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    Features

    New Color Cosmetics Ingredients

    Here are ingredients introduced by industry suppliers during the past year. Contact suppliers directly for more info.

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    08.01.17
    Centerchem, Inc.
    Norwalk, CT
    Phone: 203-822-9800
    Email: Cosmetics@centerchem.com
    Website: www.centerchem.com

    Aurasphere A
    INCI: Isododecane, adipic acid/neopentyl glycol crosspolymer, lauryl dimethicone, hydrogenated polyisobutene
    Suggested Use Levels: 5-20%
    Applications: Makeup, skin care
    Comments: Aurasphere A is an anhydrous complex developed from the technology behind Penstia Powder, dispersed in a moisturizing gel base. In addition to line blurring and wrinkle filling properties, this unique ingredient imparts long wearing properties, a novel sensory feel and a silicone cushion to your products without the use of cyclomethicone. Aurasphere A is easily emulsified and is compatible with organic esters and solvents.

    Beauactive
    INCI: Hydroxystearic acid
    Suggested Use Levels: Up to 1%
    Applications: Makeup, skin care
    Comments: Beauactive is a potent hydroxystearic acid of high purity which is manufactured using green technology. In vitro studies have shown that Beauactive activates the master cell regulator PPARα which triggers multi-target effects for better skin. Upon UVB stress, Beauactive hinders the production of both sunburn cells and the stress marker p53 which can increase skin pigmentation. Beauactive also helps the skin to make more collagen, a key structural factor in the prevention of conspicuous facial pores. In vivo studies have confirmed the outstanding efficacy of Beauactive which results in a visible reduction of conspicuous facial pores and age spots, giving skin a younger, improved appearance after the age of 30.


    Chemyunion
    Sorocaba - São Paulo - Brazil (facility)
    Phone: +55 15 2102 2000
    Email: contato@chemyunion.com
    Website: chemyunion.com

    Revinage
    INCI: Bidens pilosa extract (and) elaeis guineensis (palm) oil (and) gossypium herbaceum (cotton) seed oil (and) linum usitatissimum (linseed) seed oil
    Suggested Use Levels: 1-2%
    Applications: Anti-aging vegetal ingredient. It can be used on facial and functional makeup products
    Comments: Revinage can be applied on different makeup products even on lipsticks where it increased the in vivo production of NMF (Natural Moisturizer Factors) in more than 90% in just 2 hours after application. Moreover, it upregulated ceramide-3 and cholesterol production being an excellent alternative for flaking and dry lips.


    Lubrizol Advanced Materials
    Cleveland, OH
    Phone: 800-379-5389
    Email: personalcare@lubrizol.com
    Website: www.lubrizol.com

    Avalure Flex-6 polymer
    INCI: Polyurethane-62 and trideceth-6
    Application: Skin, sun care, color cosmetics
    Suggested Use Levels: 0.3-1.5%
    Comments: With its wide pigment compatibility properties, Avalure Flex-6 allows you to create and stabilize O/W and W/O color cosmetic formulation with comfortable wear, a light, powdery afterfeel and uniform distribution on skin leading to brighter color intensity.

    Schercemol CATC ester
    INCI: Cocoyl adipic acid/trimethylolpropane copolymer
    Application: Skin, sun care, color cosmetics
    Suggested Use levels: 1-15%
    Comments: Schercemol CATC ester offers the comfort and targeted delivery of a heavy ester with the high slip and low tack of a light ester. It is recommended to provide substantivity, targeted delivery, water and transfer resistance in skin care, sun care and color cosmetic applications.



    Micro Powders, Inc.
    Tarrytown, NY
    Phone: 914-793-4058
    Email: mpi@micropowders.com
    Website: MPIpersonalcare.com

    Naturesoft 800
    INCI: Cellulose
    Suggested Use Levels: 1.0–10.0 %
    Applications: Face powders, eye shadows, foundations, eyeliners, cleansers, lotions, creams, mascara, skin care preparations, lipstick, hot pours, AP/DO, pencils and sticks.
    Comments:  Naturesoft 800 is an ultrafine cellulose powder designed to provide improved sensorial benefits, unsurpassed dry binding, long wear and smooth application. All of these benefits are now available in an all-natural, white fine powder.

    Naturescrub H20
    INCI: Hydrogenated castor oil
    Suggested Use Levels: 1.0–15.0%
    Applications: Exfoliating scrub soaps (solid and liquid), facial and body scrubs, foot scrubs, creams, lotions, liquids, gels
    Comments: Naturescrubs are exfoliants produced from natural based waxes. Naturescrubs are an effective natural alternative to microplastic beads. Their irregular particle shape will provide a polyethylene-like exfoliating agent without irritation to the skin. Naturescrubs come in three mesh sizes, H14, H20 and H50, and are based on hydrogenated natural castor oil wax.

    Naturescrub H50
    INCI: Hydrogenated castor oil
    Suggested Use Levels: 1.0–15.0%
    Applications: Exfoliating scrub soaps (solid and liquid), facial and body scrubs, foot scrubs, creams, lotions, liquids, gels
    Comments: Naturescrubs are exfoliants produced from natural based waxes. Naturescrubs are an effective natural alternative to microplastic beads. Their irregular particle shape will provide a polyethylene-like exfoliating agent without irritation to the skin. Naturescrubs come in three mesh sizes, H14, H20 and H50, and are based on hydrogenated natural castor oil wax.


    Sandream Impact LLC
    Fairfield, NJ
    Phone:  973-882-3077
    Email:  info@sandreamimpact.com
    Website:  www.sandreamimpact.com

    Fiesta Velvet Cabernet FCF-VC
    INCI: Synthetic fluorphlogopite, iron oxides
    Suggested Use Levels:  Up to 50%
    Applications:  Lipsticks/glosses, eyeshadows, blush, nail
    Comments:  Fiesta Velvet Cabernet provides superior coverage due to its fine particle size (1-10µm), luxurious feel and versatility across multiple makeup applications.  Formulators may use as little as 1-2% in nail lacquer or upwards of 50% to achieve the most opaque pressed powders.

    Fiesta Corona Sunset Orange FCF-SO
    INCI: Synthetic fluorphlogopite, iron oxides, titanium dioxide
    Suggested Use Levels:  Up to 50%
    Applications: Lipsticks, lipglosses, eyeshadows, blush, nail
    Comments:  Fiesta Corona Sunset Orange provides superior coverage due to its fine particle size (1-10µm), luxurious feel and versatility across multiple make-up applications.  Formulators may use as little as 1-2% in nail lacquer or upwards of 50% to achieve the most opaque pressed powders.

    Diamond Silk Red Gold GVL-RG
    INCI: Al, Ca, Na silicate, titanium dioxide, iron oxides, tin oxide
    Suggested Use Levels:  Up to 30%
    Applications:  Lipsticks/glosses, eyeshadows, blush, body shimmers, hair care, nail
    Comments:  Diamond Silk Red Gold provides beautiful and brilliant optical effects due to its composition and particle size (10-100µm).  Transform a variety of makeup mediums utilizing this highly reflective glass-based pigment.



    Sensient Cosmetic Technologies
    South Plainfield, NJ
    Phone:  908-757-4500
    Email: cosmeticsales@sensient.com
    Website: cosmeticpulse.sensient-cosmetics.com/

    PHY Surface treated pigments
    INCI: CI (and) phytic acid (and) sodium hydroxide
    Suggested Use Levels: 0.01-40%
    Applications: Face makeup, eye makeup, skin care
    Comments: PHY surface treated pigments are a new range of natural pigment surface treatment based on phytic acid extracted from rice. This hydrophilic technology allows the easy incorporation of pigments in O/W makeup formulations, even after emulsification, without grinding or any tedious high shear mixing. The excellent compatibility in the water phase avoids viscosity build up and can lead to new types of innovative formulations that were not accessible to formulators before.

    Lumisens CV10 AS Pigments
    INCI: Polymethyl methacrylate (and) triethoxycaprylylsilane (and) pigment
    Suggested Use Levels: 0.01–40%
    Applications: Face makeup, eye makeup, skin care
    Comments: Lumisens are PMMA beads coated with AS treated pigments. The new combination creates composites pigments that blend effortlessly onto skin, while providing the user with a unique sensorial experience due to the high softness of these pigments. The coverage is more uniform and the skin appears more radiant.

    Sensibead SI 175 and Sensibead SI 320
    INCI: Silica
    Suggested Use Levels: 0.5–30%
    Applications: Face makeup, eye makeup, skin care
    Comments: Sensibead SI 175 and Sensibead SI 320 are porous spherical ultra-fine silica beads that offer an excellent alternative to traditional PMMA beads for makeup and skin care formulations, while providing outstanding feel properties and soft focus benefits. These natural beads are used to take cosmetic formulations to the next level of performance and sensoriality.



    Shin-Etsu Silicones of America
    Akron, OH
    Phone: 330-630-9860, 800-544-1745
    E-mail: First initial last name@shinetsusilicones.com  (e.g. cosmetics@shinetsusilicones.com)
    Website: www.Shinetsusilicones.com, www.silicones.jp

    X-22-6695B
    INCI: Jojoba oil (and) lauryl dimethicone/polyglycerin-3 crosspolymer
    Suggested Use Levels:  1.5-25%
    Applications: Face: illuminators, foundations, blushers, BB/CC cream; Lips: liquid lipstain and creams, lipsticks; Eyes: eyeshadows, mascaras, eyeliners; Brows: brow gels and creams
    Comments: X-22-6695B is a PEG-free, high shine, organic compatible, self-emulsifying elastomer gel swollen in jojoba oil.  The product is derived from natural ingredients.
    X-22-6695B can be used alone as a sensory enhancer, a thickening agent for oils and emulsions, or as an emulsifier.  The active elastomer gel has an innovative 3-dimethional structure that the silicone polymer network is crosslinked with non-PEG, polyglycerin groups and additionally with grafted alkyl (C12) groups.  The grafted alkyl groups allow the polymer swell in organic carriers and esters. Jojoba oil carrier further expands the compatibility to include more polar oils. 

    Like KSG-840, X-22-6695B shares many of the similar features and benefits such as stabilizing high internal phase emulsions with large droplet size, forming quick-water-breaking emulsions to deliver the cream-to-water transforming textures. The high shine nature of X-22-6695B makes it uniquely suitable for high shine lip products both in an anhydrous and an emulsion format. 

    Additionally, it’s an ideal ingredient for facial illuminators and eye shadows. The formulated products are rich, moisturizing and with exceptional skin feel. Ambient process is the norm when ingredients do not require heat.  Low energy process is preferred provided there is good mixing; low energy homogenization is acceptable but not necessary.

    TSPL-30-TMF
    INCI:  Methyl trimethicone (and) trimethylsiloxysilylcarbamoyl pullulan
    Suggested Use Levels:  3-30%
    Applications: Face: facial illuminators, foundations, BB/CC cream; Eyes: eye shadows, mascaras, lipsticks, blushers, pencils; Lips: lipsticks, liquid lipstain, lip creams, pencils; Brows: brow gels and creams; Nails
    Comments: TSPL-30-TMF is a 30% siliconized pullulan  film former solubilized in volatile silicone TMF-1.5 (Methyl Trimethicone).  It is a Shin-Etsu Silicone’s patented film former derived from GMO free source. Siliconization of Pullulan polymer renders the polymer water repellent and oil repellent, which are the key elements to achieve anti-transfer benefits for long wear lip applications.  The carrier TMF-1.5 provides fast drying and anti-tackiness during the drying phase.  Silicone moiety further modifies the film flexibility for comfort and non-tacky feel without compromising the adhesion properties.

    KP-550P
    INCI:  Isododecane (and) acrylates/dimethicone copolymer
    Suggested Use Levels: Emulsions:  2.5-10%; Anhydrous:  15-30%
    Applications: Face: facial illuminators, foundations, BB/CC cream; Eyes: eye shadows, mascaras, lipsticks, blushers, pencils; Lips: lipsticks, liquid lipstain, lip creams, pencils; Brows: brow gels and creams; Pigment Treatment
    Comments: Shin-Etsu KP-550P is a 40% actives, ultra-pure, silicone grafted silicone-acrylate film former in isododecane. It is designed to be a durable, smooth, and pliable film for applications requiring comfort, long lasting and non-transfer properties.  The acrylate backbone offers strong adhesion to substrates; the grafting polysiloxanes chains offer hydrophobicity, flexibility and non-tacky feel.  Upon drying, the film is water and sebum resistant.  The product is silicone and organic compatible.


    Sun Chemical Corporation
    Cincinnati, OH
    Phone: 800-543-2323
    Website:  www.sunchemical.com

    C91-6111 INTENZA Purple Reign
    INCI:  Synthetic fluorphlogopite (and) titanium dioxide (and) Red 6 Lake (and) Blue 1 Lake
    Suggested Use Levels: 2–20%
    Applications: Decorative cosmetic products.
    Comments: A new addition to Sun Chemical’s Intenza line of colorants, Purple Reign has a brilliant purple color. Intenza pigments are created through a unique combination of certified organic colorants and synthetic mica substrate that provide remarkable hue and chroma without the need for intense grinding and milling. Intenza pigments are free of additives and preservatives with heavy metal specifications that surpass global regulatory requirements.

    C91-4232 Intenza Cerise
    INCI:  Synthetic fluorphlogopite (and) titanium dioxide (and) Red 7 Lake
    Suggested Use Levels: 2–20%
    Applications: Decorative cosmetic products.
    Comments:  A new addition to Sun Chemical’s Intenza line of colorants, Cerise is an intense hot pink color. Intenza pigments are created through a unique combination of certified organic colorants and synthetic mica substrate that provide remarkable hue and chroma without the need for intense grinding and milling. Intenza pigments are free of additives and preservatives with heavy metal specifications that surpass global regulatory requirements.

    C91-4251 Intenza Blue Lagoon
    INCI:  Synthetic fluorphlogopite (and) titanium dioxide (and) Blue 1 Lake
    Suggested Use Levels: 2–20%
    Applications:  Decorative cosmetic products.
    Comments: A new addition to Sun Chemical’s Intenza line of colorants, Blue Lagoon is bright, clean shade of blue. Intenza pigments are created through a unique combination of certified organic colorants and synthetic mica substrate that provide remarkable hue and chroma without the need for intense grinding and milling. Intenza pigments are free of additives and preservatives with heavy metal specifications that surpass global regulatory requirements. 



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