Tom Branna , Editorial Director01.06.15
Black Holes? Expanding universe? Multiverse? What do any of them have to do with the pigments, polymers and actives that make up the world of a cosmetic chemist? Well, regardless of your subject, to develop truly novel concepts and products requires looking at problems with a new set of eyes, explained theoretical physicist Brian Greene of Columbia University. Greene was the Frontiers of Science Award Lecturer at the 69th Annual Meeting of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists, held last month in New York City.
According to Estée Lauder’s Akshay Talati, chairman of the SCC Committee on Scientific Affairs, the 2014 annual meeting attracted one of the largest audiences in years, who came to hear presentations on a wide range of cosmetic chemistry topics, attend a technology showcase featuring dozens of posters, mingle with colleagues from all over the US and the world, and close out the year on an upbeat note.
Upbeat, energetic and fascinating would be some of the superlatives to describe Greene’s lecture, “Breakthrough Thinking: Challenging What We Know.” It all starts, he explained, when someone has the hubris to challenge conventional thinking, whether it’s Sir Isaac Newton, Albert Einstein or a precocious elementary school student. Greene told the story of a second-grade girl in art class who, when the teacher asks, “What are you drawing?”
She replies: “God.”
“How can you draw God when no one knows what he looks like?” asks the teacher.
“That’s because I’m not finished, yet,” the little girl explains.
Breakthrough thinking requires standing by your convictions and seeing them through—despite all the naysayers, according to Greene. For example, he suggested that we all might be holograms; i.e., two-dimensional objects, since our environment is surrounded by a thin surface that bounds us at the edge of the observable universe. That means that all the 3D material objects in the world, people, plants, animals, buildings, would be a holographic projection of the information that exists on this giant sphere that surrounds the edge of the observable universe.
“So, we could be the holographic projection of all of that data. Put that in your pipe and smoke it,” he joked.
The holographic principle was developed from the study of black holes. There is evidence that when an object falls into a black hole it doesn’t disappear; instead, it is smeared on the surface of the black hole on something called “the event horizon.”
Researchers theorized that since space inside a black hole isn’t much different than outside a black hole, the same hologram effect may hold true.
Greene went on to suggest that there are parallel universes (the multiverse) where everything is duplicated. That theory developed when one considers that while space may be infinitely far, we can only see a bit of it. In any finite region of space, matter can only arrange itself in finite configurations. So, if space is infinite, there would have to be duplicates—there aren’t enough different arrangements to go around. He likened the arrangement to Swiss cheese where the holes represent duplicate universes and the cheese is an inflation field. Both continue to grow larger as the universe expands.
Which led Greene to his final thought: in the future, researchers won’t understand as much as we do today because they won’t be able to see as many objects in space as today’s astronomers do. And, as everyone knows, seeing is believing.
“Do you believe what you read or what you see?” he asked the audience.
And while he urged the audience to think differently, Greene issued one caveat:
“We’re all great fans of our own thinking, but we need a certain amount of humility,” he cautioned. “Even Einstein built his ideas on the works of others.”
Back to Chemistry
Working with others is often a hallmark of good research, which was on display throughout the SCC Annual Meeting. In the opening session devoted to innovations and emerging trends, Dominik Stuhlmann of Symrise explained how a new material, 3-3-5-trimethylcyclohexyl succinate dimethylamide (Bio1711) boosts proteasomal activity, which improves cell health and the appearance of skin. In vitro studies demonstrated that the compound boosted proteasomal activity by 150%.
“It has good anti-wrinkle activity that is perceived by the customer,” explained Stuhlmann. “Healthy skin cells create a beautiful skin.”
In vivo studies confirmed a significant decrease in surface roughness.
“Everybody gets old; nobody wants to look old,” noted Fred Züelli of Mibelle Biochemistry.
With that in mind, he detailed the benefits of an algae extract of Chlamydocapsa, which boosts the expression of collagen I and III in aged fibroblasts by 63% and 240%, respectively. The activity mimics caloric-restriction activity, which is known to retard the signs of aging and increase lifespan. Specifically, the material upregulates Klotho expression and stimulates AMPK activity.
Cutting calories may be one way to maintain a youthful appearance; reducing stress is another. Exsymol’s Jean-François Nicolay noted that chronic emotional stress can cause hair loss, worsen inflammatory disease and disturb circadian rhythms; all of which leads to premature aging.
“Emotional stress affects the appetite of 80% of people,” he explained. “Half eat more and half eat less.”
Exsymol researchers have developed a material (pGT) that reduces the impact that glucocorticoids, the byproduct of stress, has on white adipose tissue (WAT). Incorporated into formulation at 0.03%, the material opposes cortisol’s affect on WAT innervation that, if left untreated, plays a significant role in fat accumulation.
Thinning hair among men and women can be genetic or stress-related. Induchem’s Fabrice Lefévre detailed the benefits of a new material (DEGZ), which is composed of epigallocatechin gallate glucoside and dihydroquercetin glucoside. In vivo studies confirmed its efficacy: 85% of volunteers showed positive results with an increase of 9% of hair in the anagen phase and a decrease of 17% of hair in the telogen phase. As a result, density increased, on average, of 10,000 hairs, with a high of 28,200 hairs. In fact, the material was twice as effective, in some cases, as Minoxidil, according to Lefévre.
You Can’t Do That!
There were two afternoon concurrent sessions. One, moderated by Dennis Laba of Presperse, was devoted to practical formulations. The second, moderated by Ken Marenus of Estée Lauder, was devoted to the burgeoning amount of laws that handcuff formulators around the world.
In his opening remarks, Kevin Gallagher of Croda, quoted Rob Edmunds, the CEO of Kolmar, who said, “We’re now at the point where the flow of paperwork is more important than the flow of product.”
Listening to presenters made Edmunds’ quote quite evident. Francine Lamoriello of the Personal Care Product Council provided insight on several hotspots including China, Brazil and India. She predicted that China’s proposed labeling regulations would ultimately lead to the proliferation of gray market products. PCPC has made formal comments to the Chinese Food and Drug Administration and the US Government has been working with the Chinese to kill the proposal.
In a bizarre move, Brazilian regulators want to INCI names translated into Portuguese! Obviously, PCPC opposes the action.
“We must save the INCI nomenclature,” said Lamoriello, who noted that PCPC is working with the Brazilian Cosmetic Association (ABIPHEC) to fight the proposal.
Meanwhile, in India, a total animal testing ban is in place, and a new regulation even bans imported products tested on animals.
Most recently, and with no warning, a “vegetarian” label was proposed that requires labels to sport a color dot indicating animal- or vegetable-sourced ingredients. However, a stay was granted after a petition from India’s cosmetic association.
“Industry has a key role to promoting a convergence of regulations,” insisted Lamoriello. “We must engage with regulators around the world.”
Beware the Tsunami
Gallagher noted that chemophobia is alive and well and driven by media that’s hungry for bad news. With regulations on the local, state, national and international stage, coupled with pressures from retailers, non-government organizations, third-party certifiers and the public, there’s been a major impact on innovation as formulators have a limited palette of ingredients from which to choose. What’s worse, it’s going to get worse. Gallagher issued a dire warning to industry regarding the Globally Harmonized System (GHS) for Tariff Regulation.
“GHS is the greatest anti-cosmetic ingredient marketing campaign in the history of mankind. They are horrific,” he charged. “Be warned and be ready, a Tsunami is coming. They (GHS regulations) are written like what would happen if you took your head and stuck it in a drum (of chemicals).”
Using the folk tale “Stone Soup” as an analogy, Gallagher urged suppliers, marketers, associations, third-party certifiers, trade press and even NGOs to work together to try to remedy the situation.
“We can do a lot with a little, as long as we cooperate,” he insisted. “My advice is to be creative; make stone soup. Protect the supply chain. That’s why TSCA (Toxic Substances Control Act) is important. Whatever affects the supply chain affects all of us.”
Few industries have been more impacted by limits placed on its palette of ingredients than the fragrance industry. Prior to the 1990s, the industry happily self-regulated itself, but in the 1990s, the European Union introduced a list of suspected allergens that included 84 ingredients, recalled Steve Herman of Diffusion LLC. Just because a material is on the list doesn’t preclude perfumers from using it, but it would have to be listed on product labels. Rather than start disclosing ingredients, fragrance companies began eliminating widely used materials such as oak moss and tree moss. Now, lyral, a key component of Chanel No. 5 is under fire, according to Herman. He reviewed a typical fragrance formula to demonstrate the different types of components in a fragrance and the issues that can arise from a limited palette of ingredients.
But a shrinking list of fragrance materials isn’t the only headache for perfumers. The California Air Resources Board (CARB), for example, monitors volatile organic compound emission of some fragrance products. Luckily, explained Herman, the Research Institute for Fragrance Materials (RIFM) provides real assistance to fragrance companies through a variety of services, including a vapor pressure database.
“We are blessed to have RIFM,” Herman told the audience. “It is an independent organization that is funded by industry and engages in a dialogue (with regulators).”
Friday’s Program
Amway’s Greg Hillebrand moderated the morning session that was to be devoted to color cosmetics, but when a speaker had to cancel at the last minute, Rebecca James Gadberry stepped in to deliver an insightful talk on genomics, epigenomics and proteomics.
“With aging, everything that is good goes down and everything that is bad goes up,” Gadberry explained matter-of-factly. But by understanding the important role that genomics, epigenomics and proteomics play in maintaining cellular health, formulators can improve cellular health. She noted that 99% of disease is tied to epigenetics and anytime gene regulation occurs it is due to an epigenetic mechanism.
At the same time, proteins play a critical role in human health. Gadberry noted that humans are made up of 70% water and 20% protein, while the remaining 10% is composed of lipids and other materials. There are an estimated 230,000 to 2.5 million proteins in the body, and while collagen and elastin are well known, “think about how many we have not found yet,” observed Gadberry. “Proteomics is critical.”
And although the Food and Drug Administration won’t allow companies to make gene expression claims, Gadberry insisted, “when we target genes, we get real results!”
Rick DiCecca, Artistry’s global makeup artist, returned the session’s focus to color cosmetics by giving a makeup demonstration using SCC President Dawn Burke-Colvin.
“Before you apply makeup, exfoliate and hydrate skin so that it floats,” he advised.
DiCecca also gave tips on how to apply product: work from the middle of the ear toward the nose, for example and he suggested that women should choose the same color cosmetic family as the clothes that look best on them—although he predicted that blue will be on-trend for Spring 2015. As for the guys, DiCecca recommends bronzer and concealer.
Shao Xiang Lu, Broda International, provided details on the science behind transfer-resistant formulas. He noted that the incorporation of thermoplastic elastomers in silicone MQ resin formulas has greatly improved the feel of transfer-resistant makeup. The improvement is the result of supramolecular interactions between inter-molecular chains.
Formulating Help
The final session of the Annual Scientific Meeting, moderated by Tom Polefka of Life Science Solutions, provided formulating insights. For example, Robert Y. Lochhead, University of Southern Mississippi, reported on the correlation of the physicochemical behavior of coacervates normalized with critical overlap concentration of a polymer. The USM team found that above the critical aggregation concentration, the surface tension increased with an increase sodium dodecyl sulfate (SDS) concentration. The increase was even more pronounced with an increase in polyelectrolyte molecular weight.
According to Lochhead, viscosity is clearly dependent on both the polymer and SDS concentration. Furthermore, there are indications of critical concentrations for each of these components and that in the entangled region, the modulus of the coacervate is that of a crosslinked gel, whereas in the dilute region, the coacervate is a viscous liquid.
Joachim Venzmer of Evonik explained how a microemulsion containing polyglyceryl-3 caprate, cocamidopropyl betaine and propylene glycol helps to evenly distribute a high molecular weight silicone quaternium-22 on hair. The material is easy to handle and simple processing makes the delivery form ideal for use in a variety of hair treatments, according to Venzmer.
Amway’s Yulia A. Park reviewed the test methods that her team used to determine the delivery efficiency in vivo between lotion, nonwoven wet cloth mask and a hydrogel mask to deliver fluorescein, a fluorescent compound. Amway researchers measured delivery using tape stripping, Visia-CR 1.1 with UV illumination and confocal laser scanning microscope in fluorescence mode.
As one might suspect, lotion had the lowest delivery efficiency of the three; while the masks had similar delivery depth and coverage when analyzed 30 minutes after product application. At the four-hour checkpoint, the hydrogel mask showed deeper and more uniform ingredient delivery.
The final speaker, Estelle Loing of Lucas Meyer Cosmetics, revealed how coated liposomes were developed using phospholipids and polysaccharides-fatty acid complex (stearoyl inulin). Caffeine or hexapeptide were entrapped in either coated or non-coated liposomes. After 24 hours, the bioavailability of caffeine was improved by 2.4-fold using liposomes and by 3.6-fold using coated liposomes. Similarly, the bioavailability of hexapeptide was improved by 2.5-fold using liposomes and by 3.1-fold using coated liposomes. Loing concluded that coating polysaccharides on liposomes improves stability and skin absorption and results in more efficient bioavailability.
According to Estée Lauder’s Akshay Talati, chairman of the SCC Committee on Scientific Affairs, the 2014 annual meeting attracted one of the largest audiences in years, who came to hear presentations on a wide range of cosmetic chemistry topics, attend a technology showcase featuring dozens of posters, mingle with colleagues from all over the US and the world, and close out the year on an upbeat note.
Upbeat, energetic and fascinating would be some of the superlatives to describe Greene’s lecture, “Breakthrough Thinking: Challenging What We Know.” It all starts, he explained, when someone has the hubris to challenge conventional thinking, whether it’s Sir Isaac Newton, Albert Einstein or a precocious elementary school student. Greene told the story of a second-grade girl in art class who, when the teacher asks, “What are you drawing?”
She replies: “God.”
“How can you draw God when no one knows what he looks like?” asks the teacher.
“That’s because I’m not finished, yet,” the little girl explains.
Breakthrough thinking requires standing by your convictions and seeing them through—despite all the naysayers, according to Greene. For example, he suggested that we all might be holograms; i.e., two-dimensional objects, since our environment is surrounded by a thin surface that bounds us at the edge of the observable universe. That means that all the 3D material objects in the world, people, plants, animals, buildings, would be a holographic projection of the information that exists on this giant sphere that surrounds the edge of the observable universe.
“So, we could be the holographic projection of all of that data. Put that in your pipe and smoke it,” he joked.
The holographic principle was developed from the study of black holes. There is evidence that when an object falls into a black hole it doesn’t disappear; instead, it is smeared on the surface of the black hole on something called “the event horizon.”
Researchers theorized that since space inside a black hole isn’t much different than outside a black hole, the same hologram effect may hold true.
Greene went on to suggest that there are parallel universes (the multiverse) where everything is duplicated. That theory developed when one considers that while space may be infinitely far, we can only see a bit of it. In any finite region of space, matter can only arrange itself in finite configurations. So, if space is infinite, there would have to be duplicates—there aren’t enough different arrangements to go around. He likened the arrangement to Swiss cheese where the holes represent duplicate universes and the cheese is an inflation field. Both continue to grow larger as the universe expands.
Which led Greene to his final thought: in the future, researchers won’t understand as much as we do today because they won’t be able to see as many objects in space as today’s astronomers do. And, as everyone knows, seeing is believing.
“Do you believe what you read or what you see?” he asked the audience.
And while he urged the audience to think differently, Greene issued one caveat:
“We’re all great fans of our own thinking, but we need a certain amount of humility,” he cautioned. “Even Einstein built his ideas on the works of others.”
Back to Chemistry
Working with others is often a hallmark of good research, which was on display throughout the SCC Annual Meeting. In the opening session devoted to innovations and emerging trends, Dominik Stuhlmann of Symrise explained how a new material, 3-3-5-trimethylcyclohexyl succinate dimethylamide (Bio1711) boosts proteasomal activity, which improves cell health and the appearance of skin. In vitro studies demonstrated that the compound boosted proteasomal activity by 150%.
“It has good anti-wrinkle activity that is perceived by the customer,” explained Stuhlmann. “Healthy skin cells create a beautiful skin.”
In vivo studies confirmed a significant decrease in surface roughness.
“Everybody gets old; nobody wants to look old,” noted Fred Züelli of Mibelle Biochemistry.
With that in mind, he detailed the benefits of an algae extract of Chlamydocapsa, which boosts the expression of collagen I and III in aged fibroblasts by 63% and 240%, respectively. The activity mimics caloric-restriction activity, which is known to retard the signs of aging and increase lifespan. Specifically, the material upregulates Klotho expression and stimulates AMPK activity.
Cutting calories may be one way to maintain a youthful appearance; reducing stress is another. Exsymol’s Jean-François Nicolay noted that chronic emotional stress can cause hair loss, worsen inflammatory disease and disturb circadian rhythms; all of which leads to premature aging.
“Emotional stress affects the appetite of 80% of people,” he explained. “Half eat more and half eat less.”
Exsymol researchers have developed a material (pGT) that reduces the impact that glucocorticoids, the byproduct of stress, has on white adipose tissue (WAT). Incorporated into formulation at 0.03%, the material opposes cortisol’s affect on WAT innervation that, if left untreated, plays a significant role in fat accumulation.
Thinning hair among men and women can be genetic or stress-related. Induchem’s Fabrice Lefévre detailed the benefits of a new material (DEGZ), which is composed of epigallocatechin gallate glucoside and dihydroquercetin glucoside. In vivo studies confirmed its efficacy: 85% of volunteers showed positive results with an increase of 9% of hair in the anagen phase and a decrease of 17% of hair in the telogen phase. As a result, density increased, on average, of 10,000 hairs, with a high of 28,200 hairs. In fact, the material was twice as effective, in some cases, as Minoxidil, according to Lefévre.
You Can’t Do That!
There were two afternoon concurrent sessions. One, moderated by Dennis Laba of Presperse, was devoted to practical formulations. The second, moderated by Ken Marenus of Estée Lauder, was devoted to the burgeoning amount of laws that handcuff formulators around the world.
In his opening remarks, Kevin Gallagher of Croda, quoted Rob Edmunds, the CEO of Kolmar, who said, “We’re now at the point where the flow of paperwork is more important than the flow of product.”
Listening to presenters made Edmunds’ quote quite evident. Francine Lamoriello of the Personal Care Product Council provided insight on several hotspots including China, Brazil and India. She predicted that China’s proposed labeling regulations would ultimately lead to the proliferation of gray market products. PCPC has made formal comments to the Chinese Food and Drug Administration and the US Government has been working with the Chinese to kill the proposal.
In a bizarre move, Brazilian regulators want to INCI names translated into Portuguese! Obviously, PCPC opposes the action.
“We must save the INCI nomenclature,” said Lamoriello, who noted that PCPC is working with the Brazilian Cosmetic Association (ABIPHEC) to fight the proposal.
Meanwhile, in India, a total animal testing ban is in place, and a new regulation even bans imported products tested on animals.
Most recently, and with no warning, a “vegetarian” label was proposed that requires labels to sport a color dot indicating animal- or vegetable-sourced ingredients. However, a stay was granted after a petition from India’s cosmetic association.
“Industry has a key role to promoting a convergence of regulations,” insisted Lamoriello. “We must engage with regulators around the world.”
Beware the Tsunami
Gallagher noted that chemophobia is alive and well and driven by media that’s hungry for bad news. With regulations on the local, state, national and international stage, coupled with pressures from retailers, non-government organizations, third-party certifiers and the public, there’s been a major impact on innovation as formulators have a limited palette of ingredients from which to choose. What’s worse, it’s going to get worse. Gallagher issued a dire warning to industry regarding the Globally Harmonized System (GHS) for Tariff Regulation.
“GHS is the greatest anti-cosmetic ingredient marketing campaign in the history of mankind. They are horrific,” he charged. “Be warned and be ready, a Tsunami is coming. They (GHS regulations) are written like what would happen if you took your head and stuck it in a drum (of chemicals).”
Using the folk tale “Stone Soup” as an analogy, Gallagher urged suppliers, marketers, associations, third-party certifiers, trade press and even NGOs to work together to try to remedy the situation.
“We can do a lot with a little, as long as we cooperate,” he insisted. “My advice is to be creative; make stone soup. Protect the supply chain. That’s why TSCA (Toxic Substances Control Act) is important. Whatever affects the supply chain affects all of us.”
Few industries have been more impacted by limits placed on its palette of ingredients than the fragrance industry. Prior to the 1990s, the industry happily self-regulated itself, but in the 1990s, the European Union introduced a list of suspected allergens that included 84 ingredients, recalled Steve Herman of Diffusion LLC. Just because a material is on the list doesn’t preclude perfumers from using it, but it would have to be listed on product labels. Rather than start disclosing ingredients, fragrance companies began eliminating widely used materials such as oak moss and tree moss. Now, lyral, a key component of Chanel No. 5 is under fire, according to Herman. He reviewed a typical fragrance formula to demonstrate the different types of components in a fragrance and the issues that can arise from a limited palette of ingredients.
But a shrinking list of fragrance materials isn’t the only headache for perfumers. The California Air Resources Board (CARB), for example, monitors volatile organic compound emission of some fragrance products. Luckily, explained Herman, the Research Institute for Fragrance Materials (RIFM) provides real assistance to fragrance companies through a variety of services, including a vapor pressure database.
“We are blessed to have RIFM,” Herman told the audience. “It is an independent organization that is funded by industry and engages in a dialogue (with regulators).”
Friday’s Program
Amway’s Greg Hillebrand moderated the morning session that was to be devoted to color cosmetics, but when a speaker had to cancel at the last minute, Rebecca James Gadberry stepped in to deliver an insightful talk on genomics, epigenomics and proteomics.
“With aging, everything that is good goes down and everything that is bad goes up,” Gadberry explained matter-of-factly. But by understanding the important role that genomics, epigenomics and proteomics play in maintaining cellular health, formulators can improve cellular health. She noted that 99% of disease is tied to epigenetics and anytime gene regulation occurs it is due to an epigenetic mechanism.
At the same time, proteins play a critical role in human health. Gadberry noted that humans are made up of 70% water and 20% protein, while the remaining 10% is composed of lipids and other materials. There are an estimated 230,000 to 2.5 million proteins in the body, and while collagen and elastin are well known, “think about how many we have not found yet,” observed Gadberry. “Proteomics is critical.”
And although the Food and Drug Administration won’t allow companies to make gene expression claims, Gadberry insisted, “when we target genes, we get real results!”
Rick DiCecca, Artistry’s global makeup artist, returned the session’s focus to color cosmetics by giving a makeup demonstration using SCC President Dawn Burke-Colvin.
“Before you apply makeup, exfoliate and hydrate skin so that it floats,” he advised.
DiCecca also gave tips on how to apply product: work from the middle of the ear toward the nose, for example and he suggested that women should choose the same color cosmetic family as the clothes that look best on them—although he predicted that blue will be on-trend for Spring 2015. As for the guys, DiCecca recommends bronzer and concealer.
Shao Xiang Lu, Broda International, provided details on the science behind transfer-resistant formulas. He noted that the incorporation of thermoplastic elastomers in silicone MQ resin formulas has greatly improved the feel of transfer-resistant makeup. The improvement is the result of supramolecular interactions between inter-molecular chains.
Formulating Help
The final session of the Annual Scientific Meeting, moderated by Tom Polefka of Life Science Solutions, provided formulating insights. For example, Robert Y. Lochhead, University of Southern Mississippi, reported on the correlation of the physicochemical behavior of coacervates normalized with critical overlap concentration of a polymer. The USM team found that above the critical aggregation concentration, the surface tension increased with an increase sodium dodecyl sulfate (SDS) concentration. The increase was even more pronounced with an increase in polyelectrolyte molecular weight.
According to Lochhead, viscosity is clearly dependent on both the polymer and SDS concentration. Furthermore, there are indications of critical concentrations for each of these components and that in the entangled region, the modulus of the coacervate is that of a crosslinked gel, whereas in the dilute region, the coacervate is a viscous liquid.
Joachim Venzmer of Evonik explained how a microemulsion containing polyglyceryl-3 caprate, cocamidopropyl betaine and propylene glycol helps to evenly distribute a high molecular weight silicone quaternium-22 on hair. The material is easy to handle and simple processing makes the delivery form ideal for use in a variety of hair treatments, according to Venzmer.
Amway’s Yulia A. Park reviewed the test methods that her team used to determine the delivery efficiency in vivo between lotion, nonwoven wet cloth mask and a hydrogel mask to deliver fluorescein, a fluorescent compound. Amway researchers measured delivery using tape stripping, Visia-CR 1.1 with UV illumination and confocal laser scanning microscope in fluorescence mode.
As one might suspect, lotion had the lowest delivery efficiency of the three; while the masks had similar delivery depth and coverage when analyzed 30 minutes after product application. At the four-hour checkpoint, the hydrogel mask showed deeper and more uniform ingredient delivery.
The final speaker, Estelle Loing of Lucas Meyer Cosmetics, revealed how coated liposomes were developed using phospholipids and polysaccharides-fatty acid complex (stearoyl inulin). Caffeine or hexapeptide were entrapped in either coated or non-coated liposomes. After 24 hours, the bioavailability of caffeine was improved by 2.4-fold using liposomes and by 3.6-fold using coated liposomes. Similarly, the bioavailability of hexapeptide was improved by 2.5-fold using liposomes and by 3.1-fold using coated liposomes. Loing concluded that coating polysaccharides on liposomes improves stability and skin absorption and results in more efficient bioavailability.
• J. Alan Swift, described by the Society of Cosmetic Chemists as a “pioneer of hair science,” received the Mason G. deNavarre Medal Award during the SCC Annual Meeting Award Luncheon. The long-time Unilever researcher has authored more than 90 papers and received numerous awards from the SCC including the SCC Literature Award and the Joseph. P. Ciaudelli Award. Swift is credited with beginning work on scanning electron microscopy and the first atomic force microscopy of hair. Other award winners:
The SCC president for 2015 is Tony O’Lenick. |