During a skin care workshop held a few months ago by the Brazilian Association of Cosmetic, Toiletry and Perfumery Industry (ABIHPEC), dermatologist Flávia Addor explained that today, consumers expect their skin care products to deliver on their promises. Of course, the formulas must work in order to be repurchased, but a product’s sensory profile is what creates a loyal customer.
According to Mintel, the focus on emotional benefits was responsible for good sales of moisturizing body oils in Brazil, where, in 2015, 35% of people used body oils. A year later, the percentage climbed to 44%. Products that provide not only physical benefits, but emotional benefits too, can attract consumers, according to Mintel’s Healthy Lifestyles Brazil, a report released in 2014. Brazilians think that sleep (62%), positive mental state (22%) and stress control (14%) contribute to a healthier life.
Moisturizing lotions remain the most popular format in Brazil. Consumers want products that absorb quickly into the skin and leave a fresh feeling with a long-lasting fragrance; on the other hand, many Brazilians are aware they are not moisturizing their body, hands and feet as much as they should. They say they don’t have time to use body care products, and that’s why they seek the ones that help them save time, such as multifunctional products and moisturizers that can be used in the shower. Other barriers that prevent consumers from purchasing body care products include high prices, credibility of promises, and the durability of these benefits (moisturizers with long-lasting effects, for example). The main players, aware of these facts, are offering products that meet the consumer´s needs.
The Key Players
According to Euromonitor, Natura is the No. 3 global body care brand, trailing Vaseline (No. 2) and Nivea (No. 1). Natura is No. 1 in both Brazil and Latin America. Although Brazil is the No. 2 market for body care, only 66.7% of Brazilian women use moisturizers, according to Natura, which blames poor absorption and messy application. To remedy the situation, the company launched the first continuous moisturizing spray in Brazil. The Bag on Valve (BoV) technology provides a continuous stream of product. Application can occur at any angle, even when the container is upside down. The product, Natura Tododia Hidraspray Cotton, is part of the Natura Tododia (“all day”) line. Tododia debuted in 2003 and today is the No. 4 brand in Brazil. It was recently relaunched with new packaging and a new formula built with 100% vegetable oils. It is said to have better skin affinity for more natural and effective hydration while increasing the absorption of nutrients necessary for rebalancing the skin. The new textures and fragrances have been available since June and vary according to hydration needs.
The Essential Nutrition line includes lighter textures moisturizers to prolong the bath sensation with floral scents such as Cotton and Orchid.
The Nutrition Intense line is said to protect and reduce skin dryness with sweet floral scents. The Ultra-Hydrating formula reduces the whitish appearance of dry skin and Bath Exfoliating Pasta, with its exfoliating vegetables and creamy texture, prepares skin to receive long-lasting nourishing hydration.
The Highlight and Nutrition line has engaging and indulgent textures in intense and sensual fragrances, like Raspberry, Rose Pepper and Red Fruits. The products have formulas that highlight the natural glow of the skin for a soft and silky appearance. The standouts are the Exfoliating formula with Golden Sugar micro particles for renewing skin and the Moisturizing Mousse with nourishing oils and silky texture.
Although Natura is No. 1 in Latin America, the Boticario Group is No. 3, behind Nivea, according to Euromonitor. Boticario recently added novel products to its Nativa Spa including exfoliating sugar, satin cream, moisturizing bath and illuminating lotion. Exfoliating Sugar also moisturizes and fragrances skin. Satin Cream promotes deep hydration (up to 48 hours) with a velvety and dense texture. The Illuminator Lotion creates a subtle and sophisticated effect on the skin, moisturizes and protects, according to Boticario.
Although premium markets were hit by a strong dollar, dermocosmetic brands thrived. La Roche-Posay and Vichy, both from L’Oréal, are two of the most important brands in Brazil. The two key products are La Roche-Posay Lipikar Intensive Moisturizing Body Lotion and Vichy CelluDestock Overnight. La Roche-Posay Lipikar ensures intensive moisturizing with rapid absorption. It contains niacinamide, glycerin, shea butter, mineral salts and trace elements.
Vichy Cellu Destock Overnight combines 5% pure caffeine with Adipo-stim, a complex extracted from the yam root, horse chestnut and ginger. According to L’Oréal, a lack of sleep can cause a person to gain five kilos a year.
This formula was developed along with sleep experts who prepared a relaxing scent of lavender and rose to improve sleep quality.
Brazil’s professional skin care market is small compared to the US and Europe, but category sales rose 10% last year, according to Kline & Co. Body care is the most popular skin treatment in Brazil (about 70%), which directly reflects the beauty culture of a tropical country. According to estimates, this market will grow at a compound annual rate exceeding 5% through 2019, Kline predicts.
According to dermatologist Luciana Macedo, the main body care concerns of women are cellulite, sagging, stretch marks and localized fat, while men are more concerned with localized fat. She recommends lymphatic drainage and radio frequency for cellulite, ultrasound and selective radio frequency for localized fat, and micro-needling, radio frequency and fractional laser for stretch marks and sagging.
Adcos is Brazil’s professional skin care market leader. Its Reduxcel line offers a complete treatment for cellulite, localized fat and sagging. According to executive director Ricardo Maesk, the category requires constant innovation, both in cosmetic products as well as electronic equipment used in treatments at clinics. Currently it has invested in products for using in synergy with at-home devices for faster results.
This year, Adcos launched Reduxcel Power Delivery. The formula contains Adipo-Slim, an ingredient from a carnivorous plant extract which is said to remove excess fat and prevent its accumulation. Another active, Actigym, is based on a Bermuda sponge that reduces fat and stimulates muscle firmness. The product’s delivery vehicle reportedly guarantees greater permeation of actives and long-term action. To further power home the delivery message, Reduxcel Power Delivery’s packaging is accompanied by a dosing syringe to measure the exact amount of concentrated doses for treatments.
The body care market is rapidly evolving as consumers search for results. Shoppers have abandoned lower-priced, poor-performing products so there are many opportunities for companies to bring novelties to market.
Daniela Ferreira is a marketing and communication professional in both consumer and B2B cosmetic markets. With a degree in social communication and postgraduate work in business administration, her expertise includes managing and launching products, communication planning, market studies and analysis, and identifying new business opportunities. She also has beauty blog (www.circulodabeleza.com.br), and is a makeup artist and image consultant.