One way to improve a personal care product’s efficacy is active ingredients. After all, more than dermatologists, television advertising, online searches or “best of” awards, the number one influence in helping a woman decide which anti-aging products to buy is the recommendation of her friends, family and coworkers, reported NPD. Actives make these products deliver.
“The ability of personal care products to deliver active ingredients is what defines good skin care,” said Jeannette Graf MD, assistant clinical professor of dermatology, The Mount Sinai Medical Center, New York, NY. “Proper and effective delivery of active ingredients can directly impact the appearance. In order to be considered active, the ingredient must be present in the proper concentration to deliver an effective result. Today’s consumer is quite educated about skin care and companies are using active ingredients as well as effective delivery systems to create high performance products.”
“The benefits of utilizing active ingredients in skin care products is that you have proven biological activity, which gives a greater chance of having a better clinical outcome,” added Neil Sadick, Sadick Dermatology, New York, NY. “These active ingredients are most commonly clinically tested and/or the findings are published in peer-reviewed journals.”
An Inside View
Industry suppliers agree that effective actives can be an asset to making skin care products stand out. When asked about the benefits of actives ingredients in skin care products, Sarah Teichmueller, marketing manager, Rovi Cosmetics International GmbH, Germany, told Happi, “The counter question is ‘what would skin care be without active ingredients?’The reason why we use skin care is to target certain skin issues or in other words to achieve a certain goal. The choice of active ingredients in a formulation characterizes the product.”
According to Eric Lippay, senior technical marketing manager, North America Skin Care, DSM Personal Care, Parsippany, NJ, “Active ingredients can deliver real benefits that are not usually possible with other cosmetic forms. They give companies making skin care products a significant advantage by being able to add ingredients backed by scientific proof of efficacy and targeted to specific benefits. Claim space can be expanded and consumers are the beneficiaries with these expanded skin care benefits including firming, evening tone or reducing the appearance of wrinkles, for example.”
Another instance, added Lippay, is that an active that can boost hyaluronan naturally in the skin could provide a much longer and different benefit than topically applied hyaluronic acid.
For the eye area, both peptides as well as combinations of actives may be needed to resolve the issues. Peptide products like Syn-Coll or Syn-Tacks from DSM can help to alleviate the appearance of wrinkles, as well as provide a smoothing effect on the crow’s feet area.
“In order to really have an effect on the combination of dark circles and puffy eyes, you need a combination of actives such those found in DSM’s Regu-Age,” said Lippay. “This ingredient combines oxido reductases with two other actives to reduce the appearance of dark circles and diminish puffiness.”
Dawn Thiel Glaser, technology manager, personal care division, Glenn Corporation, White Bear Lake, MN, agrees that peptides are imperative for effectual skin care.
“Peptides have been in vogue for several years now, and are continuing to gain popularity,” she said.
“With the advent of DNA microarrays, suppliers can offer specific, targeted functionality with their peptides.”
Marine-based extracts and botanical extracts have been popular for some time, too, Thiel Glaser noted. More suppliers, however, are now providing information on the actual active molecule within the extract and its mechanism of action.
“Tried and true actives such as ceramides, and hyaluronic acid variants are maintaining their popularity,” she told Happi. “In the case of hyaluronic acid (HYA), there has been renewed interest in new, smaller molecules which have a better chance at penetrating the stratum corneum to provide benefits from within.”
An Added Bonus
Speaking of benefits from within, during the past decade there has been a growing trend toward natural actives, as consumers desire to minimize use of synthetic chemical substances, noted Kavita Subramanian, senior manager, international business, Sabinsa Corporation, East Windsor, NJ.
“Cosmetics containing natural active compounds are increasingly in demand by consumers,” Subramanian said. “The area of active ingredients application in cosmetics is quite wide and contains several unique compounds.”
In general, botanicals provide different vitamins, essential oils, dyes, tannins, proteins, terpenoids, alkaloids, polyphenols and other bioactive molecules. Skin lightening, anti-aging (anti-wrinkle, antioxidants), sun care and moisturizing ingredients are popular products today, noted Subramanian.
Due to the aging population of Baby Boomers, the anti-aging market is growing, too.
“Most recently, the emerging trend of ‘beauty inside and out’ is becoming increasingly popular, wherein nutricosmetics and topically applied cosmeceuticals work in harmony to promote physical experience and well-being,” added Subramanian.
Actives & The OTC Market
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Sabinsa’s offerings in this category include Saberry, a powdered extract of the fruits of amla extract that helps protect the skin from the damaging effects of free radicals and heavy metal-induced oxidative stress. It is regarded as one of the best rejuvenating herbs, said Subramanian.
Saberry can help rebuild the skin collagen matrix and restore, to some degree, a youthful appearance to the skin, Subramanian told Happi.With the added advantage of its potential antioxidant activity, Saberry also can help in the management of sunlight-induced photo damage.
“Plant extracts are very popular in actives, especially when they can support a sustainable positioning as most of the brands have taken this orientation, either as a front marketing positioning or as part of the core strategy of the company,” confirmed Bethsabée Coutaz, Laboratoires Sérobiologiques division of Cognis France, now part of BASF, global marketing director, Laboratoires Sérobiologiques Paris, France.
Today’s power actives truly run the gamut, according to Raymond Sourial, sales director, Centerchem, Inc., Norwalk, CT.
“There was a point when peptides were all the rage. Then, natural ingredients gained the spotlight. Now, customers may shade one way or another, but generally they ask for ingredients that work,” he told Happi. “I can’t tell you how many times I’ve been told that the customer wants natural ingredients. Then, they follow it up with a statement like, ‘but if you have something synthetic or biotech that really works, we can make it fit.’”
Facing Forward
So, what are the future trends in active ingredients for 2012 and beyond? Sources concur that novel components lead the way in terms of better products with better results.
“Skin care products will continue to go from the cosmeceutical to the ‘cosmolecular.’ This is a term that describes the trend in skin care toward molecular mechanisms and looking inside the cell as opposed to outside of the skin,” said Graf.
Natural ingredient technologies and green environmentally friendly skin care will continue to flourish and the science of their molecular mechanisms will continue to be defined, she added.
The rise is the advancement of natural actives is indeed on the rise, agreed Lippay of DSM Personal Care.
“More naturals will be developed and refined with stronger supporting in-vitro and in-vivo studies,” he said.
Thiel Glaser of Glenn Corporation told Happi that there will be more targeted functionality with the use of microarrays in actives.Additionally, the debate on “drug versus cosmetic” will continue, she said.
According to Sadick, detoxifying agents, which protect against free radical damage and protein denaturation in cells—as well as stem cell modulators, to stimulate reproduction as well as to keep cells alive for a longer period of time—are key to the progression of active ingredients. Products with improved protection functions during the day, as well as the combination use of active plus at-home technologies for treatment of acne, photoaging, skin tightening and hair removal will also be big in 2012, he said.
“Active ingredients have a bright future. The pace of the growth of knowledge and innovation will allow more areas to be explored,” agreed Sourial of Centerchem. “In order to predict where the future for active ingredients lies, one simply needs to look at recent scientific and medical discoveries. In the same way that changes in surgical procedures, nutrition and protection have already altered the active ingredient landscape, I am sure that we are in store for more such developments.”
New ActiveIngredients 2011
Here is a list of new active ingredients introduced by industry suppliers during the past 12 months. To learn more about any of the products listed here, contact the suppliers directly using the information provided below.
Distributed by Brenntag Specialties Inc.
South Plainfield, NJ
Tel: (800) 732-0562
Email: avenacare@biovelop.com,
specialties@brenntag.com
Website: www.avenacare.com,
www.brenntagspecialties.com
Avenacare Oat Beta Glucan
INCI: Oat beta glucan
Suggested use levels: 1-10%
Applications: Skin care, sun care, hair care
Comments: This unique hypoallergenic ingredient, naturally derived from locally grown, non-GMO, Swedish oats, is renowned for its anti-aging, rejuvenating and soothing properties. The Avenacare oat beta glucan molecules stimulate the synthesis of collagen, reduce fine lines and wrinkles, increase skin firmness and elasticity, accelerate wound healing, soothe skin irritations, hydrate the skin and protect against the damaging effects of UVA/UVB light. Avenacare oat beta glucan can also be incorporated into hair care products, where it provides nourishment to the hair, improves tensile strength, adds body and helps repair damaged hair.
Taipei, Taiwan
Tel: +886 2 8751 6060
Email: marketing@corum.com.tw
sales@corum.com.tw
Website: www.corum.com.tw
Corum 9515
INCI: Ethyl ascorbic acid
Suggested use levels: 2%
Applications: Skin care products, whitening serum, whitening lotion and whitening cream
Comments: Corum 9515 (ethyl ascorbic acid) is a new generation of stable vitamin C derivative that has a whitening effect and serves to promote collagen synthesis. It exhibits a strong melanogenesis inhibition effect. It also works as L-ascorbic acid to reduce dark spots and achieve anti-oxidation effect. Furthermore, Corum 9515 is able to protect DNA from being damaged.
Warwick, RI
Tel: (800) 521-0065
Email: orders@dewolfchem.com
Website: www.dewolfchem.com
Beracare Triple A System
INCI: Copaifera officinalis oil (and) carapa guaianensis nut oil (and) euterpe olerracea oil
Suggested use levels: 1.5%
Applications: Anti-acne
Comments: Beracare Triple A system was developed to improve the health of acne-prone skin. The effectiveness of this product is obtained because of the synergy between different natural constituents.
Botany Grapes
INCI: Vitis vinifera (grape) seed extract (and) silica
Suggested use levels: Up to 0.2%
Applications: Skin care anti-aging, hair care
Comments: A standardized extract used as an active ingredient for skin and hair care formulations with anti-aging and anti-puffiness properties at dosages of 0.1-0.5%. The incorporation is recommended at temperatures below 70°C.
DSM Nutritional Products, LLC
North American Distributor—Centerchem, Inc.
Tel: (203) 822-9800
Email: cosmetics@centerchem.com
Website: www.centerchem.com
Regu-Fade
INCI: Resveratrol
Suggested use levels: Up to 1%
Applications: Cosmetic applications include skin-brightening facial and body care products, creams and serums for age spots and anti-aging skin care products for a more even skin tone.
Comments: Regu-Fade is a high-performing, fast-acting and preservative-free active that offers multifunctional and excellent skin lightening properties for radiant and youthful-looking skin. Cosmetic applications include skin brightening facial and body care products, creams and serums for age spots and anti-aging skin care products for a more even skin tone.
White Bear Lake, MN
Tel: (888) 453-6267
Email: orders@glenncorp.com
Website: www.glenncorp.com
Botany Centella
INCI: Centella asiatica extract (and) maltodextrin (and) silica
Suggested use levels: 1-5%
Applications: Skin care
Comments: This is a standardized extract used as an active ingredient for skin care formulations with anti-aging, firming and calming properties at dosages of 1-5%. The incorporation is recommended at temperatures below 70°C.
Sensolene Care DD
INCI: Dodecyl olivate
Suggested use levels: 1-5%
Applications: Sun care, skin care, AP/deodorants, color cosmetics
Comments: Melting point mimics that of skin lipids immediate (1 hour) and long-term moisturization (up to 8 hours) immediate (1 hour) and long-term elasticity (up to 8 hours) very good spread, no tack, EcoCert
Abil EM-180
INCI: Cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 dimethicone
Suggested use levels: 0.5-2.5%
Applications: Skin care
Comments: High formulation flexibility without facing any stability issues, robust systems that can easily be produced, compatible with all types of oils and active ingredients. Able to handle high load of UV filters (e.g. U.S. sun protection formulas with high SPF)
Gova BVBA
Belgium, Antwerp
Tel: 0032/36-36-32-31
Email: info@gova-benelux.be
Website: www.gova-benelux.be
Biodine V
INCI: Macadamia ternifolia seed oil, phospholipids, glycine soja sterol, stearic acid, glycerin, safflower oil/palm oil aminopropanediol esters, squalane
Suggested use levels: 0.3-0.5%, rinse off 0.5-4.0% leave on
Applications: Skin and body care, bodywash
Comments: Sensitive, dry or damaged skin suffers from a partially destroyed hydrolipidic film. Biodine V repairs this damage instantly thanks to its similar composition and liquid crystal structure.
Paterson, NJ
Tel: (973) 345-8600
Email:
salesandmarketing@lipochemicals.com
Website: www.lipochemicals.com
Liposhield HEV Melanin
INCI: Melanin
Suggested use levels: 0.2-1.0%
Applications: Daily wear moisturizing creams and lotions; anti-aging treatment products; sunscreen products; foundation makeup; hand creams
Comments: Liposhield HEV Melanin is the first cosmetic ingredient designed to protect the skin from damaging high-energy visible light
Bioferrin 5000
INCI: Apo-lactoferrin
Suggested use levels: 0.5-1.0%
Applications: Face creams, hand and body lotions, lip treatment products, soothing after-sun products, baby products
Comments: Bioferrin 5000 is patent pending for elevating hyaluronic acid levels in human tissue to promote significant skin hydration following topical application.
Rejuverrin
INCI: Whey protein
Suggested use levels: 0.5-1.0%
Applications: Anti-aging face and eye creams; hand and body lotions; lip repair creams; foundation makeup; soothing post-treatment lotions; rich prestige and spa lines.
Comments: A natural multifunctional anti-aging solution with anti-aging benefits for skin regeneration, restructuring and repair.
Lumerrin
INCI: Hydrolyzed whey protein
Suggested use levels: 2-5%
Applications: Facial creams and serums; hand and body lotions; foundations; soothing after-sun creams and lotions.
Comments: Research shows Lumerrin significantly reduced the accumulation of melanin and thus may be useful in cosmetic applications for skin brightening, minimizing age spots and evening skin tone.
Lipotec
North American Distributor—Centerchem, Inc.
Norwalk, CT
Tel: (203) 822-9800
Email: cosmetics@centerchem.com
Website: www.centerchem.com
Silusyne
INCI: Water (aqua), soybean (glycine soja) oil, propanediol, sorbitan sesquioleate, isohexadecane, hydroxypropyl starch phosphate, sclerotium gum, sodium hyaluronate, lauryldimonium hydroxypropyl, hydrolyzed soy protein, acetyl hexapeptide-39
Suggested use levels: 2%
Applications: Silusyne is a perfect ingredient for anti-cellulite and slimming treatments and as a complement in any type of body care formulation.
Comments: Silusyne is a paraben-free active ingredient that reduces adipocyte differentiation. Silusyne helps to improve the appearance of visible cellulite as dermo-hypodermal junction irregularities are smoothed.
Mibelle Biochemistry
Buchs, Switzerland
Tel: +41 62 836 17 31
Email: info@mibellebiochemistry.com
Website: www.mibellebiochemistry.com
PhytoCellTec Argan
INCI: Argania spinosa sprout cell extract
Suggested use levels: 0.4-1%
Applications: Stem cell cosmetics, anti-aging
Comments: First active ingredient designed to delay the depletion of the dermal stem cells
SunActin
INCI: Helianthus annuus (sunflower) sprout extract
Suggested use levels: 2-5%
Applications: Sun care with an SPF protection, sun care, anti-aging
Comments: It protects the skin against oxidative stress and complements the protective effect of sunscreens.
LIPerfection
INCI: Brassica alba sprout extract
Suggested use levels: 2-5%
Applications: Lipstick, lip care formulas, lip contour treatment
Comments: The active increases the volume and the hydration of the lips. Absolute volume—luscious feel.
Provital
North American Distributor—Centerchem, Inc.
Norwalk, CT
Tel: (203) 822-9800
Email: cosmetics@centerchem.com
Website: www.centerchem.com
Cinnamon Ecoft
INCI: Propanediol, water, cinnamomum zeylanicum bark extract
Suggested use levels: 0.5-5.0%
Applications: Cinnamon Ecoft extract is recommended in the formulation of cosmetic products intended to preserve the integrity of skin and hair against oxidative processes as well as products with stimulating activity on blood microcirculation.
Comments: Cinnamon Ecoft extract is produced from the bark of C.zeylanicum, rich in polyphenols and sugars, coming from organic crops and fair trade practices. It exhibits the following cosmetic properties: dermo-stimulant activity, antioxidant activity, antiglycation activity, antimicrobial activity and astringent activity.
Rahn AG
Zurich, Switzerland
Tel: +41 44 315 42 00
Email: Cosmetics@rahn-group.com
Website: www.rahn-group.com
North America: contact Kinetik Technologies, Inc.
Hazlet, NJ
Tel: (732) 335-5775
Fax: (732) 335-0210
Reforcyl
INCI: Glycerin, water, glutamine, decyl glucoside, phenethyl alcohol, cistus incanus flower/leaf/stem extract, gynostemma pentaphyllum leaf/stem extract
Suggested use levels: 1-5%
Applications: Anti-age products for mature skin. Suitable for O/W and W/O emulsions, gels and serums
Comments: Activation of LXR in human primary keratinocytes (in-vitro study). Activation of key enzymes involved in epidermal lipid synthesis (in-vitro study). Improvement of hydration, firmness, elasticity and smoothness of skin (in-vivo study). Visibleimprovement of wrinkle depth in eye area (in-vivo study). Free of preservatives, Ecocert listed.
Slimexir
INCI: Water, levan, cynara scolymus (artichoke) fruit extract (suggested name), decyl glucoside, phenethyl alcohol, glucose, caffeine, theobromine, methyl xanthine, paraxanthine
Suggested use levels: 2-10%
Applications: Body care products to refine the silhouette and re-contour the body. Suitable for O/W and W/O emulsions, gels and lotions.
Comments: Prevents formation of new adipocytes (in-vitro study). Reduces lipid accumulation in adipocytes (in-vitro study). Stimulates degradation of existing fat (in-vitro study). Triggers fragmentation of lipid droplets (postulated mechanism) (in-vitro study). Leads to a significant reduction of abdomen volume (in-vivo study). Free of preservatives.
Resources of Nature LLC
South Plainfield, NJ
Tel: (908) 226-5123
Email: info@roninc.com
Website: www.roninc.com
Distinctive Phytostem Edelweiss
INCI: Glycerin, leontopodium alpinum meristem cell culture, xanthan gum
Suggested use levels: 0.5-5%
Applications: Anti-aging wrinkle depth reduction
Comments: Recent advances in plant cell culturing technology have allowed us to efficiently produce rare antioxidants which are naturally occurring in plants. This new technique of manufacturing botanical-based ingredients captures the essence of the most active plant chemistry. The process produces ingredients, which are beyond certified organic in purity, are completely eco-friendly and non-GMO. Specifically plant stem cells cultures from Edelweiss deliver powerful adaptogen antioxidants (leontopodic acids) to clinically reduce depth of wrinkles around the eye area by 15% after 20 days of treatment.
Instalift Goji GF
INCI: Water, lycium barbarum fruit extract
Suggested use levels: 3%
Applications: Instant skin firming
Comments: Instalift Goji is an isolated active glycopeptide fraction from the goji berry which combines the skin lifting and firming strength of both proteins and polysaccharides. This specific glycopeptide fraction forms a perfect rigid lifting mesh to support sagging and wrinkled skin for creating an immediate visible lifting appearance with a clinical improvement in skin firmness by 26.8% within one hour of application. Instalift Goji further offers critical long-term anti-aging functions via: inhibition of MMP 1 expression, antioxidant efficacy, anti-apoptotic activity, and collagen stimulation for a complete anti-aging treatment.
DC Detoxdefense
INCI: Water, phospholipids, butylene glycol, cordyceps sinensis extract, beta vulgaris (beet) root extract
Suggested use levels: 1-3%
Applications: Anti-aging skin protection
Comments: DC Detoxdefense is a “smart ingredient” comprised of multi-layer, phospholipid-based vesicles concentrated with protective and detoxifying extracts. By supporting the skin’s own DNA expression and cell protection, DC Detoxdefense defends against premature aging and helps maintain a healthy, beautiful complexion. Highly skin compliant, DC Detoxdefense is readily absorbed by the skin offering optimal delivery of potent, naturally occurring cell regulating compounds. These main component cordyceps, a mushroom-like fungus rich in adenosine, cordycepic acid, minerals, amino acids and vitamins, has been used throughout Asia for many centuries to help maintain and improve health. DC Detoxdefense is proven efficacious in expressing intracellular superoxide dismutase (SOD) for up-regulating skin’s own protective defenses against superoxide free radicals and other environmental insults including protection against photodamage.
Rovi Cosmetics International GmbH
Schlüchtern, Germany
Tel: +496661 96760
Email: info@rovicosmetics.de
Website: www.rovicosmetics.de
Herbapurifine
INCI: Water/aqua, butylene glycol, lecithin, salix alba bark extract, bakuchiol, magnolia grandiflora leaf extract
Suggested use levels: 3%
Applications: Adult skin impurities, reduction of efflorescences (comedones, papels, pustules), sebum reduction, inhibition of pro-inflammatory proteins, antibacterial, reducing itchiness
Comments: Tested in-vivo and in vitro, Preservative free, Ecocert compliant.
UniTone
INCI: Water/aqua, alcohol, lecithin, ethyl ascorbic acid, propylene glycol, behentrimonium chloride, aloesin, hexylresorcinol, sodium citrate, disodium EDTA
Suggested use levels: 3%
Applications: Skin whitening, local skin depigmentation, effective reduction of the skin’s intra- and extracellular melanin content, effective reduction of the tyrosinase activity
Comments: Tested in-vivo (5D Intravital Tomography) and in vitro, cell targeted delivery
Sabinsa Corporation
East Windsor, NJ
Tel: (732) 777-1111
Email: Deborah@sabinsa.com, kavita@sabinsa.com
Website: www.sabinsacosmetics.com
PteroWhite
INCI: Pterocarpus marsupium bark extract
Suggested use levels: 0.1-0.5% w/w
Applications: Antioxidant, skin lightening
Comments: PteroWhite is a proprietary natural pterostilbene ingredient for cosmetic application, extracted from the dried heartwood of Pterocarpus marsupium.
SabiLize
INCI: Cinnamomum zeylanicum bark oil, eugenia caryophyllus (clove) leaf oil, cymbopogon citratus leaf oil, glyceryl laurate and thymus vulagaris (thyme) leaf oil
Suggested use levels: 0.2-1.0%
Applications: Anti-microbial and preservative
Comments: SabiLize is a proprietary blend of natural anti-microbial actives with a proven preservative efficacy.
Artonox
INCI: Artocarpus lakoocha wood extract
Suggested use levels: 0.1-0.5%
Applications: Skin lightening
Comments: Artonox is obtained from the dried heartwood of artocarpus lakoocha. It is standardized for oxyresveratrol 95%, which is an analog of resveratrol.
Silab
Brive, France
Tel: 33-555-84-58-40
Email: silab@silab.fr
Website: www.silab.fr
Instensyl
INCI: Hydrolyzed manihot esculenta tuber extract
Suggested use levels: 1-7%
Applications: Face and body
Comments: Created from a new sugar reticulation technology, the 3D molecular network of Instensyl performs by anchoring and spreading itself at the skin surface to form a viscoelastic film, within a fast timeframe. Stable and articulated, this glucan biopolymer (Manihot esculenta) immediately provokes lifting and smoothing effects with demonstrated sensorial properties. Instensyl is to be used in all face and body care, in all kind of formulae.
Oxygeskin
INCI: Tropaeolum majus flower/leaf/stem extract
Suggested use levels: 1-3%
Applications: Face and body
Comments: Rich in arabinogalactans from nasturtium, Oxygeskin restores the capacities of the cells to respond to the hypoxic stress and helps the intracellular diffusion of oxygen. This double mechanism promotes skin oxygenation and conducts to a smoothed skin surface and improved complexion radiance. Oxygeskin brightens dull skin. It is recommended for all complexion skin care.•