• Login
    • Join
  • Subscribe Free
    • Magazine
    • eNewsletter
    Checkout
    • Magazine
    • News
    • Formulary
    • Exclusives
    • Top Companies
    • Raw Materials
    • End-User
    • Packaging
    • Directories
    • Events
    • Jobs
    • More
  • Magazine
  • News
  • Formulary
  • Exclusives
  • Top Companies
  • Raw Materials
  • End-User
  • Packaging
  • Directories
  • Events
  • Jobs
  • Current / Back Issues
    Features
    Columns
    Editorial
    Digital Edition
    eNewsletter Archive
    Our Team
    Editorial Guidelines
    Subscribe Now
    Advertise Now
    Top Features
    HCPA Builds Key Alliances In & Out of Washington

    NYSCC Suppliers’ Day Is Back on Schedule

    Salon Consumers Seek Wellness, Skincare Benefits in Professional Haircare

    Sustainability Continues To Shape Beauty, Home & Personal Care Packaging

    The Power of Neem in Personal Care Formulas
    Online Exclusives
    Association News
    Breaking News
    Financial News
    Industry News
    International
    Marketing News
    New Products
    News Front
    Packaging News
    Patents
    Personnel
    Regulations
    Snapshots
    Top News
    Live From Shows
    Top News
    Wonder Curl Wins GlossWire's GlossPitch Competition

    Anti-aging Skincare Brand Vitabrid C12 Launches Bestsellers on Amazon

    Botanical Embedded Candles Can Be Fire Hazard, Says National Candle Association

    Caire Beauty to Celebrate Menopause Empowerment Day

    Beautycounter Launches Text Campaign for FDA Safety and Landmark Advancements Act
    Blog
    Online Exclusives
    Glossary
    Infographics
    Podcasts
    Whitepapers
    Videos
    Expert's Opinion
    HappiTV
    eBook
    Surveys
    International Top 30 Report
    Top 50 Report
    Top Companies
    19. Puig

    Young Living

    4. SC Johnson

    34. Combe

    Combe
    Actives
    Functional Ingredients
    Pigments
    Polymers
    Preservatives
    Surfactants

    Wonder Curl Wins GlossWire's GlossPitch Competition

    Botanical Embedded Candles Can Be Fire Hazard, Says National Candle Association

    McKinsey Identifies the Gaps in Black Beauty

    Arxada Disinfectants Are Effective Against the Monkeypox Virus

    Indie Haircare Leader Olaplex Expands Roster with New Broad-Spectrum Clarifying Shampoo
    Air Care/Environmental Fragrance
    AP/Deo
    Color Cosmetics
    Disinfectants
    Fine Fragrance
    Hair Care
    Household Cleaning
    I&I Marketplace
    Laundry Care
    Oral Care
    OTC/Medicated
    Packaging
    Personal Cleansers
    Skin Care
    Sun Care
    Testing

    Wonder Curl Wins GlossWire's GlossPitch Competition

    Anti-aging Skincare Brand Vitabrid C12 Launches Bestsellers on Amazon

    Botanical Embedded Candles Can Be Fire Hazard, Says National Candle Association

    Caire Beauty to Celebrate Menopause Empowerment Day

    Beautycounter Launches Text Campaign for FDA Safety and Landmark Advancements Act
    Lab Equipment
    Mixing
    Packaging
    Testing

    Labskin's Microbiome-Friendly+ Seal of Approval Available in the US

    Sustainability Continues To Shape Beauty, Home & Personal Care Packaging

    Technology Cuts Plastic Decomposition from 500 Years to Three Months

    Aerosol Recycling Initiative Launched by HCPA

    Goodnest Delivers New Options for Sustainable Baby Care Needs
    Contract Manufacturing / Private Label Directory
    Buyer's Guide
    Add New Company
    Corporate Profiles
    International Buyers Guide Companies
    Jeen International

    BotanicalsPlus

    BARALAN

    cosmopak usa

    Croda Inc
    Live From Shows
    Meetings
    Webinars
    Snapshots
    • Magazine
      • Current / Back Issues
      • Features
      • Editorial
      • Columns
      • Digital Edition
      • eNewsletter Archive
      • Subscribe Now
      • Advertise Now
    • Breaking News
    • Formulary
    • Directories
      • Buyer's Guide
      • Contract Manufacturing / Private Label Directory
      • Corporate Profiles
      • Add Your Company
    • Raw Materials
      • Actives
      • Functional Ingredients
      • Pigments
      • Polymers
      • Preservatives
      • Surfactants
    • End-User
      • Air Care/Environmental Fragrance
      • AP/Deo
      • Color Cosmetics
      • Disinfectants
      • Fine Fragrance
      • Hair Care
      • Household Cleaning
      • I&I Marketplace
      • Laundry Care
      • Oral Care
      • OTC/Medicated
      • Packaging
      • Personal Cleansers
      • Skin Care
      • Sun Care
      • Testing
    • Packaging
      • Lab Equipment
      • Mixing
      • Packaging
      • Testing
    • Top Companies
      • International Top 30 Report
      • Top 50 Report
    • Online Exclusives
    • Glossary
    • Experts Opinion
    • Slideshows
    • HappiTV
    • Podcasts
    • Videos
    • Infographics
    • eBook
    • Blog
    • Whitepapers
    • Surveys
      • R & D Salary Survey
      • Sales & Marketing Salary Survey
    • Job Banks
    • Events
      • Industry Events
      • Live from show Events
      • Webinars
    • About Us
      • About Us
      • Contact Us
      • Advertise With Us
      • Privacy Policy
      • Terms of Use
    Breaking News

    Understanding the Wrinkle

    ...

    Related CONTENT
    • Cle de Peau Beaute’s New Anti-Aging Skin Care Aims to Eliminate Tech Neck
    • Ahava Apple of Sodom Collection Helps Diminish the Signs of Aging
    • Dermatology Provider Ever/Body To Roll Out Its Own Skin Care Products
    • Monteloeder’s Zeropollution Improves Signs of Skin Aging in Clinical Study
    • Maybelline Taps Storm Reid as Global Spokesmodel
    Paolo Giacomoni, PhD, Insight Analysis Consulting09.06.18
    The single worst threat to beauty and self-image perceived by Caucasian women in the Western world is the wrinkle, according to several surveys conducted in recent years. In contrast, Asian women are more worried by discoloration and brown spots, which will be detailed in an upcoming column.


    As a matter of fact, the wrinkle not only alters the smoothness of the surface, it also betrays the age of the person; this is unacceptable in a world where appearing young is mandatory.


    The personal care industry has developed a plethora of products aimed at fighting wrinkles, and yet the threat remains. Often, when a problem takes long to be solved, it is because the cause of the problem is only partially understood. So, let us ask again: what is a wrinkle?


    It is quite remarkable that there are no wrinkles on “horizontal” parts of our body and that the wrinkles only are formed on the “vertical” parts of the body. Indeed, there are no wrinkles on the scalp and there are no wrinkles on the shoulders; wrinkles accumulate on the forehead, around the eyes, on the cheeks and around the lips.


    A Neuro-Muscular Issue


    In a moment of creative enthusiasm, somebody once suggested that the wrinkle is a wound. That assessment could not be further from reality. In a wound, skin cells multiply quickly and synthetize collagens, elastic fibers and ground substance to fill the gap. In a wrinkle, all of these activities are absent and there is no bleeding. For sure, it can be said that a wrinkle is a wound in someone’s beauty but, truth be told, wrinkles and wounds do not have anything in common.


    Whereas a wrinkle is a groove in a healthy, intact skin, a wound is a bleeding opening. In a wound, collagen is produced at an accelerated rate and in order to quickly fill the gap, skin cells produce fibers and ground substance and scar tissue is formed, which is disorganized and not elastic. So, if to reduce wrinkles one were to use wound healing factors or other accelerators of the rate of synthesis of collagens, one might indeed generate a lot of scar-like tissue and make things worse.


    The fact is, the damage in the skin is an ancillary cause in the onset of the wrinkle: the wrinkle is a neuro-muscular problem!


    Surgeons, doctors and dermatologists all know that patients under general anesthesia do not have wrinkles and that hemiplegic patients do not have wrinkles on the paralyzed portion of their faces. And we all know that an injection of the neuro-muscular toxin Botox induces the removal of wrinkles for several weeks. A wrinkle is a neuro-muscular problem, which manifests itself as the appearance of grooves on the face. These grooves correspond to the sites where the skin is attached to the muscles via the nervous tissue.


    With time and age, the skin’s network of elastic fibers gets disorganized. The skin gets thinner because of the loss of the water-retaining capability of the dermis. Aged skin is less resilient, less elastic, less firm and more deformable. Subjected to the stretch effect of the gravitational force, the surface of aged skin becomes larger. Aged skin does therefore “hang down” from the sites where it is attached to the muscles and grooves will appear on its surface. This is how we understand wrinkles are formed.1,2


    What scientific frame should be adopted to design interventions to fight wrinkles? It is apparent that considering the wrinkle as the consequence of a purely dermal damage is an incomplete approach to the problem. Drawing a section of the dermis as if it were resting on a horizontal plane and representing the wrinkle as a concavity in the line separating the inside of the skin from the outside is not only wrong but also misleading. Such a schematic drawing could allow one to infer the existence of a “bottom” of the wrinkle and indeed some authors propose to eliminate wrinkles by filling the wrinkle from the bottom...quite difficult task to perform because a wrinkle does not have a bottom!


    Filling a Need


    It has been reported in the past that topically treating postmenopausal skin with estrogen provoked the thickening of the dermis and the appearance of wrinkles was reduced.3 This is to be expected because estrogen promotes water retention. This result allowed one to understand that increasing the thickness of the dermis can be beneficial to the battle against wrinkles, and some dermatologists do actually inject “fillers” into the dermis. By doing so they are able to reduce the wrinkle’s visibility. It has been later understood that the presence of these “fillers” in the dermis is perceived by resident dermal fibroblasts as a “gap” in the tissue, and as a consequence, they produce new collagens, the dermis becomes more resilient and the skin “hangs down” from the sites where the cutaneous tissue is attached to the muscular system, in a less conspicuous manner.


    When one wants to avoid invasive treatments and steer clear from using prescription drugs, one can approach the wrinkle problem by topical application of formulas that offer an immediate, albeit transient, solution—also called the “Cinderella Effect” because of its short duration. Such an effect can be obtained, for instance, by boosting the forces pulling epidermal keratinocytes toward one another, or by applying film formers with a tightening effect together with the appropriate additives to prolong this effect. Cosmetic chemists have a panoply of ingredients and a wealth of formulating experience that can be called upon to find the best solutions to the wrinkle problem. 


    References
    1. Piérard GE, Lapière CM. (1989) The microanatomical basis of facial frown lines. Arch Dermatol. 125:1090-1092.
    2. Piérard GE, Uhoda I, Piérard-Franchimont C. (2003) From skin microrelief to wrinkles. An area ripe for investigation. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2:21-28.
    3. Brincat M, Moniz CJ, Studd JW, Darby A, Magos A, Emburey G, Versi E. (1985) Long-term effects of the menopause and sex hormones on skin thickness. Br J Obstet Gynaecol 92 : 256-259.


    Paolo Giacomoni, PhD
    Insight Analysis Consulting
    paologiac@gmail.com
    516-769-6904

    Paolo Giacomoni acts as an independent consultant to the skin care industry. He served as executive director of research at Estée Lauder and was head of the department of biology with L’Oréal. He has built a record of achievements through research on DNA damage and metabolic impairment induced by UV radiation as well as on the positive effects of vitamins and antioxidants. He has authored more than 100 peer-reviewed publications and has more than 20 patents.
    Related Searches
    • phd
    • Skin Care
    • lips
    • asian
    Related Knowledge Center
    • Skin Care
    • Actives
    Suggested For You
    Cle de Peau Beaute’s New Anti-Aging Skin Care Aims to Eliminate Tech Neck Cle de Peau Beaute’s New Anti-Aging Skin Care Aims to Eliminate Tech Neck
    Ahava Apple of Sodom Collection Helps Diminish the Signs of Aging Ahava Apple of Sodom Collection Helps Diminish the Signs of Aging
    Dermatology Provider Ever/Body To Roll Out Its Own Skin Care Products Dermatology Provider Ever/Body To Roll Out Its Own Skin Care Products
    Monteloeder’s Zeropollution Improves Signs of Skin Aging in Clinical Study Monteloeder’s Zeropollution Improves Signs of Skin Aging in Clinical Study
    Maybelline Taps Storm Reid as Global Spokesmodel Maybelline Taps Storm Reid as Global Spokesmodel
    Sun Care Market Set to Rebound in 2021 as Travel Returns Sun Care Market Set to Rebound in 2021 as Travel Returns
    Givaudan Launches Nootropics Givaudan Launches Nootropics
    Postbiotics, DNA and Endorphin Peptide: New Concepts for Microbiome and Anti-Wrinkle Postbiotics, DNA and Endorphin Peptide: New Concepts for Microbiome and Anti-Wrinkle
    China May Relax Animal Testing for Cosmetics China May Relax Animal Testing for Cosmetics
    CoverGirl Rolls Out 2021 Innovations CoverGirl Rolls Out 2021 Innovations
    Skin Care Actives  During  Inactivity Skin Care Actives During Inactivity
    Silab Launches Erisium Silab Launches Erisium
    CEW Beauty Award Winners CEW Beauty Award Winners
    Whirlpool Enters Liquid Detergent Market Whirlpool Enters Liquid Detergent Market
    Ultra Chemical Debuts Bicosome Technology Ultra Chemical Debuts Bicosome Technology

    Related Content

    • Cle de Peau Beaute’s New Anti-Aging Skin Care Aims to Eliminate Tech Neck

      Cle de Peau Beaute’s New Anti-Aging Skin Care Aims to Eliminate Tech Neck

      Synactif Neck and Decolette Cream nourishes and visibly firms the neck while alleviating wrinkles and sagging due to long-term smartphone and computer use.
      09.21.21

    • Ahava Apple of Sodom Collection Helps Diminish the Signs of Aging

      Ahava Apple of Sodom Collection Helps Diminish the Signs of Aging

      The Apple of Sodom Collection's innovative skincare technology offers consumers a Botox-like alternative for advanced wrinkle smoothing and skin re-plumping.
      09.16.21

    • Skin Care
      Dermatology Provider Ever/Body To Roll Out Its Own Skin Care Products

      Dermatology Provider Ever/Body To Roll Out Its Own Skin Care Products

      Will use $38M Series B to expand locations and offer its own prescription treatments.
      Christine Esposito, Managing Editor 05.28.21


    • Skin Care
      Monteloeder’s Zeropollution Improves Signs of Skin Aging in Clinical Study

      Monteloeder’s Zeropollution Improves Signs of Skin Aging in Clinical Study

      Effectively reduces negative effects of pollution on skin health.
      Charles Sternberg, Assistant Editor 05.14.21

    • Color Cosmetics
      Maybelline Taps Storm Reid as Global Spokesmodel

      Maybelline Taps Storm Reid as Global Spokesmodel

      Reid will share her voice with the brand’s global community.
      Charles Sternberg, Assistant Editor 03.19.21

      Trending
      • SK Capital Taps Asim Bhatia As New Director, Business Development
      • Reliance Mulls Revlon Acquisition
      • Band-Aid Brand Enters Acne Care With New Blemish Patch
      • Mario Badescu Beauty Brand Debuts Martha Stewart Facial At NYC Event
      • Dial Gains Leaping Bunny Certification
      Breaking News
      • Wonder Curl Wins GlossWire's GlossPitch Competition
      • Anti-aging Skincare Brand Vitabrid C12 Launches Bestsellers on Amazon
      • Botanical Embedded Candles Can Be Fire Hazard, Says National Candle Association
      • Caire Beauty to Celebrate Menopause Empowerment Day
      • Beautycounter Launches Text Campaign for FDA Safety and Landmark Advancements Act
      View Breaking News >
      CURRENT ISSUE

      June 2022

      • Skin Care Needs In a Post-Covid World
      • Salon Hair Care Trends
      • Sustainability Shapes Beauty, Home & Personal Care Packages
      • Formulating with Neem in Personal Care Formulas
      • Suppliers' Day Trade Show by Society of Cosmetic Chemists
      • Household and Commercial Products Midyear Meeting Review
      • Household & Personal Care Trade Association Directory 2022

      Cookies help us to provide you with an excellent service. By using our website, you declare yourself in agreement with our use of cookies.
      You can obtain detailed information about the use of cookies on our website by clicking on "More information”.

      • About Us
      • Privacy Policy
      • Terms And Conditions
      • Contact Us

      follow us

      Subscribe
      Nutraceuticals World

      Latest Breaking News From Nutraceuticals World

      Florida Food Products Acquires Javo
      Roquette Launches Nutralys Rice Protein
      New IADSA Chair Lauds Explorations of Supplementation in Healthcare Policy
      Coatings World

      Latest Breaking News From Coatings World

      The Southern Society for Coatings Technology's 84th Annual Technical Conference A Success
      PPG to Showcase Specialty Automotive, Aerospace Adhesives, Sealants at Adhesives & Bonding Expo
      PPG’s New Paint for a New Start Initiative to Transform 25-plus Schools Worldwide
      Medical Product Outsourcing

      Latest Breaking News From Medical Product Outsourcing

      MPO's Most Read Stories This Week—June 25
      Magnetic Insight Announces $17 Million in Series B Funding
      BreatheSuite Adds Brad Fluegel to its Board
      Contract Pharma

      Latest Breaking News From Contract Pharma

      Pierre Fabre and Lonza Enter Manufacturing Agreement
      MasterControl and Elemental Machines Form Biomanufacturing Partnership
      Qosina Strengthens Aseptic Capabilities
      Beauty Packaging

      Latest Breaking News From Beauty Packaging

      Benefit Exec Joins Madison Reed's Board
      Peroni & Ellis Brooklyn Launch Fragrance Collection Inspired by Italian Spritz Cocktails
      Rhode Is Trending for June, Trendalytics Says
      Happi

      Latest Breaking News From Happi

      Wonder Curl Wins GlossWire's GlossPitch Competition
      Anti-aging Skincare Brand Vitabrid C12 Launches Bestsellers on Amazon
      Botanical Embedded Candles Can Be Fire Hazard, Says National Candle Association
      Ink World

      Latest Breaking News From Ink World

      Weekly Recap: INX’s VC Fund, Screen Industry and Ball Top This Week’s News
      British Coatings Federation Posts Online History
      Orion Announces Price Increases, Reduced Payment Terms
      Label & Narrow Web

      Latest Breaking News From Label & Narrow Web

      PCMC teams with IGT, Fujifilm makes big announcement and more
      Loftware recognized as 'AIDC Company of the Year'
      Schreiner MediPharm highlights sustainability of Needle-Trap technology
      Nonwovens Industry

      Latest Breaking News From Nonwovens Industry

      Tranzonic Names VP of Supply Chain
      Ontex Climate Action Targets Approved by Science-Based Targets Initiative
      Suominen Test Center Assesses Biodegradability of Nonwovens
      Orthopedic Design & Technology

      Latest Breaking News From Orthopedic Design & Technology

      ODT's Most-Read Stories This Week—June 25
      3Spine Inc. Receives IDE Approval for U.S. Pivotal Clinical Trial
      Volume-Based Procurement to Reduce Chinese Orthopedic Market Value
      Printed Electronics Now

      Latest Breaking News From Printed Electronics Now

      Weekly Recap: eMagin, Applied Materials, and Schott Top This Week’s Stories
      NREL Names Jennifer Logan to Leadership Team as CFO
      National Grid Renewables Orders 2 GW of First Solar Modules

      Copyright © 2022 Rodman Media. All rights reserved. Use of this constitutes acceptance of our privacy policy The material on this site may not be reproduced, distributed, transmitted, or otherwise used, except with the prior written permission of Rodman Media.

      AD BLOCKER DETECTED

      Our website is made possible by displaying online advertisements to our visitors.
      Please consider supporting us by disabling your ad blocker.


      FREE SUBSCRIPTION Already a subscriber? Login