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Sponges are just one type of exfoliating device. |
By Navin M. Geria
VP-R&D
SpaDermaceuticals
Some dermatologists advise their patients to restrict daily skin care regimens to three or four products. Still, most people use too many products at once. The skin picks up environmental debris during the day, which gets covered by occlusive creams. The end result is clogged pores that, in time, get larger and lead to skin inflammation, irritation, whiteheads and blackheads. The build-up of dead surface cells makes skin look dull, dry and flaky, causing it to reflect light poorly. This effect makes skin appear lifeless.
Exfoliating skin care products breakdown and eliminate keratinized cells and restore a healthy translucent glow to the skin. Achieving this glow often requires a thorough scrubbing with a loofah. Exfoliation should be attempted when there are visible changes in skin texture. This happens because the cell turnover slows down over time and using products with exfoliants provide beneficial results. Body exfoliation has several major health benefits—it stimulates blood flow, increases circulation and sloughs off dead skin cells. To keep skin looking good, exfoliate at least once a week with physical scrubs or chemical washes. Good exfoliation brightens and smoothes skin surface, shrinks pores and prevents breakouts and stimulates replacement of these dead cells with newer cells. There are two broad classes of exfoliants, physical and chemical. Here are short reviews of all these methods.
Physical & Chemical Exfoliants
Natural exfoliants have been around for centuries. Exfoliating ingredients range from very abrasive, potentially irritating ingredients such as apricot or walnut kernel and pumice, to gentle exfoliants like jojoba beads, nylon puffs, coarse bath salts and synthetic microbeads. They all are usually fine granular particles that gently scratch the skin surface to remove dead cells. It is important to use them with caution. They should not be rubbed too vigorously on delicate areas such as under eyes. They should be used very carefully on severe acne. For the skin areas with hardened calluses such as elbows, knees or feet, a vigorous use of pumice stone accomplishes satisfactory results. There are many physical exfoliants available on the market. The sand-like granules should be kept away from the eyes, because they could easily scrape the cornea. Sometimes “natural” exfoliants can cause severe irritations or allergies. Most common allergic contact dermatitis results from skin contact with certain botanicals that release oleoresin and cause red, swollen, blistering itchy skin inflammation and irritation. If this happens, prompt relief is accomplished if the affected area is immediately washed with water. These ingredients are available as cleansing grains, gentle abrasive sponges, waxy creams, loofahs and brushes. Clay exfoliants consist of bentonite, hectorite and kaolin. They have a suctioning effect on clogged pores to dislodge compacted dead cells and tighten the appearance of pores. Often these are used for acne blemishes.
Chemical exfoliants may be broadly divided into the following five categories: AHA, BHA, enzymes, acne actives and retinoids. Here’s a closer look at each of them.
More guys are taking care of their skin via exfoliation. |
BHAs are a group of organic acids, including salicylic acid, used in the skin care products for their exfoliating and antibacterial properties. They are gentler than AHAs and are oil soluble. This oil solubility permits them to mix with sebum and exfoliate skin cell residue. This is the reason why BHAs are effective in the treatment of blackheads and blemishes.
Acne actives remove dead cells. Benzoyl peroxide, salicylic acid and sulfur resorcinol are strong exfoliants found in OTC acne products and cleansers, rinsable scrubs, soaps, creams and lotions. Their concentration is governed by the acne monograph, and work best when left on the skin for a while before rinsing.
Enzyme Power
Enzymes include papain (derived from papaya), bromelain (derived from pineapple) and pancreatin (a pancreatic enzyme derived from pork or beef processing). All of them dissolve protein in the dead cells. These enzymes are called proteolytic because they dissolve protein to exfoliate and improve skin. Enzyme based products are available as peels or powders which are reconstituted with water prior to use. Kinerase, a plant growth factor (N6-furfuryladenine), has cell turnover efficacy comparable to retinoids on the skin. It plumps plant leaves by causing the surface layer to retain water. In skin care products, it enhances cell turnover. It is available as formulated into products containing AHA and retinol. It is available in prescription and OTC strengths.
Retinoids are vitamin A derivatives also known as tretinoins. They exfoliate skin and stimulate collagen production, resulting in plumper, firmer skin to diminish the appearance of wrinkles. Because vitamin A could inhibit the skin’s healing abilities, avoid waxing, microdermabrasion and laser resurfacing.
Masks, pore cleansing strips, scrubs, sponges, puffs and washcloths, also exfoliate skin. Masks provide moisture to make wrinkles less pronounced and pores look smaller. Their cooling ingredients increase blood flow to impart a rosy glow. They are available in four basic categories: wax-based, vinyl- or rubber-based, hydrocolloid and earth-based. Wax-based masks are generally administered in salons or spas. These masks temporarily restrict trans-epidermal water loss. Vinyl-based masks are easily applied and removed. They are popular for home use. They are based on film-forming substances such as polyvinyl alcohol or vinyl acetate. They also temporarily restrict trans-epidermal water loss as long as it is in contact with the skin. Hydrocolloid masks are formulated with gums and humectants and are very popular because they are easy to incorporate specialty ingredients such as benzoyl peroxide or sulphur, which soak up oil from oily or acne-prone skin. Earth based masks, also known as mud packs, are formulated with absorbent clays such as bentonite. Kaolin clay has an astringent effect on the skin, which is further enhanced by ingredients such as salicylic acid, AHA and menthol. Pore cleansing strips contain an acrylate adhesive that is placed on oily areas. The strip is left on for few minutes and allowed to set. When removed, it pulls off follicular debris that sticks to the strip. Scrubs, sponges brushes, puffs and washcloths all exfoliate unevenly and are impossible to keep clean. Abrasive sponges such as loofahs are very irritating on the facial skin and are also very difficult to keep clean. They also get easily contaminated with bacteria that can cause infection. Facial scrubs buff away excess oil, dirt and dead skin, but they may cause irritation due to uneven sharp surfaces. Waxy creams are easy to use but they can clog the pores and leave a film on the face. Some contain harsh ingredients like alcohol or menthol which dry skin and cause irritation.
Professional Procedures
Of course, you can choose from dozens of professional treatments performed by aestheticians and dermatologists. AHA and BHA peels are administered at a spa or doctor’s office. Low concentrations of acid produce a superficial peel and high doses are used for deeper exfoliation. AHA peels using over 50% concentrations are usually administered by physicians. To obtain significant lasting results, subsequent treatments are necessary. BHA peels at concentrations of 10 to 13% at a pH of 3 are administered with satisfactory results.
Microdermabrasion uses a small amount of aluminium oxide crystals, which are swept across the face with a small hand-held vacuum, gently sloughing off dead skin cells to reveal the fresher, finer-pored skin underneath.
Lasers use a single wavelength, but light source uses multiple ones to treat the under-layer of skin, prompting it to create new collagen in order to heal. In dermaplaning, the dermatologist grazes a sharp scalpel across the face, skimming away dead cells and evening out skin’s surface, while also removing unwanted hair.
In ultrasound, skin exfoliation is accomplished through a process called cavitation, where water or gel molecules are driven by the low frequency sound waves to spin rapidly over the skin. This removes dead skin cells safely without inflammation. These ultrasound machines are available for home use and they do improve the skin appearance.
Skin really needs exfoliation. It improves all skin types. Just remember to use a gentle exfoliator daily, nothing that will remove natural oils. Exfoliation makes skin more active. But, whatever exfoliant you choose, make sure to use it very carefully—there is chance of scarring.
