Formulary

Instant Under-Eye Bag Relief

Released by Croda 11.01.18

Phase A
Deionized water (Aqua)	61.35
Disodium EDTA	0.20
OptaSenseTM G40 (Croda) (Carbomer)	0.45
Natrosol 250 HHR (Ashland) (Hydroxyethylcellulose)	0.20
Glycerin	3.00
Phase B
Sodium silicate	11.00
50% Citric acid (aq solution)	2.50
Phase C
Crodacol C95 (Croda) (Cetyl alcohol)	2.00
Crodafos CS20A (Croda) (Cetearyl alcohol (and) ceteth-20 phosphate (and) dicetyl phosphate)	3.50
Sensasil PCA (Sederma)	2.00
Crodamol STS (Croda) (PPG-3 benzyl ether myristate)	4.00
Crodamol GTCC (Croda) (Caprylic/capric triglycerides)	2.00
Phase D
Dow Corning 200/350 cst. (Dow Corning) (Dimethicone)	4.00
Dynalift (Sederma)	3.00
Phase E
Phenonip P4 (Clariant) (Phenoxyethanol (and) - methylparaben (and) ethylparaben (and) propylparaben (and)butylparaben)	0.80
Procedure
Combine part A ingredients with medium speed propeller mixing, slowly dispersing the carbomer and hydroxyethylcellulose, while making sure to check for lumps before proceeding. Initiate heating to 45°C and maintain temperature until the water phase is homogenous and free of lumps. In a side kettle, heat all contents of part C to 75-80°C. When part A is at 45°C, slowly add sodium silicate (USE PPE) to the batch and continue medium speed propeller mixing until uniform. Viscosity might go up when adding the sodium silicate because of the carbomer thickening but it will slowly go down when adding the balance of the sodium silicate. The pH of the system will climb to approximately 12. When uniform, qs and add 50% citric acid aqueous solution to the batch to obtain a pH of 6.00-7.00. Continue medium to high speed propeller mixing until uniform. A gradual increase of viscosity is expected. Increase mixing speed as needed. Continue heating the batch at 75-80°C. When parts A, B and C are at 75-80°C and uniform, emulsify by transferring part AB to a homogenizer and add part C to part AB slowly. Homogenize for 5-10 minutes or until uniform. When uniform, stop homogenizing and transfer to side sweep mixing. Cool to room temperature. When the batch is at 50°C, add part D and continue side sweep mixing until uniform. When at 40°C, add part E and continue side sweep mixing until uniform. At room temperature, stop mixing and check specifications.
Properties
Appearance—Medium viscosity off-white emulsion, free of foreign matter; Viscosity (TD@10RPM,1min): 150,000cps +/- 10%; Stability—1 month at 50°C and 12 weeks RT, 40°C, 45oC and 5X - 24 hour freeze-thaw cycle.
More Information
Croda Website: www.crodapersonalcare.com