If predictions hold, Brazil and Mexico will still trail China’s growth of 29.8%, but far outpace gains expected in Japan (5.36%) and the US (12.84%). Clearly, the US and Japan will remain huge markets, but some of the biggest opportunities will be in Latin America, where global value share is still small. For example, Brazil is the biggest market in the region, yet ranks just No. 8 in a global ranking of skin care markets, according to Brazilian Association of Cosmetic, Toiletry and Perfumery Industry (ABIHPEC).
Follow the Leaders
Brazil offers potential in dermocosmetics (as dermatologists prescribe such products to their patients), which is evident in L’Oréal’s success with its La Roche-Posay and Vichy brands, both of which rank among the top skin care brands. To reach even more consumers, one of La Roche-Posay´s best sellers, Redermic Hyalu C UV, which combines pure vitamin C and fragmented hyaluronic acid in a formula with anti-wrinkle action, was recently relaunched in a smaller package (15ml). Vichy’s Mineral Face Masks, including double glow peel face mask, mineral pore purifying clay mask and quenching mineral face mask, were repackaged in sachets to make them both more affordable and more familiar to consumers who often reach for sachets.
Mantecorp is another top-selling dermocosmetic brand. The line can be found in leading pharmacy chains all over Brazil, and belong to Hypermarcas, one of the largest pharmaceutical companies in the country. Mantecorp has several lines to treat different skin care needs. The Blancy line, for instance, is indicated for whitening skin and one of its latest launches is Blancy TX, which is specifically indicated for melasma. The Blancy TX formula is based on encapsulated tranexamic acid, a highly whitening active, associated with alfa arbutin and nano retinol. These ingredients promote whitening by reducing the inflammatory component of melasma (tranexamic acid) and acting on the stain formation stages (alpha arbutin). Nano retinol capsules are said to promote efficient and safe penetration across the skin.
According to Thais Sakuma, a dermatologist in the Cosmiatry Department of the Brazilian Society of Dermatology, when it comes to facial care, aside from acne control, anti-aging creams are the most preferred among Brazilians. Dr. Sakuma noted that Brazil’s racial makeup is quite diverse and that melasma is quite common, both of which make whitening products very popular among consumers.
Thanks to its Chronos brand, Natura is the leading domestic player in the facial skin care market. In addition to best-selling products which are segmented by age (30+, 45+, 60+ and even 70+), Chronos created super concentrates, which are designed to solve some of Brazilian consumers´ biggest complaints regarding the signs of aging. Wrinkle Reducing Elixir, for example, is for the crow´s feet, while Pro Firmness Intensive Serum, as the name implies, firms skin. All of the super concentrate formulas are said to be formulated with the highest concentrations of active ingredients in order to provide faster and more intensive results in three areas: repair existing signs, stimulate quicker response and prevent new signs of aging.
According to Mintel, global facial skin care product launches from January 2013 to September 2016, were .focused on boosting energy and/or reducing stress. During the period, detoxifying claims gained momentum as well. Now, brands are ramping up narratives for skin care products that includes anti-pollution claims, within a broader detox benefit. Detox is also being partnered with other benefits that either energize or calm the skin. With so many claims, today’s skin care ranges offer multifunctional benefits, all aimed at making the skin look and feel better.
Mintel also states that “what’s in” is more important than “what’s out” as 23% of global facial skin care products launched in January-September 2016 period had “free from” in the product description. According to Mintel, although many consumers still perceive these products as healthier and safer, they are becoming a bit overwhelmed. Moreover, consumers are unsure which free-from claims are the most important to ensure products are safe. Therefore, brands that can be transparent about the health benefits and quality of “what’s in” are set to do better than those emphasizing “what’s out.”
Mintel also recommends that brands must make micro-influencers a key part of digital marketing plans. These smaller groups of loyal followers, ranging from 1000 to 15,000 in number, can help sway the general public as micro-influencers are considered to be better informed and trusted by regular consumers.
The facial skin care category will see robust gains in Latin America. Market growth can be even stronger if brands can convince consumers to adopt regular skin care routines.
Daniela Ferreira is a marketing and communication professional in both consumer and B2B cosmetic markets. With a degree in social communication and postgraduate work in business administration, her expertise includes managing and launching products, communication planning, market studies and analysis, and identifying new business opportunities. She also has beauty blog (www.circulodabeleza.com.br), and is a makeup artist and image consultant.