Melissa Meisel , Associate Editor12.02.15
Consumers crave shampoos and conditioners that perform and do what they promise; ultimately, they want help putting an end to bad hair days once and for all! According to Donna Barson, senior associate, Kline, Parsippany, NJ, hair health is in, as volume has replaced flat hair as a “super trend” and consumers are looking for products that can add volume and texture, and provide outstanding performance and shine all day long.
“Many facial skin care trends are now being seen in the shampoo and conditioner product category including treatment products such as masks to help repair and strengthen hair, also products to add volume and texture without frizz,” she added.
Prominent trends in hair care right now are led by brands that bring unique product innovation to the market with quality, “good-for-you” components that deliver quality performance, noted Jaime Kontz, product development and marketing manager, Vogue International, OGX Brand, Clearwater, FL.
“Mass consumers are making an upgrade into the premium/salon and professional hair care offerings and that’s been the case for the past few years,” she observed. “This trend will continue as true product innovation continues to dominate the hair care category.”
The mass shampoo category rose 3.3% to $2.8 billion as reported by Information Resources Inc. (IRI) for total US multi-outlet (supermarkets, drugstores, mass-market retailers, military commissaries and select club and dollar retail chains) for the 52 weeks ended Oct. 4, 2015. Regular shampoo sales increased 1.9% to $2.2 billion while dandruff shampoo sales rose 2.9% to $534.1 million and shampoo and conditioner combo packs soared 39.6% to $115 million. Hair conditioners rose 3% to just over $2 billion.
According to Kontz, consumers are shopping with their smart phones and researching products, reviews and ingredients before they purchase. They are also looking for products that will “deliver on their promise, to help bring out the best in their hair, while using best possible ingredients to do so.”
Burgeoning Launches
January promises to be a big month for shampoo and conditioner launches. For example, OGX is rolling out a variety of repairing new formulations that will be sold at Walgreens, Walmart, Target, CVS, Ulta and other major retailers. OGX Fight Fallout + Niacin3 & Caffeine collection is said to prevent hair fallout due to breakage, ultimately creating an environment to help promote hair growth. It is formulated with alpha hydroxy acid, niacin, caffeine and natural DHT blockers. Other launches include the OGX Gravity-Defying & Hydration + O2 Collection—formulated with oxygen liposomes, a solvent that delivers oxygen into hair strands; as well as cloudberries, known to deliver vitamins A, C, E, B, calcium, magnesium and antioxidants—and OGX Strength & Body + Bamboo Fiber-Full Collection made with soy protein.
“The top trends in shampoos are SLS-free and conditioners that have restorative and reparative elements,” noted Danny Jelaca, master stylist, Danny Jelaca Salon, Miami Beach, FL. “Being that keratin and smoothing treatments are so popular today, this is one of the most important of all. Shoppers are looking for a product that cleanses while also moisturizing and giving a luxurious feel and smell to the hair.”
Pantene is amping up its hair care offerings this season with the new Pantene Expert shampoo and conditioner collections that contain “the most intense formulas for instant results,” according to the company. The products contain a unique gel network technology that, until now, has only been used in conditioners. Gel network is a conditioner suspended in a shampoo and features patented technology that provides next-level conditioning that penetrates the hair and delivers benefits you can see and feel during and after shampooing, according to the P&G-owned brand. The Pantene Expert Conditioners contain an innovative ingredient, the most advanced silicone used uniquely on Pantene that is specially charged to target and effectively bind to damaged hair too. Variations span from Age Defy to restore youthful vitality to Intense Colorcare to enhance color vibrancy.
The brand is also launching Pantene Pro-V 3 Minute Miracle Deep Conditioners that are said to work in just three minutes. The products contain a higher concentration of conditioning actives and can be found in the following collections—Daily Moisture Renewal, Repair & Protect, Sheer Volume and Smooth & Sleek.
Meanwhile, at L’Oréal, nourishing is also on the agenda with rollouts from L’Oréal Paris and Dessange Paris. The new L’Oréal Paris Advanced Haircare Extraordinary Oil Nourish Collection features a shampoo, conditioner and Transforming Oil-in-Cream while L’Oréal Paris Advanced Haircare Extraordinary Oil Nourish Curl Collection contains a shampoo, conditioner and Re-Nutrition Mask. The line launches at drug stores in January 2016.
Out at Target stores now is Dessange Paris Purifying Clay Balancing Pre-Shampoo Mask. Billed as its first clay-in-mask pre-shampoo regulating treatment, the formulation specifically targets an oily scalp with a breakthrough skin purifying technology. The 30% mineral green clay concentration works to absorb excess sebum and regulate oil production over time while the professional application brush allows for even, targeted coverage. The virtues of clay have been used for centuries in cosmetic and therapeutic remedies to absorb sebum, eliminate toxins and serve as an antiseptic.
The collection also features a Purifying Clay Balancing Shampoo, the second step to the Purifying Clay system. The pro-vitamin B5 enhanced shampoo helps to minimize oily roots and produce soft, perfectly balanced hair. Hair and scalp will become rebalanced and with the added benefit of a light cherry, violet and vanilla scent. After using the pre-shampoo mask, rinse hair with the regulating shampoo to help balance hair.
Also big right now at Target stores is Andre Walker (for a related podcast, visit Happi.com). A legendary hair expert, seven-time Emmy Award winning hairstylist, author, former salon owner, product developer and Oprah Winfrey’s personal hairstylist for more than 25 years, Walker presents his newly enhanced Gold System collection from Andre Walker Hair. Featuring an oil-rich formula, the star ingredient in all Gold System products is mongongo oil found in the southern regions of Africa. High in polyunsaturated fatty acids, mongongo nut oil adds gloss to hair and the moisturizing properties help to make hair more manageable through frequent use. Products currently featured in the Gold System include Ultimate Moisture Sulfate-Free Shampoo and Ultimate Moisture TKO Conditioner.
Broo, a natural beer-based shampoo and conditioner brand, has recently expanded into Walmart and online at Target where shoppers are seeking alternative forms of hair care at affordable price points.
“With Millennials and Generation Y, there’s a strong ‘anti-corporate’ vibe,” said Sarah Duran, co-founder of the Asheville, NC-based brand. “They’re looking for unique, authentic experiences and products. This is carrying over into their beauty and personal care products.”
Small, boutique brands seem to be gaining fans, according to Duran.
“We’ve always compared our craft beer shampoo journey to the craft beer movement, which was a revolution against big corporate beer,” she noted. “The craft brewers have always cared more about using the finest, premium ingredients, instead of focusing on profits. It’s the same for us.”
Salon Inspired
Technology today has found an answer to just about everything, so why should women continue to struggle with finding the perfect solution for creating frizz- and damage-free blowouts?
Pureology’s new Smooth Perfection addresses the universal concern of frizz with camellia oil in the shampoo and conditioner as well as its exclusive Thermal Anti-Fade Complex with heat-protecting xylose sugar and ultra-rich vitamin E oil.
“Blowouts have become a weekly necessity for so many women, but they can come at a cost to both the wallet and the integrity of color-treated hair if proper care isn’t taken,” explained Ruth Roche, Pureology artistic ambassador, New York. “Whether you’re striving for bombshell volume with waves, sleek locks, or somewhere in the middle, Smooth Perfection provides targeted hair care and customizable styling options to achieve the perfect blowout for every hair type. The fact that it simultaneously addresses top hair concerns like heat damage, frizz and color-fade makes it a beauty must-have!”
Clients are seeking healthy alternatives such as botanical shampoos and masks, agreed Anthony Cristiano, artistic director, Phyto, Chicago.
“The majority of clients we see today have color treated hair,” he told Happi. “Phyto has just launched an amazing new addition to its hair care line called Phytokeratine Extreme Shampoo and Mask. The two combined is great for ultra-dry and damaged brittle hair.”
The formula contains botanical keratin, sapote butter, baobab oil and peony extract. It will give the color treated hair intense nutrition and restores and rebuilds the inner core, which in turn will assist the hair to regain its suppleness, according to Cristiano.
Overall, prestige, high-end hair care is increasing in the marketplace. According to Mary Pergoda, national promotional and training director, J.F. Lazartigue, New York, upscale hair care products are now found in beauty boutiques not just salons.
“With at-home services to help maintain the most beautiful hair in the world, your hair is your best accessory,” she told Happi.
J.F. Lazartigue Color Reflecting Hair Conditioners can add shine to enhance fall/winter hair color trends that range from deep chocolate to silver white. According to Pergoda, it will add a highlight to your own personal style that will shampoo out after four washes with 11 colors to mix and match.
Joico is specifically reaching out to consumers with tresses of copper and brunette with its new Color Infuse Shampoo and Conditioner to add shine and depth to these hues. According to the company, Color Infuse Brown is formulated specifically to make sure brunettes stay rich; while Color Infuse Copper is just right for those rich auburn and ginger beauties!
Meanwhile, a Multi-Spectrum Defense Complex helps protect color against fading while a Bio-Advanced Peptide Complex delivers root-to-tip repair and protection, according to the company.
“It’s very easy for brunettes to go dull and my brunette clients are always complaining about this,” said Joico celebrity colorist and spokesperson Denis de Souza of the Andy Lecompte Salon in West Hollywood, CA. “They just don’t have anything to make them shiny and keep their color rich! They fade on tone, which means they can go warm or cool. But Color Infuse Brown puts the richness back in, actually filling in the cuticle. As for Color Infuse Copper—now this is for that ginger girl that can take you aback seeing her hair color when it’s perfect. But she can fade fast, so this is perfect to keep her warm, golden-copper ginger that really makes her look natural—even when she’s not!”
Of course, most companies strive to keep consumers hair color bright and true. Farouk Systems is having success with its The Resonance Collection, which imparts a high gloss effect on locks (as seen on the cover of this edition of Happi). The brand’s CHI (Cationic Hydration Interlink) Infra Shampoo and Infra Treatment are both infused with ionic and cationic hydration interlink technology to keep tresses shiny even through heat styling. Farouk Systems also recently rolled out its highly anticipated CHI Tea Tree Oil Line, a hair care collection enriched with both tea tree oil and peppermint oil for scalp rejuvenation.
Wash and Go
The “co-wash” trend, which has been around for several years, is gaining momentum, noted Roche of Pureology.
“More and more consumers are looking for products that are gentler on their hair and skin, and—especially important for Pureology users—gentler on their color,” she said.
Pureology’s answer to this was the recent launch of three Cleansing Conditioners.
Macadamia Professional recently expanded its Ultra Rich Moisture Collection with the introduction of a revolutionary product engineered for those with very coarse to coiled hair textures, the new Ultra Rich Moisture Cleansing Conditioner. This gentle, non-stripping, cleanser-conditioner combination provides foamless cleansing and deep conditioning in one step, while replenishing moisture in the hair cuticle, according to the company. Bamboo extract strengthens hair and improves tensile flexibility, while sweet almond oil prevents breakage and nourishes the hair and scalp. Hydrolyzed quinoa provides hair with nutrients and locks in moisture and mongongo oil is rich in linoleic acid that provides hydration. Rice amino acids help seal the hair cuticle to lock out environmental moisture that causes frizz.
This innovative addition will accompany the Ultra Rich Moisture Shampoo & Conditioner, Ultra Rich Moisture Oil Treatment and Ultra Rich Moisture Masque, which launched earlier in 2015. All contain Macadamia Professional’s exclusive Pro Oil Complex, a therapeutic blend of macadamia and argan oils rich in omega 7, 5, 3 and 9 fatty acids, which are said to deeply, yet weightlessly, nourish and renew hair’s natural texture. Products are sold at salons, online and at Ulta.
Consumers can cleanse without getting into a lather with the new Oribe Cleansing Crème for Moisture & Control. This non-foaming conditioning formula is rich in purifying oils, citrus fruit extracts and a refreshing water-mint essence to gently cleanse strands and energize the scalp while protecting color, calming frizz and restoring moisture. It is said to gently remove dirt, oil and buildup without the use of surfactants or harsh sulfates, leaving the scalp balanced and soothed, and hair hydrated and smooth without silicones. For all hair types, especially dry, curly, coarse, textured and color-treated, Cleansing Crème is dermatologist-tested and vegan, safe for color and keratin treated hair, and is paraben-, sulfate-, sodium chloride-, cruelty- and gluten-free. The Oribe Signature Complex defends hair from oxidative stress and photo-aging. Watermelon, lychee and edelweiss flower extracts work together in this blend. The SKU is sold at Barneys, Bergdorf Goodman, Neiman Marcus and select salons and retailers nationwide.
And let’s not forget the classic keratin. L’anza’s Keratin Healing Oil Cleansing Cream is billed as a lather free, light cleansing cream that refreshes hair while also fortifying, detangling, rehydrating and reducing drying time! It combines a revitalizing blend of natural and exotic cleansing ingredients such as shikakai fruit and calamansi fruit extracts. A Phyto IV Complex and murumuru butter rehydrate and add shine. Next generation keratin protein fortifies hair from within to restore strength. It is formulated for those who want to skip a day (or two) from traditional shampooing and refresh hair without removing natural oils, according to the company.
Estelle Baumhauer, color director, eSalon, Culver City, CA, noted that spray shampoos are also big right now to maintain style.
“The trend of dry shampoo is definitely not dying, but continues to grow,” she said. “With benefits like absorbing oil and boosting volume, this is a great solution for extending that perfect blow dry. It can also be used as a styling aid to add texture and grit to an updo or braid.”
One the bigger launches this season in dry shampoo is from Carol’s Daughter, New York. Touted as a dry shampoo that conditions as it cleanses, the new Monoi (Repairing System) Conditioning Dry Shampoo is said to absorb oily buildup for on-the-go styling. Colors include Dark Tone or Light Tone for a perfect match. Natural starch helps hair maintain its natural luster and shine, while willow bark extract extends your style for a look that lasts. Products are sold at Ulta and online.
According to Carol’s Daughter founder Lisa Price, “The biggest trend we have seen throughout the past five years is a shift to shampoo and conditioners being more about care and less about perfunctory item in your regimen. I am proud to say that is something on which Carol’s Daughter has focused on since I created my first shampoo nearly 20 years ago. The shampoo process is the first step towards a great style—not just that thing you ‘have to do’ to have clean hair.”
Promising Prospects
As more of the premium/salon inspired products meet and or exceed the consumer’s everyday needs, this key subsegment should continue to grow in the hair care category. According to Kontz of Vogue International, innovation will continue to be a key driver as well as products that cater to the changing demographics of the general consumer and their changing hair care needs.
Baumhauer of eSalon noted that the seasons play a huge part in how clients shop for products. She told Happi, “Just like how we change our wardrobe in winter, clients need to adjust their hair routine as well.”
Future trends include continued emphasis on problem-solving and anti-aging SKUs, observed Barson of Kline, with more scalp care and hair growth simulating products coming to the mass market.
Something big the industry will also see is a continued trend toward a “complete wellness” approach to beauty, said Roche of Pureology. She explained, “Styles are leaning towards a much more natural, effortless look so the products that make hair look naturally healthy with a lot of movement and shine will be the 2016 winners. Also, while multi-taskers continue to grow, there is another trend towards more complex beauty routines, inspired by Korean skin care regimens. It will be interesting to see how this is applied to hair care in the future.”
Roche added, “Prestige, high-end hair care has weathered the economic storms and come out on top, largely because it’s an affordable luxury. When times are tough, you don’t treat yourself to a new car, you treat yourself to a $30 bottle of shampoo!”
Looking for a new ingredient for your hair care formula?
“Many facial skin care trends are now being seen in the shampoo and conditioner product category including treatment products such as masks to help repair and strengthen hair, also products to add volume and texture without frizz,” she added.
Prominent trends in hair care right now are led by brands that bring unique product innovation to the market with quality, “good-for-you” components that deliver quality performance, noted Jaime Kontz, product development and marketing manager, Vogue International, OGX Brand, Clearwater, FL.
“Mass consumers are making an upgrade into the premium/salon and professional hair care offerings and that’s been the case for the past few years,” she observed. “This trend will continue as true product innovation continues to dominate the hair care category.”
The mass shampoo category rose 3.3% to $2.8 billion as reported by Information Resources Inc. (IRI) for total US multi-outlet (supermarkets, drugstores, mass-market retailers, military commissaries and select club and dollar retail chains) for the 52 weeks ended Oct. 4, 2015. Regular shampoo sales increased 1.9% to $2.2 billion while dandruff shampoo sales rose 2.9% to $534.1 million and shampoo and conditioner combo packs soared 39.6% to $115 million. Hair conditioners rose 3% to just over $2 billion.
According to Kontz, consumers are shopping with their smart phones and researching products, reviews and ingredients before they purchase. They are also looking for products that will “deliver on their promise, to help bring out the best in their hair, while using best possible ingredients to do so.”
Burgeoning Launches
January promises to be a big month for shampoo and conditioner launches. For example, OGX is rolling out a variety of repairing new formulations that will be sold at Walgreens, Walmart, Target, CVS, Ulta and other major retailers. OGX Fight Fallout + Niacin3 & Caffeine collection is said to prevent hair fallout due to breakage, ultimately creating an environment to help promote hair growth. It is formulated with alpha hydroxy acid, niacin, caffeine and natural DHT blockers. Other launches include the OGX Gravity-Defying & Hydration + O2 Collection—formulated with oxygen liposomes, a solvent that delivers oxygen into hair strands; as well as cloudberries, known to deliver vitamins A, C, E, B, calcium, magnesium and antioxidants—and OGX Strength & Body + Bamboo Fiber-Full Collection made with soy protein.
“The top trends in shampoos are SLS-free and conditioners that have restorative and reparative elements,” noted Danny Jelaca, master stylist, Danny Jelaca Salon, Miami Beach, FL. “Being that keratin and smoothing treatments are so popular today, this is one of the most important of all. Shoppers are looking for a product that cleanses while also moisturizing and giving a luxurious feel and smell to the hair.”
Pantene is amping up its hair care offerings this season with the new Pantene Expert shampoo and conditioner collections that contain “the most intense formulas for instant results,” according to the company. The products contain a unique gel network technology that, until now, has only been used in conditioners. Gel network is a conditioner suspended in a shampoo and features patented technology that provides next-level conditioning that penetrates the hair and delivers benefits you can see and feel during and after shampooing, according to the P&G-owned brand. The Pantene Expert Conditioners contain an innovative ingredient, the most advanced silicone used uniquely on Pantene that is specially charged to target and effectively bind to damaged hair too. Variations span from Age Defy to restore youthful vitality to Intense Colorcare to enhance color vibrancy.
The brand is also launching Pantene Pro-V 3 Minute Miracle Deep Conditioners that are said to work in just three minutes. The products contain a higher concentration of conditioning actives and can be found in the following collections—Daily Moisture Renewal, Repair & Protect, Sheer Volume and Smooth & Sleek.
Meanwhile, at L’Oréal, nourishing is also on the agenda with rollouts from L’Oréal Paris and Dessange Paris. The new L’Oréal Paris Advanced Haircare Extraordinary Oil Nourish Collection features a shampoo, conditioner and Transforming Oil-in-Cream while L’Oréal Paris Advanced Haircare Extraordinary Oil Nourish Curl Collection contains a shampoo, conditioner and Re-Nutrition Mask. The line launches at drug stores in January 2016.
Out at Target stores now is Dessange Paris Purifying Clay Balancing Pre-Shampoo Mask. Billed as its first clay-in-mask pre-shampoo regulating treatment, the formulation specifically targets an oily scalp with a breakthrough skin purifying technology. The 30% mineral green clay concentration works to absorb excess sebum and regulate oil production over time while the professional application brush allows for even, targeted coverage. The virtues of clay have been used for centuries in cosmetic and therapeutic remedies to absorb sebum, eliminate toxins and serve as an antiseptic.
The collection also features a Purifying Clay Balancing Shampoo, the second step to the Purifying Clay system. The pro-vitamin B5 enhanced shampoo helps to minimize oily roots and produce soft, perfectly balanced hair. Hair and scalp will become rebalanced and with the added benefit of a light cherry, violet and vanilla scent. After using the pre-shampoo mask, rinse hair with the regulating shampoo to help balance hair.
Also big right now at Target stores is Andre Walker (for a related podcast, visit Happi.com). A legendary hair expert, seven-time Emmy Award winning hairstylist, author, former salon owner, product developer and Oprah Winfrey’s personal hairstylist for more than 25 years, Walker presents his newly enhanced Gold System collection from Andre Walker Hair. Featuring an oil-rich formula, the star ingredient in all Gold System products is mongongo oil found in the southern regions of Africa. High in polyunsaturated fatty acids, mongongo nut oil adds gloss to hair and the moisturizing properties help to make hair more manageable through frequent use. Products currently featured in the Gold System include Ultimate Moisture Sulfate-Free Shampoo and Ultimate Moisture TKO Conditioner.
Broo, a natural beer-based shampoo and conditioner brand, has recently expanded into Walmart and online at Target where shoppers are seeking alternative forms of hair care at affordable price points.
“With Millennials and Generation Y, there’s a strong ‘anti-corporate’ vibe,” said Sarah Duran, co-founder of the Asheville, NC-based brand. “They’re looking for unique, authentic experiences and products. This is carrying over into their beauty and personal care products.”
Small, boutique brands seem to be gaining fans, according to Duran.
“We’ve always compared our craft beer shampoo journey to the craft beer movement, which was a revolution against big corporate beer,” she noted. “The craft brewers have always cared more about using the finest, premium ingredients, instead of focusing on profits. It’s the same for us.”
Salon Inspired
Technology today has found an answer to just about everything, so why should women continue to struggle with finding the perfect solution for creating frizz- and damage-free blowouts?
Pureology’s new Smooth Perfection addresses the universal concern of frizz with camellia oil in the shampoo and conditioner as well as its exclusive Thermal Anti-Fade Complex with heat-protecting xylose sugar and ultra-rich vitamin E oil.
“Blowouts have become a weekly necessity for so many women, but they can come at a cost to both the wallet and the integrity of color-treated hair if proper care isn’t taken,” explained Ruth Roche, Pureology artistic ambassador, New York. “Whether you’re striving for bombshell volume with waves, sleek locks, or somewhere in the middle, Smooth Perfection provides targeted hair care and customizable styling options to achieve the perfect blowout for every hair type. The fact that it simultaneously addresses top hair concerns like heat damage, frizz and color-fade makes it a beauty must-have!”
Clients are seeking healthy alternatives such as botanical shampoos and masks, agreed Anthony Cristiano, artistic director, Phyto, Chicago.
“The majority of clients we see today have color treated hair,” he told Happi. “Phyto has just launched an amazing new addition to its hair care line called Phytokeratine Extreme Shampoo and Mask. The two combined is great for ultra-dry and damaged brittle hair.”
The formula contains botanical keratin, sapote butter, baobab oil and peony extract. It will give the color treated hair intense nutrition and restores and rebuilds the inner core, which in turn will assist the hair to regain its suppleness, according to Cristiano.
Overall, prestige, high-end hair care is increasing in the marketplace. According to Mary Pergoda, national promotional and training director, J.F. Lazartigue, New York, upscale hair care products are now found in beauty boutiques not just salons.
“With at-home services to help maintain the most beautiful hair in the world, your hair is your best accessory,” she told Happi.
J.F. Lazartigue Color Reflecting Hair Conditioners can add shine to enhance fall/winter hair color trends that range from deep chocolate to silver white. According to Pergoda, it will add a highlight to your own personal style that will shampoo out after four washes with 11 colors to mix and match.
Joico is specifically reaching out to consumers with tresses of copper and brunette with its new Color Infuse Shampoo and Conditioner to add shine and depth to these hues. According to the company, Color Infuse Brown is formulated specifically to make sure brunettes stay rich; while Color Infuse Copper is just right for those rich auburn and ginger beauties!
Meanwhile, a Multi-Spectrum Defense Complex helps protect color against fading while a Bio-Advanced Peptide Complex delivers root-to-tip repair and protection, according to the company.
“It’s very easy for brunettes to go dull and my brunette clients are always complaining about this,” said Joico celebrity colorist and spokesperson Denis de Souza of the Andy Lecompte Salon in West Hollywood, CA. “They just don’t have anything to make them shiny and keep their color rich! They fade on tone, which means they can go warm or cool. But Color Infuse Brown puts the richness back in, actually filling in the cuticle. As for Color Infuse Copper—now this is for that ginger girl that can take you aback seeing her hair color when it’s perfect. But she can fade fast, so this is perfect to keep her warm, golden-copper ginger that really makes her look natural—even when she’s not!”
Of course, most companies strive to keep consumers hair color bright and true. Farouk Systems is having success with its The Resonance Collection, which imparts a high gloss effect on locks (as seen on the cover of this edition of Happi). The brand’s CHI (Cationic Hydration Interlink) Infra Shampoo and Infra Treatment are both infused with ionic and cationic hydration interlink technology to keep tresses shiny even through heat styling. Farouk Systems also recently rolled out its highly anticipated CHI Tea Tree Oil Line, a hair care collection enriched with both tea tree oil and peppermint oil for scalp rejuvenation.
Wash and Go
The “co-wash” trend, which has been around for several years, is gaining momentum, noted Roche of Pureology.
“More and more consumers are looking for products that are gentler on their hair and skin, and—especially important for Pureology users—gentler on their color,” she said.
Pureology’s answer to this was the recent launch of three Cleansing Conditioners.
Macadamia Professional recently expanded its Ultra Rich Moisture Collection with the introduction of a revolutionary product engineered for those with very coarse to coiled hair textures, the new Ultra Rich Moisture Cleansing Conditioner. This gentle, non-stripping, cleanser-conditioner combination provides foamless cleansing and deep conditioning in one step, while replenishing moisture in the hair cuticle, according to the company. Bamboo extract strengthens hair and improves tensile flexibility, while sweet almond oil prevents breakage and nourishes the hair and scalp. Hydrolyzed quinoa provides hair with nutrients and locks in moisture and mongongo oil is rich in linoleic acid that provides hydration. Rice amino acids help seal the hair cuticle to lock out environmental moisture that causes frizz.
This innovative addition will accompany the Ultra Rich Moisture Shampoo & Conditioner, Ultra Rich Moisture Oil Treatment and Ultra Rich Moisture Masque, which launched earlier in 2015. All contain Macadamia Professional’s exclusive Pro Oil Complex, a therapeutic blend of macadamia and argan oils rich in omega 7, 5, 3 and 9 fatty acids, which are said to deeply, yet weightlessly, nourish and renew hair’s natural texture. Products are sold at salons, online and at Ulta.
Consumers can cleanse without getting into a lather with the new Oribe Cleansing Crème for Moisture & Control. This non-foaming conditioning formula is rich in purifying oils, citrus fruit extracts and a refreshing water-mint essence to gently cleanse strands and energize the scalp while protecting color, calming frizz and restoring moisture. It is said to gently remove dirt, oil and buildup without the use of surfactants or harsh sulfates, leaving the scalp balanced and soothed, and hair hydrated and smooth without silicones. For all hair types, especially dry, curly, coarse, textured and color-treated, Cleansing Crème is dermatologist-tested and vegan, safe for color and keratin treated hair, and is paraben-, sulfate-, sodium chloride-, cruelty- and gluten-free. The Oribe Signature Complex defends hair from oxidative stress and photo-aging. Watermelon, lychee and edelweiss flower extracts work together in this blend. The SKU is sold at Barneys, Bergdorf Goodman, Neiman Marcus and select salons and retailers nationwide.
And let’s not forget the classic keratin. L’anza’s Keratin Healing Oil Cleansing Cream is billed as a lather free, light cleansing cream that refreshes hair while also fortifying, detangling, rehydrating and reducing drying time! It combines a revitalizing blend of natural and exotic cleansing ingredients such as shikakai fruit and calamansi fruit extracts. A Phyto IV Complex and murumuru butter rehydrate and add shine. Next generation keratin protein fortifies hair from within to restore strength. It is formulated for those who want to skip a day (or two) from traditional shampooing and refresh hair without removing natural oils, according to the company.
Estelle Baumhauer, color director, eSalon, Culver City, CA, noted that spray shampoos are also big right now to maintain style.
“The trend of dry shampoo is definitely not dying, but continues to grow,” she said. “With benefits like absorbing oil and boosting volume, this is a great solution for extending that perfect blow dry. It can also be used as a styling aid to add texture and grit to an updo or braid.”
One the bigger launches this season in dry shampoo is from Carol’s Daughter, New York. Touted as a dry shampoo that conditions as it cleanses, the new Monoi (Repairing System) Conditioning Dry Shampoo is said to absorb oily buildup for on-the-go styling. Colors include Dark Tone or Light Tone for a perfect match. Natural starch helps hair maintain its natural luster and shine, while willow bark extract extends your style for a look that lasts. Products are sold at Ulta and online.
According to Carol’s Daughter founder Lisa Price, “The biggest trend we have seen throughout the past five years is a shift to shampoo and conditioners being more about care and less about perfunctory item in your regimen. I am proud to say that is something on which Carol’s Daughter has focused on since I created my first shampoo nearly 20 years ago. The shampoo process is the first step towards a great style—not just that thing you ‘have to do’ to have clean hair.”
Promising Prospects
As more of the premium/salon inspired products meet and or exceed the consumer’s everyday needs, this key subsegment should continue to grow in the hair care category. According to Kontz of Vogue International, innovation will continue to be a key driver as well as products that cater to the changing demographics of the general consumer and their changing hair care needs.
Baumhauer of eSalon noted that the seasons play a huge part in how clients shop for products. She told Happi, “Just like how we change our wardrobe in winter, clients need to adjust their hair routine as well.”
Future trends include continued emphasis on problem-solving and anti-aging SKUs, observed Barson of Kline, with more scalp care and hair growth simulating products coming to the mass market.
Something big the industry will also see is a continued trend toward a “complete wellness” approach to beauty, said Roche of Pureology. She explained, “Styles are leaning towards a much more natural, effortless look so the products that make hair look naturally healthy with a lot of movement and shine will be the 2016 winners. Also, while multi-taskers continue to grow, there is another trend towards more complex beauty routines, inspired by Korean skin care regimens. It will be interesting to see how this is applied to hair care in the future.”
Roche added, “Prestige, high-end hair care has weathered the economic storms and come out on top, largely because it’s an affordable luxury. When times are tough, you don’t treat yourself to a new car, you treat yourself to a $30 bottle of shampoo!”
Looking for a new ingredient for your hair care formula?
In today’s increasingly digital and social world, 74% of people report using emojis daily and 67% of all women and girls agree they can better express what they want to say with emojis than with words. With that, Dove is reaching out to all hair textures with the new Dove Love Your Curls Emojis—the first emoji keyboard designed to represent curly girls everywhere, said the company. The Dove Love Your Curls Emoji Keyboard—developed in partnership with Snaps—is the first end-to-end platform for brand marketing across messaging applications and devices. It is now available for free download in the App Store and Google Play, and can be used in text and messenger systems, including iMessage, SMS/text, Facebook messenger and WhatsApp. The keyboard contains 27 unique curly hair designs, with selectable skin tone and hair color—resulting in a total of 131 curly emoji variations, including seven animated GIFs. |
Festive, fashionable looks have never been easier. Scunci is bringing celebrity trends to tresses with new hair tattoos that work on both skin and hair. Applied with water, each stylish tattoo brings a metallic glimmer to your look, and comes off just as easily as it goes on. Available in assorted colors/designs for $4.99, products are sold at Walmart, Walgreens, Rite Aid, Ulta and Target. |