Melissa Meise, Associate Editor07.02.18
Consumers are looking outside brick-and-mortar settings to make shopping easier. It is not uncommon these days to click and buy a favorite body lotion, lipstick or soap on Amazon.com, Target.com or even Sephora.com rather than take a trip to the store. But while online shopping is almost universal in the US, over half (53%) of Americans are concerned about the safety of products bought online, according to research from Mintel.
But it’s not just product safety that is worrying shoppers, as almost eight in ten (78%) consumers are concerned about the freshness of items they buy online as well.
Preservatives are a key player in keeping a personal care product clean, crisp and competent.
“Americans are exercising caution when shopping online as they believe that purchasing in store is the most trustworthy way to determine the safety, quality and/or freshness of the items they buy,” explained Matt Lindner, senior e-commerce analyst at Mintel. While online shopping is becoming more convenient, online retailers still have yet to fully replicate the in-store experience of discovering a product in person. As a result, retailers have to go above and beyond in terms of offering more product information and anticipating any potential concerns from shoppers. In doing so, consumers will have less hesitation about adding a product to their online shopping cart and subsequently completing a purchase.”
The American Chemistry Council (ACC) reported that US specialty chemicals market volumes started the second quarter on a strong note, increasing 0.9% in April after an upwardly revised 0.5% gain in March and a 0.3% gain in February. Specialty chemicals are materials manufactured on the basis of the unique performance or function and provide a wide variety of effects on which many other sectors and end-use products rely—this includes preservatives.
Leaders in today’s preservatives sector took time to chat with Happi about the latest developments in the industry.
A Bit About Our Experts…
Pat Lutz, president/owner, Lincoln Manufacturing-USA, Lincoln, RI: Lincoln Manufacturing has more than 30 years of preservative experience in microbiology, analytical and innovation design and specializes in customizing preservative systems. With the manufacturing located in the US, the customers get to work directly with the microbiologist, chemist and owner to reduce speed to market.
Albert Babik, general manager, Jeen International Corporation, Fairfield, NJ: Jeen International manufactures and sells an extensive line of traditional and novel preservatives with broad spectrum efficacy. The firm has supplied isothiazolinone and paraben-free options for more than 15 years and continues to refine its offer with solutions tailored to customers’ demands.
Linda B. Sedlewicz, country manager, schülke inc., Fairfield, NJ: schülke has been protecting people and products from harmful microorganisms since 1889 when it invented Lysol. The firm’s first preservative for personal care came in 1978 with the introduction of euxyl K 100, a product that is still widely used throughout the world today. Schülke’s sole focus is on antimicrobial protection of people (outside of North America) and products (globally). This gives the company a deep understanding of preservation issues and actives. Schulke’s goal is to be a resource for its customers.
Andrea Wingenfeld, global marketing manager, preservatives, Ashland, Memmingen, Germany: Ashland has more than 50 years of experience in antimicrobial technologies, targeting the personal care market. A global solutions provider for different market needs, Ashland provides unique preservative solutions that offer its customers the best value and support for their preservative needs. Besides inventing the Germall II and Germall 115 workhorses, the firm is constantly developing new antimicrobial technologies to address modern preservative needs. Ashland’s global technical support enables its customers to determine the optimum choice and dosage levels of antimicrobial technologies, and the company’s application experts in skin and hair care are a great resource for formulation-related questions.
Aysel Calkap, technical marketing manager – preservation, NAFTA, Lonza Ltd., Allendale, NJ: Preservation is a fundamental element of many Lonza business units, and consumer product ingredients is no exception. For many years, Lonza has remained proud to offer a comprehensive range of preservation systems to the global home care and personal care markets, a wide-ranging portfolio of single active and blended preservatives that capably offers: traditional, non-traditional and novel technologies; wide global acceptance and regulatory compliance; broad spectrum efficacy; robust data packages; extensive substrate compatibility; innovative and market-focused R&D; industry-leading regulatory and toxicology expertise.
Fana Makonnen, global technical marketing manager, INOLEX, Philadelphia: The company is a leading expert in alternative preservations that allow for the creation of formulations that pass challenge tests without the inclusion of traditional preservatives by using Hurdle Technology. Hurdle Technology is a formulation approach to preservation where a combination of multifunctional ingredients and other formulation factors such as pH, along with good manufacturing principles, are used as hurdles for microbes in the process preventing microbial growth.
Nicholas A. Arellano, technical marketing manager, preservatives, Coast Southwest, Placentia, CA: Coast Southwest is a leading full-service, chemical distribution and ingredient technology company. The firm supplies a vast array of commodity and specialty ingredients to the personal care market. A cornerstone of its business model is leveraging pivotal relationships with leading suppliers for its customers’ benefit. In preservatives, that supplier is Sharon Laboratories, a globally recognized manufacturer with ISO-certified production facilities in Israel and Brazil. Sharon has been its strategic partner in preservatives for more than two decades. Sharon brings 40-plus years of experience delivering classic preservatives, “free of” alternatives, and naturally derived, advanced products which can be options for rinse-off, leave-on, wipes, and baby-oriented products. Within Sharon’s portfolio there is a preservative solution to meet all the latest preferences and regulations in personal care.
Jessica Byrd, field marketing manager, Vertellus, Parsippany, NJ: With roots in the oral care business, Vertellus has spent more than 40 years perfecting the molecule cetyl pyridium chloride (CPC), with a zero percent failure rate in the market, into a tried and true preservative for the personal care industry. Under the trademarked, Freshstat family of preservatives, Vertellus has optimized an answer to the dynamic and ever changing market and consumer need to not only lower levels of preservatives, but to find replacements for preservatives like parabens, CMIT/MIT, formaldehyde donors, phenoxyethanol and others.
Happi: What are your workhorse or go-to preservatives, and what are their benefits in the household and personal care marketplace?
Lutz: At Lincoln, Linatural Ultra-3 is an all-natural multifunctional, Cosmos-certified, globally-approved, wide pH, low odor, broad spectrum system for personal care and works well for household where it is CleanGredients listed.
Linatural MBS-1 is a naturally derived, globally approved, patented, mild, water soluble, broad spectrum preservative system. It works great as a mild alternative in lower pH water formulations like baby products, facial toners, serums and all personal care products.
Lincoserve WpH-LO is an alternative, globally-approved, broad-spectrum, multifunctional system that is free of phenoxyethanol, parabens, formaldehyde and isothiazolinones. WpH-LO does not interfere with viscosity, is low odor and covers wide pH of formulations.
Babik: Jeecide CAP series leverages the boosting power of caprylyl glycol with phenoxyethanol and a few optimizers for tailored solutions in a variety of systems. Jeecide AA Series leverages market acceptance of benzyl alcohol coupled with benzoic and sorbic acids for select systems.
Sedlewicz: Our workhorse product is euxyl PE 9010. This patent-protected blend was introduced as a substitute for more traditional phenoxyethanol/paraben mixtures and can be used at the same use levels. This broad-spectrum liquid is easy to incorporate into most formulas; temperature and pH stable; and can be incorporated into clear systems. euxyl K 900 substitutes benzyl alcohol for phenoxyethanol and is equally effective in formulas that can be preserved by euxyl PE 9010.
In addition, schülke offers the only stabilized ethylhexylgly-cerin available to personal care. Our patented stabilization method gives our sensiva SC 50 a shelf-life of 36 months, with no risk of oxidative darkening or change in odor, which could adversely affect a finished product. Both euxyl PE 9010 and sensiva SC 50 are Halal-certified. We expect to have all of our personal care products Halal-certified within the next year.
Wingenfeld: Optiphen preservative (INCI: Phenoxyethanol, caprylyl glycol) provides modern, broad-spectrum activity in a wide pH range and excellent global market reputation
Germall II (INCI: Diazolidinyl urea) and Germall 115 (INCI: Imidazolidinyl urea) preservatives are classic robust technologies, easy to incorporate into personal care products, very effective against bacteria, with synergistic activity when combined with other preservatives.
Calkap: Geogard Ultra is a Cosmos-compliant broad-spectrum preservative, benefitting from a unique potentiated sodium benzoate system. Strongly aligning with the demands of today’s naturally-minded personal care formulator, Geogard Ultra is particularly suitable for difficult-to-preserve substrates such as baby wipes and sheet masks; Glycacil L is based on the popular and trusted antifungal preservative IPBC (iodopropynyl butylcarbamate). Offering wide formulation latitude solution and ease of addition, Glycacil L remains a lead candidate for personal care formulators wishing to ensure the optimal antifungal control for their end products.
Proxel AQ is a zero-VOC aqueous solution which delivers the reliable broad spectrum home care preservative BIT (1,2-benzisothiazolin-3-one), widely-recognized as one of the most versatile, compatible and trusted broad-spectrum preservatives available throughout the global home care markets. One of a number of Lonza preservatives listed within CleanGredients, Proxel AQ can be considered as pre-approved by the EPA for use in Safer Choice-labelled end products
Makonnen: Since 2008, INOLEX has offered a range of the systems, containing the proprietary Caprylhydroxamic Acid technology or CHA. CHA is a chelating agent and organic acid that can provide broad spectrum protection at higher pH in combination with diols or aromatic alcohols.
The CHA Series, which includes Spectrastat G2-N (Caprylhydroxamic acid (and) glyceryl caprylate (and) glycerin) an NSF certified, 100% plant-based option, offers a range that includes cold processed options Sapectrastat OL and Spectrastat OEL optimized for wipe applications, Spectrastat BHL and Spectrastat PHL optimized for face-mask and other sensitive skin application and Zeastat an option that allows the incorporation of CHA technology for yeast and mold control potentially with existing systems or components. The CHA technology has received high acceptance as a result of very high efficacy.
Arellano: Three workhorses or go-to preservatives from Sharon Laboratories that we have seen the most interest in from customers include Biomix Free CG, a “preservative-free” claim option for the industry. It is free of parabens, formaldehyde donors and free of phenoxyenthanol. This preservative option is also broad spectrum, has a pH range of 3.0-9.0, low use level, and is good for rinse-off and leave-on applications
Biosecur C160S is USDA organic and certified, Cosmos approved, and GRAS approved. This preservative option has a pH range of 3.0-9.0, and is good for rinse-off and leave-on applications.
Biomix Pure 1 is a naturally derived, broad spectrum preservative with a pH range of 3.0-9.0, low use level, and is good for rinse-off and leave-on applications.
Byrd: Freshstat is a versatile, safe and cost-effective preservative with an excellent safety profile. It is colorless, odorless, and formaldehyde free. Effective over a broad pH range, Freshstat exhibits broad spectrum antimicrobial efficacy against gram-positive and gram-negative bacteria, yeast and mold. Freshstat is compatible with nonionics, cationic and some anionic formulations. The active ingredient, CPC, is biodegradable and is an excellent alternative to commonly used preservatives. In solution, a neutral pH of 6 will remain stable under a wide variety of conditions.
Freshstat Plus is a proprietary mixture of CPC and benzoic acid in propylene glycol. Surfactant-based shampoos, body washes and hand soaps exhibit unique properties of anionic surfactant-based systems that are much harder to preserve for mold species. Therefore, Freshstat Plus has been specifically designed for use in anionic surfactant systems to boost the efficacy against hard to combat mold species in formulation. With the addition of Freshstat Plus, excellent microbial efficacy for Aspergillus brasiliensis and other mold species in water is achieved.
Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS) finalized a favorable opinion for CPC in cosmetics. CPC has been safely used for decades in US FDA-approved oral care and food processing applications. It is approved for use as a preservative in cosmetics in Japan by the Ministry of Health and Welfare. CPC was found effective in preservative challenge studies with a wide range of organisms.
Happi: Are there any new products/launches for 2018 you’d like to highlight and/or preservative technologies/products that you believe are under-utilized in your current stable?
Lutz: LinPro-MP series is a novel approach to protect formulations from microbial contamination while not being classified as a preservative. LinPro line was designed with customer input of wanting an alternative to typical preservatives such as glycols, diols, phenoxyethanol, and other conventional types. LinPro is part of a multiple filed patent.
Babik: We continue to explore boosters and highlight the conditions for their peak performance to design specialized preservative systems. We are looking beyond all the diols and glycols to find the right optimizing system that will be broad-spectrum without necessarily compromising end customer formulations.
Sedlewicz: Many customers are looking for preservatives that can be used in compliance with the various natural certification bodies globally. schülke’s euxyl K 903 is a broad-spectrum blend of benzyl alcohol and organic acids. This blend is stabilized using natural tocopherol, not only making it less susceptible to oxidation (color change) than other similar blends, but also compliant with many natural certification bodies requirements.
Wingenfeld: Optimizing the delivery of preservatives is essential to the viability of next-generation preservative systems. Ashland’s Optiphen P platform is the first preservative technology platform without alcoholic antimicrobials, based on an optimized delivery system. The delivery system serves to ostensibly maximize preservative efficacy without interfering or destabilizing cosmetic formulations, such as emulsions. The preservative products Optiphen DP and Optiphen DLP, offered within the Optiphen P platform, address today’s demands for cost-efficient preservatives that follow natural ingredient trends.
Calkap: Within 2018, Lonza is planning to launch its Proxel LS preservative into the US home care preservation market. Built around a highly-effective blend of BIT and sodium pyrithione, Proxel LS provides extraordinarily broad-spectrum protection with good temperature stability and formulation latitude within home care products—it is currently enjoying wide utilization within the industrial paints and coatings area. The introduction of Proxel LS into the home care area reaffirms Lonza’s commitment to offer the broadest and most active range of preservatives to an ever-demanding market.
Makonnen: CHA technology, which has seen tremendous growth since its launch in 2008, has expanded to provide alternative preservation options for all of beauty and personal care including cold process formulation. Part of the CHA technology expansion includes plant-based options Spectrastat G2-N and Zeastat. As more and more consumers demand natural ingredients which they deem as safe, Spectrastat-G2-N and Zeastat have been go-to options for a number of brands.
Arellano: Sharomix Amplify is a patent-pending, preservative line based on enhancing the efficacy of popular preservative systems to achieve the best antimicrobial results, so less preservative delivers more protection. Amplify accomplishes this through the use of a proprietary booster, in combination with other materials with antimicrobial activity, in a specific ratio, to deliver strong broad-spectrum protection. It features a reduced use level of 0.5% and is free from parabens, formaldehyde donors, halogens and isothiazolinone. Sharomix Amplify is highly compatible in formulas, and is odor-free and color-free. The addition of the booster has the ability to improve almost any known preservative solution currently in the market.
The second new release is the SharoSense Plus line. SharoSense Plus answers the need of the personal care industry for green and effective preservative systems. This line offers a natural-like solution, with increased solubility. SharoSense Plus combines the best features of natural ingredients, with the safety, quality and consistency of the lab, and is markedly strengthened by the role of cationic catalysis. This line is based on Maltol, a naturally-occurring organic compound and offers several solutions, suitable for a wide range of applications including leave-on, rinse-off and more.
Byrd: Vertellus is continuously working on new blends that provide customers with versatility, cost-in-use, and broad-spectrum efficacy in very challenging preservation environments that address the need for multifunctional performance and safe, synergy and uncompromised protection.
Happi: What are the needs of your customers and how have they changed in the past several years?
Lutz: Customers are looking to Lincoln MFG-USA for stability in domestic supply and preservative answers. Being a US-based company, customers are coming directly to us to solve their preservative issues.
Babik: The aim is to always mitigate and use the least amount of preservative while maintaining the highest level of efficacy possible. There is a strong trend toward using less and less preservative and as naturally derived as possible.
Sedlewicz: As more traditional preservatives have come under public scrutiny, the trend has been toward using multifunctional materials and preservative boosters. However, there are several considerations that must be kept in focus when making this change. First, these newer materials aren’t necessarily safer than traditional preservatives. They typically have less safety information available and significantly less history of use in personal care products. Most traditional preservatives have extensive safety dossiers and a long history of safe and effective use at typical use levels.
Many non-traditional preservation methods require much higher use levels than traditional methods. For this, and a variety of other reasons, these non-traditional methods must be considered very early in the development of a formula to avoid incompatibility and instability problems. They also increase the cost of the finished formula.
More importantly, from a microbiology standpoint, many non-traditional systems are not as effective as traditional systems. This shortens the shelf-life of the finished formula and increases the risk of contamination of the product; whether during production or in the hands of the consumer. All schülke products, traditional or non-traditional, must pass the same stringent testing for toxicity, stability and efficacy before we put our name on them. The schülke name stands for quality and efficacy in preservation in everything that we sell. Our goal is to provide the best products and support for all of our customers’ preservation needs.
Wingenfeld: Customers take a more holistic approach on preservation, one that is not only about antimicrobial performance and synergistic values. Environmental data, skin benefits and market reputation also are playing a large role in preservative selection.
Calkap: Last year, Lonza Consumer Product Ingredients launched its new global preservation strategy. This was in specific response to the changing and increasingly-challenging demands of the global preservation market and its stakeholders, better positioning Lonza as a preservation partner for the future. A move toward naturally-positioned products is one of the most apparent consumer shifts, along with a requirement for less controversial preservation and protection systems, be they delivered through regulated preservative actives or dependable multifunctional additives.
Makonnen: INOLEX has been a leader in adopting the formulation approach to preservation through Hurdle Technology and alternative preservation. As the change away from traditional preservatives has come in waves and increasingly so, brands are in search of non-traditional alternative preservation systems that meet their different formulation needs such as cold process or plant-based options.
Arellano: Our current customers are coming to us with requests for preservatives that are all-encompassing. With constant regulatory changes and consumer perceptions of preservatives becoming increasingly negative, the number of options available to formulation chemists and marketers alike substantially decreases. Therefore, finding a preservative or preservative blend that meets consumer expectations, regulatory requirements, and product efficacy has become arduous and more of an industry challenge. Because of Sharon’s rapidity and attention to industry concerns and needs, we have a portfolio of preservatives that will help all customers in all different regions of the world.
Byrd: Some of our consumers have come to us looking to have a proven preservative system in formulation. These consumers were market leaders in replacing traditional preservatives and found that some of the newer choices had not been on the market long enough to prove their performance over time. There is increased pressure to replace other traditional preservatives like phenoxyethanol that can perform just as well if not better in some formulations.
Happi: Are there regulatory issues/concerns on your radar screen regarding preservatives?
Babik: We continue to monitor the evolving regulatory environment, we are especially paying attention to phenoxyethanol and its continued negative stigma on various internet sites. Despite getting an endorsement from EU regulators that use of phenoxyethanol up to 1% is endorsed across the board, the negative comments that circulated persist, and some customers have already started looking for alternatives.
Sedlewicz: One of our major concerns is that regulatory bodies are being pressured by NGOs and other groups to place restriction on chemistries that are not based on science. Emotion and a general public misunderstanding of chemistry has led to regulators and marketing groups banning safe and effective traditional preservative in favor of preservation systems that have significantly less data and history. This has, in turn, increased the risk to the consumer of purchasing inadequately preserved products. The risk could be as simple as a change in the odor of the product or as serious as a contaminated product causing infection or, in the case of an eye area product, blindness. As an industry, we must fight to keep the preservative materials that we are currently still allowed to use, while maintaining high standards for safety and efficacy for any new materials that are introduced for this purpose.
Wingenfeld: The shrinking list of allowed preservatives is now commonly referred to as a crisis by industry and regulators alike. Ashland is an active member of the European Federation for Cosmetic Ingredients, which has a dedicated working group for preservatives. Collaboration between suppliers, customers, regulatory authorities and their scientific committees is key in tackling this crisis.
We also welcome the news that Cosmetics Europe has launched a product preservation program, and Ashland expects to work with it as a key supplier to the personal care industry.
Calkap: Absolutely. As a stakeholder group of ingredient suppliers, formulators, retailers, consumers, NGOs and regulators, there needs to be strong coherency and transparency within the global preservation industry. This means responsibility in how preservatives are used, recognition as to their invaluableness in protecting consumer safety, and importantly, a move away from continuing the denigration of preservatives by bandied-around ‘free-from’ claims.
Makonnen: Absolutely! With fewer and fewer traditional preservatives available to formulators as a result of regulatory and safety restrictions globally, we are seeing an increase in demand for alternative preservation. Our plan is to continue providing solutions to meet the needs of the beauty and personal care industry in this category and more.
Arellano: Yes. Our concerns surrounding regulatory issues do not concern the regulations themselves. As the industry continuously changes to keep up with consumer perception and regulatory requirements, we are noticing that technologies cannot be created fast enough to meet this ever-changing environment. This poses obvious challenges to all the different departments within any given organization to keep up with demand.
Happi: What’s the current atmosphere among consumers regarding “preservatives” in their personal care products? Is it more favorable or less favorable these days?
Babik: Consumer perception is posing a challenge for us all … “preservative free” is desired, but we all know that preservative free and aqueous systems are not simultaneously possible or advisable, so there is a challenge here and the industry is responding through innovation of products, through use of auxiliary ingredients, better designed consumer packaging, and through education of the consumer.
Sedlewicz: Consumers view preservatives in their personal care products the same way they do in their food. However, food is not expected to be kept at room temperature for up to three years, in most cases. Personal care products are. As a professional in this area, it is very concerning to me that the industry is being pushed by forces that do not understand the importance of preservation with regard to the safety of personal care products. The risk to the consumer coming from an inadequately preserved product exposes the entire industry to increased criticism from individuals and organizations that advance the idea that all chemical and consumer products companies care only for profit while disregarding the safety of the consumer. As an industry, we must do everything that we can to fight this misconception.
Wingenfeld: It seems that consumers’ awareness of antimicrobial technologies is growing. Even with the shrinking list of active ingredients, personal care products must remain safe with respect to microbial count, not only when purchased but also during the use-up period. Consumers also expect that personal care products should be mild to the skin.
Intelligent combination products and delivery systems help formulators to avoid over-dosage of single actives. This minimizes environmental impacts and takes local consumer issues into account. Optimized antimicrobial technologies are the safety belt for your personal care products.
Calkap: Consumers need to be reassured that the end-products they purchase are safe and effective. If misinformation and propaganda is fed into the market which negatively portrays preservatives and deliberately avoids presenting the benefits of preservatives, then it is inevitable that consumers will continue to fear preservatives and become more chemophobic in general. This is not a sustainable position.
Makonnen: An important factor in the mind of the consumer is safety of the product they are using and therefore the ingredients that it contains. With a direct association of an ingredient’s naturality to is its safety, consumers are demanding natural ingredient options as they deem them safe. Brands are then turning to alternative preservation systems and the Hurdle Technology to protect their formulation from microbial contamination.
Arellano: The current atmosphere among consumers regarding preservatives in their personal care products is increasingly negative with more of a call for safe preservation as well as efficacy in the eyes of formulation chemists and consumers, which creates a fine balance between science and art.
Byrd: We are seeing a shift from a desire to simply replace preservatives under social pressure with favorable label claim supported blends with a short performance history in the market to consumers desiring, not only the favorable labels claims, but the additional need to be tried and true with long term performance.
Happi: What kind of job is the personal care industry doing to educate consumers about the role preservatives play in their products, and why?
Babik: The industry is caught between consumer expectations and available options—the industry has not generally engaged consumers technically or directly, the emphasis has been in reacting and fine tuning. New preservatives are not an easy fix and the R&D/validation cycle is long and requires extensive testing. We are in an in-between phase.
Sedlewicz: Consumer products companies are driven by trends. It is in the interest of these companies to react to the loudest voices. Currently, those voices are often “anti-chemical” and “preservative-free.” What we, as an industry, need is a respected spokesperson to speak in terms that the consumer can understand about the benefits of preservation in personal care products. So long as the loudest voices are denigrating preservatives, I am afraid that our pallet of useful materials will continue to shrink.
Wingenfeld: “Free from” product claims on end use product labels and packaging may contribute to negative consumer perceptions about preservatives. We are aware that the European Commission has recently published guidance on these types of claims, and anticipate further developments as to how the guidance will impact label claim trends.
Calkap: Further developing the message from the answer above, and geared toward beginning to redress the balance and help fairly educate the consumer, organizations such as the ICCR (International Cooperation on Cosmetic Regulation) and the European Commission have created fact-sheets, infographics and FAQs which talk to what preservatives are, why they are needed, why the “available palette” needs to remains broad and importantly, what the consequences may be for poorly- or non-preserved consumer products. Lonza is a strong advocate and supporter of this messaging, with many of our colleagues and stakeholders in the industry helping lead and work alongside through trade bodies.
Makonnen: The personal care industry’s relationship with consumers is slowly changing because of social media. This new path of direct communication is giving the personal care industry an opportunity to educate the consumer not only about the role of preservatives but all beauty care ingredients.
Byrd: Today’s consumer is more educated and more sensitive to social needs and concerns than ever before with the influx of media platforms such as Instagram and the like; proving the industry knows how to get information out to the public. We can continue and always improve as an industry in educating the consumer on the benefits that preservatives have in protecting the integrity of product safety and the health and wellbeing of the end user.
Happi: What’s next in preservatives for 2019 and beyond?
Lutz: Lincoln MFG-USA will continue to evolve with new novel approaches to keep up with regulatory while satisfying the consumer demands. Personal care customers will continue to come to companies like Lincoln MFG-USA that specialize in preservatives, alternatives, naturally derived, natural, and multifunctional systems, thus giving the customers an easier road to solve issues as they come up.
Babik: We will continue to see new potentiators and new blends focused on extending the efficacy range and on eliminating negativities associated with preservatives, and in particular on mitigating known irritants and sensitizers while maintaining appropriate function as a preservative.
Sedlewicz: The current trend is to look for antimicrobial activity in materials that are known for other functions—emollients, fragrance components, etc. schülke has been investigating these multifunctional materials for many years; leading to the development of our sensiva line of products. These blends of emollient and fragrance components function to reduce the susceptibility of formulations to microbial contamination, leading to a microbiologically-stable finished product that can withstand the rigors of consumer use. As our research in this area continues, we hope to launch additional innovative products that meet the high schülke standards for safety and efficacy.
Wingenfeld: For Ashland, the future of preservatives is a multi-target preservation approach designed by understanding and exploiting synergies between our preservatives’ mode of action, formulation hurdles and preservative delivery systems.
Calkap: In a move toward transitioning from product supplier to solution supplier, at In-Cosmetics Global in Amsterdam, Lonza Consumer Product Ingredients’ introduced PreservationPlus, a new approach to preservation that goes beyond merely the chemistry of the preservative. As consumer demands and formulations become more complex, the choice of preservative needs to be brought upstream in the development process. A modern-day preservation offer cannot purely be a product or chemistry selected in isolation. It must encapsulate strong formulation proficiency from the very start, acknowledging and working with the co-formulants within which it is positioned.
Lonza has pulled these elements together with its PreservationPlus concept, aligning customer needs and applying integrated expertise to developing market-leading formulations. PreservationPlus represents our supplementing an ever-evolving preservation product portfolio with superior technical service, regulatory and toxicology expertise, and formulation know-how, all based on science.
Makonnen: The focus on health and wellness by consumers is not confined to what is in their refrigerators only but also on the products they use in their beauty care regimen. With this in mind, the beauty care industry will see an increase in 2019 and beyond in demand for plant-based and vegan options for alternative preservation systems.
Arellano: Looking ahead to 2019 and beyond, the driving forces behind preservative technologies will be lower use levels to further user safety and the call for more natural/green options.
Byrd: Providing the consumer with broad-spectrum microbial protection that enables the reduction in the amount of preservative required in formulation, not only in a variety of product forms, but with multifunctional benefits to reduce the overall ingredients needed for the desired consumer affect, will be paramount in the new frontier of product development.
But it’s not just product safety that is worrying shoppers, as almost eight in ten (78%) consumers are concerned about the freshness of items they buy online as well.
Preservatives are a key player in keeping a personal care product clean, crisp and competent.
“Americans are exercising caution when shopping online as they believe that purchasing in store is the most trustworthy way to determine the safety, quality and/or freshness of the items they buy,” explained Matt Lindner, senior e-commerce analyst at Mintel. While online shopping is becoming more convenient, online retailers still have yet to fully replicate the in-store experience of discovering a product in person. As a result, retailers have to go above and beyond in terms of offering more product information and anticipating any potential concerns from shoppers. In doing so, consumers will have less hesitation about adding a product to their online shopping cart and subsequently completing a purchase.”
The American Chemistry Council (ACC) reported that US specialty chemicals market volumes started the second quarter on a strong note, increasing 0.9% in April after an upwardly revised 0.5% gain in March and a 0.3% gain in February. Specialty chemicals are materials manufactured on the basis of the unique performance or function and provide a wide variety of effects on which many other sectors and end-use products rely—this includes preservatives.
Leaders in today’s preservatives sector took time to chat with Happi about the latest developments in the industry.
A Bit About Our Experts…
Pat Lutz, president/owner, Lincoln Manufacturing-USA, Lincoln, RI: Lincoln Manufacturing has more than 30 years of preservative experience in microbiology, analytical and innovation design and specializes in customizing preservative systems. With the manufacturing located in the US, the customers get to work directly with the microbiologist, chemist and owner to reduce speed to market.
Albert Babik, general manager, Jeen International Corporation, Fairfield, NJ: Jeen International manufactures and sells an extensive line of traditional and novel preservatives with broad spectrum efficacy. The firm has supplied isothiazolinone and paraben-free options for more than 15 years and continues to refine its offer with solutions tailored to customers’ demands.
Linda B. Sedlewicz, country manager, schülke inc., Fairfield, NJ: schülke has been protecting people and products from harmful microorganisms since 1889 when it invented Lysol. The firm’s first preservative for personal care came in 1978 with the introduction of euxyl K 100, a product that is still widely used throughout the world today. Schülke’s sole focus is on antimicrobial protection of people (outside of North America) and products (globally). This gives the company a deep understanding of preservation issues and actives. Schulke’s goal is to be a resource for its customers.
Andrea Wingenfeld, global marketing manager, preservatives, Ashland, Memmingen, Germany: Ashland has more than 50 years of experience in antimicrobial technologies, targeting the personal care market. A global solutions provider for different market needs, Ashland provides unique preservative solutions that offer its customers the best value and support for their preservative needs. Besides inventing the Germall II and Germall 115 workhorses, the firm is constantly developing new antimicrobial technologies to address modern preservative needs. Ashland’s global technical support enables its customers to determine the optimum choice and dosage levels of antimicrobial technologies, and the company’s application experts in skin and hair care are a great resource for formulation-related questions.
Aysel Calkap, technical marketing manager – preservation, NAFTA, Lonza Ltd., Allendale, NJ: Preservation is a fundamental element of many Lonza business units, and consumer product ingredients is no exception. For many years, Lonza has remained proud to offer a comprehensive range of preservation systems to the global home care and personal care markets, a wide-ranging portfolio of single active and blended preservatives that capably offers: traditional, non-traditional and novel technologies; wide global acceptance and regulatory compliance; broad spectrum efficacy; robust data packages; extensive substrate compatibility; innovative and market-focused R&D; industry-leading regulatory and toxicology expertise.
Fana Makonnen, global technical marketing manager, INOLEX, Philadelphia: The company is a leading expert in alternative preservations that allow for the creation of formulations that pass challenge tests without the inclusion of traditional preservatives by using Hurdle Technology. Hurdle Technology is a formulation approach to preservation where a combination of multifunctional ingredients and other formulation factors such as pH, along with good manufacturing principles, are used as hurdles for microbes in the process preventing microbial growth.
Nicholas A. Arellano, technical marketing manager, preservatives, Coast Southwest, Placentia, CA: Coast Southwest is a leading full-service, chemical distribution and ingredient technology company. The firm supplies a vast array of commodity and specialty ingredients to the personal care market. A cornerstone of its business model is leveraging pivotal relationships with leading suppliers for its customers’ benefit. In preservatives, that supplier is Sharon Laboratories, a globally recognized manufacturer with ISO-certified production facilities in Israel and Brazil. Sharon has been its strategic partner in preservatives for more than two decades. Sharon brings 40-plus years of experience delivering classic preservatives, “free of” alternatives, and naturally derived, advanced products which can be options for rinse-off, leave-on, wipes, and baby-oriented products. Within Sharon’s portfolio there is a preservative solution to meet all the latest preferences and regulations in personal care.
Jessica Byrd, field marketing manager, Vertellus, Parsippany, NJ: With roots in the oral care business, Vertellus has spent more than 40 years perfecting the molecule cetyl pyridium chloride (CPC), with a zero percent failure rate in the market, into a tried and true preservative for the personal care industry. Under the trademarked, Freshstat family of preservatives, Vertellus has optimized an answer to the dynamic and ever changing market and consumer need to not only lower levels of preservatives, but to find replacements for preservatives like parabens, CMIT/MIT, formaldehyde donors, phenoxyethanol and others.
Happi: What are your workhorse or go-to preservatives, and what are their benefits in the household and personal care marketplace?
Lutz: At Lincoln, Linatural Ultra-3 is an all-natural multifunctional, Cosmos-certified, globally-approved, wide pH, low odor, broad spectrum system for personal care and works well for household where it is CleanGredients listed.
Linatural MBS-1 is a naturally derived, globally approved, patented, mild, water soluble, broad spectrum preservative system. It works great as a mild alternative in lower pH water formulations like baby products, facial toners, serums and all personal care products.
Lincoserve WpH-LO is an alternative, globally-approved, broad-spectrum, multifunctional system that is free of phenoxyethanol, parabens, formaldehyde and isothiazolinones. WpH-LO does not interfere with viscosity, is low odor and covers wide pH of formulations.
Babik: Jeecide CAP series leverages the boosting power of caprylyl glycol with phenoxyethanol and a few optimizers for tailored solutions in a variety of systems. Jeecide AA Series leverages market acceptance of benzyl alcohol coupled with benzoic and sorbic acids for select systems.
Sedlewicz: Our workhorse product is euxyl PE 9010. This patent-protected blend was introduced as a substitute for more traditional phenoxyethanol/paraben mixtures and can be used at the same use levels. This broad-spectrum liquid is easy to incorporate into most formulas; temperature and pH stable; and can be incorporated into clear systems. euxyl K 900 substitutes benzyl alcohol for phenoxyethanol and is equally effective in formulas that can be preserved by euxyl PE 9010.
In addition, schülke offers the only stabilized ethylhexylgly-cerin available to personal care. Our patented stabilization method gives our sensiva SC 50 a shelf-life of 36 months, with no risk of oxidative darkening or change in odor, which could adversely affect a finished product. Both euxyl PE 9010 and sensiva SC 50 are Halal-certified. We expect to have all of our personal care products Halal-certified within the next year.
Wingenfeld: Optiphen preservative (INCI: Phenoxyethanol, caprylyl glycol) provides modern, broad-spectrum activity in a wide pH range and excellent global market reputation
Germall II (INCI: Diazolidinyl urea) and Germall 115 (INCI: Imidazolidinyl urea) preservatives are classic robust technologies, easy to incorporate into personal care products, very effective against bacteria, with synergistic activity when combined with other preservatives.
Calkap: Geogard Ultra is a Cosmos-compliant broad-spectrum preservative, benefitting from a unique potentiated sodium benzoate system. Strongly aligning with the demands of today’s naturally-minded personal care formulator, Geogard Ultra is particularly suitable for difficult-to-preserve substrates such as baby wipes and sheet masks; Glycacil L is based on the popular and trusted antifungal preservative IPBC (iodopropynyl butylcarbamate). Offering wide formulation latitude solution and ease of addition, Glycacil L remains a lead candidate for personal care formulators wishing to ensure the optimal antifungal control for their end products.
Proxel AQ is a zero-VOC aqueous solution which delivers the reliable broad spectrum home care preservative BIT (1,2-benzisothiazolin-3-one), widely-recognized as one of the most versatile, compatible and trusted broad-spectrum preservatives available throughout the global home care markets. One of a number of Lonza preservatives listed within CleanGredients, Proxel AQ can be considered as pre-approved by the EPA for use in Safer Choice-labelled end products
Makonnen: Since 2008, INOLEX has offered a range of the systems, containing the proprietary Caprylhydroxamic Acid technology or CHA. CHA is a chelating agent and organic acid that can provide broad spectrum protection at higher pH in combination with diols or aromatic alcohols.
The CHA Series, which includes Spectrastat G2-N (Caprylhydroxamic acid (and) glyceryl caprylate (and) glycerin) an NSF certified, 100% plant-based option, offers a range that includes cold processed options Sapectrastat OL and Spectrastat OEL optimized for wipe applications, Spectrastat BHL and Spectrastat PHL optimized for face-mask and other sensitive skin application and Zeastat an option that allows the incorporation of CHA technology for yeast and mold control potentially with existing systems or components. The CHA technology has received high acceptance as a result of very high efficacy.
Arellano: Three workhorses or go-to preservatives from Sharon Laboratories that we have seen the most interest in from customers include Biomix Free CG, a “preservative-free” claim option for the industry. It is free of parabens, formaldehyde donors and free of phenoxyenthanol. This preservative option is also broad spectrum, has a pH range of 3.0-9.0, low use level, and is good for rinse-off and leave-on applications
Biosecur C160S is USDA organic and certified, Cosmos approved, and GRAS approved. This preservative option has a pH range of 3.0-9.0, and is good for rinse-off and leave-on applications.
Biomix Pure 1 is a naturally derived, broad spectrum preservative with a pH range of 3.0-9.0, low use level, and is good for rinse-off and leave-on applications.
Byrd: Freshstat is a versatile, safe and cost-effective preservative with an excellent safety profile. It is colorless, odorless, and formaldehyde free. Effective over a broad pH range, Freshstat exhibits broad spectrum antimicrobial efficacy against gram-positive and gram-negative bacteria, yeast and mold. Freshstat is compatible with nonionics, cationic and some anionic formulations. The active ingredient, CPC, is biodegradable and is an excellent alternative to commonly used preservatives. In solution, a neutral pH of 6 will remain stable under a wide variety of conditions.
Freshstat Plus is a proprietary mixture of CPC and benzoic acid in propylene glycol. Surfactant-based shampoos, body washes and hand soaps exhibit unique properties of anionic surfactant-based systems that are much harder to preserve for mold species. Therefore, Freshstat Plus has been specifically designed for use in anionic surfactant systems to boost the efficacy against hard to combat mold species in formulation. With the addition of Freshstat Plus, excellent microbial efficacy for Aspergillus brasiliensis and other mold species in water is achieved.
Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS) finalized a favorable opinion for CPC in cosmetics. CPC has been safely used for decades in US FDA-approved oral care and food processing applications. It is approved for use as a preservative in cosmetics in Japan by the Ministry of Health and Welfare. CPC was found effective in preservative challenge studies with a wide range of organisms.
Happi: Are there any new products/launches for 2018 you’d like to highlight and/or preservative technologies/products that you believe are under-utilized in your current stable?
Lutz: LinPro-MP series is a novel approach to protect formulations from microbial contamination while not being classified as a preservative. LinPro line was designed with customer input of wanting an alternative to typical preservatives such as glycols, diols, phenoxyethanol, and other conventional types. LinPro is part of a multiple filed patent.
Babik: We continue to explore boosters and highlight the conditions for their peak performance to design specialized preservative systems. We are looking beyond all the diols and glycols to find the right optimizing system that will be broad-spectrum without necessarily compromising end customer formulations.
Sedlewicz: Many customers are looking for preservatives that can be used in compliance with the various natural certification bodies globally. schülke’s euxyl K 903 is a broad-spectrum blend of benzyl alcohol and organic acids. This blend is stabilized using natural tocopherol, not only making it less susceptible to oxidation (color change) than other similar blends, but also compliant with many natural certification bodies requirements.
Wingenfeld: Optimizing the delivery of preservatives is essential to the viability of next-generation preservative systems. Ashland’s Optiphen P platform is the first preservative technology platform without alcoholic antimicrobials, based on an optimized delivery system. The delivery system serves to ostensibly maximize preservative efficacy without interfering or destabilizing cosmetic formulations, such as emulsions. The preservative products Optiphen DP and Optiphen DLP, offered within the Optiphen P platform, address today’s demands for cost-efficient preservatives that follow natural ingredient trends.
Calkap: Within 2018, Lonza is planning to launch its Proxel LS preservative into the US home care preservation market. Built around a highly-effective blend of BIT and sodium pyrithione, Proxel LS provides extraordinarily broad-spectrum protection with good temperature stability and formulation latitude within home care products—it is currently enjoying wide utilization within the industrial paints and coatings area. The introduction of Proxel LS into the home care area reaffirms Lonza’s commitment to offer the broadest and most active range of preservatives to an ever-demanding market.
Makonnen: CHA technology, which has seen tremendous growth since its launch in 2008, has expanded to provide alternative preservation options for all of beauty and personal care including cold process formulation. Part of the CHA technology expansion includes plant-based options Spectrastat G2-N and Zeastat. As more and more consumers demand natural ingredients which they deem as safe, Spectrastat-G2-N and Zeastat have been go-to options for a number of brands.
Arellano: Sharomix Amplify is a patent-pending, preservative line based on enhancing the efficacy of popular preservative systems to achieve the best antimicrobial results, so less preservative delivers more protection. Amplify accomplishes this through the use of a proprietary booster, in combination with other materials with antimicrobial activity, in a specific ratio, to deliver strong broad-spectrum protection. It features a reduced use level of 0.5% and is free from parabens, formaldehyde donors, halogens and isothiazolinone. Sharomix Amplify is highly compatible in formulas, and is odor-free and color-free. The addition of the booster has the ability to improve almost any known preservative solution currently in the market.
The second new release is the SharoSense Plus line. SharoSense Plus answers the need of the personal care industry for green and effective preservative systems. This line offers a natural-like solution, with increased solubility. SharoSense Plus combines the best features of natural ingredients, with the safety, quality and consistency of the lab, and is markedly strengthened by the role of cationic catalysis. This line is based on Maltol, a naturally-occurring organic compound and offers several solutions, suitable for a wide range of applications including leave-on, rinse-off and more.
Byrd: Vertellus is continuously working on new blends that provide customers with versatility, cost-in-use, and broad-spectrum efficacy in very challenging preservation environments that address the need for multifunctional performance and safe, synergy and uncompromised protection.
Happi: What are the needs of your customers and how have they changed in the past several years?
Lutz: Customers are looking to Lincoln MFG-USA for stability in domestic supply and preservative answers. Being a US-based company, customers are coming directly to us to solve their preservative issues.
Babik: The aim is to always mitigate and use the least amount of preservative while maintaining the highest level of efficacy possible. There is a strong trend toward using less and less preservative and as naturally derived as possible.
Sedlewicz: As more traditional preservatives have come under public scrutiny, the trend has been toward using multifunctional materials and preservative boosters. However, there are several considerations that must be kept in focus when making this change. First, these newer materials aren’t necessarily safer than traditional preservatives. They typically have less safety information available and significantly less history of use in personal care products. Most traditional preservatives have extensive safety dossiers and a long history of safe and effective use at typical use levels.
Many non-traditional preservation methods require much higher use levels than traditional methods. For this, and a variety of other reasons, these non-traditional methods must be considered very early in the development of a formula to avoid incompatibility and instability problems. They also increase the cost of the finished formula.
More importantly, from a microbiology standpoint, many non-traditional systems are not as effective as traditional systems. This shortens the shelf-life of the finished formula and increases the risk of contamination of the product; whether during production or in the hands of the consumer. All schülke products, traditional or non-traditional, must pass the same stringent testing for toxicity, stability and efficacy before we put our name on them. The schülke name stands for quality and efficacy in preservation in everything that we sell. Our goal is to provide the best products and support for all of our customers’ preservation needs.
Wingenfeld: Customers take a more holistic approach on preservation, one that is not only about antimicrobial performance and synergistic values. Environmental data, skin benefits and market reputation also are playing a large role in preservative selection.
Calkap: Last year, Lonza Consumer Product Ingredients launched its new global preservation strategy. This was in specific response to the changing and increasingly-challenging demands of the global preservation market and its stakeholders, better positioning Lonza as a preservation partner for the future. A move toward naturally-positioned products is one of the most apparent consumer shifts, along with a requirement for less controversial preservation and protection systems, be they delivered through regulated preservative actives or dependable multifunctional additives.
Makonnen: INOLEX has been a leader in adopting the formulation approach to preservation through Hurdle Technology and alternative preservation. As the change away from traditional preservatives has come in waves and increasingly so, brands are in search of non-traditional alternative preservation systems that meet their different formulation needs such as cold process or plant-based options.
Arellano: Our current customers are coming to us with requests for preservatives that are all-encompassing. With constant regulatory changes and consumer perceptions of preservatives becoming increasingly negative, the number of options available to formulation chemists and marketers alike substantially decreases. Therefore, finding a preservative or preservative blend that meets consumer expectations, regulatory requirements, and product efficacy has become arduous and more of an industry challenge. Because of Sharon’s rapidity and attention to industry concerns and needs, we have a portfolio of preservatives that will help all customers in all different regions of the world.
Byrd: Some of our consumers have come to us looking to have a proven preservative system in formulation. These consumers were market leaders in replacing traditional preservatives and found that some of the newer choices had not been on the market long enough to prove their performance over time. There is increased pressure to replace other traditional preservatives like phenoxyethanol that can perform just as well if not better in some formulations.
Happi: Are there regulatory issues/concerns on your radar screen regarding preservatives?
Babik: We continue to monitor the evolving regulatory environment, we are especially paying attention to phenoxyethanol and its continued negative stigma on various internet sites. Despite getting an endorsement from EU regulators that use of phenoxyethanol up to 1% is endorsed across the board, the negative comments that circulated persist, and some customers have already started looking for alternatives.
Sedlewicz: One of our major concerns is that regulatory bodies are being pressured by NGOs and other groups to place restriction on chemistries that are not based on science. Emotion and a general public misunderstanding of chemistry has led to regulators and marketing groups banning safe and effective traditional preservative in favor of preservation systems that have significantly less data and history. This has, in turn, increased the risk to the consumer of purchasing inadequately preserved products. The risk could be as simple as a change in the odor of the product or as serious as a contaminated product causing infection or, in the case of an eye area product, blindness. As an industry, we must fight to keep the preservative materials that we are currently still allowed to use, while maintaining high standards for safety and efficacy for any new materials that are introduced for this purpose.
Wingenfeld: The shrinking list of allowed preservatives is now commonly referred to as a crisis by industry and regulators alike. Ashland is an active member of the European Federation for Cosmetic Ingredients, which has a dedicated working group for preservatives. Collaboration between suppliers, customers, regulatory authorities and their scientific committees is key in tackling this crisis.
We also welcome the news that Cosmetics Europe has launched a product preservation program, and Ashland expects to work with it as a key supplier to the personal care industry.
Calkap: Absolutely. As a stakeholder group of ingredient suppliers, formulators, retailers, consumers, NGOs and regulators, there needs to be strong coherency and transparency within the global preservation industry. This means responsibility in how preservatives are used, recognition as to their invaluableness in protecting consumer safety, and importantly, a move away from continuing the denigration of preservatives by bandied-around ‘free-from’ claims.
Makonnen: Absolutely! With fewer and fewer traditional preservatives available to formulators as a result of regulatory and safety restrictions globally, we are seeing an increase in demand for alternative preservation. Our plan is to continue providing solutions to meet the needs of the beauty and personal care industry in this category and more.
Arellano: Yes. Our concerns surrounding regulatory issues do not concern the regulations themselves. As the industry continuously changes to keep up with consumer perception and regulatory requirements, we are noticing that technologies cannot be created fast enough to meet this ever-changing environment. This poses obvious challenges to all the different departments within any given organization to keep up with demand.
Happi: What’s the current atmosphere among consumers regarding “preservatives” in their personal care products? Is it more favorable or less favorable these days?
Babik: Consumer perception is posing a challenge for us all … “preservative free” is desired, but we all know that preservative free and aqueous systems are not simultaneously possible or advisable, so there is a challenge here and the industry is responding through innovation of products, through use of auxiliary ingredients, better designed consumer packaging, and through education of the consumer.
Sedlewicz: Consumers view preservatives in their personal care products the same way they do in their food. However, food is not expected to be kept at room temperature for up to three years, in most cases. Personal care products are. As a professional in this area, it is very concerning to me that the industry is being pushed by forces that do not understand the importance of preservation with regard to the safety of personal care products. The risk to the consumer coming from an inadequately preserved product exposes the entire industry to increased criticism from individuals and organizations that advance the idea that all chemical and consumer products companies care only for profit while disregarding the safety of the consumer. As an industry, we must do everything that we can to fight this misconception.
Wingenfeld: It seems that consumers’ awareness of antimicrobial technologies is growing. Even with the shrinking list of active ingredients, personal care products must remain safe with respect to microbial count, not only when purchased but also during the use-up period. Consumers also expect that personal care products should be mild to the skin.
Intelligent combination products and delivery systems help formulators to avoid over-dosage of single actives. This minimizes environmental impacts and takes local consumer issues into account. Optimized antimicrobial technologies are the safety belt for your personal care products.
Calkap: Consumers need to be reassured that the end-products they purchase are safe and effective. If misinformation and propaganda is fed into the market which negatively portrays preservatives and deliberately avoids presenting the benefits of preservatives, then it is inevitable that consumers will continue to fear preservatives and become more chemophobic in general. This is not a sustainable position.
Makonnen: An important factor in the mind of the consumer is safety of the product they are using and therefore the ingredients that it contains. With a direct association of an ingredient’s naturality to is its safety, consumers are demanding natural ingredient options as they deem them safe. Brands are then turning to alternative preservation systems and the Hurdle Technology to protect their formulation from microbial contamination.
Arellano: The current atmosphere among consumers regarding preservatives in their personal care products is increasingly negative with more of a call for safe preservation as well as efficacy in the eyes of formulation chemists and consumers, which creates a fine balance between science and art.
Byrd: We are seeing a shift from a desire to simply replace preservatives under social pressure with favorable label claim supported blends with a short performance history in the market to consumers desiring, not only the favorable labels claims, but the additional need to be tried and true with long term performance.
Happi: What kind of job is the personal care industry doing to educate consumers about the role preservatives play in their products, and why?
Babik: The industry is caught between consumer expectations and available options—the industry has not generally engaged consumers technically or directly, the emphasis has been in reacting and fine tuning. New preservatives are not an easy fix and the R&D/validation cycle is long and requires extensive testing. We are in an in-between phase.
Sedlewicz: Consumer products companies are driven by trends. It is in the interest of these companies to react to the loudest voices. Currently, those voices are often “anti-chemical” and “preservative-free.” What we, as an industry, need is a respected spokesperson to speak in terms that the consumer can understand about the benefits of preservation in personal care products. So long as the loudest voices are denigrating preservatives, I am afraid that our pallet of useful materials will continue to shrink.
Wingenfeld: “Free from” product claims on end use product labels and packaging may contribute to negative consumer perceptions about preservatives. We are aware that the European Commission has recently published guidance on these types of claims, and anticipate further developments as to how the guidance will impact label claim trends.
Calkap: Further developing the message from the answer above, and geared toward beginning to redress the balance and help fairly educate the consumer, organizations such as the ICCR (International Cooperation on Cosmetic Regulation) and the European Commission have created fact-sheets, infographics and FAQs which talk to what preservatives are, why they are needed, why the “available palette” needs to remains broad and importantly, what the consequences may be for poorly- or non-preserved consumer products. Lonza is a strong advocate and supporter of this messaging, with many of our colleagues and stakeholders in the industry helping lead and work alongside through trade bodies.
Makonnen: The personal care industry’s relationship with consumers is slowly changing because of social media. This new path of direct communication is giving the personal care industry an opportunity to educate the consumer not only about the role of preservatives but all beauty care ingredients.
Byrd: Today’s consumer is more educated and more sensitive to social needs and concerns than ever before with the influx of media platforms such as Instagram and the like; proving the industry knows how to get information out to the public. We can continue and always improve as an industry in educating the consumer on the benefits that preservatives have in protecting the integrity of product safety and the health and wellbeing of the end user.
Happi: What’s next in preservatives for 2019 and beyond?
Lutz: Lincoln MFG-USA will continue to evolve with new novel approaches to keep up with regulatory while satisfying the consumer demands. Personal care customers will continue to come to companies like Lincoln MFG-USA that specialize in preservatives, alternatives, naturally derived, natural, and multifunctional systems, thus giving the customers an easier road to solve issues as they come up.
Babik: We will continue to see new potentiators and new blends focused on extending the efficacy range and on eliminating negativities associated with preservatives, and in particular on mitigating known irritants and sensitizers while maintaining appropriate function as a preservative.
Sedlewicz: The current trend is to look for antimicrobial activity in materials that are known for other functions—emollients, fragrance components, etc. schülke has been investigating these multifunctional materials for many years; leading to the development of our sensiva line of products. These blends of emollient and fragrance components function to reduce the susceptibility of formulations to microbial contamination, leading to a microbiologically-stable finished product that can withstand the rigors of consumer use. As our research in this area continues, we hope to launch additional innovative products that meet the high schülke standards for safety and efficacy.
Wingenfeld: For Ashland, the future of preservatives is a multi-target preservation approach designed by understanding and exploiting synergies between our preservatives’ mode of action, formulation hurdles and preservative delivery systems.
Calkap: In a move toward transitioning from product supplier to solution supplier, at In-Cosmetics Global in Amsterdam, Lonza Consumer Product Ingredients’ introduced PreservationPlus, a new approach to preservation that goes beyond merely the chemistry of the preservative. As consumer demands and formulations become more complex, the choice of preservative needs to be brought upstream in the development process. A modern-day preservation offer cannot purely be a product or chemistry selected in isolation. It must encapsulate strong formulation proficiency from the very start, acknowledging and working with the co-formulants within which it is positioned.
Lonza has pulled these elements together with its PreservationPlus concept, aligning customer needs and applying integrated expertise to developing market-leading formulations. PreservationPlus represents our supplementing an ever-evolving preservation product portfolio with superior technical service, regulatory and toxicology expertise, and formulation know-how, all based on science.
Makonnen: The focus on health and wellness by consumers is not confined to what is in their refrigerators only but also on the products they use in their beauty care regimen. With this in mind, the beauty care industry will see an increase in 2019 and beyond in demand for plant-based and vegan options for alternative preservation systems.
Arellano: Looking ahead to 2019 and beyond, the driving forces behind preservative technologies will be lower use levels to further user safety and the call for more natural/green options.
Byrd: Providing the consumer with broad-spectrum microbial protection that enables the reduction in the amount of preservative required in formulation, not only in a variety of product forms, but with multifunctional benefits to reduce the overall ingredients needed for the desired consumer affect, will be paramount in the new frontier of product development.