Ossining, NY is within 50 miles of the Atlantic Ocean coastline, but when Ashland researchers seek skin care actives derived from Giant Kelp, they head in the opposite direction—about 3,000 miles west to southern California where it grows in dense, protected forests. Giant Kelp (Macrocystis spp.) is the world’s largest species of marine algae, and is the source for Ashland’s SeaSteam biofunctional, a skin care active with unique properties.

The company recently invited industry reporters to tour its facility in Ossining and learn more about this skin care active, Giant Kelp and the Zeta Fraction technology that makes it possible to capture the benefits of kelp and other natural materials without the use of solvents. Within one hour of harvesting, a specially designed mobile gently separates plants or algae into various bioactive components.

Ashland executives are quick to point out that their Zeta Fraction technology is a proprietary, sustainable process to capture the essence of fresh and living plants. Using specially designed equipment, broad frequencies of electromagnetic waves are finely tuned to precisely impact colloidal properties of plants’ intracellular components to initiate their targeted separation. The new SeaStem serum fraction is rich in minerals, sugars and phlorotannin which are said to provide skin nutrition, remineralization and antioxidant properties. SeaStem is the second product developed using Zeta Fraction technology. In 2017, Ashland rolled out Harmoniance biofunctional, a botanical active derived from Sacred Lotus. Both materials are Cosmos approved.

Skin-Caring Benefits
Giant kelp is the fastest growing organism on earth and, as such, is an excellent candidate for cosmetics industry use. The kelp is sustainably harvested and Ashland uses its proprietary Zeta Fraction technology to capture the benefits of the plant. Ashland researchers harvest the top portion of the plant, about 1.2 meters, with a cutting implement that ensures the kelp will continue growing. The process, which Ashland researchers liken to a lawnmower, cannot cut the sporophylls that generate spores for the next generation or the meristems that produce fronds.

Once harvested, the fronds are brought to Ashland’s unique mobile laboratory, where they are properly stored and shipped to Ossining to undergo the Zeta Fraction process, a patented procedure that ensures the active within the plant are maintained throughout the manufacturing process.

According to Ashland executives, SeaStem biofunctional  supports skin and protects it against the negative effects of environmental pollutants.

“Our skin in day-to-day life is bombarded from pollution and other stress factors. SeaStem, with inspiration from the ocean, allows Ashland to help protect our skin’s stem cells from this pollution, creating a defense that aids with hydration and supports the renewal of our skin barrier, which helps us develop age-defying formulations,” explained Joel Mantelin, VP-biofunctionals business development, Ashland.

SeaStem is said to:

• Support the epidermal stem cells to help optimize the skin’s natural ability to self-renew;
• Shelter skin from the harmful effects of exposure to certain types of indoor and outdoor pollution; and
• Encourage remineralization of the skin with essential nutrients for hydration and barrier renewal.

These benefits are derived from several of the kelp’s components include polysaccharides (alginates), primary carotenoids (fucoxanthin), sulfated polysaccharides (fucoidan and laminarin) and polyphenols, which have skin-caring benefits related to skin inflammation, immune functions and detoxification. Furthermore, researchers have shown that extracts from macro algae that is rich in fucoidans and alginates such as Macrocysits pyrifera improved the maintenance of the stem cell niche. According to Ashland, the stem cell niche is a local tissue microenvironment consisting of signaling pathways, including Sox9, K15 and p63, that is critical to ensure lifelong skin homeostasis and to protect stem from premature exhaustion. By maintaining a balance between stem cell quiescence and differentiation, cells are able to exert better control over the aging process and self-renewal, according to Ashland.

The End Results
In skin care formulas that contain 0.5% and 1%, SeaStem was shown to help maintain keratin 15 level in skin that was exposed to defined levels of ultra fine particles (UFP). Sox9 expression increased after 0.01% SeaStem application, following cell exposure to UFP pollution stress. Ashland researchers found that p63 expression was maintained during UFP exposure-induced stress conditions after treatment with SeaStem.

In vitro test results showed that cells treated with SeaStem show a significant reduction in mitochondrial reactive oxygen species, compared to untreated cells that were stressed by UFP pollutants from diesel exhaust. In fact, according to Ashland, SeaStem helps eliminate 50% more pollution nanoparticles for enhanced skin renewal effectiveness. Researchers maintain that the clearing of pollution particles at the surface of skin was more effective when cells were treated with 0.01% SeaStem.

Furthermore, loricrin expression was maintained when reconstructed human epidermis was pretreated with SeaStem and the stressed by exposure to Diesel UFP pollutants. Hyaluronic acid expression was enhanced 16% and 42% in the dermis and epidermis after treatment with SeaStem at 0.5% and 1.0%, respectively. Finally, skin hydration jumped nearly 57% after seven days of application of SeaStem at 1.0%.

With these kinds of results, Ashland recommends that SeaStem has applications in:

• Skin care concepts and products to protect skin’s stem cells from pollution;
• Cosmetic lines and products with sea and marine concepts;
• Daily defense skin care cosmetics protecting against pollution and other stressors;
• Skin care products for hydration and skin barrier renewal;
• Formulations to optimize skin’s natural renewal capabilities; and
• Age-defying formulations.

Ashland has developed several formulas to showcase the benefits of SeaStem, including Sea-Sea cream protection daywear SPF 25, a light coverage formula that makes skin feel and look smoother with a flawless finish; Mermaid regenerating night gel cream, a cost-effective, cold process hydrogel that applies easily and absorbs into skin for quick moisture replenishment; and Ecume de mer rescue essence, a turquoise mousse that mimics sea foam and leaves skin refreshed and soft.

Ashland executives are optimistic that their Zeta Fraction technology will continue to expand as the company creates a catalog of actives for the global cosmetics industry.