• Login
    • Join
  • Subscribe Free
    • Magazine
    • eNewsletter
    Checkout
    • Magazine
    • News
    • Formulary
    • Exclusives
    • Top Companies
    • Raw Materials
    • End-User
    • Packaging
    • Directories
    • Events
    • Jobs
    • More
  • Magazine
  • News
  • Formulary
  • Exclusives
  • Top Companies
  • Raw Materials
  • End-User
  • Packaging
  • Directories
  • Events
  • Jobs
  • Current / Back Issues
    Features
    Columns
    Editorial
    Digital Edition
    eNewsletter Archive
    Our Team
    Editorial Guidelines
    Subscribe Now
    Advertise Now
    Top Features
    ACI Is Front & Center During the Pandemic

    Sun Care Market Set to Rebound in 2021 as Travel Returns

    Making Up for Lost Time

    All’s Well with Wellness

    Help for Indies
    Online Exclusives
    Association News
    Breaking News
    Financial News
    Industry News
    International
    Marketing News
    New Products
    News Front
    Packaging News
    Patents
    Personnel
    Regulations
    Snapshots
    Top News
    Live From Shows
    Top News
    Dr. Sheffield’s Adds New Toothpaste Flavors

    First Two Hand Sanitizers Are Certified by Green Seal

    Elizabeth Arden Taps Supermodel and Actress Sui He

    Beauty and The Burrito Bowl

    Croda Places Platinum by EcoVadis for Sustainability Efforts
    Blog
    Online Exclusives
    Infographics
    Podcasts
    Whitepapers
    Videos
    Expert's Opinion
    HappiTV
    eBook
    Surveys
    International Top 30 Report
    Top 50 Report
    Top Companies
    18. Pola Orbis

    22. Belcorp

    7. Ecolab

    34. WD-40

    25. Puig
    Actives
    Functional Ingredients
    Pigments
    Polymers
    Preservatives
    Surfactants

    The Fragrance Foundation Celebrates Fragrance Day

    China To End Animal Testing for Imported 'Ordinary' Cosmetics

    Inolex Appoints VP Marketing

    Croda International Acquires Alban Muller

    In Pursuit of Perfection
    Air Care/Environmental Fragrance
    AP/Deo
    Color Cosmetics
    Disinfectants
    Fine Fragrance
    Hair Care
    Household Cleaning
    I&I Marketplace
    Laundry Care
    Oral Care
    OTC/Medicated
    Packaging
    Personal Cleansers
    Skin Care
    Sun Care
    Testing

    Pandemic Lifts Cleaning & Personal Care Sales in 2020

    Dr. Sheffield’s Adds New Toothpaste Flavors

    First Two Hand Sanitizers Are Certified by Green Seal

    Elizabeth Arden Taps Supermodel and Actress Sui He

    Beauty and The Burrito Bowl
    Lab Equipment
    Mixing
    Packaging
    Testing

    Sustainable Cosmetics Summit is Online in June

    A Tube Ready for Prime Time

    Ecovia's Sustainable Cleaning Products Summit Goes Online (March 23-25)

    Burt’s Bees Outlines New Sustainability Goals

    Secret, Old Spice Add Refillable Deo Packaging
    Contract Manufacturing / Private Label Directory
    Buyer's Guide
    Add New Company
    Corporate Profiles
    International Buyers Guide Companies
    Vantage Specialty Ingredients

    BotanicalsPlus

    Centerchem Inc

    Siltech Corporation

    Resolute Oil
    Live From Shows
    Meetings
    Webinars
    Snapshots
    • Magazine
      • Current / Back Issues
      • Features
      • Editorial
      • Columns
      • Digital Edition
      • eNewsletter Archive
      • Subscribe Now
      • Advertise Now
    • Breaking News
    • Formulary
    • Directories
      • Buyer's Guide
      • Contract Manufacturing / Private Label Directory
      • Corporate Profiles
      • Add Your Company
    • Raw Materials
      • Actives
      • Functional Ingredients
      • Pigments
      • Polymers
      • Preservatives
      • Surfactants
    • End-User
      • Air Care/Environmental Fragrance
      • AP/Deo
      • Color Cosmetics
      • Disinfectants
      • Fine Fragrance
      • Hair Care
      • Household Cleaning
      • I&I Marketplace
      • Laundry Care
      • Oral Care
      • OTC/Medicated
      • Packaging
      • Personal Cleansers
      • Skin Care
      • Sun Care
      • Testing
    • Packaging
      • Lab Equipment
      • Mixing
      • Packaging
      • Testing
    • Top Companies
      • International Top 30 Report
      • Top 50 Report
    • Online Exclusives
    • Experts Opinion
    • Slideshows
    • HappiTV
    • Videos
    • Podcasts
    • eBook
    • Infographics
    • Blog
    • Whitepapers
    • Surveys
      • R & D Salary Survey
      • Sales & Marketing Salary Survey
    • Job Banks
    • Events
      • Industry Events
      • Live from show Events
      • Webinars
    • About Us
      • About Us
      • Contact Us
      • Advertise With Us
      • Privacy Policy
      • Terms of Use
    Anti-aging & Cosmeceutical Corner

    Cosmeceutical Trends Worth Watching

    ...

    Related CONTENT
    • Warts & All
    • Yes Sweat!
    • Burt's Bees To Present Rosacea Data at AAD Meeting
    • Researchers Regrow Hair on Damaged Skin
    • An Urban Pollution SOLUTION FROM Mibelle Biochemistry
    Navin M. Geria, AyurDerm Technologies, LLC03.04.19
    According to dermatologists Zoe Draelos, MD and Ranella Hirsch, MD, seven of the most popular cosmeceutical categories are: moisturizers, retinoids, exfoliants, anti-inflammatories, antioxidants, barrier repair and stem cells. In Q1 2018, US prestige beauty product sales rose 9% to $4.2 billion. The wellness trend has a growing influence with consumers who want to improve their body (skin) and mind. The interplay of physical, mental and nutritional factors contributes to a healthier-looking appearance. This column reviews the cosmeceutical categories that are driving gains.

    Moisturizers
    Whether in cream, lotion or serum format, moisturizers are designed to increase the hydration of skin. Basically there are three types of ingredients in moisturizers; occlusive, humectant and emollient. Occlusive moisturizers prevent evaporation or transepidermal water loss from the skin by forming a barrier with an emollient ingredient such as mineral oil, beeswax, paraffin, silicones, petrolatum, lanolin, squalane, shea butter or oil like almond or jojoba.

    Humectant moisturizers attract water so it can remain on skin surface; water may be pulled from the deeper layers of the skin or from the environment. Humectants include hyaluronic acid, alpha hydroxy acid, sorbitol, glycerin, propylene glycol, urea and sodium lactate. Emollient moisturizers fill in the spaces between skin cells to smooth them out. Ingredients such as lanolin, sodium hyaluronate, glycerine and glyceryl stearate can have occlusive and humectant properties.

    Moisturizers treat dry skin by bringing moisture to it. Treat dry skin or wrinkled skin if you want it to look smoother. But if you overuse a moisturizer, pores get clogged and black heads may develop and trapped dead skin cells may dull skin.

    Emollients are lubricating ingredients that are critical for making dry skin not feel dry. Emollients include plant oils, mineral oil, shea butter, cocoa butter, petrolatum and cholesterol, as well as animal oils such as emu, mink and lanolin. Ingredients like triglycerides, palmitates and myristates impart an elegant texture and feel. 

    Retinoids
    Retinoids or tretinoin are vitamin A derivatives. They stimulate collagen production, reduce wrinkles and other signs of aging such as brown spots and pore size. They can cause irritation in the form of redness and flakiness. Retinoids make you extremely susceptible to sunburn, therefore daily sunscreen use is an absolute must. Retinoids come in various formulations and strengths depending on skin type.

    Exfoliants range from very abrasive, potentially irritating materials such as apricot or walnut kernels and pumice, to gentler exfoliants like jojoba beads, nylon puffs, bath salts and synthetic microbeads. Fine granular particles of these gently scratch the skin surface to remove dead cells. Chemical exfoliants may be broadly divided into five categories: AHA, BHA, enzymes, acne actives and retinoids. AHAs, including citric, glycolic, malic, tartaric and lactic acids, increase skin cell turnover by dissolving the protein bond between cells. In ultrasound, skin exfoliation is called cevitation, where water or gel molecules are driven by the low frequency sound waves to spin rapidly over the skin. This removes dead skin cells safely without inflammation. These ultrasound machines are available for at-home use and they do improve the skin appearance.

    Anti-Inflammatories
    Anti-inflammatories treat active redness and calm skin to prevent flushing and skin sensitivity. Foods that tame inflammation include kale, spinach, brussels sprouts, dark leafy vegetables, salmon, flaxseeds, legumes, turmeric and fruits such as blueberries and strawberries. When a cell is irritated it releases inflammatory substances such as cytokine and histamine. They alert the immune system of the irritation. The immune system responds by rushing leukocytes to the site of irritation. This site becomes red colored, because leukocytes get mixed with red blood cells.

    Leukocytes also release cytokine which signals cells to produce protease. This enzyme breaks down collagen, elastin and hyaluronic acid responsible for skin firmness, elasticity and moisture content, respectively. The outer portion of the cell plasma membrane is attacked by sunlight-induced free radicals resulting in the release of fatty acid, called arachidonic acid, which is readily transformed into a powerful inflammation-causing chemical. These free radicals also stimulate the production of a compound in cells, called nuclear factor kappa B (NFKB), which turns on production of harmful compounds influencing micro-scarring, which leads to wrinkles. Sunlight also activates another messenger in the cell, AP-1, which signals the cell to produce enzymes to breakdown collagen, eventually resulting in aging skin. Many of these reactions occur simultaneously, producing a slow gradual deterioration of the skin. There are more than 50 different tropical products with powerful anti-inflammatory activity.

    Perricone the Pioneer
    Many of these topical anti-inflammatory ingredients were patented by Nicholas Perricone, MD in the early 1990s. Topical vitamin E is also an anti-inflammatory antioxidant. The leaves of chamomile plant have well-established anecdotal reputation for soothing, anti-inflammatory properties. Other botanicals including aloe, licorice, kukui nut, shea butter and avocado oil have been studied for their anti-inflammatory properties with proven benefits.

    Antioxidants provide many benefits. They neutralize free radicals that occur naturally on the skin, and can reduce sun damage and skin aging. Some of the antioxidants include β-carotene, plant extract of gingko biloba, centella asiatica, ginseng, rosemary, juniper, horse chestnut, phytic acid and iron chelators. Other popular ones are vitamins C, D, and E; alpha lipoic acid; co-enzyme Q10; and green tea.

    Vitamin E is considered an antioxidant superstar. It is lipid soluble and available in eight forms. Several studies support green tea’s potent antioxidant and anti-carcinogenic properties. Excellent botanical sources of antioxidants include berries, pomegranate, ginger, grapes, orange, plum, pineapple, lemon, dates, kiwi and grapefruit; as well as legumes like broad beans, pinto beans, soybeans, nuts and seeds, apricots and prunes. Antioxidant-rich vegetables include kale, chili pepper, red cabbage, bell peppers, parsley, artichoke, brussels sprouts and spinach; cereals  such as barley millet and oats; and finally, roots and tubers such as carrots and red beets. Grapeseed extract, pycnogenol and green tea extract all contain polyphenols, which are not only powerful antioxidants, but are complimentary in enhancing the effects of other antioxidants.

    Barrier Repair
    A healthy barrier function prevents water loss and protects against irritants, insults and bacterial infection. Factors that promote healthy barrier include inter-cellular lipids, natural moisturizing factor (NMF) and number of stratum corneum layers.  Promoting barrier repair improves dryness, roughness, redness, irritation, acne, rosacea, facial flushing, fine lines and uneven skin tone.

    Ceramides are the major component of the skin surface. They protect against moisture loss to keep skin youthful and nourished from within. They play an important part in cellular signaling such as regulatory differentiation, proliferation and programmed cell death. The ceramides are expensive and are usually found in high-end cosmetics. Natural ceramides are extremely unstable and very costly to obtain, so synthetic grades are used. Synthetic ceramides do not penetrate the skin as well as natural ones; a problem that can be resolved if they are encapsulated in liposomes. There is extensive medical evidence supporting their potential for promoting the development of healthy skin cells. Other beneficial barrier protective ingredients include ginkgo biloba, green tea, black tea, grape seed extract, licorice, coenzyme Q10, vitamin C, pycnogenol, silymarin, quercetin, allantoin, chamomile, aloe vera and bisabolol. They reduce UV-induced inflammation, and are very beneficial to consumers with sensitive skin.

    According to Shaheen Majeed of Sabinsa Corporation, skin often becomes sensitive when the natural barrier function is impaired, when nerve endings in the top layers of the skin become extra sensitive, or when it becomes intolerant to various triggers. The results can mean redness and inflammation and as a consequence, a need for an ingredient that can counteract it. Frequent use of detergents or soaps is a major cause of irritation. Recent studies have shown that cigarette smoke disrupts the barrier of the skin in a manner comparable to UV radiation. As a consequence of lipid depletion, the transepidermal water loss (TEWL) is increased. This results in lower water holding capacity. Typical ingredients that are helpful for barrier repair and protection are: ceramides, long chain fatty acids, sterols, glycerin, dimethicone and cyclomethicone. These agents help with dryness and restoration of the skin barrier and provide help to ameliorate dry skin and eczema.

    Stem Cells 
    The regenerative property of plant stem cells has captured the imagination of cosmetic researchers. Stem cells are becoming a common ingredient in skin products. It is important for researchers to know that stem cells, and cells in general, are notoriously difficult to keep alive in a laboratory, let alone in a skin care formulation. Nearly all cosmetic products that are promoted for their stem cell content actually contain stem cell extracts—not live stem cells.

    Many dermatologists often use stem cell-conditioned media with growth factors, to regenerate the skin. Newer studies suggest that bone marrow stem cells are preferable as they are the ones that normally control healing. According to dermatologists, Leslie Bowmann, MD and Richard Hope, MD, plant-based stem cells are too large to penetrate the skin. They cannot live in the cream while it stays on the shelf for months or even years. These cells are dead basically and have no activity. Dr. Hope, however, believes human stem cells will likely have an impact on skin rejuvenation and hair restoration. The science is just beginning to understand human stem cell biology and finding ways to exploit this knowledge to reverse signs of aging. This research comes when consumers crave immediate product benefits, and seek authoritative advice and endorsements on their selected brands. It is hoped that these seven cosmeceutical categories and their mechanism of action will enable formulators match the right brand to the specific skin need.


    Navin M. Geria
    Chief Scientific Officer
    AyurDerm Technologies, LLC
    navin@AyurDerm.com

    Navin Geria, former Pfizer Research Fellow is a cosmetic and pharmaceutical product development chemist and the chief scientific officer of AyurDerm Technologies LLC, which provides Ayurvedic, natural and cosmeceutical custom formulation development and consulting services to the spa-wellness-dermatology industries. He has launched dozens of cosmeceutical and ayurvedic anti-aging products. Geria has more than 30 years of experience in the personal care industry and was previously with Clairol, Warner-Lambert, Schick-Energizer, Bristol-Myers and Spa Dermaceuticals. He has nearly 20 US patents and has been published extensively. Geria edited the “Handbook of Skin-Aging Theories for Cosmetic Formulation Development” focus book published in April 2016 by Harry’s Cosmeticology. He is a speaker, moderator and chairman at cosmetic industry events.
    Related Searches
    • growth
    • cosmetic
    • media
    • extract
    Related Knowledge Center
    • Skin Care
    • Actives
    Suggested For You
    Warts & All Warts & All
    Yes Sweat! Yes Sweat!
    Burt Burt's Bees To Present Rosacea Data at AAD Meeting
    Researchers Regrow Hair on Damaged Skin Researchers Regrow Hair on Damaged Skin
    An Urban Pollution SOLUTION FROM Mibelle Biochemistry An Urban Pollution SOLUTION FROM Mibelle Biochemistry
    The Microbiome’s Impact On Skin Care Formulations The Microbiome’s Impact On Skin Care Formulations
    Sabinsa Cosmetics, a division of Sabinsa Corporation Sabinsa Cosmetics, a division of Sabinsa Corporation
    Researchers Regrow Hair Strands on Damaged Skin Researchers Regrow Hair Strands on Damaged Skin
    New Thoughts on Aging New Thoughts on Aging
    Thick to Thin, the Impact of Menopause on Skin Thick to Thin, the Impact of Menopause on Skin
    Top Botanicals for Treating Problem Skin Top Botanicals for Treating Problem Skin
    Cannabidiol Gets High Marks for Cosmetics Formulas Cannabidiol Gets High Marks for Cosmetics Formulas
    A Fresh Take on Cleansing A Fresh Take on Cleansing
    A Novel AO for Skin Care? A Novel AO for Skin Care?

    Related Anti-aging & Cosmeceutical Corner

    • Actives | Skin Care
      Pandemic-Related Stress & Its Impact on Skin

      Pandemic-Related Stress & Its Impact on Skin

      ...
      Navin Geria, Ayurderm Technologies, LLC 03.02.21

    • Skin Care
      Breakthrough Oxygen Therapy Reverses the Aging Process

      Breakthrough Oxygen Therapy Reverses the Aging Process

      ...
      Navin Geria, Ayurderm Technologies, LLC 01.06.21

    • Actives | Skin Care
      Blue Light Defenses & Protective Skin Care

      Blue Light Defenses & Protective Skin Care

      ...
      Navin M. Geria, AyurDerm Technologies, LLC 11.05.20


    • Color Cosmetics | Functional Ingredients | Hair Care | Skin Care

      A Growing Glut of Gluten-Free

      Beauty launches are most prominent in the skin care, color cosmetics and hair care categories.
      Navin M. Geria, Chief Scientific Officer AyurDerm Technologies, LLC 09.03.20

    • Functional Ingredients | Skin Care
      The Beauty Benefits of Anti-Aging Facial Oils

      The Beauty Benefits of Anti-Aging Facial Oils

      ...
      Navin M. Geria, AyurDerm Technologies, LLC 01.03.20

    • Actives | Functional Ingredients | OTC/Medicated | Skin Care

      Understanding the Barrier & Keeping It Healthy

      ...
      Navin M. Geria, Chief Scientific Officer AyurDerm Technologies, LLC 11.01.19


    • Actives | Skin Care
      Delivering Wellness Via a Variety of Channels

      Delivering Wellness Via a Variety of Channels

      ...
      Navin M. Geria, Chief Scientific Officer AyurDerm Technologies, LLC 09.02.19

    • Functional Ingredients | Skin Care

      If It Works for Tigers It’ll Work for You!

      ...
      Navin M. Geria, Chief Scientific Officer AyurDerm Technologies, LLC 07.01.19

    • Actives | Functional Ingredients | Skin Care

      Several Very Big Beauty Benefits Are Derived from Micronutrients

      ...
      Navin M. Geria, AyurDerm Technologies, LLC 09.03.18


    • Actives | Functional Ingredients | Skin Care

      Health Benefits of MitoQ Antioxidant Technology

      ...
      Navin M. Geria, Chief Scientific Officer AyurDerm Technologies, LLC 07.02.18

    • Actives | Skin Care

      Formulation and Efficacy of Anti-Aging Moisturizers

      ...
      Navin M. Geria, Chief Scientific Officer AyurDerm Technologies, LLC 05.01.18

    • Actives | Skin Care

      Understanding How Collagen Helps Healthy Looking Skin

      ...
      Navin M. Geria, Chief Scientific Officer AyurDerm Technologies, LLC 01.04.18


    • Actives | Skin Care

      Questions Arise Over Plant Stem Cells

      ...
      Navin M. Geria, AyurDerm Technologies, LLC 09.01.17

    • Actives | Skin Care
      Probiotics Play a Key Role In Maintaining Skin Health

      Probiotics Play a Key Role In Maintaining Skin Health

      An inside out approach to skin care.
      Navin M. Geria, AyurDerm Technologies, LLC 07.03.17

    • Functional Ingredients | Skin Care

      Anti-Aging and Ayurveda are part of well-being

      ...
      Navin M. Geria, AyurDerm Technologies, LLC 05.01.17

    Trending
    • BASF Achieves Palm Oil Commitment For 2020
    • When The FTC Comes Calling...
    • Coty Partners With LanzaTech To Reduce Its Environmental Impact
    • Formulating Liquid Laundry Detergents
    • China To End Animal Testing For Imported 'Ordinary' Cosmetics
    Breaking News
    • Dr. Sheffield’s Adds New Toothpaste Flavors
    • First Two Hand Sanitizers Are Certified by Green Seal
    • Elizabeth Arden Taps Supermodel and Actress Sui He
    • Beauty and The Burrito Bowl
    • Croda Places Platinum by EcoVadis for Sustainability Efforts
    View Breaking News >
    CURRENT ISSUE

    March 2021

    • ACI Is Front & Center During the Pandemic
    • Rise… Then Shine
    • Making Up for Lost Time
    • All’s Well with Wellness
    • View More >

    Cookies help us to provide you with an excellent service. By using our website, you declare yourself in agreement with our use of cookies.
    You can obtain detailed information about the use of cookies on our website by clicking on "More information”.

    • About Us
    • Privacy Policy
    • Terms And Conditions
    • Contact Us

    follow us

    Subscribe
    Nutraceuticals World

    Latest Breaking News From Nutraceuticals World

    Thymoquinone Inhibits Viral Infection in In Vitro Settings, New Study Finds
    IFT Transitions 2021 Annual Event to Digital Experience
    NY Federal Judge Enters Permanent Injunction Against Dietary Supplement Manufacturer
    Coatings World

    Latest Breaking News From Coatings World

    Sherwin-Williams Announces Resignation of President and COO
    Ashland Completes Expansion and Relocation of Viatel Bioresorbable Polymers Manufacturing Facility
    Evonik Receives Sustainability Award from EcVadis
    Medical Product Outsourcing

    Latest Breaking News From Medical Product Outsourcing

    Cretex CFO Announces Retirement
    New AI-Based Tool Developed for Coronary Artery Analysis, Intervention Planning
    First Reported Use of Pulse Biosciences' CellFX System
    Contract Pharma

    Latest Breaking News From Contract Pharma

    AGC Biologics Expands Cell and Gene Facility in Italy
    Celonic to Boost Cell & Gene Therapy Production
    Pharmaron Acquires Biomanufacturing Site in the UK from AbbVie
    Beauty Packaging

    Latest Breaking News From Beauty Packaging

    Ulta Beauty Opens in Herald Square
    Elizabeth Arden Taps Sui He as Global Brand Ambassador
    Natura &Co Outperforms the Global Market in Q4 2020
    Happi

    Latest Breaking News From Happi

    Dr. Sheffield’s Adds New Toothpaste Flavors
    First Two Hand Sanitizers Are Certified by Green Seal
    Elizabeth Arden Taps Supermodel and Actress Sui He
    Ink World

    Latest Breaking News From Ink World

    Massilly North America Adds Koenig & Bauer MetalStar 3 Metal Decorating Press
    Hydrocarbon Solvents Market to Surpass $8.1 Billion by 2030
    Access Direct Mail Doubles Revenue with SCREEN's Truepress Jet520HD
    Label & Narrow Web

    Latest Breaking News From Label & Narrow Web

    Arjobex America welcomes Maggie Naberezny to sales team
    Henkel publishes 30th Sustainability Report
    Avery Dennison Smartrac launches new Circus Pro inlays
    Nonwovens Industry

    Latest Breaking News From Nonwovens Industry

    FPInnovations Develops Biodegradable Mask
    Sani Professional Sanitizing and Disinfecting Products Approved by EPA
    Autefa Solutions Offers Fully Automated Line for Protective Mask Production
    Orthopedic Design & Technology

    Latest Breaking News From Orthopedic Design & Technology

    Colfax Decides to Divide Its Businesses
    Stryker Corp.'s 2020 Sales Slip 3.6 Percent
    Bioventus Appoints Managing Director, China and Asia Pacific
    Printed Electronics Now

    Latest Breaking News From Printed Electronics Now

    Comercial Kywi Improves Customer Service, Front-Store Operations with Zebra Mobile Solution
    Global Printed Circuit Board Market Projected to Reach $69.32 Billion by 2027
    Global Smart Glass Market to Register 6.8% CAGR Between 2021-28: Grand View Research

    Copyright © 2021 Rodman Media. All rights reserved. Use of this constitutes acceptance of our privacy policy The material on this site may not be reproduced, distributed, transmitted, or otherwise used, except with the prior written permission of Rodman Media.

    AD BLOCKER DETECTED

    Our website is made possible by displaying online advertisements to our visitors.
    Please consider supporting us by disabling your ad blocker.


    FREE SUBSCRIPTION Already a subscriber? Login