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    Features

    A Clean Slate

    Regulators, marketers and consumers are asking themselves: “What does it mean to be clean?” and “Am I too sensitive?”

    A Clean Slate
    A Clean Slate
    The latest from Olay: Fresh Outlast Birchwater & Lavender Body Wash.
    Tom Branna, Editorial Director11.01.17
    Not all clean is created equal. At nearly $5 billion, the soap category rose a scant .23% during the past year in food, drug and mass markets, according to Information Resources, Inc. But within the overall sector, some segments are performing much better than others, according to IRI. At the same time, the Food and Drug Administration (FDA) continues to query industry on the benefits of antimicrobial products which, in turn, casts a pall over the category.


    But the American Cleaning Institute (ACI) is working with FDA on the issues surrounding topical antimicrobial products and ingredients. According to Brian Sansoni, VP-communications and membership and VP-sustainability initiatives, more than a year ago FDA granted a deferral of rulemaking for one year for the three active ingredients that ACI is supporting (benzalkonium chloride (BAC), benzethonium chloride (BZT) and chloroxylenol (PCMX)). ACI has since developed and submitted to FDA a detailed work plan to satisfy the agency’s data requirements for both the safety and effectiveness for BAC, BZT and PCMX used in consumer antiseptic wash products and ethanol used in health care antiseptic products.


    “In response to the February 2017 Progress Report that ACI submitted, FDA granted a deferral of rulemaking through March 2018 for the four actives under the consumer antiseptic wash rule and health care antiseptics rule,” explained Sansoni. “It appears FDA will continue to grant ACI’s requested deferrals as long as progress on data generation continues in a timely manner.”


    Furthermore, a proposed rule for consumer leave-on antiseptic ingredients was issued on June 30, 2016 covering the safety and efficacy of ethyl alcohol, isopropyl alcohol and benzalkonium chloride. ACI submitted comments on the proposed rule in December 2016 requesting a deferral of rulemaking for ethyl alcohol and benzalkonium chloride to allow time for development of the requested data.


    FDA released its proposed rule on Health Care Antiseptic products on May 1, 2015.  ACI has organized its interested member companies to collect data and information that is responsive to the agency’s needs. FDA is expected to finalize the rule for health care antiseptics by the end of the year and, as noted above, ACI has already received a deferral of rulemaking for BAC, BZT, PCMX and ethanol. ACI is also supporting povidone-iodine (PVP-I) and submitted a work plan to the Agency in July to support a deferral of rulemaking for that active ingredient. ACI has completed two efficacy studies for active ingredients including an in vitro time-kill test for four active ingredients (BAC, BZT, PCMX and ethanol) and a pilot in vivo health care personnel hand rub study for ethanol.


    Gojo is the No. 3 player in the hand sanitizer space, thanks to its Purell brand. One of the newest extensions, Purell Advanced Naturals, posted a nearly 140% leap in sales, according to IRI. Gojo says the plant-based alcohol eliminates 99.99% of illness-causing germs. Moreover, it is naturally-fragranced using essential oils and is USDA Biobased and EcoLogo certified.


    Dial is a leader antibacterial soap space with its eponymous brand and the Henkel division expanded on its offerings with the recent rollouts of Dial Complete in Fresh Lavender and Citrus Sunburst. Both foaming hand washes are said to be specially formulated for the kitchen in order to both kill common kitchen bacteria and eliminate stubborn food odors. They kill 99.99% of common kitchen bacteria including E. coli, salmonella, shigella and listeria, according to the company.


    A relatively new player is making noise in the $200 million-plus hand sanitizer category. Tri Coastal Design markets a variety of disparate products, including stationary, organizers and coffee mugs. But sales of its hand sanitizers have soared 27% during the past year to more than $4.1 million, according to IRI.


    Soap and sanitizer sales may be stagnant in the US, but clean hands are vital to good hygiene. According to Clean the World, Orlando, each year, 1.7 million children die from diarrhea and pneumonia—illnesses that can be greatly reduced with proper hand washing. Clean the World’s hygiene education programs have been extremely successful to reduce these hygiene-related illnesses, and is ongoing in Kenya, Tanzania, the US, India and Haiti. Where the program is in place there’s been an average of 55% reduction in hygiene-related illnesses and a 45% increase in school attendance.


    Sensitive Issues


    While industry attempts to show the efficacy of active ingredients in sanitizers, another camp within the personal cleanser category is giving those with sensitive skin a chance to shine. Earlier this year, The Body Shop rolled out an Almond Milk and Honey Collection, which includes a shower cream.


    According to Dr. Christine Choi Kim, a dermatologist for The Body Shop, sensitive skin is one of the most common complaints she hears from patients in her dermatology practice. Sensitive skin is defined as the presence of stinging, burning, itching, pain or tightness of the skin.


    “It can occur with or without any signs of dryness or redness and can involve both facial and body areas,” said Kim. “The prevalence of self-reported sensitive skin is as high as 40% worldwide in some studies. People can have sensitive skin from a very young age, but it is a condition that can be acquired later on in life as well.”


    Forty years ago, it’s a safe bet that 40% of the population didn’t report sensitive skin issues. Kim agrees that there is certainly more awareness surrounding sensitive skin issues, which could be contributing to a perception that sensitive skin is on the rise.


    “But it is also possible that sensitive skin truly is increasing in prevalence,” she told Happi. “Factors such as the depletion of the ozone layer, the rise of pollution, and the increasing incidence of food and environmental allergies may be connected to the growing numbers of people with sensitive skin.”


    According to Kim, gentle cleansers and effective moisturizers are the cornerstone of a successful regimen for sensitive skin.


    The Body Shop’s Almond Milk and Honey range is specially formulated to respect dry, sensitive skin.


    “The products in the line gently cleanse and deliver moisture to the skin while being hypoallergenic and formulated without colorants, mineral oil, or petrolatum,” she noted.


    The formulas include almond milk from Spain and Community Trade honey from Ethiopia. The anti-inflammatory and moisturizing properties of almonds were discovered centuries ago to treat skin conditions and minor wounds. 


    Honey has been used since ancient times for its antibacterial, antifungal, and antioxidant properties.  It is also an excellent humectant that attracts and retains moisture.  An added bonus: the range is 100% vegetarian and cruelty-free.


    The Almond Milk and Honey products have been dermatologically tested, and clinical studies showed that they calmed the feelings of itchiness and tightness while also comforting and protecting dry, sensitive skin. Plus, the gentle hypoallergenic fragrance makes for a luxurious, pampering sensorial experience.


    Sensitive skin types usually have a difficult time tolerating certain ingredients such as retinols, alpha- and beta- hydroxy acids, benzoyl peroxide and vitamin C, according to Kim. 


    “I would be cautious using these, and avoid alcohol- or witch hazel-based toners as well,” she added. “Stick to ingredients that have humectants like glycerin and ceramides.”


    Look for the hypoallergenic label, but don’t take it as a guarantee against irritant or allergic reactions. If you want to make extra sure that you are not sensitive to the ingredients, dab some of the product on your inner forearm and observe your skin for three days.  No reaction?  Go ahead and use it on the rest of your body, Kim insisted. 


    The Body Shop isn’t the only company taking a closer look at sensitive skin. To uncover the truth about women’s shower routines and the effect their behavior has on their skin, Dove commissioned research with dermatologists nationwide. It turns out that women do not know that they are being unnecessarily harsh on their skin in the shower. In a survey of 300 dermatologists, three in four of them said that women often damage their skin in the shower, thinking they are caring for it.


    Moreover, 96% of dermatologists report that using harsh cleansers in the shower can have a negative impact on women’s skin and 80% of dermatologists believe that many women are not aware of the difference between cleansers.


    In addition, 92% of dermatologists agree that using gentle products can have a positive impact on women’s skin. Unilever maintains that only Dove Body Wash is made with 100% gentle cleansers, is sulfate-free and is the No. 1 dermatologist-recommended body wash. At least one derm blames surfactants for causing the most skin damage.


    “Harsh surfactants are primarily the most damaging to skin,” explained Dove dermatologist Dr. Mona Gohara. “SLS (or sulfate-containing surfactants) are usually the harshest.


    They strip the skin barrier of oils, proteins and lipids leaving it feeling dry, cracked, irritated, inflamed, but most importantly unhealthy. Some surfactants in leading premium brand cleansers are similar to dish soap!”


    Although harsh cleansers aren’t as damaging as say, UV (after all, too much sun can lead to cancer),  “it certainly can age you and can make the skin inflamed,” explained Gohara. “This can happen after just one wash, because the barrier is disrupted.”


    New Launches from Majors


    Earlier this year, Procter & Gamble rolled out Olay Fresh Outlast Purifying Birch Water and Lavender Body Wash. According to P&G, the formula is designed to work with skin’s natural pH and features the purifying scent of birch water and lavender for a refreshingly deep cleanse, leaving skin more hydrated than bar soap.


    Also in January, Olay added Ultra Moisture Body Wash, a nourishing and gentle cleanser formulated with a unique Lock-in-Moisture technology infusing moisture 10 layers deep into the surface skin, sans the sticky residue, according to P&G. 


    Dial introduced Hibiscus Water body wash and Coconut Milk body wash earlier this year. Both are said to contain an advanced moisture-attracting formula for lasting, lightweight hydration. In fact, Dial says the formulas provide 12 hours of freshness.


    Just for guys, there’s new Dial for Men Recharge Wash. Formulated with caffeine and protein, this wash is said to leave hair, body and face feeling revitalized and fresh, according to the brand.


    Caffeine-based personal cleansers? They may be just the thing to wake up the multibillion dollar cleanser market! 

    Keep It Clean
    • April 7 is World Health Day and what’s the easiest way to stay healthy? Wash your hands! Clean the World Foundation is launching a worldwide Global Handwashing Day initiatives next year aimed at building awareness for the importance of proper hygiene and it is building a permanent interactive exhibit dedicated to health and hygiene education in the Spring of 2018.

    “Improving health and saving lives requires not only access to soap, but also, a holistic approach that focuses on ongoing education that lead to long-term behavior change,” said Sam Stephens, executive director, Clean the World Foundation.

    Opening on World Health Day, April 7, 2018, is Clean the World’s “Story of Soap,” located in its unique and one-of-a-kind attraction at its Orlando headquarters. Visitors to Clean the World’s soap museum will journey through more than 100 years of soap history with a salute to health, beauty and hygiene before entering a real working soap factory to learn about Clean the World’s history and its soap recycling process. Interactive spaces will house a unique experience that will amplify the importance of health and hygiene. 
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