Advancements in Efficacy

What's new in skin care?

Anti-aging facial creams, natural-based cleansers, beauty balms and clarifying toners make a daily appearance in most personal care routines, but with so many choices in the market, skin care SKUs need to offer more than just one benefit. Consumers want to look younger while keeping breakouts at bay, resurfacing dull textures, protecting from the elements and then some.

So, R&D teams are “keeping up with the Joneses” and churning out innovations that are nowhere short of super SKUs—skin care products that keep the customers coming back for more (and purchasing line extensions too).

Mass market skin care sales rose slightly, 1.04%, to $3.5 billion, according to IRI, a Chicago-based market research firm, for the latest 52-week period that ended Feb. 24, 2013, for total US multi-outlets (supermarkets, drugstores, mass market retailers, military commissaries and select club and dollar retail chains.

Some mass market skin care categories rose faster than others. For example depilatory sales improved 3.4% to $186 million, but facial anti-aging rose a scant 0.18% to $1.2 billion. Elsewhere, facial cleansers increased 2.9% to $962.6 million and facial moisturizers climbed 3.8% to $404.3 million. However, acne treatments fell 1.1% to $631.4 million, body anti-aging slipped 10% to $23.9 million and fade/bleach sales fell 5% to $78.6 million.

In sharp contrast, prestige skin care sales rose 10% to $3.4 billion for 2012, noted The NPD Group, Port Washington, NY. In US department stores, skin care, representing 35% of prestige beauty sales, grew 4% to $281 million for February 2013 alone.
According to Karen Grant, vice president and global beauty industry analyst at NPD, “The smaller categories are making a big impact lately. For example, besides being age specific, products such as lip balms, masks and BB creams, of course, are bubbling with activity.”

Grant added that all across the board, prestige skin care is seeing gains from advancements in technology and ingredients too.
“The consumer may shop less frequently, but she isn’t trading down on price—higher levels of service and/or premium ingredients are key players,” she told Happi.

Cutting-Edge Components
Industry insiders concur that suppliers are churning out innovations to keep up with astute shoppers. According to Dr. Dennis Gross, founder of 900 5th Dermatology and creator of Dr. Dennis Gross Skincare, New York, “We are now in the golden age of skin care. There have never been so many products and ingredients that can literally erase years off our faces.”

Gross noted that retinol is still very popular on the market, as it stimulates the production of new skin cells and inhibits the body’s natural enzymes that break down collagen. It also helps to fade dark spots resulting from photo-aging, hyper-pigmentation, hormonal changes and blemish scars.

The latest skin care breakthrough Dr. Gross’ brand has developed features retinol. The Ferulic Acid + Retinol Brightening Solution is a unique product because of the synergistic effect of ferulic acid and retinol. According to Dr. Gross, both retinol and ferulic acid have many of the same anti-aging benefits, but their mechanisms of action are different.

“I found that the effect is greater than the sum of the parts when used together,” he told Happi. “By combining ferulic acid with retinol, I have managed to take the effects of both ingredients to an even greater level of benefit than either can achieve on its own. For instance, ferulic acid, a natural antioxidant derived from fennel, artichokes and cherries, actually boosts the anti-aging benefits of retinol. In addition, this product evens skin tone, adds radiance and minimizes pores.”

Other upcoming launches from the Dr. Dennis Gross brand include an Alpha Beta Daily Glow Moisturizer, a CC cream and an anti-aging hair care collection.

Virginia Lee, senior research analyst, Euromonitor International, Chicago, IL, observed that retinoids, peptides and chia seeds are popular now in skin care.

“Retinoids continue to be prominent in new product launches as they offer results, though with some irritation,” she explained.
“Chia seeds are moving into the mainstream food and beverage market as manufacturers take advantage of the nutritional properties of chia seeds—high in omega-3 fatty acids, antioxidants, and protein. In turn, skin care companies such as Perricone MD Cosmeceuticals are introducing a chia serum that contains the oil from chia seeds.”

Plant stem cells also continue to be a hot skin care ingredient as well in 2013. According to Liga Upeslacis, research and development, B. Kamins Laboratories, Pointe-Claire, Quebec City, they are appearing all over the skin care market in different varieties—fruits, flowers and plants.

“To bring this ingredient innovation, it is interesting when paired with a complimentary ingredient that could have a similar effect via a different mechanism,” she told Happi. For example, the B. Kamins Nia-Stem Kx does just that, pairing niacin with plant stem cells.

“Both ingredients improve pigmentation and skin health, and then separately have really great skin benefits,” Upeslacis noted.
Dr. Zoe Diana Draelos, consulting professor, Duke University School of Medicine, Durham, NC, agreed that plant stem cells are going to be big in skin care for years to come.

“I think the hottest new ingredients are the stem cell derived botanicals that are contaminant-free and highly reproducible in terms of content,” she said. “Another trend is the combination of oral supplements and topical application to achieve the best anti-aging results.”

Independents Have Their Day
Indie innovators are also stepping into the skin care ring with new discoveries. One of them is MEG 21 from Dynamis Skin Science of Jenkintown, PA. Powered by Supplamine, an ingredient that addresses the impact of glycation and oxidative stress, the collection stops the production of reactive sugar in the skin. According to company president/CEO Annette M. Tobia, its cornerstone SKU, the MEG 21 Face Treatment, dramatically reduces wrinkles and fine lines in four weeks. The line is expanding in the future with both a moisturizing cleanser and toner, added Tobia.

Classic components such as glycerin are also being re-interpreted in today’s skin care products.

“Glycerin, which is one of the most important moisturizers recognized by the skin’s aquaporin channels is being delivered to the skin in new ways,” explained Dr. Jeannette Graf, assistant clinical professor of dermatology, Mount Sinai Medical Center, NY; private practice in Great Neck, NY. “The Avène Cold Cream Hand Cream is a new launch, which has encapsulated emulsions containing micro-reservoirs of glycerin in addition to anti-redness minerals and sucralfate. Stevia is a new ingredient found to be extremely moisturizing which will be seen in moisturizing skin products.” 

Coveted Collections
From Olay to Pond’s to Physicians Formulas, new ranges are popping up in both mass and prestige to suit a variety of skin care needs: sensitivity, blemishes and even menopause.

For example, the new Olay Age Defying Sensitive Skin lineup combines Olay’s anti-aging and moisturizing expertise to keep skin moisture levels balanced, and help combat signs of aging, all while being suitable for sensitive skin, according to the company. The Olay Age Defying Sensitive Skin collection includes Olay Age Defying Sensitive Skin Day Lotion with Broad Spectrum SPF 15 and Olay Age Defying Sensitive Skin Night Cream.

Olay also recently debuted its new Olay Total Effects Moisturizer + Serum Duo said to fight the seven signs of aging with niacinamide and n-acetyl glucosamine, among other ingredients. This follows the brand’s CC cream launch in late 2012.

According to Mary Begovic Johnson, principal scientist, P&G Beauty, Cincinnati, OH, Olay was the industry leader in bringing the first mass produced CC cream to the US this past October.

“Olay Total Effects Tone Correcting CC Cream with Broad Spectrum SPF 15 treats seven signs of aging, while also providing immediate color correction with tinted formulas and includes UV protection for tone correction over time,” she said. “The multiple, must-have instant and long-term benefits result from the Olay-exclusive Essential Glucosamine Complex, containing N-acetyl glucosamine and niacinamide. This complex was shown to deliver a reduction in the appearance of facial hyperpigmentation.”

Additionally, Olay recently launched a BB cream under a new line for millennials called Fresh Effects. The Olay Fresh Effects BB Cream is a tinted moisturizer with broad spectrum sun protection, and was created for a generation craving a simple all-in-one moisturizer and SPF with instant sheer wash of color, added Begovic Johnson.

Also big in mass, Pond’s is bulking up its Luminous Moisture collection with a new Day Lotion with SPF 15. According to the company, it offers daily sun protection in a light, non-greasy day lotion that contains UVA/UVB and is enriched with illuminating minerals known to brighten dull skin.

Clean and Clear is expanding its franchise with the Advantage Daily Soothing collection, which is billed as the first facial skin care launch to blend aloe and avocado with a maximum strength acne medicine that’s gentle enough for everyday use. The line was developed for users who seek a gentle, yet effective way to treat their acne. This oil-free formula contains 2% salicylic acid to help prevent breakouts and is infused with aloe, avocado and clean, fresh and floral fragrance notes, according to the company.

In prestige, Estée Lauder revamped its pomegranate-based Nutritious collection, now powered by the proprietary new Pomegranate Nectar Infusion. Touted for delivering a “post-exercise” glow, the complex combines a blend of bio-converted pomegranate and antioxidant-rich super berries (bio-fermented cranberry, blueberry and wolfberry) to detoxify irritants and neutralize free radicals. According to the company, Nutritious Radiant Vitality 2-in-1 Foam Cleanser, Energy Lotion in Intense Moist and Fresh Moist, Essence Oil and 2-Step Treatment give skin a new look of active, radiant health.

  “The new Nutritious Collection was developed for the woman who is looking for products that are made with naturally-derived ingredients and that help to leave skin looking healthy and radiant,” said Dr. Nadine Pernodet, Ph.D., executive director of skin biology, research and development, The Estée Lauder Companies. “Bio-fermentation is a natural fermentation and purification process that transforms and strengthens the benefits of an ingredient, making it even better. With the new Nutritious, it boosts the power of pomegranate, along with cranberry, blueberry and wolfberry, and converts the ingredients into an optimized form that is more readily absorbed by skin.”

Estée Lauder also rolled out Perfectly Clean, a high-performance collection of four advanced, multi-action cleansers and refining toner designed to transform skin, according to the company. Fortified with the proprietary new 3C Purity Complex, a blend of skin-soothing botanicals that includes blue algae along with zinc PCA and milk thistle, Perfectly Clean leaves skin thoroughly cleansed of impurities, makeup and surface pollutants without disrupting skin’s natural balance.

“Many cleansers and soaps are too harsh on skin and can cause irritation that eventually leads to premature signs of aging,” said Pernodet. “Our approach is to deliver beautiful results without irritation.” 

Products include the Perfectly Clean Multi-Action Foam Cleanser/Purifying Mask, Multi-Action Creme Cleanser/Moisture Mask, Multi-Action Cleansing Gelée/Refiner, Triple-Action Cleanser/Toner/Makeup Remover and Multi-Action Toning Lotion/Refiner address every woman’s customized cleansing needs and preferences. The Perfectly Clean Collection is non-acnegenic, dermatologist-tested, ophthalmologist-tested and formulated for all skin types.

Fellow skin care veteran Physicians Formula has added a line exclusive to Ulta stores that addresses hormonal aging, and its effects on the skin, with the launch of Hormonal Aging. Targeting age-specific issues such as loss of elasticity, reduced collagen levels and dark spots, the new Physicians Formula Cosmeceutical Hormonal Aging formulas feature hormone-mimicking skin care ingredients like phyto-estrogen complexes, phyto complex endorphins and peptides, along with neurocosmetics that offer psychological benefits for hormonal changes in the skin, said the company. Products range from a Radiance Restoring Skin Brightener, a highly concentrated serum helps restore radiance and promotes even skin tone to replace dullness with an overall youthful glow, to the Anti-Sagging & Restoring Serum, a potent serum that visibly lifts and smoothes skin to diminish the appearance of sagging in the facial region.

“The menopause line is an innovative system of products that are specifically designed to target the effects of the hormonal shift that happens prior to, during and post menopause,” noted Physicians Formula CEO Ingrid Jackel. “When used together, these products help replenish lost moisture, accelerate healthy cell turnover, increase firmness and elasticity and deliver a mood-boosting effect.”

Natural Wonders
Green ingredients are still a major draw in formulating unique and effective skin care products.  For example, Finnish beauty brand sold at CVS and Walgreens, Lumene, revamped its Excellent Future line using arctic cloudberry stem cell technology to obtain arctic cloudberry extract, which, when combined with apple stem cell extract, delivers a double dose of potent anti-aging benefits unlike ever before, contends the company.

The unique cloudberry stem cell extract contains roughly 10 times the amount of potent, natural antioxidants known as flavanols. Cloudberry stem cell extract has also been shown to boost skin’s collagen synthesis, helping to retain its youthful suppleness.

The range includes a Dual Boost Age-Defying and Repairing Day Cream, formulated with peat extract to improve skin’s elasticity, panthenol and vitamin E; a Dual Boost Age-Defying and Repairing Night Cream enriched with betaine, derived from arctic sugarbeet; as well as a serum and eye cream.

The new Good & Clean collection from Alba Botanica is
fueled by AHAs.
Alba Botanicals is expanding its natural personal care repertoire with the new Good & Clean fruit exfoliating line (apple, orange, lemon, and strawberry, to name a few) in a variety of cleansers—from cloths to foaming face washes.

The latest addition to the menu at Yes To natural skin care is grapefruit extract, which is said to assist in warding off free radicals and minimizing skin discoloration. According to the company, Yes To Grapefruit formulations blend powerful fruit acids with ingredients that help to reduce hyperpigmentation, correct skin damage, and enhance radiance.

“We’re very proud of our new Yes To Grapefruit collection,” said Ido Leffler, co-founder/chief carrot lover, Yes To, Inc., San Francisco. “Each formulation is a unique blend of natural ingredients with very specialized active ingredients that offer a truly innovative and natural way of evening skin tone and reducing hyperpigmentation. In these formulas, we utilize a grapefruit extract that is based on highly concentrated, liposomal-encapsulated citroflavonoids for skin brightening. We also use licorice extract and its active component, Glabridin, which contains skin brightening, anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties to help achieve a more even skin tone.”

Fellow naturals marketer Eminence Organics is rolling out an anti-aging range this season with Age Corrective Night, a new overnight repair collection with anti-aging stem cell complex. Lavender, monoi and evening primrose oil calm and soothe the senses, while an exclusive Anti-Aging Stem Cell Complex penetrates the skin to improve skin density, regenerate dermal stem cells and erase wrinkles from the inside out. The unique combination of argan stem cells and a naturally occurring active from nutmeg seeds is clinically proven to turn back the clock, according to the company.

Products vary from a Lavender Age Corrective Night Concentrate to a Monoi Age Corrective Night Cream for Face and Neck.

Learning the Alphabet
Skin care formulators are getting challenged by “alphabet” skin care products, which continue to entice consumers. According to Shannon Romanowski, beauty and personal care analyst with Mintel, Chicago, IL, multi-functional skin care products such as BB creams and CC creams dominate new skin care launches.

“Products that promote skin care and cosmetic benefits while providing sun protection provide consumers with a versatile all-in-one skin care option,” she told Happi. “Mintel’s consumer research indicates that 59% of female facial skin care users are interested in products that provide coverage and skin care benefits.”

Recently in mass, brands such as Olay and Hard Candy debuted CC (color correcting) creams, and now Clinique is said to be storming the prestige marketplace with its own CC SKU. Clinique Moisture Surge CC Cream Hydrating Colour Corrector Broad Spectrum SPF 30 ($35) debuted in April. Translucent lavender optics are said to correct a variety of skin issues, as well as vitamin E, according to Clinique. The product is available in six shades.

“All-in-one products are all the rage right now,” observed Dr. Paul Jarrod Frank, cosmetic dermatologist, founder and director of The 5th Avenue Dermatology Surgery & Laser Center, New York. “They offer women several different types of skin treatments in one simple tube. Many of these products have active anti-aging ingredients, in addition to sun protection, hydration and concealing coverage.”

Upeslacis of B. Kamins agreed that BB, CC and beyond creams are on-trend this season.

“With women’s lives continuing to be fast-paced, multi-tasking daily routines products like BB creams have taken off as a go-to-it, all-in-one product,” she told Happi, noting that the B. Kamins BB Cream provides “instant illumination and an even skin tone.”

“It’s a multi-purpose product that simplifies the user’s skin care routine. It’s more than a cream, and more lasting than makeup. Use it as a moisturizer, a primer, or as a replacement for makeup—whatever suits,” Upeslacis added. 

Dr. Brandt is bulking up its BB cream collection with a new matte formulation for 2013. Designed for oily/combination skin, the formulation features a Shinerase Complex with a sebum regulating marine extract blend, as well as SPF 30/PA+++ .

  “Everyone wants an even complexion, but it doesn’t mean much when your skin is oily and shiny,” said Dr. Brandt. “I developed BB matte to bring the power of BB cream to those with oily and blemish-prone skin, building shine control into the formula for all the same treatment benefits with a matte effect.”

Single SKUs, Multiple Benefits
It’s not just lines and wrinkles that cause skin to look aged. Discolorations can add years to your look, noted Dr. Cheryl Karcher, board certified dermatologist and professional consultant for Avon. The brand’s latest creation is the Anew Absolute Even Multi-Tone Skin Corrector, designed to even out the look of multiple types of discolorations on a wide variety of skin tones. 

Elizabeth Arden Eight  Hour
 Billed as a mild formulation, the corrector is developed with DSX-7 technology, a complex containing two complimentary forms of vitamin C for optimal performance, according to the company. 

Another long-standing beauty brand, Elizabeth Arden, is expanding its skin care scope for 2013. Since its introduction in 1930, Elizabeth Arden’s original Eight Hour Cream Skin Protectant has been an international sensation that’s passed down from generation to generation. While the formula for the iconic “miracle” cream has remained virtually unchanged, the Eight Hour collection has expanded to include multiple products for the face and body.

Now, Elizabeth Arden introduces two new lip treatments to the line: Eight Hour Cream Intensive Lip Repair Balm and Eight Hour Cream Nourishing Lip Balm Broad Spectrum Sunscreen SPF 20. Petrolatum, shea butter, palm tree butter, an essential fatty acids complex and honey extract work together to smooth and soften skin. The formulation also features a botanical extract, cardiospermum halicacabum; as well as menthol for a cooling effect.

GinZing Energy Boosting Moisturizer
by Origins
Zesty ingredients surely are the rage, as the most current development at Origins aims to wake up tired, dull textures with a punch. The new GinZing energy-boosting moisturizer contains panax ginseng and caffeine. According to the company, this lightweight oil-free facial moisturizer delivers a cooling sensation that helps awaken the senses while nourishing ingredients replenish lost hydration. Olive, wheat and barley build a dewy barrier by replenishing moisture reserves, said the company.

Energy-boosters are also on the menu at Sulwhasoo, the Korean skin care brand that’s big at Bergdorf Goodman. Its latest launch in its Ginseng collection is the Concentrated Ginseng Renewing Eye Cream. Exclusive Hydroponic Ginseng cools down heat around the eyes that causes dryness, recovers blood circulation that provides nutrition around the eyes and improves elasticity around the eyes and provides anti-wrinkle benefits, according to the company. This eye cream can even be applied on the eyelids.

Meanwhile, French beauty brand Melvita (with retail stores in San Francisco and Newport Beach, CA) is harnessing the power of roses with its new eye contour gel. Clinically proven to significantly reduce puffiness and dark circles in just 28 days, this triple-action treatment refreshes and revives tired eyes for visible results, contends the company. A lightweight yet potent formula, it combines the moisturizing properties of the rose with the anti-puffiness and decongesting benefits of red seaweed and cornflower water. Enriched with hydrating rose floral water, as well as rose seed milk to help retain moisture and wild rose extract to stimulate circulation of moisture between skin cells, this soothing gel treats the delicate skin around the eyes using gentle, non-irritating, natural ingredients, said the company.

Natural components are also big at Murad; in June, the company is rolling out its first-ever cleansing oil: Renewing Cleansing Oil for face, eyes and lips. According to the company, this non-comedogenic cleanser utilizes a combination of botanical oils to gently remove impurities, irritants and makeup. This formula eases dryness and restores suppleness to dull skin by maintaining the skin’s natural moisture barrier to revitalize and restore a youthful glow too. Grape seed, pomegranate seed, sunflower seed and sweet almond oils fuel the formulation.

“Many people are hesitant to put oil-based products on their skin for fear of clogging pores or causing breakouts. But that’s a misconception. Even oily skin needs moisture—it just needs the right kind,” said Dr. Howard Murad, associate clinical professor of medicine at UCLA and founder of Murad, Inc. “We achieve optimal moisture levels by using topical products that help balance oil production as well as by living an Inclusive Health lifestyle, which addresses what we put in our bodies.” (For more on Dr. Murad’s philosophies, attend the Happi Anti-Aging Conference, Oct. 29 & 30, 2013 in New Brunswick, NJ. Dr. Murad is the Day 1 keynote speaker. Register at http://conference.happi.com)

  Dr. Nicholas Perricone (a keynote speaker at Happi’s 2012 Anti-Aging Conference) is bulking up his acyl-glutathione collection with a deep crease serum out this season. Targeting visible wrinkles from repetitive facial movements, this product is scientifically formulated to deliver a smoothing effect of all expression lines and give well-etched creases a shallower appearance, according to the company. Formulated with the highest concentrations of Dr. Perricone’s patented acyl-glutathione, the serum also contains a proprietary blend of three peptides designed to work with acyl-glutathione to minimize creases and relax facial expressions. A vitamin C ester adds luminosity too.

“Acyl glutathione delivers the body’s master antioxidant, glutathione, directly to the skin. This patent-pending formula dramatically reduces the appearance of creases and other signs of accelerated skin aging,” Dr. Perricone said. “It helps diminish deep lines and wrinkles, visibly improves skin texture, increases skin elasticity while it tightens and firms and addresses extreme dryness and diminishes pore sizes. Thanks to so many emerging technologies, the future looks very positive when it comes to rejuvenation of the skin.”

Upcoming Expectations
Mintel forecasts modest growth for 2013 in its recent report, Anti-Aging Skincare – US, as levels of disposable income steadily increase, potentially resulting in more discretionary purchases like anti-aging skin care. Additionally, an above average interest in anti-aging skin care among Asians and Hispanics will also help drive future growth. Industry experts report a growing interest in ant-aging products, too.

  “More and more of my patients come in requesting for me to make them look like a younger version of themselves,” said Dr. Gross. “This places a greater focus on the importance of starting to take care of your skin at an early age with the proper products. The best step toward a healthy, youthful complexion is to work aggressively to preserve your skin early on with antioxidants, topical vitamins and regular, gentle, chemical exfoliation. By doing so, we are actually changing the course of how our skin behaves.”

Natural products and novel packaging/devices will also continue to be on trend, according to Leffler of Yes To who noted that the facial skin care trend is moving toward natural as an essential, rather than a ‘nice to have’ element of products.

“We are also seeing trends in delivery mechanisms (like cooler dispensers and more innovative tubes, etc.) as well as an uptick in skin care tools, such as spinning brushes for facial exfoliation,” he added.

The concept of actives vs. ingredients remains in the eye of the beholder. According to Dr. Draelos, the biggest future trend will be the ability to deliver to the skin a defined dose of cosmetic actives to more accurately predict efficacy.

However, Dr. Frank contended that future trends will not be directly related to active ingredients, but rather in the technology of delivery systems enhancing the efficacy of skin penetration and efficacy of the ingredients we currently have at our fingertips.
And all the while, the skin care consumer is becoming more educated and ready to learn, observed Upeslacis of B. Kamins.
Therefore, successful products need to stand up to the public’s expectations. As she told Happi, “There is an opportunity now to really explain a product through its ingredients, and we see that continuing as a trend.”

Body Work
Skin care is not just for the face anymore — as seen with a variety of new launches that target skin down to the toes:

• The clinical active in Orico’s Organic Full Cup Bust & Neck Enhancing Elixir ($47) has been proven to enhance the bustline after six weeks of use while improving skin quality. The all-natural breast enhancement oil contains powerful natural moisturizers and antioxidants, which intensify its action by toning and firming the bust and neck area.

• B Kamins Rice Body Polish ($26) is a polishing, exfoliating body buffer containing natural rice beads in a tensio-active, creamy base for increased skin clarity and a more refined skin texture, said the company. Rice bran beads coupled with jojoba oil and squalane are mixed with the brand’s proprietary Bio-Maple Compound to hydrate and brighten skin.

• Glō·therapeutics has a new Volumizing Breast Cream ($65) with ingredients like Voluplus and Adlifyline to boost curves and volume while nourishing the skin.

• La Prairie Cellular Mineral Body Exfoliator ($125) tones from top to toes with densely packed exfoliation beads. Pure diamond powder, amethyst powder and smithsonite mineral extract help ensure uniform skin refinement for instantly smoother, more radiant skin, said the company

• Erno Laszlo Firmarine Neck Cream ($115)  is designed to treat the delicate skin of the neck as well as tone and firm the skin near the chin. This intensive firming cream is formulated with spirulina maxima and algae extract to restore the skin’s supply of collagen and elastin while addressing the signs of aging in the neck region.

• SkinCeuticals Neck, Chest & Hand Repair ($70) is a revitalizing treatment specifically formulated to brighten and re-densify difficult-to-treat skin areas that are prone to aging as a result of time and exposure to environmental elements. This dual-action formula contains targeted skin brightening and plumping agents to reduce discoloration, re-densify skin and restore a healthier appearance. Key ingredients include hydroxyphenoxy propionic acid, which removes surface pigmentation and inhibits melanin transfer; sodium tetrahydro-jasmonate, said to remove excess surface pigmentation and re-densifies skin; and vigna aconitifolia seed extract, which re-densifies and firms the skin by promoting cell renewal and collagen synthesis, according to the company.

• Reverse signs of aging to the delicate décolleté and cleavage area while enhancing the bustline with Dermelect Cleavage Contour Cream ($40). It is formulated with coenzyme Q 10, an anti-aging fighter that tightens skin and counteracts free radical damage; avocado and jojoba oils to nourish and hydrate; hyaluronic acid, said to retain water up to 1,000 times its weight; and chamomile to soothe inflammation.

• L’Occitane’s new Foot Care cream ($16) is enriched with softening almond oil and almond milk. According to the company, it also contains nourishing shea butter and mint essential oil to refresh and purify. It dries with a powdery finish to moisturize on the go.

• Vaseline’s new Spray & Go Moisturizer ($7.99) is a quick, continuous 360-degree spray lotion that moisturizes deeply and absorbs in seconds, according to the company. It is available in three variants: Total Moisture, Aloe Fresh and Cocoa Radiant. 

New Ingredients
for Skin Care
Here is a list of new ingredients for skin care formulations. For more information on the products listed, contact the supplier directly.

Acme-Hardesty Co.
Blue Bell, PA
Tel: (866) 226-3834
Email: [email protected] or
[email protected]
Website: www.acme-hardesty.com
Ahcohol 1754
INCI: C16-C17 isoalcohols
Use Levels: 2-10% in skin creams, lotions,
sunscreens and hair conditioners.
Applications: Liquid emulsifier and
structuring agent for skin and hair care
products. Cold-processible substitute for
cetearyl alcohol.
Comments: Ahcohol 1754 is a 100% mono-
methyl branched alcohol which is a
blend of C16 and C17 high purity primary
alcohols. It is manufactured using modified
OxoMono Methyl branched alcohol
technology, a process route that delivers
odor-free fluid alcohols with high molecular
weights (MW 244-255). Ahcohol 1754
is a liquid product that is easy to handle
and does not require additional heat to
blend with other products (Pour Point approx.
-19 C).
Biomix Clear
INCI: Citrus extract, phenoxyethanol,
ascorbic acid, citric acid and water
Use Levels: 0.5-0.8%
Applications: Personal care and cosmetics
Comments: The Biomix blends can be
used in leave-on and rinse-off products.
They can be characterized with broadspectrum
efficacy, good solubility in water,
good tolerance in elevated temperatures
and perform in a wide pH range (4-8).
Biomix ECO
INCI: Citrus extract, benzyl alcohol, glycerine,
tocopheryl acetate, citric acid, lactic
acid and water
Use Levels: 0.5-0.8%
Applications: Personal care and cosmetic
Comments: The Biomix blends can be
used in leave-on and rinse-off products.
They can be characterized with broadspectrum
efficacy, good solubility in water,
good tolerance in elevated temperatures
and perform in a wide pH range (4-8).

Ajinomoto North America, Inc.
Fort Lee, NJ
Tel: (201) 292-3180
Email:[email protected]
Website: www.ajichem.com
Amilite ET-CS-12
INCI: Disodium cocoyl glutamate, sodium
cocoyl theoninate, sodium cocoyl
Use Levels: 1-30%
Applications: Cleansing for both skin
and hair
Comments: New proprietary amino-acid
based moisturizing surfactant with high
foaming power. Natural, safe and effective
for all applications.

Arista Industries, Inc.
Wilton, CT
Tel: (203) 761-1009
Email: [email protected]
Website: www.aristaindustries.com
Marula oil
INCI: Sclerocarya birrea
Use Levels: 1-100% depending on
Applications: Lipstick, eyeshadow, skin
toner, creams and lotions
Comments: Rich in antioxidants and
oleic and palmitic acid. Marula Oil absorbs
quickly, but also creates a protective
coating on the skin surface. Marula Oil
hydrates and heals skin tissue, reduces
redness and trans-epidermal water loss
and increases epidermal smoothness.
Sacha Inchi Oil
INCI: Plukenetia volubilis seed oil
Use Levels: 1-100% depending on
Applications: Lip balm, skin toner,
creams and lotions
Comments: Contains high levels ofomega-3 (46%), omega-6 (32%) and
omega-9 (11%). Natural content of vitamins
A and E act as antioxidants and
make for a highly stable oil. Sacha inchi
oil conditions and moisturizes dry skin,
rejuvenates the skin and aids in skin repair
and stretch mark prevention and care.
Olive Squalane
INCI: Squalane
Use Levels: 1-100% depending on
Applications: Skin toner, anti-aging formulas,
creams and lotions
Comments: Nourishes and moisturizes
the skin with vital nutrients and softens
skin to help reduce the visible facial
lines of maturity and sun damage.
Similar to the natural oils of the body,
skin can completely absorb it. Helps hydrate
& sooth irritated and dry skin and
restore essential moisture, so skin feels
more supple and firm.

Ashland Care Specialties
Wayne, NJ
Tel: (800) 505-8984
Email: [email protected]
Website: Ashland.com/personalcare
Actopontine Biofunctional
INCI: Water (and) butylene glycol (and)
hexapeptide (Proposed)
Use Levels: 1%
Applications: Anti-aging creams, formulations
to advance skin firmness and
elasticity, facial day and night creams and
body care formulations.
Comments: Actopontine Biofunctional
is a bio-engineered peptide inspired
by dermatopontin, a vital protein recognized
for its role in fortifying the
foundation of skin. The new offering is
conceived as a potential pathway to help
skin restore foundational proteins that
diminish with age.

BASF Corporation
Florham Park, NJ
Tel: (973) 245-6000
Email: [email protected]
Website: www.beauty-creations.basf.com/?utm_source=HAP&utm_medium=ContentMarketing&utm_campaign=HAP/
Ultra Filling Spheres
INCI: Ethylhexyl palmitate, trihydroxystearin,
sodium hyaluronate, amorphophallus
konjac root powder
Use Levels: 0.5-3%
Applications: Anti-wrinkle treatment,
eye contour, deep wrinkle treatment,
long term hydration, volumizing lipsticks
Comments: Ultra Filling Spheres creates
increased water absorption and swelling
capacity, provides long-lasting moisturization,
and smoothes fine lines and deep
wrinkles (in vitro and ex vivo data).
INCI: Water, algae extract, hexylene glycol,
capryl glycol, xanthan gum.
Use Levels: 1-2%
Applications: Under-eye treatment,
multi-intense eye area cream, brightening
eye serum
Comments: Shadownyl has good antiinflammation
and anti-oxidation effects,
and very good collagen I stimulation. It
helps erase dark circles around eyes and
reduces the appearance of wrinkles (in
vivo data).
INCI: Glyceryl laurate, moringa oleifera
seed extract
Use Levels: 0.40%
Applications: Deodorants, anti-odor
body care, foot cream, intimate hygiene
Comments: Freshaxyl significantly reduced
the production of bodily odors
as efficiently as the leading molecule on
the market.Freshaxyl is effective for 24 hours,
starting at the very first application (in
vivo data).

Biosil Technologies Inc.
Allendale, NJ
Tel: (201) 825-8800
Email: [email protected]
Website: www.biosiltech.com
INCI: Water (and) algae extract
Use Levels: 1-3%
Applications: Skin care formulations for
oily skins, combination skins and skins
prone to acne.
Comments: Sebocea is a water calibrated
extract that combines the properties
of the green microalga Tetraselmis chui
and the brown seaweed Fucus spiralis. It
is the efficient marine treatment against
oily skin and its related disorders. Ecocert
INCI: Hyaluronic acid (and) silanetriol
(and) water (and) butylene glycol
Use Levels: 2.5-10%.
Applications: Epidermosil is hydrosoluble,
it can be formulated in all types of
products (gels, lotions, emulsions) excluding
anhydrous formulations
Comments: This active has been designed
to improve the epidermal and cell renewal
effect of hyaluronic acid (epidermal
extra-cellular matrix), avoid epidermal
thinning, increase formation of glycosaminoglycanes
(including hyaluronic
acid), avoid formation of pro-inflammatory
hyaluronic fragments (reduce sensitivity
to metabolization).
Phytic Acid Extreme
INCI: Phytic acid
Use Levels: 0.50-20.00%
Applications: Skin care, hair care and
oral care
Comments: 100% natural derived from
rice. Self-neutralizing ‘one step’ exfoliant,
highly purified and crystal clear, powerful

Norwalk, CT
Tel: (203) 822-9800
Email: [email protected]
Website: www.centerchem.com
INCI: Propanediol, water, boerhavia diffusa
root extract
Use Levels: 1.0-3.0%
Applications: Skin brightening products
Comments: Melavoid is obtained from
the roots of punamava (Boerhaavia
diffusa) and standardized in boeravinones.
Boeravinone B, a component of
Boerhaavia diffusa, was shown through
in silico screening to act as a natural
agonist of PPARy. Within the different
types of melanogenesis modulation
mechanisms of cosmetic ingredients,
Melavoid introduces a new concept
based on its action, through binding to
PPARy, on the phases prior to the metabolic
pathway of melanin synthesis. In
vivo studies have shown Melavoid is an
intelligent depigmentant–with its activity
higher in the areas of skin with spots.
Melavoid diminishes skin pigmentation
intensity up to 28%, resulting in more
even skin color.
INCI: Glycerin, water, tetradecyl aminobutyroylvalylaminobutyric
urea trifluoroacetate,
palmitoyl tripeptide-5,
palmitoyl dipeptide-5 diaminobutyroyl
Use Levels: 1.0-2.5%
Applications: Anti-aging skin care
Comments: Syn-TC is a synthetic peptide
complex that focuses on total collagen
care. Collagens are responsible
for the skin’s strength and smoothness,
providing structure and firmness. Over
time, collagen levels decrease and their
proper function is reduced. Through in
vitro studies, Syn-TC has been shown
to increase the formation of undamaged,
stable and homogeneous collagens
to facilitate their unique contribution to
beautiful smooth skin. Syn-TC works on
dermal collagen I and III as well as on the
DEJ collagens IV, VII and XVII resulting in
smoother, firmer skin.
Neossance Squalane
INCI: Squalane
Use Levels: 1.0-2.0%
Applications: Skin and hair care products
Comments: Squalane occurs naturally in
the lipidic layers of the skin and prevents
moisture loss while restoring the skin’s
suppleness and flexibility. Its exceptional
moisturizing properties and ability to
penetrate the skin have long made squalane
a favorite amongst cosmetics and
personal care formulators. Amyris has
developed a unique process that enables
the reliable and sustainable production
of 100% plant-derived pure squalane:
Neossance Squalane. This high performance,
GMO-free emollient is derived
from botanical sugars at a scale capable
of meeting the world’s demand.
Neossance Squalane is highly moisturizing
and fast-absorbing while providing
a silky, smooth and luxurious touch. Ideal
for elegant face products and emulsions,
as well as body lotions and moisturizers,
Neossance Squalane leaves the skin feeling
soft and smooth without a greasy, heavy

Chemsil Silicones Inc.
Chatsworth, CA
Tel: (818) 700-0302
Email: [email protected]
Website: www.chemsil.com
Gelaid Silk
INCI: Cyclohexasiloxane (and) vinyl
methicone silsesquioxane
crosspolymer (and) acryalte/sodium acrylodimethyltaurate
copolymer (and) isohexadecane
(and) PEG-10 dimethicone
(and) polysorbate 80
Use Levels: 8-15%
Application: Beauty balms, complexion
correctors, anti-aging lotions, moisturizing
Comments: Cold mix process capable of
creating elegant, silky to the touch, rich
emulsions using advanced micro-sphere
Cosmetic Fluid 4120-DM
INCI: Cyclopentasiloxane (and) polysilicone-
Use Levels: 2-20%
Application: Delivery serums, lotions,
gels, creams
Comments: Hybrid spherical designed
dispersion that absorbs organic oils and
sebum. Delivers a natural soft focus, matte
finish and moisturization.
CLR Chemisches Laboratorium
Dr. Kurt Richter GmbH
Berlin, Germany
Tel: +49 30 85 10 26 0
Email: [email protected]
Website: www.clr-berlin.com
Belides ORG
INCI: Bellis perennis (daisy) flower extract
Use Levels: 2-5%
Applications: Belides ORG can be used
in emulsified and gel type formulations.
Comments: Belides ORG is derived from
organic daisy flowers (Bellis perennis)
and is recommended for being used in
skin-lightening cosmetics and in case of
pigmentation disorders, hyperpigmentation
or age spots. Belides ORG is certified
by Ecocert Greenlife, according to the
Ecocert Standard for Natural and Organic
Phytodermin K
INCI: Glycine soja (soybean) protein
Use Levels: 5-10%
Applications: Phytodermin K can be
used in emulsified and gel-type skin care
Comments: Phytodermin K is a cosmetic
active of vegetal origin and designed to
re-establish the physiological balance of
aging skin or skin stressed by environmental

Croda Inc
Edison, NJ USA
Tel: 732-417-0800
Fax: 732-417-0804
Email: [email protected]
Website: www.croda.com/na/pc
Crodafos BES-70
INCI: Beheneth-30 phosphate (and) cetostearyl
alcohol (and) dicetyl phosphate
(and) cetyl phosphate
Use Levels: 1.5-5%
Applications: Creams and lotions,
anti-aging treatments, sunscreens,
Comments: Build exceptional sensory
with this 70% active phosphate ester
based on behenyl chemistry. Creates stable
systems over a broad pH range, making
it perfect for systems with difficult to
use actives. High activity level allows for
cost effective formulations with lots of
flexibility to create the prefect sensory.
US Patent 6,117,915.
NatraGem EW
INCI: Glyceryl stearate (and) polyglyceryl-
6 palmitate/succinate (and) cetearyl
Use Levels: 3-7.5%
Applications: All natural formulations
Comments: A highly effective emulsifying
wax designed to offer outstanding
efficiency and versatility. With an excellent
electrolyte tolerance and compatibility
with both high and low polarity oils,
NatraGem EW can create pourable lotions
to high viscosity creams that are nonwhitening
on the skin and have great sensory
benefits. 100% naturally derived andapproved natural by Ecocert. US Patent
Liquiwax PolyEFA
INCI: Octyldodecyl/PPG-3 myristyl ether
Use Levels: 5-40%
Applications: Color cosmetics, creams
and lotions, hand, nail and foot care, lip
care, eye care
Comments: Part of Croda’s new range
of Liquimax cosmetic esters, Liquimax
PolyEFA is a polymeric liquid emollient
containing essential fatty acids that provides
the conditioning effects of omega-
6-linoleic acid in a high molecular weight,
moderate viscosity polymeric ester. Its
high refractive index imparts gloss, its
excellent pigment dispersing properties
make it suitable for makeup and sunscreen
products, and it can also enhance
makeup removal in skin cleansers. US
Patents 7,015,350; 7,253,302.

Dow Chemical Company
Midland, MI
Tel: (800) 447-4369
Email: [email protected]
Website: www.dowpersonalcare.com
epitex 66 polymer
INCI: Acrylates copolymer
Use Levels: 0.5–2.0% polymer solids
Applications: Water resistance for sun
care and color cosmetic products
Comments: Epitex 66 Polymer is an emulsion
that combines excellent water resistance
with more pleasing skin aesthetics
with less tackiness, as compared to conventional
water resistance technologies.
This polymer from Dow Personal Care can
help brand owners advance their formulations
to meet the consumer demand for
great feeling, water-resistant sun care and
color cosmetics applications.
MoistStar HA+
Moisturizing Technology
INCI: Polyquaternium – 67 (and) hyaluronic
Use Levels: 4–16% dosage, which results in
delivering 0.05–0.20% Hyaluronic Acid (HA)
Applications: The technology is suitable
for a variety of skin care applications including
moisturizing creams and lotions,
and skin treatment serums.
Comments: MoistStar HA+
Moisturizing Technology offers formulators
and consumers a longer-lasting skin
moisturization and easier processing. It
is a novel ingredient that combines HA
and a proprietary Dow deposition aid,
providing longer-lasting skin moisturization
that outperforms other conventional
HAs. The product is supplied as
a liquid making it easier to handle and
incorporate into formulations, and has
outstanding adaptability to cold processing
and easier incorporation in skin
care formulations.

Gattefossé USA
Paramus, NJ
Tel: (201) 265-4800
Email: [email protected]
Website: www.gattefosse.com
Original Extract Cherry Bio
INCI: Prunus cerasus (cherry) fruit water
Use Levels: Up to 100%
Applications: Skin care, natural, anti-aging
Comments: Derived from organic cherries,
Original Extract Cherry Bio is 100%
organic, pure cherry water that revitalizes
skin through stimulation of TGF-beta
Gatuline Radiance
INCI: Propanediol (and) evodia rutaecarpa
fruit extract
Use Levels: 1-3%
Applications: Facial skin care and makeup,
products to enhance skin tone or radiance,
anti-aging, BB creams
Comments: Extracted from mature fruits
of Whu-Zhu-Yu, a plant from the Jiangxi
province of Southeast China and well
known in TCM, Gatuline Radiance acts
on microcirculation to improve skin tone
& luminosity. It also improves skin texture
and minimizes the appearance of pores.

Grant Industries
Elmwood Park, NJ
Tel: (201) 791-6700
Email: [email protected]
Website: www.grantinc.com
Gransil SiW-066
INCI: Dimethicone (and) polysilicone-11
(and) butylene glycol (and) water (and)
decyl glucoside
Use Levels: 5-40% depending on
Applications: Skin care, color cosmetics,
sun care, body care
Comments: Easy to formulate, process
friendly micro-dispersion of siliconein-
water. An outer aqueous design on
Gransil SiW-066 allows silicone elastomer
to easily be added to the water-phase of
formulations—no heat required. Gransil
SiW-066 is ideal for cold processing where
elegant products can be created with simple
Gransil VX-409
INCI: Bis-PEG-8 dimethicone
Use Levels: 1-10%
Applications: Toners, light lotions, serums
and wipe applications.
Comments: 100% water-soluble silicone
for easy cold process addition for
water-based formulations requiring a

Independent Chemical Corporation
Glendale, NY
Tel: (718) 894-0700
Email: [email protected]
Website: www.independentchemical.com
INCI: Acetylated glycol stearate
Use Levels: 2-10%
Applications: Co-emulsifier for O/W and
W/O emulsions, ointments, oils, lipsticks,
oily gels, watery gels
Comments: Dispersing agent, improve
flowability, help to reach a better homogenicity
in product and a better distribution
of actives; i.e., in sunscreen helps the dispersing
of filters; strong plasticizer; foam
controller, reduce particle size and bubble
size, provide a delicate foamy feel.
INCI: C10-C18 triglycerides
Use Levels: 5%-30% in O/W and W/O
emulsions; 30%-70% in oils, ointments
and lipidic gels; 2%-5% in soaps and liquid
Applications: Creams, lotions, anhydrous
preparations, soaps and suppositories
Comments: Fully saturated, eliminate
all double bonds, supreme stability;
mid-chain triglycerides, close to skin
lipid structure, fast absorption with light
and delicate after feel; non-occlusive,
non-acanthogenic, non-comedogenic.
INCI: Water and glucamine and
Use Levels: 0.1%–1% according to acid
Applications: Alternative to classic neutralizer
Comments: Substitute to common neutralizers
like TEA/AMP/NaOH at same
use level; no generation of secondary
toxic elements; better transparency profile,
won’t alter coloration of product after

Jeen International Corporation
Fairfield, NJ
Tel: (973) 439-1401
Email: [email protected]
Website: www.jeen.com
Jeesperse Ice-T LB-T
INCI: Cetyl alcohol, glyceryl stearate,
stearic acid, glycol stearate, sodium acrylate/
sodium acryloyl dimethyl taurate
Use Levels: 1–10%
Applications: Skin, sun, hair care and
color cosmetics
Comments: Launched this spring, patented
Jeesperse Ice-T instant cold emulsion
technology includes optimized
powders that, when introduced into
water at room temperature, rapidly form
stable emulsions typically eliminating
the use of traditional emulsifiers and
allowing the addition of waxes into the
system without heating. Benefits include
reduced energy costs, time savings, no
cool-down and single vessel production.
In addition to the Jeesperse Ice-T LB-T,other flagship products in the series include
Jeesperse Ice-T LB-21, which contains
the above ingredients, substituting
acrylates C10-30 alkyl crosspolymer
for the copolymer, and Jeesperse Ice-T
CARB-1 which substitutes carbomer
for the copolymer. Each product offers
unique formulating attributes as well as
flexibility due to the different polyelectrolyte
polymers employed which overall
results in excellent viscosity control,
emulsion building and unique formulation

Kewpie Corporation
Tokyo, Japan
Tel: +81-3-3486-3338
Email: [email protected]
Website: www.kewpie.co.jp/english/fc
INCI: Hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid
Comments: 0.01-1.0%
Applications: Skin, hair
Comments: Molecular weight less than
10,000 Da. Innovative penetration type.
INCI: Hydroxypropyltrimonium
Use Levels: 0.005-1.0%
Applications: Skin, hair
Comments: Chemically modified (made
partially cationized), innovative adhesion
type (not easily washing off). Patent
INCI: C12-13 alkyl glyceryl hydrolyzed
Use Levels: 0.05-1.0%
Applications: Skin care
Comments: Chemically modified (made
partially hydrophobic). Innovative
barrier-function-recovery type. Patent

Lipo Chemicals, Inc.
Paterson, NJ
Tel: (973) 345-8600
Email: [email protected]
Website: www.lipochemicals.com
Vedaplex 209 JB
Use Levels: 0.5-2%
Applications: Creams and lotions, facial
masks, serums, anti-aging products.
Comments: Based on Ayurvedic concepts,
Vedaplex 209 JB can help to nourish skin,
improve skin radiance and promote antiaging
Vedaplex 121 NF
Use Levels: 0.5-2%
Applications: Creams and lotion, exfoliating
products and scrubs, facial masks
and cleansers.
Comments: Based on Ayurvedic concepts,
Vedaplex 121 NF helps to brighten pale
and dull complexions and enhance epidermal
Biopolymer BHA-10
Use Levels: 1-3%
Applications: Moisturizing creams and
lotions, hydrating skin care serums, facial
masks and serums, facial cleansers and
make up removers
Comments: Biopolymer BHA-10 provides
substantive moisturization to skin, may be
used in rinse off products.

Jersey City, NJ
Tel: (201) 633-4662
Email: [email protected]
Website: www.lipotec.com
INCI: Butylene glycol, water (aqua), acetyl
hexapeptide-50 (INCI proposed)
Applications: Protection/prevention,
DNA care, sun care
Use Levels: 2%
Comments: Hexapeptide that mimics the
activity of FOXO3a, a protein member of
the Forkhead box transcription factors
that is involved in cell repair, renewal and
longevity of the cells. Juvefoxo protects
Are you looking for an alternative source forDNA from damage, stimulates its natural
repair pathways and reverts senescence.
INCI: Pseudoalteromonas ferment extract
Use Levels: 2%
Applications: Anti-wrinkle
Comments: Anti-wrinkle biotechnological
active ingredient of marine origin with
proven efficacy in reducing lipstick lines in
only one week. Seacode enhances the synthesis
of essential dermal proteins, such as
collagen I, contributing to the amelioration
of the structural properties of the skin while
combating visible aging signs.
INCI: Water (aqua), acetyl tetrapeptide-2
(INCI proposed), caprylyl glycol
Applications: Firming/restructuring
Use Levels: 2%
Comments: Tetrapeptide that improves
firmness and structural cohesion of
the skin through enhancing the levels
of FBLN5 and LOX-1, which are fundamental
proteins to the assembly of
functional elastin. It also stimulates the
synthesis of collagen and elastin as well
as other elements involved in cellular
adhesion to ECM.

Lonza Personal Care
South Plainfield, NJ
Tel: (908) 561-5200
Email: [email protected]
Website: www.lonza.com
ProSynergen DF
INCI: Lactobacillus/ulkenia amoeboidea
ferment extract filtrate
Use Levels: 1-3%
Applications: Anti-aging skin care, barrier
function treatments, treatment makeup.
Comments: Strengthening barrier function
is the primary means to improve
compromised skin. Barrier protection restores
skin hydration and overall health,
reducing the appearance of signs of premature
aging. ProSynergen DF helps
improve the overall well-being of compromised
skin, so skin looks younger
and healthier.
Natrulon GPS 341
INCI: Fragrance (parfum)
Use Levels: 1-2%
Applications: Baby care, skin care, body
washes, hair care, color cosmetics
Comments: Natrulon GPS 341 is a multifunctional
cosmetic ingredient composed
of a unique blend of natural and
nature-identical ingredients. The material
imparts a delicate fragrance to mildly
enhance the attributes of a personal care
product. In addition, it offers antimicrobial
capabilities to add an additional level
of protection in order to maintain the
product’s integrity.

Lubrizol Advanced Materials, Inc.
Cleveland, OH
Tel: (216) 447-5000
Email: [email protected]
Website: www.lubrizol.com/personalcare
Carbopol Ultrez 30 Polymer
INCI: Carbomer
Use Levels: 0.1-1 wt%
Applications: Facial and body lotions,
creams and gels, systems with organic
acid preservatives, sun care Comments:
Carbopol Ultrez 30 polymer allows the
formulator to achieve desired rheological
and aesthetic properties in the presence
of electrolytes or the acidic actives
required for today’s consumer products.
This crosslinked acrylic acid homopolymer
provides a solution for formulating
skin care products with low to medium
viscosities. Its improved electrolyte tolerance
and broad pH compatibility
makes it ideal for formulating products
with botanical extracts or water-soluble
salts, as well as acidic actives or ingredients
such as alpha hydroxy acids, salicylic
acid or organic acid preservatives at
a pH range as low as 4.0-4.5. It’s all possible
with Carbopol Ultrez 30 polymer.

Mibelle Biochemistry
Buchs, Switzerland
Tel: +41 62 836 1731
Email: [email protected]
Website: www.mibellebiochemistry.com
PhytoCellTec Symphytum
INCI: Symphytum officinale root cell extract
(and) isomalt (and) lecithin (and) sodium
benzoate (and) aqua/water
Use Levels: 0.4-1%
Applications: Rejuvenating formulas,
age-defense products for both face &
body, skin care products to vitalize the
most valuable skin cells – the stem cells
Comments: PhytoCellTec Symphytum
boosts the regenerative power of epidermal
stem cells and their ability to build
new tissue. It has been proven to build a
denser epidermis (+ 88%) that resulted
in a vital skin with an improved barrier
INCI: Pisum sativum (pea) sprout extract
(and) phenoxyethanol (and) sodium benzoate
(and) aqua/water
Use Levels: 2-4%
Applications: Anti-hair loss, hair-growth
formulations, anti-aging hair care products,
tonics, serums, conditioners, masks,
Comments: AnaGain, which is based
on organic pea sprouts, has proven to
clearly reactivate hair growth by directly
targeting the dermal papilla cells that
are key to the hair growth cycle. Thanks
to its double action, AnaGain successfully
boosts the expression of the noggin
gene, which results in a shorter resting
period, and it also enhances the expression
of the fibroblast growth factor-7
gene. This in turn stimulates the proliferation
of hair germ cells to trigger the
anagen growth phase.

Somerset, NJ
Tel: (732) 356-5200
Email: [email protected]
Website: www.presperse.com
INCI: Butylene glycol (and) sodium ascorbyl
glucoside (and) hippophae rhamnoides
fruit extract (and) maltodextrin (and)
portulaca oleracea extract
Use Levels: 1-3%
Applications: lotions, creams, gels, BB
creams, foundations, spot treatments, under
eye creams/serums
Comments: Skinflamm-Aging is a result
of a complex combination of processes resulting
in thin, dull, uneven skin with finelines and rough texture. Lumiesse combines
anti-inflammatory, anti-oxidant and
anti-aging ingredients to reduce fine lines,
improve texture and even tone restoring
the glow of youthful skin.

Purac America, Inc
Lincolnshire, IL
Tel: (847) 634-6330
Email: [email protected]
Website: www.purac.com/personalcare
Purasal NH/COS
INCI: Ammonium lactate
Use Levels: 5-12%
Applications: Treatment for dry, scaly

Sandream Enterprises, LLC
Fairfield, NJ
Tel: (973) 882-3077
Email: [email protected]
Website: www.sandreamllc.com
Ecoperse Red 6
INCI: D&C Red 6 Ba Lake (and) octyldodecyl
Applications: A silicone free, natural ester
dispersed pigment line. Fast absorbing,
soft smooth feel and ideal for Foundation,
Lipstick, BB Creams, etc.
Silk Essence
INCI: Silk amino acids
Applications: Anti-aging properties,
moisturizing and conditioning agents.
Good for skin care formulations in foundations,
lotions, creams, lipsticks, etc.
Hyaluronic Acid
INCI: n/a
Applications: Anti-aging properties,
moisturizing and conditioning agents.
Good for skin care formulations in foundations,
lotions, creams, lipsticks, etc.

Brive Cedex – France
Tel: +33(0) 555 84 58 40
Email: [email protected]
Website: www.silab.fr
INCI: Yeast extract
Use Levels: 1-3%
Applications: Anti-wrinkle
Comments: Genuine booster of the endogenous
synthesis of hyaluronic acid
and expression of HAS2, Prohyal+ is
an active ingredient rich in yeast oligosaccharides
from blue agave leaves
(Metschnikowia agaves). The hydration
benefit, the skin microrelief smoothing
and the decrease of crow’s feet wrinkles
are proven on volunteers. With an efficacy
comparable to that of formulated
hyaluronic acid, Prohyal+ is adapted to
all cosmetic anti-aging formulations.
INCI: Hydrolyzed candida saitoana
Use Levels: 1-3%
Applications: Skin complexion
Comments: Celldetox represents an unexplored
way in skin care: the cell autophagy,
a homeostasic process for the recycling
of altered constituents and organelles. By
reinforcing this detoxifying cell system, it
minimizes the accumulation of lipofuscin
aggregates and thereby contributes to cell
and tissue longevity. This active ingredient
improves the skin radiance of tired and intoxicated
skin and limits the signs of aging
by smoothing microrelief and wrinkles.
Celldetox is the favorite care to reinforce
the cell detoxification process.
INCI: Taraxacum officinale (dandelion)
Applications: Protector
Use Levels: 1-3%
Comments: Rich in fructans, Apolluskin
protects the skin from environmental contamination
effects. By limitating inflammation
and proteins oxidation that are
induced by pollution, Apolluskin improves
the radiance and the skin grain, which are
penalized by aggressions, thus allowingthe polluted skin to recover radiant skin
characteristics. It is recommended in all
day skin care.

Sonneborn, LLC
Parsippany, NJ
Tel: (201) 760-2949
Email: [email protected]
Website: www.sonneborn.com
SonneNatural 200 Series
INCI: Vegetable oil (olus oil – EU)
Use Levels: 1-100%
Applications: Skin care moisturization
and emolliency
Comments: The newest addition to
our SonneNatural line of 100% vegetable
based emollients include three
unique products that impart optimal
moisture retention and offer a range of
rheological properties to meet your
specific formulation requirements. Visit
us at Booth# 1041 at NYSCC Suppliers
Day to learn more about SonneNatural
H-203, S-205 and J-207, or visit our new
interactive website at www.sonneborn.

Tempo Canada ULC
Oakville Ontario
Tel: (905) 339-3309
Email: [email protected]
Website: www.tempo.ca
PhytoCellTec Symphytum
INCI: Symphytum officinale root cell extract
(and) isomalt (and) lecithin (and) sodium
benzoate (and) aqua/water
Use Levels: 0.4–1%
Applications: Skin care, body care, color
Comments: Rejuvenating formulas, agedefense
products for face, body & skin
care applications to vitalize the most valuable
skin cells; the stem cells.
Gransil SiW-066
INCI: Dimethicone & polysilicone-11 &
butylene glycol & water & decyl glucoside
Use Levels: 5-40%
Applications: Skin care, body care, color
Comments: Process friendly micro-dispersion
of silicone-in-water. Outer aqueous
design provides unique transition
from “splash of water” to silky after feel.
Suitable for water dominant formulations
that require the feel, aesthetics, and performance
of silicone elastomers.
Biopolymer HA-24
INCI: Polyquaternium 24 (and) hyaluronic
Use Levels: 2-4%
Applications: Skin care, sun care, color
Comments: Biopolymer HA-24 combines
the moisturization properties of
hyaluronic acid with the substantivity
of a lauryl-substituted quaternized hydroxyethylcellulose,
creating a substantive
hyaluronic acid that can be utilized
in a myriad of skin care applications.

TRI-K Industries, Inc.
Denville, NJ
Tel: (973) 298-8850
Email: [email protected]
Website: www.tri-k.com
TRIglyphix Sense
INCI: Hordeum vulgare seed extract
Use Levels: 2-5%
Applications: Sensitive skin products:
facial moisturizers, serums and creams;
cleansers; hand and body lotions;
Shaving Applications: shave creams,
after-shave applications, anti-aging
products; facial moisturizers, serums
and creams.
Comments: A natural active for sensitive
skin. Proven to help reduce redness
and irritation, while increasing collagen,
elastin and hyaluronic acid synthesis.
TRIspire Enhance
INCI: Galactoarabinan
Use Levels: 2-5%
Applications: Sun care products, facialmoisturizers and serums, skin care with
daily SPF protection, lipglosses and
lipsticks, color cosmetics, BB and CC
Comments: Natural, mild, non-irritating
and water dispersible polymer
that reduces transepidermal water
loss (TEWL), improves moisture control
in formulations and provides SPF
DermaPep A350
INCI: Butylene glycol, myristoyl
Use Levels: 2-4%
Applications: Emulsions, gels, creams and
serums for anti-aging and anti-wrinkle.
Comments: Effectively reverses agerelated
changes, such as wrinkles and
mottled hyperpigmentation. Can be an
excellent alternative to retinoids without
side effects.

Wacker Chemical Corporation
Adrian, MI
Tel: (888) 922-5374
Email: [email protected]
Website: www.wacker.com/personal-care
Belsil REG 1100
INCI: Dimethicone (and) vinyldimethyl/
Use Levels: 5-30%
Applications: For use in a wide range
of skin care, color cosmetic and sun care
products as well as antiperspirant/deodorant
and hair care products
Comments: Belsil REG 1100 is a silicone
elastomer gel that delivers exceptional,
long-lasting, unique sensory attributes
along with versatility in applications and
multi-functionality of spreadability, absorption,
texture, rheology and transfer
resistance benefits.•

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