DSM Releases New Information on Alpha-Arbutin

The extensive safety dossier submitted by DSM Personal Care convinced the European Commission’s Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS) that alpha-arbutin is safe for cosmetic use. In its latest Opinion, the SCCS concluded that alpha-arbutin is safe at levels of up to 2% in face care products and up to 0.5% in body care products.

In recent years arbutin has been the subject of safety discussion in the EU. Following the opinion on beta-arbutin, published in 2008 by the SCCS (SCCP/1158/08), the EU Commission called for additional safety data on alpha-arbutin in 2010. In response to the call, DSM safety and regulatory experts submitted an exhaustive product dossier to prove the safety of alpha-arbutin. In particular, the evaluation of hydroquinone release, data on alpha-arbutin stabilization in formulated cosmetic products, and test results explaining the behavior of alpha-arbutin on the skin have been submitted for safety evaluation.

Dr. Mathias Gempeler, head global marketing skin care at DSM, comments: “Skin tone applications are one of the biggest growing segments in the skin care market, especially in the Asian markets. I’m extremely pleased with the positive SCCS Opinion as it allows the cosmetic industry to continue using this high-performing and easy-to-formulate active ingredient.”

DSM introduced alpha-arbutin to the cosmetic industry more than 10 years ago. The unique activity of alpha-arbutin in promoting the appearance of an even skin tone has been shown in several clinical studies. At a 1% concentration level, the molecule outperformed other commonly-used cosmetic ingredients such as kojic acid and beta-arbutin.