chloride
Applications: rinse-off and leave-on conditioners
Comments: Armocare VGH-70 is an ideal conditioning ingredient for both leave-on and rinse-off products. Armocare VGH-70 is one of the family of ester quaternaries that provides superior dry combability, a silky and soft feel, detangling of wet hair, reduces static charge and flyaway, leaves no buildup and is biodegradable.
Beacon CMP Corporation
Kenilworth, NJ
Tel: (908) 851-9393
Fax: (908) 851-9894
E-mail: beaconcm@aol.com
Tech-O #6-060LC
INCI name: hydrolyzed oat protein
Suggested use level: 1-5%
Applications: skin care, shampoos, after sun lotions and creams
Comments: A liquid form of hydrolyzed oat protein on a substrate of water. The oat protein and the oat beta glucan provide the well known, ameliorating and substantive qualities of oats to the skin.
Tech-O #6-055LC
INCI name: hydrolyzed oat protein
Suggested use level: 1-5%
Applications: skin care, shampoos, after sun lotions and creams
Comments: A liquid form of hydrolyzed oat protein on a substrate of glycerin and water. The oat protein and the oat beta glucan provide well known, ameliorating and substantive qualities to the skin.
Tech-O #6-050LC
INCI name: hydrolyzed oat protein
Suggested use level: 1-5%
Applications: skin care, shampoos, after sun lotions and creams
Comments: A liquid form of hydrolyzed oat protein on a substrate of propylene glycol and water. The oat protein and oat beta glucan provide well known, ameliorating and substantive qualities to the skin.
Bio-Botanica Inc.
Hauppauge, NY
Tel: (631) 231-5522
Fax: (631) 231-7332
Website: www.bio-botanica.com
E-mail: youssef@bio-botanica.com
Albacan
INCI name: propylene glycol (and) glycerin (and) broussonetia kazinski root (and) actostaphylos uva ursi leaf extracts
Suggested use level: 1-2%
Applications: skin lightening products
Comments: Natural, non-irritating skin bleaching agent.
Phytoplenolin
INCI name: butylene glycol (and) centipeda cunninghamii extract
Suggested use level: 0.2-1%
Applications: anti-inflammatory and anti-aging skin care products
Comments: Anti-inflammatory, cell renew-ing agent with distinct sunscreen activity.
BioChemicals International, Inc.
Satellite Beach, FL
Tel: (321) 773-7457
Fax: (321) 777-4235
Website: www.biochemica.com
E-mail: info@biochemica.com
Avocado Butter
INCI name: persea gratissima (avocado) oil
Suggested use level: lotions/creams: 3-5%; balms: 5-100%; bar soaps: 3-6%; conditioners: 2-5%
Applications: creams, lotions, balms, bar soaps, conditioners
Comments: Derived from the fruit of the avocado (persea gratissima) plant, Avocado Butter is a stable and pliant butter with melting properties perfectly suited for personal care applications.
Shea Butter Ultra Natural (Yellow)
INCI name: butyrospermum parkii (shea) seed butter
Suggested use level: lotions/creams: 3-5%; balms: 5-100%; bar soaps: 3-6%; conditioners: 2-5%
Applications: creams, lotions, balms, conditioners, bar soaps
Comments: This grade of shea butter re-tains the natural yellow color and characteristic “earthy” odor of shea, often desired by the natural personal care industry.
Aloe Butter
INCI name: cocos nucifera (coconut) oil (and) aloe barbadensis leaf extract
Suggested use level: lotions/creams: 3-5%; balms: 5-100%; bar soaps: 3-6%; conditioners: 2-5%
Applications: creams, lotions, body and lip balms, bar soaps
Comments: Much of aloe vera’s activity is located just under the green rind of the plant’s leaf, and this is the part used in the extraction process of Aloe Butter. The aloe constants are extracted into a coconut fat fraction, which exhibits the ideal melting properties for personal care applications.
Bioland Ltd.
Chonan, Korea
Tel: (82) 41 564 8615 (303)
Fax: (82) 41 564 8619
Website: www.biolandltd.com
E-mail: bioland@biolandltd.com
Areca Catechu Seed Extract
INCI name: areca catechu seed extract
Suggested use level: 3%
Applications: anti-aging products
Carruba Inc.
Milford, CT
Tel: (203) 878-0605
Fax: (203) 877-0361
Website: www.carrubba.com
E-mail: customerservice@carrubba.com
Standardized Milk Thistle Extract
INCI name: silybum marianum extract
Suggested use level: 0.5-1%
Applications: sun care, skin care
Comments: Powerful antioxidant, free radical scavenger; protects against sunburn and photo-aging.
Standardized Ginkgo Biloba Extract
INCI name: ginkgo biloba extract
Suggested use level: 0.5-1%
Applications: sun care, skin care
Comments: Improves microcirculation; potent antioxidant, anti-inflammatory; protects against photo-aging; enhances collagen synthesis.
Standardized Soy Isoflavone Extract
INCI name: glycine soja (soybean) extract
Suggested use level: 0.5-1%
Applications: sun care, skin care
Comments: Powerful antioxidant; scav-enges free radicals; helps prevent photo-aging; soothing.
Centerchem, Inc.
Norwalk, CT
Tel: (203) 822-9800
Fax: (203) 822-9820
Website: www.centerchem.com
E-mail: cosmetics@centerchem.com
Edelweiss GC
INCI name: leontopodium alpinum extract
Suggested use level: 3-5%
Applications: skin care, stressed, sensitive and anti-aging skin products
Comments: Edelweiss is a perennial belonging to the Asteracea family and is found in the meadows and limestone rocks at altitudes between 1500 and 3400m. In its natural habitat, this plant is subjected to strong UV irradiation, low atmospheric pressure and extreme temperature and humidity changes. During evolution, edelweiss developed protective metabolites that nature has optimized over thousands of years. These compounds have useful skin-protecting properties. Edelweiss GC displays high performance antioxidant and radical scavenging properties. The effects of phenolic acids, such as chlorogenic acid, are optimized by the presence of tannins. Tannins are known for inhibition of lipid peroxidation and superoxide ion formation, lead to an increased type 3 collagen protection and are free radical scavengers. Additionally with the presence of sitosterol, luteolin-4’-O-glucoside and bisabolane derivatives, Edelweiss GC delivers a soothing effect to the skin. All these properties make Edelweiss GC extract an ideal ingredient for the treatment of stressed and sensitive skin and anti-aging preparations.
Gigawhite
INCI name: water (and) glycerin (and) malva sylvestris (and) mentha piperita (and) primula veris (and) alchemilla vulgaris (and) Veronica officinalis (and) Mel-issa officinalis (and) achillea millefolium
Suggested use level: 3-5%
Applications: skin care, skin lightening/whitening products
Comments: Gigawhite is a plant-derived skin lightener proven to have a significant skin whitening effect and the ability to reduce the color and size of age spots. Clinical studies show a total skin lightening of 24% over a three-month test period. Additionally evaluations show a decrease in both color intensity and size of age spots over a 12-week period. Gigawhite is preservative-free, easy to incorporate into formulations and is stable in the pH range of 5-8. Gigawhite is the ideal ingredient for skin whitening preparations.
Stimu-Tex AS
INCI name: spent grain wax (and) butyrosperum parkii (shea butter) extract (and) argania spinosa kernel oil
Suggested use level: 3-5%
Applications: sensitive skin care, moisturizing skin products
Comments: Stimu-Tex AS is the next generation of Stimu-Tex. The added combination of two natural oils (shea butter and argania oil) improves the cosmetic efficiency of Stimu-Tex AS. It has excellent anti-itching and replenishing effects on the skin and is the ideal active ingredient for the treatment of very dry, irritated skin.
Charkit Chemical Corp.
Darien, CT
Tel: (203) 655-3400
Fax: (203) 655-8643
Website: www.charkit.com
E-mail: sales@charkit.com
Nurture Beta-Glucan 70-PC
INCI name: betaglucan
Suggested use level: 1-3%
Applications: lotions, creams, gels for skin, hair, bath formulations providing immunostimulation benefits
Comments: Seventy percent oat beta-glucan in the form of a water-soluble, affordable powder.
Nurture Oat Oil Powder-PC
INCI name: oat extract
Suggested use level: 2-5%
Applications: skin care, hair care, bath treatments
Comments: Outstanding emolliency coupled with potent antioxidancy and emulsion stabilization.
Nurture Oat Protein-PC
INCI name: oat protein
Suggested use level: 3-10%
Applications: skin care, hair care, bath treatments
Comments: Imparts silky skin feel while reducing surface oiliness of emulsion formulations. Also useful as a natural co-emulsifier.
Concord Chemical Co. Inc.
Camden, NJ
Tel: (800) 282-2436 / (856) 966-1526
Fax: (856) 963-0246
Website: www.concordchemical.com
E-mail: info@concordchemical.com
Soap Concentrate 41
INCI name: betaglucan
Suggested use level: 4 parts water and 1 part soap
Applications: concentrated liquid soap, hand soaps (opacified and pearlized white)
Comments: Formulations available.
Cosmetochem International Ltd.
Steinhausen, Switzerland
Tel: (41) 41 7483333
Fax: (41) 41 7483344
Website: www.cosmetochem.ch
E-mail: info@cosmetochem.ch
Herbasol MPE Deo
INCI name: PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil (and) hyssop (hyssop officinalis) extract (and) clove (engenia caryphyllus) extract (and) water
Suggested use level: 3-6%
Applications: deodorants
Comments: Plant-derived deodorants active.
Herbasol MPE Rooifos
INCI name: PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil (and) aspalathus linearis extract (and) water
Suggested use level: 3-10%
Applications: hair loss prevention
Comments: Botanical active stimulating hair roots; free-radical scavenger.
Herbasol MPE Sebostat
INCI name: PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil (and) watercress (nasturtium officinale) extract (and) horsetail (equisetum arvense) extract (and) nettle (urtica dioica) extract (and) water
Suggested use level: 0.3-0.5% leave-on skin care; 3-5% rinse-off hair care
Applications: greasy or mixed skin and hair care products
Comments: Skin and scalp equilibrating. Botanical active against sebboroic skin. Synergistic combination of plants.
Croda, Inc.
Parsippany, NJ
Tel: (973) 644-4900
Fax: (973) 644-9222
Website: www.croda.com
E-mail: marketing@croda.com
Crodarom Ginger Special
INCI name: butylene glycol (and) zingerber officinale (ginger) root extract
Suggested use level: 0.5-2%
Applications: heat treatment/massage creams, cellulite therapy, deep-heating rubs, muscle relaxers, skin toners, astringents, hair tonics, bath products
Comments: High activity, highly concentrated extract containing plant actives with vasodilatory activity; proven in vivo for circulatory action creating a warming sensation on skin, indicating temporary increase in blood flow; cooling effect on evaporation.
Cromollient SCE
INCI name: Di-PPG-2 myreth-10 adipate
Suggested use level: 1-25%
Applications: body washes, after shave products, low VOC products, lipsticks
Comments: Hydroactive, surfactant-friendly di-ester emollient; excellent pre-solubilizer for benzophenone-3/hair dyes; good wax solvency for lipsticks.
Draco Natural Products
San Jose, CA
Tel: (408) 287-7871
Fax: (408) 287-8838
Website: www.DracoHerbs.com
E-mail: info@DracoHerbs.com
Adenophora Stricta (Sand Root) Extract
INCI name: adenophora stricta (sand root) extract
Suggested use level: 50mg per g topical
Applications: dry skin moisturizer
Comments: Moistens exterior of itchy, dry skin often caused by cold and wind.
Sophora Flavescens Extract
INCI name: sophora flavenscens extract
Suggested use level: 50mg per g topical
Applications: anti-itching products
Comments: An ingredient for lotions and ointments to soothe itchy skin.
Grapeseed Extract
INCI name: grapeseed extract
Suggested use level: 50mg per g topical
Applications: antioxidant usage
Comments: Protects collagen and elastin from age-related breakdown. One of the most highly studied antioxidants.
Florida Chemical Co., Inc.
Winter Haven, FL
Tel: (863) 294-8483
Fax: (863) 294-7783
Website: www.floridachemical.com
E-mail: info@floridachemical.com
FreshNotes Aqueous Fruit and
Vegetable Distillates
Suggested use level: 200-1000 parts per million depending on the application
Applications: shampoos, soaps, shower and bath products, cosmetics, aromatherapy products, candles
Comments: Available in various notes such as banana, cantaloupe and coffee.
Frank B. Ross Co., Inc.
Jersey City, NJ
Tel: (201) 433-4512
Fax: (201) 332-3555
E-mail: fbross@gateway.net
Vegetable Lip Gloss Base
INCI name: castor oil (and) jojoba wax (and) propylene glycol (and) aloe oil (and) soya protein (and) royal jelly (and) pantothenic acid (and) folic acid (and) tocopherol (and) methylparaben (and) propylparaben
Suggested use level: 1-100%
Applications: lipstick, lip gloss, pomades, soap preparations, makeup
Comments: An outstanding super shiny high lip gloss base. A superior alternative to petroleum based products with a slick-like structure. Softens and smooths the skin. Vegetable Lip Gloss Base is known for its exceptional shelf life as it resists oxidation, while having remarkable film forming and pigment wetting properties. It has exceptional thermostability.
Vegetable Lipstick Base
INCI name: PEG-25 hydrogenated castor oil (and) oleth 10 (and) propylene glycol (and) sorbitol (and) soya protein (and) royal jelly (and) pantothenic acid (and) folic acid (and) methylparaben (and) propylparaben
Suggested use level: 1-100%
Applications: lipsticks, lip gloss, pom-ades, soap preparations, makeup
Comments: Superior alternative to petroleum based products with a gel-like structure. High thermostability and can soften and smooth the skin. Vegetable Lipstick Base is known for its exceptional shelf life as it resists oxidation, while having remarkable film forming and pigment wetting properties. It has exceptional thermostability.
Gattefossé Corporation
Westwood, NJ
Tel: (201) 358-1700
Fax: (201) 664-5612
Website: www.gattefosse.com
Phyderm Vegetal C
INCI name: hydrolized soy protein
Suggested use level: 5-10%
Applications: nourishing skin care products, hair treatment and conditioning products, gel products, emulsions and micro-emulsions
Comments: Provides dual effect on skin regeneration (revitalizing and nourishing). Boosts cell metabolism and one-to-one substitutes for placenta extract (similar composition, same organoleptic characteristic and identical formulation properties).
Optivegetol Bearberry
INCI name: arctostaphylos uva ursi (bearberry) extract
Suggested use level: 2.5-5%
Applications: skin care for greasy/acne prone skin, clear lotions, purifying gels, products for atopic (extremely dry) skin, shaving products, toiletries
Comments: Purifying active for problem skin, normalizes the skin ecosystem. Con-tains arbutin, a known antiseptic and bacteriostatic ingredient.
Horse Chestnut Extract
INCI name: water (and) propylene glycol (and) horse chestnut (aesculus hippocastanum) extract
Suggested use level: 1-20%
Applications: eye contour gel, makeup remover, anti-redness skin care
Comments: For use on dark rings and pockets under the eyes. The presence of flavanoids in horse chestnut supplements the action of esculosides by anti-inflammatory and vaso-constructive action.
Greentech SA
Saint-Beauzire, France
Tel: (33) 4 73 33 99 00
Fax: (33) 4 73 33 91 32
E-mail: greentech@wanadoo.fr
Seborilys
INCI name: water (and) glycerin (and) ethanol (and) lecithin (and) epilobium angustifolium (and) terminalia chebula (and) microalgae extracts (and) guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride (and) vitamin E acetate (and) benzophenone-3 (and) phenoxyethanol
Suggested use level: 1-5%
Applications: cream or tonic for acne
Comments: Seborilys has anti-acneic properties which are associated with anti-androgenic activity of macrocyclic tannis contained in epilobium. This effect is reinforced by the astringent activity of terminalia and the cleaning effect of zinc obtained from microalgae culture.
Henry Lamotte GmbH
Bremen, Germany
Tel: (49) 421 52390
Fax: (49) 421 5239190
Website: www.lamotte.de
E-mail: info@lamotte.de
Squalane Olive Oil Base
INCI name: squalane
Applications: skin care, bathing additives, skin oils, créme rouge, lip care
Comments: One hundred percent oil-soluble, extremely stable and non-drying. It positively influences the spreading capacity. Especially valued in the production of skin care products.
Inter-Cal Nutraceuticals
Prescott, AZ
Tel: (928) 445-8063
Fax: (928) 778-7986
Website: www.intercal.com
E-mail: info@intercal.com
Ester-C Topical Concentrate
Suggested use level: 0.25-0.5% vitamin C content in finished products
Applications: above-the-neck cosmetic creams and lotions; body wash; moisturizer
Comments: A natural, stable, penetrating form of vitamin C.
Jeen International Corp.
Little Falls, NJ
Tel: (973) 812-9087
Fax: (973) 812-2305
Jeechem 100-WP
INCI name: hydrolyzed wheat protein
Suggested use level: 2-6%
Applications: hair and skin conditioners
Jeeplex C-10 P
INCI name: ascorbic acid (and) propylene glycol
Suggested use level: 10%
Applications: anhydrous creams, lotions
Comments: Acts as a skin antioxidant.
Lipo Chemicals
Paterson, NJ
Tel: (973) 345-8600
Fax: (973) 345-8365
Website: www.lipochemicals.com
Optigel SH-CG
INCI name: sodium magnesium silicate
Suggested use level: 0.5-10%
Applications: lotion/creams, color cosmetics, clear gel formulations, bead suspension
Comments: Easily dispersed at room temperature, stable in 5-12 pH range.
Optigel WX-CG
INCI name: bentonite (and) xanthan gum
Suggested use level: 1-10%
Applications: skin care products, lotions, creams, color cosmetics, AHA formulations
Comments: Stable in 2-12 pH range, absorbs sebum, soothing to skin.
Optigel BEN-1255
INCI name: water (and) bentonite
Suggested use level: 5-20%
Applications: creams, lotions, liquid make-up, masks, AHA formulations
Comments: Predispersed bentonite in water, stable in 2-12 pH range.
Maybrook, Inc.
Lawrence, MA
Tel: (978) 682-1853
Fax: (978) 682-2544
Soy-Tein AA
INCI name: soy amino acids
Suggested use level: 1-5%
Applications: hair care, skin care, shampoos, conditioners, facial washes, blow drying and styling products, nutritive products
Comments: Low molecular weight soy, substantive, binds moisture and pulls it to dry areas. Anti-irritant.
McIntyre Group Ltd.
University Park IL
Tel: (800) 645-6457
Fax: (708) 534-6216
Website: www.mcintyregroup.com
Machol CAS-100F
INCI name: sodium cocosulfate
Suggested use level: 2-10%
Applications: lauryl sulfate replacement, amide replacement, conditioner for shampoos and hand soaps.
Comments: Product is derived from coconut oil and is an excellent choice for thickening natural personal cleansers.
Midwest Grain Products, Inc.
Atchison, KS
Tel: (800) 255-0302
(913) 367-1480
Website: www.midwestgrain.com
Aqua Pro II RH
INCI name: rice hulls
Suggested use level: 1-2%
Applications: skin care products
Comments: Use the exotic natural texture of rice hulls to enhance the look of your skin care products, and gain its added functionality as an exfoliant too. Aqua Pro II RH is all-natural and GMO-free.
Aqua Pro II RB
INCI name: rice bran
Suggested use level: 2-3%
Applications: facial and skin scrubs
Comments: Aqua Pro II RB is an all-natural and GMO-free ingredient that will help attract consumers with a friendly label and will help keep them by enhancing the texture of your skin care products.
Aqua Pro II OB
INCI name: oat bran
Suggested use level: 2-3%
Applications: variety of body scrub applications
Comments: This mild exfoliant is non-GMO, all-natural, gluten-free and possesses the natural soothing qualities of oats, which helps enhance the look of your skin care products with its earthy texture.
Natunola Health, Inc.
Nepean, Ontario, Canada
Tel: (613) 727-7337
Fax: (613) 727-3772
Website: www.natunola.com
E-mail: sales@natunola.com
Aloe Vera Oil Gel C1X/C1XL
INCI name: canola oil (and) aloe barbadensis leaf juice (and) tocopherol
Suggested use level: 1-10%
Applications: emollient, biological additive, film former and a viscosity controlling agent for anhydrous systems such as lipstick, bath gel, anhydrous liquid sunscreen gel, creams and lotions, shampoos and suntan products
Comments: Aloe Vera Gel C1X/C1XL are the first aloe vera gels that can be quantified in a vegetable oil and supported by a nuclear magnetic resonance (NMR) study. Aloe Vera Oil Gel C1X is a clear oil consisting of a gel-like structure. Aloe Vera Oil Gel C1XL is a flowable liquid oil gel and is a lower viscosity version of our Aloe Vera Oil Gel C1X. Both gels have outstanding thermostability and a high concentration of vitamin E.
Natunola CWAX 5611
INCI name: canola oil (and) glycine soja (soybean) oil (and) hydrogenated vegetable oil (and) zea mays (corn) starch (and) silica
Suggested use level: 5-30%
Applications: emollient creams, cold creams, conditioning creams, baby creams, sunscreen lotions, bar soaps, pomades, styling aids, antiperspirant sticks
Comments: Natunola CWAX 5611 is a natural ingredient that provides a soft smooth feeling to the skin. It can be used as a viscosity-increasing agent for non-aqueous systems. Natunola CWAX 5611 can be used in a number of skin care, hair care and sun care applications.
Natunola Sunflower 1102
INCI name: helianthus annuus (sunflower) seed oil (and) glycine soja (soybean) germ extract (and) zea mays (corn) starch (and) silica (and) tocopherol
Suggested use level: 1-75%
Applications: eye pencils, lip pencils, lip glosses, foundations, binder for eyeshadows
Comments: Natural opaque gel base. Very dry feeling emollient. Exceptional thermostability.
Presperse Inc.
Piscataway, NJ
Tel: (732) 819-8009
Fax: (732) 819-7175
Website: www.presperse.com
Eurol BT
INCI name: olive leaf extract
Suggested use level: 0.1-0.5%
Applications: skin care and anti-aging creams and lotions
Comments: Naturally-derived free radical scavenger, antioxidant and anti-inflammatory.
Lema Oil
INCI name: tea tree (melaleuca alternifolia) oil (and) leptospermum scoparium oil
Suggested use level: 0.2-0.5%
Applications: hand sanitizers, antispetics, acne treatments and antibacterial personal care products
Comments: Anti-microbial and anti-inflammatory.
Seve Marine
INCI name: water (and) algae extract (blidingia minima)
Suggested use level: 1-3%
Applications: skin creams and lotions
Comments: Moisturizing action, improves dynamic and static hydration and rebuilds intercellular cement.
RITA Corp.
Woodstock, IL
Tel: (815) 337-2500
Fax: (815) 337-2522
Website: www.ritacorp.com
E-mail: cservice@ritacorp.com
Ritafactant 138AN
INCI name: decyl glucoside (and) lauroyl lactylate
Suggested use level: up to 30%
Applications: baby products, around the eye products, mild shampoos, body washes
Comments: Ritafactant 138AN is an excellent “all natural” surfactant blend that is extremely mild and stable. An ideal amide-free and sulfate-free system.
Iris ISO
INCI name: decyl glucoside (and) sodium lauroyl lactylate
Suggested use level: up to 30%
Applications: anti-stress and anti-age formulations
Comments: Iris ISO is rich in isoflavones from iris and thanks to its estrogen-like activity, it helps to fight against wrinkle formation, dryness and skin slackening.
Toniskin
INCI name: yeast extract
Suggested use level: 2-5%
Applications: anti-age and anti-wrinkle products
Comments: As a result of its action against wrinkles and flaccid skin, Toniskin harmoniously remodels facial contours. The skin has more tone and seems younger. Toniskin is a genuine skin anti-stress product and is a must for fatigued skin.
Roche Vitamins, Inc.
Parsippany, NJ
Tel: (973) 257-8332
Fax: (973) 257-8580
Lutein
INCI name: lutein
Suggested use level: 0.1%
Applications: lip care, creams, lotions
Comments: Used as an antioxidant and natural colorant.
Mixed Tocopherols
INCI name: tocopherols
Suggested use level: 0.05-0.25%
Applications: skin care
Comments: Antioxidants.
Natural Vitamin E
INCI name: vitamin E acetate
Suggested use level: 0.5-50%
Applications: skin care, hair care, lip care
Comments: In vivo antioxidant, moisturizer.
Sabinsa Corporation
Piscataway, NJ
Tel: (732) 777-1111
Fax: (732) 777-1443
Website: www.sabinsa.com
E-mail: info@sabinsa.com
Ursolic Acid
INCI name: ursolic acid
Suggested use level: 0.2-1.5% in creams, lotions, gels and lip balms
Applications: anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial, antioxidant, skin texturizer
Comments: Standardized to contain a minimum of 90% ursolic acid.
Cosmoperine
INCI name: tetrahydropiperine
Suggested use level: 0.01-0.1%
Applications: skin permeation enhancer for other active ingredients in formulations
Comments: Contains a minimum of 48% tetrahydropiperine.
Rosemary Extract CG
INCI name: rosmarinus officinalis
Suggested use level: 0.02-0.5%
Applications: provides antioxidant, antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory effects
Comments: Standardized to contain not less than 15% carnosic acid and 20% ursolic acid.
Sederma Inc.
Parsippany, NJ
Tel: (973) 993-2973
Fax: (973) 644-9222
Website: www.croda.com
E-mail: marketing@croda.com
Bacocalmine
INCI name: bacopa monniera extract (and) water (and) PEG-8 (and) hydroxyethylcellulose
Suggested use level: 3-5%
Applications: protective day creams, sun care products, shower gels, body care, scalp preparations, “Zen-concept” products
Comments: Based on anti-stress herb of Ayurvedic healing system; protects against daily aggressions; decreases cutaneous sensitivity; free radical scavenger effect proven in vitro; inhibits lipid peroxidation; protects against oxidation; proven against oxidation; proven anti-irritant and anti-inflammatory effects.
Capislow
INCI name: water (and) butylene glycol (and) glycerin (and) larrea divaricata extract (and) lecithin
Suggested use level: 3%
Applications: depilatories, deodorants, shaving products, treatment products for excessive pilosity
Comments: Capislow is a plant-derived molecule that targets the problems of unwanted hair by slowing the metabolic activity involved in the hair’s growth process. Capislow moderates the re-growth of body hair, slows down the cell growth rate and inhibits prostaglandin synthesis (anti-inflammatory effect). Efficacy of product proven in 28-day clinical study that showed treatment with Capislow significantly reduced the rate of hair re-growth on the legs of female volunteers.
Pleurimincyl
INCI name: butylene glycol (and) PEG-8 (and) bupleurum falcatum extract
Suggested use level: 3%
Applications: anti-cellulite and other slimming products
Comments: Pleurimincyl is an extract based on a Chinese medicinal plant and an entirely new kind of slimming agent that stimulates lypolysis by increasing cyclic AMP via the G protein. In vitro testing indicates that skin receptors on the adipocyte membrane appear to recognize the active ingredients in Pleurimincyl as activators of the G protein. In an in vivo study, well over half the panelists who used a cream containing Pleurimincyl reported positive improvements in their figure.
Raifortaise
INCI name: water (and) glycerin (and) caffeic acid (and) horseradish peroxidase
Suggested use level: 1-3%
Applications: day creams and lotions, body lotions, sun care products, skin protecting products, facial care, anti-aging products
Comments: Raifortaise is a purified plant enzyme complex based on horseradish peroxidase and caffeic acid. Product protects skin by detoxifying hydrogen peroxide and the superoxide anion, mimicking the free radical scavenging activity of superoxide dismutase and catalase. Separate in vitro studies have documented the product’s “super catalase” activity as compared to that of the actual enzymes.
Silab
Brive, France
Tel: (33) 555 84 5840
Fax: (33) 555 84 95 64
Astressyl
INCI name: willow (lalix alba) leaf extract
Suggested use level: 2-5%
Applications: anti-stress and anti-aging products
Comments: Rich in polyphenols obtained from white willow leaves, Astressyl is a veritable anti-stress cure for the skin, enhances the natural systems of protecting cells and compensates the reduced rate of HSP in the course of aging.
Fermiskin
INCI name: water (and) lentinus edodes extract
Suggested use level: 1-5%
Applications: firming agent for the body and bust
Comments: Rich in oligosaccharides and galacturonic acids extracted from shiitake, Fermiskin is a genuine anti-MMPs counter-offensive agent, maintains the integrity of support tissues and combats accelerated aging of the skin.
Sino Lion (USA), Ltd.
New York, NY
Tel: (212) 466-1701
Fax: (212) 466-5303
Website: www.sinolion.com
E-mail: egsu@sinolion.com
HerbSense CA-10
INCI name: butylene glycol (and) centella asiatica extract
Suggested use level: 0.1-5%
Applications: creams, lotions, all skin care and sun care products
Comments: HerbSense CA-10 is a standardized Chinese herbal extract-centella asiatica extract in butylene glycol, which contains 10% solids with asiaticoside being the main constituent. It has showed anti-bacterial activity and wound healing properties. It has also been shown to promote the growth of new connective tissue, keratinization and regeneration of epidermis, as well as eliminate pimples on the face.
HerbSense GP-5
INCI name: butylene glycol (and) gyrostemma penta phyllum extract
Suggested use level: 2-20%
Applications: creams, lotions, all skin care and sun care products
Comments: HerbSense GP-5 is a standardized Chinese herbal extract-gyrostemma penta phyllum extract in butylene glycol, which contains 5% solids with gyperoside being the main constituent. It has been shown to improve scalp microcirculation, prompt lipid secretion and blacken the hair. It is also shown to have anti-lipidperoxide activity and improve the activity of SOD.
HerbSense PC-5
INCI name: butylene glycol (and) polygonum cuspidatum root extract
Suggested use level: 2-10%
Applications: creams, lotions, all skin care and sun care products
Comments: HerbSense PC-5 is a standardized Chinese herbal extract-polygonum cuspidatum extract in butylene glycol, which contains 5% solids with resveratrol being the main constituent. Resveratrol has striking anti-oxidant and anti-inflammatory activities that have been considered to be responsible for the beneficial effects of red wine consumption.
Resveratrol has also been shown to have cancer chemopreventive activity in assays representing three major stages of carcinogenesis. Resveratrol reduced both the number of skin tumors that developed per mouse and the number of mice developing tumors in skin tests in mice. HerbSense PC-5 is expected to offer many health benefits for skin care and sun care products due to its content of resveratrol from natural origin.
SNP Natural Products Pty. Ltd.
Sydney, Australia
Tel: (61) 2-92211811
Fax: (61) 2-92217088
E-mail: enquiry@snp-aromas.com.au
Melaleucol
INCI name: p-menth-1-en-4-ol
Suggested use level: 0.1-1%
Applications: skin care, oral hygiene, foot care, hair care, deodorants
Comments: Melaleucol is a natural, broad spectrum antimicrobial obtained by fractional distillation of tea tree oil (oil of melaleuca alternifolia). Melaleucol also displays excellent topical anti-inflammatory properties and has good preservative action plus low odor.
Strahl & Pitsch
West Babylon, NY
Tel: (631) 587-9000
Fax: (631) 587-9120
Website: www.spwax.com
Purester 24
INCI name: laurel laurate
Suggested use level: 3-5%
Applications: color cosmetics, skin care, personal care
Comments: A new line of vegetable-derived esters.
Purester 34
INCI name: stearyl palmitate
Suggested use level: 3-5%
Applications: color cosmetics, skin care, personal care
Comments: A new line of vegetable-derived esters.
Purester 40
INCI name: stearyl benenate
Suggested use level: 3-5%
Applications: color cosmetics, skin care, personal care
Comments: A new line of vegetable-derived esters.
Tri-K Industries, Inc.
Northvale, NJ
Tel: (201) 750-1055
Fax: (201) 750-9785
Website: www.tri-k.com
E-mail: info@tri-k.com
Emuliance
INCI name: cetearyl wheat bran glycosides (and) cetearyl alcohol
Suggested use level: 3-5%
Applications: body and skin care products, personal hygiene products, hair care products, sun products
Comments: Emuliance is a wheat bran derived, self-emulsifying base ideal for the development of new eco-friendly products. The obtained emulsions offer outstanding qualities regarding smoothness, touch and emollience.
Olivoil Glutinate
INCI name: hydrolyzed wheat protein olivate
Suggested use level: 2-20%
Applications: facial cleansers, body wash, shower gels, shampoos
Comments: Olivoil glutinate is a new, mild, natural surfactant which combines the fatty acid profile of olive oil with hydrolyzed wheat proteins to give an efficient, time-durable, foaming product. Its performance, mildness and natural derivation make it an ideal choice as a primary or secondary surfactant system.
Abyssine 657
INCI name: alteromonas ferment extract
Suggested use levels:
Applications: skin care prodcuts, sun care products
Comments: Abyssine 657 is a novel, natural ingredient that delivers many positive benefits to skin care products. It is quite effective in reducing irritable, hyper-active or simply sensitive skin.
