• Login
    • Join
  • Subscribe Free
    • Magazine
    • eNewsletter
    Checkout
    • Magazine
    • News
    • Formulary
    • Exclusives
    • Top Companies
    • Raw Materials
    • End-User
    • Packaging
    • Directories
    • Events
    • Jobs
    • More
  • Magazine
  • News
  • Formulary
  • Exclusives
  • Top Companies
  • Raw Materials
  • End-User
  • Packaging
  • Directories
  • Events
  • Jobs
  • Current / Back Issues
    Features
    Columns
    Editorial
    Digital Edition
    eNewsletter Archive
    Our Team
    Editorial Guidelines
    Subscribe Now
    Advertise Now
    Top Features
    Help for Indies

    The Future Has Arrived

    Shape It Up

    Stepping into the Spotlight for 2021

    The Independent Beauty Association Supports Sensible Reform
    Online Exclusives
    Association News
    Breaking News
    Financial News
    Industry News
    International
    Marketing News
    New Products
    News Front
    Packaging News
    Patents
    Personnel
    Regulations
    Snapshots
    Top News
    Live From Shows
    Top News
    ACI Urges Senate to Approve Regan as EPA Administrator

    Estée Lauder Signs Actress Ana de Armas

    GUM Recalls Oral Spray

    Sephora To Open More Stores in 2021

    Clean Beauty Collective Supports Earth Day Initiative
    Blog
    Online Exclusives
    Infographics
    Podcasts
    Whitepapers
    Videos
    Expert's Opinion
    HappiTV
    eBook
    Surveys
    International Top 30 Report
    Top 50 Report
    Top Companies
    40. Turtle Wax

    43. Parlux Fragrances

    42. Seventh Generation, Inc.

    4. Kao

    41. Hydroxatone
    Actives
    Functional Ingredients
    Pigments
    Polymers
    Preservatives
    Surfactants

    Freckle Pens Are Spot On!

    Are Chemists the Rock Stars of Beauty?

    Sales More Than Double at Madison Reed

    Eucerin Launches Sun Protection Formula

    What You're Reading on Happi.com
    Air Care/Environmental Fragrance
    AP/Deo
    Color Cosmetics
    Disinfectants
    Fine Fragrance
    Hair Care
    Household Cleaning
    I&I Marketplace
    Laundry Care
    Oral Care
    OTC/Medicated
    Packaging
    Personal Cleansers
    Skin Care
    Sun Care
    Testing

    ACI Urges Senate to Approve Regan as EPA Administrator

    Estée Lauder Signs Actress Ana de Armas

    Shelf Present

    GUM Recalls Oral Spray

    Sephora To Open More Stores in 2021
    Lab Equipment
    Mixing
    Packaging
    Testing

    Burt’s Bees Outlines New Sustainability Goals

    Secret, Old Spice Add Refillable Deo Packaging

    Estée Lauder Travel Retail's Sustainability Goals

    Ross Introduces Double Cone Tumble Blender

    Happi Talks: Overnight Labels
    Contract Manufacturing / Private Label Directory
    Buyer's Guide
    Add New Company
    Corporate Profiles
    International Buyers Guide Companies
    BotanicalsPlus

    Siltech Corporation

    Centerchem Inc

    Praan Naturals

    KLK OLEO
    Live From Shows
    Meetings
    Webinars
    Snapshots
    • Magazine
      • Current / Back Issues
      • Features
      • Editorial
      • Columns
      • Digital Edition
      • eNewsletter Archive
      • Subscribe Now
      • Advertise Now
    • Breaking News
    • Formulary
    • Directories
      • Buyer's Guide
      • Contract Manufacturing / Private Label Directory
      • Corporate Profiles
      • Add Your Company
    • Raw Materials
      • Actives
      • Functional Ingredients
      • Pigments
      • Polymers
      • Preservatives
      • Surfactants
    • End-User
      • Air Care/Environmental Fragrance
      • AP/Deo
      • Color Cosmetics
      • Disinfectants
      • Fine Fragrance
      • Hair Care
      • Household Cleaning
      • I&I Marketplace
      • Laundry Care
      • Oral Care
      • OTC/Medicated
      • Packaging
      • Personal Cleansers
      • Skin Care
      • Sun Care
      • Testing
    • Packaging
      • Lab Equipment
      • Mixing
      • Packaging
      • Testing
    • Top Companies
      • International Top 30 Report
      • Top 50 Report
    • Online Exclusives
    • Experts Opinion
    • Slideshows
    • HappiTV
    • Videos
    • Podcasts
    • eBook
    • Infographics
    • Blog
    • Whitepapers
    • Surveys
      • R & D Salary Survey
      • Sales & Marketing Salary Survey
    • Job Banks
    • Events
      • Industry Events
      • Live from show Events
      • Webinars
    • About Us
      • About Us
      • Contact Us
      • Advertise With Us
      • Privacy Policy
      • Terms of Use
    Formulator Forum

    A Natural Alternative To Hair Relaxers

    ...

    Related CONTENT
    • The Cure for Lip Care
    • Formulating for Inclusion
    • Burt’s Bees Outlines New Sustainability Goals
    • E-Help for Textured Hair
    • Kao Launches Wakati Line For Natural Texture
    Jari Alander, AAK Personal Care05.01.17
    The growing trend for natural hair care products not only relates to consumer demand for more sustainable, ethically-sourced ingredients, but also encompasses a shift toward embracing natural hair texture. As a result, there has been a dramatic decline in the sales of relaxers in the ethnic hair care sector as women opt to go natural and learn to love their curls. Yet, the decline in popularity of relaxers is driving an increase in sales of customized styling and conditioning products for waves, curls, kinks and coils, suggesting that the natural movement is here to stay and one that offers new opportunities for formulators.


    What a Curl Needs


    Curl control, moisturization, prevention of hair breakage and frizz are the primary issues to address when formulating products specifically for textured hair. Tightly coiled hair has elliptical cross-section diameters changing along the hair fiber length as it twists.


    The number of cuticle layers along the hair shaft also varies, with weak spots created at the point of curvature where there are fewer layers. The cuticle consists of a number of tightly overlapping layers coated with 18-MEA, a hydrophobic lipid which minimizes the amount of water going in and out of the underlying cortex and plays an important role in protecting hair. Raised cuticles and loss of the lipid covering results in negatively charged “weathered” hair, characterized by tangling, frizz, breakage and loss of curl structure.


    Curl geometry means that the helical configuration creates areas where the overlapping cuticle layers are unable to close, making textured hair more porous and vulnerable. Textured hair is also prone to dryness as natural lubricating oils produced by sebaceous glands in the scalp can’t “slide” down the shaft to reach the ends because of the bends and kinks.  


    Conditioning product efficacy is determined by the formula’s ability to neutralize the negative charge of damaged hair, as well as reduce static, and smooth and flatten the cuticle. Primary conditioning agents are positively-charged molecules and include cationic surfactants, polymers and amino functional silicones.


    The negative charge of the hair is attracted to the positively-charged molecules resulting in good deposition on the strands, particularly on the more negatively-charged damaged areas. Secondary conditioning agents include emollients and oils, occlusive agents and humectants to lubricate and reduce friction between hair fibers to give a smooth feel and improve combability.


    Shea-based Emollients


    Shea offers an excellent sustainable, biodegradable alternative to synthetic ingredients as secondary conditioners in hair care products. Shea butter has long been used as a natural hair emollient by women in rural African communities. Shea butter is massaged into the scalp or used to coat hair strands to help seal in moisture and protect against the hot, dry climate. Consumers seeking products for textured hair rank ingredients as the top purchasing consideration with 54% citing shea as the most desirable, according to Phoenix Marketing International.


    Lipex SheaLiquid TR (INCI EU: Butyrospermum parkii butter (or) Butyrospermum parkii oil) offers a functional alternative to other widely used benchmark plant oils for conditioners, such as argan oil or solid shea butters. A versatile, easy-to-use fluid, shea oil contains a high content of triterpene esters and contributes excellent anti-frizz properties, moisturization and glide. It gives rich emolliency and can be used in higher concentrations without increasing viscosity, making it ideal for providing body and texture to conditioning treatments and curl defining styling formulations. It also benefits from a fully traceable supply chain, originating from the Kolo Nafaso direct sourcing program run by AAK in Burkina Faso.


    Wet Comb Force Reduction


    In a recent independent study, Lipex SheaLight (INCI EU: Shea butter ethyl esters) and Lipex L’sens (INCI EU: Soybean glycerides (and) butyrospermum parkii butter unsaponifiables), alone and in combination, were shown to outperform both synthetic and placebo benchmarks in reducing wet combing force reduction, making them an excellent choice for formulating rinse-off conditioners for textured hair.


    In addition to excellent wet combing force reduction, Lipex L’sens provides body to both hair and formulation. A highly polar, semi-solid emollient, it offers lanolin-like properties with respect to touch, structure, gloss, film-building and water-absorbing capacities, which can be of particular benefit when formulating specialized styling and treatment products for textured hair. In contrast, Lipex SheaLight is suitable for cold processing, sprayable and clear styling formulations, providing a low viscosity, lightweight alternative to non-volatile silicone oils, mineral oils and synthetic esters.


    Vegetable Oils


    The hydrophobic properties of triglyceride oils make them particularly useful as conditioning and protecting agents in hair care formulations, as they can improve combability, enhance sensory properties and add shine. For optimal results, it is often advantageous to use a combination of ingredients. For example, a low-viscous, high-spreading shea butter ester helps distribute conditioning oils over the hair surface while a more polar ingredient, such as Lipex L’sens, will improve wet combing properties and give the necessary adhesion to the hair strands to combat frizz.


    When selecting ingredients, stability and composition will always be the most important factors for consideration, but increasingly, sustainability and environmental properties are playing a role in driving choice, resulting in the rise in the number of tropical oils being used. However, for functionality, stability, mildness and sustainable credentials, shea butter and shea oils remain excellent options and should always be considered.


    Jari Alander
    AAK Personal Care

    Jari Alander is currently the director of customer innovation at AAK Personal Care, managing AAK’s technical customer interactions within personal care applications. He’s a physical chemist by training, specializing in lipid chemistry and applications since 1985.


    After having worked with food applications, including dairy, chocolate and nutritional products, Jari has devoted his time to personal care applications since 2003, working in new product development, claims substantiation and application of AAK’s emollient technologies.


    More info: aakpersonalcare.com, Email: lipid@aak.com
    Related Searches
    • it
    • women
    • food
    • formula
    Related Knowledge Center
    • Hair Care
    • Functional Ingredients
    Suggested For You
    The Cure for Lip Care The Cure for Lip Care
    Formulating for Inclusion Formulating for Inclusion
    Burt’s Bees Outlines New Sustainability Goals Burt’s Bees Outlines New Sustainability Goals
    E-Help for Textured Hair E-Help for Textured Hair
    Kao Launches Wakati Line For Natural Texture Kao Launches Wakati Line For Natural Texture
    Garnier Taps Drew Barrymore for Campaign Garnier Taps Drew Barrymore for Campaign
    P&G Marks Black History Month with Crowns of Heritage Campaign P&G Marks Black History Month with Crowns of Heritage Campaign
    More Than a Mouthful More Than a Mouthful
    Ipsy Adds New Personal Care Brand Ipsy Adds New Personal Care Brand
    Curlsmith Closes Series A Funding Curlsmith Closes Series A Funding
    Seiso JBeauty Launches Ceramide Products Seiso JBeauty Launches Ceramide Products
    Operation CBDeceit: FTC Crackdown on CBD Products Operation CBDeceit: FTC Crackdown on CBD Products
    Bliss Launches Holiday Products Bliss Launches Holiday Products
    Goop Unveils Clean Lip Balm Goop Unveils Clean Lip Balm
    C’est Moi Expands Into Target in 2021 C’est Moi Expands Into Target in 2021

    Related Formulator Forum

    • Functional Ingredients | Personal Cleansers | Surfactants | Testing

      Soap & The Virus

      Are all formulas the same?
      Ricardo Diez, PhD 08.03.20

    • Actives | Functional Ingredients | Polymers | Sun Care
      Aesthetically-Pleasing Sun Care Formulas

      Aesthetically-Pleasing Sun Care Formulas

      Marisa Plescia of Bell International Laboratories offers some advice.
      Marisa Plescia, Bell International Laboratories 07.01.20

    • Functional Ingredients | Polymers | Skin Care
      The Biopolymers Texture Triangle

      The Biopolymers Texture Triangle

      A creative toolkit for skin care formulations using naturally-derived polymers.
      Dr. Richard Giles, Sylvain Lataste and Jens Müller, Nouryon 09.02.19


    • Functional Ingredients | Hair Care | Personal Cleansers | Skin Care | Surfactants

      Natural and Palm-Free Personal Care Formulas

      ...
      Dr. Barbara Olioso, TheGreenChemistConsultancy.com 02.01.18

    • Functional Ingredients | Skin Care | Sun Care

      The Value of Fair Trade Certification

      ...
      Scott Meadows, Concentrated Aloe Corporation 12.01.16

    • Functional Ingredients | Skin Care

      The Challenges of Formulating Natural Products

      ...
      Jarek Tabor, AAK Personal Care 11.02.16


    • Functional Ingredients | Polymers

      How to Select Emollients For Stable Emulsions

      ...
      Anna Howe, Evonik Corporation 11.03.14

    Trending
    • When The FTC Comes Calling...
    • Eucerin Launches Sun Protection Formula
    • Planting Roots
    • MAC Appoints SVP, Global Marketing
    • Are Chemists The Rock Stars Of Beauty?
    Breaking News
    • ACI Urges Senate to Approve Regan as EPA Administrator
    • Estée Lauder Signs Actress Ana de Armas
    • GUM Recalls Oral Spray
    • Sephora To Open More Stores in 2021
    • Clean Beauty Collective Supports Earth Day Initiative
    View Breaking News >
    CURRENT ISSUE

    February 2021

    • Help for Indies
    • Trade Association Directory 2021
    • The Future Has Arrived
    • Shape It Up
    • View More >

    Cookies help us to provide you with an excellent service. By using our website, you declare yourself in agreement with our use of cookies.
    You can obtain detailed information about the use of cookies on our website by clicking on "More information”.

    • About Us
    • Privacy Policy
    • Terms And Conditions
    • Contact Us

    follow us

    Subscribe
    Nutraceuticals World

    Latest Breaking News From Nutraceuticals World

    Preliminary Study Links Markers of Impaired Bone Health to Vegan Diet
    Refined Grains Linked to Heart Attack Risk, Early Death
    Kappa Bioscience Extends Research Partnership For COVID-19 Research
    Coatings World

    Latest Breaking News From Coatings World

    Nippon Paint Marine Wins Korea Export Award
    Universal Display Corporation, PPG Expand Global Production of UniversalPHOLED Materials
    PPG Introduces Premium Iso-free Primer Surfacer, Catalyst
    Medical Product Outsourcing

    Latest Breaking News From Medical Product Outsourcing

    January AI Raises $8.8 Million in New Funding
    FDA Clears Ava Fertility Tracking Wearable Device
    First Patient in Europe Treated With Diamondback 360 Coronary Orbital Atherectomy System
    Contract Pharma

    Latest Breaking News From Contract Pharma

    Spark Therapeutics Appoints CTO
    Cryoport Launches ESG Program
    U.S. Govt. Purchases 100k Doses of Lilly's COVID-19 Antibody Cocktail
    Beauty Packaging

    Latest Breaking News From Beauty Packaging

    The Top Beauty Products of 2021, According to HelloGiggles
    Estée Lauder Taps Ana de Armas as Global Brand Ambassador
    Sephora Announces Significant Expansion
    Happi

    Latest Breaking News From Happi

    ACI Urges Senate to Approve Regan as EPA Administrator
    Estée Lauder Signs Actress Ana de Armas
    GUM Recalls Oral Spray
    Ink World

    Latest Breaking News From Ink World

    Etiflex Enters New Markets with Nilpeter FA-22 Installation
    Hydrocarbon Solvents Market to Surpass $8.1 Billion by 2030
    Marshall & Bruce Adds Koenig & Bauer Rapida 106 41-Inch Seven-Color Press
    Label & Narrow Web

    Latest Breaking News From Label & Narrow Web

    FTA converts Forum & INFOFLEX to virtual events
    Xeikon launches two new digital label printing presses
    UFlex adds capacity in packaging films
    Nonwovens Industry

    Latest Breaking News From Nonwovens Industry

    Texas Medical Technology Partners with My Protect Kit
    Mexico City Single-Use Plastics Ban Leads to Tampon Shortage
    Believe Diapers Launch in U.S.
    Orthopedic Design & Technology

    Latest Breaking News From Orthopedic Design & Technology

    Fusion Robotics Receives FDA Clearance for Spinal Navigation and Robotics System
    Kaia Health Unveils Next-Gen Complete MSK Care Solutions
    First Implantation of CTL Amedica's Minimally Invasive Flex Tower
    Printed Electronics Now

    Latest Breaking News From Printed Electronics Now

    Comercial Kywi Improves Customer Service, Front-Store Operations with Zebra Mobile Solution
    Global Printed Circuit Board Market Projected to Reach $69.32 Billion by 2027
    Global Smart Glass Market to Register 6.8% CAGR Between 2021-28: Grand View Research

    Copyright © 2021 Rodman Media. All rights reserved. Use of this constitutes acceptance of our privacy policy The material on this site may not be reproduced, distributed, transmitted, or otherwise used, except with the prior written permission of Rodman Media.

    AD BLOCKER DETECTED

    Our website is made possible by displaying online advertisements to our visitors.
    Please consider supporting us by disabling your ad blocker.


    FREE SUBSCRIPTION Already a subscriber? Login