Michael Canalé knows the ins and outs of hair color. The California-based hair color guru, with salons across the US, including Beverly Hills, New York and San Francisco, is a colorist to the stars. He personally travels between locations to meet with his clients, and his list reads like a celebrity primer, having created color looks for Jennifer Aniston, Kyra Sedgwick, Carolyn Murphy, Faye Dunaway and Denise Richards. The long-time colorist, with a 37-year career to his credit, once wanted to be a physician, but his path diverted to caring for hair along the way. His signature color looks and A-list following leave no doubt about the wisdom of his choice.


Canalé, who is launching a healthy hair care line suitable for all, shared his insights into how he addresses hair color “from the inside out and from the outside in.” In response to a question about color usage today, Canalé said, “Color products are now more usable for the stylist. Easy to use color is important, and products are more user-friendly.”


Regarding improved color, he touched on trends that make color, color usage, and protection better today. He described the old days, when coal tar derivatives were used, and the changes that have occurred as clients seek safer, less abrasive products to color the hair.


“Back in the day of coal tar derivatives, the darker the color we used, the more color was deposited. We began condensing color molecules to make darker colors. For example, a chocolate brown can be made out of a light brown to medium brown,” Canalé explained.


There is also a movement to vegetal colors, he added. There are also ways to keep color off the scalp.


If you’re really going to be safe, you’ll keep it off the scalp,” he said.


He explained that for customers who are experiencing a few gray hairs and are seeking coverage, you don’t need to color all over to cover 10 gray hairs.


“Find a colorist who actually cares and will apply the color as needed,” said Canalé.


Integrity and Trends


Canalé noted his particular specialty of caring for the hair color of pregnant women, and described a safe and effective isolated foil technique that he uses for clients. He explained that some vegetal colors, like henna, tend to be too reddish, noting that he can take pigment out of plants to mix with henna to reduce the red and tone down the color.


“We actually use high heat levels to extract from pomegranate seed and walnut shell,” he added. “If you do want to use henna it gives a stain to the hair, with a coating, so much so that clients are going to feel the actual fabric of the color. It’s not for everyone. You’re better off getting me to foil your gray away or finely touch up the individual gray hairs using the tip of a tail comb, for example,” he said.


Canalé prides himself on helping to maintain the integrity of the hair and not losing sight of the art of coloring hair.


When asked what trends he observed in hair color, Canalé noted an abundance of “aggressive colors.” He also said that in the glamour world there is considerable use of the balayage technique, or the use of hair painting with hot bleach or lightening agent. The word balayage comes from the French, meaning to sweep or paint, and the technique is said to create a sun-kissed natural looking hair color. It is a freehand technique and uses no foils to highlight. Canalé described how balayage began with the ombre look, and credits Drew Barrymore for starting the trend, when she first appeared without new color applied at the root. “With balayage, you’re applying color away from the root,” explained Canalé, adding that it was not always learned correctly.


“Today we are increasingly doing seamless highlighting as the balayage technique goes away. The seamless highlight is now a big trend. It creates depth and definition with a natural look. Ombre was starting to come back in, but now, we’re taking the two-tone look and making it more seamless,” he said. He also noted that the gray look on youth is still a rebellious color, and the sun-kissed blonde remains popular; adding that “bronde,” or a brown-to-blond look is still a trend.


While sun-kissed blonde remains a signature shade, Canalé shared a tip about lightening the look of dark brown hair, as well. He described how hair around the edges of the hairline and forehead tend to hold color more densely and noted that colorists can make hair a lighter shade of brown around the hairline to add depth and give brunettes a lighter look as well.


Regardless of the color, brightness and gloss are critical. However, while Canalé agreed that conditioners with silicones are very glossy, he did not recommend them for finishing products, noting that his new product line contained antioxidants that keep the oxidation from overtaking the color in the hair.


“We stand behind the belief that the ingredients in our collection support the integrity of the hair, from the inside out and from the outside in,” he maintained.


Healthy, Shiny Hair


Everyone wants healthy, shiny hair, Canalé noted. He maintains that his new system was made for the home user and is very user friendly.


“It is simple, clean and pure,” said Canalé, citing his collaboration with Dr. David Silver MD, the chief financial officer at Canale Enterprises, and a practicing board-certified internist and rheumatologist, who formulated the products. “The formulation contains antioxidants in both the shampoo and the conditioner, and the line was created to help restore the vitamins to the hair that have been taken away by time.”


Canalé insisted that his line is “probably the newest thing in improving hair color.”


Hair color is impacted by time, chemical wear and tear, and sun damage, he explained.


“I have made a follicle absorption line to build the integrity from the root out. We are replacing the vitamins that have been taken away from sun and wear and tear, and infusing the hair with avocado oil, lavender, and beta-carotene,” Canalé added.


The new three-product collection is hypoallergenic, dermatologist-approved, paraben-free and gluten-free. Canalé Cleanse Restoring Shampoo is designed to cleanse and restore the hair without stripping the color. It is infused with natural cleansing agents and formulated to bring out your best color, protect the hair from exterior aggressions, and extend the longevity of the color pigment. It contains a blend of lavender oil, shea butter and grapefruit extract, with scents of bamboo, jasmine and oriental woods; it is keratin safe, reduces oxidation and keeps brightness. The shampoo retails for $45.


Canalé Nourish Hair Foam contains a revitalizing blend of antioxidants and vitamins that promote natural hair growth and stronger hold before and after coloring your hair. Its blend of vitamins, including biotin, niacinamide, beta-carotene and ginger root extract help improve fullness, cuticle integrity and strength, while improving color hold. It is designed for use once or twice weekly, and should be applied to a clean scalp after shampooing the hair and before conditioner is applied. It retails for $42.


Canalé Soften Softening Conditioner blends natural oils and antioxidants to restore luster and shine, reduce breakage, and bring color to life. Key nutrients coat the hair shaft to improve quality and overall health of the hair, while protecting hair from sun and chemical damage. It contains a blend of tuberose oil, sea whip extract, aspalathus linearis leaf extract and olive fruit extract and retails for $49. Each of the products is available at Canalé salons and online at: www.canaleproducts.com.


The line will expand through the summer and into the fall, as well as Spring 2018.