Melissa Meisel, Associate Editor04.01.21
Now more than ever, consumers might want to treat themselves to a new fragrance. While it may not be as essential as a serum that targets maskne or a hand sanitizer to clean up after an outing, fine fragrances can boost mood, target enjoyable memories or even add a touch of glamour to sweatpants-and-slippers ensembles. As with all industries right now, the landscape has changed in the past year and marketers are adapting to the needs of The New Normal.
According to Linda G. Levy, president, The Fragrance Foundation, the pandemic has had a major impact on the fragrance industry.
“The fragrance category is seeing strong sales in specific areas—specifically fragrance EDPs, and the home category including candles, diffusers, hand sanitizers and self-care fragrances,” she told Happi. “As many people spend more time at home, they are benefiting from wearing personal fragrances, enhancing their at-home offices while differentiating personal spaces with different scents, and spending more time sanitizing and indulging in at-home spa experiences.”
Levy added that consumers are wearing their signature fragrances while some are also expanding their fragrance collections—seeking scents they know and love to bring a sense of calm and happiness into their lives, and evoke their favorite memories of places or people.
“Escapism and transportive fragrances are key right now, as consumers seek mental escapes during this time—creating the feeling and memories of destinations visited in the past or those they long for now: at the beach, the spa or a place of relaxation,” she said.
As musician Billie Eilish told The New York Times in February, an essential item for her is “anything scented.” She explained: “I have probably 100 perfumes, and I label the bottles with little pieces of paper so I can remember what they smell like to me. Some are very specific, like, ‘This one smells like a ballet class I used to be in,’ or ‘This one smells like that one day we went to this person’s house and this person said this,’ and some are more vague, like, ‘This Hawaiian Punch perfume I got at CVS for $1 smells like 2015,’ the whole year. Some are so strong that I can’t smell them at all anymore because I get overwhelmed with the memory.”
During the the past year, homebound consumers looked for fragrances that scented their spaces rather than their wrists. Sue Phillips, CEO of Scenterprises Inc., New York, noted that candles and room sprays became more popular in the past year and grew faster than fine fragrances, which are usually associated with socializing, dressing up and going out.
“People stayed home, didn’t get dressed up, and therefore didn’t feel the need to wear fragrance. However, the need for comfort and pampering increased,” said Phillips, whose long-awaited book, The Power of Perfume: How to Choose It, Wear it and Enjoy It! (Central Park South Publishing Company; $19.95) is now available on Amazon and at www.suephillips.com.
Ashley Arbuckle Nadon, vice president of brand marketing and wholesale at L’Occitane en Provence, New York, NY, agreed that given the impact of COVID-19 and stay at home orders, customers are seeking ways to ignite happiness and be virtually transported to a new place or location through their fragrance rituals.
“They’re looking for unique and distinctive fragrances that provide long-lasting scents to elevate their mood. At L’Occitane, our lavender ranges had exceptionally strong growth in 2020—driven by the desire for self-care at home both through fragrances, ancillaries and body products like foaming bath, hand cream and home perfume,” she said.
Declines in Mass Fragrances, Pockets of Growth in Prestige Fragrances
According to data from Information Resources Inc. (IRI), women’s fragrance sales fell 3.7% to $619.8 million in US supermarkets, drugstores, mass market retailers, military commissaries and select club and dollar retail chains for the 52 weeks ended Jan. 24. 2021. In this category, perfumes and colognes/body powder slipped 3.1% to $432.5 million. Women’s gift packs fell 4.8% to $187.3 million and men’s gift packs/sets slipped 18.5% to $160.2 million. Shaving lotion/men’s fragrance decreased 11.7% to $608.1 million while shaving lotion/cologne/talc sales fell 9.0% to $447.9 million.
As reported in 2020, home fragrance products were on the rise. For the 52 weeks ended July 12, 2020, candle sales rose 16.9% to $1.59 billion at US multi-outlets (grocery, drug, mass market, military and select club and dollar retailers) and home air freshener sales jumped 9.6% to $2.31 billion, according to data from Information Resources, Inc. Further, there was a 7.3% gain in potpourri/sachet sales and another 7.5% rise in electronic fragrance dispensers.
US prestige beauty sales fell as well; the sector generated sales of $16.1 billion in 2020, a 19% decline compared to the year prior, according to The NPD Group. The fragrance category dipped 8%, according to the report. But, there is good news! Fragrance, while down for the year, declined at the slowest rate in the prestige beauty category, as it was helped along by a second half rebound in fragrance sales, according to the Port Washington, NY-based market research company. Although the brick-and-mortar channel remained challenged, the rate of decline decelerated to a great extent during the second half of the year, allowing the accelerated online growth to offset that loss, according to NPD.
In terms of the bright spots, NPD said parfum sales grew double digits. In addition, home scents, which had been on the uptick for the past few years, saw accelerated growth in 2020 as consumers brought the meaning of comforts of home to another level.
New & Improved Fragrances
Marketers hopeful that 2021 will be a better year overall, are churning out new fragrance creations for the upcoming season. New from Estée Lauder is an expansion of its Beautiful fragrance collection. Beautiful Magnolia is a fragrance inspired by the emotional rush of an unfolding love story, according to the company. A lively green floral fragrance, Beautiful Magnolia is said to bloom like the magnolia flower, a symbol of strength and loyalty in love. Additional notes include the nectar-like scent of magnolia oil, which is paired with gardenia and Turkish rose, as well as cedarwood, sandalwood and illumina musk, which add warmth and richness.
A timely product tapping into the self-care demand of recent times is Beautiful Magnolia Nourishing Hand Cream, which has a hint of the Beautiful Magnolia scent. The quick-absorbing, non-greasy, emollient formula soothes dry skin to keep hands looking and feeling smooth, soft and silky. This cream incorporates glycerin and other moisture-boosting ingredients to improve moisture immediately by 75% and helps restore the skin’s moisture barrier, said the company.
Tapping into Trends
Coty has a variety of spring and summer fragrance launches with line expansions and debuts. Capturing the airy essence of nature and the innocence of spring, the Daisy Marc Jacobs Spring Limited Editions are a seasonal twist on the classic Daisy fragrances. Each fragrance features an unexpected green ingredient with a feminine burst of pink, creating a delicate yet refreshing balance that transports you to an idyllic world of blooming daises and lush greenery, according to Coty.
Daisy Marc Jacobs Spring Limited Edition features pink rosebuds and rosewoods blossom to create “a fresh feeling of elegance,” while green cardamom adds a spicy texture. Daisy Marc Jacobs Eau So Fresh Spring Limited Edition features green tea blossom and matcha complemented by a bright burst of pink pepper. Finally, Daisy Love Marc Jacobs Spring Limited Edition includes notes of pink peony, fig and fig milk.
Tiffany & Co.’s new signature fragrance, created by Master Perfumer Daniela Andrier of Givaudan, is a sparkling floral musk. The scent opens with vibrant top notes of vert de mandarine. At the heart, iris flower is the hero ingredient. The glass flacon of the Tiffany & Co. fragrance takes its inspiration from the house’s most iconic diamond cuts. The elaborate faceting work at the base recalls the 128.54-carat Tiffany Diamond—while the pure geometric lines of the shoulders mirror the house’s Lucida-cut diamond engagement ring. A hint of Tiffany Blue accents the collar in the house’s signature T pattern. Disguised under the cap is a metal plaque engraved with the Tiffany & Co. mark. Inside, the juice, with the slightest tint of blue, illuminates the precise cuts of the bottle. Like all of the jeweler’s creations, the fragrance is presented in the signature Tiffany Blue Box.
As summer 2021 approaches, Escada invites girls everywhere to immerse themselves in the spirit of an unforgettable escape with its new limited edition Summer Festival eau de toilette. The fresh, floral and feminine scent opens with a sparkling accord of cherry blossom encapsulated in ice cubes, has a heart of natural green mandarin and delicate jasmine petals, and a base of sandalwood.
Evoking the duality of a summer’s day, Calvin Klein Eternity Summer for Women encapsulates the serenity and light at the point where the sky meets water on an infinite horizon, said the brand. The fragrance opens with a romantic mix of bergamot oil, violet leaf accord and desert rose oil. These notes meet a refreshing mid of ginger, jasmine sambac and coconut water accord. The solar floral fragrance is then grounded in a base of salty musk, and vetiver oil, which captures the feeling of golden hour during sunset.
Topping the news for guys is the famous alligator logo. Lacoste’s new fragrance, L.12.12 Blanc eau de parfum for Him, plays with contrasts to adapt to the wearer, said the popular clothing brand. It has a blend of fine sparkling citrus fruits that mingle with energizing green notes. The fragrance also has woody warmth of cedar and cardamom contrasting against the freshness of eucalyptus.
Leading in the gender-free category at Coty is CK One Summer. This new iteration is billed as an explosion of colorful freshness. The iconic CK One bottle has been reinvented in a hyper-saturated design with vibrant shades of blue and green on the bottle that convey a refreshing cool splash. The rare citrus blend of a lemon and orange hybrid is bitter yet sweet; the vibrancy of rhubarb delivers a nostalgic refreshment; a freshwater accord delivers sparkling vitality; and luscious peach skin lends a modern sweetness.
Also gender-free is a classic dating back to 1921. Gucci The Alchemist’s Garden eau de parfum 1921 is a big launch for spring at Coty as Gucci marks its 100th anniversary. Taking the number of eaux de parfum in the collection from 10 to 11, 1921 continues the story of magic and imagination created by Master Perfumer Alberto Morillas and Gucci Creative Director Alessandro Michele. Created around the distinctive neroli flower, whose greenness blends effortlessly with a note limone cedrato. Oakmoss provides an earthy, lush forest-like quality creating a genderless fragrance perfectly suited for all seasons, according to Gucci. It rolls out in June at Saks Fifth Avenue.
InterParfums is also rolling out a unique option with its newest fashion brand, MCM. The genderless namesake fragrance debuts in MCM stores in the spring which will be followed by a broader international rollout.
Other Leading Launches
According to Levy of The Fragrance Foundation, the most popular scents for Spring and Summer 2021 are varied on the scent spectrum right now.
“New or classic, more intense fragrances/EDPs are attractive to consumers right now as fragrance is the invisible accessory while fashion is often more casual,” she told Happi. “Some consumers are turning to classics, and others are enjoying new launches of fragrances. Many floral and fruity new scents are debuting with the optimism of springtime, and these are attracting consumers for immediate enjoyment.”
After a year like no other in 2020, Lancôme says it has cultivated a vision of happiness with the latest version of its iconic fragrance, La Vie est Belle Soleil Cristal. A trail of solar notes, La Vie est Belle Soleil Cristal lights up and illuminates the original fragrance to shine even brighter—like sunshine in a bottle, according to the brand. At the heart of the composition is a trio of sweet white flowers—jasmine, orange blossom, and ylang ylang—married to a solar coconut accord. This warm, sensual and evocative accord contrasts with bergamot and mandarin, which bring an immediate and sparkling sense of freshness to the perfume. The duo of iris and patchouli, the iconic signature of La Vie est Belle, is paired with vanilla.
The newest star in the Mugler Fragrances universe is Angel Nova, a scent that comes almost 30 years after the creation of the cult-favorite Angel perfume—the juice that paved the way for gourmand fragrances. The new fruity, floral and woody eau de parfum was created from the fusion of a fruity scent, an exclusive Mugler rose and powerful, modern wood. It elevates the floral aromas of the original Angel and infuses it with new notes of raspberry and lychee to boost the fruity levels—plus a floral heart composed of “supernatural” damask rose, patchouli and benzoin, said the brand.
A first for Mugler, Angel Nova is made using upcycling—an innovative and eco-friendly process that entails a natural rose being first extracted and then enhanced by reusing the already-distilled rose petals to give birth to a sustainably-sourced “supernatural rose” ingredient created via biotechnology. The star-shaped, raspberry-pink hued Angel Nova bottle is refillable, furthering the brand’s commitment to making eco-friendly choices where possible.
Oscar de la Renta has introduced Alibi eau de parfum, the first fragrance designed for the house by Co-Creative Directors Fernando Garcia and Laura Kim. This new venture was driven by the same attention to detail and craftsmanship found in Oscar de la Renta’s Alibi handbag, which serves as inspiration for the bottle design. The structured silhouette of the bottle is accented with a reimagined gold clasp drawn from the iconic handbag. The feminine blush color of the parfum provides an elegant contrast to the strong design elements.
“Our vision for the Alibi fragrance was to express the evolution of the Oscar de la Renta woman, and the duality of her modern femininity; chic and sensual yet empowered,” remarked Kim. “The world evolves, and Oscar always told us to evolve with it.”
For the scent, Takasago Senior Perfumer Catherine Selig wanted to create “a captivating duality of free spirited floralcy contrasted with feminine sensuality.”
The fragrance opens with a fresh citrus accord of mandarin and ginger blossom, creating an immediate sense of intrigue. At the heart of the fragrance, is vanilla orchid and heliotrope. Musk, praline and amberwood combine at the base.
Out-of- the-Box Thinking
Innovators are getting creative for Spring 2021 fragrance. For example, Dolly Parton and Edge Beauty, Inc. have inked a long-term license agreement for the creation, development and distribution of a signature fragrance.
Also, a new concept for fragrance has arrived at Target. Mix:Bar offers a new way of self-expression through fragrance, with scents for every mood, attitude or occasion, according to the retailer. Mix:Bar is available in seven scents—Tangerine Squeeze, Coconut Palm, Glass Rose, Vanilla Bourbon, Cloud Musk, Wood Elixir and Blackberry Tonic—as an eau de parfum, body mist, brush-on pen or “discovery set” of all five fragrances to sample. The fragrances can be worn alone but become even more beautiful when layered and cocktailed together. And in a nod to overkill everywhere, the fragrances are promoted as free from parabens and phthalates, and are vegan and cruelty-free.
Also in mass, P&G is bulking up its Old Spice portfolio with a variety of new scent stories for Spring 2021. With notes of leather and spice, Dynasty is a modern masculine fragrance with deep tonka and amber essence at the core, punctuated by dry leather and warm cardamom and black pepper notes. With notes of citrus and blue kelp, Sea Spray is a crisp fragrance with fresh top notes of clean laundry and watery citrus, finished on a bed of wood and moss notes. And, with notes of cognac and black cherry, Royalty is described as a boozy fragrance with a twist of orange peel finished with oak notes.
Old Spice isn’t the only old formula with new variants. For the first time since 1978, Ralph Lauren Fragrances reimagined the iconic Polo scent with the introduction of Polo Cologne Intense. Described as a new Polo fragrance for a new generation, this “intense” men’s fragrance is billed as a multifaceted scent that includes a bold blend of fresh grapefruit and cooling sage, balanced with the signature smooth tones of intense patchouli. It rolls out in April.
Finally, don’t forget sweet treats for Mother’s Day gifting! Serendipity 3, home of the famous frozen hot chocolate, is still selling its chocolate perfume, Serendipitous, to many patrons although the famed New York City restaurant was shuttered during COVID. Serendipitous has notes of cocoa, Tahitian vanilla and blood orange—sophisticated enough to satisfy one’s grown-up side, but delicious enough to bring out your inner child, all with no calories!
“Ingredients that are associated with comfort, feeling good and pampering usually have a relationship to food and home activities such as cooking and relaxation, so I believe that consumers are looking for fragrances that have feel-good ingredients,” said Phillips of Scenterprises. “This is usually associated with edible, gourmand food notes such as vanilla, chocolate or smooth, warm, mulled spice notes, all which offer positive, pampering, self-love and relaxation which is usually associated with lavender ingredients.”
The Nose Knows Best
As consumers re-ignite their desire to shop for fragrance, online smart sampling will be even more critical to discovery, observed Ashley Arbuckle Nadon of L’Occitane en Provence. These sampling programs could include opportunities with brand wholesale partners, sampling initiatives on L’Occitane’s digital channels and strategic subscription service partners, as seen at the company.
The home category will continue to grow and personal fragrances will remain as a beauty accessory, as consumers have made these products a part of their daily routine and lifestyle, noted Levy of The Fragrance Foundation.
“Escapism, wellness and sustainability are three other major pillars that will continue and be a major part of the fragrance industry,” she added.
Overall, the effects of the pandemic will be long-lasting in terms of consumers wanting pampering, self-love, building confidence and reflecting one’s individuality. As a result, fragrance marketers should expand their scope within the company and as a brand itself, industry experts said.
According to Phillips, while the niche category and customization will continue to grow, “ingredients will be the new metrics as opposed to celebrity and designer fragrance brands which have been in decline for several years.”
Phillips contends “brands that develop fragrances with the positioning of service to the community, knowledge, expertise and offering consumers dreams and goals, positivity and confidence, as well a component of altruism—giving back authentically, and not just jumping on the ‘giving back’ platform. Authenticity, altruism and expertise will be the new metrics that consumers will gravitate towards and smaller niche companies can pivot much quicker than big brands can.”
According to Linda G. Levy, president, The Fragrance Foundation, the pandemic has had a major impact on the fragrance industry.
“The fragrance category is seeing strong sales in specific areas—specifically fragrance EDPs, and the home category including candles, diffusers, hand sanitizers and self-care fragrances,” she told Happi. “As many people spend more time at home, they are benefiting from wearing personal fragrances, enhancing their at-home offices while differentiating personal spaces with different scents, and spending more time sanitizing and indulging in at-home spa experiences.”
Levy added that consumers are wearing their signature fragrances while some are also expanding their fragrance collections—seeking scents they know and love to bring a sense of calm and happiness into their lives, and evoke their favorite memories of places or people.
“Escapism and transportive fragrances are key right now, as consumers seek mental escapes during this time—creating the feeling and memories of destinations visited in the past or those they long for now: at the beach, the spa or a place of relaxation,” she said.
As musician Billie Eilish told The New York Times in February, an essential item for her is “anything scented.” She explained: “I have probably 100 perfumes, and I label the bottles with little pieces of paper so I can remember what they smell like to me. Some are very specific, like, ‘This one smells like a ballet class I used to be in,’ or ‘This one smells like that one day we went to this person’s house and this person said this,’ and some are more vague, like, ‘This Hawaiian Punch perfume I got at CVS for $1 smells like 2015,’ the whole year. Some are so strong that I can’t smell them at all anymore because I get overwhelmed with the memory.”
During the the past year, homebound consumers looked for fragrances that scented their spaces rather than their wrists. Sue Phillips, CEO of Scenterprises Inc., New York, noted that candles and room sprays became more popular in the past year and grew faster than fine fragrances, which are usually associated with socializing, dressing up and going out.
“People stayed home, didn’t get dressed up, and therefore didn’t feel the need to wear fragrance. However, the need for comfort and pampering increased,” said Phillips, whose long-awaited book, The Power of Perfume: How to Choose It, Wear it and Enjoy It! (Central Park South Publishing Company; $19.95) is now available on Amazon and at www.suephillips.com.
Ashley Arbuckle Nadon, vice president of brand marketing and wholesale at L’Occitane en Provence, New York, NY, agreed that given the impact of COVID-19 and stay at home orders, customers are seeking ways to ignite happiness and be virtually transported to a new place or location through their fragrance rituals.
“They’re looking for unique and distinctive fragrances that provide long-lasting scents to elevate their mood. At L’Occitane, our lavender ranges had exceptionally strong growth in 2020—driven by the desire for self-care at home both through fragrances, ancillaries and body products like foaming bath, hand cream and home perfume,” she said.
Declines in Mass Fragrances, Pockets of Growth in Prestige Fragrances
According to data from Information Resources Inc. (IRI), women’s fragrance sales fell 3.7% to $619.8 million in US supermarkets, drugstores, mass market retailers, military commissaries and select club and dollar retail chains for the 52 weeks ended Jan. 24. 2021. In this category, perfumes and colognes/body powder slipped 3.1% to $432.5 million. Women’s gift packs fell 4.8% to $187.3 million and men’s gift packs/sets slipped 18.5% to $160.2 million. Shaving lotion/men’s fragrance decreased 11.7% to $608.1 million while shaving lotion/cologne/talc sales fell 9.0% to $447.9 million.
As reported in 2020, home fragrance products were on the rise. For the 52 weeks ended July 12, 2020, candle sales rose 16.9% to $1.59 billion at US multi-outlets (grocery, drug, mass market, military and select club and dollar retailers) and home air freshener sales jumped 9.6% to $2.31 billion, according to data from Information Resources, Inc. Further, there was a 7.3% gain in potpourri/sachet sales and another 7.5% rise in electronic fragrance dispensers.
US prestige beauty sales fell as well; the sector generated sales of $16.1 billion in 2020, a 19% decline compared to the year prior, according to The NPD Group. The fragrance category dipped 8%, according to the report. But, there is good news! Fragrance, while down for the year, declined at the slowest rate in the prestige beauty category, as it was helped along by a second half rebound in fragrance sales, according to the Port Washington, NY-based market research company. Although the brick-and-mortar channel remained challenged, the rate of decline decelerated to a great extent during the second half of the year, allowing the accelerated online growth to offset that loss, according to NPD.
In terms of the bright spots, NPD said parfum sales grew double digits. In addition, home scents, which had been on the uptick for the past few years, saw accelerated growth in 2020 as consumers brought the meaning of comforts of home to another level.
New & Improved Fragrances
Marketers hopeful that 2021 will be a better year overall, are churning out new fragrance creations for the upcoming season. New from Estée Lauder is an expansion of its Beautiful fragrance collection. Beautiful Magnolia is a fragrance inspired by the emotional rush of an unfolding love story, according to the company. A lively green floral fragrance, Beautiful Magnolia is said to bloom like the magnolia flower, a symbol of strength and loyalty in love. Additional notes include the nectar-like scent of magnolia oil, which is paired with gardenia and Turkish rose, as well as cedarwood, sandalwood and illumina musk, which add warmth and richness.
A timely product tapping into the self-care demand of recent times is Beautiful Magnolia Nourishing Hand Cream, which has a hint of the Beautiful Magnolia scent. The quick-absorbing, non-greasy, emollient formula soothes dry skin to keep hands looking and feeling smooth, soft and silky. This cream incorporates glycerin and other moisture-boosting ingredients to improve moisture immediately by 75% and helps restore the skin’s moisture barrier, said the company.
Tapping into Trends
Coty has a variety of spring and summer fragrance launches with line expansions and debuts. Capturing the airy essence of nature and the innocence of spring, the Daisy Marc Jacobs Spring Limited Editions are a seasonal twist on the classic Daisy fragrances. Each fragrance features an unexpected green ingredient with a feminine burst of pink, creating a delicate yet refreshing balance that transports you to an idyllic world of blooming daises and lush greenery, according to Coty.
Daisy Marc Jacobs Spring Limited Edition features pink rosebuds and rosewoods blossom to create “a fresh feeling of elegance,” while green cardamom adds a spicy texture. Daisy Marc Jacobs Eau So Fresh Spring Limited Edition features green tea blossom and matcha complemented by a bright burst of pink pepper. Finally, Daisy Love Marc Jacobs Spring Limited Edition includes notes of pink peony, fig and fig milk.
Tiffany & Co.’s new signature fragrance, created by Master Perfumer Daniela Andrier of Givaudan, is a sparkling floral musk. The scent opens with vibrant top notes of vert de mandarine. At the heart, iris flower is the hero ingredient. The glass flacon of the Tiffany & Co. fragrance takes its inspiration from the house’s most iconic diamond cuts. The elaborate faceting work at the base recalls the 128.54-carat Tiffany Diamond—while the pure geometric lines of the shoulders mirror the house’s Lucida-cut diamond engagement ring. A hint of Tiffany Blue accents the collar in the house’s signature T pattern. Disguised under the cap is a metal plaque engraved with the Tiffany & Co. mark. Inside, the juice, with the slightest tint of blue, illuminates the precise cuts of the bottle. Like all of the jeweler’s creations, the fragrance is presented in the signature Tiffany Blue Box.
As summer 2021 approaches, Escada invites girls everywhere to immerse themselves in the spirit of an unforgettable escape with its new limited edition Summer Festival eau de toilette. The fresh, floral and feminine scent opens with a sparkling accord of cherry blossom encapsulated in ice cubes, has a heart of natural green mandarin and delicate jasmine petals, and a base of sandalwood.
Evoking the duality of a summer’s day, Calvin Klein Eternity Summer for Women encapsulates the serenity and light at the point where the sky meets water on an infinite horizon, said the brand. The fragrance opens with a romantic mix of bergamot oil, violet leaf accord and desert rose oil. These notes meet a refreshing mid of ginger, jasmine sambac and coconut water accord. The solar floral fragrance is then grounded in a base of salty musk, and vetiver oil, which captures the feeling of golden hour during sunset.
Topping the news for guys is the famous alligator logo. Lacoste’s new fragrance, L.12.12 Blanc eau de parfum for Him, plays with contrasts to adapt to the wearer, said the popular clothing brand. It has a blend of fine sparkling citrus fruits that mingle with energizing green notes. The fragrance also has woody warmth of cedar and cardamom contrasting against the freshness of eucalyptus.
Leading in the gender-free category at Coty is CK One Summer. This new iteration is billed as an explosion of colorful freshness. The iconic CK One bottle has been reinvented in a hyper-saturated design with vibrant shades of blue and green on the bottle that convey a refreshing cool splash. The rare citrus blend of a lemon and orange hybrid is bitter yet sweet; the vibrancy of rhubarb delivers a nostalgic refreshment; a freshwater accord delivers sparkling vitality; and luscious peach skin lends a modern sweetness.
Also gender-free is a classic dating back to 1921. Gucci The Alchemist’s Garden eau de parfum 1921 is a big launch for spring at Coty as Gucci marks its 100th anniversary. Taking the number of eaux de parfum in the collection from 10 to 11, 1921 continues the story of magic and imagination created by Master Perfumer Alberto Morillas and Gucci Creative Director Alessandro Michele. Created around the distinctive neroli flower, whose greenness blends effortlessly with a note limone cedrato. Oakmoss provides an earthy, lush forest-like quality creating a genderless fragrance perfectly suited for all seasons, according to Gucci. It rolls out in June at Saks Fifth Avenue.
InterParfums is also rolling out a unique option with its newest fashion brand, MCM. The genderless namesake fragrance debuts in MCM stores in the spring which will be followed by a broader international rollout.
Other Leading Launches
According to Levy of The Fragrance Foundation, the most popular scents for Spring and Summer 2021 are varied on the scent spectrum right now.
“New or classic, more intense fragrances/EDPs are attractive to consumers right now as fragrance is the invisible accessory while fashion is often more casual,” she told Happi. “Some consumers are turning to classics, and others are enjoying new launches of fragrances. Many floral and fruity new scents are debuting with the optimism of springtime, and these are attracting consumers for immediate enjoyment.”
After a year like no other in 2020, Lancôme says it has cultivated a vision of happiness with the latest version of its iconic fragrance, La Vie est Belle Soleil Cristal. A trail of solar notes, La Vie est Belle Soleil Cristal lights up and illuminates the original fragrance to shine even brighter—like sunshine in a bottle, according to the brand. At the heart of the composition is a trio of sweet white flowers—jasmine, orange blossom, and ylang ylang—married to a solar coconut accord. This warm, sensual and evocative accord contrasts with bergamot and mandarin, which bring an immediate and sparkling sense of freshness to the perfume. The duo of iris and patchouli, the iconic signature of La Vie est Belle, is paired with vanilla.
The newest star in the Mugler Fragrances universe is Angel Nova, a scent that comes almost 30 years after the creation of the cult-favorite Angel perfume—the juice that paved the way for gourmand fragrances. The new fruity, floral and woody eau de parfum was created from the fusion of a fruity scent, an exclusive Mugler rose and powerful, modern wood. It elevates the floral aromas of the original Angel and infuses it with new notes of raspberry and lychee to boost the fruity levels—plus a floral heart composed of “supernatural” damask rose, patchouli and benzoin, said the brand.
A first for Mugler, Angel Nova is made using upcycling—an innovative and eco-friendly process that entails a natural rose being first extracted and then enhanced by reusing the already-distilled rose petals to give birth to a sustainably-sourced “supernatural rose” ingredient created via biotechnology. The star-shaped, raspberry-pink hued Angel Nova bottle is refillable, furthering the brand’s commitment to making eco-friendly choices where possible.
Oscar de la Renta has introduced Alibi eau de parfum, the first fragrance designed for the house by Co-Creative Directors Fernando Garcia and Laura Kim. This new venture was driven by the same attention to detail and craftsmanship found in Oscar de la Renta’s Alibi handbag, which serves as inspiration for the bottle design. The structured silhouette of the bottle is accented with a reimagined gold clasp drawn from the iconic handbag. The feminine blush color of the parfum provides an elegant contrast to the strong design elements.
“Our vision for the Alibi fragrance was to express the evolution of the Oscar de la Renta woman, and the duality of her modern femininity; chic and sensual yet empowered,” remarked Kim. “The world evolves, and Oscar always told us to evolve with it.”
For the scent, Takasago Senior Perfumer Catherine Selig wanted to create “a captivating duality of free spirited floralcy contrasted with feminine sensuality.”
The fragrance opens with a fresh citrus accord of mandarin and ginger blossom, creating an immediate sense of intrigue. At the heart of the fragrance, is vanilla orchid and heliotrope. Musk, praline and amberwood combine at the base.
Out-of- the-Box Thinking
Innovators are getting creative for Spring 2021 fragrance. For example, Dolly Parton and Edge Beauty, Inc. have inked a long-term license agreement for the creation, development and distribution of a signature fragrance.
Also, a new concept for fragrance has arrived at Target. Mix:Bar offers a new way of self-expression through fragrance, with scents for every mood, attitude or occasion, according to the retailer. Mix:Bar is available in seven scents—Tangerine Squeeze, Coconut Palm, Glass Rose, Vanilla Bourbon, Cloud Musk, Wood Elixir and Blackberry Tonic—as an eau de parfum, body mist, brush-on pen or “discovery set” of all five fragrances to sample. The fragrances can be worn alone but become even more beautiful when layered and cocktailed together. And in a nod to overkill everywhere, the fragrances are promoted as free from parabens and phthalates, and are vegan and cruelty-free.
Also in mass, P&G is bulking up its Old Spice portfolio with a variety of new scent stories for Spring 2021. With notes of leather and spice, Dynasty is a modern masculine fragrance with deep tonka and amber essence at the core, punctuated by dry leather and warm cardamom and black pepper notes. With notes of citrus and blue kelp, Sea Spray is a crisp fragrance with fresh top notes of clean laundry and watery citrus, finished on a bed of wood and moss notes. And, with notes of cognac and black cherry, Royalty is described as a boozy fragrance with a twist of orange peel finished with oak notes.
Old Spice isn’t the only old formula with new variants. For the first time since 1978, Ralph Lauren Fragrances reimagined the iconic Polo scent with the introduction of Polo Cologne Intense. Described as a new Polo fragrance for a new generation, this “intense” men’s fragrance is billed as a multifaceted scent that includes a bold blend of fresh grapefruit and cooling sage, balanced with the signature smooth tones of intense patchouli. It rolls out in April.
Finally, don’t forget sweet treats for Mother’s Day gifting! Serendipity 3, home of the famous frozen hot chocolate, is still selling its chocolate perfume, Serendipitous, to many patrons although the famed New York City restaurant was shuttered during COVID. Serendipitous has notes of cocoa, Tahitian vanilla and blood orange—sophisticated enough to satisfy one’s grown-up side, but delicious enough to bring out your inner child, all with no calories!
“Ingredients that are associated with comfort, feeling good and pampering usually have a relationship to food and home activities such as cooking and relaxation, so I believe that consumers are looking for fragrances that have feel-good ingredients,” said Phillips of Scenterprises. “This is usually associated with edible, gourmand food notes such as vanilla, chocolate or smooth, warm, mulled spice notes, all which offer positive, pampering, self-love and relaxation which is usually associated with lavender ingredients.”
The Nose Knows Best
As consumers re-ignite their desire to shop for fragrance, online smart sampling will be even more critical to discovery, observed Ashley Arbuckle Nadon of L’Occitane en Provence. These sampling programs could include opportunities with brand wholesale partners, sampling initiatives on L’Occitane’s digital channels and strategic subscription service partners, as seen at the company.
The home category will continue to grow and personal fragrances will remain as a beauty accessory, as consumers have made these products a part of their daily routine and lifestyle, noted Levy of The Fragrance Foundation.
“Escapism, wellness and sustainability are three other major pillars that will continue and be a major part of the fragrance industry,” she added.
Overall, the effects of the pandemic will be long-lasting in terms of consumers wanting pampering, self-love, building confidence and reflecting one’s individuality. As a result, fragrance marketers should expand their scope within the company and as a brand itself, industry experts said.
According to Phillips, while the niche category and customization will continue to grow, “ingredients will be the new metrics as opposed to celebrity and designer fragrance brands which have been in decline for several years.”
Phillips contends “brands that develop fragrances with the positioning of service to the community, knowledge, expertise and offering consumers dreams and goals, positivity and confidence, as well a component of altruism—giving back authentically, and not just jumping on the ‘giving back’ platform. Authenticity, altruism and expertise will be the new metrics that consumers will gravitate towards and smaller niche companies can pivot much quicker than big brands can.”
