The ability to create stable emulsions is a cornerstone of a cosmetic chemist’s training. There are plenty of emulsifiers to choose from on the market, and one of the more interesting ones is Lipoid Kosmetik’s Herbamilk.

The Newark, NJ-based company was formed in 2007 when the Lipoid Group purchased Cosmetochem AG, a Swiss company that produces high quality botanical extracts and actives.

One of its products is a line called Herbamilk, which is a range of natural plant emulsions that contain stable plant oils and extracts with a plant-derived emulsifier system.

These natural cosmetic milk concentrates allow both water- and fat-soluble ingredients to be incorporated together.  They are self-preserving, slightly opaque (translucent), yellowish brown, slightly viscous liquids which are stable for a minimum of 12 months if refrigerated (2-8°C). The plant oils and herbal ingredients form an oil-in-water emulsion that is stabilized by lecithin. The plant oils are in the inner portion of the matrix. Dispersing  Herbaspheres in water gives the milky appearance of Herbamilk.

Three different versions are offered:

1. Almond Oil Herbaspheres  (INCI name: Glycerin, water, Prunus amygdalus dulcis (sweet almond) oil, hydrogenated lecithin, citric acid).  The fruit of the almond tree has an outer hull and a hard shell with a seed, the almond.  Sweet almond oil is cold pressed from it and is said to have emollient, moisturizing, and anti-irritant properties.
2. Orchid/Almond Oil Herbaspheres (INCI name: Same name as above with vanilla planifolia fruit extract added just before the citric acid.)  The vanilla is a member of the climbing orchids family that gets moisture and nutrients from air and rain while anchored to another plant.  The pods have no flavor or odor until they are cured.
3. Sheabutter/Almond Oil Herba-spheres (INCI: Same as  the first product, with Butyrospermum parkii (shea) butter added before the hydrogenated lecithin).  The shea tree is found in Africa and grows up to 14 meters high. The yellow fruits contain one or more oil rich seeds from which shea butter is extracted.

It is claimed that Herbaspheres enhance skin feel with moisturizing, refattening and emollient properties and can be used in hair products (shampoos or conditioners), soap and bath products, and skin care products (body and face care or eye cleansers).
In formulations, the preferred pH range is 5-7, and the recommended use level is 1-10%. 

Following is a suggested body lotion with Orchid/Almond Oil Herbaspheres.
   
Body Lotion

Ingredients:	%Wt.
Phase A
Water	63.65
Citric acid (50%)	0.35
Hydrogenated lecithin	1.00
Xanthan gum	0.60
Phase B
Sodium stearoyl glutamate	1.30
Cetearyl alcohol	2.50
Caprylyl caprylate/caprate	8.00
Coco-caprylate	5.00
Vitis Vinifera (Grape) seed oil	5.00
Butyrospermum Parkii (shea) butter	8.00
Phase C
Fragrance	0.60
Orchid/Almond Oil Herbaspheres	4.00

The procedure is not provided, but I assume phase A and B are heated separately to the same temperature and B with the dissolved solid cetearyl alcohol is added to phase A.  Phase C would be added at 50°C or below.
The manufacturer affirms the compatibility and non-toxicity of the Herbaspheres and states that they  are compliant with REACH, Ecocert and COSMOS standards.

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Harvey M. Fishman
Consultant
Email: hrfishman34@hotmail.com

Harvey Fishman has a consulting firm in Wanaque, NJ, specializing in cosmetic formulations and new product ideas, offering tested finished products. He has more than 30 years of experience and has been director of research at Bonat, Nestlé LeMur and Turner Hall. He welcomes descriptive literature from suppliers and bench chemists and others in the field.