Beeswax is the oldest wax known to man. It is also, along with essential oils and mineral pigments, one of the oldest cosmetic ingredients in the world. The first documented uses date as far back as 3000 BC, when ancient Chinese people used it in early nail enamels¹ and in Egypt, where it was used to stiffen and preserve wigs.^2,3 


Throughout time, beeswax has been commercially traded all over the world.⁴ Supply and demand have fluctuated due to availability, environmental factors, and controversy, yet it is still a widely-used and well-established raw material in the cosmetic industry, especially in color cosmetics and lip balms. In 2017, 7% of new product launches in the eye color, lip color and lip care categories contained beeswax or a beeswax derivative. This means more beauty products are currently being launched with beeswax than with other industry staples such as paraffin, dimethicone or polyethylene (2%, 5%, and 4.5% of new product launches, respectively).⁵


Perhaps the key to the perseverance of beeswax lies in its uniqueness, from both a chemical and functional perspective. Beeswax offers countless benefits, such as skin protection, natural origin, antimicrobial properties, and UV absorption.⁶ It is globally approved, biodegradable, non-toxic,⁷ non-irritant, and non-comedogenic.⁸


This article reviews beeswax as a functional raw material, how to best use it in cosmetic formulations and even options for those who wish to remove it. Koster Keunen’s position on beeswax is that it is a “cruelty-free” product. Worldwide, bees must be kept in optimal conditions in order to thrive and be productive. It is not in beekeepers’ best interest to harm their bees, as bee product trade and pollination are part of their livelihood. In developing areas of the world, entire villages depend on the income from honey and beeswax trade. This article reviews beeswax as a functional raw material, how to best use it in cosmetic formulations and even options for those who wish to remove it.  


Formulating with Beeswax

Every cosmetic chemist can benefit from knowing the basics of formulating with beeswax. From a formulation standpoint, it is mainly a viscosity builder with many added benefits. Due to its lipidic nature, its main cosmetic function is to provide a protective skin barrier (and moisturize by occlusion). While many other raw materials provide these benefits, beeswax has a unique chemistry that makes it multifunctional.


Beeswax is biosynthesized by the European honey bee (Apis Mellifera) in response to specific stimuli.⁹ The process begins in the abdominal glands and epidermal cells of worker bees, where virgin beeswax is first secreted. It is then, along with propolis (collected from trees, shrubs, and flowers surrounding the hive), mixed and chewed by the bee, where it is chemically modified by salivary enzymes,¹⁰ rendering the mix ready for use as comb wax, with the main purposes of supply storage and brood protection.¹¹ Like other natural waxes, beeswax is a complex mixture of organic compounds, mainly long chain esters, hydrocarbons and fatty acids,¹² but its polyesters, polycosanols and minor components make it unique. Table 1 outlines the chemical composition of beeswax and how each component can relate to function (Puleo, S., personal communication, March 2018). Variation within the range depends on many factors, including geographical region, climate, and bee subspecies.


In anhydrous systems, beeswax thickens and structures oils by forming stable gel networks where gel viscosity and hardness are proportional to the percentage of wax, but also depend on oil/wax compatibility, as is shown in Figure 1.¹³ In realistic terms, by manipulating very few variables, cosmetic products will run the gamut of textures, from waxy hard sticks to soft sticky balms.


But beeswax doesn’t just provide structure, its uniqueness lies in its dual functionality as both a structuring agent and a plasticizer, which is important for stick integrity, smooth textures, and even color deposition. The plasticizing properties in beeswax will also help prevent crystallization, “sweating” and bloom. This double functionality also simplifies the formulation process.


Table 2 is intended to provide a formula “backbone” for anhydrous products.


The variation in percentage will be determined by the final formula application. In simple sticks the first three rows will usually suffice, but for softer (squeezable/scoopable) balms, an added plasticizer, such as Kester Wax K-60P, will work synergistically with beeswax to keep the formula thermally stable and aesthetically pleasing (see Sample Formula 1, Natural Squeezable Tinted Lip Balm).


Beeswax also has widespread use as a thickener in emulsion formulas (both oil-in-water and water-in-oil), especially where a thick consistency is desired, such as mascaras, body butters or cold creams. In oil-in-water emulsions, it behaves like a typical oil/wax phase component: with the right emulsifier/stabilizer system, it will thicken emulsions via internal phase packing.

Formulators should be aware of a few considerations:

The emulsion pH is affected by the free fatty acids present in beeswax. If the amount of beeswax in the formula is high (generally above 5%), the pH will be measurably lower; this can be avoided by adding a calculated amount of alkali to the water phase. In this scenario, the free fatty acids will be saponified in situ, gradually turning the beeswax from an oil-phase component to co-emulsifier, and thus changing the properties and texture of the emulsion. Even different degrees of beeswax saponification can lead to different textures and viscosities. As a side note, cosmetic chemists should be aware that the newly formed in situ soaps will impart an anionic character to the emulsion, and the remaining formula ingredients should be selected accordingly.


Table 3 is intended to provide a formula “backbone” for oil-in-water emulsions.


Water-in-oil emulsions are not as common in cosmetic preparations, but their resistance to wash-off and their occlusive nature make them ideal for certain applications, such as sunscreens or topical ointments for skin disorders. Beeswax plays an important role in W/O emulsions; it is incorporated into the external/oil phase by melting and mixing it with the remaining oils in the formula—generally combinations of mineral oil, petroleum waxes, vegetable oils, and squalene—and a suitable water-in-oil emulsifier.¹⁴ A well-known subcategory is the traditional “cold cream,” a water-in-oil emulsion based on the in situ soap formation between the beeswax acids and a suitable base, which is added to the internal/water phase prior to mixing. As always, beeswax is incorporated into the oil phase, but in these systems it functions as the primary emulsifier. Modern cold cream cleansers use triethanolamine (replacing borax) as the base for soap formation, and many add co-emulsifiers, like Permulgin D (see sample formula 2, Traditional Cold Cream).


Formulating without Beeswax

There are two main reasons product developers might shy away from beeswax: cost reduction and the desire to remove animal byproducts. Koster Keunen can assist in developing personal care products without beeswax or in phasing it out of existing formulas. Due to the complexity of beeswax, science has yet to reproduce it perfectly and, as of today, there is no one perfect “drop-in” for all applications. But, as experts in beeswax, we welcome the challenge and can offer numerous choices.


Synthetic replacements are cost effective, efficient blends of commercially available waxes engineered to closely match the properties of natural beeswax. As an added benefit, these alternatives carry the ambiguous INCI nomenclature of Synthetic Beeswax, making it difficult for competitors to reverse engineer finished products that contain it. In formulations with small percentages of beeswax they are usually a one-to-one replacement, but formulas with large amounts may require some rework, which we can assist with.


It is possible to replace beeswax with a natural alternative, although the limited options make it more challenging. We especially encourage product developers with vegan and natural needs to reach out to us, as the percentage of beeswax and the finished product application of the formula play important roles in successful replacement (see sample formula 3, Vegan Creamy Mascara). The flowchart on this page is provided as a guideline.


Conclusions

Much like honey bees, formulation chemists must also adhere to strict rules, prioritize projects accordingly, and be able to change strategies quickly based on outside challenges or more pressing goals. An understanding of the chemistry of beeswax and how to utilize this versatile raw material in formulations are important tools for a formulator. Koster Keunen has the expertise and the technology to assist customers in many other areas, such as wax chemistry and applications, replacements and modifications, troubleshooting and innovation. 


More info: Koster Keunen, Inc., Tel: 860-945-3333; Email: info@kosterkeunen.com; Website www.kosterkeunen.com

References

1. 2016, A History of Cosmetics from Ancient Times, Cosmetics Info., http://www.cosmeticsinfo.org/Ancient-history-cosmetics (March 22, 2018).
2. Hays, J., 2008, Beauty, Hairstyles and Cosmetics in Ancient Egypt, Facts and Details, http://factsanddetails.com/world/cat56/sub365/item1938.html (March 23, 2018)
3. Puleo, S. and Rit, T. P., 1992, Natural Waxes: Past, Present and Future, Lipid Technology, 4, p. 82-90.
4. Coggshall, W. L. and Morse, R. A., 1984, Beeswax Production, Harvesting, Processing and Products, Wicwas Press, Ithaca, NY, p. 53-59.
5. Data gathered from Mintel GNPD, http://www.gnpd.com/sinatra/gnpd/search/ (December 20, 2017).
6. Puleo, S. L., 1991, Beeswax Minor Components: a New Approach, Cosm. Toiletr., 106(2), p. 83-89.
7. Koster Keunen, Inc., 2016, Beeswax SDS, Koster Keunen, Inc., Watertown, CT.
8. Fulton, J. E., 1989, Comedogenicity and irritancy of commonly used ingredients in skin care products, J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem., 40, p. 321-333.
9. Hepburn, H. R., 1986, Honeybees and Wax, Springer-Verlag Berlin Heidelberg, Germany, p. 128-138.
10. Puleo, S. L., 1991, Beeswax Minor Components: a New Approach, Cosm. Toiletr., 106(2), p. 83-89.
11. Coggshall, W. L. and Morse, R. A., 1984, Beeswax Production, Harvesting, Processing and Products, Wicwas Press, Ithaca, NY, p. 30-40.
12. Puleo, S. and Rit, T. P., 1992, Natural Waxes: Past, Present and Future, Lipid Technology, 4, p. 82-90.
13. Rit, T. P., proprietary data (unpublished).
14. Yu, R. J. and Van Scott, E. J., Stabilized Water-in-Oil Emulsions. U.S. Patent 4,284,630, issued August 18, 1981.