Christine Esposito, Associate Editor03.01.18
Remember when the talk about sunscreen could be boiled down to three letters, S-P-F? These days, when it comes to sunscreen, consumers are concerned about ingredients, sources and types of light, and what extra benefits a formulation might provide to their skin—not to mention potential damage their sunscreen may have on sensitive coral reefs and, more recently, if they should be applying lotion before they board (and we don’t mean surfboard)!
Just when it appears more Americans are finally taking dermatologists’ orders to heart and are applying higher levels of SPF when they are outside for extended periods of time and incorporating SPF into their daily beauty routines, come media stories about the need to wear sunscreen not just on vacation, but on the airplane that they take to get to that vacation destination!
“Overall, I do believe Americans have a higher knowledge level about sunscreen and sun protection. But that knowledge hasn’t translated into changing daily usage habits. There’s still a very big need for public education on fundamental information, like proper application and how to read a sunscreen label,” said Darrell Rigel, MD, clinical professor of dermatology, New York University Medical Center.
The ingredient deck and label have become critical to product selection, especially for consumers who are concerned about certain ingredients that might be used in a formulation. Often, these consumers are guided by groups like the Environmental Working Group and Consumer Reports, both of which publish sunscreen reports each year, citing which brands use select ingredients (mineral vs. chemical) and which products stand up to claims they make.
Companies making the grade with either organization enjoy their time in the sun, so to speak. Tom’s of Maine’s foray into kid’s sunscreen last summer was lauded by EWG as its Natural Baby Sunscreen was listed among the best-rated options in 2017.
“We appreciate the recognition,” Liz Eddy, senior brand manager with Tom’s of Maine, told Happi. “Having a baby really inspires many new parents to take their healthy lifestyle to a new level.Parents can be overwhelmed with the options for baby sunscreen, which makes it so important to know what’s inside. In some cases, our baby products, including our sunscreen, have half of the number of ingredients found in other brands.”
Fewer ingredients but ample protection was the goal at Tom’s of Maine, which took more than three years to create a natural, effective formula “using only just what is necessary while still meeting the needs of parents and baby. Effective sunscreen is so important to protecting baby’s delicate skin,” Eddy added.
Not all sun care brands fared as well in the Yonkers, NY-based organization’s 2017 analysis. In fact, in its annual test and rating of 58 lotions, sprays and sticks, 20 sunscreens tested at less than half of their labeled SPF number, said CR, noting that it was the fifth year in a row where many failed to provide an adequate level of protection in their tests. The 15 products that tested best at CR included a mix of well-known sun care market leaders like La Roche-Posay and Banana Boat, and private labels, such as an SPF 50 spray sold under the Trader Joe’s banner and Equate Sport Lotion SPF 50, which is owned by Walmart.
Despite testing more formulations and including products with higher concentrations of the active ingredients than it had before, the Consumer Reports staff lamented once again that they could not find a mineral-based sunscreen—often referred to as “natural” sunscreens—that delivers the whole package: top-notch UVA and UVB protection. The natural sunscreen that ranked highest was California Kids #Supersensitive Lotion SPF 30+, which finished with an overall “good” rating thanks to some mixed results. CR said it recorded very good score for UVB protection, an excellent variation from SPF rating, but only fair for UVA protection.
In its report, CR editors suggested that if consumers were unable to find one of its 15 recommended products, they should look for a sunscreen labeled with an “SPF of at least 40 that contains chemical active ingredients such as avobenzone rather than ‘natural’ or mineral active ingredients such as zinc oxide.”
Leading the Way
Companies with well-known and legacy properties such as Coppertone (Bayer), Banana Boat and Hawaiian Tropic (both Edgewell), command leadership positions within the mass market side of the sun care category. According to IRI, sales of suntan lotion at US multi-outlets for the 52 weeks ended Dec. 31, 2017 were relatively stable at $1.21 billion (down just 0.44%). Edgewell leads the big three followed by Neutrogena and Bayer (see chart below).
Johnson & Johnson’s powerhouse Neutrogena brand has been pushing its skin care expertise further to grow its share of the sun care category.
“We are constantly investing in education, technology and innovation, to provide consumers with the best products and tools to enable them to live a sun safe lifestyle,” Ehsan Sarrafian, senior brand manager, Neutrogena Sun Care, told Happi.
For instance, the brand continues to work on aesthetics, which continues as a main reason why consumers don’t wear protection.
“At Neutrogena, we’ve already innovated to create high-performing sunscreens that don’t feel like sunscreens. Consumers can expect more of that this summer with new Hydro Boost SPF 30 and 50 Sunscreens, which bring our most advanced hydrating skin care technology to sun care. Hydro Boost provides powerful protection that quenches skin with hydration and feels water-light, for everyday wear,” Sarrafian said.
Accounting for as much as 50% of the category, sprays are uber popular due to their convenience, but consumers can end up dissatisfied when spots are missed. Neutrogena is making advancements here as well with new Ultra Sheer and CoolDry Sport FullReach sprays.
“The package design incorporates a handle to extend your reach for hard to get to spots,” according to Sarrafian.
In addition, the J&J brand is also leading with higher SPFs, and recently had a study published in the Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology (JAAD) that shows Neutrogena SPF100+ broad spectrum sunscreen was significantly more effective in protecting against sunburn than an SPF50+ broad spectrum sunscreen, in actual use settings, according to the company.
“This kind of real-world science demonstrates the benefit of sunscreen in everyday life,” said Sarrafian.
But getting consumers to follow that practice remains a challenge.
“Roughly one third of American households are using sunscreen each year, and this has remained stagnant for years. Among those using sunscreen, frequency of use has also been flat. Making simple, sun-safe habits a part of your everyday routine is one of the best things you can do for the health of your skin. It isn’t just for the beach. Getting kids to pick up sun-safe habits doesn’t have to be hard and can help set them up for a lifetime of healthy, happy days in the sun,” Sarrafain noted. “We are partnering with dermatologists and other experts to offer consumers tips and tools to help change their family sunscreen usage habits.”
Leading brand La Roche-Posay has been using technology to help consumers improve their sun care habits. As a follow up to the 2016 launch of My UV Patch, the brand this year unveiled UV Sense, the first battery-free wearable electronic UV sensor, at CES in Last Vegas.
According to the L’Oréal-owned brand, consumer studies showed that My UV Patch had a positive impact on the sun safety behaviors of consumers—with 34% applying sunscreen more often and 37% trying to stay in the shade more frequently. It expects bigger things from the smaller UV Sense, which measures individual UV exposure and can store up to three months of data and show trends of exposure over time with instant updates. At less than two millimeters thick and nine millimeters in diameter, UV Sense is designed to be worn on the thumbnail—a part of the body that receives optimal sunlight, so consumers can increase wear time to several weeks and can reapply with adhesive that is included in the pack. UV Sense will be available on a limited basis in the US for the 2018 summer season with a global launch next year.
La Roche-Posay is also focused on topicals, of course, and its R&D staff continues to innovate within its popular Anthelios franchise. Following the 2016 launch of Anthelios Clear Skin, an oil-free sunscreen that doesn’t cause breakouts, and Anthelios Dermo Kids Gentle Sunscreen lotion last year, the brand set its focus on people’s motivation behind exercising and their sun safety behavior while exercising outdoors. In its research, La Roche-Posay found that while 76% of respondents cite health as the main motivation for exercising (beating out weight management, social and mood related motivations) and 75% said that exercise was their preferred way to improve their health, only 32% claimed to wear sunscreen always/very often when exercising outdoors.
The brand dug deeper to find out what sunscreen characteristic would motivate users to wear sunscreen more often when exercising outside, and the top two answers were related to sweat and sensitive skin. In response, La Roche-Posay’s big launch this season is new Anthelios 60 Sport Activewear Lotion Sunscreen, a heavy-duty lotion developed specifically to protect sensitive skin and help absorb sweat during outdoor activities. It features a unique dry-touch texture formulated with natural Perlite, a volcanic mineral that can absorb more than two times its weight in water and oil. When first applied to the skin, the lotion is visible to ensure optimal application and then blends well until it’s invisible. Its formulation, including an innovative powder complex, enables it to go on dry and stay on skin to absorb moisture, according to the brand, which excluded fragrance, parabens, oils, oxybenzone and retinyl palmitate from the mix.
Other Voices
While the large players often dominate the discussion and shelves at major retailers, there is sea of smaller brands vying for consumer’s attention. Often, these brands tap into specific lifestyles, and formulate with specific ingredients to help set their lotions, sprays and sticks apart from the competition.
California-based upscale sunscreen brand Coola is set to roll out new SKUs this month including Organic SPF 30 360° Sun Silk Drops, full spectrum organic skin care that is said to be light-as-air yet protects against broad spectrum UVA/UVB, IR (infrared), and HEV (high energy visible) light to keep users covered from beach to boardroom. Chemists incorporated hyaluronic acid to help replenish and make skin appear supple and smooth; Elix-IR Extract, which reduces visible signs of photoaging and appearance of wrinkles due to IR rays; and Liposhield, which protects the skin from damaging high energy visible (HEV) light.
Coola’s 2018 launches also include an Organic SPF 30 Scalp & Hair Mist that offers a lightweight blend of plant extracts to promote the overall health of scalp and hair as it provides SPF 30 UVA/UVB protection. Ingredients include gotu extract, which improves blood circulation in the scalp, and monoi oil, which offers natural UV protection and improves the shine and condition of dry and damaged hair. The water resistant (80 min.) spray comes in a “Natural Ocean Salted Sage” scent.
Supergoop is also shedding new light on, well, a new light that can damage skin—blue light that is emitted from smartphones and computers. The San Antonio, TX -based brand founded by Holly Thaggard has unveiled Unseen Sunscreen, which is billed as an antioxidant-rich, invisible, weightless and scentless daily SPF that smooths and preps skin for makeup while providing full spectrum SPF 40 protection. The unique oil-free formula includes red algae, which helps protect against the harmful effects of blue light, and meadowfoam seed oil, which increases skin hydration.
Also for designed for daily use is Avene’s new Mineral Light Mattifying Suncreen Lotion SPF 50, an advanced sunscreen for acne-prone skin that offers the optimal efficacy of 100% mineral UVA/UVB filters as it controls oil and mattifies shine. The lotion, which delivers maximum water-resistance (80 min.), is formulated with Avene thermal spring water, titanium dioxide (5.5%), zinc oxide (8%), zinc gluconate (for anti-inflammatory benefits), and patent-pending Monolaurin. The latter is clinically proven to inhibit 5a-Reductase (the enzyme that triggers excess sebum) by 34%, oil production by 33% and the proliferation of sebocytes by 68%, according to the brand, which is dispensed at physician’s offices and authorized retailers and is also sold online at www.aveneusa.com.
Beyond Coastal, a brand that ranked high on EWG’s list last year, is looking to solve facial skin needs of athletes and outdoor enthusiasts with its Active Face Stick, which is formulated for high exposure areas and provides shelter from UVA rays with avobenzone SPF 30 that effectively blocks 97% of sunburn-causing UVB rays. The non-greasy formula is easy to rub in and acts as a wind-chap to keep your face protected during high altitude sports such as skiing and ultra-running.
“Eighty percent of sunscreen is comprised of inactive ingredients and instead of using cheap, unhealthy fillers, Beyond Coastal uses ingredients such as aloe vera, yerba mate, larch tree, rose hip and shea butter that hydrate, repair and nourish the skin while protecting it against both UVA and UVB harmful rays,” marketing director Colleen Gilligan told Happi.
Stick application keeps hands clean and dry as the sunscreen is applied directly to the face, nose and ears so there is no taking off ski gloves or getting product on fingers when casting a fly-fishing line. Those benefits are well-suited for a brand that’s targeting a core consumer group.
“As a brand that has always been for athletes, by athletes, Beyond Coastal is going back to its roots with its newly revamped ambassador program,” according to Gilligan. The brand will support a team of athlete ambassadors, those who spend hours, days and even weeks at high altitudes, on the water, on snow, and in extreme conditions and will rely on them to test, provide feedback and help spread awareness about the importance of the right sunscreen options for athletes.
Another brand with an outdoor heritage is Raw Elements USA. This growing company, founded by a former lifeguard, is keenly concerned about protection of more than just skin. The Rhode Island-based brand is addressing concerns about the impact of sunscreens on ocean life.
“People are starting to really look at the ingredients in their sunscreens and determine what is safe for them as well as the ocean,” said Brian Guadagno, who founded the company in 2011.
Guadagno told Happi that Raw Elements has made “major headway in Hawaii,” a state that is currently trying to ban the sale of sunscreen with certain chemicals (oxybenzone). “Because our products only use non-nano zinc oxide, we are one of the only reef-safe options,” he said, noting that his brand can be found on the islands from hotels to sailing charters to ABC stores.
Raw Elements is growing in other ways too; this month, Raw Elements products are available in REI, the outdoor co-op retailer, and just in time for spring it will unveil new packaging and add SKUs. It is bringing back its Moisturizing Daily Scrub and adding a Revitalizing Skin Tonic. The company developed sunscreen dispensers too, which were available on Narragansett Beach this past summer and will be on-site at the Surfjack Hotel on Oahu, Gemini Sailing Charters on Maui, and Holoholo Charters on Kauai. And, Raw Elements is also readying a new lightweight version of its formula that is due out later this year.
Indie brand owners like Guadagno know hard work and persistence can pay off.
“We are definitely still in the brand awareness-building phase, but because of the quality of our ingredients and efficacy of our formulas, people are finding us. We’ve really been focusing on digital marketing to reach new people. There aren’t many reef-safe sunscreens, non-GMO sunscreens or EWG No. 1 rated sunscreens out there besides us. Our mission is to be the safest, most effective sunscreen on the planet,” he said.
As winter winds down, the US sun care executives that Happi interviewed seem primed for the summer season. They have invested in their business by looking at new ways to boost performance, enhance the user experience and minimize the environmental impact of their lotions, sprays and sticks. Although sales have been relatively flat, the good news is smaller players are expanding their retail presence. This should benefit their bottom line and give consumers access to more products—and perhaps that next purchase will become someone’s go-to brand. After all, as dermatologists can attest, proper sun protection from a sunscreen comes only when consumers commit to wearing it.
Said Dr. Rigel, “I tell [my [patients] that the best sunscreen is the one they like to use, because they are likely to use it daily.”
Below is a list of new ingredients for sun care formulations introduced by suppliers.
For more information on the ingredients listed, please contact the companies directly using the information provided.
AAK
Edison, NJ
Tel.: 973-741-5009
Email: john.okeefe@aak.com
Website: www.aakpersonalcare.com
Lipex SheaLight
INCI: Shea butter ethyl esters Applications: Solubilizer, sensorial and performance enhancer, sustainability
Use levels: 1-25%
Comments: Eco-designed and sustainable. Produced using low energy processes from shea butter and ethanol from agricultural sources. Low viscosity, high polarity with silky, non-oily afterfeel. Good solubilizer of solid organic UV filters and excellent dispersant for inorganic UV filters. Lipex SheaLight does not break down on UV exposure and is not phototoxic.
Lipex PreAct
INCI: Canola oil
Applications: Photoprotection and reduced skin irritation, sustainability
Use levels: 2-5%
Comments: Lipex PreAct protects skin pro- teins and lipids against photo-oxidation, delivering functionality to reduce skin damage and environmental stress induced by UV exposure. It is highly suitable for use in sun-care and other formulations for outdoor use and products for sensitive and irritated skin due to its calming and soothing properties.
Lipex SheaTris
INCI: Butyrospermum parkii (shea) butter extract
Applications: Anti-inflammatory, protection against environmental stress, sustainability Use levels: 0.3-.0.5%
Comments: Lipex Shea Tris is a bioactive ingredient with 50-65% concentrate of triterpene esters. Lipex Shea Tris revitalizes the skin showing skin restoring, soothing and protecting properties. Lipex Shea Tris protects skin collagen structures and is shown to reduce inflammation markers such as TNF-a and PGE-2 after an exposure of 4 MED UVA+UVB.
Arista Industries, Inc.
Wilton, CT
Tel.: 203-761-1009
Email: info@aristaindustries.com
Website: www.aristaindustries.com
Almond Oil
INCI: Prunus amygdalas dulcis (sweet almond) oil
Applications: sunscreens and after sun products
Use levels: 1-100% depending on formula
Comments: Almond Oil has a minimal SPF and can be used in sunscreens. It is a mild oil, rich in vitamin E, which is an excellent moisturizer and emollient, and easily absorbed into the skin. Almond Oil moisturizes and softens skin and can be used in skin lotions, creams or moisturizers for after sun exposure.
Avocado Oil
INCI: Persea gratissima (avocado) oil
Applications: sunblock and sunscreens and after sun products
Use levels: 1-100% depending on formula
Comments: Avocado Oil protects from damaging UV rays and can be used as a natural SPF. Natural mono saturated fats protect skin to help prevent tanning and sun burn. Avocado Oil moisturizes and softens skin and can be used in skin lotions, creams or moisturizers for after sun exposure
Refined Wheat Germ Oil
INCI: Triticum vulgare (wheat) germ oil
Applications: sunblock and sunscreens and after sun products
Use levels: 1-100% depending on formula
Comments: Wheat Germ Oil has a fairly high natural SPF and can be used in sunblock and sunscreens to protect from damaging UV rays. Containing, natural vitamin E and natural antioxidants, it can be used in skin lotions, creams or moisturizers for after sun exposure as these can help protect and repair sun damaged skin.
Ashland
Bridgewater, NJ
Tel.: 877-546-2782
Website: Ashland.com/personalcare
Ganex sensory polymer
INCI: VP/acrylates/lauryl methacrylate copolymer
Applications: Sunscreen emulsions and anhydrous face and body care, color cosmetics
Use levels: 0.5-1.0%
Comments: Ganex Sensory polymer is a water dispersible polymer that has a unique hydrophobic character, capable of forming a mesh over the sunscreen film that will lay on the skin. The mesh protects the film, giving it great water resistance and imparting a superior sensory feel when the formulation dries.
BASF
Florham Park, NJ
Tel.: +1-973-245-6144
Email: anna.gripp@basf.com
Z-Cote, Z-Cote-HP1, Z-Cote LSA
INCI: Z-Cote (Zinc oxide); Z-Cote O-HP1 and Z-Cote LSA (Zinc oxide (and) triethoxycaprylylsilane)
Applications: sun care
Use levels: US and most countries—up to 25%
Comments: Inorganic broad-spectrum UV absorption; Enables elegant and gentle formulations; Photo-stable; Z-Cote and and Z-Cote LSA-UC are uncoated; Z-Cote and Z-Cote HP 1 are nano-sized aprticles; Z-Cote LSA aprticles >/= >100 nm
Centerchem, Inc.
Norwalk, CT
Tel.: 203-822-9800
Email: cosmetics@centerchem.com
Website: www.centerchem.com
Pepha-Age
INCI: Scenedesmus rubescens extract
Use levels: 1.00-3.0%
Applications: Skin care products
Comments: Pepha-Age contains an extract of freshwater microalgae Scenedesmus rubescens (green algae), which provides high biological resistance toward UV and blue light. Pepha-Age is produced by using a sustainable biotech process in state-of-the-art photobioreactors and contains a unique mixture of amino acids, vitamins (B3), algal saccharides and minerals. Pepha-Age stimulates the skin’s own defense against UV and blue light, helping to minimize the appearance of aging. Pepha-Age protects skin against sunlight induced epidermal damage while stimulating Collagen III (youth collagen). Pepha-Age improves skin’s overall appearance.
Grant Industries
Elmwood Park, NJ
Tel.: 201-791-6700
Email: info@grantinc.com
Website: www.grantinc.com
Granpowder QSC
INCI: Polymethylsilsesquioxane/Silica Crosspolymer
Applications: Sun care, skin care, body care, and color cosmetics
Use levels: 1-5%
Comments: Performance benefits include excellent slip and sensory aesthetics, soft focus effect, strong detackifying properties associated with glycols and/or rheology modifiers, and the ability to remove the greasy feel of chemical UV filters. Designed for the aqueous phase of formulations Granpowder QSC has the unique ability to absorb both water and oil.
INOLEX, Inc.
Philadelphia, PA
Tel.: 215-271-0800
Email: answers@inolex.com
Website: Inolex.com
LexFilm Sun Natural
INCI: Capryloyl glycerin/sebacic acid copolymer
Applications: Sun care, skin care, color cosmetics, natural products
Comments: LexFilm Sun Natural is a plant-based, multi-dimensional polymer for sun care application derived entirely from renewable and sustainable building-blocks and is pending NSF, Ecocert and Cosmos certifications. A hydroxyl functional, crosslinked polymer with controlled degree of polymerization, LexFilm Sun Natural is optimized for sensorial and performance and is a pourable viscous fluid that imparts consistent aesthetic appeal as well aa an ideal pigment dispersant for inorganic filters.
Jeen International Corporation
Fairfield, NJ
Tel.: 973-439-1401
Email: info@jeen.com
Website: www.jeen.com
Jeesperse Zo-Oo-50
INCI: Zinc oxide (and) olive oil
Applications: Sun care and sunscreens (organic and inorganic), after-sun treatment emulsions, baby care products
Use levels: up to 50% (check region specific limits)
Comments: This all-natural ingredient is a stable, high solids (50%) dispersion of micro-fine zinc oxide in olive oil. Jeesperse Zo-Oo-50 is manufactured using an advanced proprietary technology to maintain a consistent narrow particle size distribution (PSD) without agglomeration or the need to pre-treat the product. The controlled PSD minimizes and greatly diminishes the negative “whitening” effects typically associated with using zinc oxide. This easy-to-use dispersion blends in quickly contributing to production efficiencies and highest SPF Value in finished products without agglomeration and an extensive manufacturing process.
Jeesperse ICE-T CIS-2
INCI: PEG-150 distearate (and) cetearyl alcohol (and) polyquaternium-37
Applications: Sun care and sunscreens, skin care, hair care
Use levels: 0.5-10%
Comments: Jeesperse ICE-T CIS-2 is a patented cationic emulsifier in a simple-to-use, free-flowing powder. This unique emulsifier base can transform simple formulations into elegant, sophisticated emulsions mimicking the aesthetics of luxurious ingredients without the need or expense of adding sensorial boosting ingredients. Jeesperse ICE-T CIS-2 will impart a silky powdery finish even with extremely high oil loads making it an ideal ingredient for sun care formulations.
Lonza
South Plainfield, NJ
Tel.: 908-561-5200
Email: lonzapc.arch@lonza.com
Website: www.lonza.com/personalcare
LaraCare A200
INCI: Galactoarabinan
Applications: Skin care, sun care
Use levels: 1-5%
Comments: LaraCare A200 is a naturally occurring galactoarabinan for moisture retention and SPF boosting. It can be used to enhance the UV protection delivered by a sunscreen without increasing the concentration of sunscreen and also reduces transepidermal water loss (TEWL). It is approved by Ecocert in ecological and organic certified cosmetics.
Mibelle Biochemistry
Buchs, Switzerland
Tel.: +41 62 836 17 31
Email: info@mibellebiochemistry.com
Website: www.mibellebiochemistry.com
InfraGuard
INCI: Caesalpinia spinosa fruit extract (and) propylene glycol (and) helianthus annuus (sunflower) sprout extract (and) sodium benzoate (and) phenoxyethanol (and) aqua/water
Applications: Shampoos, conditioners, masks, styling products, color protection products, heat protection formula
Use levels: 0.5-2%
Comments: InfraGuard which combines the powerful antioxidant tannins of the tara tree and sunflower sprouts which activate cellular energy is efficient in combating free radicals caused by infrared and blue light radiation. A clinical trial with an SPF30 sun cream clearly showed extra protection by adding 2% InfraGuard.
Sensient Cosmetic Technologies
South Plainfield, NJ
Tel.: 908-757-4500
Email: cosmeticsonline@sensient.com
Website: www.sensient-cosmetics.com/
UVR TiO2 AS
INCI: TiO2 (and) triethoxycaprylylsilane
Applications: Sun care, makeup SPF
Use levels: Max 25%
Comments: UVR TiO2 AS is a high performance coated rutile TiO2 designed to meet changing global regulations. The alkyl silane coating of this ultrafine grade improves hydrophobicity and increases the dispersibility in oils and silicones while enhancing the wear resistance. The ultra fine UVR TiO2 AS particles drastically decrease the whitening effect of TiO2 in sun care and SPF make-up applications. Because consumer safety matters more than ever, this product meets the highest quality standard by being registered as an Active Pharmaceutical Ingredient with the FDA.
CovaScreen UVR CCT
INCI: Caprylic/capric triglyceride (and) TiO2 (and) triethoxycaprylylsilane
Applications: Sun care, makeup SPF
Use levels: Max 40%
Comments: CovaScreen UVR CCT is an advanced dispersion of UVRTiO2 AS, Sensient’s FDA registered high performance ultrafine TiO2. Designed for low whitening sun care and makeup application, CovaScreen UVR CCT facilitates the formulation of formulations designed for sun protection.
NatPure Film GR
INCI: Glyceryl rosinate (and) aqua (and) cellulose (and) sodium sulfate
Applications: Sun care, makeup
Use levels: 1-20%
Comments: NatPure Film GR is a revolutionary natural water resistant film-former that displays better performance than traditional synthetic film-formers. It is based on ingredients sourced from Finnish pine trees and was eco-designed to meet formulator’s sustainability goals. It sharply increases the water resistance of makeup and sun care formulations by preserving SPF values even after immersion.
Shin-Etsu Silicones of America
Akron, OH
Tel.: 330-630-9860, 800-544-1745
Website: www.shinetsusilicones.com, www.silicones.jp
KF-56A
INCI: Diphenylsiloxy phenyl trimethicone
Suggested use levels: 1-20%
Applications: Color cosmetics—foundation, eyeshadow, mascara, lipstick, etc.; Skin lotions and creams; Sun care products—lotions, creams, self-tanners; Hair care products: shine spray, serum.
Comments: KF-56A is a 100% active, clear, water-white, odorless, and high purity phenyl functionalized silicone fluid. The product is designed to offer excellent organic compatibility, high shine and light feel. The high phenyl contents offer high refractive indices. In addition to high shine and gloss, they mask the white residue in antiperspirants and reduce the whitening in sunscreens containing physical UV filters. The phenyl groups also provide compatibility with organic emollients and organic UV filters. The product provides enhance performance benefits for various cosmetic formulations including hair care, skin care, sun care and color cosmetics.
KSG-320
INCI name: Isododecane (and) PEG 15/lauryl dimethicone crosspolymer
Suggested use levels: 1-10%
Applications: Skin lotions and creams; anti-aging products; sun care products—sprays, gels, lotions, creams, self-tanners; fragrance gels; serums; color cosmetics—foundations, eyeshadows, mascaras, lipsticks, blushers, etc.; hair styling products—pomades, gels, cuticle coats, emulsions, serums, etc.
Comments: Shin-Etsu Silicones’ KSG-320 is a self-emulsifying elastomer gel in isododecane. The active elastomer gel has an innovative and unique 3D structure in that the silicone polymer network is crosslinked with polyether groups and additionally grafted with alkyl (C12) groups. The product is designed to be a broad spectrum emulsifier for both water-in-silicone and water-in-oil emulsions. The grafted alkyl groups allow the polymer to swell in both organic and silicone carriers. It can stabilize emulsions with an internal phase ranging from low to ultra-high. Co-emulsifier(s) is optional for emulsion particle size control and optimization. The products are made with a proprietary process with essentially no odor. KSG-320 is designed to be versatile, easy to use, and to create formulations with a wide variety of textures and emollient choices. The formulated products are exceptional in skin feel. Compared with conventional emulsifiers, KSG-320 can stabilize emulsions with much larger particle size distribution with water-breaking properties. Ambient process is the norm when ingredients do not require heat. Low energy process is preferred provided there is good mixing; low energy homogenization is acceptable but not necessary.
KSG-18A
INCI name: Diphenylsiloxy phenyl trimethicone (and) dimethicone/phenyl vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer
Suggested use levels: Emulsions (2-25%); Anhydrous (15-90%); Hair products (1-30%)
Applications: Skin lotions and creams; anti-aging products; sun care products— lotions, creams, self-tanners; fragrance gels; color cosmetics—foundations, eye shadows, mascaras, lipsticks, blushers, etc; anhydrous serums, gels, waxes; hair styling products—cuticle coats, gels, emulsions, etc.
Comments: Shin-Etsu Silicone’s KSG silicone elastomer is part of a patented multifunctional sensory enhancer series designed to be a cost-effective and elegant solutions for the formulation chemists. KSG-18A is a phenyl modified silicone gel in a low viscosity phenyl modified emollient carrier. The product offers an exceptional cushion (from the elastomer gel), silky, smooth and elegant skin feel during application. The product dries down to a silky, powdery after feel with long lasting effects. The product is designed to be an effective thickener for silicone oils as well as low molecular weight organic esters and oils. When added to the oil phase, it helps to stabilize both W/O and O/W emulsions. It is the sensory choice that delivers a luxurious skin feel.
Just when it appears more Americans are finally taking dermatologists’ orders to heart and are applying higher levels of SPF when they are outside for extended periods of time and incorporating SPF into their daily beauty routines, come media stories about the need to wear sunscreen not just on vacation, but on the airplane that they take to get to that vacation destination!
“Overall, I do believe Americans have a higher knowledge level about sunscreen and sun protection. But that knowledge hasn’t translated into changing daily usage habits. There’s still a very big need for public education on fundamental information, like proper application and how to read a sunscreen label,” said Darrell Rigel, MD, clinical professor of dermatology, New York University Medical Center.
The ingredient deck and label have become critical to product selection, especially for consumers who are concerned about certain ingredients that might be used in a formulation. Often, these consumers are guided by groups like the Environmental Working Group and Consumer Reports, both of which publish sunscreen reports each year, citing which brands use select ingredients (mineral vs. chemical) and which products stand up to claims they make.
Companies making the grade with either organization enjoy their time in the sun, so to speak. Tom’s of Maine’s foray into kid’s sunscreen last summer was lauded by EWG as its Natural Baby Sunscreen was listed among the best-rated options in 2017.
“We appreciate the recognition,” Liz Eddy, senior brand manager with Tom’s of Maine, told Happi. “Having a baby really inspires many new parents to take their healthy lifestyle to a new level.Parents can be overwhelmed with the options for baby sunscreen, which makes it so important to know what’s inside. In some cases, our baby products, including our sunscreen, have half of the number of ingredients found in other brands.”
Fewer ingredients but ample protection was the goal at Tom’s of Maine, which took more than three years to create a natural, effective formula “using only just what is necessary while still meeting the needs of parents and baby. Effective sunscreen is so important to protecting baby’s delicate skin,” Eddy added.
Not all sun care brands fared as well in the Yonkers, NY-based organization’s 2017 analysis. In fact, in its annual test and rating of 58 lotions, sprays and sticks, 20 sunscreens tested at less than half of their labeled SPF number, said CR, noting that it was the fifth year in a row where many failed to provide an adequate level of protection in their tests. The 15 products that tested best at CR included a mix of well-known sun care market leaders like La Roche-Posay and Banana Boat, and private labels, such as an SPF 50 spray sold under the Trader Joe’s banner and Equate Sport Lotion SPF 50, which is owned by Walmart.
Despite testing more formulations and including products with higher concentrations of the active ingredients than it had before, the Consumer Reports staff lamented once again that they could not find a mineral-based sunscreen—often referred to as “natural” sunscreens—that delivers the whole package: top-notch UVA and UVB protection. The natural sunscreen that ranked highest was California Kids #Supersensitive Lotion SPF 30+, which finished with an overall “good” rating thanks to some mixed results. CR said it recorded very good score for UVB protection, an excellent variation from SPF rating, but only fair for UVA protection.
In its report, CR editors suggested that if consumers were unable to find one of its 15 recommended products, they should look for a sunscreen labeled with an “SPF of at least 40 that contains chemical active ingredients such as avobenzone rather than ‘natural’ or mineral active ingredients such as zinc oxide.”
Leading the Way
Companies with well-known and legacy properties such as Coppertone (Bayer), Banana Boat and Hawaiian Tropic (both Edgewell), command leadership positions within the mass market side of the sun care category. According to IRI, sales of suntan lotion at US multi-outlets for the 52 weeks ended Dec. 31, 2017 were relatively stable at $1.21 billion (down just 0.44%). Edgewell leads the big three followed by Neutrogena and Bayer (see chart below).
Johnson & Johnson’s powerhouse Neutrogena brand has been pushing its skin care expertise further to grow its share of the sun care category.
“We are constantly investing in education, technology and innovation, to provide consumers with the best products and tools to enable them to live a sun safe lifestyle,” Ehsan Sarrafian, senior brand manager, Neutrogena Sun Care, told Happi.
For instance, the brand continues to work on aesthetics, which continues as a main reason why consumers don’t wear protection.
“At Neutrogena, we’ve already innovated to create high-performing sunscreens that don’t feel like sunscreens. Consumers can expect more of that this summer with new Hydro Boost SPF 30 and 50 Sunscreens, which bring our most advanced hydrating skin care technology to sun care. Hydro Boost provides powerful protection that quenches skin with hydration and feels water-light, for everyday wear,” Sarrafian said.
Accounting for as much as 50% of the category, sprays are uber popular due to their convenience, but consumers can end up dissatisfied when spots are missed. Neutrogena is making advancements here as well with new Ultra Sheer and CoolDry Sport FullReach sprays.
“The package design incorporates a handle to extend your reach for hard to get to spots,” according to Sarrafian.
In addition, the J&J brand is also leading with higher SPFs, and recently had a study published in the Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology (JAAD) that shows Neutrogena SPF100+ broad spectrum sunscreen was significantly more effective in protecting against sunburn than an SPF50+ broad spectrum sunscreen, in actual use settings, according to the company.
“This kind of real-world science demonstrates the benefit of sunscreen in everyday life,” said Sarrafian.
But getting consumers to follow that practice remains a challenge.
“Roughly one third of American households are using sunscreen each year, and this has remained stagnant for years. Among those using sunscreen, frequency of use has also been flat. Making simple, sun-safe habits a part of your everyday routine is one of the best things you can do for the health of your skin. It isn’t just for the beach. Getting kids to pick up sun-safe habits doesn’t have to be hard and can help set them up for a lifetime of healthy, happy days in the sun,” Sarrafain noted. “We are partnering with dermatologists and other experts to offer consumers tips and tools to help change their family sunscreen usage habits.”
Leading brand La Roche-Posay has been using technology to help consumers improve their sun care habits. As a follow up to the 2016 launch of My UV Patch, the brand this year unveiled UV Sense, the first battery-free wearable electronic UV sensor, at CES in Last Vegas.
According to the L’Oréal-owned brand, consumer studies showed that My UV Patch had a positive impact on the sun safety behaviors of consumers—with 34% applying sunscreen more often and 37% trying to stay in the shade more frequently. It expects bigger things from the smaller UV Sense, which measures individual UV exposure and can store up to three months of data and show trends of exposure over time with instant updates. At less than two millimeters thick and nine millimeters in diameter, UV Sense is designed to be worn on the thumbnail—a part of the body that receives optimal sunlight, so consumers can increase wear time to several weeks and can reapply with adhesive that is included in the pack. UV Sense will be available on a limited basis in the US for the 2018 summer season with a global launch next year.
La Roche-Posay is also focused on topicals, of course, and its R&D staff continues to innovate within its popular Anthelios franchise. Following the 2016 launch of Anthelios Clear Skin, an oil-free sunscreen that doesn’t cause breakouts, and Anthelios Dermo Kids Gentle Sunscreen lotion last year, the brand set its focus on people’s motivation behind exercising and their sun safety behavior while exercising outdoors. In its research, La Roche-Posay found that while 76% of respondents cite health as the main motivation for exercising (beating out weight management, social and mood related motivations) and 75% said that exercise was their preferred way to improve their health, only 32% claimed to wear sunscreen always/very often when exercising outdoors.
The brand dug deeper to find out what sunscreen characteristic would motivate users to wear sunscreen more often when exercising outside, and the top two answers were related to sweat and sensitive skin. In response, La Roche-Posay’s big launch this season is new Anthelios 60 Sport Activewear Lotion Sunscreen, a heavy-duty lotion developed specifically to protect sensitive skin and help absorb sweat during outdoor activities. It features a unique dry-touch texture formulated with natural Perlite, a volcanic mineral that can absorb more than two times its weight in water and oil. When first applied to the skin, the lotion is visible to ensure optimal application and then blends well until it’s invisible. Its formulation, including an innovative powder complex, enables it to go on dry and stay on skin to absorb moisture, according to the brand, which excluded fragrance, parabens, oils, oxybenzone and retinyl palmitate from the mix.
Other Voices
While the large players often dominate the discussion and shelves at major retailers, there is sea of smaller brands vying for consumer’s attention. Often, these brands tap into specific lifestyles, and formulate with specific ingredients to help set their lotions, sprays and sticks apart from the competition.
California-based upscale sunscreen brand Coola is set to roll out new SKUs this month including Organic SPF 30 360° Sun Silk Drops, full spectrum organic skin care that is said to be light-as-air yet protects against broad spectrum UVA/UVB, IR (infrared), and HEV (high energy visible) light to keep users covered from beach to boardroom. Chemists incorporated hyaluronic acid to help replenish and make skin appear supple and smooth; Elix-IR Extract, which reduces visible signs of photoaging and appearance of wrinkles due to IR rays; and Liposhield, which protects the skin from damaging high energy visible (HEV) light.
Coola’s 2018 launches also include an Organic SPF 30 Scalp & Hair Mist that offers a lightweight blend of plant extracts to promote the overall health of scalp and hair as it provides SPF 30 UVA/UVB protection. Ingredients include gotu extract, which improves blood circulation in the scalp, and monoi oil, which offers natural UV protection and improves the shine and condition of dry and damaged hair. The water resistant (80 min.) spray comes in a “Natural Ocean Salted Sage” scent.
Supergoop is also shedding new light on, well, a new light that can damage skin—blue light that is emitted from smartphones and computers. The San Antonio, TX -based brand founded by Holly Thaggard has unveiled Unseen Sunscreen, which is billed as an antioxidant-rich, invisible, weightless and scentless daily SPF that smooths and preps skin for makeup while providing full spectrum SPF 40 protection. The unique oil-free formula includes red algae, which helps protect against the harmful effects of blue light, and meadowfoam seed oil, which increases skin hydration.
Also for designed for daily use is Avene’s new Mineral Light Mattifying Suncreen Lotion SPF 50, an advanced sunscreen for acne-prone skin that offers the optimal efficacy of 100% mineral UVA/UVB filters as it controls oil and mattifies shine. The lotion, which delivers maximum water-resistance (80 min.), is formulated with Avene thermal spring water, titanium dioxide (5.5%), zinc oxide (8%), zinc gluconate (for anti-inflammatory benefits), and patent-pending Monolaurin. The latter is clinically proven to inhibit 5a-Reductase (the enzyme that triggers excess sebum) by 34%, oil production by 33% and the proliferation of sebocytes by 68%, according to the brand, which is dispensed at physician’s offices and authorized retailers and is also sold online at www.aveneusa.com.
Beyond Coastal, a brand that ranked high on EWG’s list last year, is looking to solve facial skin needs of athletes and outdoor enthusiasts with its Active Face Stick, which is formulated for high exposure areas and provides shelter from UVA rays with avobenzone SPF 30 that effectively blocks 97% of sunburn-causing UVB rays. The non-greasy formula is easy to rub in and acts as a wind-chap to keep your face protected during high altitude sports such as skiing and ultra-running.
“Eighty percent of sunscreen is comprised of inactive ingredients and instead of using cheap, unhealthy fillers, Beyond Coastal uses ingredients such as aloe vera, yerba mate, larch tree, rose hip and shea butter that hydrate, repair and nourish the skin while protecting it against both UVA and UVB harmful rays,” marketing director Colleen Gilligan told Happi.
Stick application keeps hands clean and dry as the sunscreen is applied directly to the face, nose and ears so there is no taking off ski gloves or getting product on fingers when casting a fly-fishing line. Those benefits are well-suited for a brand that’s targeting a core consumer group.
“As a brand that has always been for athletes, by athletes, Beyond Coastal is going back to its roots with its newly revamped ambassador program,” according to Gilligan. The brand will support a team of athlete ambassadors, those who spend hours, days and even weeks at high altitudes, on the water, on snow, and in extreme conditions and will rely on them to test, provide feedback and help spread awareness about the importance of the right sunscreen options for athletes.
Another brand with an outdoor heritage is Raw Elements USA. This growing company, founded by a former lifeguard, is keenly concerned about protection of more than just skin. The Rhode Island-based brand is addressing concerns about the impact of sunscreens on ocean life.
“People are starting to really look at the ingredients in their sunscreens and determine what is safe for them as well as the ocean,” said Brian Guadagno, who founded the company in 2011.
Guadagno told Happi that Raw Elements has made “major headway in Hawaii,” a state that is currently trying to ban the sale of sunscreen with certain chemicals (oxybenzone). “Because our products only use non-nano zinc oxide, we are one of the only reef-safe options,” he said, noting that his brand can be found on the islands from hotels to sailing charters to ABC stores.
Raw Elements is growing in other ways too; this month, Raw Elements products are available in REI, the outdoor co-op retailer, and just in time for spring it will unveil new packaging and add SKUs. It is bringing back its Moisturizing Daily Scrub and adding a Revitalizing Skin Tonic. The company developed sunscreen dispensers too, which were available on Narragansett Beach this past summer and will be on-site at the Surfjack Hotel on Oahu, Gemini Sailing Charters on Maui, and Holoholo Charters on Kauai. And, Raw Elements is also readying a new lightweight version of its formula that is due out later this year.
Indie brand owners like Guadagno know hard work and persistence can pay off.
“We are definitely still in the brand awareness-building phase, but because of the quality of our ingredients and efficacy of our formulas, people are finding us. We’ve really been focusing on digital marketing to reach new people. There aren’t many reef-safe sunscreens, non-GMO sunscreens or EWG No. 1 rated sunscreens out there besides us. Our mission is to be the safest, most effective sunscreen on the planet,” he said.
As winter winds down, the US sun care executives that Happi interviewed seem primed for the summer season. They have invested in their business by looking at new ways to boost performance, enhance the user experience and minimize the environmental impact of their lotions, sprays and sticks. Although sales have been relatively flat, the good news is smaller players are expanding their retail presence. This should benefit their bottom line and give consumers access to more products—and perhaps that next purchase will become someone’s go-to brand. After all, as dermatologists can attest, proper sun protection from a sunscreen comes only when consumers commit to wearing it.
Said Dr. Rigel, “I tell [my [patients] that the best sunscreen is the one they like to use, because they are likely to use it daily.”
Below is a list of new ingredients for sun care formulations introduced by suppliers.
For more information on the ingredients listed, please contact the companies directly using the information provided.
AAK
Edison, NJ
Tel.: 973-741-5009
Email: john.okeefe@aak.com
Website: www.aakpersonalcare.com
Lipex SheaLight
INCI: Shea butter ethyl esters Applications: Solubilizer, sensorial and performance enhancer, sustainability
Use levels: 1-25%
Comments: Eco-designed and sustainable. Produced using low energy processes from shea butter and ethanol from agricultural sources. Low viscosity, high polarity with silky, non-oily afterfeel. Good solubilizer of solid organic UV filters and excellent dispersant for inorganic UV filters. Lipex SheaLight does not break down on UV exposure and is not phototoxic.
Lipex PreAct
INCI: Canola oil
Applications: Photoprotection and reduced skin irritation, sustainability
Use levels: 2-5%
Comments: Lipex PreAct protects skin pro- teins and lipids against photo-oxidation, delivering functionality to reduce skin damage and environmental stress induced by UV exposure. It is highly suitable for use in sun-care and other formulations for outdoor use and products for sensitive and irritated skin due to its calming and soothing properties.
Lipex SheaTris
INCI: Butyrospermum parkii (shea) butter extract
Applications: Anti-inflammatory, protection against environmental stress, sustainability Use levels: 0.3-.0.5%
Comments: Lipex Shea Tris is a bioactive ingredient with 50-65% concentrate of triterpene esters. Lipex Shea Tris revitalizes the skin showing skin restoring, soothing and protecting properties. Lipex Shea Tris protects skin collagen structures and is shown to reduce inflammation markers such as TNF-a and PGE-2 after an exposure of 4 MED UVA+UVB.
Arista Industries, Inc.
Wilton, CT
Tel.: 203-761-1009
Email: info@aristaindustries.com
Website: www.aristaindustries.com
Almond Oil
INCI: Prunus amygdalas dulcis (sweet almond) oil
Applications: sunscreens and after sun products
Use levels: 1-100% depending on formula
Comments: Almond Oil has a minimal SPF and can be used in sunscreens. It is a mild oil, rich in vitamin E, which is an excellent moisturizer and emollient, and easily absorbed into the skin. Almond Oil moisturizes and softens skin and can be used in skin lotions, creams or moisturizers for after sun exposure.
Avocado Oil
INCI: Persea gratissima (avocado) oil
Applications: sunblock and sunscreens and after sun products
Use levels: 1-100% depending on formula
Comments: Avocado Oil protects from damaging UV rays and can be used as a natural SPF. Natural mono saturated fats protect skin to help prevent tanning and sun burn. Avocado Oil moisturizes and softens skin and can be used in skin lotions, creams or moisturizers for after sun exposure
Refined Wheat Germ Oil
INCI: Triticum vulgare (wheat) germ oil
Applications: sunblock and sunscreens and after sun products
Use levels: 1-100% depending on formula
Comments: Wheat Germ Oil has a fairly high natural SPF and can be used in sunblock and sunscreens to protect from damaging UV rays. Containing, natural vitamin E and natural antioxidants, it can be used in skin lotions, creams or moisturizers for after sun exposure as these can help protect and repair sun damaged skin.
Ashland
Bridgewater, NJ
Tel.: 877-546-2782
Website: Ashland.com/personalcare
Ganex sensory polymer
INCI: VP/acrylates/lauryl methacrylate copolymer
Applications: Sunscreen emulsions and anhydrous face and body care, color cosmetics
Use levels: 0.5-1.0%
Comments: Ganex Sensory polymer is a water dispersible polymer that has a unique hydrophobic character, capable of forming a mesh over the sunscreen film that will lay on the skin. The mesh protects the film, giving it great water resistance and imparting a superior sensory feel when the formulation dries.
BASF
Florham Park, NJ
Tel.: +1-973-245-6144
Email: anna.gripp@basf.com
Z-Cote, Z-Cote-HP1, Z-Cote LSA
INCI: Z-Cote (Zinc oxide); Z-Cote O-HP1 and Z-Cote LSA (Zinc oxide (and) triethoxycaprylylsilane)
Applications: sun care
Use levels: US and most countries—up to 25%
Comments: Inorganic broad-spectrum UV absorption; Enables elegant and gentle formulations; Photo-stable; Z-Cote and and Z-Cote LSA-UC are uncoated; Z-Cote and Z-Cote HP 1 are nano-sized aprticles; Z-Cote LSA aprticles >/= >100 nm
Centerchem, Inc.
Norwalk, CT
Tel.: 203-822-9800
Email: cosmetics@centerchem.com
Website: www.centerchem.com
Pepha-Age
INCI: Scenedesmus rubescens extract
Use levels: 1.00-3.0%
Applications: Skin care products
Comments: Pepha-Age contains an extract of freshwater microalgae Scenedesmus rubescens (green algae), which provides high biological resistance toward UV and blue light. Pepha-Age is produced by using a sustainable biotech process in state-of-the-art photobioreactors and contains a unique mixture of amino acids, vitamins (B3), algal saccharides and minerals. Pepha-Age stimulates the skin’s own defense against UV and blue light, helping to minimize the appearance of aging. Pepha-Age protects skin against sunlight induced epidermal damage while stimulating Collagen III (youth collagen). Pepha-Age improves skin’s overall appearance.
Grant Industries
Elmwood Park, NJ
Tel.: 201-791-6700
Email: info@grantinc.com
Website: www.grantinc.com
Granpowder QSC
INCI: Polymethylsilsesquioxane/Silica Crosspolymer
Applications: Sun care, skin care, body care, and color cosmetics
Use levels: 1-5%
Comments: Performance benefits include excellent slip and sensory aesthetics, soft focus effect, strong detackifying properties associated with glycols and/or rheology modifiers, and the ability to remove the greasy feel of chemical UV filters. Designed for the aqueous phase of formulations Granpowder QSC has the unique ability to absorb both water and oil.
INOLEX, Inc.
Philadelphia, PA
Tel.: 215-271-0800
Email: answers@inolex.com
Website: Inolex.com
LexFilm Sun Natural
INCI: Capryloyl glycerin/sebacic acid copolymer
Applications: Sun care, skin care, color cosmetics, natural products
Comments: LexFilm Sun Natural is a plant-based, multi-dimensional polymer for sun care application derived entirely from renewable and sustainable building-blocks and is pending NSF, Ecocert and Cosmos certifications. A hydroxyl functional, crosslinked polymer with controlled degree of polymerization, LexFilm Sun Natural is optimized for sensorial and performance and is a pourable viscous fluid that imparts consistent aesthetic appeal as well aa an ideal pigment dispersant for inorganic filters.
Jeen International Corporation
Fairfield, NJ
Tel.: 973-439-1401
Email: info@jeen.com
Website: www.jeen.com
Jeesperse Zo-Oo-50
INCI: Zinc oxide (and) olive oil
Applications: Sun care and sunscreens (organic and inorganic), after-sun treatment emulsions, baby care products
Use levels: up to 50% (check region specific limits)
Comments: This all-natural ingredient is a stable, high solids (50%) dispersion of micro-fine zinc oxide in olive oil. Jeesperse Zo-Oo-50 is manufactured using an advanced proprietary technology to maintain a consistent narrow particle size distribution (PSD) without agglomeration or the need to pre-treat the product. The controlled PSD minimizes and greatly diminishes the negative “whitening” effects typically associated with using zinc oxide. This easy-to-use dispersion blends in quickly contributing to production efficiencies and highest SPF Value in finished products without agglomeration and an extensive manufacturing process.
Jeesperse ICE-T CIS-2
INCI: PEG-150 distearate (and) cetearyl alcohol (and) polyquaternium-37
Applications: Sun care and sunscreens, skin care, hair care
Use levels: 0.5-10%
Comments: Jeesperse ICE-T CIS-2 is a patented cationic emulsifier in a simple-to-use, free-flowing powder. This unique emulsifier base can transform simple formulations into elegant, sophisticated emulsions mimicking the aesthetics of luxurious ingredients without the need or expense of adding sensorial boosting ingredients. Jeesperse ICE-T CIS-2 will impart a silky powdery finish even with extremely high oil loads making it an ideal ingredient for sun care formulations.
Lonza
South Plainfield, NJ
Tel.: 908-561-5200
Email: lonzapc.arch@lonza.com
Website: www.lonza.com/personalcare
LaraCare A200
INCI: Galactoarabinan
Applications: Skin care, sun care
Use levels: 1-5%
Comments: LaraCare A200 is a naturally occurring galactoarabinan for moisture retention and SPF boosting. It can be used to enhance the UV protection delivered by a sunscreen without increasing the concentration of sunscreen and also reduces transepidermal water loss (TEWL). It is approved by Ecocert in ecological and organic certified cosmetics.
Mibelle Biochemistry
Buchs, Switzerland
Tel.: +41 62 836 17 31
Email: info@mibellebiochemistry.com
Website: www.mibellebiochemistry.com
InfraGuard
INCI: Caesalpinia spinosa fruit extract (and) propylene glycol (and) helianthus annuus (sunflower) sprout extract (and) sodium benzoate (and) phenoxyethanol (and) aqua/water
Applications: Shampoos, conditioners, masks, styling products, color protection products, heat protection formula
Use levels: 0.5-2%
Comments: InfraGuard which combines the powerful antioxidant tannins of the tara tree and sunflower sprouts which activate cellular energy is efficient in combating free radicals caused by infrared and blue light radiation. A clinical trial with an SPF30 sun cream clearly showed extra protection by adding 2% InfraGuard.
Sensient Cosmetic Technologies
South Plainfield, NJ
Tel.: 908-757-4500
Email: cosmeticsonline@sensient.com
Website: www.sensient-cosmetics.com/
UVR TiO2 AS
INCI: TiO2 (and) triethoxycaprylylsilane
Applications: Sun care, makeup SPF
Use levels: Max 25%
Comments: UVR TiO2 AS is a high performance coated rutile TiO2 designed to meet changing global regulations. The alkyl silane coating of this ultrafine grade improves hydrophobicity and increases the dispersibility in oils and silicones while enhancing the wear resistance. The ultra fine UVR TiO2 AS particles drastically decrease the whitening effect of TiO2 in sun care and SPF make-up applications. Because consumer safety matters more than ever, this product meets the highest quality standard by being registered as an Active Pharmaceutical Ingredient with the FDA.
CovaScreen UVR CCT
INCI: Caprylic/capric triglyceride (and) TiO2 (and) triethoxycaprylylsilane
Applications: Sun care, makeup SPF
Use levels: Max 40%
Comments: CovaScreen UVR CCT is an advanced dispersion of UVRTiO2 AS, Sensient’s FDA registered high performance ultrafine TiO2. Designed for low whitening sun care and makeup application, CovaScreen UVR CCT facilitates the formulation of formulations designed for sun protection.
NatPure Film GR
INCI: Glyceryl rosinate (and) aqua (and) cellulose (and) sodium sulfate
Applications: Sun care, makeup
Use levels: 1-20%
Comments: NatPure Film GR is a revolutionary natural water resistant film-former that displays better performance than traditional synthetic film-formers. It is based on ingredients sourced from Finnish pine trees and was eco-designed to meet formulator’s sustainability goals. It sharply increases the water resistance of makeup and sun care formulations by preserving SPF values even after immersion.
Shin-Etsu Silicones of America
Akron, OH
Tel.: 330-630-9860, 800-544-1745
Website: www.shinetsusilicones.com, www.silicones.jp
KF-56A
INCI: Diphenylsiloxy phenyl trimethicone
Suggested use levels: 1-20%
Applications: Color cosmetics—foundation, eyeshadow, mascara, lipstick, etc.; Skin lotions and creams; Sun care products—lotions, creams, self-tanners; Hair care products: shine spray, serum.
Comments: KF-56A is a 100% active, clear, water-white, odorless, and high purity phenyl functionalized silicone fluid. The product is designed to offer excellent organic compatibility, high shine and light feel. The high phenyl contents offer high refractive indices. In addition to high shine and gloss, they mask the white residue in antiperspirants and reduce the whitening in sunscreens containing physical UV filters. The phenyl groups also provide compatibility with organic emollients and organic UV filters. The product provides enhance performance benefits for various cosmetic formulations including hair care, skin care, sun care and color cosmetics.
KSG-320
INCI name: Isododecane (and) PEG 15/lauryl dimethicone crosspolymer
Suggested use levels: 1-10%
Applications: Skin lotions and creams; anti-aging products; sun care products—sprays, gels, lotions, creams, self-tanners; fragrance gels; serums; color cosmetics—foundations, eyeshadows, mascaras, lipsticks, blushers, etc.; hair styling products—pomades, gels, cuticle coats, emulsions, serums, etc.
Comments: Shin-Etsu Silicones’ KSG-320 is a self-emulsifying elastomer gel in isododecane. The active elastomer gel has an innovative and unique 3D structure in that the silicone polymer network is crosslinked with polyether groups and additionally grafted with alkyl (C12) groups. The product is designed to be a broad spectrum emulsifier for both water-in-silicone and water-in-oil emulsions. The grafted alkyl groups allow the polymer to swell in both organic and silicone carriers. It can stabilize emulsions with an internal phase ranging from low to ultra-high. Co-emulsifier(s) is optional for emulsion particle size control and optimization. The products are made with a proprietary process with essentially no odor. KSG-320 is designed to be versatile, easy to use, and to create formulations with a wide variety of textures and emollient choices. The formulated products are exceptional in skin feel. Compared with conventional emulsifiers, KSG-320 can stabilize emulsions with much larger particle size distribution with water-breaking properties. Ambient process is the norm when ingredients do not require heat. Low energy process is preferred provided there is good mixing; low energy homogenization is acceptable but not necessary.
KSG-18A
INCI name: Diphenylsiloxy phenyl trimethicone (and) dimethicone/phenyl vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer
Suggested use levels: Emulsions (2-25%); Anhydrous (15-90%); Hair products (1-30%)
Applications: Skin lotions and creams; anti-aging products; sun care products— lotions, creams, self-tanners; fragrance gels; color cosmetics—foundations, eye shadows, mascaras, lipsticks, blushers, etc; anhydrous serums, gels, waxes; hair styling products—cuticle coats, gels, emulsions, etc.
Comments: Shin-Etsu Silicone’s KSG silicone elastomer is part of a patented multifunctional sensory enhancer series designed to be a cost-effective and elegant solutions for the formulation chemists. KSG-18A is a phenyl modified silicone gel in a low viscosity phenyl modified emollient carrier. The product offers an exceptional cushion (from the elastomer gel), silky, smooth and elegant skin feel during application. The product dries down to a silky, powdery after feel with long lasting effects. The product is designed to be an effective thickener for silicone oils as well as low molecular weight organic esters and oils. When added to the oil phase, it helps to stabilize both W/O and O/W emulsions. It is the sensory choice that delivers a luxurious skin feel.
