Imogen Matthews, Consultant04.01.16
Although seasonality drives European sun care sales, brands are increasingly looking at ways of adding value to encourage consumers to incorporate sunscreens as part of a regular skin care regime. The latest sun care launches offer much more than sun protection and are moving into new territory, such as defense against infrared-A rays, anti-aging claims and cosmetic hybrids.
European sun care sales have recently been sluggish, according to Euromonitor, which recorded a drop of 1% on sales of $2.8 billion in 2014. Sun protection was the largest sector at $2.2 billion. The UK leads the European market, accounting for 17% of sales, closely followed by France and Italy at 16% apiece. The difficulty facing sun care brands is that resistance to using sun protection is still ingrained for many people, especially the British.
According to a survey conducted by Ladival, a leading European pharmacy sun care brand that launched in the UK in 2015, 88% of Brits do not wear UV protection daily, more than half do not know they need to reapply it every two hours and nearly 40% get sunburned because they simply forget to use it.
The New Frontier?
While the dangers of overexposure to UVA/B rays are well documented, only recently has research focused on the impact of infrared-A rays.They make up a third of the sun’s damaging rays and have been shown to be the most penetrating, causing both short and long-term damage.
Most mainstream brands do not protect against IR-A, though this could change. Sun care brands are looking at IR-A as the next big issue, although to date, just two brands offer IR-A protection.
Ladival’s infrared-A protection system (IR-D Infrared Defence) is said to be clinically proven to protect against IR-A rays.
“Standard sunscreens that we currently know and buy only protect against UVA and UVB,” said Justine Hextall, consultant dermatologist and fellow of the Royal College of Physicians. “That means they protect against just 7% of the sun’s rays. By choosing a sunscreen that also includes Infrared-A protection, people can protect against 37% of the sun’s rays, that’s protection against four times more of the sun’s damaging rays.”
In 2015, Ladvil began its Think Infrared campaign to get people educated on the unknown threat of IR-A. Ladvil is not alone in tackling the IR-A issue. Leading UK pharmacy chain LloydsPharmacy is the first retailer to introduce a triple defense protection system against UVA, UVA and IR-A in its Solero range.
UV in Anti-Aging Claims
Zelens brand founder and renowned authority in the fields of skin aging and skin cancer, Dr. Marko Lens, has just one tip for the future: use sunscreen, which he believes people should use daily, regardless of the weather.
The Zelens Daily Defence Sunscreen Broadspectrum SPF30 features micro-encapsulation technology consisting of organic UV filters contained within silica-based capsules. These are invisible on the skin and allow an extremely high level of sun protection without exacerbating sensitivity or allergies.
The product is positioned as a single skin care step due to its non-greasy formula which is rich in potent antioxidants and hyaluronic acid.
Canadean has identified Shiseido’s WetForce Expert Aging Protection Cream Plus as an example of a sun protection product that is explicitly positioned to prevent aging from UV, which highlights the growing concerns over the impact of UV exposure in accelerating the aging process.
This ties in with Canadean’s research showing that 64% of Europeans believe spending less time in the sun can be effective in making you look younger. Shiseido’s WetForce technology claims to reinforce “the UV-protective veil when it comes into contact with water or perspiration.”
Ingestable Tanning Activators
From Spain comes WUG Tanning Activator chewing gum, which contains betacarotene, lycopene, and vitamins C, E and D3 as a complement to activate tanning. Company executives insist the gum helps chewers resist external aggressors while promoting cell renewal.
“WUGum is the first company that has released a chewing gum with extra benefits in Spain, which represents an opportunity for the manufacturer of developing the concept of ‘functional gums’ in the country and thus occupy a prominent position in the market,” explained Jamie Mills, analyst, Canadean. “However the challenge will lie in convincing consumers of their efficacy, especially given the concern over UV exposure on health and appearance.”
Innovations in Self-Tanning
Self-tanners represent less than 10% of the European sun care market, according to Euromonitor International, which contradicts the large amount of new product development around artificial tanning.
Clarins, for example, has extended its bespoke self-tanning concept for face into body, with Radiance Plus Body Golden Glow Booster, which is designed to be mixed with any body moisturizer according to preference to create a natural-looking tan.
BeautyLab’s Tanning collection claims to be the only sunless range that simultaneously boosts natural and fake tanning, while smoothing and firming the skin with peptides.
The formulation contains the tan-inducing peptide, lactobacillus ferment, that works with two different types of melanin in the skin to create a natural, streak-free tan, while claiming to produce a deeper longer-lasting natural tan when out in the sun.
He-Shi Overnight Ageless Tanning Balm combines anti-aging skin care and self-tanning benefits and includes Brazilian millesis, a plant-derived anti-aging ingredient with powerful antioxidant properties that has been grown using eco-friendly sustainable methods.
Leading UK premium self-tanner, St. Tropez, is undergoing a relaunch this year with several new changes to formulations. The first is a new fragrance developed by Givaudan, which has been scientifically proven to eliminate the telltale smell that DHA generates on contact with the skin.
The Professional Bronzing Mists have a new Pro Hydra-Gel complex for a quicker and smoother tanning application with added hydration. All St. Tropez products have new fast-absorbing, quick-drying and hydrating textures.
Finally, Benefit Hoola Zero Tan Lines Body Bronzer is a new hybrid product that combines bronzer with a self-tan body lotion and comes with a sponge applicator to allow hands-free application without staining hands.
Whatever the weather this summer, there are opportunities for sun care brands to educate consumers on more regular application and to provide them with the tools for a great-looking tan or a golden glow.
Imogen Matthews
Headington, Oxford UK
Tel: +44 1865 764918
Imogen Matthews is a respected consultant, journalist and researcher focusing on trends in the beauty industry. She regularly contributes to many of the world’s foremost beauty trade titles. Every year in April, she publishes The Premium Market Report, focusing on trends in the UK premium beauty markets. More info: www.thepremiummarketreport.com
European sun care sales have recently been sluggish, according to Euromonitor, which recorded a drop of 1% on sales of $2.8 billion in 2014. Sun protection was the largest sector at $2.2 billion. The UK leads the European market, accounting for 17% of sales, closely followed by France and Italy at 16% apiece. The difficulty facing sun care brands is that resistance to using sun protection is still ingrained for many people, especially the British.
According to a survey conducted by Ladival, a leading European pharmacy sun care brand that launched in the UK in 2015, 88% of Brits do not wear UV protection daily, more than half do not know they need to reapply it every two hours and nearly 40% get sunburned because they simply forget to use it.
The New Frontier?
While the dangers of overexposure to UVA/B rays are well documented, only recently has research focused on the impact of infrared-A rays.They make up a third of the sun’s damaging rays and have been shown to be the most penetrating, causing both short and long-term damage.
Most mainstream brands do not protect against IR-A, though this could change. Sun care brands are looking at IR-A as the next big issue, although to date, just two brands offer IR-A protection.
Ladival’s infrared-A protection system (IR-D Infrared Defence) is said to be clinically proven to protect against IR-A rays.
“Standard sunscreens that we currently know and buy only protect against UVA and UVB,” said Justine Hextall, consultant dermatologist and fellow of the Royal College of Physicians. “That means they protect against just 7% of the sun’s rays. By choosing a sunscreen that also includes Infrared-A protection, people can protect against 37% of the sun’s rays, that’s protection against four times more of the sun’s damaging rays.”
In 2015, Ladvil began its Think Infrared campaign to get people educated on the unknown threat of IR-A. Ladvil is not alone in tackling the IR-A issue. Leading UK pharmacy chain LloydsPharmacy is the first retailer to introduce a triple defense protection system against UVA, UVA and IR-A in its Solero range.
UV in Anti-Aging Claims
Zelens brand founder and renowned authority in the fields of skin aging and skin cancer, Dr. Marko Lens, has just one tip for the future: use sunscreen, which he believes people should use daily, regardless of the weather.
The Zelens Daily Defence Sunscreen Broadspectrum SPF30 features micro-encapsulation technology consisting of organic UV filters contained within silica-based capsules. These are invisible on the skin and allow an extremely high level of sun protection without exacerbating sensitivity or allergies.
The product is positioned as a single skin care step due to its non-greasy formula which is rich in potent antioxidants and hyaluronic acid.
Canadean has identified Shiseido’s WetForce Expert Aging Protection Cream Plus as an example of a sun protection product that is explicitly positioned to prevent aging from UV, which highlights the growing concerns over the impact of UV exposure in accelerating the aging process.
This ties in with Canadean’s research showing that 64% of Europeans believe spending less time in the sun can be effective in making you look younger. Shiseido’s WetForce technology claims to reinforce “the UV-protective veil when it comes into contact with water or perspiration.”
Ingestable Tanning Activators
From Spain comes WUG Tanning Activator chewing gum, which contains betacarotene, lycopene, and vitamins C, E and D3 as a complement to activate tanning. Company executives insist the gum helps chewers resist external aggressors while promoting cell renewal.
“WUGum is the first company that has released a chewing gum with extra benefits in Spain, which represents an opportunity for the manufacturer of developing the concept of ‘functional gums’ in the country and thus occupy a prominent position in the market,” explained Jamie Mills, analyst, Canadean. “However the challenge will lie in convincing consumers of their efficacy, especially given the concern over UV exposure on health and appearance.”
Innovations in Self-Tanning
Self-tanners represent less than 10% of the European sun care market, according to Euromonitor International, which contradicts the large amount of new product development around artificial tanning.
Clarins, for example, has extended its bespoke self-tanning concept for face into body, with Radiance Plus Body Golden Glow Booster, which is designed to be mixed with any body moisturizer according to preference to create a natural-looking tan.
BeautyLab’s Tanning collection claims to be the only sunless range that simultaneously boosts natural and fake tanning, while smoothing and firming the skin with peptides.
The formulation contains the tan-inducing peptide, lactobacillus ferment, that works with two different types of melanin in the skin to create a natural, streak-free tan, while claiming to produce a deeper longer-lasting natural tan when out in the sun.
He-Shi Overnight Ageless Tanning Balm combines anti-aging skin care and self-tanning benefits and includes Brazilian millesis, a plant-derived anti-aging ingredient with powerful antioxidant properties that has been grown using eco-friendly sustainable methods.
Leading UK premium self-tanner, St. Tropez, is undergoing a relaunch this year with several new changes to formulations. The first is a new fragrance developed by Givaudan, which has been scientifically proven to eliminate the telltale smell that DHA generates on contact with the skin.
The Professional Bronzing Mists have a new Pro Hydra-Gel complex for a quicker and smoother tanning application with added hydration. All St. Tropez products have new fast-absorbing, quick-drying and hydrating textures.
Finally, Benefit Hoola Zero Tan Lines Body Bronzer is a new hybrid product that combines bronzer with a self-tan body lotion and comes with a sponge applicator to allow hands-free application without staining hands.
Whatever the weather this summer, there are opportunities for sun care brands to educate consumers on more regular application and to provide them with the tools for a great-looking tan or a golden glow.
Imogen Matthews
Headington, Oxford UK
Tel: +44 1865 764918
Imogen Matthews is a respected consultant, journalist and researcher focusing on trends in the beauty industry. She regularly contributes to many of the world’s foremost beauty trade titles. Every year in April, she publishes The Premium Market Report, focusing on trends in the UK premium beauty markets. More info: www.thepremiummarketreport.com
