Natural product positioning has enjoyed continued popularity with brands looking to nature for concept ingredients such as stem cells and botanical extracts. This column will briefly explore moisturizing benefit-offering plant oils that are generating growing interest with the consumers. Anti-aging technology is the fastest growing segment of facial moisturizer market.¹ According to Sarah Jindal, senior innovation and insight analyst at Mintel, in the past six years 2,862 oil-based facial products were launched globally and their market share is growing in Europe and North America and is expected to continue. 

Oil in skin care has been used for thousands of years in the East, but has long been regarded as “bad” for the skin in the West. Of course, oil-free moisturizer is preferred when sebum production is abundant, but oil-based formulations are ideal for consumers with dry skin and they are preferred where skin barrier defects exist. There was a widespread notion that oils are heavy, greasy, sit on the skin, clog the pores and are comedogenic. Many skin care products in the West claim “oil free” as being huge positive benefits of formulations. The main ingredient in oil free formulations is dimethicone. Although no single moisturizer meets the needs of all consumers, these products play a role in facial anti-aging skin care.²

An Array of Benefits
There are several reasons why plant oil-based products are growing in popularity: 

• The acceptance of oils for the face in the West has been with cleansing oil products.
• They have been widely adopted as an effective way of cleansing the skin and removing makeup without stripping the skin.
• Consumers do not perceive these products to be oily. 
• Consumers see oils penetrating the skin almost immediately going deep within the pores, permeating the skin easily. 
• They do not experience any adverse skin reactions, their skin does not breakout. 

No wonder why beauty brands are flooding the shelves with oils for every complexion or concern. Leading dermatologists encourage consumers to use these products because they are safe, deliver potent nutrients to skin, deeply hydrate the skin and fight many signs of aging.

Only 17% of people have used an oil-based skin care product, according to a Mintel survey.  But the other 83% should get on board, according to dermatologist Ellen Marmur of the Icahn School of Medicine at Mount Sinai Hospital, New York, NY. 

“The newest oils are intelligent products that can deliver active ingredients to the skin and provide an effective barrier,” she explained. Occlusive agents such as petrolatum, waxes and oils, increase skin moisture level by providing a physical barrier to epidermal water loss. Some occlusive agents impart a heavy, greasy skin feel; to reduce this effect they are combined with other emollients. As with most skin care products, a single oil does not fit all consumers.

Oil Options
For acne/oily skin, it is preferable to use a blend of tea tree oil, which has antibacterial properties; argan oil, which is a lightweight moisturizer and squalane oil, which calms down overactive sebaceous glands, explained Dermatologist Jeanette Graf.

For fine lines and wrinkles, look for oils that are formulated with antioxidants or anti-aging ingredients like vitamin A, according to Dermatologist Ellen Marmur, who added that, for sensitive skin, look for oils infused with soothing properties such as patchouli, chamomile, lavender, rose, and sandalwood oils. Another option is chia seed oil, which contains essential fatty acid. For uneven tone and dark spots, citrus-based oils are best because they contain a natural form of skin brightening vitamin C.  Soothing oils are also effective at preventing the inflammation that can result in spots.

Dermatologist Jessica Wu says that there is very little in the way of “clinical trials” showing the anti-aging benefits of oils; however, fatty acids such as linoleic acid, have been shown in scientific studies to be good for dry skin. Dermatologists say it is unclear whether the antioxidants in the oils penetrate sufficiently to benefit the skin.  But since the oils are very light in viscosity, antioxidants stand a better chance of penetrating than those in some other oils, according to Washington DC Dermatologist Tina Alster. High quality natural plant oils are non-comedogenic, non-irritating and fast-absorbing, all of which makes them excellent emollient moisturizers.

Despite their many benefits, however, it is important to remember that topical application of some essential oils could cause skin irritation. To overcome this, it is suggested to use these oils along with diluents oils such as coconut, avocado or sweet almond.

Oils penetrate the skin to hydrate and lubricate and ameliorate the signs of aging.  Oil acts as a surface barrier and protects the skin from irritation and harmful environmental substances such as smoke and pollution. However, as we get older and natural oil production decreases, lines and wrinkles appear. Antioxidant-packed oils trap moisture and help fight the many signs of aging. It is now well established that naturally derived oils penetrate the stratum corneum and provide hydration and radiance to the skin.

References:

1. Rowlings AV, et al. Dermatol. Ther. 17 Suppl. 1:49-56 (2004)
2. Glaser DA, et al. Facial Pl. Surg. Clin. North Am.9(2):189-96(2001 May)

---

Navin M. Geria
Senior Technical Advisor  and Principal Doctors Skin Prescription
www.dspskincare.com

Navin Geria, ex-Pfizer Research Fellow, is senior technical advisor and principal of the dermatological research company, Doctors Skin Prescription (DSP), Boston, founded by dermatologist David J. Goldberg, MD JD and plastic surgeons William P. Adams, MD FACS and Jason Pozner, MD. Geria has more than 30 years of experience in the personal care industry and was previously with Clairol, Warner-Lambert, Schick, Bristol-Myers and most recently, Spa Dermaceuticals. He has earned nearly 20 US patents, has been published extensively and has been both a speaker and a moderator at cosmetic industry events.