Dr. Jart+ launched the first cosmeceutical BB Cream in 2007, catapulting the BB craze into the US skin care market. Since then, the concept of facial cosmetics has blossomed way beyond the basic makeup item. And the numbers prove it—the facial cosmetics category rose 5.9% to $2.1 billion, according to data from Information Resources Inc. (IRI) for total US multi-outlet (supermarkets, drugstores, mass market retailers, military commissaries and select club and dollar retail chains) for the 52 weeks ended April 16, 2017.
In this sector, there were gains across the board with the exclusion of blush (sales dropping 5.7% to $148.8 million) and bronzers (slipping 2.6% to $57.3 million). Foundation sales rose 3.4% to $1.02 billion while concealers jumped 9% to $281.9 million. Powder sales climbed 3.7% to $384.6 million. Makeup combos in facial cosmetics increased 7.9% to $59 million and body accessory sales surged 51.2% to $159.7 million (somehow they are counted as facial products as they work like makeup; for example, Sally Hansen Airbrush Legs Body Spray or Maybelline Facestudio Master Strobing for all over).
Facial cosmetics are also gaining from “athleisure,” according to industry experts. Active wear today is no longer exclusive to athletic apparel; recent growth in key makeup categories coincides with the rising popularity of makeup as a new workout essential. Prestige makeup sales increased by 11% to $7.6 billion in the 12 months ending February 2017—with foundation sales rising 8% during this period, driven by longwear foundation and those with added benefits. Longwear foundation sales increased 13%, while basic foundation declined. Concealer sales increased 17% and powder by 7%, the latter which has now surpassed blush sales, according to The NPD Group.
“In today’s image-driven society, the bar has been raised to maintain a perfected ‘natural’ appearance virtually around the clock,” said Karen Grant, global beauty industry analyst, The NPD Group. “With heightened focus on appearance, the door opens for manufacturers and retailers to fill the need for consumers seeking increased usage of beauty products that can hold up to the rigors of our active lives, including a workout, to look good before, during and after working out.”
Mally Roncal, founder of Mally Beauty, New York, is excited about a return to illumination when it comes to facial cosmetics. She told Happi, “As a celebrity makeup artist, I have always loved creating an illuminated complexion on my clients through strobing and highlighting. For a while, matte was all the rage. Matte complexion, matte lips, matte eyes. I prefer to focus on one asset when jumping on the matte trend like a strong matte lip or matte eye shadow look with luminous glowing skin. I am so glad to see a shift toward complexion products that create the look of natural, clean skin with a ‘lit from within’ glow!”
According to Ginger King, industry expert and president of Grace Kingdom Beauty, New York, expect to see more “nutri-cosmetics” on the rise.
“Anything edible and sustainable will have a place in cosmetics,” she told Happi. “Additionally, due to retailers like Sephora, anything helps with social impact such as offering jobs to the community when you use certain ingredients will be an important factor. In fact, this was how argan oil got traction in cosmetic industry.”
In response to a thriving marketplace, Happi rounded up the newest entries into the facial cosmetic category for the season. Here’s a look at some leading launches spanning from prestige to mass.
Paul & Joe: Gel Foundation
The new water-based Gel Foundation N is a powerful combination of marine collagen, which contains amino and hyaluronic acids specifically formulated to penetrate the skin, and theanine to retain a high level of moisture regardless of environmental factors, to create a revolutionary foundation that clings tightly to the skin and has excellent moisturizing properties, according to the company. Coverage has been enhanced by improvements to the gel and powder quality without compromising the hydrating texture unique to gel foundation.
Huda Beauty: 3D Highlighter
Introducing a four-step foolproof highlighting method that allows you to customize the depth of your glow with buildable layers to slay your highlight game. The secret behind the 3D Highlighter Palette is the Melted Strobe formula—a pearlescent creamy base enriched with shea butter that will smooth the skin to create a flawless canvas for layering powder highlights and maximize glow intensity.
Laura Geller: Easy Illuminating Stick in Diamond Dust
One’s best features glow with Laura Geller Easy Illuminating Stick in Diamond Dust. Long-wearing and oil-free, this skin-conditioning, moisturizing illuminating stick can be worn on bare skin or over foundation to illuminate with light-reflecting optics. Lychee extract improves skin hydration while protecting against free-radical damage.
Mally Beauty: Flawless Finish Transforming Effect Foundation
The new Flawless Finish Transforming Effect Foundation is a breakthrough in complexion perfection and has the consistency of a dense, creamy “cheesecake” that liquefies on contact to create smooth skin. This innovative formula instantly melts onto the skin when applied, forming a weightless layer of coverage that’s infused with oxygen water for all-day hydration in an airtight compact.
Amorepacific: Resort Collection
This trio of skin-saving SKUs offers weightless, undetectable protection against both damaging UV rays and heat-aging. Potent Asian botanical extracts nourish and comfort sun exposed skin for a healthy, glowing appearance all year-round. Products include the Sun Protection Cushion, Broad Spectrum SPF 30+, Sun Protection Stick, Broad Spectrum SPF 50+ and Sun Protection Mist, Broad Spectrum SPF 30.
Rimmel London: Insta Flawless Skin Tint
This facial cosmetic is billed as more than just a primer. The complexion enhancer helps perfect and protect skin, visually erasing signs of fatigue and giving a natural-looking radiant glow. The ultra-lightweight moisturizing formula leaves skin hydrated for up to 24 hours while SPF 15 helps to protect against UV rays.
Mineral Fusion: Liquid Mineral Foundation
Further enhance a natural complexion with this medium-coverage formula that blends easily for naturally flawless skin that won’t feel heavy or greasy, according to the company. As an added bonus, this skin-soothing liquid foundation is formulated with gentle ingredients and the natural UV protection of minerals, making it great for use on all skin types and tones. Also, this foundation was recently verified by EWG.
Milk Makeup: Flex Concealer
This new flexible full coverage concealer bends with skin (never creases or cakes) to conceal imperfections, combat dark circles and minimize the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, said the company. The formulation is infused with blue lotus to moisturize and chamomile to calm skin.
Ittse Cosmetics: Incandescent Light Diffusers
Now one can add in the essential priming step to their favorite palette for a well-rounded beauty routine in one spot. These light diffusers instantly blur pores, fine lines and imperfections with this tinted complexion primer. This innovative formula is cyclopentasiloxane-free while antioxidants help to protect and nourish skin. Wear alone or under foundation for a soft-focus finish and effortless refinement.
Colorescience: Mineral Corrector Palette SPF 20
This sleek palette from Colorescience—a must to display on the vanity—comes with five blendable, skin-neutralizing shades to neutralize red, blue, and yellow tones. It delivers SPF 20 via titanium dioxide (21.2%) and zinc oxide (12.1%) to naturally block the sun. This kit is also dermatologist tested, paraben free and water resistant for up to 80 minutes.
CoverGirl: Outlast All-Day Stay Fabulous 3-in-1 Foundation
To achieve a smooth, flawless matte look that lasts all day, this all-in-one foundation combines the touch-proof benefits of a primer, foundation and concealer in one easy step. The foundation provides long-lasting full coverage and includes broad spectrum SPF 20.
MAC Cosmetics: Pro Longwear Nourishing Waterproof Foundation
Now part of the permanent collection, this breakthrough best-seller at MAC features an enhanced waterproof formula that wears for an unprecedented 24 hours. For a sweat and humidity-resistant velvety matte finish, try MAC Pro Longwear Powder/Pressed, which promises zero shine for up to 12 hours in any climate, said the company.