Estée Lauder Companies’ New Research on Oxidative Damage, Skin Barrier Function & Hyperpigmentation

The Estée Lauder Companies Inc. research and development team is presenting data that provides new insights in priority areas of research including epidermal function and skin barrier, fermentation, skin aging and pigmentation at the 2022 Society for Investigative Dermatology (SID) Annual Meeting. The meeting, under way now in Portland, OR, is a top dermatology conference that allows an expansive community of scientists and researchers to share the latest advancements in the skin care field.

The Estée Lauder brand will host a sponsored symposium titled, “Free Radicals and Oxidative Damage in Skin Cells,” where Nadine Pernodet, SVP global R&D, Skin Biology & Bioactives, The Estée Lauder Companies, and Barry Halliwell, D. Phil, D. Sc., senior advisor, academic appointments and research excellence, Office of the Senior Deputy President and Provost and Distinguished Professor, Department of Biochemistry, Yong Loo Lin School of Medicine National University of Singapore, will discuss their understanding of the contribution of oxidative damage to the mechanisms of aging.

ELC’s R&D team and brand research that will be presented at the 2022 SID meeting include the following posters:

• Free Radicals and Fast Action to Counteract Oxidative Damage in Skin Cells
A lavender extract was shown to promote less damaged skin cells by defending against free radical production and oxidative damage, especially from blue light.

• Comparison of Soluble Proteins From the Skin Sections of Acne and TCA Induced Postinflammatory Hyperpigmentation and Erythema
Differences in ethology of PIH and erythema in skin of color were evaluated, with findings revealing elevated biomarker levels of IL-1β and TGF-β, promoting macrophage infiltration and sustained inflammation, and excess Keap1, potentially contributing to altered proteostasis and ethology.

• Harvest Time of Hibiscus Flower Extract Affects Collagen Boosting Activity in Skin Cells Emphasizing the Importance of Plant/Flower Harvest Time to Build Potent Extracts
Extract potency from hibiscus flower varied with harvest time and increased collagen production in skin cells; combining the optimized extract with an exclusive moringa extract further increased collagen production.

• Macrocystis Pyrifera Kelp Ferment Affects Several Factors for Skin Barrier Function
Ex vivo studies demonstrated Macrocystis pyrifera kelp ferment increased skin neutral lipids, filaggrin and water retention enhancing overall barrier integrity and function.

• An Efficacious Cosmetic Formulation for Managing Barrier Damage Following Mild-Moderate Skin Disruption
In vivo studies showed a multi-ingredient topical serum containing Macrocystis pyrifera ferment reduced TEWL, built back stratum corneum quality and reduced immediate barrier disruption caused by cosmetic glycolic peel or laser procedures suggesting the serum may contribute to accelerated barrier recovery.

• Investigating the Effects of Two Peptides on the ECM of Skin Cells from Males with Collagen, Fibronectin and Hyaluronic Acid-Boosting Activities for Anti-Aging Benefits
In vitro studies using skin cells from male donors showed that the two tested peptides increased collagen, elastin, fibronectin and HA, aiding to keep ECM at optimal functionality to support mechanical male skin properties and combat sagging, lines and wrinkles.

• Postbiotics Power in Supporting Skin
Postbiotic metabolites, like pinitol and amino acids produced during the lactobacillus fermentation process were found to increase cell viability, energy and cell differentiation markers, involucrin and filaggrin, resulting in increased epidermal thickness and suggesting that treatment over time may reinforce skin.

“The Estée Lauder Companies’ R&D team is at the forefront of understanding the biological processes that inform our skin care innovations,” said Kurt Schilling, SVP basic science research and advanced technologies, The Estée Lauder Companies. “Through decades of research into key pathways affecting skin, alongside cutting-edge ingredients, we continue to bring new insights and technologies to bear on the processes underlying skin aging and overall skin health.”