Tom Branna, Editorial Director12.02.20
When would-be shoppers can’t go outside, their thoughts turn inward and it’s time to take a good look in the mirror. Consumers around the world have done just that during the pandemic and they don’t necessarily like what they see: blemishes, discoloration, worry lines and wrinkles. Lockdowns have become a fact of life; in fact, last month “lockdown” was declared the Word of the Year for 2020, by Collins Dictionary.
“Our lexicographers chose ‘lockdown’ as Word of the Year because it is a unifying experience for billions of people across the world, who have had, collectively, to play their part in combating the spread of COVID-19,” Collins wrote after announcing the award.
With nowhere to go and looking for something to do, it’s no surprise that total industry consumer spending on video gaming in the US surged 24% to a record $11.2 billion. At the same time, lockdowns around the world have proved to be a boon for skin care marketers and their suppliers. Time at home has given consumers time to take better care of their skin. The data certainly point this out.
According to numbers from The NPD Group, overall prestige beauty sales fell 24% through August, but during that time, sales of prestige skin care declined just 13%—that’s a much better performance turned in by makeup (-36%) or fragrance (-21%). Even better, with no access to professional skin care procedures, sales of facial beauty devices jumped 9%.
“Despite the stark realties, we all took better care of our skin,” explained Larissa Jensen, vice president and beauty industry advisor, NPD Group, during the Cosmetic Executive Women’s state of the industry session.
Signals Analytics (SA) has the data to back it. The subscription-based service gives its corporate customers the ability to track what consumers are posting online about aging, ingredients and products. The company has 200 active users, including Coty and Estée Lauder. Signals Analytics has been around for seven years, but the company recently gained the ability to track the entire online beauty landscape, according to SA’s Chase Hochman.
What Are They Thinking?
“We can see consumer discussions increasing about lash extensions or facial masks,” he explained. “Or the fact that in the past few months there has been a 42% increase in discussions around renewable and reusable.”
And while DIY was the buzzword in April, ease-of-use has become the term to watch moving forward, according to Hochman. These insights can help multinationals stay ahead of the trends and startups encroach on big players’ territory.
“If a startup wants to compete in a particular category, our program eliminates the need for data scientists,” insisted Hochman. “We can connect all the data, integrate sales and patent information, too, and be a one-stop shop for indies.”
It’s these insights that can help a company deliver messaging that resonates across categories, he added.
As the pandemic approaches its grim one-year anniversary, mask-weary consumers are waking up to the fact that regular use of face masks to mitigate the spread of COVID-19 can wreak havoc with their skin. Masks trap moisture against the face, which can lead to acne flares and/or dry, itchy irritated skin. Happi columnist and industry consultant Paolo Giacomoni notes that masks can exacerbate existing conditions such as rosacea and rashes due to increased temperature, brushing, occlusion or increased humidity (see Efficacy Challenges, November, 2020).
The pandemic has been a boon for online spending; now marketers have to understand how to reach consumers. Rebel Gail Communications and 360 Market Reach conducted a study on COVID-19 and online spending. Rebel Gail Co-Founder Jessica Goldberg told CEW the survey was created to provide real-time information to help brands plan for what is sure to be a tumultuous 2021.
“Brands need to beef up their digital footprint—website, social platforms and shopping experiences,” insisted Goldberg. “Beauty brands especially need to look at their commerce experiences. Where typically, consumers went in-store for demos and to try on beauty products, that model now needs to adjust for changing behavior.”
One of Rebel Gail’s findings is that 81% of all people surveyed use YouTube, 78% Facebook, 50% Instagram and just 16% TikTok.
“YouTube is a platform that transcends the generation gap,” she told CEW. “About 93% of 18- to 39-year olds use YouTube, the most of any social media platform. Eighty-four percent of 40- to 55 year-olds are also on You Tube. If you have a limited budget, you really need to look where your target is spending the most time.”
A Derm’s Eyeview
Dermatologists explained that a consistent skin care routine can help to prevent problems. Dr. Girish Mohan of the Hartford Health Care Center for Dermatology has suggested a daily skin care regimen to soothe the skin for all mask wearers. It entails fragrance-free cleanser that can be used to remove oil, dirt, bacteria and irritants, and after cleansing, skin moisture balance can be maintained with a fragrance-free facial moisturizer while avoiding makeup in the areas covered by the mask since the cosmetic components can act as an additional irritant for mask wearers.
Blue light is another bright spot for the skin care industry. Jensen noted that with consumers stuck at home with their faces stuck in front of a computer screen, there is a concern about the impact that blue light has on skin. That concern translated into a 77% increase in sales through August for skin care formulas that promise blue light protection, according NPD. Even better, blue light-protecting makeup sales more than doubled.
Dermatologists don’t just treat patients and recommend products these days, more of them are marketing skin care formulas of their own. According to NPD’s Jensen, doctor brands are having their moment, during the pandemic. Consumers increased their at-home skin care routine by turning to high potency ingredients and doctor-supported brands in 2020. Dollar share growth increased 5% for these “clinical brands.”
Dr. Munique Maia, a plastic surgeon, has launched an eponymous skin care line that’s available at maiamdskincare.com. Prior to purchase, customers can schedule an individual online skin consultation with an expert licensed esthetician who can recommend the products that will best address their unique concerns.
“We have a streamlined process where the client can go to our website and book an online or in-office appointment with one of our master estheticians,” explained Maia. They are helpful resources for guidance and to establish a skin care routine.”
Her online availability is part of the growing telemedicine sector; according to NPD, 37% of consumers experienced telemedicine as of September 2020—up 26 points compared to February 2020. Of course, there is plenty of room in the multibillion-dollar skin care category for entrepreneurs with formulation expertise—just ask David Petrillo, founder and CEO of Perfect Image.
“I didn’t really mean to get into the skin care market, I just kind of stumbled into it,” explained Petrillo. “My plan to was get a well-paying lab job or sales job in the medical or pharmaceutical field. I interviewed for jobs, and came across one that involved researching non-surgical cosmetic procedures, and that was when I first discovered chemical peels and their unique benefits.”
After extensive research, Petrillo realized there was a significant demand for at-home peels, but there was limited access, affordability, and availability in the market.
“Because of my background in chemistry, I was able to essentially start putting together formula ideas and mixing chemicals out of my parent’s house in the upstairs bedroom.”
There’s certainly demand for such formulas. Sales of facial exfoliators rose 9% through the first eight months of 2020, as consumers turned to at-home products to mimic facial treatments, according to NPD.
A-Peeling Concepts
Perfect Image Skincare offers a range of peels with a variety of glycolic acid levels. While some, at 50-70% may seem aggressive for at-home use, Petrillo explained there are several safety systems in place to help guide the customer into making the best and safest choices. For example, Perfect Image has a level system, which ranges from less aggressive products in a 10% concentration to products that are sold only to professionals.
“The level system essentially gives a rank of strength on each product so it can give them a good understanding of how strong a particular product may be,” explained Petrillo. “In addition to that, we have a concern system, that they can use to easily select the type of product that will be best for them based off their unique skin concern or blemishes.”
Perfect Image also buffers peels to a safe but effective pH range, and most peels are made in a gel form to avoid spills and penetrate at a safer rate, according to Petrillo.
“Additionally, we have very detailed safety instructions, as well as licensed professionals on staff who can address any questions they have, and we plan to launch a new trial plan program in January that takes customers through a series of skin-related questions, and helps narrow the selection process down, and allows the customer to work one-on-one with a professional in a private messaging portal, similar to teledermatology but for chemical peels,” explained Petrillo.
While a proponent of glycolic acid in skin care, he noted that there are many products and ingredients that tend to be overhyped, especially ones that are new to the market or recently discovered and do not have enough evidence or studies out to back the claims being used.
“The biggest thing is when products only have a small amount of the main or beneficial ingredients, simply for a label claim,” said Petrillo. “Many products have a good list of ingredients but they just do not have enough of it in there to make a difference, much like some of the single-use masks you see in stores today. Everything from charcoal masks to different butters, oils and extracts, there is such a sea of masks that it can really confuse the customer on what they really need for their skin, especially if they are looking to improve a skin concern or blemish. Drenching your skin in these can possibly do more harm than good, and may end up clogging pores and causing additional breakouts, so it’s important for consumers to do their research ahead of time.”
In sharp contrast, Petrillo said niacinamide is underrated and has many skin-benefiting properties and has the ability to reduce transepidermal water loss and increase protein and ceramide synthesis, which helps prevent permeability and locks in moisture while reducing irritation and impurities from environmental damage.
“Clinical studies have demonstrated positive results in wrinkle reduction in 64% of test subjects, with only one person having a mild irritation,” said Petrillo. “Another study found that niacinamide was effective in calming the skin and reducing rosacea in nearly 80% of subjects. Additionally, another major property is its anti-inflammatory benefits and its ability to reduce or suppress inflammatory cytokines, rendering it useful for a range of conditions from acne and rosacea to pigmentary disorders such as dark spots and hyperpigmentation.”
Strivectin’s researchers understand the power of niacin. Its new Wrinkle Recode Moisture Rich Barrier Cream is said to contain a 1:1:1 biomimetic lipid ratio of skin’s essential lipids together with the company’s patented form of niacin, NIA-114. Strivectin maintains that the formula addresses key signs of a compromised skin barrier, including fine lines, wrinkles, visible redness, and a loss of radiance and hydration.
New NPD
Few companies have invested as much time and resources into vitamin B3 than Procter & Gamble.
Just in time for the holidays, Olay rolled out an array of Regenerist Collagen Peptide 24 formulas. The line includes face moisturizer, cream cleanser, serum and eye cream. In addition to collagen peptide, the formula includes Olay researchers’ favorite ingredient—vitamin B3 (niacinamide). It helps skin retain moisture and hydrates to help with surface skin cell turnover and regeneration. According to Procter & Gamble, with two weeks of use, skin looks and feels visibly firmer and fine lines and wrinkles will be less noticeable.
“We’ve always focused on the fundamentals and the basics to create products that perform well and are not just hope in a jar,” noted Dr. Frauke Neuser in a recent Happi podcast. “We recently introduced Regenerist Ultra Rich so that every woman finds a product that she really loves and really works for her skin type and her skin needs.”
The Ultra Rich formula contains vitamin B3 plus peptides, to deliver lasting and non-greasy hydration.
But beyond the right ingredients, the right packaging too can help women choose the right formula for her skin, explained Neuser.
“We’ve done a great job the way we communicate the products and make them more intuitive. For example, Retinol 24 is packaged in a purple jar because it is a night cream. We are making it easier for women to choose the right product for her and that is half the battle. It’s not just making great products; it’s making sure that women find the right products.”
Dr. Elsa Jungman, PhD, designed what she calls the first “Certified Microbiome Friendly” skin care regimen. Her eponymous line consists of cleanser and serum, each created with less than five ingredients. She urges consumers to take a less-is-more approach and to stop layering and start listening.
“A study showed that among women with sensitive skin, 60% indicated a response to cosmetics,” said Jungman. “Facial skin is particularly sensitive as it is more exposed to skin care and the environment. Is it also an area that has more innervation, making it more susceptible to feel any discomfort or reaction to product.”
Jungman maintains that sensitive skin can be triggered by what is applied directly on the skin as some ingredients and formulation can damage the skin barrier and the microbiome and, as a consequence, weaken the skin and cause the skin to react more to external aggressors. For example, harsh emulsifiers, glycolic acid and ethanol are known to disrupt the stratum corneum.
In contrast, the Dr. Elsa Jungman line is focused on gentle cleansing and moisturizing. To avoid preservatives, the formulations are anhydrous. The hero moisturizing serum, Start Over, is made primarily of squalane derived from sugar cane, Sacha Inci in a refined version that is sourced from a biotech.
“Our other serums also contain oat oil which is nice for more combination/oily skin or refined sunflower oil to extra moisturize,” explained Jungman. “For cleanser we also focused on gentle oil and very mild surfactant at low concentration such as polyglyceryl 4 oleate. All our formulations have been certified microbiome friendly by MyMicrobiome.”
Last month, BioHyalux introduced a skin care line developed around hyaluronic acid (HA). The company’s parent is Bloomage Biotech, which calls itself the world’s largest HA manufacturer.
“Biohyalux is a new launch in the US, but a well-established brand in China, where we have reached 3 digits annual growth rate in 2020 and over 160 million ampoules already sold,” according to Giuseppe Calloni, vice president, Bloomage Biotechnology.
Although HA has been widely used in skin care formulas, BioHyalux is different because it is made up of HA in four molecular weights: large, medium, small and micro. Each of these weights was developed to penetrate the skin at different depths. The larger the molecule the better the protection at the superficial skin layer. The smaller the molecule the deeper it can be penetrated for absorption.
“This makes our HHAF (Hexagonal Hyaluronic Acid Formulation) more effective than ordinary HA at fulfilling a range of regenerative and hydration functions improving the health of skin within,” added Calloni.
Furthermore, each serum is formulated with different active ingredients for different skin care needs. All products are free of alcohol, fragrances and animal-derived ingredients. The soft ampoules are made of 100% recyclable materials, and are manufactured in compliance with ISO 14001, Environmental Management System Certification.
“The serums are handy and easy to take with you everywhere you go, so that you can rehydrate and treat your skin wherever you go,” added Calloni.
Biohyalux is available online at us.biohyalux.com.
DefenAge’s new 6-Week Perfection Neck Cream is designed to improve the lines, folds and impacts of gravity on neck skin, a site where aging is often most noticeable. According to the company’s CEO and Co-Founder Nikolay Turovets, PhD, DefenAge’s key ingredient is defensin-molecules, which work via an entirely different mechanism of action than retinol but causes a similar visible cosmetic treatment effect without retinol-associated side-effects.
“No doubt that topical retinoids, including tretinoin, are some of the greatest skin anti-aging treatments,” explained Turovets. “Unfortunately, not all people can tolerate retinol; a typical ‘retinol-reaction’ includes erythema, peeling and burning at the treatment areas of the skin. Retinoids also cause sun-sensitivity.”
According to Turovets, research shows that defensin-molecules cause entirely different therapeutic effects at different concentrations. For example, at high concentrations, defensins can fight bacteria, and in a very specific lower range of concentration, defensins can stimulate the body to produce new and young skin cells and be a powerful anti-aging compound.
“We have identified an ideal concentration of anti-aging defensins that we protect as know-how,” he explained. “The initial re-constitution of defensins is performed in our laboratory in Carlsbad, and very few people are involved.”
Turovets described defensins are a relatively fragile type of molecules; therefore, DefenAge stabilizes them with natural carrier molecules and incorporate a defensin-carrier molecule complex into liposomes—to avoid the direct contact of defensins with other ingredients in the formula. Such a composition made defensins functionally and structurally stable; this liposome-encapsulated defensin complex is trademarked.
“Defensins are an incredibly powerful ingredient that literally turns the clock of aging back on our skin, so we do not see a need to chase market for new ingredients; rather, we’ll find new areas for application and continue developing products using defensins,” he maintained. “We have a few ideas for the near future and are definitely looking to launch a new product in 2021.”
Few ingredients during the past 30 years have captured formulators’ and consumers’ interest as much as cannabidiol (CBD). According to Petrillo, there are certainly benefits to CBD because of its anti-inflammatory potential, but more research needs to be conducted.
The Scoop from Mother Dirt
A pioneer in probiotic skin care, Mother Dirt has reformulated its entire line to include its Active Probiotic System featuring AOB (Ammonia Oxidizing Bacteria). AOB is the key ingredient in the brand’s hero product, AO+ Restorative Mist.
“We have received countless emails, DMs, reviews and social posts asking for more probiotic formulas and we are thrilled to finally be able to deliver on our customer’s requests across the entire product line,” said Karin Piscitelli, senior VP of product and marketing.
Along with the reformulation, Mother Dirt has added two new skin care kits and a new hair product to its roster.
“We at Mother Dirt believe that your skin is fundamentally amazing,” said Piscitelli. “ What we have found is that it is actually traditional skin care that has adversely affected the skin’s natural microbiome and stripped it of the powerful bacteria that keeps the peace and allows it to thrive. This presents itself in the form of dryness, oiliness, breakouts and everything in between. Our latest kits are scientifically based to restore the complex ecosystem of your skin. Just like nature intended.”
The PeaceKeeper features a trio of products that repair the damage caused by traditional skin care and rebalance the skin biome. When used together, the probiotic extracts in the Probiotic Foaming Cleanser and Probiotic Moisturizing Serum prime skin so the live and active AO+ Restorative Mist can nourish and restore, said the company.
The Difference treats acne by repairing the damage caused by traditional skin care to rebalance the biome and clarify skin. When used together, the probiotic extracts in the Probiotic Foaming Cleanser and the new Daily Acne Treatment Lotion prime skin so the live and active AO+ Restorative Mist can fully nourish and restore.
In addition, Mother Dirt launched Probiotic Hydrating Conditioner to complement its reformulated Probiotic Hydrating Hair Wash. “That’s why we have not put it in our products yet. It is too new to know much about it, and much more research and studies need to be done on them for the benefits of skin, we also need to find out what potential side effects there are as well if any,” she insisted.
“We try and only incorporate ingredients which enough studies have been conducted on them that demonstrated successful results with each study. Too many companies are eager to just put the newest and hottest ingredient in their products, in order to fulfill the temporary hype and demand without knowing everything about that ingredient or having enough studies to back it.”
In contrast, Petrillo predicts that mandelic acid (an AHA) and polyhydroxy acids (PHAs) will continue to get more attention from formulators as they offer a safer approach for more sensitive skin types and those who are prone to acne and breakouts, one of the largest categories of skin concerns. He acknowledged that neither material is new, but noted that mandelic acid gives very positive benefits for those who are prone to breakouts much like salicylic acid (BHA), but is a less harsh alternative to salicylic without drying skin.
“PHAs have a larger molecular formula, so they are not able to penetrate quite as aggressively as an AHA or BHA, so it makes it ideal for those with sensitive skin such as rosacea, eczema, or dry or itchy skin types,” he added.
Strivectin’s new Lactic Acid Nightly Retexturizing Serum is said to be different than other AHA formulas, since lactic acid has the ability to improve natural moisturizing factors while gently resurfacing dull, dry skin. According to Strivectin, the formula also contains blue cypress oil to sooth dry skin and impart a natural blue color, Nonapeptide-1 which improves skin radiance and luminosity, sustainably sourced hibiscus extract which functions like an AHA to gently resurface skin and the aforementioned NIA-114. The vegan serum is formulated for nightly use and is clinically proven to be gentle.
But not every sensitive skin issue requires novel materials. According to Dermatologist Shari Sperling, founder of Sperling Dermatology, the most effective prescription ingredients for eczema are topical cortisone creams or ointments help to reduce inflammation, relieve itch and redness, and improve the appearance of the skin. However, to alleviate symptoms, she advises her patients to use a thick moisturizer like Aquaphor or Vanicream and apply it multiple times a day.
“I love CeraVe moisturizer and Vanicream products—they come as cream, ointment and soap,” explained Sperling. “Eucerin is also a good thick moisturizer... I also love Aquaphor.”
She also suggests to her patients that they look for moisturizers with ceramides to help restore the skin barrier, use gentle soaps such as Dove, and avoid fragrances in creams and laundry products.
“Look for ‘fragrance-free’ versions such as Tide-free or All-free,” she advised.
Nearly a year into a lockdown, all of us are a little sensitive these days.
“Our lexicographers chose ‘lockdown’ as Word of the Year because it is a unifying experience for billions of people across the world, who have had, collectively, to play their part in combating the spread of COVID-19,” Collins wrote after announcing the award.
With nowhere to go and looking for something to do, it’s no surprise that total industry consumer spending on video gaming in the US surged 24% to a record $11.2 billion. At the same time, lockdowns around the world have proved to be a boon for skin care marketers and their suppliers. Time at home has given consumers time to take better care of their skin. The data certainly point this out.
According to numbers from The NPD Group, overall prestige beauty sales fell 24% through August, but during that time, sales of prestige skin care declined just 13%—that’s a much better performance turned in by makeup (-36%) or fragrance (-21%). Even better, with no access to professional skin care procedures, sales of facial beauty devices jumped 9%.
“Despite the stark realties, we all took better care of our skin,” explained Larissa Jensen, vice president and beauty industry advisor, NPD Group, during the Cosmetic Executive Women’s state of the industry session.
Signals Analytics (SA) has the data to back it. The subscription-based service gives its corporate customers the ability to track what consumers are posting online about aging, ingredients and products. The company has 200 active users, including Coty and Estée Lauder. Signals Analytics has been around for seven years, but the company recently gained the ability to track the entire online beauty landscape, according to SA’s Chase Hochman.
What Are They Thinking?
“We can see consumer discussions increasing about lash extensions or facial masks,” he explained. “Or the fact that in the past few months there has been a 42% increase in discussions around renewable and reusable.”
And while DIY was the buzzword in April, ease-of-use has become the term to watch moving forward, according to Hochman. These insights can help multinationals stay ahead of the trends and startups encroach on big players’ territory.
“If a startup wants to compete in a particular category, our program eliminates the need for data scientists,” insisted Hochman. “We can connect all the data, integrate sales and patent information, too, and be a one-stop shop for indies.”
It’s these insights that can help a company deliver messaging that resonates across categories, he added.
As the pandemic approaches its grim one-year anniversary, mask-weary consumers are waking up to the fact that regular use of face masks to mitigate the spread of COVID-19 can wreak havoc with their skin. Masks trap moisture against the face, which can lead to acne flares and/or dry, itchy irritated skin. Happi columnist and industry consultant Paolo Giacomoni notes that masks can exacerbate existing conditions such as rosacea and rashes due to increased temperature, brushing, occlusion or increased humidity (see Efficacy Challenges, November, 2020).
The pandemic has been a boon for online spending; now marketers have to understand how to reach consumers. Rebel Gail Communications and 360 Market Reach conducted a study on COVID-19 and online spending. Rebel Gail Co-Founder Jessica Goldberg told CEW the survey was created to provide real-time information to help brands plan for what is sure to be a tumultuous 2021.
“Brands need to beef up their digital footprint—website, social platforms and shopping experiences,” insisted Goldberg. “Beauty brands especially need to look at their commerce experiences. Where typically, consumers went in-store for demos and to try on beauty products, that model now needs to adjust for changing behavior.”
One of Rebel Gail’s findings is that 81% of all people surveyed use YouTube, 78% Facebook, 50% Instagram and just 16% TikTok.
“YouTube is a platform that transcends the generation gap,” she told CEW. “About 93% of 18- to 39-year olds use YouTube, the most of any social media platform. Eighty-four percent of 40- to 55 year-olds are also on You Tube. If you have a limited budget, you really need to look where your target is spending the most time.”
A Derm’s Eyeview
Dermatologists explained that a consistent skin care routine can help to prevent problems. Dr. Girish Mohan of the Hartford Health Care Center for Dermatology has suggested a daily skin care regimen to soothe the skin for all mask wearers. It entails fragrance-free cleanser that can be used to remove oil, dirt, bacteria and irritants, and after cleansing, skin moisture balance can be maintained with a fragrance-free facial moisturizer while avoiding makeup in the areas covered by the mask since the cosmetic components can act as an additional irritant for mask wearers.
Blue light is another bright spot for the skin care industry. Jensen noted that with consumers stuck at home with their faces stuck in front of a computer screen, there is a concern about the impact that blue light has on skin. That concern translated into a 77% increase in sales through August for skin care formulas that promise blue light protection, according NPD. Even better, blue light-protecting makeup sales more than doubled.
Dermatologists don’t just treat patients and recommend products these days, more of them are marketing skin care formulas of their own. According to NPD’s Jensen, doctor brands are having their moment, during the pandemic. Consumers increased their at-home skin care routine by turning to high potency ingredients and doctor-supported brands in 2020. Dollar share growth increased 5% for these “clinical brands.”
Dr. Munique Maia, a plastic surgeon, has launched an eponymous skin care line that’s available at maiamdskincare.com. Prior to purchase, customers can schedule an individual online skin consultation with an expert licensed esthetician who can recommend the products that will best address their unique concerns.
“We have a streamlined process where the client can go to our website and book an online or in-office appointment with one of our master estheticians,” explained Maia. They are helpful resources for guidance and to establish a skin care routine.”
Her online availability is part of the growing telemedicine sector; according to NPD, 37% of consumers experienced telemedicine as of September 2020—up 26 points compared to February 2020. Of course, there is plenty of room in the multibillion-dollar skin care category for entrepreneurs with formulation expertise—just ask David Petrillo, founder and CEO of Perfect Image.
“I didn’t really mean to get into the skin care market, I just kind of stumbled into it,” explained Petrillo. “My plan to was get a well-paying lab job or sales job in the medical or pharmaceutical field. I interviewed for jobs, and came across one that involved researching non-surgical cosmetic procedures, and that was when I first discovered chemical peels and their unique benefits.”
After extensive research, Petrillo realized there was a significant demand for at-home peels, but there was limited access, affordability, and availability in the market.
“Because of my background in chemistry, I was able to essentially start putting together formula ideas and mixing chemicals out of my parent’s house in the upstairs bedroom.”
There’s certainly demand for such formulas. Sales of facial exfoliators rose 9% through the first eight months of 2020, as consumers turned to at-home products to mimic facial treatments, according to NPD.
A-Peeling Concepts
Perfect Image Skincare offers a range of peels with a variety of glycolic acid levels. While some, at 50-70% may seem aggressive for at-home use, Petrillo explained there are several safety systems in place to help guide the customer into making the best and safest choices. For example, Perfect Image has a level system, which ranges from less aggressive products in a 10% concentration to products that are sold only to professionals.
“The level system essentially gives a rank of strength on each product so it can give them a good understanding of how strong a particular product may be,” explained Petrillo. “In addition to that, we have a concern system, that they can use to easily select the type of product that will be best for them based off their unique skin concern or blemishes.”
Perfect Image also buffers peels to a safe but effective pH range, and most peels are made in a gel form to avoid spills and penetrate at a safer rate, according to Petrillo.
“Additionally, we have very detailed safety instructions, as well as licensed professionals on staff who can address any questions they have, and we plan to launch a new trial plan program in January that takes customers through a series of skin-related questions, and helps narrow the selection process down, and allows the customer to work one-on-one with a professional in a private messaging portal, similar to teledermatology but for chemical peels,” explained Petrillo.
While a proponent of glycolic acid in skin care, he noted that there are many products and ingredients that tend to be overhyped, especially ones that are new to the market or recently discovered and do not have enough evidence or studies out to back the claims being used.
“The biggest thing is when products only have a small amount of the main or beneficial ingredients, simply for a label claim,” said Petrillo. “Many products have a good list of ingredients but they just do not have enough of it in there to make a difference, much like some of the single-use masks you see in stores today. Everything from charcoal masks to different butters, oils and extracts, there is such a sea of masks that it can really confuse the customer on what they really need for their skin, especially if they are looking to improve a skin concern or blemish. Drenching your skin in these can possibly do more harm than good, and may end up clogging pores and causing additional breakouts, so it’s important for consumers to do their research ahead of time.”
In sharp contrast, Petrillo said niacinamide is underrated and has many skin-benefiting properties and has the ability to reduce transepidermal water loss and increase protein and ceramide synthesis, which helps prevent permeability and locks in moisture while reducing irritation and impurities from environmental damage.
“Clinical studies have demonstrated positive results in wrinkle reduction in 64% of test subjects, with only one person having a mild irritation,” said Petrillo. “Another study found that niacinamide was effective in calming the skin and reducing rosacea in nearly 80% of subjects. Additionally, another major property is its anti-inflammatory benefits and its ability to reduce or suppress inflammatory cytokines, rendering it useful for a range of conditions from acne and rosacea to pigmentary disorders such as dark spots and hyperpigmentation.”
Strivectin’s researchers understand the power of niacin. Its new Wrinkle Recode Moisture Rich Barrier Cream is said to contain a 1:1:1 biomimetic lipid ratio of skin’s essential lipids together with the company’s patented form of niacin, NIA-114. Strivectin maintains that the formula addresses key signs of a compromised skin barrier, including fine lines, wrinkles, visible redness, and a loss of radiance and hydration.
New NPD
Few companies have invested as much time and resources into vitamin B3 than Procter & Gamble.
Just in time for the holidays, Olay rolled out an array of Regenerist Collagen Peptide 24 formulas. The line includes face moisturizer, cream cleanser, serum and eye cream. In addition to collagen peptide, the formula includes Olay researchers’ favorite ingredient—vitamin B3 (niacinamide). It helps skin retain moisture and hydrates to help with surface skin cell turnover and regeneration. According to Procter & Gamble, with two weeks of use, skin looks and feels visibly firmer and fine lines and wrinkles will be less noticeable.
“We’ve always focused on the fundamentals and the basics to create products that perform well and are not just hope in a jar,” noted Dr. Frauke Neuser in a recent Happi podcast. “We recently introduced Regenerist Ultra Rich so that every woman finds a product that she really loves and really works for her skin type and her skin needs.”
The Ultra Rich formula contains vitamin B3 plus peptides, to deliver lasting and non-greasy hydration.
But beyond the right ingredients, the right packaging too can help women choose the right formula for her skin, explained Neuser.
“We’ve done a great job the way we communicate the products and make them more intuitive. For example, Retinol 24 is packaged in a purple jar because it is a night cream. We are making it easier for women to choose the right product for her and that is half the battle. It’s not just making great products; it’s making sure that women find the right products.”
Dr. Elsa Jungman, PhD, designed what she calls the first “Certified Microbiome Friendly” skin care regimen. Her eponymous line consists of cleanser and serum, each created with less than five ingredients. She urges consumers to take a less-is-more approach and to stop layering and start listening.
“A study showed that among women with sensitive skin, 60% indicated a response to cosmetics,” said Jungman. “Facial skin is particularly sensitive as it is more exposed to skin care and the environment. Is it also an area that has more innervation, making it more susceptible to feel any discomfort or reaction to product.”
Jungman maintains that sensitive skin can be triggered by what is applied directly on the skin as some ingredients and formulation can damage the skin barrier and the microbiome and, as a consequence, weaken the skin and cause the skin to react more to external aggressors. For example, harsh emulsifiers, glycolic acid and ethanol are known to disrupt the stratum corneum.
In contrast, the Dr. Elsa Jungman line is focused on gentle cleansing and moisturizing. To avoid preservatives, the formulations are anhydrous. The hero moisturizing serum, Start Over, is made primarily of squalane derived from sugar cane, Sacha Inci in a refined version that is sourced from a biotech.
“Our other serums also contain oat oil which is nice for more combination/oily skin or refined sunflower oil to extra moisturize,” explained Jungman. “For cleanser we also focused on gentle oil and very mild surfactant at low concentration such as polyglyceryl 4 oleate. All our formulations have been certified microbiome friendly by MyMicrobiome.”
Last month, BioHyalux introduced a skin care line developed around hyaluronic acid (HA). The company’s parent is Bloomage Biotech, which calls itself the world’s largest HA manufacturer.
“Biohyalux is a new launch in the US, but a well-established brand in China, where we have reached 3 digits annual growth rate in 2020 and over 160 million ampoules already sold,” according to Giuseppe Calloni, vice president, Bloomage Biotechnology.
Although HA has been widely used in skin care formulas, BioHyalux is different because it is made up of HA in four molecular weights: large, medium, small and micro. Each of these weights was developed to penetrate the skin at different depths. The larger the molecule the better the protection at the superficial skin layer. The smaller the molecule the deeper it can be penetrated for absorption.
“This makes our HHAF (Hexagonal Hyaluronic Acid Formulation) more effective than ordinary HA at fulfilling a range of regenerative and hydration functions improving the health of skin within,” added Calloni.
Furthermore, each serum is formulated with different active ingredients for different skin care needs. All products are free of alcohol, fragrances and animal-derived ingredients. The soft ampoules are made of 100% recyclable materials, and are manufactured in compliance with ISO 14001, Environmental Management System Certification.
“The serums are handy and easy to take with you everywhere you go, so that you can rehydrate and treat your skin wherever you go,” added Calloni.
Biohyalux is available online at us.biohyalux.com.
DefenAge’s new 6-Week Perfection Neck Cream is designed to improve the lines, folds and impacts of gravity on neck skin, a site where aging is often most noticeable. According to the company’s CEO and Co-Founder Nikolay Turovets, PhD, DefenAge’s key ingredient is defensin-molecules, which work via an entirely different mechanism of action than retinol but causes a similar visible cosmetic treatment effect without retinol-associated side-effects.
“No doubt that topical retinoids, including tretinoin, are some of the greatest skin anti-aging treatments,” explained Turovets. “Unfortunately, not all people can tolerate retinol; a typical ‘retinol-reaction’ includes erythema, peeling and burning at the treatment areas of the skin. Retinoids also cause sun-sensitivity.”
According to Turovets, research shows that defensin-molecules cause entirely different therapeutic effects at different concentrations. For example, at high concentrations, defensins can fight bacteria, and in a very specific lower range of concentration, defensins can stimulate the body to produce new and young skin cells and be a powerful anti-aging compound.
“We have identified an ideal concentration of anti-aging defensins that we protect as know-how,” he explained. “The initial re-constitution of defensins is performed in our laboratory in Carlsbad, and very few people are involved.”
Turovets described defensins are a relatively fragile type of molecules; therefore, DefenAge stabilizes them with natural carrier molecules and incorporate a defensin-carrier molecule complex into liposomes—to avoid the direct contact of defensins with other ingredients in the formula. Such a composition made defensins functionally and structurally stable; this liposome-encapsulated defensin complex is trademarked.
“Defensins are an incredibly powerful ingredient that literally turns the clock of aging back on our skin, so we do not see a need to chase market for new ingredients; rather, we’ll find new areas for application and continue developing products using defensins,” he maintained. “We have a few ideas for the near future and are definitely looking to launch a new product in 2021.”
Few ingredients during the past 30 years have captured formulators’ and consumers’ interest as much as cannabidiol (CBD). According to Petrillo, there are certainly benefits to CBD because of its anti-inflammatory potential, but more research needs to be conducted.
The Scoop from Mother Dirt
A pioneer in probiotic skin care, Mother Dirt has reformulated its entire line to include its Active Probiotic System featuring AOB (Ammonia Oxidizing Bacteria). AOB is the key ingredient in the brand’s hero product, AO+ Restorative Mist.
“We have received countless emails, DMs, reviews and social posts asking for more probiotic formulas and we are thrilled to finally be able to deliver on our customer’s requests across the entire product line,” said Karin Piscitelli, senior VP of product and marketing.
Along with the reformulation, Mother Dirt has added two new skin care kits and a new hair product to its roster.
“We at Mother Dirt believe that your skin is fundamentally amazing,” said Piscitelli. “ What we have found is that it is actually traditional skin care that has adversely affected the skin’s natural microbiome and stripped it of the powerful bacteria that keeps the peace and allows it to thrive. This presents itself in the form of dryness, oiliness, breakouts and everything in between. Our latest kits are scientifically based to restore the complex ecosystem of your skin. Just like nature intended.”
The PeaceKeeper features a trio of products that repair the damage caused by traditional skin care and rebalance the skin biome. When used together, the probiotic extracts in the Probiotic Foaming Cleanser and Probiotic Moisturizing Serum prime skin so the live and active AO+ Restorative Mist can nourish and restore, said the company.
The Difference treats acne by repairing the damage caused by traditional skin care to rebalance the biome and clarify skin. When used together, the probiotic extracts in the Probiotic Foaming Cleanser and the new Daily Acne Treatment Lotion prime skin so the live and active AO+ Restorative Mist can fully nourish and restore.
In addition, Mother Dirt launched Probiotic Hydrating Conditioner to complement its reformulated Probiotic Hydrating Hair Wash. “That’s why we have not put it in our products yet. It is too new to know much about it, and much more research and studies need to be done on them for the benefits of skin, we also need to find out what potential side effects there are as well if any,” she insisted.
“We try and only incorporate ingredients which enough studies have been conducted on them that demonstrated successful results with each study. Too many companies are eager to just put the newest and hottest ingredient in their products, in order to fulfill the temporary hype and demand without knowing everything about that ingredient or having enough studies to back it.”
In contrast, Petrillo predicts that mandelic acid (an AHA) and polyhydroxy acids (PHAs) will continue to get more attention from formulators as they offer a safer approach for more sensitive skin types and those who are prone to acne and breakouts, one of the largest categories of skin concerns. He acknowledged that neither material is new, but noted that mandelic acid gives very positive benefits for those who are prone to breakouts much like salicylic acid (BHA), but is a less harsh alternative to salicylic without drying skin.
“PHAs have a larger molecular formula, so they are not able to penetrate quite as aggressively as an AHA or BHA, so it makes it ideal for those with sensitive skin such as rosacea, eczema, or dry or itchy skin types,” he added.
Strivectin’s new Lactic Acid Nightly Retexturizing Serum is said to be different than other AHA formulas, since lactic acid has the ability to improve natural moisturizing factors while gently resurfacing dull, dry skin. According to Strivectin, the formula also contains blue cypress oil to sooth dry skin and impart a natural blue color, Nonapeptide-1 which improves skin radiance and luminosity, sustainably sourced hibiscus extract which functions like an AHA to gently resurface skin and the aforementioned NIA-114. The vegan serum is formulated for nightly use and is clinically proven to be gentle.
But not every sensitive skin issue requires novel materials. According to Dermatologist Shari Sperling, founder of Sperling Dermatology, the most effective prescription ingredients for eczema are topical cortisone creams or ointments help to reduce inflammation, relieve itch and redness, and improve the appearance of the skin. However, to alleviate symptoms, she advises her patients to use a thick moisturizer like Aquaphor or Vanicream and apply it multiple times a day.
“I love CeraVe moisturizer and Vanicream products—they come as cream, ointment and soap,” explained Sperling. “Eucerin is also a good thick moisturizer... I also love Aquaphor.”
She also suggests to her patients that they look for moisturizers with ceramides to help restore the skin barrier, use gentle soaps such as Dove, and avoid fragrances in creams and laundry products.
“Look for ‘fragrance-free’ versions such as Tide-free or All-free,” she advised.
Nearly a year into a lockdown, all of us are a little sensitive these days.
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Novel ingredients and test methods were on (virtual) display at the 31st Congress of the International Federation of Societies of Cosmetic Chemists (IFSCC). The Congress featured 436 presentations, including 69 podium presentations and 367 posters. Near the conclusion of the Congress, several awards were presented for best papers and posters. “The competition was very tight and the quality of the presentations was very high,” observed Dr. Frédéric Leroy, chair, IFSCC Scientific Committee. “This Congress was of exceptional scientific level and, despite the rapid transformation into a virtual web Congress, all the speakers managed to provide videos and presentations of superior quality. This overall high quality made the task of both the scientific committee of Society of Cosmetic Chemists of Japan and of the IFSCC award committee extremely difficult.” The winners are:
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