Not so In-Cosmetics Global. The show has dominated the international beauty calendar for more than a quarter of century, and shows no signs of succumbing to tradeshow fatigue. This year’s show did not disappoint, with more than 12,000 attendees flocking to Porte de Versailles in Paris—an increase of nearly 28% over the 2018 edition in Amsterdam.
“It was fantastic to return to Paris this year and to welcome so many industry visitors,” said Exhibition Manager Roziani Zulkifli, in a statement. “The cosmetics industry is going through a period of unprecedented change as numerous factors influence how it develops—from embracing diversity in all its forms, to implementing sustainable practices and understanding consumer demand for ever-more effective products. In-Cosmetics Global 2019 had it all and we’re delighted with the response we’ve received this year from show exhibitors and visitors alike.”
Demand for beauty products continues to grow despite economic instability. The global cosmetics market is expected to garner $429.8 billion by 2022, registering a CAGR of 4.3% during the forecast period of 2016-2022, according to Allied Market Research. Mintel lists the key trends driving growth as personalization, digital, naturals, and marketing campaigns that draw on a brand’s “personality.” Many of these trends were clearly evident on the In-Cosmetics Global show floor and conference rooms.
In-Cosmetics Global moves on to Barcelona next year, with earlier show dates of March 31-April 2, 2020. Looking even further ahead, sources say In-Cosmetics Global 2021 will take place in Milan and return to London for 2022—interesting choices considering that how well-received the show is in Paris, where attendance records seem to be set every year, and organizers call the City of Lights its “spiritual home.”
Nuxe Group Wins Formulation Challenge
It may not rise to the level of a closed cage match, but four teams of formulators were thrown into a makeshift laboratory on the In-Cosmetics Global show floor to battle it out in the annual Formulation Challenge. Not long after the last propeller mixer stopped turning, Nuxe Group, a French based manufacturer of natural skin care products, was crowned the winner. The challenge, sponsored by Lonza, pitted some of the industry’s best formulators and scientists against each other in a 90-minute race to create a cosmetics or personal care product from a box of mystery ingredients. The aim this year, set by In-Cosmetics Global Technical Advisor Lorna Radford, was to create a sleeping product with a perfect formulation that could be recreated, as well as a believable and shelf-ready marketing story.
“The formulation was very clearly put together and considered all aspects, such as mixing speed, temperatures and pH for preservative,” observed Radford.
Nuxe Group competed against Alpol Cosmetique, Hormeta and defending champion Natur’Alps. Nuxe Group, purveyor of skin care, body care and anti-aging beauty, earned the top prize with a trio of scalp and hair night treatments. The set of Active Scalp Night Treatments were created for normal, greasy and dry scalps within the millennial demographic.
“It is really exciting to win and was all down to great teamwork,” said Alexandra Mignot, formulation project leader, Nuxe Group. “The last 30 minutes were a little stressful as we raced to complete our formulations and we can’t wait to take our trophy back to our company!”
Challenge judge Andrew McDougall (global hair care analyst, Mintel), who assessed the marketing angle, noted that he and fellow judges were very impressed with the formulations.
“The marketing stories of all entries were excellent, but Nuxe Group just edged it with a great product,” he explained.
“The formulation was very clearly put together and considered all aspects, such as mixing speed, temperatures and pH for preservative,” said Radford.
McDougall added, “We were very impressed with the formulations and choosing a winner was a tough call.”
Hormeta came in as runner up with a Y.O.G.A Dreaming Therapy Elixir skin care treatment, which was designed to balance sleep and happiness.
“The product tied into the industry theme of health and wellbeing, with actives for decreasing cell stress and barrier reinforcement. The team produced a clear formulation with a method that should easily scale up to production,” said Radford.
Global Beauty Day
The Formulation Challenge is a staple at In-Cosmetics, but organizers continue to launch programs to keep the show from becoming stale. New for 2019 was Global Beauty Day, which took place April 3. It aims to celebrate inclusivity and diversity in the beauty industry as changing consumer demands force R&D professionals and manufacturers to think outside the box, according to In-Cosmetics organizers. The show hosted three special roundtable discussions that brought together industry professionals for open discussions on lifestyle choices, such as vegan, halal, all-natural and environmentally-friendly; LGBTQ+ identity, exploring beyond the gender boundaries; and skin types and colors. Each conversation explored the way consumer choices are influencing the development of cosmetic products from the ingredients used all the way through to the marketing stories told.
A diverse mix of industry experts joined forces to discuss these impacting factors, including Jessica Blackler, founder and managing director of unisex beauty brand Jecca Blac; sustainable brand Beauty Kitchen; Rob Forgione and Denis Kovalyov, co-founders of My.Haircare, a cruelty-free, vegan hair care range; and Chantal Amalric, beauty care strategic marketing manager at Seppic – Air Liquide Healthcare Specialty Ingredients.
Following the success of Global Beauty Day, it will return on the second day of the show every year, all to get under the skin of the topical issues of the moment with the industry’s leading, forward-thinking players, according to the organizers of In-Cosmetics Global.
Also on April 3, the Brazilian Association of the Cosmetic, Toiletry and Fragrance Industry (ABIHPEC) hosted a meeting in partnership with the Brazilian Embassy for 50 companies from around the world. The event shone a light on the most relevant aspects of Brazil’s law on access to biodiversity.
Walking the Indie Trail
Independent beauty companies are dominating the conversation within the global cosmetics industry. This year, In-Cosmetics Global put the spotlight firmly on the pioneering indie brands that have become increasingly influential, with sales surging in popularity and importance. To help indie developers connect with suppliers willing to provide smaller ingredient quantities to suit production up to 100kg, this years, In-Cosmetics organized and produced the Indie Trail Guide. The concept helped smaller brands and start-ups better navigate the show to forge important connections with relevant exhibitors.
“We were incredibly busy—non-stop,” said Mireia Perez Bauza, communications manager at Vytrus Biotech. “The Indie Trail is a brilliant concept and brought people to us to find out more.”
Aimed specifically at R&D professionals and led by leading technical consultant and cosmetic chemist Rouah Al-Wakeel, the R&D Tours took in major show features such as the Innovation Zone and Sensory Bar. The tours were centered around three specific topics: Protection, which was sponsored by IMCD; Healthy Aging, which was sponsored by Mibelle Biochemistry Group; and Preservation, which was sponsored by Symrise. Each tour introduced formulators to select exhibitor stands relevant to the tour topic.
More to See
Tried-and-true features continue to draw a crowd at In-Cosmetics Global. For example, the Innovation Zone is one of the most popular and vibrant areas of the show. Ashland sponsored this interactive area, which gave exclusive insight into the latest product developments and offered the opportunity, via the formulation displays, to put products through their paces to explain their key properties and efficacy to visitors. Additionally, the beauty and personal care team from Mintel hosted live demonstrations, offering visitors the chance to interact and test innovative finished products.
With sustainability ranking so highly in consumer thinking, and likewise feeding into R&D, the Sustainability Corner, sponsored by Cargill, featured 20 pods containing sustainable ingredients, or supply chain projects, that have had a positive effect on the environment. The interactive space focused on the industry’s progress on this important issue and offered attendees the chance to understand how businesses are changing their procedures to reduce their environmental impact, hear expert insights from leading brands and debate major issues surrounding the topic.
“Sustainability is the most important part of the cosmetics industry and so I was a bigfan of the Sustainability Corner,” said Toshihiko Shimoda, technology scout, R&D, Beiresdorf. “I liked the layout and concept as a whole. It is great that In-Cosmetics is addressing the issue of sustainability so clearly.”
New formulations were put through their paces, and visitors were able to experience the latest eye, skin, nail and lip formulations at the Make-Up Bar, which was sponsored by BASF. Designed to help attendees discover the latest solutions, formulations and vibrant colors all in one place, exhibitors showcased how the beauty industry continues to create new, functional ingredients and technologies.
More info: www.in-cosmetics.com