“Consumers are searching for youth-enhancing products, but without the language associated with it. Terms like ‘anti-aging’ and ‘wrinkle-reducing’ are losing their edge with consumers as the wellness movement grows more prominent in the skin care market,” explained Alyssa Behrendt, research analyst at Kline, Parsippany, NJ. “Instead, products which focus on overall skin health using phrases like ‘renewing’ and ‘transforming’ promote anti-aging products in a positive light, making them more appealing to consumers.”
Behrendt also told Happi that, in her opinion, professional outlets and specialty retailers are improving the in-store experience, but online reviews and brand websites are the primary sources for consumers currently shopping the skin care sector.
“Clean beauty is also rising in popularity as marketers look to differentiate themselves from greenwashing. To find these products, searching online remains the dominant retail channel,” she said.
A Valuable Market
In the mass market, facial skin care sales rose 5.8% to $3.9 billion, according to data from Information Resources Inc. (IRI) for total US multi-outlet (supermarkets, drugstores, mass market retailers, military commissaries and select club and dollar retail chains) for the 52 weeks ended Nov. 4, 2018. Facial cleansers soared 11.9% to $1.5 billion, while facial anti-aging was static at $1 billion. Facial moisturizer sales leaped 16% to $574.7 million while acne treatments slipped 0.6% to $571.5 million. Body anti-aging tumbled 15% to $15.3 million—but hand and body lotion sales increased 6.4% to $2.1 billion.
Not covered in this article but part of the data, sales depilatories fell 3.4% to $147.9 million and fade/bleach dropped 10.9% to $68.9 million.
For the 12 months ended October 2018, US skin care sales increased 16% to $5.6 billion in the prestige category, according to the The NPD Group.
“We continue to see natural brands and entry price categories fuel the skin care category, but the big shift this year is the renewed interest in new products from legacy classics in the anti-aging category,” said Larissa Jensen, beauty industry analyst, NPD.
The dermatological products market is also likely to grow at a steady pace in the long run, as per the latest report by Fact.MR. The demand for dermatological products continues to remain influenced with new formulations developed by manufacturers to treat various skin conditions and diseases. The demand for dermo-cosmetic products combining OTC and prescription products to treat acne, skin infections, atopic dermatitis and other skin conditions is also increasing. The study estimated that sales of dermatological products were expected to surpass $13 billion by the end of 2018.
The demand is likely to be the highest among female consumers. Owing to increasing skin diseases such as acne, rosacea and skin cancer in women, the majority of demand in dermatological products comes from female customers. Also, over-the-counter anti-aging dermatological products are gaining popularity among women.
While many know Giuliana Rancic from E! News, she’s also a beauty entrepreneur. After being diagnosed with breast cancer at 36, Rancic was determined to find skin care products that were “safe to use,” in her words.
Rancic wanted to create an inclusive line that provided clean, effective and gentle skin care solutions for people of all ages and ethnicities. So, she teamed up with Hain Celestial to make create Fountain of Truth. The brand’s hero technology is the Bio-Ferment Complex of fermented botanical- and earth-derived ingredients of zinc, iron, copper, magnesium and wakame seaweed, which helps to achieve more luminous skin.
Fountain of Truth Products span Good Day Souffle Hydrating Moisturizer with SPF 15 to a Honey Glow Mask to Take It Off Cleansing Balm. Its hero product is The Truth Insta-Face Lift Elixir.
In other product news, the monodose capsule is still popular at longstanding brands such as Elizabeth Arden. The format allows for targeted and precise dosing, and along with a meticulous manufacturing process, it helps to protect sensitive ingredients such as retinol from light and air exposure, ensuring the potency of every application, according to Arden. The company’s new Retinol Ceramide Capsules Line Erasing Night Serum combines the benefits of retinol with the moisture-boosting and skin barrier repair benefits of ceramides. Together, they visibly diminish the look of lines and wrinkles, and improve skin texture, tone and clarity to reveal dramatically younger-looking skin.
Retinol is also trending at Estée Lauder with its newest creation, Perfectionist Pro Rapid Renewal Retinol Treatment, which the brand described as a professionally-inspired formula that delivers the skin-renewing strength of pure retinol to reveal a dramatically smoother, more even-toned look in just 28 days. The formula pairs a clinically effective grade of skin-renewing retinol with potent collagen boosters to achieve noticeable results, according to Estée Lauder. A specialized polymer system helps to form a time-release system for a slow, controlled delivery of retinol into skin over several hours. And, a hyaluronic acid-infused formula helps plump up fine, dry lines from the inside out.
Inspired by professional dermatologist procedures, Estée Lauder also introduced Perfectionist Pro Instant Resurfacing Peel 9.9% AHAs + BHA. The treatment balances a high concentration of alpha hydroxy acids with hyaluronic acid and a patented anti-irritation ingredient.
This powerful “micro-facial” peel contains a potent acid blend of 9.9% AHAs—including glycolic, tartaric and citric acids. Engineered to be self-buffering, this concentrated AHA blend helps maintain a higher refinishing potency. This formula, featuring salicylic acid, helps to rapidly shed dead skin cells, dissolve pore-clogging debris and improve natural cell turnover.
Drops are also making a little go a long way in the skin care sector. Rodial Collagen Drops contain a 30% Collagen Complex designed to support skin renewal and target multiple signs of visible aging, according to the company. This protein re-densifies the complexion, aids skin elasticity and prevents the visible formation of wrinkles to reveal a visibly hydrated, plump complexion, said the company. This serum is part of Rodial’s collection of Booster Drops, highly concentrated, single ingredient serum formulas designed to supercharge skin care regimes. Meanwhile, new Soft Focus Glow Drops is a skin care/makeup hybrid serum that brightens the complexion with a gentle shimmer to instantly boost luminosity and glow. The smoothing formula creates an illuminating base for makeup application and can be used on its own for a soft focus, dewy complexion. Antioxidant ingredients deliver more skin-caring benefits by promoting healthy-looking skin while the rosy formula instantly provides a soft-focus effect.
Clinique is offering a custom fit on its latest skin care system. New Clinique iD, is the brand’s first custom-blend hydration set made specifically for each skin type and skin concern.
According to the company, Clinique was the first beauty brand to introduce the idea of a custom-fit regimen in 1968, with its iconic 3-Step system. By reimagining the regimen for the modern consumer, Clinique is empowering consumers to fully control and create the ideal moisturizer. The innovative, specially-developed packaging delivers the precise proportions in every pump with a 90% hydration base and 10% active cartridge concentrate available in 15 combinations (For more, read “Clinique Goes Custom with New iD Range,” on Happi.com.)
Eyes are the focus at DERMAdoctor in 2019. This Spring, DERMAdoctor is launching DD Eye Dermatologically Defining Eye Radiance Cream SPF 30 which is illuminator, treatment and sun protection in one.
“The consumer is willing to pay for a highly effective product provided there is a perception that results are worth the investment,” noted Dr. Audrey Kunin, founder and chief creative officer of DERMAdoctor, Kansas City, MO. “Affordable luxury problem-solvers is the key niche in this market.”
Making Waves in Mass
J&J is bursting with skin care news in 2019. Aveeno’s new Positively Radiant MaxGlow connection is charged with kiwi and soy to enhance radiance, according to the company. Products span from Infusion Drops to a Peel Off Mask. Also new is the Cica collection for troubled textures. Cica is inspired by the French word “cicatrisation” meaning healing. It includes a skin relief ointment with triple oat complex and shea butter, a balm and hand/foot masks.
Clean & Clear is “C-ing” the light with its new Lemon and Vitamin C range. According to the company, this collection helps cut through oil and dissolve dirt deep into the pores. Products are a cleanser, scrub, toner, exfoliating “slices” (pads) and cleansing wipes.
Garnier is also harnessing the power of green beauty with its Facial Mists with 99% naturally-derived ingredients. Two all-new facial mists join Garnier’s Soothing Facial Mist with Rose Water within the 96% naturally-derived skin care line: Hydrating Facial Mist with Aloe Juice and Balancing Facial Mist with Green Tea. These mists are vegan and made with 99% naturally-derived ingredients sourced from a variety of natural raw materials including soybean, sugar beet, rice and wheat. Each mist instantly hydrates skin and is suitable for use as a primer underneath makeup or over it to help set and improve wear throughout the day, according to the brand.
Garnier’s new Glow Boost Collection with Apricot line is free of parabens, petroleum, silicones, microbeads, dyes and sulfates. The range includes Garnier Glow Boost Illuminating Moisturizer with apricot extract and 96% naturally-derived ingredients. This glow-boosting lotion, formulated with apricot extract, shea butter and illuminating pigment pearls, gives an instant natural-looking glow and more even, healthier-looking skin over time. Also from Garnier is Glow Boost 2-in-1 Facial Mask + Scrub, which is made with 100% naturally-derived exfoliants. This product can also be used alone as a daily scrub.
Henkel is extending its beauty portfolio with the launch of Nature Box, a new brand that combines effective beauty care with cold pressed oils and certain sustainably-sourced ingredients. With five product lines featuring 100% cold-pressed oil from coconuts, avocados, apricots, almonds and macadamia nuts, Nature Box hair and body care products are vegan. The range comprises 22 items, including 11 body care products.
Vaseline is introducing its next generation formulas with new Vaseline Clinical Care, billed as a breakthrough line of dermatologist-tested hypoallergenic body products aimed to rescue hard-to-heal dry skin.
According to the company, while other lotions only temporarily relieve surface hydration, Clinical Care lotions deeply strengthen skin’s moisture barrier using a unique Barrier Repair Complex, which is proven to transform skin from extremely dry to healed in five days. The new line features six products that offer treatment and relief from a variety of skin concerns.
New Olay Mist Ultimate Hydration Essence Energizing with Vitamin C & Bergamot and Olay Mist Ultimate Hydration Essence Calming with Aloe Leaf & Chamomile debuts from P&G. The company is also reporting success with its solid stick masks with 100% pure kaolin clay spanning from Glow Boost to Pore Detox.
“We noticed a rise in stick-based products throughout 2018,” observed Dana Kreutzer, senior analyst, Kline. Kreutzer also noted that “glow giving products” are also popular among consumers, attracting consumers by calling out “brightening” and “illuminating” claims, or highlighting a staple ingredient, vitamin C.
The Outlook Is Bright
Formulating with cannabidiol (CBD) remains buzzworthy this year, observed Dr. Angela J. Lamb, assistant professor of dermatology, Icahn School of Medicine at Mount Sinai, New York.
“CBD is hot now because the area is really unknown. We are not 100% sure what it does for skin, so folks are willing to try,” she told Happi.
According to Kreutzer of Kline, advanced skin care “gadgets” and technology will continue to enter the space.
Global climate change and pollution are looking to be challenges for skin, added Kunin of DERMAdoctor, and brands are turning to offer solutions to this rising issue.