On the world stage, skin care sales totaled $124.3 billion in 2017, an increase of 27.7% during the past five years (2012-2017) and with a 5% compound annual growth rate (CAGR). Meanwhile in Latin America, the category grew 41.4% during this period, with a 7.2% CAGR where Brazil, Mexico and Argentina are the largest skin care markets on the continent. The gains were less pronounced in Brazil, where sales rose 23% with a CAGR of 4.2%. However, through 2022, Brazil stands out as the forecast is to reach 22.9% retail value growth with a CAGR of 4.2%, compared to 16.3% and a CAGR of 3.1% globally, which is ahead of 13.2% and a CAGR of 2.5% to Latin America.
Brazil’s own Natura is the market leader in Latin America, followed by L´Oréal, Beiersdorf, Avon and Boticário, another domestic player. In Brazil itself, Natura and Boticário lead the way followed by Avon, Beiersdorf and Johnson & Johnson.
L’Oréal posted good gains within the premium skin care sector over the review period, due to continuous investments in brands such as La Roche-Posay and Vichy, which rolled out products developed exclusively for the Brazilian market.
In terms of active ingredients, according to studies conducted by the Brazilian Association of Cosmetics, Toiletry and Perfumery Industry (ABIHPEC), there is a re-evaluation of classics, such as hyaluronic acid and vitamin C. Components that balance the natural skin microflora or that fight the harmful effects of pollution have been successful and must generate new launches in the coming years. In fact, according to Mintel, 22% of Brazilian women are interested in using facial anti-pollution products.
Facial masks are in demand as well. According to Mintel, 22% of Brazilian women use facial masks or peels. Interest in micellar water remains high. These products are said to act like magnets to efficiently catch makeup, dirt and sebum with no rinsing or harsh rubbing. Indeed, masks and micellar waters are included among the latest launches from the likes of L´Oréal Paris and Nivea.
L’Oréal’s Skin Experts created a range of facial masks, powered by three different clays, that promise to smooth and beautify skin in 10 minutes. The Máscara Detox Esfoliante (detox and exfoliating mask), enhanced with red algae extract, promises a polished, pore-minimized and smooth complexion skin. The Máscara Detox Iluminadora (detox and brighten mask), formulated with charcoal, promises to clean out pores by capturing impurities such as dirt, oil and pollution. The Máscara Detox Matificante with Eucalyptus addresses shiny and oily skin, promising to reveal a clear, matte and refreshed complexion.
Recently L’Oréal Paris brought to Brazil the Bi-Phase Micellar Water, for ultra-effective makeup removal that promises a clean and soft skin with no greasy residue. Similarly, Nivea launched two one-minute masks. The Urban Detox for refining pores with a self-heating, translucent gel-formula that promises to detoxify skin by reducing environmental stressors and urban pollutants for smooth and healthy-looking skin. The Urban Detox moisturizes and also promises to detoxify skin to promote a radiant complexion. Nivea also launched MicellAir 7-in-1, which offers multiple benefits in one product: deep cleansing, makeup removal, toning, refreshing, smoothing, moisturizing and soothing.
Of Primary Concern
According to Fabiana Almeida, manager of Natura´s facial care category, a major concern of Brazilian women are spots and a lack of skin uniformity, which trail wrinkles around the eyes as primary skin concerns. Natura has developed the exclusive Clearing System for its skin care line Chronos with three products that promise to treat different types of pigments such as UV damage, hormonal changes, aging and melasmas, with perceived results in two weeks. The Sérum Intensivo Multiclareador (multi clearing intensive serum) contains aroeira concentrate, which is a potent regulator of melanin production. The formula also contains 10% vitamin C to inhibit melanin synthesis and ferulic acid, which inhibits free radical formation. The product also contains 4% glycolic acid to exfoliate skin and stimulate cellular renewal. Protetor Clareador FPS 70 (clearing protector SPF 70) also contains aroeira concentrate and niacinamide which promises to reduce melanin production. The formula is available in two colors and has a dry-touch, fast-absorbing formula. New Creme Clareador Colo e Mãos FPS 30 (décolletage and hands clearing cream SPF 30) promises to moisturize, protect against aging signs and reduce the appearance of dark spots. It is also formulated with aroeira concentrate and niacinamide.
Natura also developed the new Revitalizing Platform through two products with anti-pollution and anti-stress technology that promises to repair damage, stimulate natural defenses and slow the appearance of wrinkles, blemishes and sagging. The Concentrado Revitalizante (revitalizing concentrate) is formulated with sapucainha, which has potent anti-micro-damage action, reducing the factors responsible for the formation of wrinkles, flaccidity and blemishes. Beyond polyphenols derived from ginger, a potent antioxidant, the product also contains SymUrban, a synthetic molecule that promises to reduce the pollution effects on skin. The Fluido Multiprotetor FPS 50 (multiprotective fluid SPF 50) is a daily facial protector that promises to act against aggressors that accelerate premature aging. It is said to reduce skin collagen loss, moisturize and reduce pollution effects on skin. It is also formulated with sapucainha, as well as polyphenols, grape seed extract, aroeira and green tea.
La Roche-Posay develops products exclusively for Brazilian consumers. For example, moving in step with the global personalization trend, Anthelios Color Dose is a mineral pigment with vitamin E and SPF 15. The formula provides UV protection, as well as color without changing the texture of sunscreen.
In addition, the product creates a uniform canvas and disguises imperfections with two to four drops. It even matches the diversity of Brazilian skin tones with six color options: light beige, light golden beige, medium beige, medium golden beige, brown and dark brown.
Vichy has launched the Idéal Soleil Clarify FPS 60, a 4-in-1 formula, also developed exclusively for Brazilians. It promises to protect skin against damage caused by UV rays and light, to clear sun spots. Available in three colors (light, medium and dark), the product also promises a long-lasting, high coverage, matte finish. It is formulated with actives like glycyrrhizinate of dipotassium, neohesperidine and lipo hydroxyl acid.
Adcos, a Brazilian company that has developed “dermocosmetics” for 25 years, recently launched recently the Derma Complex Anti-aging for body. The lotion is formulated with vitamin C, which has antioxidant benefits, improves skin firmness and luminosity, and protects against the effects of air pollution.
It also has hyaluronic acid for hydration and filling; prebiotics, designed to enhance skin’s immune protection; omega 6, 7 and 9 to strengthen the hydrolipidic barrier; vitamin E; caffeine; ceramides; mica base; shea butter; soy wax; and glycerin.
Mantecorp Skincare, a Brazilian
dermocosmetics brand owned by Hypera Pharma, added Glycare Sérum to its glycolic acid line, Glycare. The formula contains a glycolic acid nanoparticle in a 3D matrix to control oiliness, reduce pores and impart uniform skin tone, according to the company.
Tracking Consumer Behavior
According to a recent study conducted by Mintel, Brazilians who say they have dry skin (60%) are more likely to use body care products only after shower than those with oily (51%) or combination skin (51%). However, it is precisely these consumers who should use body products more frequently, to ensure a well-hydrated skin.
Skin care products that communicate
prolonged hydration are well-received by consumers. In addition, brands that use natural ingredients in their formulas could develop specific products for dry skin, since 47% of Brazilians who say to have this type of skin claim that products with natural ingredients are important to them. In comparison, 38% of Brazilians with oily skin say that natural ingredients are important.
O Boticário`s Nativa Spa line is formulated with 100% pure oil extracted from quinoa seed grown in Peru’s Highland. The formulation promises to increase collagen (70%) and elastin (300%).
The newest line addition is Karite Nativa, which protects and moisturizes skin with a combination of shea butter and quinoa. The lineup includes body cream for dry areas, lotion, oil, bar soap massager and hand cream.
Market research and analysis group Mintel also pointed out that among Brazilians who claim to have oily body skin, 41% say they do not use any hand products; 38% do not use any foot products and 22% do not use any body care products.
Perhaps they do not feel the need to hydrate, or they may think that the skin become even greasier with these products. A formula’s fast-absorbing properties may attract some Brazilians who have oily skin as 50% of survey respondents who claim to have oily skin consider fast absorption to be a major benefit in body products.
Whether formulating for oily or dry skin, skin care opportunities abound in Brazil, according to Mintel. And personalized formulas in the future should attract even more consumers to novel skin care products.
Daniela Ferreira is a marketing and communication professional in both consumer and B2B cosmetic markets. At present she is master´s degree student in fashion program at São Paulo University (USP) with research project about fashion and fragrance and also including works presented at conferences. Her expertise comprises managing and launching products, communication planning and market studies for identifying new business opportunities. She also has a blog about perfume, its interactions and insights for the market (https://olfativo360.com.br/)