Those gains didn’t translate to the mass market. According to Information Resources Inc. (IRI), women’s fragrance sales fell 2.5% to $761.9 million in US multi-outlet (supermarkets, drugstores, mass-market retailers, military commissaries and select club and dollar retail chains) for the 52 weeks ended Aug. 7, 2016. Perfume, cologne and body powder sales slipped 4.2% to $532.8 million. However, shoppers like to give fragrance as presents: women’s gift pack sales rose 1.7% to $238.2 million. The segment for guys also followed suit—men’s fragrance/shaving lotion sales dropped 1.7% to $806.6 million while men’s gift pack/sets maintained at $237.7 million, according to IRI. Shaving lotion/cologne decreased 2.5% to $568.9 million.
For Fall 2016 and beyond, beauty companies spanning all price points are upping the ante with a variety of new developments in fine fragrance. Here’s a look at some notable rollouts for the season.
Why It’s Noteworthy: The designer shoe guru is taking steps into the beauty business with collections of lipstick, nail lacquer and now, fragrance. Louboutin is launching three scents for women: Bikini Questa Sera, Tornade Blonde and Trouble in Heaven. According to the company, each has its own unique personality, and what unites them is Louboutin’s idea behind their construction. The architecture of each fragrance mimics the stroke of a single high-note piano key, according to the company. The scent is like a vibrating “ping” that remains unchanging; one that reverberates straight through from top to bottom.
Intimate and compelling, Bikini Questa Sera takes the heat into the night. In the cool of the night air, the fragrance shimmers still in the moonlight, jasmine and tuberose, opalescent against the skin.
Tornade Blonde is feminine and potent. Gorgeous red rose lies deep in a bed of sweet violet and cassis. The iridescence of both the fragrance’s and the woman’s spirit is reflected in the garnetto-light gold ombré colors of the bottle.
Intoxicating and mysterious, Trouble in Heaven is the scent of provocation. Iris, patchouli and tonka absolut resonates with the dry heat of amber. The royal purple-and-gold ombré of the bottle evokes nobility and opulence.
Louboutin worked closely with designer Thomas Heatherwick and Heatherwick Studio to create a series of bottles that are innovative and ambitious in their design and manufacturing process. The 80ml parfums sell for $275 each.
Why It’s Noteworthy: With more than 1600 new scents vying for the fragrance shopper’s attention each year, how does a luxury fragrance brand stand out? And, with digital competing with the world of print, for readers, how can print remain relevant? Luxury Subscriptions claims to have the solution. This unique fragrance exploration platform redefines the concept of “Try Before You Buy,” allowing members to get to know a scent before making a purchase, and simultaneously elevating the experience that only a print magazine can deliver. It features deluxe trials of the latest fragrances in combination with Harper’s Bazaar magazine delivered directly to their door. The November issue featured a Tory Burch fragrance sample.
Members of Luxury Subscriptions pay an annual rate of $50 for a one-year subscription to Harper’s Bazaar. Every other month members receive a special edition of the magazine wrapped and decorated in the signature colors and graphics of the featured fragrance. To become a member, consumers are invited to visit www.LuxurySubscriptions.com. Consumers will discover up to three deluxe beauty mist fragrance trials protected in a specially designed “onsert” along the spine of the magazine. Each 2.5ml deluxe trial delivers 50 sprays of a coveted prestige fragrance. The company is the creation of Mark Husmann, a former celebrity photographer, and Jean Hoehn Zimmerman, a longtime beauty industry executive who served as EVP of Chanel.
Katy Perry Mad Love
Why It’s Noteworthy: Since you never know whom you’ll meet, be sure to leave a lasting flirtatious scent with Katy Perry Mad Love. This playfully floriental fruity fragrance opens with Lady Apple sorbet and Mara strawberry blended to perfection with freshness of delicious pink grapefruit. Middle notes of peony petals, jasmine and bleeding heart flower captivate the senses. The essence of the bleeding heart flower is said to purify and strengthen the Heart Chakra, bringing an open-hearted attitude, soothing emotions, and re-inviting the spirit of love into one’s body and soul, according to the company. The product retails for $29.98 at Kohls.com.
Caron Paris Pour un Homme L’Impact
Why It’s Noteworthy: Miami-based distribution company Paris Perfumes Inc., on behalf of Caron Paris, recently launched Pour un Homme L’Impact, which is said to compliment the original aromatic amber infusion of Pour Un Homme Original, Caron Paris’ renowned fragrance which was created in 1934.
L’Impact offers “on-the-go” consumers the option of taking their favorite scent with them, due to its convenient travel-friendly size. This elegant fragrance borrows from the classic Pour Un Homme, which continues to be cherished from generation to generation, but is an extract-based fragrance that exudes boldness and class with its hints of lavender and vanilla. The 75ml bottle, available for $300, is dressed with an engraved tin label that is protected by a soft, suede pouch with matching anthracite case.
Caron Paris is the second oldest Parisian perfume house in history at 109 years and counting. It is also the only perfume house that is perfume led, not fashion led, it contends. Patrick Alès purchased the company in 1998, and Romain, his son, maintains ownership. It recently partnered with Superfine! The Fairest Fair (one of Miami Art Week 2016’s official art fairs) to feature an interactive, multi-sensory art installation for visitors created by local Haitian artist Asser Saint-Val. This innovative installation at Superfine! is the culmination of Caron Paris’ “Awaken Your Senses” fall campaign.
The brand’s appreciation and dedication to artistry inspired Caron Paris to develop and highlight each sense individually through various artistic projects. Starting this month, these projects will be showcased and promoted across the brand’s social media platforms.
Why It’s Noteworthy: The ‘90s are back big time. With trends like vampy lips, chokers, and classic red, white and blue Tommy Hilfiger gear reemerging, it’s time to bring back your favorite ‘90s Tommy Girl scent— but with an updated spin. Enter Tommy Hilfiger’s newest fragrance: The Girl.
Fresh and crisp like the original Tommy Girl scent, The Girl opens with a burst of green pear, violet leaf and green fig before moving to the heart of velvety jasmine petals and silky muguet. Cedarwood and cashmeran envelop the fragrance for its signature finish, to capture Tommy Hilfiger’s mantra of individuality and confidence.
The fragrance is available at Macy’s and Macys.com for $57 for 3.4oz spray.
Bond No. 9 Sutton Place
Why It’s Noteworthy: Bond No. 9 has a history of firsts. It is the first-ever, city-oriented parfumerie, scenting the neighborhoods of its beloved New York—including Wall Street and Park Avenue South. Now, it rolled out the world’s first and only first diplomatic eau de parfum—which, of course, could only emanate from New York, home to the United Nations headquarters.
The scent’s locale is Sutton Place, the six-block stretch of handsome prewar buildings sandwiched between the 59th Street Bridge and the U.N. Building. According to Bond No. 9, Sutton Place, the scent, has a distinctly masculine profile. It is billed as an impactful gourmand floral oriental whose topnotes are a tangy-spicy cocktail: citrusy bergamot and tangerine combined with piquant pink pepper, fresh but intense cassis and juicy, tropical, flavorful pineapple. At Sutton Place’s heart is an assertive floral bouquet of jasmine, lily and patchouli. What gives this scent its ultimate bona fides are its strong, classically male base notes: amber, musk and leather, leavened by a shot of vanilla.
The Sutton Place bottle is also first in the Bond No. 9 repertory to be colored brown—a deep, rich cigar-toned maduro brown, with a touchable texture reminiscent of reptile skin. 100ml retails for $350.
Aerin Rose de Grasse
Why It’s Noteworthy: Discover a new expression of rose with Aerin Lauder’s latest creation, the Aerin Rose de Grasse collection. It features the first parfum within her premier collection—a luxurious olfactive celebration of the most rare, expensive and artisanal perfumery ingredients re-imagined through the lens of Aerin’s style and creativity, said the company. A modern interpretation of Aerin’s signature flower, the rose, Aerin Rose de Grasse features a fusion of roses at the heart—including the hundred-petaled Rose Centifolia, hand-picked in Grasse, the French capital of perfumery since the 16th century.
The Aerin Rose de Grasse Collection further expands with luxe ancillaries, selected by Aerin to bring the captivating rose scent to life. The collection includes creamy Rose de Grasse body wash and a rich Rose de Grasse body cream as well as a candle. Leading the set is a Rose de Grasse rollon fragrance oil ($75) said to capture the fusion of three of the most precious rose ingredients in an elegant, convenient, travel-size glass bottle. It was crafted with a blend of natural oils and emollients too. A giftable Rose de Grasse Solid Perfume ($250) Charm Bracelet & Necklace (pictured) features a solid scent in a compact charm for wearable fragrance. Enjoy its pure luxury by itself or linked to the matching bracelet or necklace for a portably chic and rich scent at any time.
Clean For Men Black Leather & White Vetiver
Why It’s Noteworthy: Just in time for fall, experience the new Clean For Men Black Leather and Clean For Men White Vetiver. Black Leather features a spicy and smoky musk for the sophisticated edgy man who exudes confidence and authority. It opens with a fresh spiciness from bergamot and black peppercorn. A signature heart of juniper, spearmint leaf, violet leaf and black orchid give the fragrance an elegant and sophisticated edge. Musk, black leather and amber envelop the senses, leaving a smoky, confident trail.
White Vetiver features a clean, ethereal vetiver with a warm woody smoked aroma for the sophisticated clean-cut man, said the company. It contains fresh-harvested vetiver roots enhanced by savory rich earth. This fragrance is both fresh and warm, according to Clean For Men.
DKNY Be Tempted
Why It’s Noteworthy: The latest in the DKNY fragrance line, DKNY Be Tempted captures the exciting feeling of New York City in a new gourmand oriental that’s packaged in a luxurious red glass bottle with metallic spray-through cap featuring a snake embellishment. Enticing top notes include a black currant bud and devil licorice layered with a juicy red fruit accord. Lemon and wine sap apple accords add an intoxicating twist. The heart of the fragrance merges luxurious rose oil essential with the distinctive allure of violet and rich orange flower. Exotic patchouli oil Indonesia converges with the creamy enchantment of vanilla and mysterious intrigue of myrrh.
Why It’s Noteworthy: Avon’s latest creation is Prima. The fragrance celebrates female strength and resilience, as inspired by the grace and beauty of a ballet dance. The face of the scent is America Ballet Theatre dancer Courtney Lavine. Prima launches in November for $30.
Korres for Urban Outfitters
Why It’s Noteworthy: Trendy “20-somethings’” can add Korres bath and body products to their shopping bags filled with retro ‘90s grunge wear at select Urban Outfitters stores and online. Three scent stories will be available in EDT, body wash and body milk collections: Bellflower Tangerine Pink Pepper, White Tea Bergamot Freesia and Velvet Orris Violet White Pepper.
The range is available exclusively at select Urban Outfitters stores and online; prices range from $18.50 to $38.50.
Why It’s Noteworthy: Michael Kors unveils a striking evolution of style and spirit with his new fragrance for women, Wonderlust. It introduces a fresh perspective to the Michael Kors world of beauty, one as inspired by the journey as it is by the destination, according to the brand. World-renowned model Lily Aldridge is the face of the campaign.
A blend of luxurious blossoms mingle with delectably spiced notes in this oriental floral gourmand. The fragrance begins with the freshness of Italian bergamot and a tantalizing pop of pink pepper, smoothed by refined almond milk. Bright florals bloom from a captivating signature that is deepened with the provocative spice of Dianthus and the sheer, vanilla-like touch of heliotrope. A finish of benzoin siam, sandalwood Sri Lanka and cashmeran wood completes the juice.
In a campaign by photographer and director Mario Testino, Aldridge pursues adventure, romance and discovery with Dutch model Wouter Peelen.
Ermenegildo Zegna Essenze Gold Collection
Why It’s Noteworthy: Like the original fragrances that launched the Ermenegildo Zegna Parfums range—Italian Bergamot, Sicilian Mandarin, Javanese Patchouli, Indonesian Oud, Florentine Iris, Haitian Vetiver and Mediterranean Neroli—Essenze Goldare are touted as “rich with tradition, complexity and opulence.” Three handcrafted, signature scents inspired by amber, incense and musk strike the perfect balance of sensuality, strength and masculinity, said the company.
Zegna Italian bergamot from Calabria is the common thread that unites all 10 scents in the Essenze range. The House has secured the bergamot harvest from one region for years to come. Each fragrance is housed in a modern glass bottle with a brilliant color rendition of gold juice, and features an updated custom label with gold hot stamp edged in a rich port border. A striking black boot and magnetic black cap top it off.
Amber Gold is the first addition that highlights variations of the timeless Bulgarian Rose, in a richer and darker interpretation, with undulating amber. With mid notes of lavender seillan essence, the dry down is balanced with a duet of ambranum and benzoin siam woven with sandalwood, patchouli and vetiver for texture.
Incense Gold is the second addition that expands the intoxicating incense note with a multifaceted freshness of an aromatic complex of citrus notes, creating personality that envelops. Ideal for layering, Italian cypress and Italian lemon blaze forth as top notes, while white flowers, jasmine sambac absolute and lotus flower enrapture as mid notes.
The smoky incense signature note weaves its way through rich leather and saffron, enhanced by the richness of cypriol and sandalwood to create a captivating dry down.
Musk Gold is the third “ultra-sophisticated” addition inspired by the mystery of musk. It opens with vibrant accents of black pepper and coriander, heightened by wild brushstrokes of saffron. The heart is a modern fusion of textured Moroccan cedarwood, warm carrot seed heart LMR and magnetic myrrh, reinforcing the fragrance’s deep and mysterious aura.
Underneath, the hypnotic power of musk is unveiled as it cascades over a powerful finish of dark patchouli, rugged leather and opulent oud.
Crush by Rihanna
Why It’s Noteworthy: Joining favorites such as Rebelle, Rogue Love and RiRi, Crush by Rihanna recently rolled out at Macy’s. Products span from a 3.4oz EDP ($60) to a .2oz Rollerball ($20) to $60 for a $60 holiday set. Breaking boundaries and setting new rules, this perfume feels empowering, strong, confident and unapologetic, said the company. It is a blend of woody notes.
It’s the 70th anniversary of the Givaudan Perfumery School, which teaches the craftsmanship of perfumery. Celebrating the school’s long history and looking forward to the future, Givaudan reflected on the countless achievements and industry-changing ideas born within its walls.
Jean Carles, who founded the school in 1946, is credited with creating the well-known method for mastering the art of perfumery. Today, the undisputed reputation of the Givaudan Perfumery School can be attributed to the great perfumers who have constantly shaped the world of fragrances for many decades. It opened a campus in Singapore in 2015, the first outside of France, devoted to training perfumery students to experience and recognize the olfactive preferences in the Asia-Pacific region.
“The 70th anniversary is an exciting time for us to reflect on our rich heritage and look forward to the future. This anniversary is an opportunity for Givaudan to embrace the significance of our history and prepare the next generation of perfumers that will go on to hone their craft in our creative centers. The School prepares them to collaborate closely with our customers to create meaningful fragrances for prestigious brands and manufacturers of consumer products worldwide. These are the same customers who trust us fully to train their teams in the craft of fragrance creation,” said CEO Gilles Andrier.
To celebrate this milestone, the school hosted the first Givaudan Young Perfumers Forum in Argenteuil, France, an internal event bringing together young perfumers and students alike to share their perspectives and to collaborate on new initiatives that will take the perfumery business to new heights.