In May 2018, the U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA) issued a stern warning against dietary supplements claiming to be a replacement for sunscreen. In a statement, FDA Commissioner Scott Gottlieb, MD, spoke out against “companies illegally marketing pills and capsules labeled as dietary supplements that make unproven drug claims about protecting consumers from the harms that come from sun exposure without meeting the FDA’s standards for safety and effectiveness.”
The agency sent Warning Letters to several companies it claimed were not delivering on advertised benefits and were putting consumers at risk. The products made unproven drug claims by declaring they protect consumers from sun exposure without meeting FDA’s standards for safety and effectiveness.
The companies that received Warning Letters offer products such as Advanced Skin Brightening Formula, Sunsafe Rx, Solaricare and Sunergetic, and were called out by FDA as putting consumers at risk by giving them “a false sense of security that a dietary supplement could prevent sunburn, reduce early skin aging caused by the sun, or protect from the risks of skin cancer.” These companies were instructed to correct all violations associated with their products and were advised to review product websites and labeling to ensure claims don’t violate federal law.
More Men Interested in Beauty From Within
As people become increasingly concerned about what they put into and onto their bodies, there has been a strong growth opportunity for nutricosmetics. Increasingly, consumers are accepting of the idea that applying products to the skin is not always as efficient as consuming beauty from within supplements. Hence, they are looking to brands that offer solutions to improve and maintain beauty from the inside out without invasive and expensive treatments.
As a result, there is a lucrative target for men’s health and beauty. Men are becoming more aware of ways they can improve their overall health, with millennials driving the male beauty industry. According to research commissioned by Lycored, men are more likely to take ingestible skin care products than women.
When Lycored asked 480 male and female consumers in the U.K. and France about their attitudes toward skin care, health and appearance, the company found that men were far more open to the idea of ingestible skin care than women. Actually, 74% of men said the idea of taking a supplement for skin health or beauty was normal, compared to 58% of women.
This may be due in part to the convenience of skin care supplements, as men were also found to be less inclined to spend time applying topical products than women; 37% wanted to spend less time on their skin care routine, while only 28% of women said the same.
“Men have long been growing in importance as consumers of skin care, and our research shows this applies to ingestible products just as much as topical,” said Zev Ziegler, head of global brand & marketing, health, at Lycored. “The potential of the male beauty from within market is huge.”
Indeed, this industry sector is likely to surge as traditional gender stereotypes continue to become more diverse and flexible, with younger generations becoming more prominent in society. With demand for beauty supplements increasing by 250% since 2016, companies are now expanding their topical cosmetic lines to offer beauty supplements, and recommending their joint use with topical products to improve the appearance of skin and hair in particular.
Collagen, for example, is increasingly popular in claiming to help enhance beauty and youthfulness, while fighting against signs of aging. And as the body starts to produce less collagen between the ages of 20 and 30, the collagen matrix that provides skin’s firmness and structure starts to break down.
Not only does this offer an exciting opportunity for brands, it also opens the door to new opportunities for marketers to create and bring alive both innovative and insightful packaging designs that will engage and connect with their male audience.
Unilever Acquires Stake in Microbiome Beauty Brand Gallinée
Gallinée Ltd, an innovative skin care range focusing on the skin’s microbiome, closed its series A financing round with Unilever Ventures acting as lead investor in early 2018. Gallinée is one of the first personal care brands to focus exclusively on the growing science of the human bacterial ecosystem, a major revolution in health, and a new field of research in dermatology for the treatment of acne and eczema. The investment is Unilever Ventures’ first foray into microbiome-based products, which is a key, emerging beauty trend.
Launched in 2016 by Marie Drago, a French pharmacist with 15 years’ experience working for successful skin care brands, the brand was inspired by her history with autoimmune diseases and her desire to create products that support the skin’s good bacteria. Ms. Drago’s pharmacy thesis was the basis for the patented combination of probiotics, prebiotics, and postbiotics that are the core of the Gallinée range. Designed with sensitive skin in mind—and now tested successfully for atopy-prone skin—the brand has been stocked since April 2016 in Harvey Nichols, and is now available in department stores and pharmacies in France and the U.K., as well as online.
“I am delighted to welcome Unilever Ventures as an investor,” said Ms. Drago. “It is such a great honor for a young company, and their expertise will be invaluable for us. It will allow us to keep innovating in the microbiome field though new studies and products, expand our online business, and extend to new territories, especially the U.S.”
“We have been impressed by Gallinée’s level of innovation and consistency. It is rare to find such young brands with the right mix of science and consumer focus,” said Anna Ohlsson-Baskerville, director with Unilever Ventures.
Investment from Unilever Ventures, along with other strategic partners, will be used to develop the team, extend the range and finance R&D. Gallinée plans to double-down on e-commerce and expand its global direct retail operation.
Frutarom Enters Beauty from Within Market in Asia
Frutarom has entered the beauty from within market with PhytoflORAL, a patented clinically studied cosmeceutical that gives skin a light, even tone and promotes skin health, according to the company. It was developed by IBR, Ltd. (Israel).
PhytoflORAL is composed of a proprietary ingredient derived from non-GMO tomatoes rich in the colorless carotenoids phytoene and phytofluene. It is available as a free-flowing, all-natural powder that can be used in multiple applications, including capsules, chewable tablets, drinks, and pre-mix sachets.
“The recent acquisition of IBR by Frutarom opened a new market of cosmeceuticals, with prospects for rapid growth and added value,” said Yoni Glickman, president of Frutarom Natural Solutions. “IBR brings innovation and all-natural solutions backed by research that perfectly fit into our portfolio.”
Clinical data show that dietary intake of phytoene and phytofluene results in the accumulation of these phytochemicals in the skin, delivering multiple skin health and beauty benefits. These include protection against oxidative damage and sun exposure, as well as capabilities to brighten skin and even out complexion. Moreover, these compounds possess inherent anti-aging properties for skin. These carotenoids inhibit melanin synthesis and control pigmentation through natural mechanisms, assist protecting from UV and oxidative damage, while concurrently reducing inflammation and DNA damage.
In many cultures, flawless skin is correlated with luxury and well-being, while even-toned skin is universally translated into a healthier and more youthful appearance.
“Asia-Pacific is one of the top markets for beauty from within ingredients,” said Liki von Oppen-Bezalel, PhD, vice president of business development and marketing for IBR. “Multiple skin health ingredients, especially so-called ‘skin-whitening’ materials, are unsafe for use. This is why it was vital to develop a safe, research-backed natural ingredient like PhytoflORAL.”
PhytoflORAL has been subject to a number of clinical and in vitro studies that demonstrate its bioactivity. Efficacy was further elucidated through gene expression analysis, the company said.
In one clinical study, PhytoflORAL presented a significant photoprotective effect after 84 days of supplementation, as indicated by a 20% increase in minimum erythemal dose (calculates shortest exposure to UV radiation before reddening of the skin) in 65% of participants. Another study demonstrated a measurable skin lightening effect in 82% of subjects noticeable after 42 days, and increasing after 84 days. In addition, subjects reported enhanced skin radiance, evenness, hydration, and suppleness, and found their skin to be visually healthier and more resistant to sun damage.
IBR developed complementary ingredients to PhytoflORAL for topical use. These products also are rich in phytoene and phytofluene, and available for dual beauty from the inside and outside regimes.
The global active ingredients market for cosmetics was valued at approximately $2.63 billion in 2015. It is projected to reach $4.45 billion by 2026, as reported by Markets and Markets. The primary drivers for this acceleration is increasing awareness among consumers toward skin health and rising demand of consumers to look good. The trend is especially strong in Asia and South America. This awareness is generating a significant demand for cosmetics and personal care products, particularly those for anti-aging, skin-tone evening, and sunscreen. The demand for natural, “green,” environmentally friendly cosmetic products is likewise increasing.
NATRUE Certifies More Than 6,000 Products
The international NATRUE standard continues to help companies deliver quality natural and organic cosmetics that meet consumer expectations. In the summer of 2018, NATRUE reached a milestone of over 6,000 products worldwide that bear the NATRUE seal, keeping the standard at the forefront of the natural and organic Cosmetics (NOC) sector. Global NOC brand leaders and NATRUE founders Weleda, Dr Hauschka, Lavera, Primavera, and Logocos were among the first to carry the NATRUE seal on their products, and over the past decade these pioneers have been joined by many up-and-coming brands. As of June 2018, more than 6,000 NATRUE certified products are now available on the market, from approximatively 230 brands, with more in the pipeline.
The NATRUE Label represents trust and authenticity, setting the standard for what a true natural and organic cosmetic should be, according to the organization. It’s a global seal, recognizable around the world, with brands from 32 different countries. Combined worldwide consumer sales attributable to products carrying the NATRUE logo exceed 1 billion euros.
The NATRUE Label offers a guarantee that brands are committed to fighting greenwashing, both for ingredients and finished products. Criteria set clear requirements for a product’s contents, its naturalness or organic credentials, and focus on authenticity, transparency, and clarity.
The requirements of the NATRUE Label mean that certified products cannot contain mineral oils, silicones, GMOs, microbeads, synthetic fragrances, or artificial preservatives such as parabens. There are also standards for biodegradability of certain ingredients to protect the environment, and a global ban on the use of the seal on products where animal testing is required.
“Now, more than 10 years after the founding of the NATRUE Label and the establishment of its criteria, we are delighted to celebrate the proud milestone of 6,000 certified products,” said Dr. Mark Smith, general director of NATRUE. “This milestone is unquestionably a testament to the dedication and commitment of all our partners on this journey. Our goal remains clear: authenticity and transparency is key to consumer confidence and market growth. We will continue to raise awareness of natural skin care, and to protect and promote this internationally.”
Looking to the future, NATRUE said it will continue to fight for higher quality in the NOC sector. Over the last decade, the market has grown significantly with rising focus on conscious and ethical consumerism. A crucial factor is to maintain consumer trust for continued growth. This can only happen through transparency; meaning all those involved must be proactive in their commitment to eliminate greenwashing to deliver the authenticity consumers demand, the organization said.
Clinical Trial Finds Telos95 Supports Cellular Health
Certified Nutraceuticals, Inc. (CN) lauded positive results of a year-long human clinical trial on its highly purified, proprietary, natural ingredient Telos95—a scientifically validated antioxidant ingredient for telomere health support.
The creation of Telos95 took several years of research and development, including in vitro clinical research by Life Length’s TAT technology of Spain, and now the latest human clinical study conducted by Princeton Consumer Research. The DNA test used in the study was “Cawthon qPCR Assay,” which tested the effectiveness of Telos95.
Telomeres hold information about the path of a subject’s health and may provide an important biomarker of aging. For example, telomere lengths can indicate the age of cells and tend to shorten and fray with age. How fast they shorten and eventually reach senescence (a stage where cells deteriorate and become nonfunctional) depends on genes, environment, stress level, diet, and lifestyle. A DNA test called TeloYear can be used to determine cellular age based on telomere length.
Telos95 is formulated with potent antioxidant polyphenols, according to CN. The company suggested the ingredient can help decrease the time it takes to shorten telomere cellular age. The year-long human clinical trial included 50 subjects. Over the course of six months 25 subjects in group A were instructed to take one 95 mg capsule daily, while group B took two capsules once daily. Results found group A decreased in their TeloYear age on average by 7.43 years, and group B decreased their TeloYear age by 8.52 years.
Forever Beautiful Offers Antioxidant Superfood Mix
A new antioxidant-rich, super food mix aims to help supplement users look and feel beautiful from the inside out. From the company Your Super, the new Forever Beautiful supplement offers holistic nutrition designed to support healthy skin and hair.
The formula includes all organically sourced ingredients, including: chia, a plant-based source of essential fatty acids, fiber, protein, and micronutrients; acai, a Brazilian berry containing antioxidants and phytonutrients; maqui from the Brazilian rainforests and packed with antioxidants and micronutrients, acerola cherries rich in vitamin C; maca, an ancient food from Peru that acts as an adaptogen and is often used for energy and hormonal balance; and blueberry powder sourced from Finland, offering an antioxidant boost.
The product’s suggested serving size is 5 grams (or 1-2 tsp.), and can be blended in a smoothie, acai bowls, or just mixed in water.
Kora Organics Launches Noni Glow Skinfood Supplement
A new, potent, nutrient-dense dietary supplement, Kora Organic’s Noni Glow Skinfood Supplement is designed to support daily beauty and wellness. One single serving helps to energize cellular health and digestive function, according to the company, by providing a concentrated blend of superfruits such as noni, acai, blueberry, mangosteen, and pomegranate. The powdered formula also contains immune-boosting green tea, rose hips, chlorella, and elderberry flower for internal body wellness support. This whole food supplement delivers a synergistic blend of phytonutrients such as antioxidants, polyphenols, anthocyanins, bioflavonoids, and carotenes.
The supplement is designed for daily use, and is vegan, gluten- and dairy-free, non-GMO, preservative- and sugar-free, and does not contain artificial flavors or colors.
NPA’s Natural Seal Program Marks 10 Years
The Natural Products Association’s Natural Seal Program celebrated 10 years of giving consumers the confidence and knowledge to identify natural personal care products in June 2018.
NPA’s Natural Certification for Personal Care Products has certified 937 products and 799 ingredients. All NPA-certified products have been verified to fit the Natural Standard by an independent third-party auditor. In addition to its certification program for Personal Care, NPA offers a separate program for Home Care, launched in 2010.
“More and more Americans are looking for truly natural alternatives to synthetic chemicals for health, wellness, personal, and home care products,” said Daniel Fabricant, president and CEO of NPA. “For the past 10 years NPA has led the movement to bring clarity to the term and developed a standard for natural.”
NPA certified products are at least 95% natural—excluding water, use natural ingredients from a source found in nature, and are processed within the list of allowed processes. Products with the Natural Seal must list all ingredients on the package label and only contain 100% natural fragrances and colorants.
Researchers recommend using higher SPF sunscreen to block cancer-causing rays.
Researchers from King’s College London assessed how much sun protection people actually receive, based on typical use. People often don’t receive the full ultraviolet radiation blocking benefit of sunscreen, because they apply it more thinly than manufacturers recommend. Findings were published in the journal Acta Dermato-Venereology.
The research team assessed the DNA damage in the skin after lowering sunscreen application thickness below 2 mg/cm2—the amount manufacturers use to achieve their SPF rating. Results showed that sunscreen with a sun protection factor (SPF) of 50, applied in a typical way, would at best provide 40% of the expected protection. Findings prompted researchers to suggest that consumers use a much higher SPF sunscreen than they think necessary, to ensure they’re protected from sun damage.
As part of the research, scientists divided a cohort of 16 fair-skinned volunteers into two groups of eight (three women and five men in each). One group received a single UVR exposure, to simulate sunlight, to areas treated with high SPF sunscreen of varying thickness, ranging from 0.75 mg, through 1.3 mg up to 2 mg/cm2.
The other group received exposure on five consecutive days to mimic continuous holiday exposure. The amount of UVR exposure was varied during the course of the experiment, in order to replicate the conditions in holiday destinations, such as Tenerife, Florida, and Brazil.
Biopsies of the UVR exposed areas of skin showed that, for the group repeatedly exposed to UVR, considerable DNA damage was found on the areas that received no sun protection, even though the UVR dose was very low. Damage was reduced when sunscreen was applied at a thickness of 0.75 mg/cm2 and considerably reduced when 2 mg/cm2 of sunscreen was applied, even with much higher UVR doses.
Five days of exposure to high dose UVR with the sunscreen at 2 mg/cm2 showed significantly less damage than just one day’s low UVR dose exposure without sunscreen across all samples.
Report author, professor Antony Young from King’s College London said, “There is no dispute that sunscreen provides important protection against the cancer-causing impact of the sun’s ultra violet rays. However, what this research shows is that the way sunscreen is applied plays an important role in determining how effective it is. Given that most people don’t use sunscreens as tested by manufacturers, it’s better for people to use a much higher SPF than they think is necessary.”