“Consumers crave that bold saturated, pigment that’s promised in the marketing for that product,” she told Happi. “Most shoppers are searching for the latest products right on their phones now through social media. Everyone has their favorite makeup artist influencer they follow and because these influencers are being sent product from all the top cosmetic companies they know they’re seeing the latest and greatest products in real time. You can watch them unbox, swatch and then create a look using products before you decide to purchase anything.”
According to Faller, a bold pop of color on eyes is a huge trend right now because it’s all over the runway and red carpet events. Statement lips are another fun trend when paired with a minimalist look on the rest of the face, she added.
Yet, even with the color crave, there’s been a significant slowdown in prestige makeup sales. According to The NPD Group, in the 12 months ending May 2019, US prestige makeup sales declined 4% to $7.9 billion.
“Despite the decline, there remain pockets of growth and opportunity within the color cosmetics category, specifically around products that create a more natural ‘born with it’ look,” explained Larissa Jensen, executive director and beauty industry analyst, The NPD Group.
Tinted moisturizer sales increased 11% to $126 million, concealer grew 5% to $474 million, lip gloss grew 1% to $191 million and setting sprays rose a whopping 31% to $246 million.
“While some challenges may lie ahead, 2019 remains an exciting time for the beauty industry. Listening to the consumer, maintaining a pulse on category trends, being open to change and adjusting in real time is what will drive success in today’s fast-paced environment,” Jensen told Happi in an interview.
Meanwhile, in the mass market, basic facial cosmetics sales fell 4.2% to $2.1 billion with some mixed performances within key segments, according to data from Information Resources Inc. (IRI) for total US multi-outlet (supermarkets, drugstores, mass market retailers, military commissaries and select club and dollar retail chains) for the 52 weeks ended May 19, 2019 (see chart, previous page).
“There are definitely some shifts here in the recent years of smaller indie beauty brands taking a piece of the cosmetics industry pie,” observed Yvonne MacInnis, pro makeup artist and beauty expert for The Makeup Show, New York. “Trend comes into play here with American brands being able to turn products around in very short time frames. These are easily accessed online and are fast buys in places like Ulta and Riley Rose.”
But, these newer brands often lack the product quality that more luxe brands offer—yes, we’re thinking about you, Jaclyn! According to Helen Phillips of Sephora Collection, this quality may still be the most important aspect to a more discerning consumer, who still shops at Sephora or cosmetics departments in store or online. The LA-based expert told Happi, “Right now, we are seeing a lot of superfood ingredients being used in color cosmetics – ingredients like oils derived from sunflower, chia, and flax seeds, as well as mushrooms, turmeric, coconut and avocado. I tend to like using ingredients that are simple and have a purpose.”
Glossy lips are huge right now, especially in bright and natural pink tones, which is a fresh departure from the long-wear mattes that ruled last season. According to Phillips, “What I love about this trend is that there is a level of glossy for everyone.”
For example, Stila’s new Beauty Boss Lip Gloss offers 12 high-shine shades with a next generation, light-refracting formula with iridescent pearls to create intense shine and amplified dimension. Hyaluronic filling spheres and luminous oils add natural-looking shine with a fig vanilla scent.
L’Absolu Mademoiselle Shine is Lancôme’s leading seasonal launch and newest addition to its iconic L’Absolu franchise. This melting and highly hydrating formula made with Pro-Xylane, a Lancôme patented molecule that replenishes and moisturizes lips, while conditioning and comforting agents soften lips for up to eight hours. Additionally, lips are protected with the antioxidant vitamin E and rose oil to safeguard against environmental damage.
Shoppers can just pucker up and go this summer with six irresistibly shimmering lip glosses from Deck of Scarlet. Hi-Shine Lip Gloss delivers multi-dimensional, prismatic pigment that makes a statement in just one stroke, according to the indie beauty brand. The ultra-creamy formula glides on smooth. Or, they can go matte with Maybelline New York’s new SuperStay Ink Crayon. SuperStay Matte Ink Crayon is the latest addition to the SuperStay lip range, a fan-favorite for the longest wearing lips. The soft bullet lip crayon provides up to 8-hours of saturated, matte color made to last; no need for touch-ups. Formulated with innovative elastic ink technology, this lip color forms Maybelline’s thinnest layer of color yet for a weightless, comfortable feel, said the company. In fact, the SuperStay Ink Crayon made its debut on the red carpet at the Met Gala in New York City in May. Spokesmodel Josephine Skriver used it on both her eyes, face and lip for the ultimate statement look.
“We drew inspiration for the look from the rich colors of the appliqué flowers on Josephine’s gown. With the theme, we knew we could push the boundaries without distracting from the dress,” explained Maybelline makeup artist Grace Lee, in a statement.
Get ready to go Gaga over the latest cosmetic debut. Haus Laboratories is Lady Gaga’s new makeup company, and it is set to make history as the first major beauty brand to launch exclusively on Amazon. The initial launch includes lip gloss, lip color, and all-over colors, according to reports, in six shades. A kit with all three products is priced at $49, and lip gloss will be $16 each. The collection is slated for a September launch, but the first products rolled out for pre-order on July 15 for Amazon Prime Day.
Keep An Eye Out
Duo chrome is a major focus right now in eye cosmetics, observed MacInnis of The Makeup Show, also “anything holographic (Milk Makeup highlighters) and futuristic is coming in and neon is still really hot.
“For the fall we saw this on the runway and lots of deconstructed smoky eyes and really beautiful skin,” she added.
Many makeup brands are stepping up to the plate with advanced eyecolor formulas for Fall. NYX raises expectations with its new On the Rise Volume Liftscara. This ultra-pigmented formula catches and coats lashes in matte black color for quick-charge lift and volume in just a few strokes. Featuring an innovative applicator shape and an elastomer brush head, the part-hourglass, part-rounded brush delivers high drama, intense volume and serious elevation! In a clinical study, 95% of participants saw instant volume and 94% saw instant lift, said NYX.
Achieve the most dramatic eye look yet with Maybelline’s ColorTattoo 24 Hour Eyeshadow. The new formula delivers intense color payoff with enhanced blendability for a smoother, and more even application for 24-hour wear, said the company. It is available in 10 shades. Then create a sultry, smoky eye in seconds with the Line Express Eyeliner! This wood pencil liner glides on seamlessly with its super creamy formula and provides intense color payoff ensuring an all-day wear in all three shades. Tattoo Liner Liquid Ink creates an intense eye look, yet removes without a trace! The blacker than black long-lasting liner is fade, smudge- and sweat-resistant with a 36-hour wear formula.
Iconic Maybelline Colossal Mascara is back with a fresh new look and top-rated formula for big, bold lashes. The Colossal Mascara’s coveted, plumping formula is infused with twice the collagen to provide lashes with instant volume. Already available in five shades, Colossal Mascara is now available in new Colossal Platinum, which is formulated with sparkles for added drama and flair. Lashes have never been more glamorous! In other news, Maybelline Snapscara is now available in new Bold Brown. This mascara is the first wax-free formulation that is shaded with pure gel pigments for easy application and removal, according to the company.
L’Oréal Paris Voluminous Lash Paradise Mascara Glitter Topper coats each lash with gold glitter to make lashes sparkle. First, prime the lashes with Lash Paradise Primer. Then apply Lash Paradise Mascara. Finish with the Glitter Topper to add sparkle to the lashes.
Glamour is also big at Urban Decay. Its new Heavy Metal Glitter Gel is back with a whole new way to sparkle. Inspired by Urban Decay’s original glitter eye gel from the early 2000s, this new formula is super-concentrated, vibrant bling-in-a-tube for eyes, face and body. Colors range from Saturday Stardust, an iridescent pink glitter to Dreamland, a trippy iridescent orange-blue shift glitter. The hyper-reflective glitter is suspended in a non-sticky, water-based gel and glides on easily with a brush or finger. The formula dries quickly and stays put for up to nine hours. To remove, just add water.
Urban Decay Heavy Metal Glitter Eyeliner takes hard-to-handle glitter and makes it effortless to apply. With a lineup of eight shades made for maximum mixing and matching, Heavy Metal is water-based and buildable with super-fine glitter, with a quick dry-down that stays put for hours, according to the company.
Nomad Cosmetics, known for its globally inspired palettes, is transporting users to Harajuku, Tokyo. Nomad’s new summer palette features 10 creamy poppy pastel eyeshadows and five multi-chrome toppers, all infused with local camellia japonica oil.
Meanwhile, fans of 1980s video games can take a nostalgic stroll down memory lane with the new Limited-Edition Wet n Wild x Pac-Man Collection, where bright hues and iconic characters bring users back to those days spent in the arcade. The range includes eyeshadows, lipsticks, bronzers and more.
Building a Solid Foundation
Maybelline New York is attempting to improve the online foundation shopping experience with the launch of Foundation Finder, the first-ever web-based tool that utilizes facial recognition technology to find the perfect foundation shade via selfie without having to download an app. Foundation Finder uses adaptive algorithms and the latest advancements in Computer Vision Technology to detect and analyze details of the user’s skin tone. The tool pairs facial color tone with individual shade, coverage and finish preference to deliver foundation shade matches with precision. Finally, Foundation Finder will deliver a personalized shade recommendation in less than a minute.
Foundation Finder is available on Maybelline.com for use on mobile, tablet and desktop. Foundations that customers may be matched with include: Maybelline New York Fit Me! Dewy + Smooth Foundation, Maybelline New York Fit Me! Matte + Poreless Foundation, Maybelline New York Fit Me! Shine-Free + Balance Stick Foundation, Maybelline New York Super Stay Full Coverage Foundation, Maybelline New York Super Stay Multi-Use Foundation Stick, Maybelline New York Super Stay Better Skin Foundation and Maybelline New York Dream Satin Liquid Foundation.
This summer, Laura Mercier rolls out Glace Touch, a sheer, non-sticky gloss for eyes, cheeks and lips. This lightweight glossy formula provides sheer vibrant color and creates a natural flush of color with light catching pearls. It is infused with coconut and cucumber water to provide hydration and a cushion balm texture.
Lune + Aster’s RealGlow Skin Tint is billed as a multi-tasking skin base that provides customizable, buildable coverage and skin care benefits with apple fruit extract, featuring glycerin that helps to increase hydration levels in the skin, while vegan collagen helps improve moisture and gives the look of smooth, radiant skin. Designed for easy application, apply this gluten-free and vegan skin tint with your fingertips after moisturizer and or primer. Available at Bluemercury in 11 shades from light to dark.
Clé de Peau Beauté is adding to its range of Luminizing Face Enhancers. The newest hue, Shade 18, is inspired by the pearlescent beauty of the conch shell. This highlighting powder utilizes Illuminating Beads and Clé de Peau Beauté’s exclusive light diffusing technology to define and brighten the contours of the complexion. This new shade is a delicate balance of gentle, warm orange and sweet pink to impart healthy luminosity, while ultra-fine gold and silver bring all-over radiance, said the company.
Women know that the skin beneath their makeup must be nourished and protected in order to get optimal application results, which is the inspiration behind this collection. Healthy skin with a makeup formulation that provides full coverage that weightlessly sits on top of skin for a bright and flawless complexion. Clinique also recently rolled out the multi-tasking Cheek Pop On-The-Glow Trio palette that offers a highlighter, blush and a bronzer. The blush delivers vibrant yet natural-looking cheek color that looks virtually powderless. The bronzer creates a natural-looking radiance, blends and builds easily to your desired level of color. The highlighter creates a customized, lit-from-within glow.
CoverGirl’s TruBlend Undercover Concealer is a new vegan and lightweight full coverage concealer that instantly brightens and smooths out complexions. For a variety of skin hues, there are 30 shades available to ensure consumers find their perfect match. The formula is highly pigmented to create a full coverage finish.
A Bright Forecast
The global market for mineral cosmetics is projected to reach $2.92 billion by 2026, at a 4.7% CAGR, according to a report by Allied Market Research. A rise in health consciousness and a shift in consumer preferences are expected to propel market growth, the report says. Overall, colors and their precise formulation will be something to keep an eye on.
According to Faller of Mehron, multi-tasking cosmetics in jellies, foams and sprays are the future of color.
“Futuristic hues paired with these new formulas will definitely be seen in the new decade. High shine and shifting colors in not only eye products but lip, cheek and hair products are where 2020 is heading,” she told Happi.
According to the current analysis by Reports and Data, the global anti-acne makeup market is expected to grow 4% a year and reach $3.24 billion by the end of 2026. Gains come from consumers ages 15-25 who create sebum at a rapid rate.
“There seems to be an upsurge of ‘undone’ makeup for next season and beyond, sort of a counter culture to all the overly-edited Instagram makeup that has been happening,” noted MacInnis of The Makeup Show. For example, at the Jeremy Scott Moschino show for SS20 Resort, the makeup artist used a treatment of washed-out neon and messy black smudges of makeup and glitter to create fashion forward Halloween-inspired looks.
“One big trend this year is stepping away from ‘insta-glam’ and into, what I like to call, ‘fast-glam,’ which is all about wearable, colorful looks that are easy to apply,” said Phillips of Sephora Collection. “Another big trend I’ve seen is stepping away from the ‘mega glow’ and embracing all skin finishes. These come to show that people are taking beauty into their own hands and deciding what works for them—showing off their creativity and beauty in truly unique ways.”
Color Cosmetics New Ingredients
Here are new ingredients for makeup that have been introduced by suppliers during the past 12 months. For more information on any of the products listed, contact the supplier directly.
Aqualon EC N-200 PC ethylcellulose
Suggested Use Levels: 1-10%
Applications: Liquid lipstick, anhydrous formulations
Comments: Aqualon EC N-200 PC ethylcellulose is a film former and thickener that is dispersible in oil/organic solvents. In color cosmetics formulations, this film former imparts shine, improves wear and increases color brightness.
Antaron Sensory (Ganex Sensory) polymer
INCI: VP/acrylates/lauryl methacrylate copolymer
Suggested Use Levels: 0.5-1%
Applications: SPF foundations, skin care leave-on
Comments: Antaron Sensory polymer is a mesh film former with great water resistance and superior sensory feel. In higher SPF formulas, use of this ingredient results in a less greasy and oily feel.
Ultrathix P-100 polymer
INCI: Acrylic acid/VP crosspolymer
Suggested Use Levels: 0.4-0.5%
Applications: Brow filler, foundation, lipstick, mascara, skin care leave-on
Comments: Ultrathix P-100 polymer is a pigment-suspending thickener that enhances stability.
BASF Colors & Effects
Chione Electric Fuchsia SF90D
INCI: Synthetic fluorphlogopite, titanium dioxide (CI 77891), iron oxides (CI 77491), silica
Suggested Use Levels: Varies by application, up to 100%
Applications: All applications without restriction (lip/eye/face/body/hair /nail)
Comments: BASF Colors & Effects’ newest product, Chione Electric Fuchsia SF90D, is making a statement in the cosmetic and personal care market. It’s a metallic-like effect pigment with a bright, bold, intense pink/fuchsia shade. Made entirely with inorganic pigments, Chione Electric Fuchsia is carmine-free and represents a disruptive innovation advance in effect pigment technology. This product won a 2019 Beauty Industry Award in the category of Best Color Cosmetics Ingredient from CosmeticsDesign during the 2019 InCosmetics Global tradefair.
INCI: Isododecane, adipic acid/neopentyl glycol crosspolymer, lauryl dimethicone, hydrogenated polyisobutene
Suggested Use Levels: 5-20%
Applications: Makeup, skin care
Comments: Aurasphere A is an anhydrous complex developed from the technology behind Penstia Powder, dispersed in a moisturizing gel base. In addition to line blurring and wrinkle filling properties, this unique ingredient imparts long wearing properties, a novel sensory feel and a silicone cushion to your products without the use of cyclomethicone. Aurasphere A is easily emulsified and is compatible with organic esters and solvents.
INCI: Hydrogenated castor oil/sebacic acid copolymer
Suggested Use Levels: Foundation: up to 5%, Lipstick: 5-15%, Lipgloss: up to 70%, Anhydrous hot pour: 10-20%
Applications: Eye color, face color, lip color
Comments: This 100% naturally derived film-former and adhesive polymer provides multiple benefits for color cosmetic applications. It is able to provide long-wear to color cosmetic formulations and act as a natural alternative to petro-based color cosmetic ingredients.
INCI: Aqua (and) hydrolyzed keratin
Suggested Use Levels: 3%
Applications: Nail care & color
Comments: A unique hydrolyzed keratin with an unusually high cystine content, ideal for use in hand and nail care formulations. Created using a proprietary manufacturing process that keeps cystine in its active S-SO3 form, ProSina has the ability increase the strength and cohesion of the nail plate and moisturize hands.
INCI: Tri(polyglyceryl-3/lauryl) hydrogenated trilinoleate
Suggested Use Levels: 1.0-3.0%
Applications: Face color
Comments: Cithrol PGTL is a nonionic water-in-oil emulsifier that offers outstanding efficiency and versatility. This high-performance system is 100% bio-based and a great alternative to traditional PEG based systems.
Jeen International Corporation
Phone: (973) 439-1401
Jeechem NDA alkanes
INCI: Different INCI names for each product in the series
Suggested Use Levels: 0.5-30
Applications: Hair care, skin care, body care, color cosmetics
Comments: Jeechem NDA alkanes are naturally-derived high purity alkanes derived from vegetable feedstocks, engineered specifically for their properties and performance. Their velvety softness is dramatically beneficial in color and decorative cosmetics where they act as solvents, carriers, dispersants, de-tackifiers, setting modifiers, and solubilizers, contributing functional solutions while simultaneously giving the formulator endless choices and the ability to impact feel, playtime and touch.
OleoSil naturally-derived silicone elastomer gels
INCI: Different INCI names for each product in the series
Suggested Use Levels: 0.5-25
Applications: Hair care, skin care, body care, color cosmetics
Comments: OleoSil products are elastomer gels utilizing Jeechem NDA alkanes for an array of functional end products differentiated by sensorial end feel. OleoSil gels are unique elastomeric silicone polymers reacted with naturally-derived oleochemical alkanes to produce an array of functional end products differentiated by sensorial feel, chemical function, and versatile end use. The integration of naturally-derived alkanes gives these gels a range of 50% to 90% naturally-derived content vastly impacting their performance, solubilization profile and use.
Kobo Products, Inc.
South Plainfield, NJ
INWP/ITT Pigmentary Dispersions Series
INCI: Pigment (and) isononyl isononanoate (and) ozokerite (and) isopropyl titanium triisostearate (and) polyhydroxystearic acid
Suggested Use Levels: 0.01- 50%
Applications: Anhydrous bases and oil phase of O/W or W/O emulsions.
Comments: INWP/ITT pigmentary dispersions are new, stable and viscous color dispersions, with a high pigment loading (up to 75%). They require minimal mixing prior to use in formulations. They are composed of either iron oxides, pigmentary titanium dioxide or inorganic pigments that are surface treated with isopropyl titanium triisostearate and dispersed in isononyl isononanoate.
KTZ Extrafine Sunglow
INCI: Mica (and) iron oxides (CI 77491)
Suggested Use Levels: 0.01-60%
Applications: All personal care
Comments: KTZ Extrafine Sunglow is a new effect pigment, composed of red iron oxide deposited at the surface of 1-15 µm mica platelets. Thanks to its small size, it contributes a soft sheen and precise, uniform, buildable coverage and helps diffuse and neutralize small lines, and skin imperfections. Its orange shade cuts blue/violet which is helpful for covering dark lines underneath eyes and discoloration spots; it can also make lip colors brighter.
INCI: Vinyl dimethicone/methicone silsesquioxane crosspolymer
Suggested Use Levels: 0.01-25%
Applications: Emulsions, gels, hot pours and powders.
Comments: GWC-051H is a new elastic silicone rubber microsphere that works well in foundations, silicone gels, pressed and loose powders. It can transform basic formulations into exquisite finished products with a soft, smooth, flawless finish. GWC-051H can provide buildable coverage and improve the glide and payoff of anhydrous cakes as well as sticks. This microsphere significantly swells in the presence of silicones and optimizes viscosity in silicone-based anhydrous gels.
INCI: Synthetic wax
Suggested Use Levels: 1-15%
Applications: Color cosmetics, skin care, hair care, SPF
Comments: SynKos Waxes are used as gelling agents, thickeners, viscosity modifiers and barriers. They are also used to modify hardness, slip and melting point. They are compatible with all cosmetic systems and can replace polyethylene and petrochemical waxes in formulation. The series includes five products, SynKos 2030, 2040, 2050, 2060 & 2065.
Oilkemia 5S polymer
INCI: Caprylic/capric triglyceride (and) polyurethane-79
Suggested Use Levels: 1-6%, but higher for anhydrous stick formulations
Applications: Recommended for formulating innovative anhydrous or emulsion systems. Bring an aura of magic to the skin, sun and color cosmetic systems.
Comments: Multifunctional oil soluble rheology modifier Oilkemia 5S polymer enhances the alchemy between cosmetic ingredients and active oil components, enabling an array of alluring textures. It provides excellent thickening efficiency, clarity, suspension and stability, with a pleasant non-tacky feel.
Matrifuse S-1 dispersant
INCI: Polyhydroxystearic acid (and) neopentyl glycol diethylhexanoate
Suggested Use Levels: Depends primarily on the pigment loading and the average pigment surface area.
Applications: Recommended for creating a variety of pigmented personal care applications such as sunscreens and color cosmetics. It can also be incorporated as processing aid for pigment predispersions.
Comments: Designed as a convenient liquid dispersion blend, Matrifuse S-1 dispersant effectively separates the agglom¬eration of pigment particles and significantly decreases the viscosity of formulations, which allows for higher pigment loading applications with more uniform spreading, intense color, and refreshing sensory.
Fiesta Cardinal Red FCF-CR3
INCI: Synthetic fluorphlogopite, iron oxides
Suggested Use Levels:1-50%
Applications: Lip, eye, face, nail, personal care
Comments: Our newest and brightest synthetic mica red pearl delivering unsurpassed coverage and smooth laydown due to its fine particle size (10-35µm). This pigment is universally acceptable across all cosmetic and personal care applications.
SilikMira Ice YGB SVX-309
INCI: Silica, TiO2, calcium sodium borosilicate, tin oxide
Suggested Use Level: 0.5-5%
Applications: Lip, eye, face, nail, personal care
Comments: Intense interference color travel effect pigment flake providing a “wow effect” due to its 200-5000µm particle size. The large flakes are “crushable” with pressure upon skin while producing color shifts. Dramatic visuals and textures are created in a wide variety of make-up and personal care applications.
Fiesta Frosty Lavender FCM-FL7
INCI: Synthetic fluorphlogopite, TiO2, silica, aluminium oxide, manganese violet, ferric ferrocyanide, tin oxide, triethoxycaprylylsilane
Suggested Use Levels: 1-50%
Applications: Eye, face, nail, personal care
Comments: Gorgeous shimmering pastel fine particle pearlescent pigment (20-80 µm) delivering a unique sheen on application. The TES coating enhances coverage, wear and hydrophobicity while providing a luxuriously silky finish. This pigment is ideal for numerous cosmetic formulations and soothing tone color palettes.
Shin-Etsu Silicones of America
Phone: 330-630-9860, 800-544-1745
Website: www.Shinetsusilicones.com, www.silicones.jp
INCI: Jojoba oil (and) lauryl dimethicone/polyglycerin-3 crosspolymer
Suggested use levels: 1.5-25%
Applications: Face: illuminators, foundations, blushers, BB/CC cream; Lips: liquid lipstain and creams, lipsticks; Eyes: eye shadows, mascaras, eye liners; Brows: brow gels and creams.
Comments: X-22-6695B is a PEG-free, high shine, organic compatible, self-emulsifying elastomer gel swollen in jojoba oil. The product is derived from natural ingredients. X-22-6695B can be used alone as a sensory enhancer, a thickening agent for oils and emulsions, or as an emulsifier. The active elastomer gel has an innovative 3-dimethional structure that the silicone polymer network is crosslinked with non-PEG, polyglycrin groups and additionally with grafted alkyl (C12) groups. The grafted alkyl groups allow the polymer swell in organic carriers and esters. Jojoba oil carrier further expands the compatibility to include more polar oils. Like KSG-840, X-22-6695B shares many of the similar features and benefits such as stabilizing high internal phase emulsions with large droplet size, forming quick-water-breaking emulsions to deliver the cream-to-water transforming textures. The high shine nature of X-22-6695B makes it uniquely suitable for high shine lip products both in an anhydrous and an emulsion format. Additionally, it’s an ideal ingredient for facial illuminators and eye shadows. The formulated products are rich, moisturizing and with exceptional skin feel. Ambient process is the norm when ingredients do not require heat. Low energy process is preferred provided there is good mixing; low energy homogenization is acceptable but not necessary.
INCI name: Acrylates/stearyl acrylate/dimethicone methacrylate coplymer
Suggested use levels: 3-15%
Applications: Face: facial illuminators, foundations, BB/CC cream; Eyes: eye shadows, mascaras, lipsticks, blushers, pencils; Lips: lipsticks, liquid lip colors, lip creams, pencils; Brows: brow gels and creams
Comments: KP-561P is a 100% active low melting point (25C-35C) silicone wax, which is a polysiloxane and stearyl alkyl functionalized polyacrylate film former. The film former wax is compatible with most organic formulation ingredients, which helps with the film forming wax forming a film on the substrate upon application. The acrylate backbone provides good adhesion. Upon application, the wax melts on the skin/lips, providing non-migrating high shine and gloss. Further, upon application, the conformation of the polymer would rearrange/re-orient such that the low surface energy moiety, siloxane, would be at the air/substrate interface, providing hydrophobicity and lubricious feel, thus, the longlasting shine and nonsticky feel.
INCI: Isododecane (and) acrylates/dimethicone copolymer
Suggested use levels: Emulsions: 2.5-10%, Anhydrous: 15-30%
Applications: Face: facial Illuminators, foundations, BB/CC cream; Eyes: eye shadows, mascaras, lipsticks, blushers, pencils; Lips: lipsticks, liquid lipstain, lip creams, pencils; Brows: brow gels and creams; Pigment treatment.
Comments: Shin-Etsu KP-550P is a 40% actives, ultra pure, silicone grafted silicone-acrylate film former in isododecane. It is designed to be a durable, smooth, and pliable film for applications requiring comfort, long lasting and non-transfer properties. The acrylate backbone offers strong adhesion to substrates; the grafting polysiloxanes chains offer hydrophobicity, flexibility and non-tacky feel. Upon drying, the film is water and sebum resistant. The product is silicone and organic compatible.
Spectra Colors Corporation
Suggested Use Levels: 2-4% of total formulation
Comments: SpectraRinse from Spectra Colors Corporation is the only true rinsable dyes, according to the company. The water-based dye products rinse off skin and most fabrics with no soap/detergent necessary, which still offering deep, saturated shades of color.
Sun Chemical Performance Pigments
Phone: 513-681-5950 or 800-543-2323
INCI: Talc (and) titanium dioxide
Suggested Use Levels: 1-5%
Applications: Face powders, foundation, skin care, body powders, as well as creams and lotions for the hands and body.
Comments: Sun Chemical’s SpectraFlex Illusion composite pigment offers a novel approach to soft focus effects. Developed to balance the properties of transparency, diffuse transmission, and diffuse reflectivity to achieve optimal optical blurring effects, SpectraFlex Illusion is a cost-effective alternative to ingredients that have been used in the past, such as alumina, polyethylene microspheres, and silicone elastomers. SpectraFlex Illusion soft focus effect pigment can be used in daily wear makeup primers to help optically blur fine lines and other imperfections and provides an immediate visible benefit after application to the skin.
Looking for a supplier for your cosmetics formula? Check out ourBuyer’s Guide, which is updated regularly at www.Happi.com.