Daniela Ferreira, Correspondent12.01.17
The 4th edition of In-Cosmetics Latin America took place in São Paulo in September. The two-day event welcomed nearly 4,700 visitors, an increase of 12%. The exhibition featured 151 personal care ingredients companies, including major multinationals such as Ashland, Sensient, Clariant, Gattefossé, Chemyunion, Givaudan, Ikeda, Lonza, Croda and Beraca.
In-Cosmetics Latin America’s success underscores the region’s strength. At a press conference to open the event, João Carlos Basilio, president, Brazilian Association of Cosmetic, Toiletry and Fragrance Industry (ABIHPEC), declared that there are good prospects in 2018 for Brazil to pass Japan and return to the No. 3 spot in the global cosmetic industry rankings.
ABIHPEC forecasts 2017 growth somewhere between 1-3% and revenues around R$50 billion ($15.3 billion at current exchange rates), but that still depends on the sales evolution at the end of the year.
“The country is going through a very strong recession period, with political and economic problems,” he pointed out. “The personal care and cosmetics sector is very much impacted by this process, but consumption is increasing. Sector growth will help alleviate the crisis.”
ABIHPEC supported In-Cosmetics Latin America for the fourth year, reinforcing the importance of cosmetic ingredients in Brazil. In the past 15 years, investments in research and development (R&D) assets and branding rose from R$1.2 million in 2000 to R$14.4 million in 2015. According to Basilio, innovation is essential for the growth of the cosmetic, toiletries and fragrance industry, as well as the overall economy.
What’s New?
The 2017 edition of In-Cosmetics Latin America presented two new areas: Make-Up Bar and Protection Zone. For the third year running, makeup has been identified as the most dynamic category in the cosmetics market and the new Make-Up Bar feature gave attendees the opportunity to put new formulations to the test. In the Protection Zone, the ingredients presented were all related to every kind of protection including anti-pollution, UV rays, anti-wrinkle, anti-aging…and even mosquitoes!
Attractions that proved successful in previous editions continued to inspire attendees. The Fragrance Trail, sponsored by Sensient, enabled attendees to try products with unique textures. At the Innovation Zone, visitors could view latest launches from the worldwide industry.
The Formulation Lab provided interactive sessions for laboratory professionals with topics such as “development of innovative textures and optical effect formulations” and “single-step sensory modulation for hair and skin formulations.” Gattefossé, for instance, demonstrated how to formulate a surprising balm-to-oil texture: a solid balm in appearance that is, in fact, an oil-in- Water emulsion containing very little water. Easy to apply, the balm liquefies when in contact with the skin to became a nourishing and silky oil, without being greasy.
The Innovation Zone highlighted 28 ingredients, all launched during 2017. The Innovation Zone Best Ingredient awards honor the development of novel materials that combine innovative science in a way that demonstrates substantial benefits to manufacturers and end-users, when compared to existing ingredients. The winners were: Givaudan, with Revivyl, which received the Gold award; Silab won the Silver with Hairgenyl; and Vantage took Bronze with PreBio Defense.
Another honor presented during In-Cosmetics Latin America was the Innovation Award organized by the Institute of Technology and Studies in Cosmetics, Toiletries and Fragrances (ITEHPEC), which recognizes and encourages exhibitors to strengthen the relationship between innovation, technology and the cosmetic, toiletry and fragrance industry. Silab won gold, Clariant took Silver and Lipotec, Bronze in this category.
Much to Do
In-Cosmetics Latin America included more than 40 hours of educational content distributed among workshops, live demonstrations, technical seminars and market trend presentations. For example, Elton Morimitsu, senior research analyst at Euromonitor International, noted that men’s grooming is gaining in Latin America, posting the second best growth rate among beauty and personal care categories between 2011 and 2016 to reach $10 billion last year.
“The forecast is an increase of 27% until 2021,” he added.
Sales of men’s personal care products remain dominated by more traditional categories such as fragrances, deodorants and shaving products, which together account for 96% of the total.
“The biggest challenge in Latin America is breaking down stereotypes. Brazil is very strong in the area of fragrances for the male audience,” explained Morimitsu. “(But) products aimed at skin care, for example, are still very much associated with women.”
To change that perception, companies are exploring specific product niches with sun protection, developing a new trend toward multifunctional items, according to Morimitsu.
Ingredient Insights
According to Factor-Kline, the global market for raw materials is worth about $22 billion (ex-factory). Commodities and fine chemicals account for $11.2 billion, followed by specialties ($9.2 billion) and actives ($1.6 billion). Commodities are said to have a low compound annual growth rate. Specialties are exhibiting moderate to high rates and active ingredients have high growth rates.
Skin care is the leading category in the global marketplace, and these ingredients show the highest growth forecast for 2016 to 2020. It is particularly true in fast-growing markets such as China and India. The exceptions are Japan and Brazil where hair care dominates. Anti-aging is the functionality that will continue to grow in the coming years. Botanical and biotechnological ingredients are expected to have the highest growth, predicted Factor-Kline.
What does the consumer want? Factor-Kline says effective lighter and softer natural products with multifunctional benefits. Suppliers had their own ideas about what will work now and in the future. What follows are some of the products that we saw at the exhibition.
Hair Care Ideas
Beraca is a leading provider of natural and organic-certified ingredients ethically sourced from the Amazon rainforest and other Brazilian ecosystems. The Brazilian company presented Capillus Pro 22, a secondary surfactant suitable for hair care products including conditioners, masks, and repair and combing creams. It is designed to strengthen the hair fiber and improve combability for intense hair smoothness, manageability and shine. Clinical tests have shown that Capillus Pro 22 can restore the hair fiber by 21%, improve wet combability by 18.5% and improve shine a staggering 111.5%.
“Capillus Pro 22 is the first ingredient developed by Beraca in partnership with Clariant. It is the result of a synergy between an amido-amine that was already available in the market and the pracaxi oil, a sustainably-sourced, natural ingredient,” said Beraca’s CEO Daniel Sabará. “The collaboration with Clariant has enabled us to maximize the potential of our portfolio and develop high-performance ingredients sourced from a sustainable and traceable supply chain.”
Mibelle Biochemistry (Switzerland) presented JabuticaBelle, a co-creation with Focus Química, an importer and distributor of ingredients to Brazil. JabuticaBelle is derived from Jabuticaba, a Brazilian fruit rich in phenolic compounds that is a powerful antioxidant agent. It is said to reduce hair and scalp stress caused by chemical hair treatments, protect hair color and neutralize urban stress factors. In vivo tests with Brazilian volunteers showed that 90% of them perceived a reduction in sensitivity after just two applications.
Silab presented Hairgenyl an anti-hair loss active ingredient, which supports the biological activity of the dermal papilla and stimulates hair follicle growth to normalize hair development. It is derived from the yeast Pichia minuta, isolated from the flowers of azalea and manufactured in Silab´s production unit dedicated to biotechnologies. When tested on volunteers, it was shown to boost hair regrowth: the hair is thicker, more resistant and scalp is more densely covered.
Innovations in Skin Care
PreBio Defense is a patented encapsulation system from Vantage that is said to guarantee the delivery system of prebiotics in the skin at the moment of the application to increase the immunity and to repair the dermal barrier. It is said to provide hydration, a calming effect and well-being for a healthy and balanced skin. Another ingredient, Lipobead Detox with charcoal, is an encapsulate system with multifunctional-activated charcoal. Vantage said it is an excellent candidate for skin treatments designed to appeal to all the senses. It Is said to protect against pollution, removes impurities and absorbs dirt and toxins. It can also be applied in hair care.
One of the new ingredients from Lucas Meyer/IFF is Melinoil, an oil-soluble α-MSH Biomimetic peptide designed to stimulate the natural cell photoprotection process to preserve skin health after repeated sun exposure, limiting damage associated with premature aging. Its triple action, melanin synthesis, DNA protection and repair and anti-inflammatory activity, induces pigmentation and reduces redness to decrease UV-induced skin damage. It also is said to provide a sun-kissed glow for healthy-looking skin. Melinoil is designed to be formulated in all types of oily products.
Colorful Options
Sun Chemical Performance Pigments showcased a portfolio of cosmetic dyes, pigments and effects. SunShine Mystic Black is based on synthetic mica which provides a soft skin feel and high color purity. Its black pearl effect pigment achieves a combination of jetness, coverage, sparkle and luster and can be used to create bold formulations for lipstick, mascara, eyeliners, eye shadows and nail lacquers. Another intensifier is the Intenza Colorants Intensify Color Palette. Its pearlescent pigments combine certified organic colorants with synthetic mica substrates, resulting in remarkable hue and chroma without the need for intense grinding and milling. These pigments are additive- and Preservative -free with heavy metal specifications that surpass global regulatory requirements, according to Sun.
New Ventures
Cargill Beauty, the new Cargill platform which was launched six months ago at In-Cosmetic London, was presented at In-Cosmetic Latin America. According to Stephane Lacoutiere, Cargill’s expertise in food chemistry has been transferred to personal care. Cargill Beauty offers a diverse portfolio of nature-derived ingredients through sustainable, global and transparent supply chains. One of these is Actigum VSX 20, a texturizer based on polysaccharides of natural origin, which boosts viscosity and stability. From an aesthetic perspective, it delivers smoothness, delicate shine and lightness to creams and brilliant texture. Across the board, it provides good moisturizing benefits. In skin and sun care formulas it improves immediate and long-lasting moisturizing properties. In toiletries and hair care formulas, it creates a fine foam. More specifically, in shampoos, it improves foam stability and speeds up foam formation. In addition, it makes combing easier and leaves a soft feeling on the hair. In shower gels, it is easy to rinse and provides the skin with a very soft feel.
As In-Cosmetics Latin America showed, innovation is crucial for beauty firms. Consumers are better educated and connected and they demand a total experience from their purchases.
Daniela Ferreira
Correspondent
daniester@circulodabeleza.com.br
Mobile: 55-11-993880867
Daniela Ferreira is a marketing and communication professional in both consumer and B2B cosmetic markets. With a degree in social communication and postgraduate work in business administration, her expertise includes managing and launching products, communication planning, market studies and analysis, and identifying new business opportunities. She also has beauty blog (www.circulodabeleza.com.br), and is a makeup artist and image consultant.
In-Cosmetics Latin America’s success underscores the region’s strength. At a press conference to open the event, João Carlos Basilio, president, Brazilian Association of Cosmetic, Toiletry and Fragrance Industry (ABIHPEC), declared that there are good prospects in 2018 for Brazil to pass Japan and return to the No. 3 spot in the global cosmetic industry rankings.
ABIHPEC forecasts 2017 growth somewhere between 1-3% and revenues around R$50 billion ($15.3 billion at current exchange rates), but that still depends on the sales evolution at the end of the year.
“The country is going through a very strong recession period, with political and economic problems,” he pointed out. “The personal care and cosmetics sector is very much impacted by this process, but consumption is increasing. Sector growth will help alleviate the crisis.”
ABIHPEC supported In-Cosmetics Latin America for the fourth year, reinforcing the importance of cosmetic ingredients in Brazil. In the past 15 years, investments in research and development (R&D) assets and branding rose from R$1.2 million in 2000 to R$14.4 million in 2015. According to Basilio, innovation is essential for the growth of the cosmetic, toiletries and fragrance industry, as well as the overall economy.
What’s New?
The 2017 edition of In-Cosmetics Latin America presented two new areas: Make-Up Bar and Protection Zone. For the third year running, makeup has been identified as the most dynamic category in the cosmetics market and the new Make-Up Bar feature gave attendees the opportunity to put new formulations to the test. In the Protection Zone, the ingredients presented were all related to every kind of protection including anti-pollution, UV rays, anti-wrinkle, anti-aging…and even mosquitoes!
Attractions that proved successful in previous editions continued to inspire attendees. The Fragrance Trail, sponsored by Sensient, enabled attendees to try products with unique textures. At the Innovation Zone, visitors could view latest launches from the worldwide industry.
The Formulation Lab provided interactive sessions for laboratory professionals with topics such as “development of innovative textures and optical effect formulations” and “single-step sensory modulation for hair and skin formulations.” Gattefossé, for instance, demonstrated how to formulate a surprising balm-to-oil texture: a solid balm in appearance that is, in fact, an oil-in- Water emulsion containing very little water. Easy to apply, the balm liquefies when in contact with the skin to became a nourishing and silky oil, without being greasy.
The Innovation Zone highlighted 28 ingredients, all launched during 2017. The Innovation Zone Best Ingredient awards honor the development of novel materials that combine innovative science in a way that demonstrates substantial benefits to manufacturers and end-users, when compared to existing ingredients. The winners were: Givaudan, with Revivyl, which received the Gold award; Silab won the Silver with Hairgenyl; and Vantage took Bronze with PreBio Defense.
Another honor presented during In-Cosmetics Latin America was the Innovation Award organized by the Institute of Technology and Studies in Cosmetics, Toiletries and Fragrances (ITEHPEC), which recognizes and encourages exhibitors to strengthen the relationship between innovation, technology and the cosmetic, toiletry and fragrance industry. Silab won gold, Clariant took Silver and Lipotec, Bronze in this category.
Much to Do
In-Cosmetics Latin America included more than 40 hours of educational content distributed among workshops, live demonstrations, technical seminars and market trend presentations. For example, Elton Morimitsu, senior research analyst at Euromonitor International, noted that men’s grooming is gaining in Latin America, posting the second best growth rate among beauty and personal care categories between 2011 and 2016 to reach $10 billion last year.
“The forecast is an increase of 27% until 2021,” he added.
Sales of men’s personal care products remain dominated by more traditional categories such as fragrances, deodorants and shaving products, which together account for 96% of the total.
“The biggest challenge in Latin America is breaking down stereotypes. Brazil is very strong in the area of fragrances for the male audience,” explained Morimitsu. “(But) products aimed at skin care, for example, are still very much associated with women.”
To change that perception, companies are exploring specific product niches with sun protection, developing a new trend toward multifunctional items, according to Morimitsu.
Ingredient Insights
According to Factor-Kline, the global market for raw materials is worth about $22 billion (ex-factory). Commodities and fine chemicals account for $11.2 billion, followed by specialties ($9.2 billion) and actives ($1.6 billion). Commodities are said to have a low compound annual growth rate. Specialties are exhibiting moderate to high rates and active ingredients have high growth rates.
Skin care is the leading category in the global marketplace, and these ingredients show the highest growth forecast for 2016 to 2020. It is particularly true in fast-growing markets such as China and India. The exceptions are Japan and Brazil where hair care dominates. Anti-aging is the functionality that will continue to grow in the coming years. Botanical and biotechnological ingredients are expected to have the highest growth, predicted Factor-Kline.
What does the consumer want? Factor-Kline says effective lighter and softer natural products with multifunctional benefits. Suppliers had their own ideas about what will work now and in the future. What follows are some of the products that we saw at the exhibition.
Hair Care Ideas
Beraca is a leading provider of natural and organic-certified ingredients ethically sourced from the Amazon rainforest and other Brazilian ecosystems. The Brazilian company presented Capillus Pro 22, a secondary surfactant suitable for hair care products including conditioners, masks, and repair and combing creams. It is designed to strengthen the hair fiber and improve combability for intense hair smoothness, manageability and shine. Clinical tests have shown that Capillus Pro 22 can restore the hair fiber by 21%, improve wet combability by 18.5% and improve shine a staggering 111.5%.
“Capillus Pro 22 is the first ingredient developed by Beraca in partnership with Clariant. It is the result of a synergy between an amido-amine that was already available in the market and the pracaxi oil, a sustainably-sourced, natural ingredient,” said Beraca’s CEO Daniel Sabará. “The collaboration with Clariant has enabled us to maximize the potential of our portfolio and develop high-performance ingredients sourced from a sustainable and traceable supply chain.”
Mibelle Biochemistry (Switzerland) presented JabuticaBelle, a co-creation with Focus Química, an importer and distributor of ingredients to Brazil. JabuticaBelle is derived from Jabuticaba, a Brazilian fruit rich in phenolic compounds that is a powerful antioxidant agent. It is said to reduce hair and scalp stress caused by chemical hair treatments, protect hair color and neutralize urban stress factors. In vivo tests with Brazilian volunteers showed that 90% of them perceived a reduction in sensitivity after just two applications.
Silab presented Hairgenyl an anti-hair loss active ingredient, which supports the biological activity of the dermal papilla and stimulates hair follicle growth to normalize hair development. It is derived from the yeast Pichia minuta, isolated from the flowers of azalea and manufactured in Silab´s production unit dedicated to biotechnologies. When tested on volunteers, it was shown to boost hair regrowth: the hair is thicker, more resistant and scalp is more densely covered.
Innovations in Skin Care
PreBio Defense is a patented encapsulation system from Vantage that is said to guarantee the delivery system of prebiotics in the skin at the moment of the application to increase the immunity and to repair the dermal barrier. It is said to provide hydration, a calming effect and well-being for a healthy and balanced skin. Another ingredient, Lipobead Detox with charcoal, is an encapsulate system with multifunctional-activated charcoal. Vantage said it is an excellent candidate for skin treatments designed to appeal to all the senses. It Is said to protect against pollution, removes impurities and absorbs dirt and toxins. It can also be applied in hair care.
One of the new ingredients from Lucas Meyer/IFF is Melinoil, an oil-soluble α-MSH Biomimetic peptide designed to stimulate the natural cell photoprotection process to preserve skin health after repeated sun exposure, limiting damage associated with premature aging. Its triple action, melanin synthesis, DNA protection and repair and anti-inflammatory activity, induces pigmentation and reduces redness to decrease UV-induced skin damage. It also is said to provide a sun-kissed glow for healthy-looking skin. Melinoil is designed to be formulated in all types of oily products.
Colorful Options
Sun Chemical Performance Pigments showcased a portfolio of cosmetic dyes, pigments and effects. SunShine Mystic Black is based on synthetic mica which provides a soft skin feel and high color purity. Its black pearl effect pigment achieves a combination of jetness, coverage, sparkle and luster and can be used to create bold formulations for lipstick, mascara, eyeliners, eye shadows and nail lacquers. Another intensifier is the Intenza Colorants Intensify Color Palette. Its pearlescent pigments combine certified organic colorants with synthetic mica substrates, resulting in remarkable hue and chroma without the need for intense grinding and milling. These pigments are additive- and Preservative -free with heavy metal specifications that surpass global regulatory requirements, according to Sun.
New Ventures
Cargill Beauty, the new Cargill platform which was launched six months ago at In-Cosmetic London, was presented at In-Cosmetic Latin America. According to Stephane Lacoutiere, Cargill’s expertise in food chemistry has been transferred to personal care. Cargill Beauty offers a diverse portfolio of nature-derived ingredients through sustainable, global and transparent supply chains. One of these is Actigum VSX 20, a texturizer based on polysaccharides of natural origin, which boosts viscosity and stability. From an aesthetic perspective, it delivers smoothness, delicate shine and lightness to creams and brilliant texture. Across the board, it provides good moisturizing benefits. In skin and sun care formulas it improves immediate and long-lasting moisturizing properties. In toiletries and hair care formulas, it creates a fine foam. More specifically, in shampoos, it improves foam stability and speeds up foam formation. In addition, it makes combing easier and leaves a soft feeling on the hair. In shower gels, it is easy to rinse and provides the skin with a very soft feel.
As In-Cosmetics Latin America showed, innovation is crucial for beauty firms. Consumers are better educated and connected and they demand a total experience from their purchases.
Daniela Ferreira
Correspondent
daniester@circulodabeleza.com.br
Mobile: 55-11-993880867
Daniela Ferreira is a marketing and communication professional in both consumer and B2B cosmetic markets. With a degree in social communication and postgraduate work in business administration, her expertise includes managing and launching products, communication planning, market studies and analysis, and identifying new business opportunities. She also has beauty blog (www.circulodabeleza.com.br), and is a makeup artist and image consultant.
