“Quite often, when we find one we prefer, it becomes our only choice. But not for long. Perfume trends are shifting in 2016. With more than 1,200 fragrances heading to market each year, the notion that people stick to one scent for life is quickly evaporating,” Rachel ten Brink, CMO/co-founder of designer perfume and cologne subscription company Scentbird of New York City, told Happi. The multitude of offerings in the marketplace today proves it.
US prestige beauty sales reached $16 billion in 2015—a 7% increase over 2014 results, according to global information company The NPD Group, Inc. Fragrance outperformed skin care as fragrance dollars grew 4% to $4 billion. Growth in juices outperformed the overall fragrance market in 2015, and sales rose for home ancillaries such as candles as well.
“Looking at some of the top performing brands, we’re also seeing that consumers are increasingly drawn to emotional rather than functional appeal,” noted Karen Grant, global beauty industry analyst, The NPD Group. “This craving of a more sensory experience is having a positive influence on fragrance sales as well. Brands and manufacturers that win listen and find compelling ways to respond to the increasingly diverse crowd of consumers before them, who are being influenced and inspired by society in ever-changing ways.”
As fine fragrance sales in department stores climb to new levels, the same can’t be said in mass market aisles.
According to Information Resources Inc. (IRI), women’s fragrance sales fell 4.5% to $745.5 million in US multi-outlet (supermarkets, drugstores, mass market retailers, military commissaries and select club and dollar retail chains) for the 52 weeks ended Jan. 24, 2016. Perfumes and colognes/body powder slipped 2.4% to $536.3 million, while women’s gift packs fell 9.4% to $209.1 million. In the shaving lotion/men’s fragrance sector, shaving lotion/cologne/talc dipped 2% to $574.9 million while men’s gift pack/sets declined 3% to $235.7 million.
Light and Bright
In the Northeastern US, where there are four distinctive seasons (and where winter is now retreating), the first signs of Spring are emerging, and what a welcome sign that is! According to Sue Phillips, president and founder, Scenterprises, New York, spring always sees lighter fragrances being requested and so the fresh, crisp citrus, green, transparent ozonic fragrances are what people are seeking out.
“Americans love the feeling of ‘fresh and clean’ and want to feel invigorated,” she said. “So, bright, clear, sparkling citrusy notes like mandarin or bergamot are usually top of the Spring fragrance hit parade, combined with gentle lily of the valley, with a hint of lemon and jasmine notes. Light fresh florals are combined with crisp, green, grassy notes for a head turning lovely light scent in the air.”
For example, Aerin Lauder’s latest fragrance, Mediterranean Honeysuckle, blends sweet honeysuckle and sparkling grapefruit, evoking lush flowers and shimmering beaches, said the company. Grown in the warmth of the Mediterranean sun, Italian bergamot is paired with mandarin oil and grapefruit to impart an effervescent citrusy glow alongside Bourgeon de Cassis. The sheer femininity of lily of the valley and lush gardenia glistens with the sweetness of honeysuckle blossoms and builds to a sleek and sensual richness of jasmine sambac absolute with a warm, silky embrace of ambrox with musk. The Mediterranean Honeysuckle Collection consists of an eau de parfum spray (1.7- and 3.4oz) and rollerball (8ml), body cream, body wash and bar soap.
Other news at The Estée Lauder Companies Inc. is the acquisition of By Kilian, the Paris-based prestige fragrance brand. Founded in 2007 by Kilian Hennessy, By Kilian is sold in more than 40 countries worldwide—primarily in North America, Europe and the Middle East—through freestanding stores, select prestige department stores and perfumeries. By Kilian’s current product offerings include fragrances, candles and other accessories, as well as exclusive collections available in certain regions. Elements of the brand’s packaging, including perfume bottles and candleholders, are meant to be kept as keepsakes, which is reflective of Kilian’s philosophy that true luxury should not be disposable.
Additionally, Estée Lauder has captured “the essence of water” in the new limited edition fragrance, Pleasures Aqua, billed as a watery floral scent inspired by the pleasure of escaping to a place where the sky meets the sea and the scent of fresh flowers intermingles with crisp ocean air.
“Nature has always been the dynamic inspiration for Estée Lauder’s pleasures collection,” said Karyn Khoury, senior vice president, corporate fragrance development worldwide, New York. “With Pleasures Aqua, we bring a new sensation and scent experience to the portfolio. Taking inspiration from an invigorating, refreshing escape to water, we have created an evocative and appealing watery floral scent which combines the signature pleasures of femininity and joy of nature with the transportive qualities of water.”
Outdoor-inspired scents are also big at Inter Parfums. In 2002, Lanvin Éclat de Arpege—a fragrance inspired by the bond between Jeanne Lanvin and her daughter Marguerite, debuted. For February 2016, Lanvin reveals another fragrance design, Éclat de Fleurs. The bouquet conjures up the euphoria of a sunny stroll filled with flowers, according to the company. A fruity bouquet, it is said to blend the refined fragrance of flowers with the tangy scent of fruit in a radiant composition that brings to mind the effervescence of a spring afternoon.
“Sometimes, an image can strike you and stick in your mind. At the origin of this creation is one of them: a wild field of flowers that immersed us in an Impressionist painting. The green herbs were sprinkled with colorful flowers scintillating in the sun, thus creating a picture symbolizing a burst of flowers. For this fragrance, we have translated this image into scent. The rich and facetted ingredients of the fragrance gave us all the colors to create the DNA of the fragrance,” explained perfumer Anne Flipo of IFF, a designer of this creation.
The iconic form of a flower is carved into the round bottle. The marguerite (the name of Jeanne Lanvin’s beloved daughter) is engraved in the glass bottle with the gentle, curved petals, reminding affiliations Éclat de Fleurs to this family that already unites Arpege and Eclat d’ Arpege.
Meanwhile, an invigorating and alluringly feminine take on Oscar de la Renta’s Extraordinary is born this season: Extraordinary Pétale. Launching at Macy’s this month, romantic, lace-inspired touches from creative director Peter Copping collide with Oscar’s exuberant, floral signature, making Extraordinary Pétale a refreshingly modern scent for the contemporary woman. Described as a light, fruity, floral, woody scent with notes including zesty mandarin, rose at its heart and unfolding with couture amber and touches of vanilla orchid petals infused with radiant musk.
Also launching this month is the newest limited-edition fragrance from Michael Kors, Coral Eau de Parfum, which is a fresh scent inspired by the sundrenched tropics. This floral, fruity fragrance is infused with the sparkling zest of lemon and the juicy pulp of grapefruit. Mouthwatering mandarin and tingling green blackcurrant tease the senses, according to the company. Pink pepper lends an edge to the top note while rosy spice leaves an impression. At the core of the fragrance lies the refreshing sweetness of raspberry, the delicate femininity of orange flower, the hypnotic charm of tuberose and the exotic luxuriousness of jasmine. The dry down features warm ambrox, cedarwood and sandalwood.
Britney Spears channels sun-kissed skin and Hawaiian beaches in her 19th fragrance launch, Maui Fantasy Britney Spears Limited Edition. At the heart is a blend of fresh beachside florals: hibiscus petals, cyclamen, orange blossom and Hawaiian monoi. From the background, the warm aura of vanilla and coconut radiates with soft blue musk, white amber and beachy blonde woods.
Embodying the essence of Hawaii, the bottle takes inspiration from the captivating crystal blue waters surrounding the island, with a frosted-aqua hue. The bottle features a bright pink Hibiscus flower, one of the many symbols of this tropical escape.
“Whenever I have a chance to relax and spend time with my family, we escape to Hawaii,” Spears said in a press statement. “Maui is one of my favorite islands. I wanted to create a fragrance that gives me the amazing feeling I have while I’m there—surrounded by the ocean and beautiful flowers. Every time I smell Maui fantasy, it brings me back to a place of happiness and relaxation.”
Boldface Names Buzz
Coty and Tiffany & Co. have forged an agreement regarding the development, production and distribution of a new line of Tiffany fragrances for both women and men that will be sold at Tiffany & Co. stores and select luxury retailers.
“Tiffany is among the world’s most important houses of luxury, and fragrances are an important expression of the brand,” said Frédéric Cumenal, chief executive officer of Tiffany & Co. “We are pleased to work with Coty, an industry leader in the prestige fragrance category, on the development of a more meaningful fragrance portfolio through this licensing agreement.”
“Tiffany’s luxury heritage lends itself perfectly to Coty’s prestige fragrance portfolio,” said Bart Becht, chairman and interim chief executive officer, Coty. “We look forward to bringing Coty’s unique expertise to Tiffany by establishing a strong fragrance business for the brand.”
Model Gigi Hadid has been named the new brand ambassador for Tommy Hilfiger women’s beginning Fall 2016. As part of her exclusive ambassadorship, Hadid has partnered with Hilfiger to launch her first capsule collection, created in collaboration with the iconic American designer. It will feature a new fragrance touted as celebrating Hadid’s unique take on modern style fused with Hilfiger’s signature “classic American cool” heritage.
“I’ve known Gigi and her family for years, and it has been amazing to watch her grow into one of the world’s top models and most-followed fashion influencers,” said Hilfiger. “Gigi has walked in our runway shows and now we are thrilled to continue our collaboration with her as the new face of Tommy Hilfiger womenswear and fragrance. She is truly the definition of today’s Tommy Girl—her magnetic personality is bright and always optimistic, and her style is confident, effortless and cool.”
Dubbed a “social supermodel,” Hadid has been credited with reshaping the world of modeling in the 21st century, and reinventing the role of the supermodel in millennial culture. Through the incredible reach of her social media channels, she connects with fans around the world—over 9.8 million on Instagram alone—and offers them a unique, behind-the-scenes glimpse into her lifestyle as a trend-setting style icon. The collection and fragrance campaigns will be photographed in early 2016 in New York City, and will break globally in Fall 2016 with dedicated print, online and out-of-home media placements worldwide. To further support the global partnership, Hadid will attend exclusive launch events in key markets around the world, including appearing in the brand’s Hilfiger Collection fashion show during New York Fashion Week.
Victoria’s Secret Angel Romee Strijd unveiled Victoria’s Secret’s latest fragrance, xo, Victoria in New York City. The supermodel is the face of the brand’s newest scent. Inspired by the refreshing energy of springtime, xo, Victoria is a free-spirited twist on the original Victoria fragrance.
According to the company, xo, Victoria’s floralcy was built around the pairing of the trademarked Victoria Rose accord and sparkling twilight orchid, an exotic floral scent that can only be captured at nightfall. Sparkling citrus notes and lady apple give it a sunny feel, while hints of English ivy add woody warmth. The white lacquer bottle is a bright, fresh take on the original, splashed with vivid watercolor blooms and accented with the iconic handcrafted Victoria bow, reinvented for spring in modern, frosted white. The fragrance collection includes an eau de parfum, body lotion, body mist and rollerball.
In other updates, to celebrate their mother Natalie Wood, Natasha Gregson Wagner and Courtney Wagner have created a fragrance inspired by a scent the actress wore for most of her life. The perfume was developed by the luxury private label and packaging expert Crafting Beauty and French fragrance house Mane.
The story started years ago, when child-actress Natalie Wood met movie legend Barbara Stanwyck while filming the movie “The Bride Wore Boots.” She immediately fell in love with Stanwyck’s perfume, and the actress generously gave Natalie a bottle as a gift. From that day on, Natalie Wood always wore the perfume, which became her signature scent. The 50ml bottle is a little curved cube featuring a heavy base, and topped with a transparent “diamond” cap. The final personal touch is the reproduction of Natalie Wood’s actual signature on the bottle.
The fragrance, created by Claude Dir, master perfumer at Mane, is made of pure distilled essential oils and high-quality raw ingredients. The top notes are a heady blend of freesia, neroli, bigarade zest and rose. The heart notes are composed of lush gardenia, wrapped with orange flower, narcissus, jasmine and hyacinth. The base notes include fresh vanilla harmonies, soft woods and sheer musk.
Marketers are thinking outside the box this season with one-off approaches to fine fragrance.
“Artisanal fragrances are more intriguing than ever. One-of-kind scents are nothing new—hand made perfumes have been trending in major cities for several years—but now retailers are inviting shoppers in for a first-hand, one-of-a-kind experience,” said ten Brink of Scentbird.
For example, encapsulated in a pair of sleek, minimalist bottles in silver and gold silk screen, new Avon Attraction for Him and Her embodies the energizing, electrifying spark between lovers and complement each other seamlessly. Billed as a long-lasting fragrance, Avon Attraction for Her delivers a tantalizing first impression, while Avon Attraction for Him instantly captures your attention, according to the company.
Twenty years ago, luxury jewelry/watch purveyor Bulgari’s unexpected entry into the world of perfumery, Eau Parfumée au Thé Vert, began under the guidance of the Bulgari family, who commissioned master perfumer Jean-Claude Ellen to create a scent “utterly unprecedented,” said the company. The result was Eau Parfumée au Thé Vert – water perfumed with green tea – an abstract masterpiece because of its innovative olfactory concept of tea in fragrance.
Bulgari now introduces the next evolution in this exclusive sensory voyage, Eau Parfumee au Thé Noir, a new and bold translation that continues to celebrate the “art of tea.” Capturing the balance and refinement of the rarest and most special teas, this intense cologne is designed for both men and women. In the words of Veronica Bulgari, the initial concept of Eau Parfumée was “elegance, timelessness, plus a unique ingredient that had never been used before.” Eau Parfumée au Thé Noir continues in that spirit.
Envisioned by perfumer Jacques Cavallier, Eau Parfumée au Thé Noir presents an interpretation of the most noble and rarest notes of the black tea of Yunnan. Grown at an altitude of 2,000 meters, Yunnan tea blossoms in one of nature’s most fertile environments; in fact, the rich, red soil of mountainous South West China nurtures more than half of the country’s 18,000 most extraordinary plants. The gardens of the Yunnan province are legendary, and its capital, Kumming, has been called the City of Eternal Spring.
“To create Eau Parfumée eau Thé Noir I started from simple elements. My initial idea was to create a harmonious combination of black tea with a heart of patchouli. The smoked yet fresh flamboyance of black tea associated to the denser note, that is the heart of patchouli, radiates. The shadow and the light meet, echoing one another,” said Cavallier.
Diptyque and French fashion designer Olympia Le-Tan, known for her mischievous sense of humor and her passion for the color pink, brings a scent celebrating the mystery and allure of the contents of a woman’s handbag. A predominance of rose, traces of lipstick and the subtle warmth of leather capture the chic and quirky humor of the Rosaviola collection.
To honor the occasion, the corresponding candle is dressed like one of Olympia’s signature bags, the Diptyque oval embroidered in playful colors and sealed with a kiss.
At Frédéric Malle, tastemaker Bruno Jovanovic utilized a symbol of classic perfumery, patchouli, for Frédéric Malle Monsieur. A molecular distillation process ensures more than 50% of patchouli is obtained. The scent also contains tangerine topnotes to convey freshness. The patchouli and tangerine mingle with the enigmatic and syrupy character of rum absolute. Cedar and incense impart a sensuous and mystical vibration, while touches of modern amber confer a darker side to it. Hints of vanilla and musk tie everything together and soften the sharpness.
Founded in 2009, House of Matriarch draws inspiration from the “enchanted forest” of the Pacific Northwest. The independent fragrance house recently launched a High Perfumery collection at select Nordstrom department stores just in time for Valentine’s Day. The brand has rolled out four new perfumes in celebration of their Nordstrom partnership: Albatross, Trillium, Orca and Madrona. The perfumes are unisex.
“House of Matriarch is proud to be a part of the natural fragrance movement,” said CEO and creative director Christi Meshell, House of Matriarch, Bellevue, WA. “I created this brand to help reconnect people to nature, to help them find pleasure and enjoyment, even magic. We are thrilled to have our fragrance at Nordstrom, giving us the chance to share the magic with more people every day.”
House of Matriach was named the Top Indie Fragrance House of 2013 by Cafleurebon and is a current finalist for CEW’s Indie Brand Beauty Award.
New avant-garde scents at vegan Los Angeles perfumery Xyrena are inspired by virtual reality. Each release portrays a familiar scent: Dark Ride is evocative of a theme park experience; Factory Fresh offers the scent of new shoes while Xyrena 66 is reminiscent of a gas station.
By blending unconventional notes, Xyrena delivers highly sought after sensory experiences that were previously unavailable to consumers.
“There are several common scents people love but are unsafe for extended exposure or impossible to use as a personal fragrance,” said Killian Wells, Xyrena founder and perfumer. “Not unlike virtual reality, we’re creating olfactory simulations that evoke real world consciousness.”
In addition to oud—a musty, nutty fragrance on the rise made from the resin of Aquilaria trees—the fragrance forecast for the rest of the year includes warm praline, fruity essences and florals such as violet and freesia, noted ten Brink of Scentbird.
“If that’s too many to keep track of, it should come as little surprise that travel-size options are more popular and convenient than ever,” she explained. “These on-the-go products are buzzing big time for beauty brands with many offering purse-size solutions.”
Overall, the industry will continue to see sweeping changes as it adjusts to meet the needs of emotionally motivated customers, noted Meshell of House of Matriarch, who said this also creates “tremendous opportunity” for growth in the fine fragrance sector.
• Lacoste branches out into sport-inspired women’s fragrance.Spring marks the launch of Lacoste’s Eau De Lacoste L.12.12 Pour Elle. Coming four years after the launch of Eau De Lacoste L.12.12—the hugely successful male fragrance line inspired by the iconic Lacoste L.12.12 polo shirt—this new female collection will celebrate an equally recognizable garment: the Lacoste pleated tennis skirt.
The collection is comprised of three fragrances (Natural, Sparking and Elegant) and is sold at Kohl’s ($59-$76). Each has a unique olfactory personality, yet the collection comes together to embody the fresh femininity and moods of the Lacoste woman, said the company. Natural features notes of creamy coconut milk with woody orris; classic yet unexpected, warm florals at the heart of Elegant are matched with sophisticated vetiver at the base. Sparkling has a playful heart of French macaroon contrasted against a woody and earthy patchouli base. Each of the three fragrances is united with a white floral heart of jasmine expertly blended with different ingredients to accentuate the different moods within the collection.
Besides being a tennis champion, René Lacoste was also a great inventor and designer. In addition to the famous L.12.12 polo shirt, he also created technical and revolutionary tennis rackets, balls, golf clubs as well as the first tennis ball-serving machine!
More info: www.lacoste.com