A Range of New Ideas from ISP

International Specialty Products (ISP) introduced a wide range of ingredients for personal care formulations at the NYSCC Suppliers’ Day. For example, ColorTrue is a hydrophobically-modified cationic polymer that minimizes loss of hair color over multiple shampoo cycles. In fact, ISP maintains that the polymer provides up to a 50% improvement in permanent hair color retention.

According to ISP, the solubility of dye in water is the No. 1 cause of fading of permanent, oxidative dyed hair color, ahead of UV radiation and dye chemistry changes. When the ColorTrue technology is combined with ISP’s Styleze W it demonstrated protection of oxidative color from shampoo stripping and has shown superior performance vs. current products on the market.

ISP also launched several mild preservatives, including two aromatics with antimicrobial properties. Conarom P (INCI: Phenethyl alcohol (and) caprylyl glycol (and) trideceth-8) is effective against Gram-positive and Gram-negative bacteria, yeast and mold, and can render the use of other preservatives or perfumes unnecessary, according to ISP. It is recommended for use in leave-on and rinse-off applications at pH 4-8, though optimal activity is acheived at pH around 5. Conarom H-3 (INCI: PPG-2 methylether (and) piperonal (and) phenylpropanol) is also effective against Gram-positive and Gram-negative bacteria, yeast and mold. The material’s vanilla-like aroma means that it should only be added to perfumed formulation, and is recommended for use in leave-on and rinse-off applications.

Optiphen BSB-N (sold as Rokonsal BSB-N in Europe) combines benzoic acid and sorbic acid with benzyl alcohol. Optiphen BSP (sold as Rokonsal BSP in Europe) is a combination of nature-identical benzoic acid and sorbic acid in phenoxyethanol. Both are effective against gram-positive and gram-negative bacteria, yeasts and molds at acid pH values. In addition, Optiphen BSB-N ingredients are compliant with ECOCERT guidelines and also fulfill the German BDIH recommendations for natural cosmetic products. Optiphen BSP ingredients fulfill Conseil de l’Europe recommendations for natural cosmetic products.

Both Optiphen BSB-N and  Optiphen BSP are effective preservative systems for rinse-off products such as shampoos, shower gels, foam baths, and other products that have a slightly acidic pH. Because the organic acids need to be present in a formulation as undissociated molecules, the pH of a final product will need to be adjusted to values not higher than 5. In addition, both mild preservatives provide good skin compatibility, making them very suitable for high-quality care cosmetics such as creams, emulsions, lotions, and gels, provided they conform to the necessary pH conditions. Their good dispersibility allows them to be used in both oil-in-water and water-in-oil emulsions.

For skin care formulators, ISP’s Vincience division highlighted three new products. Heliostatine IS is a tan prolongation pea extract with clinically-proven efficacy for a healthy glow and radiance. By increasing melanin synthesis, Heliostatine IS is said to improve the skin’s natural physiological protection, thereby prolonging the natural healthy glow and radiance of skin. Furthermore, it enhances skin-feel by modulating cytokines.

Aquarize IS is a new moisturizing active ingredient for cosmetic products. This anti-aging skin moisturizing rice extract improves short- and long-term hydration of the skin. By stimulating the synthesis of filaggrin, a protein involved in the structural integrity of the stratum corneum, Aquarize IS helps reinforce the barrier function of the skin. Furthermore, it helps increase skin suppleness and firmness by promoting collagen synthesis.

Finally, Laminixyl IS is a laminin-5 peptide designed to enhance skin  integrity and function through the dermal-epidermal junction. This heptapeptide mimics the action of laminin-5, an essential molecule that is present in basement membranes of the skin.

More info: www.ispcorp.com